Veer uh kull, Had an instructor in Oklahoma City say Eldorado as Ell Dure ayyy doe . Regional accents are fun stuff. Seriously, though, I almost bought one of these trucks recently and was wondering WHY it had so few miles....WHY the guy was selling it so cheap. In 2021 ANY used vehicle is selling for a lot of money BUT especially TRUCKS. I said: " I'm gonna look up usual problems with the 2004 F-150. " Man am I glad I looked. What pieces of crap these newer vehicles are. Give me a Chevy truck between 1968 and 1995 ANY day or even a Ford from the late 70's to the late 80's. The Dodge's are rot box junk.
Another common major issue with this body style is, the bottom of the frame rotting out on both sides. Rust really destroys these vehicles as do most. Also a Fuel Pump Control Module ends up corroding up and causes a no start or rough idle issue. Coolant leaks in the crossover tube inside the plastic intake manifold causing potential miss fire. Timing chain and cam phasers were also a big issue, probably just as big as the spark plug job. I hear a lot of shops won’t touch them without replacing the whole motor. And the final one, is losing OD Gear in the automatic transmission. Basically the transmission overdrive solenoid snap ring needs to be replaced.
Also a ton of electrical problems...and the air sensors, which there seems to be a lot! Stalling even when drivingis a huge issue on many of these trucks...very dangerous when driving up a hill and you suddenly have NO power!! YIKES>..NOT fun! A1 Auto, thanks for the other tips. Good thing I don't own this truck!!
Changing the spark plugs on my 05 f150 FTX 5.4 3v was a lengthy process but i did not break any spark plugs off in the engine. Did it myself because the mechanic said he was going to have to pull the motor out in order to get the broken spark plugs out and it would have been $100 an hour and he said it was 10 hours of work, just do it yourself and save the money. Good video, very informational.
Thank you for this video. I just purchased a 2005 Ford F150 with the 4.2 L V6 and an automatic transmission that has been replaced. The truck is in excellent condition aside from some rust out of the sheet metal at the bottom in areas, but I can fix that, it’s not as hard as some people think as long as it’s not extreme. Truck runs great, has what I can sit in understand to be the one of the best longest lasting engines that Ford made back then, and I’m happy!
Just changed my coils and plugs. I just cracked, broke loose the plugs and sprayed engine degreaser in to around top of hex then let it set overnight. Then I vacuumed the holes out sprayed carberator cleaner to soften the carbon up, to the top of hex let it set over night and just like that with some breaker bar help they all can out no problem. Did pickup a special plug extension 9/16 socket that had a flex joint where plug socket and extension meet. Very happy to say truck runs like new. 105,000 miles.
Thanks for the info. Have a 2005 f150 exactly like that one , but blue. Love it. Great to be educated on possible future problems. As of now it has 152,000 miles on it.
I have the exact same model in the picture I purchased it from a previous employer in 2016 for $500. Cosmetically and mechanically the truck is in very good condition, especially for the mileage. The reason I got it so cheap was the transmission needed a rebuild it had 229,000 miles on it at the time of purchase. Don't drive much so I'm at 240,055 now. When I worked there they would spend so much money on vehicle maintenance sometimes on vehicles that just weren't worth the repair costs. Other than getting the transmission rebuilt other than some routine maintenance I have only had to replace the starter.
You guys saved me between $1,500 and $3,300 several years back with your video on 2000 Ford 4x4 transmission by enabling me to determine it was the valve body wiring harness with a blown zener diode and a leaky gasket. I followed your instructions, replaced the gaskets, about $2.00 each, and the wire harness $51.00 and most expensive, fresh trans oil at about $220.00 for 18 pints I think? It's been a long time, but I remember it was under $300.00 total plus about 10 hours of my time working under with jack stands on gravel with a really bad back.
+James Delta Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
In my opinion the Cam Phasers Are The Biggest Problem With The 3 Valve 5.4 Litre Triton V8 Engine And Oil Pump,Costing $1000s To Repair Or Change The Engine And It's A Huge Problem And A Very Exspensive Repair,Great Video, New Subscriber From Niagara Falls Ontario Canada 🇨🇦
That’s truth man I have a2006 Ford F-150 I replace the exhaust manifold two times and the driver side I have a broken stud and I been buying parts from 1a auto and you guys awesome keep up the good video s thanks
Thanks for the video! I have a low-mileage 2005 Ford F150 pickup. Prices are so crazy now I could probably sell it used for more than i paid for it new! My engine light came on the other day. Took it to the shop. There was a "hole" in an air-tube--apparently a mouse or rat had chewed a hole in it! Unfortunately Ford no longer sold that part so the mechanic expoxxied over the hole! So far so good.
Our coil pack issue was the plastic-connector-clip; the tiny locking tabs snap-off making the coil-electrical supply unreliable. Since there is on coil for each cylinder, it is expensive to diagnose if you have intermittent connections. I would look first to loose coil connectors before changing coils or plugs.
