They say knowledge is money. You deserve the money for sharing your knowledge. I was looking for exactly this. Moving a drain on slab. I could picture doing it, but there is nothing like watching someone do it and explaining everything as you go. Your saving alot of people alot of money by giving them the confidence they can do this themselves. Great Video!
Finally someone with a good video on a slab. I have a old early 1970's home with a very small fiberglass stall shower that is old and cracked with a cast iron drain. I am going back with a tile shower. So if you ever see a slab floor with cast iron drain do a video of that.
Getting a tub to tiled shower done and no one told us any of this and the plumber did the piping for the shower system but did not do this work as he said the tile guys would set the drain where they needed it. WHOA NELLIE, That is not what the tile people wanted to hear so we are having to go back in ourselves ($500 already paid out to plumber) and do this, so your video has really cleared things up a lot for us!!!!! Key point from this is most people are not familiar with this project do not realize that bathtub tubs are 1 1/2" piping and Shower drains are 2" pipes.. It made very difficult to figure out what we needed and where to get it, as there didn't seem to be 1 1/2 shower drains to match up to what you actually have!!! Thanks for the video!!! :)
Common practice in slabs is to use a 2“ to 1.5” reducer which are easily found/ bought at HD/Lowes or plumbing supply or even Amzn. Shower drains are 2” and tub waste lines 1.5“ so reducer needs to be used in slab situations. If not slab like on raised foundation or second floor where the waste line is accessible , according to most codes you are supposed rerun the waste line to a 2” pipe for the shower. In any of this work, your shower drain material needs to match the waste line type - which will be black abs or white pvc pipe and fittings, using the related glue type for the pipe type.
Hey Bob...sorry to hear there are haters on you out there....those people don't have any appreciation for all the free advice you offer. Like you said, many get rich off YT ads but not you. This is exactly why I supported you on Patreon. If I called a tile/shower guy on the phone, he would charge 75-100 just to come out and look at my issue. Then...the real charges would start. I appreciate you man and I have used many of your techniques and recommendations on my jobs with awesome results. Thank goodness for your generosity. By the way, I am a retired firefighter so we are brothers! Keep up the great work.
I'm doing a stand up shower in a basement of my home right now. Thanks for showing me how that setup is supposed to work with a tile shower. I am having major issues from what the previous owner had done. But thanks to people like you posting videos im getting it done one problem at a time. Thank you!
Thanks for the upload. I am confident to tackle this myself. I am very grateful for people like yourself to document and upload. Good work practice, good videography.
Turn them ads on! You should be getting some of that monies too. Only takes a min and most of us are use to watching them in RUclips vids now anyway. Helpful vids. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you so Much! I'm tearing out a leaker now - along with the flooring and walls that are covered in mold. This video advice is saving me from a lot of future grief!
I am in this exact situation right now, except I took the tub out myself and still have an open hole in slab with the drain pipe under grade. (no jack hammer needed). Thanks a lot!
I can't agree more with your view on sharing your knowledge. That's what you pay a skilled craftsmanship for, his KNOWLEDGE, that will lead to a beautiful end result. No on should give you any flack about promoting yourself
Hey Bob, I’m a plumber and I watch your videos to get a better idea of how to plan my plumbing as it comes to tile. Also I just like the trades :) I wanted to let you know that the way you altered the drain is illegal in any state, may have been illegal before you got there too but nonetheless. It also didn’t appear that there was any p trap at all, obviously this is not good. It would have been more work, but not too much more, to bust out some more floor and do it properly. Not hating, just telling you as I would want to know. Thanks for the vid, peace
Great advice, I always wanted to know about moving a drain. I have a job in the future of retroing a shower where the tub is being removed and the drain is too close to the wall for a decent and symmetrical pitch. Thank you so much for making this video ! I have some ideas now and appreciate your work.
Well this was incredibly helpful. My shower drain was built for a fibreglass unit, and it's slanted... so for my tile shower plans, I need to smash the floor & fix it. Your vid made it look easy.
I think the way you dealt with that was spot on sir. The Dremels and inside pipe cutters are life savers. Lot of back and forth to and from the job to not get to put in your time with tile.
This was a great video i don't think you have any reason not to ask people to donate. Got me feeling excited about working tub. This isn't even my issue but excited none the less. I'm about to binge on your videos lol
in my 40 yrs. as a licensed plumber i'v never seen it done it this way. i'm hoping you verified that there was indeed a p-trap under that dirt. good luck friend.
If there was not a P-trap under the dirt they would have had a lot more problems with their tub before I took it out.. I believe I was 17 in from where I started with in code for extending the drain
why is he continuing to use 1.5" pipe and such? i eliminated all that and replaced with 2" P-trap and all 2" to the existing 2" pipe, no marbles were possessed by those who ran 1.5" off existing 2" under the slab
I just busted thru concrete for the first time… it was life-changing being able to see the dirt 😂 Interesting find though, but thankfully the p-trap is 2”!! 🙏🏽 (converting to shower) It’s just what the heck am I going to do to get it all connected now 😂
Umm, at 17:00 and again 19:11 you show a 2x 1 1/2 inch bushing BUT if you use a flush bushing you will be able to use a 1 1/2 inch 90 degree street elbow into the flange and make this whole setup as low in profile as possible. Also, in hindsight, at the beginning of the video you commented as to why the curb was so high. Welp, look at the initial height of the drain and then you'll "get it"! By the way, these comments are for those watching these videos years later. I know these are old videos.
