Been an Auto and Diesel tech for 34yrs. I noticed when you go 10k miles on an oil change per manufacturer suggested intervals the engines have more problems than engines that have oil changes at half the suggested miles. There’s engineered in a lab results, then there’s realistic results. I’ll stick with what’s realistic 👍🏻
@@Brocephus77 even less around 3,000 MI in -30c or lower temps. Northern Alberta Canada. It's a lot of moisture going into the crankcase, also had to start it every few hours at work you can tell on the oil fill cap it's always milky LOL
I been working as a dealer technician for years. I respect your opinion and I am not a oil expert or an engineer. But what I do know is what I see on a daily basis coming in my busy shop. I see ALOT of 10k mile oil changes coming in. But I also see alot of premature engine failure and high amounts of engine sludge and a host of engine issues with these 10k mile oil change interval customers. To be fair I also see a lot less engine issues with vehicles that maintain a 5000 mile or 6 months whichever comes first oil change interval.
Yes. Instead of interviewing an hourly "quick lube dealer technician" we have an actual engineer here... amazing how the masses put more faith in a stealership quick line tech
@@flyingjeff1984there are more than 3 companies that produce Base Oils. Since these can be produced at every refinery, the supply is plentiful (unless you go for exotic base oils like PAO, GTL or Ester but even PAO are produced in some refineries). But the additive manufacturers are indeed very limited. There's only a demand for little quantities (compared to base oils) with highly specialized processes.
Oil/filter change costs me ~$50. I have absolutely zero problem doing it every 3k miles or so. One thing for sure, my engine is staying nice and clean inside. It's a very small price to pay to ensure long life for my engine. You guys that wanna go 10k miles, be my guest, but I don't want to buy your used vehicle.
My neighbor does only 2 oil changes during his 3yr lease. The first free one at the dealership and one right before turn in . He states whoever buy this after me better get an extended warranty because they gonna need it .😊
The days of changing oil every 3K miles was when additive technology was beginning. Today oils like Mobile 1, Schaffer, Amsoil all do fine up to 10K. Have done this on a 345K mile Tundra. When changing oil comes out slightly darker then put in. Wasting your money changing that soon, not a race car!
I had 698, 714 KM on a '91 VW Jetta Turbodiesel, changed oil/filter at VW recommended 8000KM intervals. I had no leaks, no burning oil, and the engine was still running great when an a-hole running a Red light destroyed the car. Best car i ever had, same clutch, trans/differential, same axle shafts. I put roughly 1100-1200KM weekly on it. 8000KM converts to about 4971 miles.
@@jackchueh1231 - I know right? I if the logic "oil changes are cheaper than engines" is the answer to everything, you can't be too careful so maybe 1,500 OCI is what we should be doing. Seriously though I drive old cars that are new enough to run clean and efficient and have very short timing chains. No cam phasers and such. I know, I know I'm an old geezer. But if you have long complex timing chains and depend on the additives for hydraulic function for all I know 3k OCI is better. But that's one of the reasons I don't run engines like that. They're too high maintenance. IMO it defeats the purpose of cheap transportation to begin with. I get 29mpg on the highway and about 20 in my local commute it's good enough for me. Wrenching with Kenny replaced a stretched timing chain on a GM ecotec with 211,000 miles. It appeared to be maintained well and the owner said the OCI was 5k. Maybe the owner was fudging a bit, I don't know. But the conclusion of Kenny was that the timing chain wouldn't have stretched if the change interval was 3k. But I wonder about that. But again, IMO justing having a long timing chain is a problem to begin with. It is going to be the weak point of the engine.
As a 24-year synthetic lubricants dealer, people don't understand and I don't blame them because they don't know, the vast majority of synthetic oils on the market today the base oil is still made from crude oil. look up the term hydrocracking. Castrol brought that into existence many many years ago and the term "synthetic" has been redefined. you very well may be buying a synthetic oil but it's still a crude base mineral oil and not a chemically synthesized synthetic as it used to be known. Now that being said it is a huge improvement over conventional mineral oil it's heavily refined it's Hydro cracked which means it goes through a process that breaks down or splits the molecular structure of the oil to make it more uniform. The best way to describe that would be if you look at oil on a molecular level crude oil has very irregular shapes and sizes, they are trying to roll over one another similar to a bowl of marbles but if you're using a truly synthesized synthetic it's chemical made all the molecules are exactly the same size that's why a true class 4 synthetic oil reduces friction. The term "fully" synthetic means nothing, it's a marketing term also don't waste your money on a synthetic blend because there's no industry standard that regulates the blending ratio so you literally could buy a qt of blend and get a tablespoon of synthetic stock and be paying more for no advantage. I never recommend a synthetic blend either stick with a good quality mineral based oil or go with a higher end TRUE synthetic. if you look at the classifications of oil there's class one, two, three, four, five class. one and two is a mineral base conventional oil the only thing that separates those is the level of refinement. it's similar to diesel fuel and kerosene, diesel fuel is dirtier than kerosene basically the same but one's cleaner more refined. class 3 is a hydro cracked also known as a pseudo synthetic oil that's the majority of what's on the market and you can always tell based upon cost and then class four is a chemically synthesized hydrocarbon oil not manufactured from crude by the time you reach the fifth category that is a high-end Esther typically you don't ever find a engine oil made from Esters they are super rare, but they are used as additives in "True" synthetic oil. There's absolutely no problem with doing extended oil changes but there's a number of factors that go into it. I am not only a 24-year veteran of being a lubricant dealer but I've been a mechanic for 40 years and a fleet manager for 20 years. if you're doing extended drains only do them when you're using quality filtration including bypass filtration and oil analysis that way you're taking any risk or guesswork out of the equation. Oil drain intervals very greatly even using the same oil. I have ran vehicles 25k miles using oil analysis and the oil is still perfectly good. sometimes you run the oil do a sample they may tell you to change the filter and top it off the oil still good for continued use. I've also ran the same oil in engines instead of getting 25k out of it it may be completely trashed at 12k depends on the engine and the drivers application. So to give you a blanket drain interval if you're doing extended drains is not a good idea that's why I always recommend people do oil analysis and just in case you're not familiar with oil analysis it goes far beyond just telling you if the engine oil is good or bad. I have diagnosed many engine problems using all analysis looking at the wear Metals in the oil, fuel dilution, coolant contamination Etc. it gives you basically the same equivalent of doing blood work on your body. I am a advocate for extended drains over the long term it does reduce cost and environmental waste also downtime if you have a fleet. Now that being said if you're an average guy and you don't want to mess with doing all that then just change your oil and filter using quality products that you've researched and have confidence in not marketing but do you research and change it when the manufacturer recommends or at least when you feel comfortable.
@TheHillrat4wd........I Had a 1994 Dodge/Cummins powered, that I used AMSOIL 15w-40 100 PERCENT synthetic, and a bypass oil filter system for 10 years and 155 thousand miles, using "OIL ANALYSIS" every 12 K miles,and the oil was NEVER drained, just added added oil when needed, which wasn't very often! "OIL ANALYSIS results always came back indicating oil was good for "CONTINUED USE"!
Oil doesn't remove contaminants from an engine until you remove the contaminated oil from the engine. You're not changing the oil at 3k miles because the oil is bad, you're changing it to remove the contaminated oil from the engine. Or you can keep the contaminated oil in your engine for 10k miles. It's up to you but I don't like running oil for 10k miles. Even if the oil is still technically good, I want to get the contaminants out sooner than later.
A single drop of oil from the dip-stick onto a clean coffee filter paper ( done in timeMileage sequence)will show the relative dispersion of different time/ mileage sample drops of oil. Not science, but practical and a lot quicker and inexpensive.
Thanks for bringing on an industry professional to try and dispel all the social media hype. I still personally like 5k oil change intervals. I feel like I use my vehicles a bit more rigorously, and giving me a reason to crawl underneath the vehicle every 5k to look things over while the oil is draining.
@@LexusGX460-OFF-ROAD really depends on the specific use and what an oil analysis says. In lieu of that I like to be extra conservative at the detriment to my wallet and also for my human condition for wanting a more regular inspection.
Inherited an oil burner. 2.4L Toyota. Guys in Pont Vibe club all say the same thing. What ever temp measures we take, We’re simply putting off the inevitable. Engine rebuild or replacement. Your thoughts? Do piston soaks work? Or is there a great product/ procedure you have experience with? Thx
@@NormalhowaboutyouI'm a new Vibe 2.4l owner and just did my first oil change with standard synthetic. Trying to determine the rate of oil burn. Once I know, I plan on trying out the new on the market Valvoline restore and protect. I'll probably swap the oil filter after about 2000 miles, to see if it captured anything
Get some 5W-30 Valvoline Restore and Protect and do a few 3000?-5000 mile oil changes with that oil. You will be amazed. I have fixed oil burning on a bunch of Toyotas with this simple fix.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think I ever heard a word from the Vavoline engineer about going to 10,000 miles on an oil change interval. But I did pick up on the Restore and Protect infomercial format and the fact that lighter weight oils are more for epa milage figures than protecting your engine for the long term.
When you start paying for my parts you can dictate my oil change interval until the I'm not going over 5k. Oil is cheaper then a engine. Also something you should ask the car manufacturer is the list of oils that a car can use because they may say use a 0w oil but the engine is build for a whole range of oils depending on your driving.
@@adamsmiths3016 Don’t conflate information as a demand. Live your life as you choose. The rest of us don’t care. Use the information or don’t. Your choice.
If you talk to mechanics who are taking these things apart, they notice the longer oil change intervals are not helping with engine longevity. Those longer intervals are good enough to get you through most warranties. Now the dealerships are off the hook for warranty work. Work that could have been prevented through more frequent changes. Mechanics are the ones in the trenches seeing what comes in.
I've read by an auto engineer that the thinner oils are meant to improve mileage, but are only only worried about the engine through the warranty like you said. My car holds 8.8q and I still change it every 5k. I drive hard and an engine is $20k. $90 bucks twice a years is just fine with me.
Most mechanics will rarely take an egine appart. The ones that do will do it as a specialty. Meaning: you have a huge selection bias. You will never see the engines that keep on goining.
@@ApaX1981that's so true.. you should see Toyota tech freaking out cause they have to change short block by the dozen when they haven't had to change engine in years let alone rebuilt one. They literally butcher the whole truck cause they never did something like this in such a long time.. scratch paint.. cracked grills... you name it. As for my oil ... 0w20 since new on my ecotec 3. Amsoil signature series every 10k km... now at 230k km and no issue whatsoever yet. Keep in mind I'm in Northern Canada where its cold more than half the year. 0w20 is golden for here. Warm up quick .. cool down quick. 5w40. Is what they use to race those engine and heavy duty 6.6 l8t is on 5w30 from the oem and have the same exact bearing than the 6.2 or the 5.3 that are on 0w20. It's all about range of operation and bearing clearance. Thin oil clean better in my belief.
The Oil Geek says that the 10,000 mile range on todays oil has been pushed by the EPA ( government ) so as not to use or have to dispose of as much volume of oil. He suggested you stick with a 5000 mile range if you plan on keeping your car long term vs if you lease or going to trade your car every few years then go with the 10,000 mile according to the car manufacturer!
Jasons and Lake Speed Jnr ( the oil geek ) tech info suits me fine. Interesting to see the extended range of oil products in the States more than here in Australia.
I worked in oil and gas in Louisiana for over a decade. Crude oil is 100% black. The oil sent to facilities that formulate the finished product is refined and clear.
Yeah, nothing that eons old from way down in the earth is coming out clear like water! I knew that wasn't possible. And in oil fields all around the Derrick's is black oil.
I'm glad to see Valvoline come on and talk to the different YT personalities and not only talk about their product per the advertising, but also state the reason they are able to make the claims, but also show the proof to back it up. Far too often we hear a lot of ads and then some bragging etc., but there isn't any "proof" to their claims.