For exhaust manifolds, after manifold is removed, weld a nut onto the broken stud. Use a torch to heat up stud at base on head. After its cherry red, useca socket on welded nut to remove stud. Replace all studs with 10.9 grade flange bolts. Tighten with 1/4" ratchet. Holes in head are about 1" deep. If one gets stripped out, tap hole to 3/8 x 16 thread without drilling. Also issues about brake light on cluster and intermittent dome light coming on. Both require cluster repair. Solder for brake light, plug for dome. Still love my 06 F150.
I had the one with the spark plugs not wanting to come out, it was a nightmare but it’s running great now. They were both in the third cylinders on the truck, so the 3rd and the 7th I believe.
Well I do have a ticking that been bothering me for a little while now I know what to look for my truck is the 2005 f150 stx 4.2 v6 I have about 160000 miles and still runs great it starts instantly. I think I also need a Power steering pump has been wining for a while changed the fluid and stops for a while then goes back to wining after about a week at least it’s not leaking. Thanks for the info on the ticking sound, much appreciated.
Great video & very informative. I have a 2005 F150 FX4 5.4L with 330,000 miles. It's hanging on but seems there is constantly several codes showing. I've spent enough money on repairs/replacement parts to probably buy a new engine. It has become a challenge to see how many miles I can get out of it. The body is in excellent shape & looks (almost) like new.
I have a 2006. It has 256,000 miles on it. It’s had a few repairs but other than that it’s still running pretty good. My mechanic told me he sees f150s every once in a while of similar years with 550,000 miles still running strong.
I have a 2006. It has 256,000 miles on it. It’s had a few repairs but other than that it’s still running pretty good. My mechanic told me he sees f150s every once in a while of similar years with 550,000 miles still running strong.
4.2's don't blow out the spark plugs. That's only the 2v mod 8's. The 4.2's get the coil pack that likes to crack and then the spark will arc between two coil towers, causing a misfire. In regards to the blow out on the 2v V8's, they only had that issue because the plugs were not properly torqued from the factory. It is not a thread issue. Also no mention of three common nuances that affect all 04-08 trucks regardless of powertrain... 1) high mount brake light leaking. This one can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins, and will slowly rot away the cab and interior. A common thing to do is replace it with a "cool looking" aftermarket equivalent, but those usually start leaking again after a year or so. Ford redesigned the gasket on the lamp which is much thicker, extending it's life. Much better to buy the redesigned Ford lamp. 2) Fuel pump control module. This module resides on the frame directly in front of the spare tire. It likes to corrode and short itself to the frame. This can cause extended cranks, no starts, no cranks, no communication, dead batteries, a slew of electrical nightmares. Ford redesigned the module so it comes with a spacer providing it with an air gap between the frame and its mounting point. 3) OD accumulator snap ring failure. The snap ring of the overdrive servo will break, causing the accumulator to drop out. Once this happens the overdrive band will release, and you will lose OD, or the truck wil flare in and out of OD. Buying a new snap ring, and replacing it along with the accumulator and check balls in the valve body will set you right again.
Thanks for the video, my father bought a 2006 f150 new (4.2l of course) and it just threw a rod at 360,000 mile, it only had four issues, one the blender went out just like you said it might, two it ate about 13 starters, one of which chewed up the flywheel (I blame this on the starters from advance auto) three the reverse gear went out at about 130,000 and fourth he let the truck sit for about three months and it most likely had a leaky injector after that making starting it pretty rough.
I've used the Lysle tool on my f150. I took it one at a time, over a day or two, & got out the 5 that had broken. It is not fun but anyone can do it. The kit is fraction of what the job would cost & you can probably get them used since who is going to want to do this twice? The replacement plugs, of course, do not break.
Forgot the fact that the 3v oil pumps are too weak and the oil channels going to the phasers were made too small so over time especially with poor oil changes you starve the phasers (particularly the passenger side) of oil causing your lovely little ticking time bomb.
I have a 2005 F-150 with 121,000 miles and it runs perfect!! Thinking about replacing the timing chain and water pump. Can I wait or do you recommend I do this soon?
I loved my 08 F150!! Bought with 20k miles and parted ways @ 200k miles. I've been through each of the problems you talked about. One part of the problem with the 3V motor was spark plugs, beyond the motor design, they used a 2 piece spark plug. The spark plug broke off where they mated the lower and upper half together. Champion sold a 1 piece plug which fixed this issue. Ford finally addressed this for 09 models. Also, the cam phasers were a problem along with the VCT solenoids. If you happen to brake a phaser and not mess up any valves, best thing to do is install phaser lock outs. No more phaser issues and delete the VCT solenoids. Someone mentioned also, the fuel pump module above the spare tire. When this fails, most of the time it will throw a "Passive anti-theft code" for some unknown reason. I know because I've dealt with each of these issue you have talked about during my 8 yrs owning mine. But all in all, very informative video!! Keep up the quality work!!
Great info. I have an 04 F150. Always been a ford guy. But there is nothing Ford tough about this gen. truck. I should have done more research before my purchase.
I have some type of misfire issue in my 2004 F-1shitty at least once every 10 months or so. Even had a spark plug launch itself out of the head. I know there’s a timing issue that I haven’t braved yet. The vacuum system for the hubs has issues and halfway engages 4H. Window won’t roll up because the plastic clips break. She keeps me busy.
