The old oil info is interesting but everyone came here to see if they should be shaking the new oil they are buying. That wasn't really covered at all. But if you pause on the data sheet, you can see that YES, the New shaken oil had a much higher additive content than the New non-shaken sample. So YES, shake your new oil before pouring it.
Yes, same here. The video was great, but I was curious about the new oil. I'd also be curious about one year old oil. I'm sure there's a lot of places are selling oil from the shelf that's a year old.
@marinetechknj Good point on the year old. But if the "new" had already settled, year old definitely needs shaken good. All of this honestly just makes me wonder why the hell oil doesn't say to "shake well" on it?????
On the topic of old oil, in the '70s I went to Sears with my dad with our own container and you could buy bulk oil. If I recall their top of the line was called "Spectrum", cost about 30 cents a quart and really smelled bad. At the time I didn't know what the smell was until I became a hot rodder, bought my first Crane Cam and the pint bottle of oil additive they included had the same stink. It was the high pressure zinc etc additives!
New oil from Pennzoil had additive fallout in bottom of container. Sent pictures and emailed Shell. Their response was all new oil needs to be shaken heavily before used.
I've been shaking it upside down for 50 years, but They said the same, except basically turn it upside down and shake it well and disperse as much back into suspension as possible.
'additive fallout ' The real test isn't just testing in a lab, it's how different are the two oils after about a week running in an engine? No matter how 'sparkly' the new oil seems, you can bet you'll have a much harder time telling them apart after a week or two, and for the next few months of use. The old oil being put through a sump pump correctly and the new oil doing the same and getting worked will probably put them on very similar paths. If the old oil is old enough, you also have to check for additive changes over time and similar factors, not just general aging.
I had the same experience with several different new jugs of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, but I wasn't able to get it to fully remix by shaking it. To be fair, the last time I bought Pennzoil was in early 2022 and they may have improved their formula since then, but the fact that your video in 2010 and my last experience with Pennzoil in 2022 shows that this has been going on for 12+ years doesn't give me much hope that they fixed anything.
It’s cool that you’re actually willing to share your knowledge of oil to the general public like this. Most people in your position would try to keep things a “race team secret”.
@@themotoroilgeek a BIG flaw in your test.. we'd expect to use the whole container for a change.. you just skimmed the top off.. shaken vs stirred.. I've always given bottles a shake old or new.. iny 50+ years working with engines .. so a 👎
So... whature gettin at is that there will be 0 modern engines surviving the pocalypse. Well... dang. Get a horse and say goodbye to the gassers, not even making alcohol will save the combustion engine. Not enough model t's left for parts, so nothing sloppy enough to work with the junk oil will survive. Stock up on bearings, rods, and be prepared to rebuild many a motor if you are mad maxing it!
@@HawkeyeMobileAutoRepair Perhaps a Toyota pickup, just changed the transmission oil today. It's an 86 and I'd bet it was only its second change ever. It also has way over 260k miles, in the last decade the previous owner also didn't fix the odometer so god knows what millage all the drivetrain has. But yes the engine is the one question mark we would all have.
What about sending the sludge at the bottom of bottle off for testing? It would be neat to see what actually separated out of the oil. Does one additive separate more readily than others?
We love learning from Lake Speed, thanks for making great content. The foam coming off the old gear oil at the end demonstrates the importance of changing an older vehicle’s (often forgotten) gear oil. Yet another example of how maintenance matters.
Just imagine all of that 'beautiful' foam as the only thing between the ring & pinion in your new, custom, full floater, Wavetrac diffed, BIG $$$$$ 9" rear axle, on a blazing hot, open track day. OUCH!!
My natural instinct when preparing to shake something that has “settled” is to turn the container upside down prior to shaking. How odd it was to see you shake it “right side up”.
Lake, great stuff here. Over my 50+ years making a living turning wrenches, this is information that dispels a lot that I've heard over the years. The moisture intrusion factor with plastic containers also applies to brake fluid that's in those type containers. Personally, I buy only the amount of brake fluid that I need for a certain project and I date the container when I've opened it. Living in Florida with humidity through the roof, I remember the days when I first started out in a small shop, where that metal gallon jug of shop use brake fluid would sit opened until it was used up. This was insanity, come to think of it, but many of us didn't know. That kind of info wasn't as easily found back in the early 1970s, plus the guy that owned the shop was cheap. He didn't waste anything. I never used that shop fluid in my car because of the fact that I didn't want fluid that might have trash in it from it always being open. Kind of a common sense thing with a hydraulic system that's critical like brakes. The small containers of brake fluid were all metal back in the day with a thick metal seal in the top, under the screw on cap. This makes me wonder if an unopened metal container of brake fluid degrades? Thanks for a great and informative video, Lake. I remember seeing your dad when he used to campaign that T-bird. I'm glad that he's still having fun with it.
Brake fluid has many multiples of times greater hygroscopic tendency (the proclivity to take on moisture from the atmosphere), due to it's chemical makeup, than engine oil or gear oil. It makes me wonder WHY any of the top tier/high end/ultra high boiling point racing brake fluids are EVER sold in plastic bottles at all. Then I realized that since they are designed for a racing environment, the whole bottle is going to be used very quickly for very frequent bleeds and full flushes once opened. But, given the greater permeability of the plastic bottles, I do wonder whether said race teams actually look for the freshest 'build' date on the plastic bottles they purchase (or are supplied by their sponsors) in order to not first start with a moisture laden product which has sat on a shelf, and taken on water. That said, once it is opened, or even if it sits unopened long enough, even metal containers will allow some moisture into the fluid, IF it is LONG past it's date of production. I owned a /90 T-Bird SC manual a long time ago, so yeah, I always rooted for the Ford drivers way back when I still followed the roundy 'round crews at all. 😉
@@Fordworldrallyfan You're not kidding about the hygroscopic tendency on brake fluid (non-silicone based). When I bought my stock car it came without calipers. I assUmed they ran DOT5 silicone brake fluid, so I ordered some. Right before I was ready to pour some in and start bleeding, I wanted to make sure before I REALLY messed up. I filled a clear water bottle about 1/4 full with the unknown brake fluid. And filled a shotglass 1/2 full with DOT5. Filled both of them up with water. The shotglass had a definite line of the water floating on top. Purple tint on the bottom, clear on the top. The water bottle mixed up PERFECT with 3 parts water 1 part brake fluid. Zero water or fluid floated to the top or settled to the bottom. Needless to say, I'm glad I ran that test before I screwed up and mixed in DOT5 with DOT4. I wanted to run a test and see how much water the brake fluid could absorb before getting fully saturated, and just never got around to it.
I was helping a friend make room in his garage for his new Silverado. We found maybe 10-15 opened quarts of motor oil. I used you videos as justification to dispose of every single one. Some were from the 90s.
Thanks for giving us the information that we mortals need to help our engines last as long as they possibly can......the costs of cars has dictated we make them last as long as possible
Even though nowadays theyre built to fail. Been religious on oil changes on the wifes car,yet at 93k its showing signs its going to need a timing chain here soon.
@@MrTheHillfolkoften it's difficult to convince a woman to buy something less appealing like a VW built time bomb (only speculation). I bought a NA 6 cylinder subaru that gets just as good fuel economy as a small 4 pot engine because I know how to coast n feather the throttle. A few women I know race there cars up to an intersection then slam on the brakes. Also I don't slam an auto from reverse outta the drive into drive while still moving... Truly sympathise with married men... it's heartbreaking.