Well I have Honda accord with 355000 miles I ran 5 w 30 by Castrol magnetic brand sense new change every 3 k miles car still pulls like new and no blow by or smoke
We sold our 1989 Honda Accord at 225k miles. Mainly because I was tired of climbing into the trunk to change the fuel pump. (3 in 2 years). Wish I could have found a solid pump and kept it. That little four-banger ripped with no modifications!
I have an 06 TL and change it every 7k, when the light pops up. I use the recommended oil, new filter. No burn, no blow by, no problems. 229,000 miles.
That's great. It's nice to see people care about their cars I have an 07 ram 2500 tows everyday (mid range car transporter) 645k. oil changes every 5k. mobile 1 with 2 qt of Lucas oil stabilizer. Just did head gaskets, cylinders look amazing, no wear marks.
I am a hard headed old man as long as piston engines burn air and atomized gasoline I will change oil every 3000 miles. God has allowed me to still do it myself. I buy oil and filter at wally world. Valvoline
God gave introduced the founder of Amsoil to invent the first true 100% synthetic which handles 25.000 miles in pickups and 60.000 miles in heavy trucking. I'm doing excellent on 15.000 miles but can go way up to 25k on analysis.
I drive a 2014 F150 3.5 ecoboost with over 97k on it. I used to change my oil every 5k, but recently decided to go 3,500 instead. With the turbos running really hot with the combination the GDI, i'd rather be safe than sorry. Plus adding a catch can has helped pretty well thus far. I wanna run this truck as long as i can because it's paid off and i have zero plans on purchasing any new vehicle any time soon. As for oil brands... i use either Valvoline Max life HM or Pennzoil ultra platinum. MY truck has been running so much smoother and quieter(the last 25k miles) than the Motorcraft the dealer used with free oil changes while it was still under warranty.
Your eco boost is second gen I believe, which is dual injection, port and direct, so no worry about carbon build up like the 1st gen with direct injection only. Although i know guys around me with the first gen with no problems and over 160k.
I don't care what anyone says about full synthetic long intervals. Change it every 5,000 miles or 6mo, whichever comes sooner. And check your oil level regularly.
Agree. I work with roughly twenty guys who drive V8 pickup trucks. Some live five miles away, some ten, twenty, or, like myself, thirty miles away. We drive our trucks differently. Two guys Ben and Gino drive their trucks daily but always for very short trips multiple times a day. On the opposite side, I drive my truck on average once a week but for thirty miles or more at a time. Our environments are very different. I change my oil at six months, regardless of low miles. Ben and Gino wait until they hit 7,500 hundred which could take a year. Five thousand or six months is the best oil change interval if you care about your engine's internals.
For someone who only drives their car once or twice a week and less than 5000 miles per year, there is no reason to change the oil every 6 months. However, if someone drives their car 5 or more days a week, then 6 months is probably advisable for an oil change interval.
@@Mark-rw3kw The prob here, is that this person who only swaps once a year, proly checks the level once between changes.... They get a leak, and won't know it until the "severe engine dmg" light goes off (low oil pressure light).
@@tshackelton The amount of oil leaking or oil consumption is much more tied to the miles driven and the condition of the engine, as opposed to the number of calendar days that has elapsed. If someone has a car that leaks oil just sitting there with no miles driven, then it's hard to recommend anything other than getting a new car. The last 2 cars I have owned, one for 11 years, and the current one for 15 years, have never used ANY measurable amount of oil in-between oil changes based on dip stick readings, and certainly didn't leak any oil externally. I did all the oil changes myself using high quality oil. External oil leaks are a lot easier to notice than consumption due to oil burning, in most cases. I always, every time I drive, check the engine temp gauge, which is an indication of the both the lubrication system and the cooling system health. Many newer European cars don't even have dipsticks (even though some have dipstick tubes) and are required to have an engine oil level display in their electronic instrument cluster (which I believe issues a warning if the oil level is too low).
@@Mark-rw3kw Ok, replace leak with burn (new rings suck) then. I dunno who you hang out with, but a leak is a reason to top it off, not replace the vehicle.
The Engineer failed to mention . The primary cause of oil sheering out of grade is fuel dilution. What causes that? We've talked about it before, low tension piston rings and high pressure direct injection. Most gasoline truck moved from 5-6 quart sumps, to 7-8 quart sumps. The reason for this is that, the OEMs know the oil will shear out of grade, the more oil in the pan, the better chance they have to make to to 7500 miles. Which BTW is all you'll get out of most modren oil life monitors. Not 10k.
@terrencejones9817.....The main reasons for higher sump capacity is "HEAT"! 40 PERCENT of the engine is cooled by the oil, such as PISTONS, RODS, CRANKSHAFTS, CAMSHAFTS ARE COOLED by OIL! More oil in the SUMP allows for more cooling!
I've argued with my nephew about fuel dilution and 3000 mile intervals. I'm oil school, every 3000 miles! I haven't had an oil burner in 30 years! Last three cars, 92,000 miles (Ford piece of _hit) 210,000 miles , 160,000 miles. Not a drop! My nephew even admitted his Subaru doesn't start burning a quart of oil until he hits 4000 miles. He thinks that's okay. I told it's happening because your oil in becoming diluted and you are running that diluted oil through your engine at that point. Not good to say the least.
If the extended changes are so great on the engine why would one have to buy a engine oil restore to clean it up. It is because extended changes start to build up sludge and varnish in the engine.
You wouldn’t. That’s the interesting dilemma. Sludge is very rare UNLESS you have an actual engine problem, and if that’s the case oil change intervals are the least of your problems. Sludge is a byproduct of something bad going on with your engine, and it’s not the interval unless we’re talking about someone going 3 years and 50,000 miles (down 2 quarts without a care). Carbon will occur whether you change it frequently or not, it’s a byproduct of combustion and will build on piston lands and skirts. Varnish is meaningless and harmless. Restore and Protect is claiming to clean this (and carbon). It’s marketing. We all want “clean” and “the best”. Valvoline is taking advantage of things we want, and claiming they can give it to us. They are marketing geniuses and have always been. Mobil1 has made similar claims of cleaning potential, but they didn’t do a great job promoting it. There are many others as well. I think we will now see more oil companies follow suit with what Valvoline is doing because it’s working, people are now talking about Valvoline again.
@@timothykeith1367 I don’t change oil based on color, but I do absolutely think the number one killer of engine oil is FUEL. Fuel dilution destroys oil and the engine if it gets bad enough.
Great video! Old philosophies about oil and change intervals have changed along with the engines themselves. Jason is spot on about modern oils and their requirements. Direct injection, tighter tolerances and coatings due to the goal of better mileage and lesser emmisions has caused oil manufacturers to step up their game. This new Restore product from Valvoline is the real deal, and is based on an earlier product that Valvoline developed for diesels. Lake Speed Jr. Is another expert in oil and piston ring technology (Total Seal) that has great videos on this subject. The tests of Restore and Protect not only removed carbon buildup from ring lands that plagued many GM LS engines that caused smoking and oil consumption, but removed varnish in the heads and valvespring areas too. The days of a summer and winter oil are long gone, replaced by way better engineering. My Detroit Diesel powered dump truck runs with 5w 30 oil much like modern pickups which would have been unheard of just a few years ago. The most important thing both in the past and now is to still have regular oil changes with quality oil and filters, both of which are still much cheaper than an engine overhaul or replacement.
Not to mention as engines get miles on them, tolerances will increase, which means it's usually a good idea to run slightly thicker oil. Once my classic car hits around 100,000 miles I'll be having it overhauled and switching from 10w30 to 20w50 high zinc.
@@fredf.5901 So how's it doing now? Has it Quieted down any? With "79% stronger anti-wear protection than industry standards (vs. GF-6 qualified oil)" I'd hope after it's used a couple trips... That it'd coat/clean at least a little bit. I've read/seen R&P reviews that had suggested it (R&P) was doing better then the previous Oil Fill with Engine Noise,Feel, and/or various Performance variables... Not saying it is a Miracle Oil that eliminates whatever problem(s) you're experiencing, but that it is doing better then "other" oils. For example... My last Pennzoil Oil Change (Full Synthetic, not a Dexos1 rated Oil). Claimed like "40% better performance than conventional oil*"... Could mean a wide variety of things but it (Pennzoil Full Synthetic) does claim/warranty 10,000 mile interval* ....
Very good information here. That's why I like Toyota, since Toyota uses port and direct injection together. This Valvoline "Restore and Protect" additive package seems like a pretty good idea. Thanks Valvoline Oil! Thanks Tim from coming up with this excellent video, bringing a Valvoline representative into the video!!!
I have a Chrysler 200 (3.6L Pentastar V6) as a former daily driver that I've driven from around 15k miles to well over 200k miles. I've always followed the oil change reminder, which usually ended up around 7,500 miles (which I believe is the highest the computer will let it go) and used synthetic oil. After almost 250k miles of use, it doesn't consume or leak any oil, the used oil looks and smells fine, and the engine is smooth and quiet just like when I bought it all those years ago. It has never skipped a beat, and I can tell it has a ton of life left. My newer daily driver, currently around 50k miles, also has a Pentastar 3.6L (why mess with success?) and the oil change reminder tends to go to nearly 10k miles. It knows the conditions in which the engine is operating and adjusts the interval accordingly, my other Pentastar proved itself honest--I trust it. Maybe if I had a complicated tiny turbocharged 200hp/L DI engine (which I intentionally avoid) I'd be less confident, but on an ol' simple, proven workhorse of an engine, I'm not worried one bit. Every 3k would just be a waste of my time.
there is no substitute for frequent oil changes, I don't care what brand of oil or what kind of genies they put in the bottle. Every vehicle has different sets of operating conditions and oils are made for an average set of conditions. You ask professional mechanics and they will not recommend the lengthy oil change intervals. Nothing tops a fresh plentiful quantity of oil.
If you put the wrong specification of oil into a D.I. engine, you'll blow chunks of the piston/rings into the oil pan. Be careful about that "genie in a bottle" phrase.
Been changing my oil and filter every 10k, without issues. Always used Mobil 1 performance synthetic, including their 10k mile filter. The first time I had to do a valve cover job, which involves removing the whole top end of the engine. Everything was clean as can be. No sludge, no oil caking, no soot. Engine was very clean, for 175k miles.
What we all need to get through our heads, is that CAFE has their fingers in every aspect of automotive maintenance and OEM recommendations. MR Valvoline sales guy touched on CAFE regarding oil weight. And what he said is accurate. But CAFE is also responsible for the ever increasing oil change intervals as well. In no situation is a 10k oil change better than a shorter interval! The fact that they found necessity and market value in even creating a product such as Restore and Protect is proof alone that todays oil change intervals are not doing good things for our engines.
The 10K mile oil change interval came from EU regulations that deal with their concern for the disposal of used motor oil and filters, as well as the generally much higher cost of motor oil (and gasoline) in the EU. The 10K interval is not related to USA CAFE regulations, which deal with MPG. CAFE has greatly influenced the current trend of low viscosity motor oils, especially from Toyota and Honda.
@@Mark-rw3kw Better go research more on that one. CAFE absolutely has a ton to do with current manufacturers OCI intervals. A big part of CAFE is cost of ownership. By stretching out OCI’s and every other service. A manufacturer can claim a lower cost of ownership. Which in turn nets them CAFE points with the GOV.
@@1967friend I was not aware of any points for OCI, but CAFE stands for Corporate Average Fuel Economy, and each auto manufacturer has to pay penalties if their average MPG exceeds a certain number (irrespective of OCI). I searched another oil forum, and several people did research on this claim (OCI is related to CAFE), and found it to be completely baseless. But maybe they are wrong, but you need to provide some source for your claim.
@@brianmaloney5430 ......AMSOIL INC. has Many Tribologists and Chemists that have designed Engine oils that go beyond 10,ooo miles. There first Synthetic designed in the 90's and put on the market in 1972 was designed to go one year or 25,000 miles which ever came first, and they are sill on the market today! Engine oils can be developed for a "PRICE POINT", or long term, it just depends on how much the oil manufacturer wants to put into the oil, dollar wise.