Fuel pump control driver. The aluminum module mounted on steel under the bed, rots out and water shorts it out. Either no start or stalling randomly. Sometimes ether will start it, so you might assume fuel pump. Code is 191 fuel pressure sensor performance
Just had this issue. It didn’t even show the engine light, just stalling after heating up and idling rough, was not regulating fuel. Bought one off amazon and put it in and trucks like new again
Put some buster fluid down in the spark plugs heat the engine up and then let it cool off completely before trying to remove the plugs. Never try to remove plugs on hot engine
One more originally common problem. The Fuel pump driver module above the spare tire. Bad component location. Lot's replaced around the 5 year age range but still seeing some in the shop to this day. P1235/P1237.
From the Crown Vic to the F-series, if it uses a FPDM best to at least get a budget Chinese one to have on hand as a backup. Aftermarket's not too expensive and easy enough to at least plug it in, even on the side of the road. Can always mount it proper when your home.
Root probleem is oem driver is aluminum and mounted with carbon steel bolts to steel frame...dissimilar metals=corrosion. Fix is aftermarket driver that has insulators and stainless bolts+anti-seize. Dielectric grease on wiring connector, then seal connection with silicone.
2005 ford f 150 4.6 v8, long crank to start about 45 seconds, No codes, New fuelpump and module on the axle, fuel filter, plugs, coil packs when it does start fast you have to give it gas for it to come alive. Fuel pressure and fuel trim check out.
I don't really have any vehicle brand loyalty, but I bought a used 2005 F150 XL 4.2 Manual in 2011 w/ 40,000 mi on it. I bought it for work bc of the 2 suicide doors (extra room for tools /coveralls ,boots ) and an 8' bed which are almost extinct. It's now 8/2022 and it has 197,000 mi. I do my own maintenance and fix things immediately bc one problem will soon become two etc. Great truck, very reliable ,no automatic trans problems lol, . My list of fixes... brake rotors warped, front wheel bearings, clutch slave cylinder, front strut coils cracked- both sides (factory ones are shit) I cracked the exterior high brake light , bought new smoked plastic one and clear caulked the top and sides. Still has original clutch. I change oil reg. mix the recommended 5w20 3qt. and 10/30 3qt. (my recommendation) I use the forbidden FRAM filters or any brand. It runs fine on 10% ethanol blend. So... 2 things A1 did not mention, aside from the struts, the front caliper pistons are some kind of ceramic. I had a wheel bearing go bad, went bad 2 months later, took to an ASE garage, $200 and 2 months later bearing failed again. This time I looked at the caliper and the ceramic had cracked a triangle shaped piece which would intermittently "hang" the brake ,causing overheating, melting the w.b. grease, causing it to fail. Replaced with new steel piston calipers, problem solved. The number 2 thing is the instrument cluster, I guess the solder can fail causing a lot of "ghosts in the machine" weird effects, door chime, dome light, brake warning light, check engine light etc. ...watched a youtube vid and sorta fixed it but I didn't want to destroy it bc that was my first attempt to solder anything. Anyway.... Hope I might have helped someone out there,,,, cheers.
Thanks for you content man, got a 07 F150XL 4.2 only when I start it up sometimes a very rough start w / engine jump out fuel cleaner in helped but still from time to time does it ? Also how many coil packs do this truck have ? Any advice ?
Hi, you're the man !!! I have a 2006 Ford f150 that sometimes lightly shaking and cut off at stop lights, traffic lines and so on, please tell me what it could be, and how to fix it, thanks so much.
I'm guessing the camshaft position sensor is going bad.. probably need to replace that, and do a timing job while you're At it, and replace the phasers, water pump, And oil pump if you can spring for it.
My f150 gear shift sometimes has issues with the system registering what gear it’s in. Mainly noticeable when I go to start the truck sometimes it won’t start and I have to wiggle the shifter until it realizes it is in park. Is there some sort of sensor there? Or would the whole shifter unit need to be replaced.
So i put new camshaft sensors in both sides. Fuel filter,Plugs and half the coil packs was running good then started misfire so i took to the shop replaced 1 plug 1 coil pack again running good. Running down the road hit 50 lost speed and the ticking was loud rough idle. Plz help
I think I may have a blend door or something else,mine is all electric,temp and fan are different but it is on floor when you set it to vent,and vent when you set it to floor?? Love my truck but it gets crazy sometimes,5.4 Triton.
Not to tell you your giving wrong information but the park plug issue my friend is for the 2 valve triton with the threads in the block and blowing them out the 3 valve issue is seizing on for lack of maintenance and they break
Good evening sir, my question is that I heard the 2 valve is a better reliable engine regarding to the ,5.4 base on the year model you are quoting. Here how can we the consumer find out which 5.4 is a 2 valve base on Vin number not just f150 but also the van model e250 and e350 vans thank you Ruben
After this video and all the comment section makes me want to sell my 2008 f150 I wanted to restore it and make it look good, now I think it’s not worth the money 😩😏
On my uncle's 2005 F-150, sometimes when he puts the truck in "Drive" and releases brake pedal, truck doesn't move, as if something is holding it. He needs to accelerate a bit to make it move. We lifted the vehicle in the air and put it in Neutral, and all wheels seem to spin freely, didn't feel any drag. Any ideas?