I’m currently in the same predicament. But unfortunately I had to use two quick 90’s in order to make the transition from bathtub to shower drain. Placed a 1 1/2 quick 90 onto the pipe right before the trap and used and adapter from 1 1/2 to 2”. But now you got me thinking as to why is it not good to use quick 90’s. However this was the only way to get it done in the tight space I was working in
Great video and explanation. If asked I apologize in advance. But does the entire run to the "main" line including the p-trap not meed to be 2 inch? I'm looking to install a precast/plastic shower surround and didn't know I could reduce from new 2 inch shower drain to existing 1.5 inch tub drain line.
@@btomas225 does it matter if the p-trap is at the shower pan drain or right before the main line, p-trap into the main line with the1.5" run from the drain.
In theory yes, but not always possible, and it would be irrelevant because an inch and a half drain would drain the same way as a 2-inch drain in a shower with less GPM, the only reason we step up to two inch drain on a shower is in case there's a backup, whereas a tub you have 18 to 20 in of room to play with before a backup would occur
Good job explaining the process, but do you really need dura rock board on top of the slab? I'm trying to build a smooth transition tile floor with a slight maybe 1/4 inch slope without a glass partition, also on a slab n/c build?
@@mitchlyons3642 no you don't need Durock board on a concrete slab but I believe in this case it was just a spacer or perhaps an equalizer to get the floor as flat as possible, I don't recall as a video was done years ago
I’m guessing whoever did this was planning to fill up the whole shower bed with mortar or concrete. I’ve seen it done like that on smaller showers but this one would require a lot of mortar
cool. I have a six inch diameter pre-fab hole through the concrete slab in a condominium. Do I just find a drain insert that is large enough to fill and support that hole?
If you would actually watch the whole video the explanation is there, on a slab P traps are always below grade level, in other words anywhere from 8 to 12 in in the dirt below the concrete
Thanks for the informative video. Question: can you use the Kurdi membrane in the same fashion as the rubber liner? Im going from 0" (floor hight) to 1.5" to the drain & the rubber membrane is a PITA! I'm thinking Kurdi would form better
Don't even address your haters that's what they want they want to get in your head just keep doing what you're doing don't ruin your video by dwelling on those fools thanks for the video great job
Is there a reason why you have added a layer of what looks to be waterproof fiber glass ciment board when you did add a pvc liner on top? Was it because your drain was 1/2’’ too high and you needed to fille the space?
This is why tile guys should not make plumbing videos. Your just asking for it. Pressure 45. Not drainage...you already broke the concrete why not find the 1 1/2 trap and make it right. The main topic of vid is 1 1/2-2in transition. 2" trap is plumbing code for a shower in every code in the USA. If your watching this and are attempting or having this done please insure the 1 1/2 trap is found and replaced with a 2inch trap.
Anybody watching will *NOT* be digging 3feet to 5feet looking for a trap where it T's into the main so they can be sure they are "code". You know and I know that a shower uses way less water than a tub dumps 4 gpm or more as opposed to the shower that exists now @ 1.5 or 2 maybe without a restrictor, so drainage will def not be an issue...but book soldiers will always freak out regardless...and many trades cross over and started doing plumbing in 1987 and tile only since 1999 plus I've seen plumbers set liners wrong, set backerboard wrong, even attempt tiling a shower and did crappy work. I'm responsible for the entirety of my work, my customers never need to track down 3 different ppl if anything goes wrong and over 20 years later nothing ever has 👌🏻💯
@@StarrTile 3 feet? Really? Obviously you have never taken the time to find one of those traps. You think the plumber is going to set a trap 3 feet deep so he can dig it out when its time to set the tub. There is a 2 inch elbow down there that comes up to an appropriate depth a 2x1 1/2x 1 1/2 Sanitary Tee with the vent off the top and the trap off the branch. I know for a fact a 1 1/2 trap can handle the volume. The problems are; 1.) that you create a bottle neck in the pipe where every little bit of hair and debris will hang up on, 2.) you have added extra non drainage offsets that make it super hard to snake when that undersized line clogs. 3.) Its just laziness and bad info your spreading as if you know what your talking about. I have to snake tile guys plumbing jobs often and it makes my life harder and the home owners bill larger because of the extra time it takes to get past that stupid bottle neck and through the non drainage fittings. Next time take a little time dig down an extra six inches and do it right or don't post it or expect to be confronted on the hack job.
@@StarrTile Not to mention the guy glued the pipe with primer only it looks like from the way the fittings popped apart but you trust that first 45 above the trap?
@Ryan Dugger said, "2" trap is plumbing code for a shower in every code in the USA." Not so. While the UPC does require 2", the IPC (& thus the IRC) allows 1-1/2" if the total shower head/bodyspray water flow is less than 5.7gpm. See IPC Table 709.1. Of course different localities may amend this. Also, later in the video, you'll see that a proper DWV 45 was used.
Helpful. Thank you. The river stone may have just been chosen because it in style. The curb may have been high to accommodate the error of the flange height. I just saw a video of a guy squirting foam along the edge before pouring self leveling concrete. God damnit if I already poured mine up against the framing ( over tar paper and lathe screen ). If I pray to Jesus, will the floor not buckle due to expansion?