@@peterlattimore6013 You need to hit those high rpms every once in a while, of course only when it reaches operating temperatures to clean the carbon build up if it's a direct injection engine.
@@LazyBoyA1 for sure, to avoid the the carbon accumulating on the inlet value stem and port. However I don't have the issue as much as many, as I drive mainly hiway speeds with limited idle time in traffic due to working anti social hours during the night (never sitting idle in traffic).
API SF/CC as shown at the beginning when openning the box, is a category that was obsolete more than a decade ago. It is noat a controlled category....Real Expert
I liked your frother test, not sure what that says about me......... Mobile One sold me on full synthetic oil in 1998. I had a brand new vehicle then, and the first oil change at 1500 miles was done during a cold snap where morning temperatures when I started the vehicle were in the -20 degrees Fahrenheit. The difference in noise and cranking speed was VERY noticeable. The vehicle came with traditional motor oil from the factory, but I have used full synthetic ever since. Sean Connery is my favorite James Bond as well.
Either I'm a time traveler, or this video was reuploaded from the other day. 😂 Great information! Now, we have definitive proof that oils age even if they aren't used.
Glad to see you use HPL oil products. I’ve heard very good things about them and have used their products a little. Your use of their stuff is an independent statement of their quality.
HPL Lubricants ! So glad you went to them. This is what all companies should strive for in terms of performance, customer service, innovation. I had a question about a product once . The person I was initially talking to couldn't answer. She transfered me to the CEO. He was great. Wow, try that with Elon! 😂
The anti-foaming qualities of that HPL gear oil was kind of mind blowing. HPL has been on my radar for a couple a years now, thinking I’m going to finally pull the trigger on some.
The best quote from Mr. speed, I will take with me for the rest of my life, it's so true: "two minutes seems a lot longer when you're shaking something"..
Years ago I worked for a fab shop that was heavily involved in various racing formats. I got hired around the time they were in the middle of a huge fight over Valvoline oil and an oil foaming issue. Both oil tests and further experiments had shown that the oil had issues with foaming to the point it aerated the entire oil supply in the pan. It prompted both a sponsorship change and a new oil. This was in the early 80's and the 'new' oil was Kendall GT, of which they started running solely their 20W50 racing oil and a synthetic gear lube from Pace Lubricants in TX. In the shop, on other non-race vehicles we used either Mobil1 or Castrol depending on the vehicle. I do remember taking home the buckets from the gear oil, which we went through roughly a 5 gallon bucket ever two weeks, and finding the bottom of those buckets with a thick scum on the bottom. The gear lube was a mix of Wolfs head and Kendall. The oil samples we sent out back then were all used oil in failed engines but foaming was a big issue even when the oils ere new. Comparing it to the new oils isn't any sort of comparison, the new oil is always going to be better but on most run of the mill daily drivers from back in the day, the oil they ran then is likely good enough still today in those old engines. Four years ago I stopped driving a 1980 Ford with 369k on it, it went its entire life running on 10W30 Havoline oil that was acquired back in 1980. I still have several unopened cases of it. It did just fine, it was good for it then and I never changed, and never bought new oil, I just used what was on hand. It was still running when I sold it with zero issues in a 300 I6 Ford engine. It simply didn't need anything better to keep it alive all those years. Would new oil be 'better' , I have no doubts, but the old oil was good enough and it saved me a ton of money over the years and likely had no detrimental effects in the later years with that truck. I also have 12 cases of unopened 1985 issue Havoline in the round plastic bottles. It was 10W40 oil supplied through a sponsor at the time as a 'gift' of sorts. I never had anything that ran 10W40 so it sat on the shelf. Its in most of my oil cans around the shop and in a few lawn mowers that are likely more than 50 years old. A lot boils down to any oil is better than no oil, and for old technology vehicles and engines, old oil on the shelf is likely fine for normal use with annual oil changes. I certainly wouldn't put it in my newer vehicles, but the rating alone would prevent that.
I thought if the oil container was sealed and shaken once in a while, the oil would still be ok for 1-10 years.. I am really surprised. I received couple of cases of oil from my father after his passing.... Now I am just going to recycle it. I cannot afford my current car to blow up... Great content...
Oil standards have changed a lot. The oil itself, depending how it was stored, can be quite close to how it left the factory, but that doesn't at all guarantee it's usable for a modern vehicle engine.
As an old dog, im really enjoying your channel learning new tricks I want to say thank you! I still turn my own wrenches but things have changed. I’m almost double nickels so things have changed a lot in my years. I appreciate you doing all these breakdowns and explaining the the W’a! And it’s also nice to say Heidi ho from the other side of , North Carolina.
Sean Connery was the best by far. Engine oil is endlessly facanating and often overlooked . Great videos. Keep up the work cheers 👍 what about look a oils used in a F1 engine ?
I started shaking oil cans before pouring because of a failure in UH-1 helicopters. There were several failures of transmission bearings and analysis showed that the anti foaming additive had settled out and the oil had foamed excessively
I find your videos interesting as I'm a retired CAT&CUMMINGS knuckle buster and this industry has been using oil analysis at least fifty years. I like you really get a good laugh visiting Walmart and walk down the oil isle; know wonder people get confused!!! Sense sometime in the mid/70s have used only two brands of motor oil in everything I own including lawnmowers,motorcycles, cars and trucks. And the brands will probably shock sum people; Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella 15W40. Currently I only use Shell Rotella 5W40 synthetic in everything!!! And for the disbelievers I ran a 3.5 hp B&S (Briggs & Stratton) push mower on 15W40 for twenty five years!!! Oh I just read that Kholer Motor Company in their name brand oil is actually Amsoil.
Love your enthusiasm Lake. Also, back in the day, every time I talked to your father, he was always a joy to talk with. I had some old semi synthetic Valvoline 10W/40 that was about 15 years old. My neighbor was getting ready to leave for a long drive to see a friend that was 300 miles away in her 7 year old Kia. I asked her if her boyfriend had checked the car over before she left and she said no. So I checked under the hood and found she needed some coolant for the overflow and the engine oil was about 2 quarts low. She didn't have any oil, and I didn't want to just give her my fresh Mobil 1, so I gave her 2 of these old Valvoline quarts. Funny, her first remark was how much better and quiet the engine sounded.... what a surprise.... right? I did look inside the bottles and there really wasn't anything in the bottom to my surprise. But I felt that having something in there that would lubricate was far better than not having something that would lubricate. She got back and said everything ran fine. But I highly recommended that she get her boyfriend to service her car, or to go get the oil changed, and perhaps check the oil level sometimes and get it changed at least once a year on her birthday or something.
@@marlu6373 Actually, dealerships use whatever brand of oil is the best deal for them which meets the minimum specifications for their brand of vehicle. They may exist, but I've never seen a dealer that only uses the car manufacturers brand of oils. Also, the OEM's brand of oils also changes from year to year as well. It may be Valvoline this year and Shell something the next year. You never really know what brand of oil is in that OEM bottle of oil. But what you do know is that whatever brand of oil is in it, that that lubricant will meet all of that manufacturers requirements.
#1=Sean Connery #2=Roger Moore #3=Daniel Craig #4=Pierce Brosnan the rest were just okay (by the way, you responded to my comment on the last video with this link, thank you! good vid)
Connery for sure. The Bond reference earned a like. Could've taken them to a paint company and had the mechanically shaken. Way easier and better mixing.