Nice vidio. I love my truck, BUT. They built every thing around what you have 2 get to . I'm Being told it has 3 timing chains ? 2005 5.4 Triton V8. Now I'm checking the cam positioning sensor. The shop says you need a Motor! I said, you have a mortgage coming up? My 76 Nova got me 2 the refinery for 25 year's. Oil,points and plugs, OH! and a 6 pack.
I may have an opportunity to buy a 2004 F150 4x4 Super Cab with the rare (in 4x4) 4.6 2 valve with 138K on it. A lot of mechanics/techs tell me that these engines have a lot less problems and maybe a little bit better fuel mileage. Except for not as much horsepower and torque for towing what else should I be aware of? All the same other problems as the 5.4? I don't know if it has a towing package. I have a 1996 Lincoln Town Car with 214,000 miles. I finally had to put a set of plugs, wires and one coil on it at 209K. The older 4.6 engines in the Lincoln's don't seem to have near the problems as the ones from about 2002 and newer.
I'm actually having an issue with my 2006 lariat no crank no start. Everything turns on. Hear relays click when turning the key on. All lights on not a battery issue. Don't see any anti theft system lighting up so don't think it has one. Any ideas?
I have a 2007 ford F-150 with 400,000 mi on it tell me something about the 4/6 engine how many miles with his engine take me and what kind of problems I haven't had any major problems yet
I have a 04 with the triton. It runs great but the idle goes from smooth to rough to high then stalls. 3 different shops can't figure it out. So far had mass air flow sensor changed, spark plugs, throttle housing cleaned and o2 sensor changed.. any help please?
Got a 2007 xl 4.2 with 150k. Had many if the problems mentioned on the video and in the comments. Frame rail has rust, it wouldnt pass inspection in Pa. so I "sold" it to my girlfriend in Delaware. She has been told she cannot move to pennsylvania or i will have to break up with her.
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I need the link to the spark plug remover kit .
4 the Triton v8
I love this channel. New drinking game. Every time he says verhicle take a shot.
No, take a shot for every time he says “probably”!
veerkuls
Veer uh kull, Had an instructor in Oklahoma City say Eldorado as Ell Dure ayyy doe . Regional accents are fun stuff. Seriously, though, I almost bought one of these trucks recently and was wondering WHY it had so few miles....WHY the guy was selling it so cheap. In 2021 ANY used vehicle is selling for a lot of money BUT especially TRUCKS. I said: " I'm gonna look up usual problems with the 2004 F-150. " Man am I glad I looked. What pieces of crap these newer vehicles are. Give me a Chevy truck between 1968 and 1995 ANY day or even a Ford from the late 70's to the late 80's. The Dodge's are rot box junk.
Great game! I'm all f@!#ked up!
Fuckin a
I was so curious where the spark plug issue was gonna land. They are notorious for these spark plug issues.
vct system problems....chain guides and tensioners...fuel pump driver module that fails and gets mistakes for a bad pump...
Another common major issue with this body style is, the bottom of the frame rotting out on both sides. Rust really destroys these vehicles as do most. Also a Fuel Pump Control Module ends up corroding up and causes a no start or rough idle issue. Coolant leaks in the crossover tube inside the plastic intake manifold causing potential miss fire. Timing chain and cam phasers were also a big issue, probably just as big as the spark plug job. I hear a lot of shops won’t touch them without replacing the whole motor. And the final one, is losing OD Gear in the automatic transmission. Basically the transmission overdrive solenoid snap ring needs to be replaced.
Also a ton of electrical problems...and the air sensors, which there seems to be a lot! Stalling even when drivingis a huge issue on many of these trucks...very dangerous when driving up a hill and you suddenly have NO power!! YIKES>..NOT fun! A1 Auto, thanks for the other tips. Good thing I don't own this truck!!
Dont you mean vehercle
Aww I own a 2008 ford 😢 my a/c doesn’t work just the heater 😓
I got 2 f150 an 04 an 06 and they are rust free problem are nonexistent its like the wheels falls off like some trucks lol
Changing the spark plugs on my 05 f150 FTX 5.4 3v was a lengthy process but i did not break any spark plugs off in the engine. Did it myself because the mechanic said he was going to have to pull the motor out in order to get the broken spark plugs out and it would have been $100 an hour and he said it was 10 hours of work, just do it yourself and save the money.
Good video, very informational.
+Chief Keef Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
100 dollar an hour = expensive tools frm tool truck
Thank you for this video. I just purchased a 2005 Ford F150 with the 4.2 L V6 and an automatic transmission that has been replaced. The truck is in excellent condition aside from some rust out of the sheet metal at the bottom in areas, but I can fix that, it’s not as hard as some people think as long as it’s not extreme. Truck runs great, has what I can sit in understand to be the one of the best longest lasting engines that Ford made back then, and I’m happy!