I have similar situation here. I have an old tub and concrete slab. I do have a large opening where the old 1 1/2 drain and p-trap sits. Now I have to convert this to 2 inch opening over the old P-trap .This is a great video showing the transition from tub to shower. So I'm confused, or I'm missing something here. Where is the P-trap for this shower? I thought I was going to see a 1 1/2 P-trap to 2 inch conversion
I’m curious . Shouldn’t there be pre slope under the liner ? I’ve removed a couple of these liners that were flat and there was a tremendous amount of mold growing from farthest corners from the drain .
A pre slope does not perform as intended, but more to the point we are waterproofing the entire shower before tiles ever set so no water can get into the pan
i've only done this 1 time and did end up with a puddle ;( as much as i tried to get the correct slope pouring the cement it was not easy. rented a 14" concrete saw opened up the shop floor 4'x6'. set in forms, did the pour and had to leave clearance for 1/2" thick 6"x12" tiles & thinset. installed sand trap floor drain inside & bottom of a 2'x4' 18" deep catch basin with custom fabbed up metal floor grate. know how hard it is to lay tile in straight lines when the 14' x 24' shop floor has a 2 1/2 degree slope? not easy
I have a concrete slab foundation and the shower drain seems to smell. I wonder how I can confirm if there is a P trap down there? For your case, how do you confirm there is a P trap?
Every bathtub has a P-trap below grade, sometimes that can be 12 in or 18 inches or so, if it was always a shower and it has a smell then more than likely the last person did not put in a P-trap, the only sure way to tell is to run a telescopic camera down the drain
@@StarrTilethank you. The prior owner of the house did some heavy remodeling himself, and I suspected that it was a toilet drain before. And toilet drains do not have P traps. I guess I have to run a telescope to know. Is there any other device you could recommend that would insert into the drain to block the smell but allows water to flow when we turn on the shower?
Perhaps you will respond to this question: Most areas (code) mandate a 2 inch drain. The question is "how far" must that "2 inch line" need to run? Is it legal to transition to 1.5 before trap, after trap?
The whole reason there is an inch and a half for a tub is you have a higher threshold with the edge of the tub being so high compared to a shower curb, since a shower curb is much lower the width of the drain is much wider. Legal would be the wrong term, up to code would be more like it but codes are broken all the time and things still work. Specifically on this video the P-trap is below grade and is inch and a half, then the transition is made is low as possible and things would still work.... yes in the ideal world it would be a 2-inch drain all the way to the main but that is impossible in most cases, so we still do tub to shower conversions with what we have to work with
@@StarrTile Nice and thanks for the reply. I am doing a similar situation but all is accesible as below me is storage and the trap is 1.5 but converts to 2 inch line within 5 feet. I'll proceed with just doing the drain at 2 inch to 1.5 trap and back to 2 inch line within 5. If any trouble I will simply switch the 1.5 (5 feet) to 2 inch. I expect all will be fine. Good day.
great vid but, why is he continuing to use 1.5" pipe and such? i eliminated all that and replaced with 2" P-trap and all 2" to the existing 2" pipe, no marbles were possessed by those who ran 1.5" off existing 2" under the slab
why don't you have a p trap in the down section for reduction of waste line gas? I normally put one in so there is no gas and if anything like an earring etc. ,can be retrieved possibly.
If you listen to the video I explain that P traps on bathtubs are set below grade, usually about 10 to 14 inches down, so yes there already is one, you would not put a secondary one in
How thick is the concrete pour above the pan liner? Is it normal concrete? Is it 2 inch? Is there a minimum? How long to cure? Also, the weep holes in the drain flange...When a tub is draining slow/backed up, does it cause water to enter the weep holes?
As I mentioned in the video the P-trap is buried under the slab as it normally would be, in this case is probably a foot or so down and to the rear, you don't add a secondary P-trap in that would be dangerous
@@StarrTilethanks for reply. I have a house with PT slab. Plan to convert tub to shower with minimal plumbing move planned. I’ll schedule a scan to find where the cables run before any slab work.
Update. In Arizona many house slabs constructed with post tension cables. So got a radar scan done by a concrete service ($600 minimum fee) and they line out path and depth of cables on the slab. Then around the cable, you cut and chisel the slab leaving the cable un touched nor damaged but cleaned of concrete. Then you can route the new shower waste plumbing and refilll with concrete. This is not normally a diy job.
Any advice on how to do a shower pan liner for a curbless shower on a concrete slab. I have a shower with a huge curb that sits a few inches below the rest of the floor. It's framed all around and tiled to act as a tub. I'm going to convert to a curbless shower since it sits a few inches below the slab. There's no curb to wrap and attach a liner too. I'm guessing just lots of Redgard and fiberglass mesh?