I think the bottles should have been shook upside down, that would have helped dislodge the settled out additives. I never suspected oil would go bad, and the upside down shaking and pouring off, and adding more oil and shaking again is what I would do to get the last of the good stuff out of the bottle. A stick or an artists brush would have worked better in retrospect. I like these videos!
Doesn't make any difference. As far as dislodging the additives at the botom, think of it like this. Turning it upside down simply means you are adding the force of gravity. Now, you know how strong the force of gravity is. You live with it everyday. Now, think of the forces involved when you shake the liquid. Way, way more. Think if you were a miniature you, inside the bottle. if you turned the bottle upside down, you would float down to the bottom (top) by the force of gravity. Now, if somebody shook that bottle up and down vigorously, you would be banging around inside the bottle so hard you'd be knocked out, right? That would happen if the bottle was upside down or not, right?
I found an old havoline 10w40 conv. Case and it had grey specs and scales of zink?? I shook it up and used it in an old dodge . It still ran 300,000 plus towing and highway. The running gear wore out first.
@themotoroilgeek whats your thoughts on using rotella t4 15w40 for a break in on street car? Mountune for example likes using vr1 conventional sae50 but that to me seems to thick on cold start, i live in vermont so its not hot.
My first guess guess was that components in the old oil have become oxidated and precipitated out of suspension over time. Oxidated products are likely to be more polar and be denser. That would not seem to be kind of thing you want in your new oil and more like something you want to drain out in an oil change. It could be an anticorrosive agent(s) that have been consumed by oxidation over time with no use and no longer available to protect a running engine. Shake it up all you want and get all that junk all in suspension, the same elements may be there, but not in the same forms found in the new oil. My sentiment would be to recycle the old oil and just by new oil as indicated here. This affirms the idea that if my car sits in a garage a lot, I should still change my oil after a year or so in spite of milage.
When I observed you vigorously shaking the oil containers (after you made a comment about Sean Connery as James Bond), it reminded me that Sean Connery's character in the James Bond movies only preferred his Vodka Martinis to be "shaken, not stirred!"
I just found a case of oil so old it's still in cardboard bottles! Im still watching the video, vut indoubt ill be putting it in my daily driver (1994 Chevy 4x4 that I bought new). That 350 runs like new even after 290,000 miles, with an oil/lube every 3000 miles. **Edited** After watching the full video, it definitely reinforced my opinion of not using the old oil in my truck! I'll just mix it with the hydraulic oil I spray on the underside and insides of the doors and cab corners to prevent rust from all the damn salt on the roads in the Northeast winters.
I found a couple unopened cans of Conoco API service SF 10W30 oil at a garage sale for $1 each.. I didnt buy them, although it was likely superior to the newest service SP oil as far as zinc content, but likely is lacking in terms of the rest of the additive package. ZDDP additive is available, so I use that along with with modern oil in flat tappet cam engines. Ive been in automotive repair for 52 years, so I go by my experience rather than what any "tribologist" says.
Great Video!!! Old oils definitely cannot be used in the engine because they have water and a high level of oxidation. But the ZDDP level of the old Mobil is incredible, more than 2500
I always heard that pure racing oils had very little calcium in them in order to keep the high rev foaming down to a minimum, because it 'competes' with the other anti-wear/anti-friction additives (ZDDP, any type moly, titanium, tungsten, etc.) and that they did not need it (nor the high starting TBN that element helps make possible) since they are never in the sump (dry or wet) for very long in a race car. Yet, the Mobil 1 RACING (at least the last time I looked at the specs) does have ridiculous amounts of calcium in it's additive package. Does anyone know the logic behind why this is done?? Mr. Speed?
Great video to answer my (group also) question about whether shaking old containers of motor oil would be effective in recombining the oil chem pack that has fallen out of solution over time. I appreciate how you use scientific control protocols in providing true empirical results instead of opinion and urban myth. I look forward to the video followup on your results using the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Synthetic motor oil.
I buy oil on sale, so ya, I've seen residue on the bottom. And this is a fantastic upload, I've always wondered about my 5 year old full synthetics sitting in the shed. I gotta thank you, those lab analysis runs are $45 each at Blackstone.
IN terms of old motor oil being bad for the engine, it still might have a good use in terms of using the old/expired oil on garden hand tool wooden handlers. For example using the old oil to preserver wooden handles of shovels, rakes, picks etc. or using the old/expired oil to preserver wood fences. I heard this from Google and from YouTune videos. It actually works and it a good cost effective alternative. By the way, great work with your video and tests... keep up the great work mate!
It's not that you are not providing valuable information for free. We appreciate all the time,effort, and money spent on our behalf. Yet life is short. 32 minutes is a lot longer when you're waiting for results.
Another great video. As I quickly stated and gave a quick handshake towards the end of Saturday at this year's PRI show, thank you for doing these great videos. I use your videos in my engine building and repair class.
Pierce brosnan for sure!! I grew up in the 90's 😎 Pennzoil platinum high mileage is my oil of choice and I can tell the additive package does fall out. So when the jug gets to about the 1 quart line, I shake it and whirl it around in the jug until it picks up all that stuff in the bottom then I pour the rest in.
I am not a car guy in the sense that I work on my vehicle or do any kind of racing, however I was fascinated by the fact that motor oil "gets old"... considering that its base product is about 6,500 years old to begin with (Biblically). I know the raw product from the ground goes though dozens of processes before it is bottled for vehicle use, but have always used whatever I had on the self, no matter its age thinking "it's already thousands of years old, how can it hurt?" What an eyeopener. Thanks! (PS: I am "that guy" who shakes up a gallon of milk container, each time before using it too!)
I am a James Bond fan and i like Sean Connery and Roger Moore, as for the early and later years car it was DB5 not a DB6 andone of the most iconic Aston Martins to date.
How cool is it that there are people in the world that do stuff like this? So sweet to take care of dad like that:) And if we made it to the end of the video, does that mean we are geeks?
Another great video! Thanks for what you are doing. A couple ideas for new content - explain differences between API, Ilsac, ACEA, and all of the OEM specific oil standards out there. It’s tough for the best DIYers to understand the difference. Also - why do European brand cars need special oil? Just a suggestion! Thanks again and great content!
I think we can all agree that Sir Connery is the GOAT, and that Aston Martin was 🔥…. Buuuuuuuut Unpopular Opinion: Danial Craig is my favorite. Thanks for doing this test. Interesting as always!
ANOTHER great test FILLED with information, BUT. Also raises a few new questions. Since it appears to prove that Motor oil DOES go bad with age. Should we now be asking the Mfgrs to start putting a "born on" and "use by" date on the containers? And how would that affect the "bulk" oil that for instance oil change places might sometimes have in storage for the long term? And how do you know how old the oil is your getting from them? Does the length and frequency of the shaking have any effect? Should repair equipment manufacturers start producing "oil shaking" machines? I think I'm gonna start looking for old "paint-shaking" machines! Inquiring minds want to know!
@@oneninerniner3427 Oh "I get it". The point IS, How do we know that it's AT the point where the additives are falling out without being tested? We have no idea (right now) HOW old the oil we are looking at on the shelf IS. And, how long does it take to GET to that point? Looks like FAR more testing needs to be done. Wouldn't YOU like to know just how old the oil you're buying IS?