Just changed my coils and plugs. I just cracked, broke loose the plugs and sprayed engine degreaser in to around top of hex then let it set overnight. Then I vacuumed the holes out sprayed carberator cleaner to soften the carbon up, to the top of hex let it set over night and just like that with some breaker bar help they all can out no problem. Did pickup a special plug extension 9/16 socket that had a flex joint where plug socket and extension meet. Very happy to say truck runs like new. 105,000 miles.
Thanks for the info.
Have a 2005 f150 exactly like that one , but blue. Love it.
Great to be educated on possible future problems. As of now it has 152,000 miles on it.
+Eric Hoff Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have the exact same model in the picture I purchased it from a previous employer in 2016 for $500. Cosmetically and mechanically the truck is in very good condition, especially for the mileage. The reason I got it so cheap was the transmission needed a rebuild it had 229,000 miles on it at the time of purchase. Don't drive much so I'm at 240,055 now. When I worked there they would spend so much money on vehicle maintenance sometimes on vehicles that just weren't worth the repair costs. Other than getting the transmission rebuilt other than some routine maintenance I have only had to replace the starter.
You guys saved me between $1,500 and $3,300 several years back with your video on 2000 Ford 4x4 transmission by enabling me to determine it was the valve body wiring harness with a blown zener diode and a leaky gasket. I followed your instructions, replaced the gaskets, about $2.00 each, and the wire harness $51.00 and most expensive, fresh trans oil at about $220.00 for 18 pints I think? It's been a long time, but I remember it was under $300.00 total plus about 10 hours of my time working under with jack stands on gravel with a really bad back.
+James Delta Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
In my opinion the Cam Phasers Are The Biggest Problem With The 3 Valve 5.4 Litre Triton V8 Engine And Oil Pump,Costing $1000s To Repair Or Change The Engine And It's A Huge Problem And A Very Exspensive Repair,Great Video, New Subscriber From Niagara Falls Ontario Canada 🇨🇦
Great video! I have never gotten a silent recall or TSB from Ford on this issue!
That’s truth man I have a2006 Ford F-150 I replace the exhaust manifold two times and the driver side I have a broken stud and I been buying parts from 1a auto and you guys awesome keep up the good video s thanks
Thanks for the video! I have a low-mileage 2005 Ford F150 pickup. Prices are so crazy now I could probably sell it used for more than i paid for it new! My engine light came on the other day. Took it to the shop. There was a "hole" in an air-tube--apparently a mouse or rat had chewed a hole in it! Unfortunately Ford no longer sold that part so the mechanic expoxxied over the hole! So far so good.
very well spoken and informative,thank you
Thanks. I plan to buy this after winter. Not a upgrade but a change from the Mustang
Our coil pack issue was the plastic-connector-clip; the tiny locking tabs snap-off making the coil-electrical supply unreliable. Since there is on coil for each cylinder, it is expensive to diagnose if you have intermittent connections. I would look first to loose coil connectors before changing coils or plugs.
For exhaust manifolds, after manifold is removed, weld a nut onto the broken stud. Use a torch to heat up stud at base on head. After its cherry red, useca socket on welded nut to remove stud. Replace all studs with 10.9 grade flange bolts. Tighten with 1/4" ratchet. Holes in head are about 1" deep. If one gets stripped out, tap hole to 3/8 x 16 thread without drilling.
Also issues about brake light on cluster and intermittent dome light coming on. Both require cluster repair. Solder for brake light, plug for dome.
Still love my 06 F150.
Basically don’t buy a ford!
I had the one with the spark plugs not wanting to come out, it was a nightmare but it’s running great now. They were both in the third cylinders on the truck, so the 3rd and the 7th I believe.
Great video taught me alot my heater wasn't working I didn't know what that thing was called you forgot now but I'll watch it again write it down
Well I do have a ticking that been bothering me for a little while now I know what to look for my truck is the 2005 f150 stx 4.2 v6 I have about 160000 miles and still runs great it starts instantly. I think I also need a Power steering pump has been wining for a while changed the fluid and stops for a while then goes back to wining after about a week at least it’s not leaking. Thanks for the info on the ticking sound, much appreciated.
You guys have a great video series. Just bought my 1st 5.4 3v and 4.6 triton trucks. You've been a big help thank you.
Great informative video, thank you very much.
Thanks guy!! Love your videos!! Very informative and explained very well!👍👍🙏🙏
Great video & very informative. I have a 2005 F150 FX4 5.4L with 330,000 miles. It's hanging on but seems there is constantly several codes showing. I've spent enough money on repairs/replacement parts to probably buy a new engine. It has become a challenge to see how many miles I can get out of it. The body is in excellent shape & looks (almost) like new.
Did u ever have the fuel pump sensor check engine?
I have a 2006. It has 256,000 miles on it. It’s had a few repairs but other than that it’s still running pretty good. My mechanic told me he sees f150s every once in a while of similar years with 550,000 miles still running strong.
I have a 2006. It has 256,000 miles on it. It’s had a few repairs but other than that it’s still running pretty good. My mechanic told me he sees f150s every once in a while of similar years with 550,000 miles still running strong.
