@js12278 Thank you so much for the recommendation! We will attempt to do our best to test the most popular ones. A channel with less than 1000 subscribers has a tight budget😔. Your comment and support really helps, so we appreciate it immensely! Don't forget to like and subscribe.😁
One thing I would suggest, despite the difficulty of doing so, is using oil heated to normal operating temps for the long-duration tests. The oil/filter media relationship changes very much with temperature.
@97marqedman, This is a great suggestion, we are looking into this for future videos, be sure to subscribe so you don't miss out on future content! Thanks for the support! Update: Make sure to go check out our new videos with the upgraded RIG.
As long as all other factors are the same, then it is a fairly realistic test, but it would be very awesome to see if there was any actual changes, like maybe the warmer oil able to carry some particulates through the filter.
I’ve seen many other videos on oil filters from various channels. Most of them just cut it open and examine the internals. Your guys’ video is the first review I’ve seen with actual performance testing. Very well made and informative. Would love to see more!
Yes, they examine the internals and criticize the materials used, but then never explain why the material difference matters. Even in this video, one of them had a plastic internal barrel instead of metal; if it's not a piece that handles stress to need the strength of metal, why is it assumed that metal is functionally any better?
I've been using Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic and aFram ultra filter fo 15 years perfect so far, and on a 2004 Ram 1500 i have 400,000 miles still running good..Great Video!!!
My vehicle maintenance is similar, vehicle having 310,000 miles. Please note, you do not have to use the high mileage every oil change. It has seal conditioners. So every other time is adequate for engines over 5 years old. Sometimes I use 1 quart of the high mileage with 4 quarts of full synthetic. I don't want to over condition the seals. But with 400,000 you are doing many things right...
A old acquaintance of mine once bought a 65 Biscayne because it ran really quiet. But it was gutless. Turns out tge quiet part was because the space under the valve covers was absolutely crammed with hardened sludge. He cleaned it up, started it up, And, Clatter-clatter-clatter-clatter. Probably never had an oil change. SMH
@Martin Burgos Hahaha I've been using the FRAM ultra for years and changing it every 7500 as well. Your car should be in top shape! Thanks for your comment and for supporting the channel🙂
Likewise. What’s more, I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic 0W-20 and their M1C-251A ‘cartridge style’ filter in my 2012 Camry SE, both of which are changed every 5,000 miles ON THE DOT. Nothing but the very best for my trusty steed!
This has been one the best actual testing of oil filters. Most other sites just cut them apart and give subjective opinions on their construction without any valid performance testing.
@@BrandRanks As an Engineer, I analyze all the facts possible before coming to a conclusion. Yes, there's still some questions that could be addressed. One that comes to mind is: What's the difference in each filter performance if the oil is changed every 5K, 7.5K, or 10K miles? Force Induction applications are more severe to oil as compared Natural Aspirated Engines. Would flow in FI be more important then NA engines? Some of these results may be significant or may not be discernable.
Those are great points and good ideas to figure out in future videos. Also make sure to watch the new video where we greatly improved our testing process with a bigger budget.
Yes they did an excellent job but you're also welcome to do those extra tests that you think are required or should be done instead of somebody else taking the time to do it you could be the one that doesn't instead of complaining about it so always remember people put the effort into making videos because that's the time that they have and that's what they're allowing themselves to do and when you go above that obviously you have the time to do that and the finances to do that and if you have to complain about somebody else doing something that you don't have the time or money to do well then you really don't have the right to be saying anything saying anything
@@FordBossMe I dont know why you took this comment personally. It wasn’t directed to you, even because you are not the only one that performers this kind of tests I ''complained' about, there are a lot of channels that do the same. You also are welcome to react in two different manners, attack me because of what I said or set this kind of video as a new standard (and go beyond) to enhance your content regarding oil filters. I'm a subscriber of your channel and I know for a fact that you do all kinds of videos about car maintenance, and in the end, for us (including you) as users and mechanics, we know that in the end, the number of pleats, the media material, the resistance of the can, none of this matters. What really matter is how well the filter actually perform, by testing the oil flow, restriction and filter capacity is what matters the most for me, and should it for you too.
@@contabelta you could be the factor and setting the standard for what you dislike as well You could have said great job guys keep it up instead of dragging your distaste for others lacking to your liking into it
The RUclips algorithm worked here. I’ve been searching for real filter testing for over a year now. I really appreciate the scientific method and getting to filter performance vs look like other channels. This is very Project Farm style testing. Video quality is also great. I hope this goes viral for you guys. A few suggestions for future testing as I think this could be big for your channel. As others have suggested, I’d test other brands including Amsoil, Napa Gold and Platinum (or WIX equivalent), Royal Purple, Purolator One and Boss, AC Delco Ultragaurd Gold. Since you have built such a good rig and have access to a lab I’d suggest some extra tests. You could do a filter efficiency test to see, over a fixed period of time, how much aluminum of various particle sizes gets filtered out. Would be interested to test at 20, 30, 40, 60, 100 micron - effectively creating an efficiency per particle size. For the particle capacity test it would be interesting to take the filters to when the bypass lifts (or the media fails) and to know the pressure that happens at. Keep up the awesome work.