Is it okay to install the shower drain lower than the surface of the concrete on a slab? I want to have a lower shower curb and therefor need the drain to be lower. I wasn’t sure if this would go against standard plumbing codes
Do u see how your pebble tile touches¿ how are you gonna get grout and silicone in between the stones to make it water tight that’s a junk pebble tile fyi
GREAT INFO... I HAVE A SAME KINDA PROJECT..MY TUB DRAIN PIPING RAN ON TOP OFF THE SLAB, NOW WITH THE SHOWER I NEED TO GO UNDER THE SLAB TO BE FLUSH WITH MY NEW ADJUSTABLE SHOWER DRAIN. ALSO I HAVE TO CONVERT FROM 1 1/2" to 2" DRAIN PIPING LUCKY THERE IS AN OPENING (I CAN GET TO) BEHIND MY SHOWER DRAIN AREA WHERE ALL THE PIPES DRAIN OFF... THANK YOU GREAT JOB !!!
I cannot speak to that because it's inclusive in my shower build, but if a plumber had to do what I did you're probably lookin at anywhere between 500 and 1000
Can you put wood over the cement once you have access to the pipe? Don’t seal up the hole with cement. Just in case you need to do any repairs at a later date?
StarrTile we’re on a cement slab. My husband prays we never have an issue with a pipe because they are imbedded in the cement. I was just thinking, once you open up the cement, like you did in this video, why couldn’t a wood subfloor be put over the area. Leaving the pipe available if any work needs to be done. I hope that makes sense.
@@Auntypatti yes what you said made sense, however on a slab floor with a shower pan proper put in its place the wood could expand and contract and ruin your pan from underneath it could crack
No the whole purpose of transitioning to a 2-inch drain is to allow more water volume in a quicker amount of time as opposed to a bathtub which has longer to drain.... that is not part and parcel to a shower back up because that would mean you have a clog. And of course a tub puts out more gpm than a shower head ever could.
@@StarrTile Thanks for the response. That is what I meant. A tub has the capacity to hold water, hence the 1 1/2 drain. A shower base cannot hold that amount of water so needs a 2'' into a 3''. I am in the process of converting a tub to a shower on a slab. I am thinking I need to remove the 1 1/2'' pipe and replace it with a 2''. I am not sure how far I need to go to do that.
The correct answer according to most plumbers... You dig down all the way to the Y transition of the main drain, no way am I doing that and I have no compunction about the excess 1 1/2" running 10" to 12" to that point
*IF THIS WAS HELPFUL PLEASE CONTRIBUTE TO ME PATREON OR PAYPAL..THANK YOU !*
www.patreon.com/starrtile for Patreon or StarrTile@yahoo.com for PayPal
hi. dont you need a p trap?
@@sina1329 the trap is below the surface of the dirt.
They say knowledge is money. You deserve the money for sharing your knowledge. I was looking for exactly this. Moving a drain on slab. I could picture doing it, but there is nothing like watching someone do it and explaining everything as you go. Your saving alot of people alot of money by giving them the confidence they can do this themselves. Great Video!
Finally a video about THE DRAIN in a concrete basement floor
SCHLUTER HAS THEM
Subscribed. Looked at countless conversion videos and this one nails the reality and practicality
Finally someone with a good video on a slab. I have a old early 1970's home with a very small fiberglass stall shower that is old and cracked with a cast iron drain. I am going back with a tile shower. So if you ever see a slab floor with cast iron drain do a video of that.
Getting a tub to tiled shower done and no one told us any of this and the plumber did the piping for the shower system but did not do this work as he said the tile guys would set the drain where they needed it. WHOA NELLIE, That is not what the tile people wanted to hear so we are having to go back in ourselves ($500 already paid out to plumber) and do this, so your video has really cleared things up a lot for us!!!!! Key point from this is most people are not familiar with this project do not realize that bathtub tubs are 1 1/2" piping and Shower drains are 2" pipes.. It made very difficult to figure out what we needed and where to get it, as there didn't seem to be 1 1/2 shower drains to match up to what you actually have!!! Thanks for the video!!! :)
Common practice in slabs is to use a 2“ to 1.5” reducer which are easily found/ bought at HD/Lowes or plumbing supply or even Amzn. Shower drains are 2” and tub waste lines 1.5“ so reducer needs to be used in slab situations. If not slab like on raised foundation or second floor where the waste line is accessible , according to most codes you are supposed rerun the waste line to a 2” pipe for the shower. In any of this work, your shower drain material needs to match the waste line type - which will be black abs or white pvc pipe and fittings, using the related glue type for the pipe type.
Definitely alot of work reworking drain on tub to shower conversion, I dread those jobs.
Great instructional video.
Hey Bob...sorry to hear there are haters on you out there....those people don't have any appreciation for all the free advice you offer. Like you said, many get rich off YT ads but not you. This is exactly why I supported you on Patreon. If I called a tile/shower guy on the phone, he would charge 75-100 just to come out and look at my issue. Then...the real charges would start. I appreciate you man and I have used many of your techniques and recommendations on my jobs with awesome results. Thank goodness for your generosity. By the way, I am a retired firefighter so we are brothers! Keep up the great work.
I'm doing a stand up shower in a basement of my home right now. Thanks for showing me how that setup is supposed to work with a tile shower. I am having major issues from what the previous owner had done. But thanks to people like you posting videos im getting it done one problem at a time. Thank you!
Thanks for the upload. I am confident to tackle this myself. I am very grateful for people like yourself to document and upload. Good work practice, good videography.