Thanks for this informative video, I wish you had left in more of the shaken vs. unshaken of the new oil. While we could see some additives improving with shaking in some reports, other reports had the additive levels off screen. The new Mobil 1 wasn't that impressive in the foam test
Great video and very informative. Thanks very much! Definitely getting rid of all that old oil. However, is there a difference on shaking vs not shaking NEW oil that hasn't expired?
Very cool. I run some mowers with large (for air cooled) engines that need an oil that can keep up with the heat and vibration. This is the first of your videos Ive seen but it wont be the last. BTW. Have you ever seen how paint shaking machines work? They rotate back and forth rather than move up and down. Ive found that kind of motion does the most work for the effort and might save you a tired arm the next time oil ( or anything else) needs mixing.
A recommended practice would be to check the packing date or better the refining/ fill date on any oil upon delivery prior to using How old is too old? My guess would be 24month maximum. Some smaller blenders may run batches and then inventory. Especially viscosities that are not main stream.
Wow Water Ended up in sealed Plastic bottles from heat and cold cycles and the oxidation value decreased and the additive package depleted interesting results from the start Lake 16:40 @The Motor Oil Geek
Worked in hydro generating station built by the United States bureau reclamation, we used shell turbo 68 & 32 in our bearing baths for the turbines that were connected with a pipe gallery to a huge vented filtered and unfiltered tanks, we moved the unfiltered thru a high pressure filter and reused it for over 25 years no problem.
Fascinating video and test! I had kind of suspected that the oil suffered from 'chemical aging' but had no idea it was that severe! It was also really interesting to see how the bottle 'breathing' caused that much moisture contamination. I couldn't remember so I checked the API and the SF designation was in use from 1980-1988 so that M1 can was fairly old. If you think that gear oil smells bad the 'limited slip' differential additive is worse. I spilled some once adding it and the smell lingered forever in my garage. The old 'Sperm Whale Oil' engine oil additive was nasty too. Same as the old time 'whale lamp oil'. They used that additive in the '60's and early '70's as an HP engine anti scuff additive. I believe it was banned for use in the early '70's because whales were put on the endangered species list. I picked up a can of the 'Chrysler Hi-Performance Parts' version at a swap meet 'for display'.
If you think the various limited slip additives are bad (The GM branded stuff was always the worst of the bunch as far as reek goes!), try a whiff (or DON'T!) of the supercharger lube fluid used in the reservoirs of older (maybe the new ones as well??) Eaton and Magnusson blowers (like the one on top of my old T-Bird SC). Truly wretch inducing!
In high school, I worked in a gas station, a full service gas station. That was 1982-83. The switch from cans to plastic bottles happened while I was there. If all brands switched around that time or not I dont know but its close. It's a safe bet any oil in a can is 40 years old. You could probably nail the date a little closer with the API ratings. Plus, I think they used different ratings like "MS" from around 1970 on back. Anyway if motor oil is in a can, use it for a display. Oh we had to always, put the new oil on the back of the shelf. That way you didn't have old cans sitting on the back of the shelf. At the time I thought that was dumb. 😆
Wow. Thank you very much. Interesting and I liked how you answered common practical questions using scientific approch. You won't find such answers in tribology textbooks. 😊
That gear oil would have destroyed a rearend in short order and would have had it blowing out seals and all kinds of stuff probably. I'm also surprised/not surprised to find out there was water in some of the oil. Thats really good to know. Thank you for this test.
![Top 10 Motor Oil Questions Answered [by a Certified Lubrication Specialist]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mr07y1H3U7c/mqdefault.jpg)
The old oil info is interesting but everyone came here to see if they should be shaking the new oil they are buying. That wasn't really covered at all. But if you pause on the data sheet, you can see that YES, the New shaken oil had a much higher additive content than the New non-shaken sample.
So YES, shake your new oil before pouring it.
I cannot thank you enough. That is the exact information I hoped to find when I clicked on this video after reading it's misleading title.
Yes, same here. The video was great, but I was curious about the new oil.
I'd also be curious about one year old oil. I'm sure there's a lot of places are selling oil from the shelf that's a year old.
@marinetechknj Good point on the year old. But if the "new" had already settled, year old definitely needs shaken good. All of this honestly just makes me wonder why the hell oil doesn't say to "shake well" on it?????
some oils have debris on bottom, you should not shake it
Thank you
On the topic of old oil, in the '70s I went to Sears with my dad with our own container and you could buy bulk oil. If I recall their top of the line was called "Spectrum", cost about 30 cents a quart and really smelled bad. At the time I didn't know what the smell was until I became a hot rodder, bought my first Crane Cam and the pint bottle of oil additive they included had the same stink. It was the high pressure zinc etc additives!
Sulphur is the stinky additive.
Did it smell like armpit sweat? That's what the extreme pressure additives in hypoid gear oil smell like.
@@TyphoonVstromyup. Zinc is odourless.
not zinc , they use that in deodorants ...
@@christopherstaples6758 not deodorant.. antiperspirant
New oil from Pennzoil had additive fallout in bottom of container. Sent pictures and emailed Shell. Their response was all new oil needs to be shaken heavily before used.
LOL
I've been shaking it upside down for 50 years, but They said the same, except basically turn it upside down and shake it well and disperse as much back into suspension as possible.
Did you ask them where it says so on their bottles? I doubt they have instructions.
'additive fallout ' The real test isn't just testing in a lab, it's how different are the two oils after about a week running in an engine? No matter how 'sparkly' the new oil seems, you can bet you'll have a much harder time telling them apart after a week or two, and for the next few months of use. The old oil being put through a sump pump correctly and the new oil doing the same and getting worked will probably put them on very similar paths.
If the old oil is old enough, you also have to check for additive changes over time and similar factors, not just general aging.
I had the same experience with several different new jugs of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, but I wasn't able to get it to fully remix by shaking it. To be fair, the last time I bought Pennzoil was in early 2022 and they may have improved their formula since then, but the fact that your video in 2010 and my last experience with Pennzoil in 2022 shows that this has been going on for 12+ years doesn't give me much hope that they fixed anything.
I have leaned now in my 50's that lubricants are what I'm interested in. You're living my life, Lake! Good stuff!
It’s cool that you’re actually willing to share your knowledge of oil to the general public like this. Most people in your position would try to keep things a “race team secret”.
Thanks!
@@themotoroilgeek a BIG flaw in your test.. we'd expect to use the whole container for a change.. you just skimmed the top off.. shaken vs stirred.. I've always given bottles a shake old or new.. iny 50+ years working with engines .. so a 👎
Who says he doesn't have secrets?
He's zero BS too, nice guy.
@@Errol.C-nz
So make a video and prove him wrong. Otherwise keep your 50 years of lawnmower engine experience to yourself. 🙄
I love this channel because it feels like only the people watching this would be as excited about that foam test as Lake was.
We are a select few...
So... whature gettin at is that there will be 0 modern engines surviving the pocalypse. Well... dang. Get a horse and say goodbye to the gassers, not even making alcohol will save the combustion engine. Not enough model t's left for parts, so nothing sloppy enough to work with the junk oil will survive. Stock up on bearings, rods, and be prepared to rebuild many a motor if you are mad maxing it!
Thanks!
@@HawkeyeMobileAutoRepair Perhaps a Toyota pickup, just changed the transmission oil today. It's an 86 and I'd bet it was only its second change ever. It also has way over 260k miles, in the last decade the previous owner also didn't fix the odometer so god knows what millage all the drivetrain has. But yes the engine is the one question mark we would all have.
What about sending the sludge at the bottom of bottle off for testing? It would be neat to see what actually separated out of the oil. Does one additive separate more readily than others?