My Toyota RAV4 Owner Manual States: "An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions." "Better Suited" pretty much says what they are recommending (0W-16) is not really good enough.
Look at the owners manual outside of N. America (US/Canada) and you'll see they will mention a range of viscosities that can be used, whereas in the U.S. they will just mention one. Since noticing that I'm now ignoring that part of the manual.
Tim good show for some reason. I am an oil geek myself. I love to research motor oil recently last week. I switched my brands that I’ve used for 30 years to Valvoline protect and restore. I’m testing it in my Ford 302 in my research includes lake Speed Junior, which also did a segment on this oil, also with a guy from Valvoline They also run it on a dino doing horsepower test different weights things of that nature. It’s really what made me switch again as Jason said switching weights maybe from a 5:20 to a 530 might not hurt but you don’t wanna go to far because today’s modern rings are much thinner and have less tension and heavier oil needs more tension on the piston rings, so don’t blow by most people think heavier oil better so won’t get by. Not true as far as my research shows again just my personal thoughts everybody has a different thought.
All of us engine builders could have told you that! Every engine teardown on thicker oil has much less wear than those guys that use thinner oil believing they go faster:)
I’m 1500 miles into my first use of vr&p so far the oil is still clean but the engine has been quieter and smoother running from the first start. I don’t expect to get much cleaning done as it’s well maintained,I’m going to give it 3-6 oil changes and see how it goes then probably go back to Kirkland.
On my new 97 Dodge Cummins I switched to Amsoil 15w40 diesel at 10k miles, added the double bypass system, changed primary filter every 6k, bypass filter every 12k, oil at 25k. At 300k we pulled the valve cover and was SHOCKED to see the valve train looked like the day it came out of factory, seriously, it was that clean. that truck is still on the road at 500k. The body is rusted beyond repair but it's still running.
"The body is rusted beyond repair but it's still running" Add in a cracked dashboard and constant ball joint failure and you have the average second gen
I can change my oil myself for $40. I target 5k miles or once a year. Cheap insurance to keep the inside clean and functioning properly. As for thin oil like 0W-20, I prefer more protection over a slight higher mpg. I prefer 0W-30 or 5W-30.
@@LexusGX460-OFF-ROAD Wish car would you buy, one with 5k or 10k oil changes? I car is not just transportation to me. My Civic is just fine but my Corvette is special. I service them the same way. You say waste but I say my cars are better cared for. Best wishes.
Thicker doesn't mean better. Modern synthetic oil, even 0W16, provides better lubricity, thermal tolerance and wear protection than 10W30 conventional oil. And it goes without saying on a 0 degree morning 0W16 will flow many times easier and build oil pressure almost instantly compared to 10W30 or even 5W30.
Thats what I hoot for unless I’m on manufacturer schedule but switch to this interval when paid scheduled maintenance ends and I do. Always use rated oil weights and Mobil 1 with filter runs me @$35-$40 at walmart
I tried to tow a U-Haul trailer loaded with furniture out of the Carolina's one time with my Chevy pickup running Castrol 10w30 and almost burned up my engine had it not been for having a new bottle of STP behind the seat to put in my old 305 that had a 4 speed stick tranny. The oil pressure was dropping like a rock and the engine heat gauge was climbing. The STP stopped it cold. From there on out I ran a 10-40-04 a 15w40 diesel oil when towing. Problem solved . Run a heavier grade oil when towing or working the guts out of a motor.
so shake it up. It isn't like it leaked out on your garage floor/ or melted the container. It isn't whole blood plasma you're injecting in you are folks. It is an oil change. I do mine every 3,000km by myself. it's a cheap ain't item. Well. Do what you want to do, and so will I. Happy Happy eh?
Carbon on pistons/combustion chambers verses intake valves, as per your guest, are two separate issues, largely unrelated. Restore and Protect can help minimize the valve buildup some, but port injection is still a very good way to help as well - that is pretty much what the Valvoline engineer said.
Annual top cylinder soaks are the oil-nerd thing to do. Can't hurt when you change the oil immediately afterwards. An inspection camera in a cell phone can't see coked rings. I'll add solvent multiple times in a weekend and the motor will smoke a few seconds on start-up.
@@timothykeith1367 That's why I still have my old port-injection auto, and will only buy a new car that has both port injection and GDI. On engines with both port injection and GDI, the port injection typically runs when idling to do cleaning.
Subaru says "if the engine consistently fails to reach operating temperature within 10-15 minutes of driving, it may be considered as short trips." Short trips means "severe service", means 3k oil changes. They also specify a 6 month interval regardless of mileage.
They are 100% right! Do to condensate contamination. My work is only a couple of miles away. I proved this to myself with water in my oil. Synthetic oil gets contaminated like anything else. My vehicle doesn’t make to 3k and I change the oil. I do mine twice a year. Only drive about 5k a year.
The best move I ever made with my 2014 FB25 Subaru was changing from the recommended 0w20 oils to 0w30 pennzoil platinum euro. I used to burn a quart every 1000 miles, now it only consumes an extra quart and a half, so even though 0w30 costs more it saves me money because I don’t have to buy 4 quarts between oil changes. I thought my MPG would go down but it’s still around 27. I actually think my mpg is better on the highway.
@@Davido50 Not sure where you're getting your misinformation. Our 2020 Forester has 53k miles on it and it still uses about half a quart in 5,000 miles. What's wrong with that?
Because car manufacturers keep specifying thinner and thinner oil to improve gas mileage. Plus most engines are going to 4-cylinder Turbo now, which is a killer on engine longevity. Toyota specifies 0W-16 motor oil on most new cars, and even 0W-08 on some of their vehicles, all to improve gas mileage.
Originally my current engine spec’d 5w-30. Now they recommend 0w-20. Knowing that the clearances are the same, the 5w-30 will be fine to use if you prefer long engine life over economy. That said, my engine is also showing manufacturing tolerance outliers where the rocker needle bearings seize up so I’m thinking a higher HTHS may be prudent to at least delay the potentially inevitable. With that, I’ve gone to a Euro spec API SP rated 5w-40. If the heat at that component isn’t that high, it will not reach that viscosity. I chose this direction over 1 mpg. My engine is not DI, but with possible DI and forced induction and the fuel dilution that comes with each, it also may not be a bad idea to look into a slightly higher viscosity to basically get a head start. I think with this small step up in viscosity, you won’t run into startup wear or loss of oil control with the oil being too thick for the piston rings to control.
With new engines having turbos, you change oil to protect the turbo. Even the best oils get destroyed by the shear forces in a turbo. Non-turbo can go more than double the mileage with well formulated oils.
1993 Jeep Cherokee XJ Sport (158k), 2003 F150 XLT 4x4 (218k), 2018 Toyota Carmy (88k). All three get regular oil changes at or slightly before 5,000 miles. No synthetics. No exceptions.
I guess it’s all about how comfortable you are with oil change intervals…..you’re not going to any harm to your engine by changing your oil sooner rather than later…..if you sleep better at 5k intervals then fine….I’m staying with 5k intervals….I’m sure Valvoline will appreciate the business…
I will not go over 3k between oil changes no matter who says different. These 5 and 10k oil changes were created for manufacturers to claim lower cost of ownership BS. I’ve never in 40 years had an engine failure. Good quality engine + 3k oil changes = very long life engine.
@@willg.5168 Obviously, you mean a "Top Tier" rated brand of gas. Top tier includes a lot of brands other than the major oil companies, but should be labeled as such on the pump or at the Top Tier website.
I'm going to use Valvoline restore and protect next change. My 06 CVPI calls for 5w20 but my plan was to switch to 5w30. You see any issue w that or any benefit. Car has 258k miles and runs great not rebuilt.
I don’t care how advanced the oil is. Does it purge all the dirt, carbon, fuel and impurities from the oil besides the filter doing so much? Nope. I’ll stick to shorter intervals.
Change every 3000 miles. Good oil. Decent filter. Treat to a fuel treatment at same time. Every 3rd change of oil maybe use a flush especially if older engine.
Toyota’s marketing team asked the engineers how long the engines can safely go between changes. The engineers said we want 5,000 but it will go 10,000. If you watch “the car care nut” he proves that going 10,000 in these engines they will need rings in 250,000 miles vs. 400,000 if done at 5,000. Toyota doesn’t even recommend changing it after break in. Remember the longer the car lasts the less new cars they sell!
If you cut their recommended oil change interval in half, over the life of the vehicle what are you saving? Maybe a $1000? Doesn't seem too expensive long term for the potential problems you might avoid.
Im fine with thinner oil on trucks and cars that dont ever get the rpm over 4k. But what about performance oriented vehicles? I have a 2024 GR Corolla that pushing 25 psi of boost and oil analysis showed a big difference in wear between 0W20 and 5W30. The wear dropped by double when using 5W30 and oil pressure barley even went up. So im confused in terms of high performance vehicles and why using thin oil might not be so good on turbocharge or supercharge vehicles.
I think like mentioned OEMs often prioritize fuel economy when determining oil specifications. But like he said sometimes they also specify a heavier weight for circumstances where higher loads or heat occur. I don’t think there is anything mentioned about that for the GRC but Ford does for their Mustang (I think going from 5w30 to 5 or 15w50 for track use). Probably not a bad idea to use that if you’re okay with the fuel economy hit (likely less than 1mpg anyways).
@@ALMX5DPThe fuel economy hit has only been about .5 mpg and the car already gets 28 mpg so im fine with that. Its just annoying that they use scare tactics saying that you have to uses this oil and nothing else or your engine will explode.
So excluding mall crawlers, anyone that uses their truck as a truck should run a higher viscosity. (at 4-7 min) For example, coyote mustang use 5-30, but PP & Boss use 5-50.
How about 3,333 Mile oil change interval. Also very easy to remember no matter where you are. This is what I’m doing until I do oil analysis with restore and protect on my 2024 Camry hybrid. Motor on and off can be severe use. So I will see how it works after I’m done with break in …
Have a 2019 f150 3.5. It had a slight ticking/ knocking while running. I thought it was just a sound barrier thing. 68,000 miles in, changed my oil to restore and protect, and it went away on the first start and hasn'tcome back in 1000 miles. I assume that's good. Side note on the newer f150's (not sure on year) after an oil change, before the 1st start; Key: Press the accelerator to the floor and turn the key. the engine will prime without starting, and you may need to do it twice to get the oil pressure guage to read good. Push start: same as above only press brake and accelerator then press start(not hold). The process is automatic and will end on its own after a few seconds.
Great information! Took me along time to get away from VALVOLINE 50wt racing oil in my performance engines, as well as my street engines! Bigger use to be better! Right! Trying to figure out when to use high mileage oil.
In Canada provincial highway maintenance trucks from 6 cylinder 4.3 to cat engines to graders loaders crawlers use 15x40 oil every 300 hours on diesels and 100 hours on gas pots the 4.3 GM motors last 600.00 KM and more , but it takes 3 transmissions 4 fuel pumps 1 rear end , but by then the rest of the truck is rotten .
I do not use mileage as an indicator of when to change oil.. I use an hour meter that I installed. I change oil and filter every 50 hrs.. thats approximately 2000 miles at an average speed of 40mph of driving.. is approximately 50 hrs of engine operation..
After doing some research, I find your comment to be true which was surprising to me. Cafe standards usually are for fuel economy, but the disposal of fossil fuels has an impact on the environment and they do get credits for lengthening the oil change interval. That's really not a good thing in this situation. Thanks for surfacing that point!
@@mikesawyer1336 I love trees too. They provide life-giving oxygen, without which we wouldn't be able to live, but most EPA bureaucrats don't know squat about cars and act like they HATE cars, so how can you listen to them about how to maintain a car? That's like asking a plummer how to perform Open-Heart surgery.
Sludge buildup is from low rpm low run time.i work as a marine tech and have never had a block come in covered in sludge.some are running garbage Walmart cheap oil yet clean as a whistle.my 2003 f350 gas motor i tow a good amount and always running high rpms and can't remember the last time i changed the oil.but i put a scope down the valve cover and its still decent looking.