Turn them ads on! You should be getting some of that monies too. Only takes a min and most of us are use to watching them in RUclips vids now anyway. Helpful vids. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you so Much! I'm tearing out a leaker now - along with the flooring and walls that are covered in mold. This video advice is saving me from a lot of future grief!
He finally did at 15:53
I'm joining your patreon you have helped me on several occasions. Worth a few bucks a month! Thank you Bob!
And thank *YOU* sir
The guy is doin a great job...extra effort, will look nice .
I am in this exact situation right now, except I took the tub out myself and still have an open hole in slab with the drain pipe under grade. (no jack hammer needed). Thanks a lot!
I can't agree more with your view on sharing your knowledge. That's what you pay a skilled craftsmanship for, his KNOWLEDGE, that will lead to a beautiful end result. No on should give you any flack about promoting yourself
Hey Bob, I’m a plumber and I watch your videos to get a better idea of how to plan my plumbing as it comes to tile. Also I just like the trades :)
I wanted to let you know that the way you altered the drain is illegal in any state, may have been illegal before you got there too but nonetheless. It also didn’t appear that there was any p trap at all, obviously this is not good. It would have been more work, but not too much more, to bust out some more floor and do it properly. Not hating, just telling you as I would want to know. Thanks for the vid, peace
Great advice, I always wanted to know about moving a drain. I have a job in the future of retroing a shower where the tub is being removed and the drain is too close to the wall for a decent and symmetrical pitch. Thank you so much for making this video ! I have some ideas now and appreciate your work.
Well this was incredibly helpful. My shower drain was built for a fibreglass unit, and it's slanted... so for my tile shower plans, I need to smash the floor & fix it. Your vid made it look easy.
I think the way you dealt with that was spot on sir. The Dremels and inside pipe cutters are life savers. Lot of back and forth to and from the job to not get to put in your time with tile.
THank you for you time and effort, and this advice is worth way more than 12 a year!! or 60.00 for that matter :) Haters gonna hate. you rock!!!
This was a great video i don't think you have any reason not to ask people to donate. Got me feeling excited about working tub. This isn't even my issue but excited none the less. I'm about to binge on your videos lol
Sad they didnt have you just go ahead and finish the tile work , great video and glad you take pride in your work
I thought it was a good video you answered the questions that I was looking for I think it was a good video
The music alone is fantastic! Gramatik?!
Getting ready for a build for myself. Looking to do a very large curbless 16:35 shower very helpful
in my 40 yrs. as a licensed plumber i'v never seen it done it this way. i'm hoping you verified that there was indeed a p-trap under that dirt. good luck friend.
If there was not a P-trap under the dirt they would have had a lot more problems with their tub before I took it out.. I believe I was 17 in from where I started with in code for extending the drain
still you are learning from him
why is he continuing to use 1.5" pipe and such?
i eliminated all that and replaced with 2" P-trap and all 2" to the existing 2" pipe,
no marbles were possessed by those who ran 1.5" off existing 2" under the slab
Those crying about your patreon stuff need to just close their eyes and stop learning from you. It's that simple.
Very good video...I will put it to practice...I have two drains to install in a new home build..Thanks
I just busted thru concrete for the first time… it was life-changing being able to see the dirt 😂
Interesting find though, but thankfully the p-trap is 2”!! 🙏🏽 (converting to shower)
It’s just what the heck am I going to do to get it all connected now 😂
Getting ready to do this in my house. Thanks for the awesome video
Umm, at 17:00 and again 19:11 you show a 2x 1 1/2 inch bushing BUT if you use a flush bushing you will be able to use a 1 1/2 inch 90 degree street elbow into the flange and make this whole setup as low in profile as possible.
Also, in hindsight, at the beginning of the video you commented as to why the curb was so high. Welp, look at the initial height of the drain and then you'll "get it"!
By the way, these comments are for those watching these videos years later. I know these are old videos.
I’m currently in the same predicament. But unfortunately I had to use two quick 90’s in order to make the transition from bathtub to shower drain. Placed a 1 1/2 quick 90 onto the pipe right before the trap and used and adapter from 1 1/2 to 2”. But now you got me thinking as to why is it not good to use quick 90’s. However this was the only way to get it done in the tight space I was working in
Thank you for your time sir.
Great video and explanation. If asked I apologize in advance. But does the entire run to the "main" line including the p-trap not meed to be 2 inch? I'm looking to install a precast/plastic shower surround and didn't know I could reduce from new 2 inch shower drain to existing 1.5 inch tub drain line.
NO! Mine is 1 1/2 inch...Read my comment above.
@@btomas225 does it matter if the p-trap is at the shower pan drain or right before the main line, p-trap into the main line with the1.5" run from the drain.
I'm building a shower from scratch on a concrete floor, I'll have to replace shower drain with the kind you used and everything else, wish me luck
Hope it went good. Im doing the same thing. Dirt and under slab work is done. Im just about ready for the pan and tile work to start. 👍🤠
Absolutely right... this is like a master class in doing it right tks
If your drain is 2” shouldnt your ptrap and dirty arm be in 2” all the way to the san tee also?
In theory yes, but not always possible, and it would be irrelevant because an inch and a half drain would drain the same way as a 2-inch drain in a shower with less GPM, the only reason we step up to two inch drain on a shower is in case there's a backup, whereas a tub you have 18 to 20 in of room to play with before a backup would occur
The music after 13 minutes I definitely recognize. The theme from the movie Exodus. Wow.