This is a great idea... 🎯
Might the settled material be dirt the refiner did not get out? Any way it would be interesting to know.
@@davidhair8295I don't think you get how refined these oils are. There is not dirt in there.
I would imagine each additive would have a different rate of falling out of suspension.
He talked that in his previous video
We love learning from Lake Speed, thanks for making great content. The foam coming off the old gear oil at the end demonstrates the importance of changing an older vehicle’s (often forgotten) gear oil. Yet another example of how maintenance matters.
Thanks!
Just imagine all of that 'beautiful' foam as the only thing between the ring & pinion in your new, custom, full floater, Wavetrac diffed, BIG $$$$$ 9" rear axle, on a blazing hot, open track day.
OUCH!!
Great job Lake! Always "Shaken, not stirred!" -James Bond
Thanks!
💯🤣💯🤣💯🤣🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
My natural instinct when preparing to shake something that has “settled” is to turn the container upside down prior to shaking. How odd it was to see you shake it “right side up”.
Yeah, I turned the video off when he started doing that
Yea, I fast forwarded past that to keep from punching my screen.
I thought I was the only 1
Let’s see that Wellington
I think he relies on his daddy for more then just old oil !
I love your videos very informative and easy to understand, "Oil: shaken not stirred; Stirring bruises the additives."
Lake, great stuff here. Over my 50+ years making a living turning wrenches, this is information that dispels a lot that I've heard over the years. The moisture intrusion factor with plastic containers also applies to brake fluid that's in those type containers. Personally, I buy only the amount of brake fluid that I need for a certain project and I date the container when I've opened it. Living in Florida with humidity through the roof, I remember the days when I first started out in a small shop, where that metal gallon jug of shop use brake fluid would sit opened until it was used up. This was insanity, come to think of it, but many of us didn't know. That kind of info wasn't as easily found back in the early 1970s, plus the guy that owned the shop was cheap. He didn't waste anything. I never used that shop fluid in my car because of the fact that I didn't want fluid that might have trash in it from it always being open. Kind of a common sense thing with a hydraulic system that's critical like brakes. The small containers of brake fluid were all metal back in the day with a thick metal seal in the top, under the screw on cap. This makes me wonder if an unopened metal container of brake fluid degrades?
Thanks for a great and informative video, Lake. I remember seeing your dad when he used to campaign that T-bird. I'm glad that he's still having fun with it.
Thanks 👍
Same here.
Entropy applies to everything, even that can of brake fluid
Brake fluid has many multiples of times greater hygroscopic tendency (the proclivity to take on moisture from the atmosphere), due to it's chemical makeup, than engine oil or gear oil.
It makes me wonder WHY any of the top tier/high end/ultra high boiling point racing brake fluids are EVER sold in plastic bottles at all.
Then I realized that since they are designed for a racing environment, the whole bottle is going to be used very quickly for very frequent bleeds and full flushes once opened.
But, given the greater permeability of the plastic bottles, I do wonder whether said race teams actually look for the freshest 'build' date on the plastic bottles they purchase (or are supplied by their sponsors) in order to not first start with a moisture laden product which has sat on a shelf, and taken on water.
That said, once it is opened, or even if it sits unopened long enough, even metal containers will allow some moisture into the fluid, IF it is LONG past it's date of production.
I owned a /90 T-Bird SC manual a long time ago, so yeah, I always rooted for the Ford drivers way back when I still followed the roundy 'round crews at all. 😉
@@Fordworldrallyfan You're not kidding about the hygroscopic tendency on brake fluid (non-silicone based).
When I bought my stock car it came without calipers. I assUmed they ran DOT5 silicone brake fluid, so I ordered some. Right before I was ready to pour some in and start bleeding, I wanted to make sure before I REALLY messed up.
I filled a clear water bottle about 1/4 full with the unknown brake fluid. And filled a shotglass 1/2 full with DOT5. Filled both of them up with water.
The shotglass had a definite line of the water floating on top. Purple tint on the bottom, clear on the top.
The water bottle mixed up PERFECT with 3 parts water 1 part brake fluid. Zero water or fluid floated to the top or settled to the bottom.
Needless to say, I'm glad I ran that test before I screwed up and mixed in DOT5 with DOT4.
I wanted to run a test and see how much water the brake fluid could absorb before getting fully saturated, and just never got around to it.
It's safe to say that the old oil should be used as shelf-art in the garage... nothing more. Thanks for doing this!
The problem IS, how "old" can the oil be before it starts going bad? 6 months? 1 year? 3 years?. Right now we just don't know.
EXPIRED: When Does New Oil Go Bad?
ruclips.net/video/E1T4XFPgBeo/видео.html
@@OneAceracer ahem, "we" should be "I"
@@TheRealSykx So, someone does know?
It's also a great fire starter!
I was helping a friend make room in his garage for his new Silverado. We found maybe 10-15 opened quarts of motor oil. I used you videos as justification to dispose of every single one. Some were from the 90s.
Right on!
We truly appreciate your sharing what you learn in your experiments & tests! Thank you, sir!
Thank you!
Thanks for giving us the information that we mortals need to help our engines last as long as they possibly can......the costs of cars has dictated we make them last as long as possible
Even though nowadays theyre built to fail.
Been religious on oil changes on the wifes car,yet at 93k its showing signs its going to need a timing chain here soon.
@@MrTheHillfolkoften it's difficult to convince a woman to buy something less appealing like a VW built time bomb (only speculation).
I bought a NA 6 cylinder subaru that gets just as good fuel economy as a small 4 pot engine because I know how to coast n feather the throttle.
A few women I know race there cars up to an intersection then slam on the brakes.
Also I don't slam an auto from reverse outta the drive into drive while still moving...
Truly sympathise with married men... it's heartbreaking.
Thanks
@@peterlattimore6013 You need to hit those high rpms every once in a while, of course only when it reaches operating temperatures to clean the carbon build up if it's a direct injection engine.
@@LazyBoyA1 for sure, to avoid the the carbon accumulating on the inlet value stem and port. However I don't have the issue as much as many, as I drive mainly hiway speeds with limited idle time in traffic due to working anti social hours during the night (never sitting idle in traffic).
Sure is refreshing to see some science backing up the claims. Tanks for all the hard work!
Watch Project Farm. His tests are top notch.
API SF/CC as shown at the beginning when openning the box, is a category that was obsolete more than a decade ago. It is noat a controlled category....Real Expert
Thank you, Lake! This channel has taught me so much.
Thank you so much!
I liked your frother test, not sure what that says about me.........
Mobile One sold me on full synthetic oil in 1998. I had a brand new vehicle then, and the first oil change at 1500 miles was done during a cold snap where morning temperatures when I started the vehicle were in the -20 degrees Fahrenheit. The difference in noise and cranking speed was VERY noticeable. The vehicle came with traditional motor oil from the factory, but I have used full synthetic ever since.
Sean Connery is my favorite James Bond as well.
Rock on!
Either I'm a time traveler, or this video was reuploaded from the other day. 😂
Great information! Now, we have definitive proof that oils age even if they aren't used.
Glad it was helpful!
Glad to see you use HPL oil products. I’ve heard very good things about them and have used their products a little. Your use of their stuff is an independent statement of their quality.
Wow, very surprising and impressive results! Thanks for the doing the scientific testing as solid proof!
Thank you!
