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Prevent Carbon Buildup with Modern Engine Oil? True or False?
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- Опубликовано: 13 авг 2024
- Let's talk engine carbon buildup due to direct injection. A story by Valvoline states this is a real problem and without a modern engine oil, you will have issues. Publisher Tim Esterdahl goes over this article and shares his thoughts on the conclusions.
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Tim, the issue with oil, and its affect on modern GDI engines is volatility. Blow by can vaporize some oil, and the PCV system routes the vapors to the intake so it is burned instead of venting into the atmosphere like automakers did with pre 1970 engines. What changed a few years ago is the oil makers formulating new lubricants to meet spec ILSAC GF-6. Those full synthetic oils are specifically engineered and formulated to work with GDI engines including turbo charged engines. They have much lower volatility so there is less oil vapor routed to the engine and coating the intake valves where it burns on to the back of the valve forming carbon. Note the other issue is low tension piston rings. A lot of automakers have gone to 0w - 16 or 20 oils and they are using lower tension rings which reduces friction and saves a little fuel. Those lower tension rings do not wipe oil as well as higher tension rings and lead to increased blow by, and more carbon buildup. Engines that are designed for 5w - 30 have higher tension oil rings and less carbon buildup. The best practice is to change oil frequently before the additive pack wears out or breaks down so the oil in you rig is always fresh with low volatility. Oil is cheap. Engines are expensive. Of course you cal always add an oil catch can to turn those oil vapors to liquid oil and store them so they don't go through your engine. Catch cans reduce carbon buildup by trapping the oil vapors. Anyway, I always enjoy your vids. Best, Bill
Very well said.
Thanks for the explanation. I think we said about the same thing with modern oil using additives to prevent carbon buildup. Regular maintenance and installing a catch can can help as well.
@@Pickuptrucktalk I must have missed it as I don't recall anything about oil volatility.
@@williamgunn1076 it was in this video I referenced within this one: ruclips.net/video/jSheFdCs-lc/видео.html
I read somewhere that if you use a catch can on your engine in states that adopted California emissions, you will fail the emissions test. Am I being misled here?
$28 a quart! Wow! A good oil catch can will do wonders to help too. Most of the carbon buildup comes from recirculating crankcase gases. Ever since breathers became illegal, those gases will get redirected back across the intake valve. A catch can will allow most of the mist oil to condense and stay in the can rather than go across the intake valves.
Engineers hate talking about catch cans in my experience.
@@Pickuptrucktalk I wonder if that's because they can't put them on modern engines? I'm not 100% sure they can't put them on, but I suspect that's the case. Catch cans were the best option to reduce carbon buildup on the 1st gen Ecoboost engines.
I'm not entirely sure either. It seems more like adding a catch can make it look like there is a flaw in the engine design. OR they see it as an unnecessarily item with the aforementioned new oils. OR it is just another part the consumer would have to service and would be susceptible to failing. I've never met an engineer who didn't want their engine to last forever and be the most reliable engine ever. Adding more parts leads to more complexity and more chances for failure.
@@Pickuptrucktalk Well, servicing it is a thing for sure. You have to dump them out periodically. They all usually have a little breather with a filter on top too, so that's why I think they may not be legal for manufacturers. They aren't a true closed loop and miniscule amounts of vapor might escape and destroy the atmosphere you know.
@@duggydo the horror of a little bit of gases seeping out!!
450,000 miles on my 03 grand marquis...10,000-15,000 mile oil changes since new, super tech full synthetic mostly since new...never an issue, engine still looks like new down under the oil fill cap....I think some engines are just better than others...less prone to carbon, sludge, and varnish build up...
It’s port injected. And one good engine design.
Either Pure Luck (at those Ludicrous oil change intervals) OR you are Lying :-)
@barenekid9695 it does burn 1 qt of oil every 2,300 miles, so technically it's getting some fresh oil every 2,300 miles...so by 10,000 miles it has had 4 quarts added....
@@barenekid9695 Not ludicrous at all. I wouldn't do it to every engine but many engines are capable of doing it without issue. I had an 1994 camaro lt1 engine with over 300k miles that did 10k oil changes easily i could have went longer. Modern GDI engines are harder on the oil a modern camaro with gdi gets close to depleting the oil around 8k miles but thats with a 10qt sump compared to the old LT1's 5
My vr6 with 7500mi changes is at 135k.
The aluminum surfaces were a little darker than expected when I was in there for timing chains.
Im due for a change soon,but im waiting on a spin on oil filter adapter to ditch that stupid cartridge,and do the whole mess at once.
It's weird how good routine maintenance fixes a lot of problems lol.