Brilliant video big man. I have a job very similar to do but the tub waste pipe is above ground level.
wish i knew this last year. thanks for posting
Excellent video and great intro song!
Thanks dude. I appreciate it
Good job explaining the process, but do you really need dura rock board on top of the slab? I'm trying to build a smooth transition tile floor with a slight maybe 1/4 inch slope without a glass partition, also on a slab n/c build?
@@mitchlyons3642 no you don't need Durock board on a concrete slab but I believe in this case it was just a spacer or perhaps an equalizer to get the floor as flat as possible, I don't recall as a video was done years ago
@@StarrTile Thank you, I'm still researching, DIY novice , but learning.
another good tip for someone having to get thru the slab is take a sponge with some water and squeeze it over the area to minimize the dust.
Great video first slab video that includes the p trap thanks
Great video Sir, exactly the explanation I’m looking for. Thanks again.
still extremely good informative vid
I’m guessing whoever did this was planning to fill up the whole shower bed with mortar or concrete. I’ve seen it done like that on smaller showers but this one would require a lot of mortar
Usually those floor drains are done in 2.5 inch abs around me , and the square drain is a nicer look and a lot easier to tile around
In America? 2" in Pennsylvania
Yes my mistake , lol 2 inch abs and a 4 inch square drain cover . And that’s in New Jersey
cool. I have a six inch diameter pre-fab hole through the concrete slab in a condominium. Do I just find a drain insert that is large enough to fill and support that hole?
ruclips.net/video/vw8bkGmHKrE/видео.html
Did you use wonderboard under the liner
where is your p-trap? you have to have one in order to prevent sewer gases from escapeing.
If you would actually watch the whole video the explanation is there, on a slab P traps are always below grade level, in other words anywhere from 8 to 12 in in the dirt below the concrete
Thanks for the informative video.
Question: can you use the Kurdi membrane in the same fashion as the rubber liner? Im going from 0" (floor hight) to 1.5" to the drain & the rubber membrane is a PITA!
I'm thinking Kurdi would form better
Yes you can use Kerdi, check my last video I posted Friday... there is a time and a place for everything
I have done this to similar shower installs by using a channel type drain and sloping the tile to the drain.
Don't even address your haters that's what they want they want to get in your head just keep doing what you're doing don't ruin your video by dwelling on those fools thanks for the video great job
Is there a reason why you have added a layer of what looks to be waterproof fiber glass ciment board when you did add a pvc liner on top? Was it because your drain was 1/2’’ too high and you needed to fille the space?
Yes to last part..drain was too high
This is why tile guys should not make plumbing videos. Your just asking for it. Pressure 45. Not drainage...you already broke the concrete why not find the 1 1/2 trap and make it right. The main topic of vid is 1 1/2-2in transition. 2" trap is plumbing code for a shower in every code in the USA. If your watching this and are attempting or having this done please insure the 1 1/2 trap is found and replaced with a 2inch trap.
Anybody watching will *NOT* be digging 3feet to 5feet looking for a trap where it T's into the main so they can be sure they are "code". You know and I know that a shower uses way less water than a tub dumps 4 gpm or more as opposed to the shower that exists now @ 1.5 or 2 maybe without a restrictor, so drainage will def not be an issue...but book soldiers will always freak out regardless...and many trades cross over and started doing plumbing in 1987 and tile only since 1999 plus I've seen plumbers set liners wrong, set backerboard wrong, even attempt tiling a shower and did crappy work. I'm responsible for the entirety of my work, my customers never need to track down 3 different ppl if anything goes wrong and over 20 years later nothing ever has 👌🏻💯
@@StarrTile 3 feet? Really? Obviously you have never taken the time to find one of those traps. You think the plumber is going to set a trap 3 feet deep so he can dig it out when its time to set the tub. There is a 2 inch elbow down there that comes up to an appropriate depth a 2x1 1/2x 1 1/2 Sanitary Tee with the vent off the top and the trap off the branch. I know for a fact a 1 1/2 trap can handle the volume. The problems are; 1.) that you create a bottle neck in the pipe where every little bit of hair and debris will hang up on, 2.) you have added extra non drainage offsets that make it super hard to snake when that undersized line clogs. 3.) Its just laziness and bad info your spreading as if you know what your talking about. I have to snake tile guys plumbing jobs often and it makes my life harder and the home owners bill larger because of the extra time it takes to get past that stupid bottle neck and through the non drainage fittings. Next time take a little time dig down an extra six inches and do it right or don't post it or expect to be confronted on the hack job.
@@StarrTile Not to mention the guy glued the pipe with primer only it looks like from the way the fittings popped apart but you trust that first 45 above the trap?
Thank you
@Ryan Dugger said, "2" trap is plumbing code for a shower in every code in the USA."
Not so. While the UPC does require 2", the IPC (& thus the IRC) allows 1-1/2" if the total shower head/bodyspray water flow is less than 5.7gpm. See IPC Table 709.1. Of course different localities may amend this.
Also, later in the video, you'll see that a proper DWV 45 was used.
Helpful. Thank you. The river stone may have just been chosen because it in style. The curb may have been high to accommodate the error of the flange height.