Just goes to show you that Fram for all the haters out here that it’s a respectable filter. The best filter for you car is a clean one. Cannot stress that enough, clean filters work better and provide protection for a few dollars. Great video, now how do you convince people to change oil regularly when they don’t even know that the car takes oil. I’ve heard it time after time that “I didn’t know it took oil, I just put gas in it “.
@russell Stewart Thank you for the feedback. Your comment makes a huge difference especially for such a small channel. I've actually been running FRAM for years with absolutely no issues, so I agree that the most important thing is a clean filter!
I would never put the cheap standard Fram filter on any of my vehicles but that changed with the Ultra Synthetic filter. Very good quality at a decent price. I always run synthetic oils with either the Fram Ultras in my Subarus and the Wix XP in my diesel. You can waste money by changing the oil and filters more frequently if that gives you piece of mind but I usually do 10,000 between oil changes in my vehicles. My Subarus range currently in the 140,000 to 150,000 miles and the diesel is at 200,000 and run great. Things have changed greatly in the quality of oils and the amount of contaminates that EFI engines produce. There is no need to do the 3,000 mile oil changes anymore.
my GMC Canyon 05' with 265K miles runs fine. Doesn't burn oil and I have used various oils and filters. Change your oil is smart to do - but it really comes down to how good of an engine was originally built for your vehicle. Hope you didn't get the bad one built at the close of shift on a weekend!
So my take away from this is the mobile one has better flow but it doesn't have better filtering capacity and for a non-performance vehicle the Fram Ultra would be acceptable in the essence of making sure the longevity of that engine stays very healthy for much longer Now with that being said I would ask you if you guys make sure that the bypass rate was the same for each one of these filters to make sure that the initial oil flow testing was accurate
@Ford Boss me we would definitely agree with that take away. I personally have ran the FRAM for years and have had no issues. As for the the bypass valve pressure, you have a good point. In order to make the fairest comparison we could, we applied the same pump power to all of the filters. Unfortunately, some of these manufacturers don't specify their by-pass valve pressure ratings. So maybe on the next video we will test measure that. Thank you for your input, it really is much appreciated and helps us a lot to improve and get better.
@@BrandRanks I personally have experienced a Mobil 1 filter on 2007 Ram Cummins, that was bypassing through the valve (confirmed through oil sampling & filter dissection), which would account for your lower back. pressure.
Most bypasses open at less than 20 psi I believe. They have to because the pump can't shove all the required volume of oil the engine needs through a full flow filter especially when cold or at higher rpms. The filter is still filtering, just not the entire volume of oil that the pump sends through it. I use AMSOIL first, then Wix XP second choice and have used a few Mobile One filters. If you want to filter your oil really well install a bypass system.
@@tbolt5883 In the sense that the pressure reducing valve in almost all filters comes off at different pressures until the oil heats up and changes viscosity, this is called the operating mode, and all the tests in this video were carried out under absolutely incorrect conditions for the normal operation of the filter.
I've ran fram filters on my vehicles for years. Never had any issues and currently my 2007 Hyundai Sonata has 211,000 miles and running like new. Key is frequent oil changes. Oil change intervals should never exceed 5,000 miles no matter what the filter is rated for.
It would only make sense to compare vs those factory replacements. I have a Toyota and can say the Wix and Mobil 1 filters are much smaller than the Toyota filter even though it’s what they claim it calls for and would love to see a comparison.
This test has been done years ago and the normal Fram lost horribly compared to the Motorcraft Napa gold and Wix. I'm curious if Fram has made the filters better? They didn't test the other OEM filters, so it would be a good test to do.
Very nice job. When you test more filters in the future please stick with this exact same method so we can compare the next round against this batch too! Well done!
@_R_ Thank you so much for your feedback and for supporting the channel. Your words mean a lot. We are always looking to improve not just the video quality, but our testing. Some great viewers have made good suggestion to improve on the testing so if we incorporate we may come back and retest if our small channels budget allows. Again, thank you so much!
My 1995 Ford Explorer has always had Castrol 10-30 Conventional oil and a Fram oil filter.Changed at 3000 miles.It now has 435000 miles on it and still runs strong with no smoke or leaks.
This video was fantastically thorough and informative while remaining concise. The editing was top notch. This type of content makes RUclips a better place. Nicely done and thank you!