Frequent oil changes won't reduce carbon deposits. It will reduce/eliminate engine sludge build up but not carbon deposits.
@@hsuccopit won’t help with carbon buildup on the valves but it’ll help the carbon buildup along the piston rings
Ways to help reduce deposits:
1. Use top tier gas
2. Use a combustion cleaner occasionally like BG 44k, Redline S-1
3. Use full Syn oil no more than 5,000 miles between changes
4. Try going up a grade in oil to help viscosity
5. Oil catch can
6. Walnut blasting if really bad or manual cleaning
7. Piston soak with Berryman's B-12 if stuck rings are suspected.
Top tier gas is a illusion since gasoline has a lot of chemicals in it pus ethanol that keeps MPG down.
manufacturers need to drop the low tension rings just to save 0000.1 miles per gallon.
The first thing they need to drop is the ridiculous 10,000 mi services and go back to 3000-5000 and all of this nonsense goes away
@@100pyatt I service my (2) ford Focus vehicles when the monitor tells me to, usually around 10k miles. 196K miles still as clean as a brand new one. Quality of oil really matters here, as does the quality of a filter. I run mobile one extended drain interval filters, and Valvoline 0W20 Advanced formula.
@@100pyatt 15,000 km (~10K miles) can be checked using oil analysis.
If the wear is normal then the service interval is reasonable.
If you want a bit more protection then bond a lubricant to the inside of your engine to ensure that lubrication is present 100% of the time.
🙂
P.S. My old car had 10,000 km oil change intervals. Wear was reduced by ~80% after treatment.
P.P.S. The new car has 15,000 km oil change intervals. Waiting for the first oil change to run an analysis and check i.e. Do a before and after measurement.
Agreed with this and to do aggressive oil changes. Not all engines will have the carbon buildup problem, but the (my) Scion XB engine certainly does. I got it at 200K mile and it was very well cared for, but they might not have done the 3-5 K oil changes. I have religiously used Synthetic every 3-4K miles since buying it and the oil burn progressed to 1 quart every 600 miles or so at 260,000 miles. Then I did the Berryman B12 overnight piston soak recently, and through 3500 miles since then (1st oil change), it has burned about 1/2 quart. I'm pretty floored that it would come back to life. Engine is still running great.
Why so many 0s before the Decimal point for 1 tenth of a mpg
I believe Valvoline Modern Engine oil has been discontinued for quite some time now. I remembered buying it when it first came out. Did probably 2 oil changes with the oil and then it disappeared from the shelves.
Walmart quit selling it, but NAPA still sells it.
Agreed- Its been replaced by Restore and Protect. This is old news. Those finding the other stuff, are finding NOS, left behind. That product doesn't appear on their web site anymore
According to the valvoline, lab engineers, it was meant only for Cummins engine and it was very potent, it worked too good, it was causing oil pump screen to get clogged from all the carbon cleaning.
The new engine restore that just came out is a lot more tame and controlled and it’s definitely design for today’s turbo GDI .
There’s a great interview that oil geek channel did with valvoline lab
I have an '03 Toyota 4Runner with 4.7L V8 and 157K miles. I have had it since 70K miles and used Valvoline full synthetic and semi-synthetic high mileage oil almost exclusively. Just last weekend had the valve covers off and the cams and head are virtually spotless, light yellow discolorization at most and being a port injected engine I'm not worried about valve deposits. I'd say Valvoline does what it claims.
Synthetic oil is critical in all modern engines
Modern engine oil from valvline was discontinued a good while back...the latest is restore and protect.
extended protection is the same oil just change the name but im using restore and protect. I have been using valvoline for 30 years great oil great price except restore and protect is a little pricy.
If you want to see the “crap” that is being fed in to your combustion chamber (ie burnt carbon contaminated oil vapor, fed straight on to the back of your inlet valves) install a catch can after your PCV valve. After a few hundred miles you’ll see a dirty brown liquid in the can. Experiment with this. Heat up a spare valve and immerse it the liquid. The carbon will attach itself to your valve. So now you know where the carbon is coming from. So how do we fix this? My opinion is you need to do several things, like……install a catch can, or two, use the correct high quality oil, change your oil out more frequently, I change between 5000 to 7,000 max. Use the highest quality gas you can. I completely agree about continuous short runs, they promote carbon build up. Get your engine warm. The majority of carbon comes from hot oil vapor being fed in to your cylinders through the intake valves. Blow by on a warn engine is also a carbon source. If you have cylinder blow by the carbon will build up on your piston head. If you have valve stem blow by the carbon will build up on the back of your valves. The real fix would be an oil that does not produce carbon suspended in its hot vapor. I’m hoping there are some smart scientists working on this one!