4.2's don't blow out the spark plugs. That's only the 2v mod 8's. The 4.2's get the coil pack that likes to crack and then the spark will arc between two coil towers, causing a misfire. In regards to the blow out on the 2v V8's, they only had that issue because the plugs were not properly torqued from the factory. It is not a thread issue. Also no mention of three common nuances that affect all 04-08 trucks regardless of powertrain...
1) high mount brake light leaking. This one can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins, and will slowly rot away the cab and interior. A common thing to do is replace it with a "cool looking" aftermarket equivalent, but those usually start leaking again after a year or so. Ford redesigned the gasket on the lamp which is much thicker, extending it's life. Much better to buy the redesigned Ford lamp.
2) Fuel pump control module. This module resides on the frame directly in front of the spare tire. It likes to corrode and short itself to the frame. This can cause extended cranks, no starts, no cranks, no communication, dead batteries, a slew of electrical nightmares. Ford redesigned the module so it comes with a spacer providing it with an air gap between the frame and its mounting point.
3) OD accumulator snap ring failure. The snap ring of the overdrive servo will break, causing the accumulator to drop out. Once this happens the overdrive band will release, and you will lose OD, or the truck wil flare in and out of OD. Buying a new snap ring, and replacing it along with the accumulator and check balls in the valve body will set you right again.
Thanks for the video, my father bought a 2006 f150 new (4.2l of course) and it just threw a rod at 360,000 mile, it only had four issues, one the blender went out just like you said it might,
two it ate about 13 starters, one of which chewed up the flywheel (I blame this on the starters from advance auto)
three the reverse gear went out at about 130,000
and fourth he let the truck sit for about three months and it most likely had a leaky injector after that making starting it pretty rough.
+young engineer Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you Len
+Ross Bowman Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Every single topic I needed
Thank you for your help my friend 🙏
great information, Thanks again
+Chat Kat Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I've used the Lysle tool on my f150. I took it one at a time, over a day or two, & got out the 5 that had broken. It is not fun but anyone can do it. The kit is fraction of what the job would cost & you can probably get them used since who is going to want to do this twice? The replacement plugs, of course, do not break.
Forgot the fact that the 3v oil pumps are too weak and the oil channels going to the phasers were made too small so over time especially with poor oil changes you starve the phasers (particularly the passenger side) of oil causing your lovely little ticking time bomb.
Good job dude love your videos
Very informative thanks.
I have a 2005 F-150 with 121,000 miles and it runs perfect!! Thinking about replacing the timing chain and water pump. Can I wait or do you recommend I do this soon?
Cam phasers!! My #1 problem every couple of years.
I loved my 08 F150!! Bought with 20k miles and parted ways @ 200k miles. I've been through each of the problems you talked about. One part of the problem with the 3V motor was spark plugs, beyond the motor design, they used a 2 piece spark plug. The spark plug broke off where they mated the lower and upper half together. Champion sold a 1 piece plug which fixed this issue. Ford finally addressed this for 09 models. Also, the cam phasers were a problem along with the VCT solenoids. If you happen to brake a phaser and not mess up any valves, best thing to do is install phaser lock outs. No more phaser issues and delete the VCT solenoids. Someone mentioned also, the fuel pump module above the spare tire. When this fails, most of the time it will throw a "Passive anti-theft code" for some unknown reason.
I know because I've dealt with each of these issue you have talked about during my 8 yrs owning mine. But all in all, very informative video!! Keep up the quality work!!
you didnt have 2008 then i have 2008 and they have regular plugs in the 2008
How much did the phaser lockout and deleted vct solenoids run you at the mechanic?
Thanks for the video
Very good tips thank you
+Jose Estrella Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great vedios guys thanks a million do a crown vic police interceptor vedio
+Pancho Rancho We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1AAuto.com
Just bought a 07 f150 with the 4.6 and it’s got a ticking noise. Hoping it’s just the exhaust but I think its more than likely a lifter
Great video.
Thank you for convincing me to bring my truck into the shop to get the plugs changed lol
Great info. I have an 04 F150. Always been a ford guy. But there is nothing Ford tough about this gen. truck. I should have done more research before my purchase.
+Fred Kemp Thanks for the feedback!
Me too. Ive had mine only a few months and i cant even enjoy it cause iam always replacing something
Same on the 2004-2008 Lincoln Mark LT.
Well done.
It would be nice to see the repair/parts videos you guys did in replacing the bad parts in the comment section, instead on hunting them down
Water getting into the cab should be #1...😑 Good video.
I have some type of misfire issue in my 2004 F-1shitty at least once every 10 months or so. Even had a spark plug launch itself out of the head. I know there’s a timing issue that I haven’t braved yet. The vacuum system for the hubs has issues and halfway engages 4H. Window won’t roll up because the plastic clips break. She keeps me busy.
Cam phasers, chain guides, and vacuum hub lock-out actuator.
Nothing freakier than the grinding noise that comes from the lock-out actuator
Really only somewhat common, less then 30%, in the 5.4 3v.
Vacuum hub, i see all the time though.
awesome video thankyou
+Barry Samson Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
My truck is an 07 ford I love it. No problems at all
I have a 2006 F150 Triton, and I was always scared to change the spark plugs because they're notorious for breaking.