HPL Lubricants ! So glad you went to them. This is what all companies should strive for in terms of performance, customer service, innovation. I had a question about a product once . The person I was initially talking to couldn't answer. She transfered me to the CEO. He was great. Wow, try that with Elon! 😂
The anti-foaming qualities of that HPL gear oil was kind of mind blowing. HPL has been on my radar for a couple a years now, thinking I’m going to finally pull the trigger on some.
I finally pulled the trigger on it a few months ago put their gear oil in my transam. Will probably switch my motor oil over next.
I just realized HPL makes oil for Reher Morrison as well.
@@deadstartcrashkit i need to ask them for some gear oil without the LSD additive so i can use it in my manual transmissions.
The best quote from Mr. speed, I will take with me for the rest of my life, it's so true: "two minutes seems a lot longer when you're shaking something"..
The gear oil on the right would have done Guinness proud if it had been beer.
Great review and superb lab testing.
Thank you!
Years ago I worked for a fab shop that was heavily involved in various racing formats. I got hired around the time they were in the middle of a huge fight over Valvoline oil and an oil foaming issue. Both oil tests and further experiments had shown that the oil had issues with foaming to the point it aerated the entire oil supply in the pan. It prompted both a sponsorship change and a new oil. This was in the early 80's and the 'new' oil was Kendall GT, of which they started running solely their 20W50 racing oil and a synthetic gear lube from Pace Lubricants in TX.
In the shop, on other non-race vehicles we used either Mobil1 or Castrol depending on the vehicle.
I do remember taking home the buckets from the gear oil, which we went through roughly a 5 gallon bucket ever two weeks, and finding the bottom of those buckets with a thick scum on the bottom. The gear lube was a mix of Wolfs head and Kendall.
The oil samples we sent out back then were all used oil in failed engines but foaming was a big issue even when the oils ere new.
Comparing it to the new oils isn't any sort of comparison, the new oil is always going to be better but on most run of the mill daily drivers from back in the day, the oil they ran then is likely good enough still today in those old engines.
Four years ago I stopped driving a 1980 Ford with 369k on it, it went its entire life running on 10W30 Havoline oil that was acquired back in 1980. I still have several unopened cases of it.
It did just fine, it was good for it then and I never changed, and never bought new oil, I just used what was on hand. It was still running when I sold it with zero issues in a 300 I6 Ford engine. It simply didn't need anything better to keep it alive all those years.
Would new oil be 'better' , I have no doubts, but the old oil was good enough and it saved me a ton of money over the years and likely had no detrimental effects in the later years with that truck.
I also have 12 cases of unopened 1985 issue Havoline in the round plastic bottles.
It was 10W40 oil supplied through a sponsor at the time as a 'gift' of sorts. I never had anything that ran 10W40 so it sat on the shelf. Its in most of my oil cans around the shop and in a few lawn mowers that are likely more than 50 years old.
A lot boils down to any oil is better than no oil, and for old technology vehicles and engines, old oil on the shelf is likely fine for normal use with annual oil changes.
I certainly wouldn't put it in my newer vehicles, but the rating alone would prevent that.
I thought if the oil container was sealed and shaken once in a while, the oil would still be ok for 1-10 years.. I am really surprised. I received couple of cases of oil from my father after his passing.... Now I am just going to recycle it. I cannot afford my current car to blow up... Great content...
I'm glad it helped!
You could use it in small engines, like lawnmower, tiller, etc.
Oil standards have changed a lot. The oil itself, depending how it was stored, can be quite close to how it left the factory, but that doesn't at all guarantee it's usable for a modern vehicle engine.
@@roberttroxell4006i definitely agree with this, or even used in a converted diesel engine
Sean Connery… the best 007.
Awesome video Lake, learned a ton…also liked the guitar riff!
Thank you! Another highly informative video. I never would have even considered shaking oil.
Glad it was helpful!
As an old dog, im really enjoying your channel learning new tricks I want to say thank you! I still turn my own wrenches but things have changed. I’m almost double nickels so things have changed a lot in my years. I appreciate you doing all these breakdowns and explaining the the W’a! And it’s also nice to say Heidi ho from the other side of , North Carolina.
Glad to help
Sean Connery was the best by far. Engine oil is endlessly facanating and often overlooked . Great videos. Keep up the work cheers 👍 what about look a oils used in a F1 engine ?
Thank you!
I started shaking oil cans before pouring because of a failure in UH-1 helicopters. There were several failures of transmission bearings and analysis showed that the anti foaming additive had settled out and the oil had foamed excessively
THINK, Really think about the question!! The oil is more shaken in use than could ever be in the can!!
LOL, somebody gets it...
Sean Connery because he was a man's man type of James Bond. No sliding down hills on a Cello. Glad you sent these off for proper analysis.
Love your channel! Very cool info for an old engineer like me!! Keep up the great work!
Thanks for watching!
Excellent info about storing and using old motor oil. Many thanks.
Great video! You have confirmed the theory with practice! This is wonderful!
Glad you think so!
Great stuff, thanks for your time, effort and humor!
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is a very entertaining & fun video Lake.
Thanks!
I find your videos interesting as I'm a retired CAT&CUMMINGS knuckle buster and this industry has been using oil analysis at least fifty years.
I like you really get a good laugh visiting Walmart and walk down the oil isle; know wonder people get confused!!! Sense sometime in the mid/70s have used only two brands of motor oil in everything I own including lawnmowers,motorcycles, cars and trucks. And the brands will probably shock sum people; Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella 15W40. Currently I only use Shell Rotella 5W40 synthetic in everything!!! And for the disbelievers I ran a 3.5 hp B&S (Briggs & Stratton) push mower on 15W40 for twenty five years!!! Oh I just read that Kholer Motor Company in their name brand oil is actually Amsoil.
Love your enthusiasm Lake. Also, back in the day, every time I talked to your father, he was always a joy to talk with.
I had some old semi synthetic Valvoline 10W/40 that was about 15 years old. My neighbor was getting ready to leave for a long drive to see a friend that was 300 miles away in her 7 year old Kia. I asked her if her boyfriend had checked the car over before she left and she said no. So I checked under the hood and found she needed some coolant for the overflow and the engine oil was about 2 quarts low. She didn't have any oil, and I didn't want to just give her my fresh Mobil 1, so I gave her 2 of these old Valvoline quarts. Funny, her first remark was how much better and quiet the engine sounded.... what a surprise.... right?
I did look inside the bottles and there really wasn't anything in the bottom to my surprise. But I felt that having something in there that would lubricate was far better than not having something that would lubricate.
She got back and said everything ran fine. But I highly recommended that she get her boyfriend to service her car, or to go get the oil changed, and perhaps check the oil level sometimes and get it changed at least once a year on her birthday or something.
Thanks for sharing
just so you know Kia Hyndai dealership use valvoline.if container was closed no problem.
@@marlu6373i thought they now use shell?. maybe this is regional thing but we got Shell Helix Ultra with Hyundai label from dealership
@@marlu6373 Actually, dealerships use whatever brand of oil is the best deal for them which meets the minimum specifications for their brand of vehicle. They may exist, but I've never seen a dealer that only uses the car manufacturers brand of oils.
Also, the OEM's brand of oils also changes from year to year as well. It may be Valvoline this year and Shell something the next year. You never really know what brand of oil is in that OEM bottle of oil. But what you do know is that whatever brand of oil is in it, that that lubricant will meet all of that manufacturers requirements.