Folks THINK!!!! Thin oil is about CAFE numbers. 10k OC is marketing low maintenance costs. It will make it past warranty. New Zealand specs on my 4rnr is 5w-30 and 5w-40 sever service. EPA governs policy here. 5k OC 5w-30 on 4rnr and 5w-40 on f250 6.2l because it toqs 12k during shredding season. So do your homework and you decide what works for you, not the dealer or government.
Best recomendations: Change your engine oil every 5,000 miles or six months…AND, change your Washington politicians every 8 and 12 years. Term limits Constitutional Amendment is absolutely needed.
My father have a 2012 Camry and he was doing as mentioned in the onwers manuak 10k oil changes. Now at 250,000 miles the engine has an oil consumption issue.
@Pickuptrucktalk yes it was worsened by keeping the oil.10k After some digging we found that the engine oil because of the hot weather and humid environmet needs to be changed every 5k for that car. Right now, consuming almost 1qt per week is quite severe. I have a Nissan, which I change the oil every 5k per owners manual, and we could see at worst half a quart of oil lost at 5k, which is fine and is not always it happens sometimes.
I will say have only used Valvoline in my two 2013 accord lx's. One has 203k, the other 177k, and absolutely ABUSE the 177k car, wife drives the 202k car. Both run like new, I do change CVT every 30k as well.. I am completely shocked the CVTs have lasted this long. All highway, 90mi round-trip commute 5 days per week. I dont stop when I leave my driveway until I exit interstate at my work exit. 34min avg travel time one way. I consistently run 100mph or greater in stretches.. CVT is quite responsive and fun at high speeds. Cars will do in excess of 130mph, afraid to push any higher due to tire ratings..
People complain about oil change cost. I told friends you need to change every six months and said i cant afford. Two loss their engines after less than 50,000 to 80,,000 miles all city driving in texas heat. Engine cost up too 5,000 dollars very expensive to compared too 720 dollars for 16 oil change cost., the oil change indicator will destroy your engine. My Honda says change oil 7500 miles i am retired so dont drive many miles. No oil change place will not put in your own oil.
I've been rebuilding and running gas and diesel engines for over half century. It depends on the quality of fuel you use, maintenance overal and the environment you run in. In city, long runs, dirty environment. My advice is no more than 5kfor gas and 15k on diesel.
After listening to Lake Speed Jr., I’m dropping from 5K to 3K immediately. Always felt these longer oil changes were bs but never knew what that guy knows. Oil changes are cheap.
It’s $50 for an oil change. Why push it to the max with a 10k change?? These are max intervals that you see in the owners manual. I don’t understood the mindset of people spending 50K plus on a vehicle and then try to save a nickel by maxing out your oil interval.
Despite all the hype, what they don't tell you is that your local repair shops don't really carry it and won't back it up. I had to buy my own... to get my local shop to put it in, and they wouldn't back it. On the receipt, they put "no warranty" (meaning they wouldn't back it). If you have a vehicle with warranty coverage that requires documentation of regular oil changes...and you want to use this oil, it will be a hassle finding shops that carry it. I'm in St. Louis and I couldn't find any shop that carries this oil.
Notice he said the direct injection is a separate issue from piston carbon buildup. Also some manufacturers are worse about carbon build up on the valves then others .. probably depending on if they have port injection or not.
@@rockkstah2550 Hyundai is moving in that direction also with their Smart Stream engines. But the Hyundai engines use one injector to do both GDI and FI. Early Hyundai GDI engines were notorious for carbon buildup on intake valves.
@@PhaseSkater I don’t know if that engine has Hyundai smartstream technology or not, but it is not like carbon buildup will cause engine failure and it can be treated (although a dealer would charge several hundred dollars at least). The oil change frequency is not really related to GDI carbon buildup, but I would change the oil more frequently than 10K miles and use a full synthetic oil.
I change oil and rotate tires every 5,000 miles, I figure oil is cheap enough and if I'm doing a little extra then hopefully my engine will last a little longer and it just helps me keep up with the tire maintenance also.
I came here for the comment from the "expert" backyard mechanics. "Back in 1968 when everything was made better and we used oil straight out the ground....." 😂
@@1gr8oil Yeah exactly, their driving habits or location falls under severe duty but they stretch out their OCI and wonder why they have problems down the road.
Most expert mechanics will all tell you no on the 7500 and 10000 mile oil changes. They have seen the inside of the newer engines and failers from the extended intervals
Public school education... scientists analyze oil and engine wear NOT stealership quick-lube techs. Scientists do the actual, factual testing. Billy-Bob the mechanic has zero clue what oxidation is or means.
Not a engineer a tribologist. You do realize that the oems receive café credit for promoting longer oil changes. There are many master mechanics that see the oil sludging up in modern engines that push for 7500 and 10k oil changes. Also they have seen the low tension piston rings get stuck do to extended oil changes. When this happens the engine starts burning oil. You do realize the valvoline engineer never said it's ok to 10k miles. What about the lifetime tranny fluid gm and ford push? Many people who believe this have tranny failer between 80k and 120k miles.
@@LexusGX460-OFF-ROADyou don't need to be a scientist or engineer to know what sludge and varnish buildup looks like. Perhaps the engineers need to pull apart some engines that have been serviced at their recommended intervals so they can see for themselves.
Dave's Auto Center on the internet rebuilds engines and sees a lot of destruction by owners following their manufacturers recommendations for oil changes of 10,000 miles. He says cut the number in half of the manufacturer's recommendations. I have had great luck with changing oil and filter every 3000 miles and will continue to do so.
I change oil in my vehicles twice a year, spring and fall, regardless of miles. I've been doing that for decades. They have over 200k, 300k miles on original drivetrain. Also, I change fluids in transmission and differentials evey 5,000 miles.
You obviously do highway driving which is much easier on oil than short drives which results in more raw fuel in the oil and less moisture burn off. Can you say sludge?
Is there any advantage to running Restore and Protect in a new car? I:m using it in my 2023 w/only 6,600 miles on it. My original intent was to "keep it clean" but wonder if the protection it iffers is any better than other synthetic oils?
@@1FiftyOverland what’s interesting to me is everyone has a number. Scroll through the comments. Some are 3k, some 5k and your 4K. This doesn’t take into account all the vehicles that go 10k. Really interesting to me to see the disparity.
Not only the various hydraulic systems, but the new breed to lighter rings don't like heavy oil at all. The rings need to scrape the oil off the cylinder walls and control how much is remaining. Too heavy a grade will leave too much behind to burn, causing a lean condition.
Oil consumption doesn't cause a lean condition, it causes you to have to add oil between changes, causes carbon build up, and can cause you to fail a smog check.
Been an Auto and Diesel tech for 34yrs. I noticed when you go 10k miles on an oil change per manufacturer suggested intervals the engines have more problems than engines that have oil changes at half the suggested miles. There’s engineered in a lab results, then there’s realistic results. I’ll stick with what’s realistic 👍🏻
@@Brocephus77 even less around 3,000 MI in -30c or lower temps. Northern Alberta Canada. It's a lot of moisture going into the crankcase, also had to start it every few hours at work you can tell on the oil fill cap it's always milky LOL
I been working as a dealer technician for years. I respect your opinion and I am not a oil expert or an engineer. But what I do know is what I see on a daily basis coming in my busy shop. I see ALOT of 10k mile oil changes coming in. But I also see alot of premature engine failure and high amounts of engine sludge and a host of engine issues with these 10k mile oil change interval customers.
To be fair I also see a lot less engine issues with vehicles that maintain a 5000 mile or 6 months whichever comes first oil change interval.
Excellent Information
3k mi change and I'll keep the change on the repairs.
10,000 city miles would build up sludge as opposed to 10,000 hwy/open road miles
When I was a kid... 9000 years ago, my dad changed the oil in our cars religiously in the Fall and in the Spring. That was the routine.
This is why I love this channel, Tim brings in engineers/experts to explain what is going on.
Agree, It isn't "my buddy said...". He actually brings in experts and talks with them and gets actual information.
Yes. Instead of interviewing an hourly "quick lube dealer technician" we have an actual engineer here... amazing how the masses put more faith in a stealership quick line tech
There’s just one problem, maybe two. Only 3 companies make base oil. Only 4 companies make additive packages. None of them say Valvoline on the label.
@@flyingjeff1984 Hmm, BP, Shell, Exxon/Mobil, and Texaco?
@@flyingjeff1984there are more than 3 companies that produce Base Oils. Since these can be produced at every refinery, the supply is plentiful (unless you go for exotic base oils like PAO, GTL or Ester but even PAO are produced in some refineries). But the additive manufacturers are indeed very limited. There's only a demand for little quantities (compared to base oils) with highly specialized processes.
Oil/filter change costs me ~$50. I have absolutely zero problem doing it every 3k miles or so. One thing for sure, my engine is staying nice and clean inside. It's a very small price to pay to ensure long life for my engine. You guys that wanna go 10k miles, be my guest, but I don't want to buy your used vehicle.
But someone else will. No one cares whether the previous owner threw their money away on 3k oil changes.
@@OtisFlint People who meticulously maintains their vehicle usually don't sell 'em.
My neighbor does only 2 oil changes during his 3yr lease. The first free one at the dealership and one right before turn in . He states whoever buy this after me better get an extended warranty because they gonna need it .😊
I change ours every 4K-5K miles, full synthetic
The days of changing oil every 3K miles was when additive technology was beginning. Today oils like Mobile 1, Schaffer, Amsoil all do fine up to 10K. Have done this on a 345K mile Tundra. When changing oil comes out slightly darker then put in. Wasting your money changing that soon, not a race car!
Every 3,000 is my best on my 05 mdx 245,000 miles 😊😊😊😊no leaks, no burning of oil 😊
I had 698, 714 KM on a '91 VW Jetta Turbodiesel, changed oil/filter at VW recommended 8000KM intervals. I had no leaks, no burning oil, and the engine was still running great when an a-hole running a Red light destroyed the car. Best car i ever had, same clutch, trans/differential, same axle shafts. I put roughly 1100-1200KM weekly on it. 8000KM converts to about 4971 miles.
My 05 F150 4wd has 267k mis ..good basic maintenance for the win! 5k mi OCI full synthetic always. Top Tier rated fuels.
And 2,000 is better than 3,000 so there
@@jackchueh1231 - I know right? I if the logic "oil changes are cheaper than engines" is the answer to everything, you can't be too careful so maybe 1,500 OCI is what we should be doing. Seriously though I drive old cars that are new enough to run clean and efficient and have very short timing chains. No cam phasers and such. I know, I know I'm an old geezer. But if you have long complex timing chains and depend on the additives for hydraulic function for all I know 3k OCI is better. But that's one of the reasons I don't run engines like that. They're too high maintenance. IMO it defeats the purpose of cheap transportation to begin with. I get 29mpg on the highway and about 20 in my local commute it's good enough for me.
Wrenching with Kenny replaced a stretched timing chain on a GM ecotec with 211,000 miles. It appeared to be maintained well and the owner said the OCI was 5k. Maybe the owner was fudging a bit, I don't know. But the conclusion of Kenny was that the timing chain wouldn't have stretched if the change interval was 3k. But I wonder about that. But again, IMO justing having a long timing chain is a problem to begin with. It is going to be the weak point of the engine.