Fuel pump control driver. The aluminum module mounted on steel under the bed, rots out and water shorts it out. Either no start or stalling randomly. Sometimes ether will start it, so you might assume fuel pump. Code is 191 fuel pressure sensor performance
Just had this issue. It didn’t even show the engine light, just stalling after heating up and idling rough, was not regulating fuel. Bought one off amazon and put it in and trucks like new again
Wow my 2008 has had 0 problems and it’s got 209415 Km on it. Only issue so far is minimal rust
Is there a way to fix the rust ?
Put some buster fluid down in the spark plugs heat the engine up and then let it cool off completely before trying to remove the plugs. Never try to remove plugs on hot engine
One more originally common problem. The Fuel pump driver module above the spare tire. Bad component location. Lot's replaced around the 5 year age range but still seeing some in the shop to this day. P1235/P1237.
+Michael Heselgrave
+Michael Heselgrave Thanks for the feedback!
From the Crown Vic to the F-series, if it uses a FPDM best to at least get a budget Chinese one to have on hand as a backup. Aftermarket's not too expensive and easy enough to at least plug it in, even on the side of the road. Can always mount it proper when your home.
How do you fix it
Root probleem is oem driver is aluminum and mounted with carbon steel bolts to steel frame...dissimilar metals=corrosion. Fix is aftermarket driver that has insulators and stainless bolts+anti-seize. Dielectric grease on wiring connector, then seal connection with silicone.
Thank you much help
and for 4x4, the uncovered solenoid/actuator issue.
2005 ford f 150 4.6 v8, long crank to start about 45 seconds, No codes, New fuelpump and module on the axle, fuel filter, plugs, coil packs when it does start fast you have to give it gas for it to come alive. Fuel pressure and fuel trim check out.
I don't really have any vehicle brand loyalty, but I bought a used 2005 F150 XL 4.2 Manual in 2011 w/ 40,000 mi on it. I bought it for work bc of the 2 suicide doors (extra room for tools /coveralls ,boots ) and an 8' bed which are almost extinct. It's now 8/2022 and it has 197,000 mi. I do my own maintenance and fix things immediately bc one problem will soon become two etc. Great truck, very reliable ,no automatic trans problems lol, . My list of fixes... brake rotors warped, front wheel bearings, clutch slave cylinder, front strut coils cracked- both sides (factory ones are shit) I cracked the exterior high brake light , bought new smoked plastic one and clear caulked the top and sides. Still has original clutch. I change oil reg. mix the recommended 5w20 3qt. and 10/30 3qt. (my recommendation) I use the forbidden FRAM filters or any brand. It runs fine on 10% ethanol blend. So... 2 things A1 did not mention, aside from the struts, the front caliper pistons are some kind of ceramic. I had a wheel bearing go bad, went bad 2 months later, took to an ASE garage, $200 and 2 months later bearing failed again. This time I looked at the caliper and the ceramic had cracked a triangle shaped piece which would intermittently "hang" the brake ,causing overheating, melting the w.b. grease, causing it to fail. Replaced with new steel piston calipers, problem solved. The number 2 thing is the instrument cluster, I guess the solder can fail causing a lot of "ghosts in the machine" weird effects, door chime, dome light, brake warning light, check engine light etc. ...watched a youtube vid and sorta fixed it but I didn't want to destroy it bc that was my first attempt to solder anything. Anyway.... Hope I might have helped someone out there,,,, cheers.
Thanks for you content man, got a 07 F150XL 4.2 only when I start it up sometimes a very rough start w / engine jump out fuel cleaner in helped but still from time to time does it ? Also how many coil packs do this truck have ? Any advice ?
Hi, you're the man !!!
I have a 2006 Ford f150 that sometimes lightly shaking and cut off at stop lights, traffic lines and so on, please tell me what it could be, and how to fix it, thanks so much.
I'm guessing the camshaft position sensor is going bad.. probably need to replace that, and do a timing job while you're At it, and replace the phasers, water pump, And oil pump if you can spring for it.
@@marknecker1996 Thanks , I'm dealing with that problem now
Is it possible to explain the steps for switching an automatic gearbox to a manual gearbox for a 2004 Ford F150 model
Mine is 2012 f 150 I love it
Love one a Auto videos
My f150 gear shift sometimes has issues with the system registering what gear it’s in. Mainly noticeable when I go to start the truck sometimes it won’t start and I have to wiggle the shifter until it realizes it is in park.
Is there some sort of sensor there? Or would the whole shifter unit need to be replaced.
Can’t forget the cam phasers going bad and I get all 8 of my plugs out of my 5.4 with no issues and just using a normal spark plug socket.
So i put new camshaft sensors in both sides. Fuel filter,Plugs and half the coil packs was running good then started misfire so i took to the shop replaced 1 plug 1 coil pack again running good. Running down the road hit 50 lost speed and the ticking was loud rough idle. Plz help
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Did he say veerichle? Or am I just too stoned right now? Anyways, great video. Using this as a guide for a score i found on one. Very helpful.
+Cook2430 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
yes he says veericle in all his videos, I almost believe it's a joke at this point
Good information!