So, is this the way an oil can have a cleaning effect, as it's being inserted into the upper cylinder via the PCV valve?
I drive a Ford focus ST back-and-forth to work hundred miles round-trip and I put over 120,000 mile over the years maybe five. And I run the Walmart brand synthetic and I try and get top-tier gas. My intake valves are clean surprisingly, so is the entire engine inside nose buildup? I’m just lucky I guess.
The awnser is in your driving habits. I have a gen one 3.5l ecoboost (direct injection only) in a 2017 expedition with 238,000 Miles on it and no issues. As Tim said but I will expand: run an hour to work and you won't have an issue as the volatiles in the oil will get consumed by the engine and won't stick to the back of a cold intake valve because it isn't cold and they are no longer present at shut down. Do so at least once a week and no issues. Mine had all kinds of crap oil and was run all over Glendale AZ in that heat but the duty cycle could handle the volitiles because she was driven long distances high speed. With your commute I doubt you can go wrong.
At my previous employer, I was issued a 2015 Silverado 1500 as a company truck. I'm friends with the service guys and we got curious about how bad the intake would be since it's DI only. It really didn't look bad at all for nearly 100k miles. We all figured it's helped by the fact the engine doesn't have EGR and the oil is changed more often and consistently than the average truck owner.
@@karlschauff7989I had a 2015 Silverado with the 4.3. Had the intake checked at about 120,000 and it wasn't bad at all.I dont think carbon build is that big of an issue. Maybe if you drive like a grandma or do lots of short trips.
There are two types of carbon build up in engines. There is carbon buildup on the piston in the combustion chamber and there is carbon buildup on the valves. Carbon buildup in the combustion chamber can cause engines to knock because it can both increase compression and provide hotspots for detonation. The carbon buildup on the valves comes from the PCV system which vents the crankcase into the intake tract. Often the buildup on the valves is worst on Valves closest to where the PCV system vents to the intake. Modern engines, especially turbo charged engines, have higher pressures because instead of filling the cylinder by vacuum, they fill through boost. Some of that boost gets past the rings. Low tension piston rings meant to help mileage don’t help with this. The crank case has oil vapor in it that cooks on the intake valves. A catch can or separator will help with this, but needs to be maintained. Oils that don’t cook can help minimize this too.
Best thing for fighting carbon buildup is avoiding the misguided trend of extended oil changes and, as you said, cars that do not bathe the valves with gas.
Bingo.
Key question. How does the oil get to the wrong place (top of the intake valve)? Why no discussion of the "Catch Can"? The EGR system takes oil residues (vapors and light liquids) back through the intake system where it accumulates on the hottest surface (intake valve). Any full synthetic (uniform molecule size - engineered molecule - GTL Gas to Liquid process) breaks down much slower than a mineral oil (refinery distillation process) where molecules are similar but not identical, so they don't carry the load evenly on bearing surfaces. Any quality full synthetic breaks down much more slowly, producing much less contamination to be deposited on the intake valves.
Sure you can add a catch can.
You omitted one of the biggest culprits in carbon buildup in GDI gasoline engines--Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR). Just as has been the case with diesel engines for over 20 years, EGR is a major contributor to carbon buildup on intake valves. As EPA regs have tightened emission requirements to what are now ridiculously strict levels, EGR has become the major method of reducing NOx emissions in gasoline engines. This started over 20 years ago with diesel engine emission control regs. EGR use got so excessive on diesels that the engines' performance and longevity were severely compromised. The "answer" was to move NOx reduction outside of the combustion chamber using Selective Catalyst Reduction and Diesel Exhaust Fluid, adding yet another level of sensitive equipment, complexity, and cost to the diesel engine. Even at that, EGR is still used and is still a problem on diesel engines. Gasoline engines are going to go the same route as emission regs tighten yet again. Also, GDI also is increasing particulate emissions on gasoline engines. Get ready for particulate filters and regens to be required on gasoline engines within a few years. Keep voting for leftist politicians and the EPA regs will effectively outlaw internal combustion engines within a few years. The EPA emission regs are no longer about cleaning the air, they are about eliminating people's ability to afford to own personal vehicles. That's already close at hand.
I have often wondered if we could use water/steam in place of the EGR exhaust gas to control NOx. Yes it would require distilled water keep hot enough to keep it in vapor form. It would probably rust the cat or SCR twice as fast
Low tension rings used today are more likely to get stuck causing more blowby. Using good quality Syn oil can help stop stuck rings or free them up.
Amsoil, HPL, Pennzoil Ultra, Valvoline Restore & Protect are good products.
5000k mile oil changes..high octant fuel..italian tune up.