I worked in Formula One engine design in Europe for many years, and always attended the massive car shows in Geneva & Frankfurt, which have 3 days reserved for people in the industry, dealers etc. not open to the public. Every major parts manufacturer can be found there. There is only one filter maker to be found, because they have a large sign that states "OEM Oil Filter Manufacturer for ;", then lists every Auto brand from Alfa-Romeo on. Everybody is on the list, like Mercedes-Benz, Ferrari, Rolls-Royce to Toyota, GM, etc. Wow, just one with all those clients. Every one of those filters are the same paper elements, there are one-way valves, whatever OEM features but other than appearance all use the same median, and filter equally according to size. Any Auto or Engine maker, distributor, or anyone with an entry ticket could purchase any filters for any cars. Pricing started by the dozens, and was listed for up to 1 million; negotiable prices beyond that. Base was blank, white filters in white boxes, with only filter ID, bar code and part number. Then came a column for 2 color printing, black on white labeled as you provide with graphics, description, & logo, and then a column for full- color packaging for retail sale, any color filters etc. for your own brand. In constant Engine testing up to 1500 HP, 1600 cc turbo V-6s we routinely cut filters in half to look for metal particles that identified their source by type. All filters caught everything down to the same micron level, and the only difference is packaging and price. They gave you a choice of paper patterns and colors for marketing, but base was white as it's just paper. As an engineer I understand a part that does it's job as perfectly &:cheaply as oil + filters reach levels beyond need. American firms use developments from elsewhere, like they turbos discovered forty+ years after commonality everywhere else, so of course these guys wouldn't be who'd know such things. Besides the Tokyo show there is only Genva and Frankfurt to find the ultimate makers. For all the car battery brands the U.S. only has four battery makers; all lead-acid batteries use recycled bullet lead,. Besides stronger cases, baffles, venting, shapes & sizes all make 1.5V per cell, last roughly the same time, so pick yer AAA, Interstate, Diehard, Walmart or Wally's Battery Shack as you prefer, all you chose is the price & package. Sorry to tell these "experts" but whatever they think they found isn't so. I put together a presentation of our Engine development for a Society of American Engineers convention they said got the only SAE conference standing ovation ever, and knowing engines from carving out blocks from solid aluminum to casting forms to camshafts, I wanted to mention that I like the grip paint on Fran's, but I usually but the cheapest like Walmart's Tech, STP or other. Any engineer who thinks they know better should get on a plane and see the modern world. Go blow your mind in Frankfurt, rent a car to enjoy open borders, 90 mph "suggested" speed limits in the EU,with none at all on the perfect Autobahn for fun while you're there. Get a sleeper cabin on a train in Paris, wake up in Rome, or enjoy the every at 250 mph eating dinner. Love having no cops riding hered to tax or just harass drivers at will. Go talk to the folks who make filters, and people who are informed about IC engine development, and have a blast doing so too!
I would be interested in seeing some results from standard oil filters as well. I use wix gold filters because I change my oil every 2000-3000 miles, and I feel like the oil pressure and flow is better without all the unnecessary filter media I don't need.
I'm glad to finally see an oil flow test. I would love to see how Amsoil, royal purple, Purolator, and Wix filters perform against the filters that were already tested.
Yeah, I suspect a wire-backed glass media provides much more flow for a given filtering efficiency. That would including Amsoil and Royal Purple filters, they use Donaldson’s Synteq media.
My results are : 1. I use only full synthetic oil and usually a Fram XG filter every oil change 2. I do an oil change every 5000 miles 3. at 200,000 miles my engine burns zero oil and runs like the day I bought it In my personal opinion the 5000 mile oil change gives the best results regardless of the oil or filter used or the make and model of the car. I have driven at least a million and half miles in my life so far and I have never blown and engine.
Same here, I buy the "high end" Fram filters for my vehicles but do them every 5k miles with synthetic blend. Been doing this since the 90s without issue. Synthetic obviously came along a bit later and I switched from 3k to 5k miles after finally accepting 5k was okay with the upgraded oil and filters combined. I use MotorCraft too since I'm a Ford fanboy. My Fords have gotten totaled before I've ever had to do any engine work (when you drive 160-230 miles a day for work, the fools will eventually catch up to you no matter how cautious you are).
Well I ran 265k miles on my Ford 4.6 and changed the oil maybe 10 times in its life. The engine ran strong and silent. Synthetic oil goes WAY beyond 5k miles. I'm currently running a Ford 5.0 with 199 thousand on the clock and change oil once every two years. I run fram filters and change every other oil change. As you can see by his test the filter media was basically clean after directly pouring in metal. I do not recommend my practices just stating my real world experience.
Sorry Rich, but ALL IC engines burn SOME oil. Yours may be using a very small amount-from what you've written its not enough to need any added between oil changes, but still a measurable amount. My wife's Scion goes 7500-10,000 mi between changes and the oil level (of 5W-20 oil) drops VERY little. But without the thin film of oil that is metered through the OIL CONTROL rings (that's their name) engines would have much higher amounts of friction. The heat generated with no cylinder lubrication would be enough to quickly seize the engine. That tiny bit of oil being supplied to the cross hatching of the cylinder walls, (or more, depending on your particular engine's state of wear) much of which burns off with each combustion cycle, is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to lubricate the cylinder walls.
@@donaldschmied5600 Ok I agree with you but if I'm down very little in oil consumption and I get a little fuel dilution into the oil bringing it back to level , I believe I've reached the best that can be obtained with direct injection technology. If I continue to have the exact same results at 200,000 plus miles , the motor wear is insignificant which is the desired result.