As a 24-year synthetic lubricants dealer, people don't understand and I don't blame them because they don't know, the vast majority of synthetic oils on the market today the base oil is still made from crude oil. look up the term hydrocracking. Castrol brought that into existence many many years ago and the term "synthetic" has been redefined. you very well may be buying a synthetic oil but it's still a crude base mineral oil and not a chemically synthesized synthetic as it used to be known. Now that being said it is a huge improvement over conventional mineral oil it's heavily refined it's Hydro cracked which means it goes through a process that breaks down or splits the molecular structure of the oil to make it more uniform. The best way to describe that would be if you look at oil on a molecular level crude oil has very irregular shapes and sizes, they are trying to roll over one another similar to a bowl of marbles but if you're using a truly synthesized synthetic it's chemical made all the molecules are exactly the same size that's why a true class 4 synthetic oil reduces friction. The term "fully" synthetic means nothing, it's a marketing term also don't waste your money on a synthetic blend because there's no industry standard that regulates the blending ratio so you literally could buy a qt of blend and get a tablespoon of synthetic stock and be paying more for no advantage. I never recommend a synthetic blend either stick with a good quality mineral based oil or go with a higher end TRUE synthetic. if you look at the classifications of oil there's class one, two, three, four, five class. one and two is a mineral base conventional oil the only thing that separates those is the level of refinement. it's similar to diesel fuel and kerosene, diesel fuel is dirtier than kerosene basically the same but one's cleaner more refined. class 3 is a hydro cracked also known as a pseudo synthetic oil that's the majority of what's on the market and you can always tell based upon cost and then class four is a chemically synthesized hydrocarbon oil not manufactured from crude by the time you reach the fifth category that is a high-end Esther typically you don't ever find a engine oil made from Esters they are super rare, but they are used as additives in "True" synthetic oil. There's absolutely no problem with doing extended oil changes but there's a number of factors that go into it. I am not only a 24-year veteran of being a lubricant dealer but I've been a mechanic for 40 years and a fleet manager for 20 years. if you're doing extended drains only do them when you're using quality filtration including bypass filtration and oil analysis that way you're taking any risk or guesswork out of the equation. Oil drain intervals very greatly even using the same oil. I have ran vehicles 25k miles using oil analysis and the oil is still perfectly good. sometimes you run the oil do a sample they may tell you to change the filter and top it off the oil still good for continued use. I've also ran the same oil in engines instead of getting 25k out of it it may be completely trashed at 12k depends on the engine and the drivers application. So to give you a blanket drain interval if you're doing extended drains is not a good idea that's why I always recommend people do oil analysis and just in case you're not familiar with oil analysis it goes far beyond just telling you if the engine oil is good or bad. I have diagnosed many engine problems using all analysis looking at the wear Metals in the oil, fuel dilution, coolant contamination Etc. it gives you basically the same equivalent of doing blood work on your body. I am a advocate for extended drains over the long term it does reduce cost and environmental waste also downtime if you have a fleet. Now that being said if you're an average guy and you don't want to mess with doing all that then just change your oil and filter using quality products that you've researched and have confidence in not marketing but do you research and change it when the manufacturer recommends or at least when you feel comfortable.
@TheHillrat4wd........I Had a 1994 Dodge/Cummins powered, that I used AMSOIL 15w-40 100 PERCENT synthetic, and a bypass oil filter system for 10 years and 155 thousand miles, using "OIL ANALYSIS" every 12 K miles,and the oil was NEVER drained, just added added oil when needed, which wasn't very often! "OIL ANALYSIS results always came back indicating oil was good for "CONTINUED USE"!
@@1gr8oil thank you for sharing that is my point
UOA are the best way to know oil life good or bad. I run a bypass as well on 03 7.3L PS changing every 5K.miles.
This bastardization of the definition of synthetic oil is why I stopped using Castrol oil.
@@1gr8oilWow. Thanks
Oil doesn't remove contaminants from an engine until you remove the contaminated oil from the engine. You're not changing the oil at 3k miles because the oil is bad, you're changing it to remove the contaminated oil from the engine. Or you can keep the contaminated oil in your engine for 10k miles. It's up to you but I don't like running oil for 10k miles. Even if the oil is still technically good, I want to get the contaminants out sooner than later.
Bullshit !!!
Facts! Exactly
Dude.. Blackstone analysis stops the guessing
@@jackchueh1231 The price for an an oil change will cove the cost of an analysis.
Keep you oil clean, you can see that by looking at the dip stick.
A single drop of oil from the dip-stick onto a clean coffee filter paper ( done in timeMileage sequence)will show the relative dispersion of different time/ mileage sample drops of oil. Not science, but practical and a lot quicker and inexpensive.
Thanks for bringing on an industry professional to try and dispel all the social media hype. I still personally like 5k oil change intervals. I feel like I use my vehicles a bit more rigorously, and giving me a reason to crawl underneath the vehicle every 5k to look things over while the oil is draining.
5K is _feelings_ 10k is SCIENCE
5K is always better.
I do 5K or 12months since I don’t drive much
@@LexusGX460-OFF-ROADwatch the car care nut. He says 5K is always better
@@LexusGX460-OFF-ROAD really depends on the specific use and what an oil analysis says. In lieu of that I like to be extra conservative at the detriment to my wallet and also for my human condition for wanting a more regular inspection.
@@naveenthemachineAgain you are trusting a Quick-Lube technician over an ACTUAL engineer and actual scientists who conduct experiments.
As a 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder. Use a good synthetic oil change Every 5k miles and you will have zero problems!!
Inherited an oil
burner. 2.4L Toyota. Guys in Pont Vibe club all say the same thing. What ever temp measures we take, We’re simply putting off the inevitable. Engine rebuild or replacement. Your thoughts? Do piston soaks work? Or is there a great product/ procedure you have experience with? Thx
@@NormalhowaboutyouI'm a new Vibe 2.4l owner and just did my first oil change with standard synthetic. Trying to determine the rate of oil burn. Once I know, I plan on trying out the new on the market Valvoline restore and protect. I'll probably swap the oil filter after about 2000 miles, to see if it captured anything
Get some 5W-30 Valvoline Restore and Protect and do a few 3000?-5000 mile oil changes with that oil. You will be amazed. I have fixed oil burning on a bunch of Toyotas with this simple fix.
@@redlywaxer my 2009 calls for 5w20 but I'll be change it with that Valvoline clean/restore
@@redlywaxer ok thx
Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think I ever heard a word from the Vavoline engineer about going to 10,000 miles on an oil change interval. But I did pick up on the Restore and Protect infomercial format and the fact that lighter weight oils are more for epa milage figures than protecting your engine for the long term.
It is due to the additives in the oil.
When you start paying for my parts you can dictate my oil change interval until the I'm not going over 5k. Oil is cheaper then a engine. Also something you should ask the car manufacturer is the list of oils that a car can use because they may say use a 0w oil but the engine is build for a whole range of oils depending on your driving.
@@adamsmiths3016 Alright, sounds good. FWIW, it doesn't matter to me when you change your oil. I'm just sharing this interview for food for thought.
@@adamsmiths3016
Don’t conflate information as a demand. Live your life as you choose. The rest of us don’t care. Use the information or don’t. Your choice.
@@Pickuptrucktalk well why didn't you ask about 10k oil change intervals if the title of your video says that. Click bait much
If you talk to mechanics who are taking these things apart, they notice the longer oil change intervals are not helping with engine longevity. Those longer intervals are good enough to get you through most warranties. Now the dealerships are off the hook for warranty work. Work that could have been prevented through more frequent changes. Mechanics are the ones in the trenches seeing what comes in.
I've read by an auto engineer that the thinner oils are meant to improve mileage, but are only only worried about the engine through the warranty like you said. My car holds 8.8q and I still change it every 5k. I drive hard and an engine is $20k. $90 bucks twice a years is just fine with me.
Most mechanics will rarely take an egine appart. The ones that do will do it as a specialty. Meaning: you have a huge selection bias. You will never see the engines that keep on goining.
@@ApaX1981that's so true.. you should see Toyota tech freaking out cause they have to change short block by the dozen when they haven't had to change engine in years let alone rebuilt one. They literally butcher the whole truck cause they never did something like this in such a long time.. scratch paint.. cracked grills... you name it. As for my oil ... 0w20 since new on my ecotec 3. Amsoil signature series every 10k km... now at 230k km and no issue whatsoever yet. Keep in mind I'm in Northern Canada where its cold more than half the year. 0w20 is golden for here. Warm up quick .. cool down quick. 5w40. Is what they use to race those engine and heavy duty 6.6 l8t is on 5w30 from the oem and have the same exact bearing than the 6.2 or the 5.3 that are on 0w20. It's all about range of operation and bearing clearance. Thin oil clean better in my belief.
The Oil Geek says that the 10,000 mile range on todays oil has been pushed by the EPA ( government ) so as not to use or have to dispose of as much volume of oil. He suggested you stick with a 5000 mile range if you plan on keeping your car long term vs if you lease or going to trade your car every few years then go with the 10,000 mile according to the car manufacturer!
I’ve checked his claims. I can’t figure out where’s he is stating that information.
@@Pickuptrucktalkhe did a video with the guys from the valvoline engine test lab in Kentucky
@@danielbeiersr3642 he did. I saw that one as well.
@@Pickuptrucktalk
Watch his video carefully, and try to listen without prejudice.
Jasons and Lake Speed Jnr ( the oil geek ) tech info suits me fine. Interesting to see the extended range of oil products in the States more than here in Australia.
I worked in oil and gas in Louisiana for over a decade. Crude oil is 100% black. The oil sent to facilities that formulate the finished product is refined and clear.
He misspoke.
Yeah, nothing that eons old from way down in the earth is coming out clear like water! I knew that wasn't possible. And in oil fields all around the Derrick's is black oil.
I'm glad to see Valvoline come on and talk to the different YT personalities and not only talk about their product per the advertising, but also state the reason they are able to make the claims, but also show the proof to back it up. Far too often we hear a lot of ads and then some bragging etc., but there isn't any "proof" to their claims.
Well I have Honda accord with 355000 miles I ran 5 w 30 by Castrol magnetic brand sense new change every 3 k miles car still pulls like new and no blow by or smoke
We sold our 1989 Honda Accord at 225k miles. Mainly because I was tired of climbing into the trunk to change the fuel pump. (3 in 2 years). Wish I could have found a solid pump and kept it. That little four-banger ripped with no modifications!
I have an 06 TL and change it every 7k, when the light pops up. I use the recommended oil, new filter. No burn, no blow by, no problems. 229,000 miles.
That's great. It's nice to see people care about their cars I have an 07 ram 2500 tows everyday (mid range car transporter) 645k. oil changes every 5k. mobile 1 with 2 qt of Lucas oil stabilizer. Just did head gaskets, cylinders look amazing, no wear marks.
@@billkraemer4710 Did the same for my 08 TL. Ran great and used no oil (Mobil 1 always) for over 140,000 miles until my son totaled it. 🤣
@nhbountyhunter which motor is this out of curiosity?
I am a hard headed old man as long as piston engines burn air and atomized gasoline I will change oil every 3000 miles. God has allowed me to still do it myself. I buy oil and filter at wally world. Valvoline
God gave introduced the founder of Amsoil to invent the first true 100% synthetic which handles 25.000 miles in pickups and 60.000 miles in heavy trucking. I'm doing excellent on 15.000 miles but can go way up to 25k on analysis.
Same here.
I drive a 2014 F150 3.5 ecoboost with over 97k on it. I used to change my oil every 5k, but recently decided to go 3,500 instead. With the turbos running really hot with the combination the GDI, i'd rather be safe than sorry. Plus adding a catch can has helped pretty well thus far. I wanna run this truck as long as i can because it's paid off and i have zero plans on purchasing any new vehicle any time soon.
As for oil brands... i use either Valvoline Max life HM or Pennzoil ultra platinum. MY truck has been running so much smoother and quieter(the last 25k miles) than the Motorcraft the dealer used with free oil changes while it was still under warranty.
You run 5w30 or 0w40?
5W-30
@@bigpicturethinking5620 5W-30
Your eco boost is second gen I believe, which is dual injection, port and direct, so no worry about carbon build up like the 1st gen with direct injection only. Although i know guys around me with the first gen with no problems and over 160k.
@@ajmedeiros77 Unfortunately i'm still in the first Generation. The second Gen came out in 2017.
I don't care what anyone says about full synthetic long intervals. Change it every 5,000 miles or 6mo, whichever comes sooner. And check your oil level regularly.