My wife's 2022 CRV 1.5 turbo engine has a built in catch can that drains it back to the oil pan , I run 5x40 full syn and only use top tier gas.
Also, be sure to change your oil every 3k miles instead of extended oil changes, because the extended mileage oil changes are for people that drive exactly like the owner's manual states, but in reality, that is not how 95% of the population actually drive. But unfortunately people do not read their owner's manuals.
3000 if you use non synthetic oils.
I have a Subaru 2021 forester with direct injection. Quality oil …So what oil should I use ? Gasoline is Costco signature ok ? So confused…..
Valvoline synthetic oil is good and Costco gas is top-tier gas so it is among the best you can get.
Full synthetic oil. Often a good idea to go up one weight in oil to reduce loss of viscosity. Top tier gas is best and an occasional use of combustion cleaners like BG 44k is good.
Great video!! I wonder what everyones position is on an oil catch can?? I dont think OEM would do it cause its extra maintenance for the customer
My oil catch can separates mainly condensation, some sort of additive in the oil, and gas vapors. Doesn't catch much oil. Whatever deposits and accumulation I find in the can isn't going through the turbo, back into the combustion chamber, or being deposited on the intake valves. I think the EGR combined with the oil vapors is the major contributing factor for intake valve deposits.
I could be wrong on this but I think by California law emissions systems parts have to last over 100,000 miles or perhaps longer without maintenance. That would have to be one big catch can! Also, any breather on the can would be not allowed.
I'm wondering why this new Restore & Protect oil will not meet Dexos certification. Lots of GM GDI engines could use cleaner piston rings to reduce oil consumption.
Change your oil sooner and you have less build up. As the oil gets old it will break down and thin out. You also get added contamination in the crankcase. Through the PCV system you will have more oil vapors entering the intake manifold.working it's way to the intake valves. With the extended oil changes that are recommended you find modern engine consuming more oil. Most now burn one quart every 3 to 5 thousand miles. If you don't see oil leaking on your driveway, it's leaking into your intake manifold. These engineers are foolish to recommend 7,500 or higher oil changes. Their recommendations are based it perfect world conditions and marketing.
Change your oil sooner and avoid and or reduce this problem. I am not an engineer and don't play one on TV. I just build engines for the last 45 years and have seen business increased with these flawed recommendations ❤.
Recomendations are focused on the vehicle surviving to the End of the Warranty period. No More.. no less.
Hi Tim,
Thank you for sharing this information.
Hopefully other oil manufacturers will offer oil to help with build up.
Is there an API specification for this?
Great video to sum it all up...GDI started with lots of issues with carbon build up but as time and tech moves forward. those issues get mitigated. Which is the same with all new car tech but people still whine how bad turbos are or cameras, or this that and the other....
“Atomizes” not autonomize. Thanks!
Doesn't the PCV system introduce this to the back side of the valves no matter what?
A little oil will escape from PCV valve.
I pulled my intake manifold at 90k plenty of oil came out I new a catch can was a must. Especially since I drive alot of short trips in colder climate
@@justingill5256 The higher the cylinder pressures, the more the engine leaks cold yes.
@@peiguy1982 fill it 1000 miles winter 5000 miles summer
@@justingill5256 Yes and all that normally travels back through the intake and not to back side of the valves to be reburned.
I thought the crankcase ventilation to the intake and exhaust gas recirculation to the intake was causing the buildup.
A friend put 186,000 miles on his 2012 F150 ecoboost without any issues caused by carbon buildup. But, the miles were driving 35 miles each way to work which kept the engine hot.
Companies are using thinner oil to reduce friction to get better gas mileage start using a 5W 30 oil you will have no oil burn and better lubrication. Toyota same engines in Japan use 5w-30 United States, OW-20 or OW-16.
not true anymore, Japan engines use the lower viscosity oils now.
Some new Toyota engines in Japan even use 0W-8 oil.
I just started using Valvoline Restore in my Ranger to reduce carbon build up. Normally I run Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20/30 full Synthetic. We will see if and how it works.
I would like to hear your results on this !
I have a ‘15 Sierra with the 6.2. It was dealer maintained most of its life for the first 90k miles. The engine started to stumble on startup at around 30k miles if I remember right. I had a $100 dealer coupon and used it towards their intake cleaning. After that I’ve done my own intake cleanings before each oil change mostly using Seafoam’s intake cleaning product. A couple of years ago I read an article that talked about Pennzoil European car oil and how it could reduce carbon buildup so I gave it a try even though it wasn’t Dexos certified and the thinnest weight was 0w30 instead of 0w20 GM recommends. It seems to work but I also swear I get worse gas mileage using it. I’ll look at this Valvolene oil and might give it a try.