@@donaldschmied5600 EXACTLY, in fact the U.S. Army, Marine Corps, Navy, Air Force and Coast Guard require every engine evaluated for use in military service to burn a predesignated amount of oil!
Been running M1 EP oil and filters in all my vehicles for 15 years. Even in my 240k mile 5.4 3v that has known cam phaser issues and it's still quiet as a mouse fart. Glad to see the filter did so well.
I use K&N for the excellent flow rate and as you seen smoked everyone else on filtering out the junk. Don’t really care about capacity because of something clogged the filter you have bigger problems in the first place 😊 Mobil 1 is my second choice for sure
I have been changing my own oil for 40+ years and have never skimped on quality, oil or filter. I have been using K&N for the last couple of changes and have never seen a filter keep the oil so clean. I hope K&N doesn't change anything with these awesome filters.
Been using purolator since 97 and still do. Purolator used to put a gold grip on their cans kind of like the Fram filters years ago but it didnt last long. Still use them to this very day.
It's highly likely the Mobile 1 had the lower operating psi because your favorite bypass valve design was opening allowing the lower pressure. I'll take the filter that is filtering the best.
Definitely need a Wix XP vs Purolator Boss vs European Mann filter vs Ford Motorcraft (Ford filters are cheaper in price than Supertech) maybe even an STP Extended life filter!! Great way to test them 👍
Excellent detailed review. Your findings declaring the Mobil 1 filter to be superior to the rest have been verified by numerous reviews over the years. That is why I have used it for years for all my vehicles, as oil and filter changes are the most important part of ICE maintenance. Thanks taking the time to evaluate these filters.
@@saulespino2510 Impressively, Saul, you highlighted the motor oil with the second best additive package in the U.S., second only to Ames oil. One thing to note: Ames oil costs $14/quart, whereas Pennzoil Ultra Platinum can be bought at Walmart for $5/quart in the 5-quart container. No one will ever be able to prove that Ames oil will give you longer engine life and better performance than Pennzoil UP. I have been using this oil and the Mobil 1 filter for years with great success, and saving $$$ in the process.
Moroso Omni filter. ( Formerly known as the Oberg snitch filter) infinitely re-usable amd has a warning light . Also it filters down to around 10 microns. By the way they don't use throw away filters in NASCAR or many other types of hi-dollar racing.so, I have no idea why that was even mentioned.ya gotta love that mobil 1 though.
I have used Royal Purple filters for years and would love to see a comparison in this type of setup. This is probably the most well put together test of filters I've seen on YT so far! Great work!
@Daniel Baker Thank you so much for the encouraging words. We are definitely planning on testing the royal purple. Stay tuned! Thanks for the suggestion!
I used to work for a filtration manufacturer. Internally, Royal Purple is identical to Amsoil, Mobil-1, and a number of other boutique brands. They are manufactured by Champion Labs.
@@torment6369 I'm pretty sure that one is Champion labs as well. Champion labs and FRAM make a lot of OE filters. Honda and Subaru oil filters are FRAM also, for example.
Thanks for this video. I really enjoyed it. As a Mobil 1 guy since the early 2000s, it's nice to see some reinforcement for my decision. I've run nothing but M1 oil and filters nearly my entire adult life. It's worth the 💰
So glad I found your channel-awesome content! You're like Project Farms kid brother who recently graduated from an esteemed engineering university and decided to channel his overflowing enthusiasm into intelligent product testing. And I'm here for it!
Great video. I have used the Mobil 1 extended performance filters in every car I recently owned within the past 10 years and I agree with your test. They are very good filters.
Excellent comprehensive video on oil filter testing. My only thought was to run the dirty oil through the system without a filter first, so that the subsequent filters weren’t at a disadvantage, although I would assume the difference would very possibly be negligible. I also saw another comment saying run the test at normal operating temperature as that may have an impact on performance as well. That being said, seeing as they were all run at ambient temperature there may be a difference in how much media was filtered, I doubt there would be any significant difference between the results between the different filters. Thank you for sharing!
Holy shit this channel came out of nowhere with insane production value. Y'all took a lot of effort and time to make this. Subscribed to support y'all. Please don't burn out and pace yourselves I know how difficult it is to consistently produce content at that level.
@Slide Wreck Dan Thank you so much for taking the time to write this. It really means a lot that you appreciate all the hard work that went into this. Defiystill learning and the community has been great with some awesome feedback. Juggling full time jobs and doing RUclips is pretty daunting, but the response what's been great and comments like yours keeps us motivated. Thank you so much! We appreciate you immensely and glad that you subscribed.
This was one of the best breakdowns I've seen. Very thorough and easy to understand. Showing the interior of the the filters after the process definitely exposes some of the design flaws.
I used nothing but Mobil 1 and a Fram filter in my old 2002 Chevy Blazer that I bought new. Passed it down to my daughter when she was in college. Had almost 270,000 miles on it when I sold it. And didn’t use any oil. Maintenance is key!!