Agree. I work with roughly twenty guys who drive V8 pickup trucks. Some live five miles away, some ten, twenty, or, like myself, thirty miles away. We drive our trucks differently. Two guys Ben and Gino drive their trucks daily but always for very short trips multiple times a day. On the opposite side, I drive my truck on average once a week but for thirty miles or more at a time. Our environments are very different. I change my oil at six months, regardless of low miles. Ben and Gino wait until they hit 7,500 hundred which could take a year. Five thousand or six months is the best oil change interval if you care about your engine's internals.
For someone who only drives their car once or twice a week and less than 5000 miles per year, there is no reason to change the oil every 6 months. However, if someone drives their car 5 or more days a week, then 6 months is probably advisable for an oil change interval.
@@Mark-rw3kw The prob here, is that this person who only swaps once a year, proly checks the level once between changes.... They get a leak, and won't know it until the "severe engine dmg" light goes off (low oil pressure light).
@@tshackelton The amount of oil leaking or oil consumption is much more tied to the miles driven and the condition of the engine, as opposed to the number of calendar days that has elapsed. If someone has a car that leaks oil just sitting there with no miles driven, then it's hard to recommend anything other than getting a new car. The last 2 cars I have owned, one for 11 years, and the current one for 15 years, have never used ANY measurable amount of oil in-between oil changes based on dip stick readings, and certainly didn't leak any oil externally. I did all the oil changes myself using high quality oil. External oil leaks are a lot easier to notice than consumption due to oil burning, in most cases. I always, every time I drive, check the engine temp gauge, which is an indication of the both the lubrication system and the cooling system health. Many newer European cars don't even have dipsticks (even though some have dipstick tubes) and are required to have an engine oil level display in their electronic instrument cluster (which I believe issues a warning if the oil level is too low).
@@Mark-rw3kw Ok, replace leak with burn (new rings suck) then. I dunno who you hang out with, but a leak is a reason to top it off, not replace the vehicle.
The Engineer failed to mention . The primary cause of oil sheering out of grade is fuel dilution. What causes that? We've talked about it before, low tension piston rings and high pressure direct injection.
Most gasoline truck moved from 5-6 quart sumps, to 7-8 quart sumps. The reason for this is that, the OEMs know the oil will shear out of grade, the more oil in the pan, the better chance they have to make to to 7500 miles. Which BTW is all you'll get out of most modren oil life monitors. Not 10k.
@terrencejones9817.....The main reasons for higher sump capacity is "HEAT"! 40 PERCENT of the engine is cooled by the oil, such as PISTONS, RODS, CRANKSHAFTS, CAMSHAFTS ARE COOLED by OIL! More oil in the SUMP allows for more cooling!
@@1gr8oil Piston oil squirter have been comon for 20 years now. It's not about cooling. It's about oil lubrication and oil consumption.
Toyota increased the quantity because it gave better cooling
I've argued with my nephew about fuel dilution and 3000 mile intervals. I'm oil school, every 3000 miles! I haven't had an oil burner in 30 years! Last three cars, 92,000 miles (Ford piece of _hit) 210,000 miles , 160,000 miles. Not a drop!
My nephew even admitted his Subaru doesn't start burning a quart of oil until he hits 4000 miles. He thinks that's okay. I told it's happening because your oil in becoming diluted and you are running that diluted oil through your engine at that point. Not good to say the least.
Great interview Tim. You get better access to engineer and technical folks than any journalist I know of on youtube.
If the extended changes are so great on the engine why would one have to buy a engine oil restore to clean it up. It is because extended changes start to build up sludge and varnish in the engine.
You wouldn’t. That’s the interesting dilemma. Sludge is very rare UNLESS you have an actual engine problem, and if that’s the case oil change intervals are the least of your problems. Sludge is a byproduct of something bad going on with your engine, and it’s not the interval unless we’re talking about someone going 3 years and 50,000 miles (down 2 quarts without a care). Carbon will occur whether you change it frequently or not, it’s a byproduct of combustion and will build on piston lands and skirts. Varnish is meaningless and harmless. Restore and Protect is claiming to clean this (and carbon). It’s marketing. We all want “clean” and “the best”. Valvoline is taking advantage of things we want, and claiming they can give it to us. They are marketing geniuses and have always been. Mobil1 has made similar claims of cleaning potential, but they didn’t do a great job promoting it. There are many others as well. I think we will now see more oil companies follow suit with what Valvoline is doing because it’s working, people are now talking about Valvoline again.
@@doublebase6509When the oil is dark black I change it. If it smells gassy there is an injector problem
@@timothykeith1367 I don’t change oil based on color, but I do absolutely think the number one killer of engine oil is FUEL. Fuel dilution destroys oil and the engine if it gets bad enough.
@doublebase6509 god how wrong you are
@@Daniel-qe8qeso mechanics that pull the engines apart with 10k oil changes and see sludge and varnish are wrong 😂
Great video! Old philosophies about oil and change intervals have changed along with the engines themselves. Jason is spot on about modern oils and their requirements. Direct injection, tighter tolerances and coatings due to the goal of better mileage and lesser emmisions has caused oil manufacturers to step up their game. This new Restore product from Valvoline is the real deal, and is based on an earlier product that Valvoline developed for diesels. Lake Speed Jr. Is another expert in oil and piston ring technology (Total Seal) that has great videos on this subject. The tests of Restore and Protect not only removed carbon buildup from ring lands that plagued many GM LS engines that caused smoking and oil consumption, but removed varnish in the heads and valvespring areas too. The days of a summer and winter oil are long gone, replaced by way better engineering. My Detroit Diesel powered dump truck runs with 5w 30 oil much like modern pickups which would have been unheard of just a few years ago. The most important thing both in the past and now is to still have regular oil changes with quality oil and filters, both of which are still much cheaper than an engine overhaul or replacement.
Detroit what though?
Not to mention as engines get miles on them, tolerances will increase, which means it's usually a good idea to run slightly thicker oil. Once my classic car hits around 100,000 miles I'll be having it overhauled and switching from 10w30 to 20w50 high zinc.
Restore & Protect is my new favorite 👍🏾
I just used it and immediately I hear lifter clicking noise.
@@fredf.5901 So how's it doing now? Has it Quieted down any? With "79% stronger anti-wear protection than industry standards (vs. GF-6 qualified oil)" I'd hope after it's used a couple trips... That it'd coat/clean at least a little bit. I've read/seen R&P reviews that had suggested it (R&P) was doing better then the previous Oil Fill with Engine Noise,Feel, and/or various Performance variables...
Not saying it is a Miracle Oil that eliminates whatever problem(s) you're experiencing, but that it is doing better then "other" oils. For example... My last Pennzoil Oil Change (Full Synthetic, not a Dexos1 rated Oil). Claimed like "40% better performance than conventional oil*"... Could mean a wide variety of things but it (Pennzoil Full Synthetic) does claim/warranty 10,000 mile interval* ....
I would recommend watching the motor oil geeks RUclips channel. Lots of good info.
The frequency you change oil depends on a lot of variables.
I changed my oil every 3000 miles because i enjoy doing it and its just what 40 bucks
Very good information here. That's why I like Toyota, since Toyota uses port and direct injection together. This Valvoline "Restore and Protect" additive package seems like a pretty good idea.
Thanks Valvoline Oil! Thanks Tim from coming up with this excellent video, bringing a Valvoline representative into the video!!!
I have a Chrysler 200 (3.6L Pentastar V6) as a former daily driver that I've driven from around 15k miles to well over 200k miles. I've always followed the oil change reminder, which usually ended up around 7,500 miles (which I believe is the highest the computer will let it go) and used synthetic oil. After almost 250k miles of use, it doesn't consume or leak any oil, the used oil looks and smells fine, and the engine is smooth and quiet just like when I bought it all those years ago. It has never skipped a beat, and I can tell it has a ton of life left.
My newer daily driver, currently around 50k miles, also has a Pentastar 3.6L (why mess with success?) and the oil change reminder tends to go to nearly 10k miles. It knows the conditions in which the engine is operating and adjusts the interval accordingly, my other Pentastar proved itself honest--I trust it.
Maybe if I had a complicated tiny turbocharged 200hp/L DI engine (which I intentionally avoid) I'd be less confident, but on an ol' simple, proven workhorse of an engine, I'm not worried one bit. Every 3k would just be a waste of my time.
there is no substitute for frequent oil changes, I don't care what brand of oil or what kind of genies they put in the bottle. Every vehicle has different sets of operating conditions and oils are made for an average set of conditions. You ask professional mechanics and they will not recommend the lengthy oil change intervals. Nothing tops a fresh plentiful quantity of oil.
And mechanics are much more knowledgeable than EPA bureaucrats and glorified salesmen.
If you put the wrong specification of oil into a D.I. engine, you'll blow chunks of the piston/rings into the oil pan. Be careful about that "genie in a bottle" phrase.
I'm really enjoying my popcorn while reading these comments...
Been changing my oil and filter every 10k, without issues. Always used Mobil 1 performance synthetic, including their 10k mile filter. The first time I had to do a valve cover job, which involves removing the whole top end of the engine. Everything was clean as can be. No sludge, no oil caking, no soot. Engine was very clean, for 175k miles.
What we all need to get through our heads, is that CAFE has their fingers in every aspect of automotive maintenance and OEM recommendations. MR Valvoline sales guy touched on CAFE regarding oil weight. And what he said is accurate. But CAFE is also responsible for the ever increasing oil change intervals as well. In no situation is a 10k oil change better than a shorter interval! The fact that they found necessity and market value in even creating a product such as Restore and Protect is proof alone that todays oil change intervals are not doing good things for our engines.
Came to make this comment. Change your oil every 3-5k and disregard these new extended drain intervals.
The 10K mile oil change interval came from EU regulations that deal with their concern for the disposal of used motor oil and filters, as well as the generally much higher cost of motor oil (and gasoline) in the EU. The 10K interval is not related to USA CAFE regulations, which deal with MPG. CAFE has greatly influenced the current trend of low viscosity motor oils, especially from Toyota and Honda.
@@Mark-rw3kw Better go research more on that one. CAFE absolutely has a ton to do with current manufacturers OCI intervals. A big part of CAFE is cost of ownership. By stretching out OCI’s and every other service. A manufacturer can claim a lower cost of ownership. Which in turn nets them CAFE points with the GOV.
@@1967friend I was not aware of any points for OCI, but CAFE stands for Corporate Average Fuel Economy, and each auto manufacturer has to pay penalties if their average MPG exceeds a certain number (irrespective of OCI). I searched another oil forum, and several people did research on this claim (OCI is related to CAFE), and found it to be completely baseless. But maybe they are wrong, but you need to provide some source for your claim.
Exactly!
Lake Speed Jr.
Guys, listen to this guy.
That’s exactly what I was going to say!
A tribologist that has helped design modern engine oil does not do 7500 to 10000 oil changes. That should tell you everything you need to know.
@@brianmaloney5430I thought he said he so going to go 10,000 miles on his daughter’s new Toyota now that it is past the break-in period.
Lake is an absolute must watch and listen.
@@brianmaloney5430 ......AMSOIL INC. has Many Tribologists and Chemists that have designed Engine oils that go beyond 10,ooo miles. There first Synthetic designed in the 90's and put on the market in 1972 was designed to go one year or 25,000 miles which ever came first, and they are sill on the market today! Engine oils can be developed for a "PRICE POINT", or long term, it just depends on how much the oil manufacturer wants to put into the oil, dollar wise.
My Toyota RAV4 Owner Manual States:
"An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions."
"Better Suited" pretty much says what they are recommending (0W-16) is not really good enough.
And Mazda owners manuals state 0w20, but only in USA and Canada 😉. Everywhere else, from sub-zero temps on up it clearly says 5w30 is the best choice.
Proof that our recommendations are EPA and CAFE driven, not engineer driven.
@RAV4Adventures2024.......Some Toyotas recommend 0W-12
@@1gr8oil Might as well just use water from the faucet.
Look at the owners manual outside of N. America (US/Canada) and you'll see they will mention a range of viscosities that can be used, whereas in the U.S. they will just mention one. Since noticing that I'm now ignoring that part of the manual.