I just saw a video of a guy squirting foam along the edge before pouring self leveling concrete. God damnit if I already poured mine up against the framing ( over tar paper and lathe screen ). If I pray to Jesus, will the floor not buckle due to expansion?
Thank you for your videos could you do me a favour how make the plumbing for a waxing machine in the basement please thank you so much
Martha
great work
Nice job ,should cover the pipe to prevent concrete get in
With the slab being flat under the pan liner with no slope .How will the water on the liner get to the drain?
Because the surface is waterproofed...so nothing gets in pan to begin with
I have similar situation here. I have an old tub and concrete slab. I do have a large opening where the old 1 1/2 drain and p-trap sits. Now I have to convert this to 2 inch opening over the old P-trap .This is a great video showing the transition from tub to shower. So I'm confused, or I'm missing something here. Where is the P-trap for this shower? I thought I was going to see a 1 1/2 P-trap to 2 inch conversion
You did see the transition from inch and a half to 2-inch as I explained in the video the P-trap is below grade probably 10 to 12in down into the dirt
Great information keep the videos coming
I’m curious . Shouldn’t there be pre slope under the liner ? I’ve removed a couple of these liners that were flat and there was a tremendous amount of mold growing from farthest corners from the drain .
A pre slope does not perform as intended, but more to the point we are waterproofing the entire shower before tiles ever set so no water can get into the pan
Looks good. That concrete was pretty easy to bust up that looked like a real weak mix.
Those are are working mans hands.
i've only done this 1 time and did end up with a puddle ;( as much as i tried to get the correct slope pouring the cement it was not easy. rented a 14" concrete saw opened up the shop floor 4'x6'. set in forms, did the pour and had to leave clearance for 1/2" thick 6"x12" tiles & thinset. installed sand trap floor drain inside & bottom of a 2'x4' 18" deep catch basin with custom fabbed up metal floor grate. know how hard it is to lay tile in straight lines when the 14' x 24' shop floor has a 2 1/2 degree slope? not easy
What is the point of laying the cement board on the concrete? Just to get a nice even surface? Is this required?
Pick up the discrepancy
I have a concrete slab foundation and the shower drain seems to smell. I wonder how I can confirm if there is a P trap down there? For your case, how do you confirm there is a P trap?
Every bathtub has a P-trap below grade, sometimes that can be 12 in or 18 inches or so, if it was always a shower and it has a smell then more than likely the last person did not put in a P-trap, the only sure way to tell is to run a telescopic camera down the drain
@@StarrTilethank you. The prior owner of the house did some heavy remodeling himself, and I suspected that it was a toilet drain before. And toilet drains do not have P traps. I guess I have to run a telescope to know. Is there any other device you could recommend that would insert into the drain to block the smell but allows water to flow when we turn on the shower?
Absolutely excellent video. Many tks.
Perhaps you will respond to this question: Most areas (code) mandate a 2 inch drain. The question is "how far" must that "2 inch line" need to run? Is it legal to transition to 1.5 before trap, after trap?
The whole reason there is an inch and a half for a tub is you have a higher threshold with the edge of the tub being so high compared to a shower curb, since a shower curb is much lower the width of the drain is much wider. Legal would be the wrong term, up to code would be more like it but codes are broken all the time and things still work.
Specifically on this video the P-trap is below grade and is inch and a half, then the transition is made is low as possible and things would still work.... yes in the ideal world it would be a 2-inch drain all the way to the main but that is impossible in most cases, so we still do tub to shower conversions with what we have to work with
@@StarrTile Nice and thanks for the reply. I am doing a similar situation but all is accesible as below me is storage and the trap is 1.5 but converts to 2 inch line within 5 feet. I'll proceed with just doing the drain at 2 inch to 1.5 trap and back to 2 inch line within 5. If any trouble I will simply switch the 1.5 (5 feet) to 2 inch. I expect all will be fine. Good day.
great vid but,
why is he continuing to use 1.5" pipe and such?
i eliminated all that and replaced with 2" P-trap and all 2" to the existing 2" pipe,
no marbles were possessed by those who ran 1.5" off existing 2" under the slab
Nice video. Maybe I missed it, but where is the trap located on that drain?
Usually about 8 to 12 inches under the slab in the dirt
@@StarrTile, got it, thanks.
Why not do a pre slope dry bed before the pan liner?
Cuz they don't function as intended and because it doesn't matter when you waterproof the surface of the pan .....which everybody does now
What if concrete slab has post tension cables...how would you relocate drain?
I would not mess with any concrete floor that had tension wires in it, I would sub a plumber to do that, too much liability
why don't you have a p trap in the down section for reduction of waste line gas? I normally put one in so there is no gas and if anything like an earring etc. ,can be retrieved possibly.
If you listen to the video I explain that P traps on bathtubs are set below grade, usually about 10 to 14 inches down, so yes there already is one, you would not put a secondary one in
how did you get out the stainlesss steel bolt??? there not magnetic
Yes they are, a telescopic magnet I used
How thick is the concrete pour above the pan liner? Is it normal concrete? Is it 2 inch? Is there a minimum? How long to cure?
Also, the weep holes in the drain flange...When a tub is draining slow/backed up, does it cause water to enter the weep holes?
What did it cost to do this
Great job Bob as always man. Learned alot from your videos keep it up buddy.