Awesome video great topic… your right oil has come along way in the last 10 years let alone 20 but I think a catch can helps tremendously I wish I would of added one from day 1
@eclipes00 Same here! I'm installing one tomorrow in my 2014 F150 EB.
Port with.direct injection and 5000 mile oil change intervals are the answer to this question
Depending on towing, short trips in colder climate and lots of cold starts 3.5 to 4k in winter! I fill my catch can in 800 miles in winter
BINGO but people are Lazy AF with oil prices for better oils and maintenance in general ☠️
I’m blaming these extended oil changes!I still change my full synthetic at 5-6000 miles.
I change mine by 5k miles, sooner if it's an oil change after the winter season.
I've used 5W30 Full Synthetic with Premium filter every 5k mile with first change at 750mile breakin. I have 237K on engine with no problems as of yet.
@@scottpearce7466 sounds great ! what kind of car is it ?
In 2021 I bought my 1st Turbo GDI car. I'm using Castrol Edge and premium fuel in it. Changing every 300 to max 3500. Miles. I'm retired so this will be my last new car. Hopefully doing this will greatly increase the engines longevity.
I could be wrong but if you actually floor it like at least a couple times a week, you shouldn’t really have an issue w carbon build up, also using ‘top tier gas’ is more important I think vs any oil
As long as you get the engine hot and you buy good gas, you should be fine according to the people I’ve talked with over the years.
Do some research on gas refining. It all comes out of the same refinery there is no difference in gas.
@@lawrencefranck9417 You need to do some research if you don't understand that the additive package for each gasoline brand and each grade of gasoline within a brand is different.
@@4af I have worked a port distribution port. One tanker fills three major brands and the amount of additives is so minuscule as to be irrelevant.
if you were just a laborer you have no authority to claim the gallon or so of additives added to each 8500 gallon tanker truck load is "irreverent" or not. A petroleum chemist I know at Shell insists that every car will benefit from the additive package used in Shell Premium grade gasoline.
Great topic and update!
Thanks Tim!!
Car Care Nut, Scotty Kilmer, Automotive Press and others say to change your oil every 5000 miles, not 10,000. Car Care Nut took a Toyota four cylinder engine apart with a bit less than 200,000 miles that had the oil changed every 10,000 miles and there was a lot of sludge and varnish in the engine. He did it to show what happens when you change oil according to factory standards. Some say changing oil every 3000 miles on turbocharged engines would be a good idea. Most engines today are duel injection. My 3rd gen Tacoma has duel injection systems. It may be a good thing to check before buying a car. When you talk about oil blow by are you talking valve guide seals or piston rings?
Just use the severe service intervals listed in your manual. Actually, read the SAE spec on "normal" versus "severe" service. Do you know anybody who falls under "normal" service? The manual on my 2020 N car specifies a 3k miles oil change interval for severe service. It is a GDI turbo and I use a Saikou-Michi catch can.
Confusing subject, best left to the experts. A ton of bad information in this video. Not the presenter's fault, it's too much.
One example: "Valvoline Modern Engine Oil" is a product that has been discontinued for 4 years now. It originally came out 7 years ago. The Amazon page at the 6:57 point of the video is $28 per quart because somebody has NOS on their shelves and people still want to get it. (BTW, dexos1 Gen2 is not current; we are up to Gen3 now.) The "Modern Engine Oil" product never got marketed effectively and it was confusing for most people to think about. Valvoline has now levereged their Cummins ISX15 piston ring-land carbon cleaning technology with newer R&D to have the new (3 months old) "Valvoline Restore and Protect", which could help the valve stem cleaning via PCV circulation. This is way too complicated. Leave it to the chemists at Valvoline, this new stuff probably works (Sequence IIIH results Valvoline reveals show it should). Although, it usually comes down to walnut-blasting the back sides of the intake valves at the repair shop, sorry!
many years ago my old ranger actually had a few tsb releases about carbon buildup causing detonation at part throttle.back before knock sensors.the factory recomended fuel system cleaners followed by a few itialian tuneups.& that was all port injected as well.
Good topic and video, thanks for sharing Tim.
Tim i dout you remember our conversation on the last video but this is exactly what i was trying to say. Ill tip my hat too you. You actually got to the root problem. Although i dont agree with Valvoline oil isnt the fix but it can help. PCV systems are actually what causes this but they are necessary. The real answer is dual fuel injection systems "like ford uses" Great video.
See I listen! Now tell my wife that. 😂
@@Pickuptrucktalk I'll stick too arguing with you. I figure she would roast me 😂
Toyota and others too.