#1=Sean Connery
#2=Roger Moore
#3=Daniel Craig
#4=Pierce Brosnan
the rest were just okay
(by the way, you responded to my comment on the last video with this link, thank you! good vid)
Sean get my vote too. Great car!!!
Great testing Lake!
Thanks!
Connery for sure. The Bond reference earned a like.
Could've taken them to a paint company and had the mechanically shaken. Way easier and better mixing.
Thanks!
this is a goldmine of info, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I think the bottles should have been shook upside down, that would have helped dislodge the settled out additives. I never suspected oil would go bad, and the upside down shaking and pouring off, and adding more oil and shaking again is what I would do to get the last of the good stuff out of the bottle. A stick or an artists brush would have worked better in retrospect.
I like these videos!
Thanks for watching!
Doesn't make any difference. As far as dislodging the additives at the botom, think of it like this. Turning it upside down simply means you are adding the force of gravity. Now, you know how strong the force of gravity is. You live with it everyday. Now, think of the forces involved when you shake the liquid. Way, way more. Think if you were a miniature you, inside the bottle. if you turned the bottle upside down, you would float down to the bottom (top) by the force of gravity. Now, if somebody shook that bottle up and down vigorously, you would be banging around inside the bottle so hard you'd be knocked out, right? That would happen if the bottle was upside down or not, right?
I found an old havoline 10w40 conv. Case and it had grey specs and scales of zink?? I shook it up and used it in an old dodge . It still ran 300,000 plus towing and highway. The running gear wore out first.
First time at this channel. "I love ya, but I'm not shakin' it for ya"!!! HILARIOUS!! Now subscribed!
LOL, thanks!
Wow. I would’ve got this wrong on a test.
Thanks. The water in the old Valvoline bottle really shocked me!
@@themotoroilgeekYeah, we tend to not think PE as being permeable, but it is indeed.
This test actually held water 😅
@themotoroilgeek whats your thoughts on using rotella t4 15w40 for a break in on street car? Mountune for example likes using vr1 conventional sae50 but that to me seems to thick on cold start, i live in vermont so its not hot.
My first guess guess was that components in the old oil have become oxidated and precipitated out of suspension over time. Oxidated products are likely to be more polar and be denser. That would not seem to be kind of thing you want in your new oil and more like something you want to drain out in an oil change. It could be an anticorrosive agent(s) that have been consumed by oxidation over time with no use and no longer available to protect a running engine. Shake it up all you want and get all that junk all in suspension, the same elements may be there, but not in the same forms found in the new oil. My sentiment would be to recycle the old oil and just by new oil as indicated here. This affirms the idea that if my car sits in a garage a lot, I should still change my oil after a year or so in spite of milage.
When I observed you vigorously shaking the oil containers (after you made a comment about Sean Connery as James Bond), it reminded me that Sean Connery's character in the James Bond movies only preferred his Vodka Martinis to be "shaken, not stirred!"
Absolutely!
That’s why the whole James Bind bit came up.
I just found a case of oil so old it's still in cardboard bottles! Im still watching the video, vut indoubt ill be putting it in my daily driver (1994 Chevy 4x4 that I bought new). That 350 runs like new even after 290,000 miles, with an oil/lube every 3000 miles.
**Edited**
After watching the full video, it definitely reinforced my opinion of not using the old oil in my truck! I'll just mix it with the hydraulic oil I spray on the underside and insides of the doors and cab corners to prevent rust from all the damn salt on the roads in the Northeast winters.
I found a couple unopened cans of Conoco API service SF 10W30 oil at a garage sale for $1 each.. I didnt buy them, although it was likely superior to the newest service SP oil as far as zinc content, but likely is lacking in terms of the rest of the additive package.
ZDDP additive is available, so I use that along with with modern oil in flat tappet cam engines.
Ive been in automotive repair for 52 years, so I go by my experience rather than what any "tribologist" says.
Glad to see I'm not the only one to use oil for rust prevention. South Dakota here.
trying to keep my old bug running as long as possible, super helpful video.
Glad it helped!
I'm guessing it runs on beetle juice?
Great Video!!! Old oils definitely cannot be used in the engine because they have water and a high level of oxidation. But the ZDDP level of the old Mobil is incredible, more than 2500
Thank you!
I always heard that pure racing oils had very little calcium in them in order to keep the high rev foaming down to a minimum, because it 'competes' with the other anti-wear/anti-friction additives (ZDDP, any type moly, titanium, tungsten, etc.) and that they did not need it (nor the high starting TBN that element helps make possible) since they are never in the sump (dry or wet) for very long in a race car.
Yet, the Mobil 1 RACING (at least the last time I looked at the specs) does have ridiculous amounts of calcium in it's additive package.
Does anyone know the logic behind why this is done?? Mr. Speed?
Great video to answer my (group also) question about whether shaking old containers of motor oil would be effective in recombining the oil chem pack that has fallen out of solution over time. I appreciate how you use scientific control protocols in providing true empirical results instead of opinion and urban myth. I look forward to the video followup on your results using the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Synthetic motor oil.
I’m glad it helped!
Good to know and a must see for anyone in mechanical maintenance. !!!
Thanks!
More of this PLEASE!!!!
Thanks!
Roger Moore and Sean Connery are my fav's. As to the oil, great info. The only thing I would have changed is shaking them inverted.
Timothy Dalton's bond was amazing especially after Roger Moore's films...
I buy oil on sale, so ya, I've seen residue on the bottom. And this is a fantastic upload, I've always wondered about my 5 year old full synthetics sitting in the shed. I gotta thank you, those lab analysis runs are $45 each at Blackstone.
Thanks for another great video. I always shake the bottle but I guess it's been for nothing 😆. That hpl refused to hold air. Incredible
Thanks for watching!
IN terms of old motor oil being bad for the engine, it still might have a good use in terms of using the old/expired oil on garden hand tool wooden handlers. For example using the old oil to preserver wooden handles of shovels, rakes, picks etc. or using the old/expired oil to preserver wood fences. I heard this from Google and from YouTune videos. It actually works and it a good cost effective alternative. By the way, great work with your video and tests... keep up the great work mate!
It's not that you are not providing valuable information for free. We appreciate all the time,effort, and money spent on our behalf.
Yet life is short.
32 minutes is a lot longer when you're waiting for results.
And how long is the football game you watch?
Another great video. As I quickly stated and gave a quick handshake towards the end of Saturday at this year's PRI show, thank you for doing these great videos. I use your videos in my engine building and repair class.
Thanks you! I really appreciate it.
Glad it was helpful!
Connery for king of bond, and thanks for proving my point ;) been saying this for two decades.
Any time!
Pierce brosnan for sure!! I grew up in the 90's 😎 Pennzoil platinum high mileage is my oil of choice and I can tell the additive package does fall out. So when the jug gets to about the 1 quart line, I shake it and whirl it around in the jug until it picks up all that stuff in the bottom then I pour the rest in.
Love the content Lake, we always come away more knowledgeable for your lab work
Thanks!
I am not a car guy in the sense that I work on my vehicle or do any kind of racing, however I was fascinated by the fact that motor oil "gets old"... considering that its base product is about 6,500 years old to begin with (Biblically). I know the raw product from the ground goes though dozens of processes before it is bottled for vehicle use, but have always used whatever I had on the self, no matter its age thinking "it's already thousands of years old, how can it hurt?" What an eyeopener. Thanks! (PS: I am "that guy" who shakes up a gallon of milk container, each time before using it too!)
I will now store my motor oil upside down.