I used to use a bypass filter along with the normal full flow filter. It would filter constantly even and especially at higher engine rpm, and filter down to 5 micron. Since it is so restrictive, the full flow (normal) filter was there to provide filtering AND oil to vital engine components. However oil that was 2 years old was just as clean as it was at 500 miles. I changed the bypass once a year.
The Fram filters particles above 20 microns. The other 3 start at 30 microns. That''s a significant difference. Might add particle size distribution testing to the lab tests.
IDK, it may not offer much of a practical difference, especially if its filter media can spread out more. It's definitely one of those numbers I don't believe unless I see it verified. Definitely second the parti😊😊cle size testing, it's a very good idea.
Does it really matter? Yes and no. The vast majority of particulate can’t be filtered out by 20 or 30 µm. It does hamper the flow though. As the filter loads up. So be careful what you wish for especially if you’re running a GM V8 which wants high flow
Thank you for performing this test and posting here. Most of the oil filter reviews I have seen focus on cutting open the can an performing a visual inspection. Knowing how well the filter will actually function allows for an informed decision on which "brand" to use.
Most of these filters look like they'd cause a huge issue the second they bypass, since they build up so much material at the bottom of the filter. That's still better than no oil and won't be an issue if it's changed regularly though.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Take a look at the place of filter of your car, it is very likely that it is not vertical so all the gunk is not underneath this bypass valve. even in this video it is at 90 degrees angle. Also you need opening valve pressure to be the same as the original. if it is weaker than needed, then you may have early openings; and if it is stronger than needed, your engine may struggle without oil.
I liked the testing process and seeing the results in the bar graphs. Simple advice for us DIY drivers: whether you choose brand X or Y filters, be very diligent about Regular Oil Changes! Oil and filters are CHEAP and new engines EXPENSIVE !!
@Rick Fenestra Thank you for your feedback! Lots of work went into this and we are glad you enjoyed. Also, can't agree more with your advice. Oil filter changes are number one priority.
The bypass opens between 2-5bar. When the engine is cold, no oil is filtered, everything goes in the bypass. Most engines have an oil pressure of 3 bar and above. Test the filters without the bypass valve and with different oil temperatures and see how much oil flows through the oil filters!
Great review! My Dad and I use Frams Ultra Synthetic filters for all ours cars and so far no issues. The tape grip on the back helps a ton as well with installation.
some number of years ago, i saw another video doing oil filter reviews. they cut open brand new filters to observe the construction and the fram had rusty parts and metal shavings in it. before seeing that video i was a Fram guy myself. now i only use Wix
@@elixeroflifei have heard people say fram oil filters gaskets come off. I find it strange fram is all me and my dad has ever used and we have never had a problem lol
👋 Hey! Thank you souch for your kind words. It means so much to us. A lot of work goes into this and comments like yours make it worth it. Thanks for your support!
random and BrandRanks, I switched to Mobil 1, since I owned a 1990 Buick LeSabre, a 2004 Buick LeSabre, and a 2013 Chevy Avalanche. What are the thoughts on Lucas Oil Stop Leak, and Marvel Mystery Oil?
I would have loved to see you test the Toyota filter, since you can get them at walmart next to the other brands Also, I like how in depth you tested the filters. It reminds me of Project Farm videos in a good way. Keep it up!
I change my filter with every oil change, but generally use Mobil 1 or K&N on my dailies, and Moroso/Amsoil filters on my track cars. For the dailies I just run OTS Mobil 1, or sometimes Rotella T6… but the track cars get either Redline/Royal Purple/Motul (depending on what they have on the shelf that day) that gets changed out after each event. I’m probably super excessive, but I’d like to think clean oil is like a clean blood stream, the cleaner the better.
Indeed it is. Even small particles can cause damage over time. Nothing wrong with taking care of your investment. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel.
Great work, nice tests, good editing... Splendid video. Learned about filters I was ACTUALLY considering. Please do more brands like Pennzoil or Castrol synthetics, Wix filters, etc.! You definitely earned a subscriber and a like from me. Have a great day!
@Chris Friend Thank you so much for your kind words! It's a slow grind to gain traction in RUclips, but comments like yours keeps us going and motivated. Your words make a huge difference. We will DEFINETLY attempt to do other brands if our budget allows. Have an amazing day and again, Thank you for your support🙂
I by no means, recommend cheaping out and using Orange and SIlver fram filters. However, and with exception, I've been quite impressed with the XGs. And I do continue to use them. The quality does reflect in their price.
I'd probably go with the better oil flow over filtering, simply because it's easy to change the oil more often, which will reduce wear, whereas oil starvation will destroy your engine far more rapidly.