Tim good show for some reason. I am an oil geek myself. I love to research motor oil recently last week. I switched my brands that I’ve used for 30 years to Valvoline protect and restore. I’m testing it in my Ford 302 in my research includes lake Speed Junior, which also did a segment on this oil, also with a guy from Valvoline They also run it on a dino doing horsepower test different weights things of that nature. It’s really what made me switch again as Jason said switching weights maybe from a 5:20 to a 530 might not hurt but you don’t wanna go to far because today’s modern rings are much thinner and have less tension and heavier oil needs more tension on the piston rings, so don’t blow by most people think heavier oil better so won’t get by. Not true as far as my research shows again just my personal thoughts everybody has a different thought.
Buy a bore scope and look inside your engine. Otherwise you are guessing as to whether it does anything, good or bad.
same here, & I will definitely keep on using R&P
Thinner oil will not protect the same as thicker oil. The motor oil geek has a video comparing thin oil to thick oil in the same engine.
Yup and he confirmed that viscosity plays a role in wear protection. For daily drivers, especially in the summer heat, 5W30 is a no brainer.
@@hauseofraf I like 5w40 in my hemi.
And the lab analysis showed much more wear with thin oil.
All of us engine builders could have told you that! Every engine teardown on thicker oil has much less wear than those guys that use thinner oil believing they go faster:)
@@owenhill-vf7ko Thank you.
I’m 1500 miles into my first use of vr&p so far the oil is still clean but the engine has been quieter and smoother running from the first start. I don’t expect to get much cleaning done as it’s well maintained,I’m going to give it 3-6 oil changes and see how it goes then probably go back to Kirkland.
On my new 97 Dodge Cummins I switched to Amsoil 15w40 diesel at 10k miles, added the double bypass system, changed primary filter every 6k, bypass filter every 12k, oil at 25k. At 300k we pulled the valve cover and was SHOCKED to see the valve train looked like the day it came out of factory, seriously, it was that clean. that truck is still on the road at 500k. The body is rusted beyond repair but it's still running.
"The body is rusted beyond repair but it's still running"
Add in a cracked dashboard and constant ball joint failure and you have the average second gen
I can change my oil myself for $40. I target 5k miles or once a year. Cheap insurance to keep the inside clean and functioning properly.
As for thin oil like 0W-20, I prefer more protection over a slight higher mpg. I prefer 0W-30 or 5W-30.
Engineer just told you 10k is more than safe and you cut that by 50% for "cheap insurance"?
Totally concur. You are the type of owner I am looking for when buying a used vehicle. Kudos to you!!!
@@LexusGX460-OFF-ROAD Wish car would you buy, one with 5k or 10k oil changes?
I car is not just transportation to me. My Civic is just fine but my Corvette is special. I service them the same way. You say waste but I say my cars are better cared for. Best wishes.
Thicker doesn't mean better. Modern synthetic oil, even 0W16, provides better lubricity, thermal tolerance and wear protection than 10W30 conventional oil. And it goes without saying on a 0 degree morning 0W16 will flow many times easier and build oil pressure almost instantly compared to 10W30 or even 5W30.
Thats what I hoot for unless I’m on manufacturer schedule but switch to this interval when paid scheduled maintenance ends and I do. Always use rated oil weights and Mobil 1 with filter runs me @$35-$40 at walmart
I tried to tow a U-Haul trailer loaded with furniture out of the Carolina's one time with my Chevy pickup running Castrol 10w30 and almost burned up my engine had it not been for having a new bottle of STP behind the seat to put in my old 305 that had a 4 speed stick tranny. The oil pressure was dropping like a rock and the engine heat gauge was climbing. The STP stopped it cold. From there on out I ran a 10-40-04 a 15w40 diesel oil when towing. Problem solved . Run a heavier grade oil when towing or working the guts out of a motor.
Again, the Oil Geek has covered shelf life of oil and the separation of additives in oil over time sitting on the shelf!
so shake it up. It isn't like it leaked out on your garage floor/ or melted the container.
It isn't whole blood plasma you're injecting in you are folks. It is an oil change. I do mine every 3,000km by myself.
it's a cheap ain't item.
Well. Do what you want to do, and so will I.
Happy Happy eh?
Carbon on pistons/combustion chambers verses intake valves, as per your guest, are two separate issues, largely unrelated. Restore and Protect can help minimize the valve buildup some, but port injection is still a very good way to help as well - that is pretty much what the Valvoline engineer said.
Annual top cylinder soaks are the oil-nerd thing to do. Can't hurt when you change the oil immediately afterwards. An inspection camera in a cell phone can't see coked rings. I'll add solvent multiple times in a weekend and the motor will smoke a few seconds on start-up.
@@timothykeith1367 That's why I still have my old port-injection auto, and will only buy a new car that has both port injection and GDI. On engines with both port injection and GDI, the port injection typically runs when idling to do cleaning.
I remember Valvoline 10 x 30 oil back in the 60's the Ford 352 360 390 loved that oil , it worked well for those old work horses .
The 289 in my 68 Mustang loves 10 30 too. I've owned the car since 1977 and Castrol 10 30 is what I've always used.
Subaru says "if the engine consistently fails to reach operating temperature within 10-15 minutes of driving, it may be considered as short trips." Short trips means "severe service", means 3k oil changes. They also specify a 6 month interval regardless of mileage.
They are 100% right! Do to condensate contamination. My work is only a couple of miles away. I proved this to myself with water in my oil. Synthetic oil gets contaminated like anything else. My vehicle doesn’t make to 3k and I change the oil. I do mine twice a year. Only drive about 5k a year.
They burn oil those Suburu engines old or new 😮
The best move I ever made with my 2014 FB25 Subaru was changing from the recommended 0w20 oils to 0w30 pennzoil platinum euro. I used to burn a quart every 1000 miles, now it only consumes an extra quart and a half, so even though 0w30 costs more it saves me money because I don’t have to buy 4 quarts between oil changes. I thought my MPG would go down but it’s still around 27. I actually think my mpg is better on the highway.
@@Davido50 Not sure where you're getting your misinformation. Our 2020 Forester has 53k miles on it and it still uses about half a quart in 5,000 miles. What's wrong with that?
Wonder why with all the advances in egine oil, the warranties on engines havent been extened?
It all boils down to $$$$$$$
Manufacturer wants your engine to fail after the warranty has expired so you can buy a new vehicle from them.
Because they’re all about profit. Hell they’d rather not give a warranty at all if they could somehow still get people to buy their cars lol
Because he hey know many will fail, and that angers the car buyer, so free replacements rase some of that anger.
Because car manufacturers keep specifying thinner and thinner oil to improve gas mileage. Plus most engines are going to 4-cylinder Turbo now, which is a killer on engine longevity. Toyota specifies 0W-16 motor oil on most new cars, and even 0W-08 on some of their vehicles, all to improve gas mileage.
Remember valvoline invented motor oil and they have a legacy they are proud to live up to.
Originally my current engine spec’d 5w-30. Now they recommend 0w-20. Knowing that the clearances are the same, the 5w-30 will be fine to use if you prefer long engine life over economy. That said, my engine is also showing manufacturing tolerance outliers where the rocker needle bearings seize up so I’m thinking a higher HTHS may be prudent to at least delay the potentially inevitable. With that, I’ve gone to a Euro spec API SP rated 5w-40. If the heat at that component isn’t that high, it will not reach that viscosity. I chose this direction over 1 mpg.
My engine is not DI, but with possible DI and forced induction and the fuel dilution that comes with each, it also may not be a bad idea to look into a slightly higher viscosity to basically get a head start.
I think with this small step up in viscosity, you won’t run into startup wear or loss of oil control with the oil being too thick for the piston rings to control.
Is the piston ring tension the same? If not, the rings will start hydroplaning.
With new engines having turbos, you change oil to protect the turbo. Even the best oils get destroyed by the shear forces in a turbo. Non-turbo can go more than double the mileage with well formulated oils.
Awesome explanation from the Engineer! Very informative.
Any issues with main seal leaks that are old and possibly getting seal integrity help from the carbon buildup?
THANK YOU FOR CONFIRMING A HIGHER NUMBER, FOR A HOTTER CLIMATE.... 👌🏻👍🏻
1993 Jeep Cherokee XJ Sport (158k), 2003 F150 XLT 4x4 (218k), 2018 Toyota Carmy (88k). All three get regular oil changes at or slightly before 5,000 miles. No synthetics. No exceptions.
All anecdotal, worthless information, my friend.
I guess it’s all about how comfortable you are with oil change intervals…..you’re not going to any harm to your engine by changing your oil sooner rather than later…..if you sleep better at 5k intervals then fine….I’m staying with 5k intervals….I’m sure Valvoline will appreciate the business…
I will not go over 3k between oil changes no matter who says different.
These 5 and 10k oil changes were created for manufacturers to claim lower cost of ownership BS.
I’ve never in 40 years had an engine failure.
Good quality engine + 3k oil changes = very long life engine.
The switch to 10K miles was mostly because of EU regulations on oil change frequency.
10,000 miles are totally fine if it's open road/hwy driving using a brand of gas and oil w/filter
@@willg.5168 Obviously, you mean a "Top Tier" rated brand of gas. Top tier includes a lot of brands other than the major oil companies, but should be labeled as such on the pump or at the Top Tier website.
@@Mark-rw3kw I actually did, thanks for that correction 👍🏽
And that post is from my actually doing that in my own vehicle, with no hear say🙂
I'm going to use Valvoline restore and protect next change. My 06 CVPI calls for 5w20 but my plan was to switch to 5w30. You see any issue w that or any benefit. Car has 258k miles and runs great not rebuilt.
Watch out for leaks if you haven’t been using synthetic oils. Aggressive cleaning may remove the carbon sealing the gaskets.
I don’t care how advanced the oil is. Does it purge all the dirt, carbon, fuel and impurities from the oil besides the filter doing so much? Nope. I’ll stick to shorter intervals.
Change every 3000 miles. Good oil. Decent filter. Treat to a fuel treatment at same time. Every 3rd change of oil maybe use a flush especially if older engine.
Toyota’s marketing team asked the engineers how long the engines can safely go between changes. The engineers said we want 5,000 but it will go 10,000. If you watch “the car care nut” he proves that going 10,000 in these engines they will need rings in 250,000 miles vs. 400,000 if done at 5,000. Toyota doesn’t even recommend changing it after break in. Remember the longer the car lasts the less new cars they sell!
If you cut their recommended oil change interval in half, over the life of the vehicle what are you saving? Maybe a $1000? Doesn't seem too expensive long term for the potential problems you might avoid.
Im fine with thinner oil on trucks and cars that dont ever get the rpm over 4k. But what about performance oriented vehicles? I have a 2024 GR Corolla that pushing 25 psi of boost and oil analysis showed a big difference in wear between 0W20 and 5W30. The wear dropped by double when using 5W30 and oil pressure barley even went up. So im confused in terms of high performance vehicles and why using thin oil might not be so good on turbocharge or supercharge vehicles.
I think like mentioned OEMs often prioritize fuel economy when determining oil specifications. But like he said sometimes they also specify a heavier weight for circumstances where higher loads or heat occur. I don’t think there is anything mentioned about that for the GRC but Ford does for their Mustang (I think going from 5w30 to 5 or 15w50 for track use). Probably not a bad idea to use that if you’re okay with the fuel economy hit (likely less than 1mpg anyways).
@@ALMX5DPThe fuel economy hit has only been about .5 mpg and the car already gets 28 mpg so im fine with that. Its just annoying that they use scare tactics saying that you have to uses this oil and nothing else or your engine will explode.
If your oil lab results show less wear and you're not getting fuel contamination, I'd stay with a quality 5w30
@@ResistculturaldeclineFuel contamination went down from a 1.4 to lower then .5
@@SstudiousS Beautiful
So excluding mall crawlers, anyone that uses their truck as a truck should run a higher viscosity. (at 4-7 min) For example, coyote mustang use 5-30, but PP & Boss use 5-50.