+Randy Owens Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Great vid
+Jamal Whitehead Thanks for the feedback!
I think I may have a blend door or something else,mine is all electric,temp and fan are different but it is on floor when you set it to vent,and vent when you set it to floor?? Love my truck but it gets crazy sometimes,5.4 Triton.
If you have 2008 with the brown coil packs your good to go spark plug issues was fixed by ford
+None of your business Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Makes me want to buy a Ford truck. Wait a minute I just did. Please pray for me tonight 🙏 😞
Not to tell you your giving wrong information but the park plug issue my friend is for the 2 valve triton with the threads in the block and blowing them out the 3 valve issue is seizing on for lack of maintenance and they break
Only problem I have ever had was coil pack got over a hundred k but then again I take care of my vehicle,s
Wouldn't your first check be a compression test? Just wondering.
Good evening sir, my question is that I heard the 2 valve is a better reliable engine regarding to the ,5.4 base on the year model you are quoting. Here how can we the consumer find out which 5.4 is a 2 valve base on Vin number not just f150 but also the van model e250 and e350 vans thank you Ruben
After this video and all the comment section makes me want to sell my 2008 f150 I wanted to restore it and make it look good, now I think it’s not worth the money 😩😏
based on this will avoid the 8 cylinder engines. Are the 6 cylinders in the 2004 -2008 reliable? What problems do the 6 cylinders have? thanks
I have a 2006 f150 Lariat, what are the best and smoothest luxury ride shocks I can purchase to replace on this truck?
On my uncle's 2005 F-150, sometimes when he puts the truck in "Drive" and releases brake pedal, truck doesn't move, as if something is holding it. He needs to accelerate a bit to make it move. We lifted the vehicle in the air and put it in Neutral, and all wheels seem to spin freely, didn't feel any drag. Any ideas?
the throttle cable is probably a tiny bit loose
My airbag lights appears and dash gages and windows stop working, what do I do
Nice vidio. I love my truck, BUT. They built every thing around what you have 2 get to . I'm Being told it has 3 timing chains ? 2005 5.4 Triton V8.
Now I'm checking the cam positioning sensor. The shop says you need a Motor! I said, you have a mortgage coming up? My 76 Nova got me 2 the refinery for 25 year's. Oil,points and plugs, OH! and a 6 pack.
I may have an opportunity to buy a 2004 F150 4x4 Super Cab with the rare (in 4x4) 4.6 2 valve with 138K on it. A lot of mechanics/techs tell me that these engines have a lot less problems and maybe a little bit better fuel mileage. Except for not as much horsepower and torque for towing what else should I be aware of? All the same other problems as the 5.4? I don't know if it has a towing package. I have a 1996 Lincoln Town Car with 214,000 miles. I finally had to put a set of plugs, wires and one coil on it at 209K. The older 4.6 engines in the Lincoln's don't seem to have near the problems as the ones from about 2002 and newer.
Did you end up buying it if yes how did it go?
I'm actually having an issue with my 2006 lariat no crank no start. Everything turns on. Hear relays click when turning the key on. All lights on not a battery issue. Don't see any anti theft system lighting up so don't think it has one. Any ideas?
I have a 2007 ford F-150 with 400,000 mi on it tell me something about the 4/6 engine how many miles with his engine take me and what kind of problems I haven't had any major problems yet
so just get new coil packs for my check engine and constant problem none easy start ups and my engind only using 4 cylinders ?
How many miles do the spark plugs last on a F-150? My F-150 is a 2005 with only 83,000 miles!
So what about Running Lights? I have headlights but now running lights not working.. Have put new switch in but no go
My 2005 f150 4x4 is stuck in 4x4 low.
Can you give some tips as to why?
exhaust manifold seals against cylinder head not engine block
Is it limited slip differentials ? I have 2004 expedition 5.4 and I have no idea if it's lsd.
just got a ford ad watching this lol
I'm getting a 2007 f150 with the triton. Only has 24k miles. What would be good first preventative maintenance on it?
Did you buy it? What was the first thing you did for preventative maintenance? I'm looking to buy an 04 5.4l with 48k miles
Great video! I have 2008 f150 5.4l where can I find the weather strip door seals to go around the door. I'm getting so much wind noose thanks 😊
+Medee Wert Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have a 2004 f150. 4 door and when its idling its idling chunky like its missing what should i do i changed the coil packs already ?
I have a 04 with the triton. It runs great but the idle goes from smooth to rough to high then stalls. 3 different shops can't figure it out. So far had mass air flow sensor changed, spark plugs, throttle housing cleaned and o2 sensor changed.. any help please?
Try checking the fuel pump module above the spare tire. See if it's intact. They seem to fail on every one of these models/years. It's a quick swap.
Got a 2007 xl 4.2 with 150k. Had many if the problems mentioned on the video and in the comments.
Frame rail has rust, it wouldnt pass inspection in Pa. so I "sold" it to my girlfriend in Delaware. She has been told she cannot move to pennsylvania or i will have to break up with her.
Can you please tell me we're the temperature coolant temperature sensor is on a f150 5,4L 3v triton 2006