Do you change your filter at every oil change or at every other oil change? I have always bought larger or and longer oil filters when ever I can .. for a small Block Chevy I could easily find a much larger oil filter for $3.50 to $4.50 It's Crazy, they sell K&N Oil filters for Motorcycles for like $15.00 I have bought Fram Motorcycle oil filters from Walmart for $4.11 recently while the Local Power Sports dealer was selling the same Part # for $12.00
@GarageKing Thank you so much for your kind words. It means a lot that you took the time to write this. Glad you and others are enjoying it. Thank you for the support 🙂
I had always been a Puralator /Fram guy many years ago. when to me Fram was the better filter but over the years each manufacturer started skimping on their products and I started using OE filters with very good success and started about 8 years ago using Wix filters which I am also very happy with
My mom works for fleetguard Cummins filtration, she said on the assembly line that one filter goes one way and gets painted white with a fleetguard label stuck on it and the next goes the other way and gets painted orange with the frame logo stuck on it, so if you can find fleetguard filters (same with air filters too) they are the same as fram for like a third the cost, she been with the company for over 35 years now
@@stephenkeller8208… As long as it’s full synthetic … I heard Toyota motors can get sludged up if you don’t use full synthetic, engines are designed for that …
Nice test. and honest comparison. There are definitely many more filters that could be compared to these. I've got 235000 miles on my 02 Ford F150, using nothing but Motorcraft oil and filters. They've worked so well to this point, I don't plan on changing... Not sure what the "high mileage" filters or oil do differently, but I subscribe to the theory "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"
I same here I just use fomoco filters 500.000 k on my99 7.3 ps nd 97 400.000 on my 97 ps nd all my other half dozen fords that I have had the past 20 years including my 66 fairlane 500 xl 289 ❤
Don't know how you only have 5k subscribers. The quality of video and editing are insane and its extremely well made. Keep it up, and you'll definitely be rewarded!
@Alek Shyblosky Thank you so much for your kind words. It's been a steep learning curve so far! Didn't know how much we didn't know about video production. We appreciate you taking the time to write this comment. it really means a lot to us and keeps us motivated!
Holding less grams of aluminum powder may not be a bad thing. It may mean that the filter has smaller pores, this clogging more quickly, but also filtering smaller particles. And if there were this much aluminum in the oil, the engine would be toast anyway.
i think as long as you change your oil often it doesnt really matter.. using a cheap filter and oil and changing every 4-5k miles vs using the best of the best and changing at 10-12k i think the cheaper is better.. changing your oil is what is important
You don't want to use mineral oil cold starts is where the damage is done good oil %100 amsoil is one of the best to stop metal shedding on cold starts.
Changing the oil is a good thing but you want the parts fully protected and definitely wanna use %100 Ester oil if you live in cold climate areas the cold starts will cause metal shedding.
@@ohboy2592 i have owned well over 50 vehicles and do not use expensive oil yet have never had an engine fail because of a problem with the oil. so chances are i might be very right.. but life experience and knowledge mean little in todays world compared to internet knowledge
The testing you did was the best I’ve seen so far but I use Purolator oil filters and would like to know the performance of them. The design and specs. Of them they should do very well with your testing. Thanks, Steve.
@Stev B thank you so much for you kind words. We try to make the best content possible to help everyone make better decisions. Thanks for the recommendation, we will try to incorporate on a future video! Again, thanks for supporting the channel.
Fram now has a synthetic endurance. Starts with FE. The titanium is like the og ultra. I like the microgard select too and Purolator boss. Haven't tried the fram synthetic endurance but I bought 3 of them. Like how they look and are designed.
@jacob wyatt, thank you so much for your recommendation. We were not aware of that new one! We will take a look and see if we can include it in future videos. Thank you for your support!
I used a k&n filter on my ford ranger cause i got it on a sale at autozone, my oil pressure dropped in the truck and i had keep the idle up just to make the oil light go off. Went to walmart and got my fram, and never switched again. I use fram in my 03 Ranger, 06 Fusion, 09 F150 and 12 Fusion. Never changing again.
@jafo461 Thank you so much for your kind words. Comments like yours keeps us motivated, especially through the slow and tedious process of growing a small channel. Thank you for supporting us🙂
I appreciate you taking the time to build a rig to really test filters! Every other RUclips video I've seen have just been breakdown videos where they compare visuals. It is this type of independent testing that truly informs us. Definitely subscribing. One minute detail would be heat, as oil viscosity is very different at operating temp and could make a drastic difference in filter performance. One more thing that was left out in this video though was the oil bypass performances. All of those filters' bypasses are going to open at different pressures, and that is arguably one of the most important factors as play. Sure, one may have better flow than another or may have more surface area/better media in the filter... but if it is possible that one of these filters' bypasses opened during testing to allow dirty oil to flow then it would not only make the test inaccurate but it also implies that the filter was not actually functioning as intended during testing. I wonder if there is a way to modify the filter housings so we have an indication if the bypass opens? I think this should be a high priority when testing longevity, as oil filter manufacturers today (pointing the finger at K&N) use this exact argument to market their product as being superior; sure, the other filters have better specifications, but those specifications don't matter if their bypass is open 1,000 miles before your next oil change or your vehicle is bypassing the filter on every cold start in the winter. Personally, I'd rather see this test on motorcycle filters. The engines are smaller and more delicate, so it logically makes the most sense to me to truly want to get the best performing filter overall in that situation. To be picky, it would be nice to do Harley Davidson filters for twin cam/M8 as these are the two most common engines right now, they make their own, push consumers to use their own, but don't have testing to prove theirs is actually best for their engines.