Like Ford copied from Toyota? Ford is too dumb to come up with something that actually works! Leave that to the Japanese who have a 🧠 that functions
EGR is another source. The pictures of carboned up intakes are usually from older DI-only engines with EGR systems and antiquated PCV designs that made zero effort to separate oil mist from the gases leaving the crankcase.
Valvoline restor and protect is not compatible with landrover 3 litre staight six engines as put in the latest defender D250 D300. It specifies 0w30 and only says use castrol
A good "Italian Tune up" needs to happen every month or so if you're not putting many highway miles on.
Pretty much anything i drive will get a pull thru a few gears daily. 😂
Yep! “RTB”…Run That Bish!
I changed oil in my 2017 Camry SE 2AR-Fe 4-cylinder with a consumption issue from gummed up low tension and oil piston rings . It's a problem with Toyota if you don't change oil at 5k anyhow it only has 80k on it so I'm trying the restore and protect. It's good so far.
I like that Valvoline promotes this but surely Mobil 1, Penzoil, and others have this formula now.
Oh I’m sure.
It's mainly an ester cut added.
Eco boost engines have both direct and port injectors to lower the amount of carbon.
The 2.7 and 2.3 needed it since Ford decided to use an EGR system (and EGR cooler) on it. EGR is a huge contributor to intake carbon on some DI engines. I believe one of the older Toyota engines that had DI only had an EGR system and caused a lot of the issues with carbon.
One or 2 long road trip will or should take care of the carbon.
Hold her to the floor once in a while
The new oil is restore and protect version of valvoline this is what they claim is a new breakthrough in oil technology im not a valvoline user so im not a fan boy I typically use pennzoil.
I switched from ultra plat to valvo r&p & I feel a lil improvement. So far I've driven 350mi with it
The best thing to do is step away from the direct injection technology and save yourself the stress and cost.
I think I'll take my own advice and drive my incredibly smooth and powerful V6 Rav4 to the grocery store, buy a pizza slice, then sit in the parking lot and watch some trucks rolllll coal!!! 😊
Install a catch can a oil separator if possible 👍🏼
There was never a problem with valve carbon buildup with either a port injector only or a carburetor.
Correct.
I feel DI carbon build up issues are largely overblown. Proper maintenance can really keep things running well. Even if there is a bit of build up, it's really not much of an issue by itself.
That oil is to clean pistons around the rings. It won't be effective on intake valve deposity. A catch can should be installed in the PCV system to avoid some of the carbon buildup. As soon as you buy the car.
Tim, you mentioned top tier gas. I have 2 Shell gas stations within a mile of each other, one station has the top tier sticker on the pump, the other station does not. Are they the same gas, or is the station that doesn't have the sticker just using the shell name so they can charge more money?
Go to Shell. Cheap gas is… cheap in more ways than one.
@Pickuptrucktalk they both have the shell sign ,just different convenience stores as well as one has the top tier sticker on the pump while the other station doesn't. I'm wondering if they are both Shell or the station that doesn't have the top tier sticker is knock off gas. I've filled at both stations and haven't noticed a difference in milage or power.
@@jameshumphrey5923 or maybe the other gas station hasn't installed the stickers? Most gas stations have top tier gas.
Just drill a hole in the plastic intake runner past the mass air flow sensor install a premium aftermarket tire air valve remove Schrader valve run engine about 1500 RPM start spraying carburetor cleaner in valve I would do it every oil change
Ok..0w20-30-40 Class 4 Syn Oil...Change yourself every 3 to 5 thousand miles with new filter..Gas or Diesel/Star Tron Fuel Enzyme treatment..With GDI engines..Check PCV valve more often/ Big Catch Can ready at 90,000 miles+.......
I use Shell V Power nitro thinking the extra detergents and additives will keep the injectors clean and fully atomize the fuel to minimize incomplete combustion and soot. I use Subaru oil certified API ILSAC GF-5 in my 2019 Forester and change it every 3K miles. The thought here is frequent changes will minimize the amount of soot and other contaminants in the oil and oil vapor and less that will deposit on the intake valves.
The short is answer. It's complicated. A good oil spec, will help reduce carbon build up. But it can't totally prevent it.
All GF6 rated oil has good LSPI and carbon prevention characteristics, but oil change intervals are too long.
Thanks for the video. Newly subbed! I have a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 MegaCab and use 89-grade non-ethanol gas. I was changing the oil about every 5000 miles with Valvoline full synthetic 5W20 (always). I removed the valve covers to change the spark plugs, seals, and gasket and saw some sludge. It actually shocked me! My plan went into action, which was to begin changing the oil at 1,000, then 2,000, and then at 2500, and using K&N or FRAM Titanium filters. I would add one-half quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and run it for about 250 miles before each change. I just changed the oil at 2,500 miles yesterday with Valvoline Restore and Protect. The changed oil was always dirty, and I am curious how my plan was working. The Ram has 245,000 miles at yesterday's oil change. Would you have any thoughts on my plan or tips to consider?