Is there an actual p-trap? I didn't see it on the old one and didn't see you adding one as well.
As I mentioned in the video the P-trap is buried under the slab as it normally would be, in this case is probably a foot or so down and to the rear, you don't add a secondary P-trap in that would be dangerous
Glad o found this comment! Was about to add a trap!
That chipping hammer looks brand new.
It was last spring '18 when I did this video
Where is the p-trapped?
It was explained in the video, they are always below grade usually about 8 to 10 in
What if the walls are cinder blocks, do I still need a liner? How do I attach it to the walls?
In that case use a liquid topical membrane like redgard, aqua defense, hydro ban or some other paintable protection...2-3 coats
Was that dropped bolt stainless steel?
Yes and I'm able to retrieve it with a telescoping magnet
What if you have a post tension slab, do you need to worry about cables near drains - meaning do they run near plumbing waste drain?
Most definitely, I would never mess around in a condo where there are tension wires and the concrete, just not going to happen
@@StarrTilethanks for reply. I have a house with PT slab. Plan to convert tub to shower with minimal plumbing move planned. I’ll schedule a scan to find where the cables run before any slab work.
Update. In Arizona many house slabs constructed with post tension cables. So got a radar scan done by a concrete service ($600 minimum fee) and they line out path and depth of cables on the slab. Then around the cable, you cut and chisel the slab leaving the cable un touched nor damaged but cleaned of concrete. Then you can route the new shower waste plumbing and refilll with concrete. This is not normally a diy job.
Any advice on how to do a shower pan liner for a curbless shower on a concrete slab. I have a shower with a huge curb that sits a few inches below the rest of the floor. It's framed all around and tiled to act as a tub. I'm going to convert to a curbless shower since it sits a few inches below the slab. There's no curb to wrap and attach a liner too. I'm guessing just lots of Redgard and fiberglass mesh?
Is it okay to install the shower drain lower than the surface of the concrete on a slab? I want to have a lower shower curb and therefor need the drain to be lower. I wasn’t sure if this would go against standard plumbing codes
Do u see how your pebble tile touches¿ how are you gonna get grout and silicone in between the stones to make it water tight that’s a junk pebble tile fyi
I think I have a P trap in the concrete do you have x ray vision ??????
you would have to have a pee trap or you would be getting all kinds of sewage fumes.
GREAT INFO... I HAVE A SAME KINDA PROJECT..MY TUB DRAIN PIPING RAN ON TOP OFF THE SLAB, NOW WITH THE SHOWER I NEED TO GO UNDER THE SLAB TO BE FLUSH WITH MY NEW ADJUSTABLE SHOWER DRAIN. ALSO I HAVE TO CONVERT FROM 1 1/2" to 2" DRAIN PIPING LUCKY THERE IS AN OPENING (I CAN GET TO) BEHIND MY SHOWER DRAIN AREA WHERE ALL THE PIPES DRAIN OFF... THANK YOU GREAT JOB !!!
What would be an approximate cost to move a drain like that.
I cannot speak to that because it's inclusive in my shower build, but if a plumber had to do what I did you're probably lookin at anywhere between 500 and 1000
@@StarrTile Thanks have a similar situation getting ready to start soon.
Great tutorial video !!
Thanks
Thanks !
Can you put wood over the cement once you have access to the pipe? Don’t seal up the hole with cement. Just in case you need to do any repairs at a later date?
If you are building a shower then the void needs to be back filled with cement , I'm not sure I understood your question
StarrTile we’re on a cement slab. My husband prays we never have an issue with a pipe because they are imbedded in the cement. I was just thinking, once you open up the cement, like you did in this video, why couldn’t a wood subfloor be put over the area. Leaving the pipe available if any work needs to be done. I hope that makes sense.
@@Auntypatti yes what you said made sense, however on a slab floor with a shower pan proper put in its place the wood could expand and contract and ruin your pan from underneath it could crack
Um, is not the whole purpose of a 2" to prevent water from backing up. Transitioning from a 1 1/2 to a 2" does not solve that problem?
No the whole purpose of transitioning to a 2-inch drain is to allow more water volume in a quicker amount of time as opposed to a bathtub which has longer to drain.... that is not part and parcel to a shower back up because that would mean you have a clog.
And of course a tub puts out more gpm than a shower head ever could.
@@StarrTile Thanks for the response. That is what I meant. A tub has the capacity to hold water, hence the 1 1/2 drain. A shower base cannot hold that amount of water so needs a 2'' into a 3''.
I am in the process of converting a tub to a shower on a slab. I am thinking I need to remove the 1 1/2'' pipe and replace it with a 2''. I am not sure how far I need to go to do that.
The correct answer according to most plumbers... You dig down all the way to the Y transition of the main drain, no way am I doing that and I have no compunction about the excess 1 1/2" running 10" to 12" to that point
@@StarrTile Thanks again. Yeah. I'll just convert it to accept the 2'' drain.
why you don't use regular end drain cup and instal tile straigt to concrete floor
Why trap water?
Mud pan and liner to create a proper substrate for the tile, with proper drainage and to ensure that the water never gets to the wood framing.
No black paper no pan?
Love your stuff!
How do you screw the board on the bottom without screwing into pan liner and the bottom is not held in by the mud bed?