I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil and matching filters in my 2006 Acura CSX. I put around 10-12,000 kms on my car per year; mostly short trips in town. Even though the oil is claimed to be good for one year or 25,000 kms, I change it twice per year in the spring and in the fall. I buy the oil and filters ahead of time when they’re on sale; meaning I can do premium synthetic oil changes for less than $60 here in Canada. I also like knowing exactly what is going into my car, that it’s done right, and I can look at other components while I’m under the car. Some people might say that the auto engineers know best when they suggest oil change intervals of 10-15 thousand miles between oil changes. However, those intervals allow them to claim lower annual maintenance costs in their marketing. Also, it’s probably fair to say that the manufacturers probably care more about the engine just making it past their factory warranty rather than the customer getting the absolute most life out of their engine.
Thanks for putting in the time and effort towards creating such an in depth, educational video. The tests were all well done and relevant towards the actual use and function of oil filters. Taking them all apart and explaining the various parts as well as their purpose was the icing on the cake for me.
I like to use the fram ultra synthetic xg3593a in place of the much smaller XG6607 found in many applications. It adds oil capacity and additional filter surface areas.
Unless the pressure drop within the oil filter is enough to trip the bypass valve, it is generally of low importance as automotive engines use a positive displacement oil pump. That means they pump oil even with high back pressure. You don't get a reduction in flow with higher back pressure. The ONLY thing you should care about is how clean the oil is at the end of the test and how much junk they can hold. They claim 99% removal. What percent did each actually remove? Doesn't look like they did what they claim. In addition to the lab test: I suggest you get a positive displacement pump. Load up each oil filter - determining max particles they can hold, which will be indicated when the pressure no longer increases (because the bypass is kicking in). You won't be able to use hose clamps or the clear hose (think hydraulic hose). You should be able to use the clear hose after the oil filter when it drains back to reservoir. Also suggest you try different models from each brand to Attempt to reduce brand variability. Overall great start.
@David Ortiz Thank you for the recommendation! We will try our best to include everyone recommendations. We appreciate you subscribing. Makes a huge difference an gets us closer to that magic 1000 subscribers! Again, much appreciated🙂
The Mobil 1 filter has the weakest bypass valve. That's why it had the lowest pressure in the first test. The bypass valve open earlier than the others. That's also why it did so poorly in other filtration test, because the oil was bypassing the filter media due to the weak bypass spring.
What I'd really like to see is a test of say 3 of each filter purchased from 3 locations and of hopefully different batch numbers to see what consistency differences are present between identical products. Great video guys!
I like the lack of mention of delta p. I also like how you find a 30 micron filter superior to a 20. Engines still during normal use see 20 micron. Its also been shown that filtering at 20 micron has not hurt anyones oil pressure where people have had lack of lubrication. Test doesnt tell the whole story.
I hope to see more filter tests using the same criteria. It's tough to go into a store with a dozen choices, only to have test results from just a few of them. Another thing to note is which filters are the same, but just rebranded.
I have a 2002 Duramax diesel. I changed it to a caterpillar filter, took an extra quart of oil. It's still stock except for 4 inch exhaust. I changed oil every 5000 miles. It has 40lbs pressure at idle and 70 running. No internal engine problems Got 265,000 miles on it.
It would be interesting to see this test with the added effect of operating oil temperature. Temperature plays a huge role in the assumed conditions of what running engines oil will behave like. I wonder how much it would change the outcome of this test 🤔
I have a Mahle canister filter or two to give you. If you want it can be a Mahle spin on type! Let me know! The Supertech looks shockingly like an AC Delco filter or a Fram Drive filter from Advance Auto Parts. With that being said, the AC Delco filters I know are very good in a standard oil change interval of about 5,000 to 7,500 miles, but after that I like to recommend the Mobil 1 filter. The one thing I love about the AC Delco filters is the flow at wide open throttle. It's not a normal plastic core and it makes it have a better flow rate through the filter. For those with a huge amount of miles on their engines, I tend to recommend a Fram Drive/AC Delco Professional or a Wix filter and no more than a 5,000 mile oil change interval to keep the oil pressure up. Just don't run them longer than 10,000 miles because those filters don't like to have a ton of pressure from contaminants on them. I had to educate a Saturn owner about the problems with running those "E-Core" filters too long and their oil filter had just started to collapse from the pressure. They understood, but like the car, so they'll be coming in at least every 4 months now to get their oil and filter. I also have a friend that's a journeyman electrician and he has a 2014 F150 5.0 with 231k miles on it. We just did another oil change on it with Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w20 and just recently switched to the High Mileage variant. At the 213k mile mark he JUST got the first oil leak on his engine. The rear main seal.Even then it's a single barely damp dribble out the weep hole. We have not touched the oil system on the truck yet, but have changed every coolant hose on the engine. He's used the Mobil 1 EP oil now since about 2018 when it came out.