😂
Makes total sense… except maybe now all the settled additives will be in the bottle cap in your hand, as you’re pour the oil in. 🤭😂🤣🤦🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Shake the container and flip it over every couple of months.
Well, you all may have saved me half an hour. I'm gonna watch the video anyway
Your oil pump in your vehicle will mix it up for you anyways just from being circulated.
Very informative video and thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with your viewing audience.
So nice of you
I am a James Bond fan and i like Sean Connery and Roger Moore, as for the early and later years car it was DB5 not a DB6 andone of the most iconic Aston Martins to date.
Exactly. But I think he said that just to make us comment. 😂
How cool is it that there are people in the world that do stuff like this? So sweet to take care of dad like that:) And if we made it to the end of the video, does that mean we are geeks?
Thanks!
It was actually a Aston martin DB5. I still love the channel. Lol
Thanks! I won’t forget it was as DB5 now…
@@themotoroilgeek The DB6 is a better car than the DB5.
@@kevinmanns7170 ..And lets not forget the Lotus that gave Bond that ultimate secret agent swank.
The Richard Holdener of lubricaton, love the videos. Honestly surprised that I haven't seen your videos sooner.
Another great video! Thanks for what you are doing. A couple ideas for new content - explain differences between API, Ilsac, ACEA, and all of the OEM specific oil standards out there. It’s tough for the best DIYers to understand the difference. Also - why do European brand cars need special oil? Just a suggestion! Thanks again and great content!
Thanks for the idea!
I think we can all agree that Sir Connery is the GOAT, and that Aston Martin was 🔥….
Buuuuuuuut
Unpopular Opinion: Danial Craig is my favorite.
Thanks for doing this test. Interesting as always!
More HPL stuff please. Great products
ANOTHER great test FILLED with information, BUT.
Also raises a few new questions. Since it appears to prove that Motor oil DOES go bad with age.
Should we now be asking the Mfgrs to start putting a "born on" and "use by" date on the containers? And how would that affect the "bulk" oil that for instance oil change places might sometimes have in storage for the long term? And how do you know how old the oil is your getting from them?
Does the length and frequency of the shaking have any effect? Should repair equipment manufacturers start producing "oil shaking" machines? I think I'm gonna start looking for old "paint-shaking" machines!
Inquiring minds want to know!
You don't get it huh? Don't bother. If it's at the point that it has to be shaken, it's probably no good anyway.
@@oneninerniner3427 Oh "I get it". The point IS, How do we know that it's AT the point where the additives are falling out without being tested? We have no idea (right now) HOW old the oil we are looking at on the shelf IS.
And, how long does it take to GET to that point?
Looks like FAR more testing needs to be done. Wouldn't YOU like to know just how old the oil you're buying IS?
Same Sean Connery - epic voice perfect for the part had the hair and dignified appearance
He wore a toupee from the beginning !!
Thanks for this informative video, I wish you had left in more of the shaken vs. unshaken of the new oil. While we could see some additives improving with shaking in some reports, other reports had the additive levels off screen. The new Mobil 1 wasn't that impressive in the foam test
Great video and very informative. Thanks very much! Definitely getting rid of all that old oil. However, is there a difference on shaking vs not shaking NEW oil that hasn't expired?
No. We saw no difference in the new oils shaken or un-shaken.
Very cool. I run some mowers with large (for air cooled) engines that need an oil that can keep up with the heat and vibration. This is the first of your videos Ive seen but it wont be the last.
BTW. Have you ever seen how paint shaking machines work? They rotate back and forth rather than move up and down. Ive found that kind of motion does the most work for the effort and might save you a tired arm the next time oil ( or anything else) needs mixing.
Thanks for watching. Using a paint shaker would have mixed it better, but it would not have changed the outcome.
Excellent video! Love it! I would love to see how Amsoil gear oil does on the foam test😊
Thanks for the suggestion!
Lake your videos are great! I keep coming back to watch what’s new.
Awesome! Thank you!
Very educational visuals at the Lab !
Thanks!
A recommended practice would be to check the packing date or better the refining/ fill date on any oil upon delivery prior to using How old is too old? My guess would be 24month maximum. Some smaller blenders may run batches and then inventory. Especially viscosities that are not main stream.
Connery and Craig are my top Bonds. Connery is the CLASSIC movie bond, Craig brought the essence of the books to life.
Good point!
Wow Water Ended up in sealed Plastic bottles from heat and cold cycles and the oxidation value decreased and the additive package depleted interesting results from the start Lake 16:40 @The Motor Oil Geek
oh wow thank you soooooooo much for this.... this was so impressive and nice to see the results... science is so fascinating
Glad you enjoyed it!
Worked in hydro generating station built by the United States bureau reclamation, we used shell turbo 68 & 32 in our bearing baths for the turbines that were connected with a pipe gallery to a huge vented filtered and unfiltered tanks, we moved the unfiltered thru a high pressure filter and reused it for over 25 years no problem.
I just remembered shaking my oil bottles when I was young… someone must have told me to do that 🤔
Fascinating video and test! I had kind of suspected that the oil suffered from 'chemical aging' but had no idea it was that severe! It was also really interesting to see how the bottle 'breathing' caused that much moisture contamination. I couldn't remember so I checked the API and the SF designation was in use from 1980-1988 so that M1 can was fairly old.
If you think that gear oil smells bad the 'limited slip' differential additive is worse. I spilled some once adding it and the smell lingered forever in my garage. The old 'Sperm Whale Oil' engine oil additive was nasty too. Same as the old time 'whale lamp oil'. They used that additive in the '60's and early '70's as an HP engine anti scuff additive. I believe it was banned for use in the early '70's because whales were put on the endangered species list. I picked up a can of the 'Chrysler Hi-Performance Parts' version at a swap meet 'for display'.
Thanks for sharing
If you think the various limited slip additives are bad (The GM branded stuff was always the worst of the bunch as far as reek goes!), try a whiff (or DON'T!) of the supercharger lube fluid used in the reservoirs of older (maybe the new ones as well??) Eaton and Magnusson blowers (like the one on top of my old T-Bird SC).
Truly wretch inducing!
@@Fordworldrallyfan The limited slip additives are actually a good thing.
I started shaking my oil at 17....just figured its been sitting upright since the bottle was filled, and could use a little mixing. I'm 65 now.
You've been shaking bottles since before Mobil 1 made oil!
Shaking extends life ~ science.
In high school, I worked in a gas station, a full service gas station. That was 1982-83. The switch from cans to plastic bottles happened while I was there. If all brands switched around that time or not I dont know but its close. It's a safe bet any oil in a can is 40 years old. You could probably nail the date a little closer with the API ratings. Plus, I think they used different ratings like "MS" from around 1970 on back. Anyway if motor oil is in a can, use it for a display.
Oh we had to always, put the new oil on the back of the shelf. That way you didn't have old cans sitting on the back of the shelf. At the time I thought that was dumb. 😆
Thanks for sharing
Wow. Thank you very much. Interesting and I liked how you answered common practical questions using scientific approch. You won't find such answers in tribology textbooks. 😊
Glad it was helpful!
That gear oil would have destroyed a rearend in short order and would have had it blowing out seals and all kinds of stuff probably. I'm also surprised/not surprised to find out there was water in some of the oil. Thats really good to know. Thank you for this test.
FF to 15:50 for results.
Well done sir,
Love your channel
The numbers and science behind it is amazing. Definitely love you going down to the lab