How about 3,333 Mile oil change interval. Also very easy to remember no matter where you are. This is what I’m doing until I do oil analysis with restore and protect on my 2024 Camry hybrid. Motor on and off can be severe use. So I will see how it works after I’m done with break in …
Have a 2019 f150 3.5. It had a slight ticking/ knocking while running. I thought it was just a sound barrier thing. 68,000 miles in, changed my oil to restore and protect, and it went away on the first start and hasn'tcome back in 1000 miles. I assume that's good. Side note on the newer f150's (not sure on year) after an oil change, before the 1st start;
Key: Press the accelerator to the floor and turn the key. the engine will prime without starting, and you may need to do it twice to get the oil pressure guage to read good.
Push start: same as above only press brake and accelerator then press start(not hold). The process is automatic and will end on its own after a few seconds.
Thicker oil more protection! Higher the base oil less wear. Makes sense.
Great information! Took me along time to get away from VALVOLINE 50wt racing oil in my performance engines, as well as my street engines! Bigger use to be better! Right! Trying to figure out when to use high mileage oil.
In Canada provincial highway maintenance trucks from 6 cylinder 4.3 to cat engines to graders loaders crawlers use 15x40 oil every 300 hours on diesels and 100 hours on gas pots the 4.3 GM motors last 600.00 KM and more , but it takes 3 transmissions 4 fuel pumps 1 rear end , but by then the rest of the truck is rotten .
I do not use mileage as an indicator of when to change oil.. I use an hour meter that I installed. I change oil and filter every 50 hrs.. thats approximately 2000 miles at an average speed of 40mph of driving.. is approximately 50 hrs of engine operation..
What your not telling is the oem's are receiving additional credits for CAFE promoting longer oil intervals.
CAFE is fuel economy... not emissions, not "oil change intervals". Education is key 😉
After doing some research, I find your comment to be true which was surprising to me. Cafe standards usually are for fuel economy, but the disposal of fossil fuels has an impact on the environment and they do get credits for lengthening the oil change interval. That's really not a good thing in this situation. Thanks for surfacing that point!
And I'll be d--ned if I listen to the EPA.
@@jamesbosworth4191 oh I would listen to the EPA. I'm a tree hugger..
@@mikesawyer1336 I love trees too. They provide life-giving oxygen, without which we wouldn't be able to live, but most EPA bureaucrats don't know squat about cars and act like they HATE cars, so how can you listen to them about how to maintain a car? That's like asking a plummer how to perform Open-Heart surgery.
Thanks for asking all the questions we all wanted to know. Great content, man. 👍
You need to talk to Brian at BND Automotive he’s a oil and fuel additive guru, I buy his oil for my 2023 tundra , Hoping it doesn’t have a problem.
Sludge buildup is from low rpm low run time.i work as a marine tech and have never had a block come in covered in sludge.some are running garbage Walmart cheap oil yet clean as a whistle.my 2003 f350 gas motor i tow a good amount and always running high rpms and can't remember the last time i changed the oil.but i put a scope down the valve cover and its still decent looking.
Folks THINK!!!!
Thin oil is about CAFE numbers.
10k OC is marketing low maintenance costs.
It will make it past warranty.
New Zealand specs on my 4rnr is 5w-30 and 5w-40 sever service.
EPA governs policy here.
5k OC 5w-30 on 4rnr and 5w-40 on f250 6.2l because it toqs 12k during shredding season.
So do your homework and you decide what works for you, not the dealer or government.
EPA does not govern policy. The mfg is free to recommend any oil they want.
@OtisFlint it's all based of govern.ent mandated CAFE numbers.
Good day.
Why can't we get the 10W-40 Valvoline Restore and Protect? Australia gets it, but what about us here in the states??
Best recomendations: Change your engine oil every 5,000 miles or six months…AND, change your Washington politicians every 8 and 12 years. Term limits Constitutional Amendment is absolutely needed.
Tighter bearing clearances to speak.It's the same as they were before if you make them any tighter.The engine will cease when the engine warms up
A lot of this is driven by EPA especially thinner oil to reduce drag
My father have a 2012 Camry and he was doing as mentioned in the onwers manuak 10k oil changes. Now at 250,000 miles the engine has an oil consumption issue.
250k miles? Man when I was growing up 100k was the max. Likely not an oil change issue, more like an engine issue.
@Pickuptrucktalk yes it was worsened by keeping the oil.10k After some digging we found that the engine oil because of the hot weather and humid environmet needs to be changed every 5k for that car. Right now, consuming almost 1qt per week is quite severe. I have a Nissan, which I change the oil every 5k per owners manual, and we could see at worst half a quart of oil lost at 5k, which is fine and is not always it happens sometimes.
135,000 on 14 5.0 F150 sevear use, change oil every 3500 miles truck runs like new.
I will say have only used Valvoline in my two 2013 accord lx's. One has 203k, the other 177k, and absolutely ABUSE the 177k car, wife drives the 202k car. Both run like new, I do change CVT every 30k as well.. I am completely shocked the CVTs have lasted this long. All highway, 90mi round-trip commute 5 days per week. I dont stop when I leave my driveway until I exit interstate at my work exit. 34min avg travel time one way. I consistently run 100mph or greater in stretches.. CVT is quite responsive and fun at high speeds. Cars will do in excess of 130mph, afraid to push any higher due to tire ratings..
People complain about oil change cost. I told friends you need to change every six months and said i cant afford. Two loss their engines after less than 50,000 to 80,,000 miles all city driving in texas heat. Engine cost up too 5,000 dollars very expensive to compared too 720 dollars for 16 oil change cost., the oil change indicator will destroy your engine. My Honda says change oil 7500 miles i am retired so dont drive many miles. No oil change place will not put in your own oil.
Valvoline expert keeps talking about the "PVC" system. It's Positive Crankcase Ventilation...PCV. Just FYI.
I've been rebuilding and running gas and diesel engines for over half century. It depends on the quality of fuel you use, maintenance overal and the environment you run in. In city, long runs, dirty environment. My advice is no more than 5kfor gas and 15k on diesel.
Great content Tim. Thank you sir.
After listening to Lake Speed Jr., I’m dropping from 5K to 3K immediately. Always felt these longer oil changes were bs but never knew what that guy knows. Oil changes are cheap.
It’s $50 for an oil change. Why push it to the max with a 10k change?? These are max intervals that you see in the owners manual.
I don’t understood the mindset of people spending 50K plus on a vehicle and then try to save a nickel by maxing out your oil interval.
Despite all the hype, what they don't tell you is that your local repair shops don't really carry it and won't back it up. I had to buy my own... to get my local shop to put it in, and they wouldn't back it. On the receipt, they put "no warranty" (meaning they wouldn't back it).
If you have a vehicle with warranty coverage that requires documentation of regular oil changes...and you want to use this oil, it will be a hassle finding shops that carry it. I'm in St. Louis and I couldn't find any shop that carries this oil.
Notice he said the direct injection is a separate issue from piston carbon buildup. Also some manufacturers are worse about carbon build up on the valves then others .. probably depending on if they have port injection or not.
I gotta give Toyota props for having both DI and PFI
Ford also on the 3.5l, 2.7l and 5.0l@@rockkstah2550
@@rockkstah2550 Hyundai is moving in that direction also with their Smart Stream engines. But the Hyundai engines use one injector to do both GDI and FI. Early Hyundai GDI engines were notorious for carbon buildup on intake valves.
@@Mark-rw3kw i have a hyundai ioniq hybrid with a gdi engine and 230k miles. i was doing 10k oil changes. im scared...
@@PhaseSkater I don’t know if that engine has Hyundai smartstream technology or not, but it is not like carbon buildup will cause engine failure and it can be treated (although a dealer would charge several hundred dollars at least). The oil change frequency is not really related to GDI carbon buildup, but I would change the oil more frequently than 10K miles and use a full synthetic oil.
I change oil and rotate tires every 5,000 miles, I figure oil is cheap enough and if I'm doing a little extra then hopefully my engine will last a little longer and it just helps me keep up with the tire maintenance also.
I came here for the comment from the "expert" backyard mechanics. "Back in 1968 when everything was made better and we used oil straight out the ground....." 😂
Lmao!!! And they paid a quarter for a candy bar!
The stupidity in the comments is amazing!
Wish I coukd get restore & Prot over here in the UK, sounds exactly what I need
It's not just the PCV system. EGR has a lot to do with carbon build up.
And EGR hurts part-throttle performance.
@@jamesbosworth4191 EGR improves part load fuel economy by decreasing throttling losses.
@@gregorymalchuk272 Not in my experience it doesn't. And besides, having to give more throttle makes the engine feel weak.
Do you drive regular or severe duty? Might want to check your owners manual before you decide on your oil change intervals.
@jeffw6894....Actually, most people are driving in a "SEVERE DUTY" conditions.
@@1gr8oil Yeah exactly, their driving habits or location falls under severe duty but they stretch out their OCI and wonder why they have problems down the road.
Most expert mechanics will all tell you no on the 7500 and 10000 mile oil changes. They have seen the inside of the newer engines and failers from the extended intervals
Public school education... scientists analyze oil and engine wear NOT stealership quick-lube techs. Scientists do the actual, factual testing. Billy-Bob the mechanic has zero clue what oxidation is or means.
You mean the people selling oil changes want more oil changes? Shocking.
Not a engineer a tribologist. You do realize that the oems receive café credit for promoting longer oil changes. There are many master mechanics that see the oil sludging up in modern engines that push for 7500 and 10k oil changes. Also they have seen the low tension piston rings get stuck do to extended oil changes. When this happens the engine starts burning oil. You do realize the valvoline engineer never said it's ok to 10k miles. What about the lifetime tranny fluid gm and ford push? Many people who believe this have tranny failer between 80k and 120k miles.
It's always in the lab under controlled environment. Bot rear world city driving.
@@LexusGX460-OFF-ROADyou don't need to be a scientist or engineer to know what sludge and varnish buildup looks like. Perhaps the engineers need to pull apart some engines that have been serviced at their recommended intervals so they can see for themselves.
Dave's Auto Center on the internet rebuilds engines and sees a lot of destruction by owners following their manufacturers recommendations for oil changes of 10,000 miles. He says cut the number in half of the manufacturer's recommendations. I have had great luck with changing oil and filter every 3000 miles and will continue to do so.
Jason “Head”… what a bad ass name.
🗣️🗣️🗣️
@@loganhead804 bad ass!
I change oil in my vehicles twice a year, spring and fall, regardless of miles. I've been doing that for decades. They have over 200k, 300k miles on original drivetrain. Also, I change fluids in transmission and differentials evey 5,000 miles.
You obviously do highway driving which is much easier on oil than short drives which results in more raw fuel in the oil and less moisture burn off. Can you say sludge?
Is there any advantage to running Restore and Protect in a new car? I:m using it in my 2023 w/only 6,600 miles on it. My original intent was to "keep it clean" but wonder if the protection it iffers is any better than other synthetic oils?
You'll never convince me to go further than 4,000 miles on a oil fill.
@@1FiftyOverland just curious where you came up with 4k as the absolute limit.
Sold the truck. What do you expect to cost $9k? Certainly not the engine.
@ALMX5DP That is a mileage I came up with based on all my automotive knowledge and experience.
@@1FiftyOverland anything to share about how that decision was made? Like why not 3k?
@@1FiftyOverland what’s interesting to me is everyone has a number. Scroll through the comments. Some are 3k, some 5k and your 4K. This doesn’t take into account all the vehicles that go 10k. Really interesting to me to see the disparity.
Not only the various hydraulic systems, but the new breed to lighter rings don't like heavy oil at all. The rings need to scrape the oil off the cylinder walls and control how much is remaining. Too heavy a grade will leave too much behind to burn, causing a lean condition.
Oil consumption doesn't cause a lean condition, it causes you to have to add oil between changes, causes carbon build up, and can cause you to fail a smog check.
SE Michigan for the win! 💯 ❤