Keep the plan going. You are taking well care of your truck.
What about the new Valvoline Restore & Protect ? Wish they had a 10-40 .
❤ I am considering buying a Porsche with an obvious valve ticking sound. These incredible vehicles have issues with carbon buildup from Direct Injection. The car has over 115 K and compared in videos to mine there is a loudish valve click sound a the left head of the V8. Should I take a chance and buy this at a discount and start using Valvoline restore oil and some rather quick 2500 mile oil changes and some carbon blow out drives up the mountain. Thanks again this is an interesting discussion because I think I can save these Porsche V8 twin turbos from engine death. Thanks again...
I use Chevron 91, Motul 8100 100% synthetic oil and a Boomba catch can. 14K miles on my WRX and runs great..
This is why I owned a Hemi, it all stayed nice and clean with the port injection up to the 100k miles. My 13 ecoboost use to spew the soot out like a diesel highway passing.
I think manufactures need to include port injection like Toyota and Ford does. That would prevent it. Extended oil change intervals and people who idle excessively is the main issue from what I’ve seen with direct injection.
Although this appears to be a marketing ploy by Valvoline at the moment it wouldn’t surprise me if it became part of an API certification.
Gone are the days when you could just throw the cheapest oil into an engine even if you changed it more frequently than the manufacturer recommendation.
Interesting, Tim. I like videos like this.👍
You guys gave me this video idea. So thank you!
The Chevy 2.7 turbo that’s on the newer Colorado and the canyon has a build in internal catch can so the turbo and the intake valves won’t get damage.
TFL channel had interviewed the main project engineer for that particular engine.
As for this oil, I would not put this on a Ford engine that has a wet belt driven oil pump, the potency of this oil and the wet belt sitting at the bottom of the crankcase will wear out this rubber belt fast and eventually the pieces will clog the oil screen. Time will tell…
If you can run the engine cleaner it will reduce carbon build up.
You can also free up the oil rings by bonding a lubricant to them.
🙂
P.S. Oil choice is also very important as oils that leave fewer deposits will help.
Agree 100%
Will this oil help the GM 3L Diesel?
Catch can!
Dual injection is an expensive stop gap solution to poor engine designs that use a lot of oil. That blowby oil in the crankcase is routed to the PCV and back over the intake valves. Stop the source of the problem by eliminating most blowby products and secondarily use detergents in the gasoline to scrub off the intake valves.
My 2015 Fit's intake valves don't look like new but there is no buildup on them after 110,000 miles. Use good oils and gasolines, I use Exxon/Mobil and Shell gasolines and Mobil 1 oils, along with good engine designs and you wont see this problem.
Engines outlast cars ten fold in the rust belt.
We don't need the engines to last longer, we need our government and auto companies to stop putting corrosives on the roads.
Why don't people adress this issue.
Ive seen whole undercarriages come loose on a perfect looking car, subframe mounts rotted right off.
I've seen brake lines rot through in 3 years.
Fix whats broke
People like to hate on California but salt isn’t allowed to be put on roads in California-roads are plowed and sanded.
It’s not as effective as salt because the sand doesn’t melt the snow, only adds grit to the top but at least the cars aren’t falling apart.
I’m certain the reason they don’t allow salt isn’t to protect cars but rather to keep excess salts out of the river systems, but it’s still a benefit to cars nonetheless.
I just had the KIA dealer put in Valvoline restore & protect in my OIL glutton KIA after they did th e2nd piston soak in 3 k miles.
I'm sorry, but this Sounded like a valvolene commercial. Why even bring up the conversation with Stellantis? When they didn't give you anything on what they did with their new engines to prevent carbon buildup? What are they saying? Their new hurricane engines and the carbon buildup issue that they could potentially have. Seems like adding a second injector to the port would have solved a lot of the issues. But I am canceling my 2025 Ram order. Because there's no clear response from Stellantis Is about what their solution is to direct injection and carbon build up.
16ozs of Militec-1 totally cures any carbon buildup or sticking with all oiled parts. I've done this on about 2 dozen vehicles now with great success
Only takes a few hours of running for it to unstick rings
Also, use gasoline with Zero Ethanol, and you'll have a cleaner engine.
Unfortunately you cannot find such gasoline in the USA.
If petrol was prewarmed ? If there was no electrical false signal ? Directly on the valve is ideal
bk oil and fuel treatment
Snow performance kit? Will that fix issue
A what?
I strongly believe Water/Meth injection is the best valve cleaning method and cheapest and definitely do a great Job! I have Snow meth injection, Catch Can (UPR) and changing the oil every 5K miles at max. 233K miles on my 6.2 2015 Silverado and pulled the valve cover three times and the last time was on 210K miles and everything shines as gold! no build up whats so ever.
Also running a Whipple supercharger making 600rwhp to the wheels.
I have a Toyota yaris for short trip and grocery…etc if thats matter as i do not like idling for long periods inside the city.
We have been building GM V8 gasoline DI engines for the last 20 years and for the last 10 years these are the methods we are recommending for our clients and almost on weekly basis we build 2-3 engines and we know how the DI builds that junk 🤮 behind the valve.
Port injection is a good choice but high $$
23 drops 10w30, per.
Gallon fuel. Mix well.
Fillup.
Combustion is a filthy process. Tied one fuel is a bitjoke . Ask any tanker truck driver filling the tanks at your local station. In Southern California it’s coming from one of 3 refineries simple as . Marathon Valero and Los Angeles. Guess where Costco buys their fuel from? The cheapest on that given day .
The additive package for each gasoline brand and each grade of gasoline within a brand is unique and proprietary.
I am very sceptical that ANY of the fuel additives can make a difference with GDI because the additives are instantly combusted before reaching any carbon deposits. At least with Port Injection the fuel additives have a chance to contact the valve seats and piston chamber surfaces before combustion. And how are oil additives supposed to survive the high operating temperatures of the crank case at full op temp? None of the manufacturers of products with additives will disclose any details regarding their additives because they say it is proprietary information. They all just make nice videos with claims and they just say "trust us".
GDI only engines should be banned. Every engine should be port injection.
Wow not right……. Oil comes from the crankcase ventilation. So any blow by the rings causes combustion gasses to build up in the crankcase. This blow by is sent to the intake manifold where it is mixed with a small amount of exhaust by the EGR. The small amount of exhaust mixes with the oil vapor from the crankcase and that causes an oily mess that causes a carbon buildup.
The only way to keep the intake clean is to buy a vehicle with both direct injection and port injection. Then it’s a no issue.
This has nothing to due with leakage past the valves……
This is exactly what I was waiting to be addressed. And it was totally missed. An oil that vaporizes less will cause less buildup, but unless we remove or address the PCV system, oil vapour and EGR will get onto the intake valves and not be washed off.
Oil. You said it in so many words. The issue is oil building up which I covered.
@@Pickuptrucktalk The oil is not (NOT) from the valves. It’s not leaking down the valve stems and getting past the valve seals.
Many oil companies make oil that is less likely to vaporize and get drawn into the intake and cause carbon buildup.
But NONE stop the buildup….. None
Port injection cleans the intakes valves 100 percent in di toyotas no problem
They better stop making fake oils, this is not good for car engines and the environment.
Atonomizing? Atomizing* 😂
😅 a complete burn is a lie! Gasoline engines will never get a complete burn. You will always have unburned gases that's just how inefficient gasoline engines are. Run whatever oil you want and some ATF.
Tim one of your least favorite engines.. the f-150 5.0 has direct and port injection
Thats why u buy a duel injection
Mazda has a great combustion system that is very efficient .
Tim, every IC engine ever built suffers from incomplete combustion, That is a fact. Emission control systems like PCV and EGR contribute even more to incomplete combustion. Duty/driving cycle also contributes to this problem. They have figured out the various contributors to incomplete combustion. They have minimized the problem. But they have not eliminated it. Valvoline is practicing capitalism. They want our money. The real cause is severe environmental rules and regulations imposed on the engine builders by the Air Nazi's at USEPA and CARB and the technologies the manufacturers use to meet those rules and regulations.
ATF
I will still keep my duel injection engine....verses other engines.
Tim you are driving me nuts the way you pronounce ATOMIZING. It is A-TO-MI-ZING.
Ask me to pronounce Toyota sometime. 😂
Anyone ever see the movie Heartbreak Ridge…. Where the marinesr running with clint and they say lets smoke this sucka…and they go blasting past clint eastwood……they sprint past only to have clint catch up and run past them signifying that they have miles to go….as they r all exhausted from sprinting…i fear the 5.7 hemi is clint 395 hp and the marines represent the 3.0 hurricane at 540 hp. I see 2024 hemis running 20 yrs from now do i see 2025 hurricanes running…….i hope so
Buy a cheap car, drive it lots, maintain it the best you can
Atom - izing
Not Automomizing
sorry BG not bk