@Marcello Colotario Thank you for this great info, we will definetly see if we can get our hands on an AC delco. You have some good advice here. We really appreciate your support!
This just confirmed that the Fram Ultra is a good filter. None of the other filters were filtering to 20 microns, the amount of aluminum dust was excessive and the oil wasn't at operating temp. You need to heat the oil to 200 degrees, and weigh the filters before and after to see which one collected the most contaminants. It's a flawed test, but I saw nothing to make me change from the Fram Ultra filter, although the M1 looked good.
This was awesome. I love the tear down videos, but I DEFINITELY love when a rigorous scientific approach is used to tell the real story. I recognized the Blackstone Laboratory container instantly lol
@James Bumgardner Thank you so much for taking the time to leave this comment. It really means a lot, especially to a small channel. You have a good eye! 😁
@@SeattleDinghyerMann Hengst, and Mahle are pretty much cartridge filters for the most part. Found in European cars. They don't have drain back valves as those are incorporated into the oil filter housings found on the engines themselves. The element is all pretty much the same shit. They all pretty much filter more or less the same. 🤷♂️
Any filter around $10.00 give or take a buck or two should be sufficient. I’m a Mobil One filter guy for my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 144,000 miles and still runs great no burning or leaking. High mileage oils have conditioners to keep the seals in good condition so I would recommend them. Best oil is clean oil.
The starting point for the graphs not being 0 makes the differences in performance seem larger than they are. Also, just for the sake of weeding out potential good or bad samples, i think it would be cool to test multiple of each type of filter. Other than that, great video!
One of my all-time favorite posts from the Internet; “When I am king, the first ones against the wall will be the ones who make charts that don’t start at zero.”
Also those differences were mostly showing which bypass flowed more. The people running the test didn't understand a pressure above the bypass rating means the filter was in bypass. The proper test would be to restrict the flow after the filter to build the pressure and measuring the difference to the pre filter pressure.
Thanks for doing this test. I had requested this very test over at Project Farm, but he never took on the challenge. You guys did and I applaud that. I have a suggestion. Other than the Supertech, you tested high end filters. I think the vast majority of car owners would like to know what the average filters can do. For example, the Wix, Bosch and Purolator are very popular. The Supertech is pretty darn popular too because of the price and availability pretty much anywhere. This is a good baseline filter to measure against others. Well done on the test method and setup. Keep up the great work.
@toolwarrior thank you so much for your kind words. It mean a lot to hear that you enjoyed. That is a great idea and we definitely plan to make follow up videos and we will take that into consideration. We might start with the high end ones, but we will get tot he other ones as well. Thank you for your support!
But Project Farm can't "take on" every "challenge" that every Joe Schmuck on the internet asks for. LOL. Do you think they have time for absolutely everything? If you want to be fair.... Project Farm has taken on projects these guys have not. How much you want to bet me that I can suggest things for BR to test, in which they don't "take on the challenge"? So then should I take pot shots at them like you just did to Project Farm? LOL. Next time, think a little bit before typing. Great job by this channel, by the way! Awesome job, and awesome test! I'm a subscriber!
I always used Fram and I get over 400,000 miles on my Chrysler 300 3.5L My 2007 died last year at 467,000 miles and it was the timing belt. I had a 2013 that got to 323,000 but was totaled in a crash. My current 300 is a 2006 with 288,000 so far. I will still use fram.
![The ULTIMATE Air Filter Test [Engineer Tested]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RdbFAG5xbyY/mqdefault.jpg)
If you want to see other Oil Filters tested, let us know in the comments below!
Yes. Show the other oil filters please!
Purolator Boss 😁🤓. Just subed recommend from FBM channel. 😁
Motorcraft
Motorcraft filters?
How about the Purolator One? My choice for oil filters
Wix XP and Purolator filters are very popular. Would love to see them against these filters
@js12278 Thank you so much for the recommendation! We will attempt to do our best to test the most popular ones. A channel with less than 1000 subscribers has a tight budget😔. Your comment and support really helps, so we appreciate it immensely! Don't forget to like and subscribe.😁
@@BrandRanks I’ll gladly send you a wix and wix XP filter 😁😁
Purolator Boss would be great to test vs Mobil 1 you already did. Thanks. Great content.
I agree. I'd love to see the Purolator Boss!
I agree
One thing I would suggest, despite the difficulty of doing so, is using oil heated to normal operating temps for the long-duration tests. The oil/filter media relationship changes very much with temperature.
@97marqedman, This is a great suggestion, we are looking into this for future videos, be sure to subscribe so you don't miss out on future content! Thanks for the support!
Update: Make sure to go check out our new videos with the upgraded RIG.
#Perfect!!! 👍🏻
im still gonna use mobil 1 oil filters because im confident it will pass the "heated oil" test.
As long as all other factors are the same, then it is a fairly realistic test, but it would be very awesome to see if there was any actual changes, like maybe the warmer oil able to carry some particulates through the filter.
Throw an Amsoil filter in the mix. Would love to see how it does
I’ve seen many other videos on oil filters from various channels. Most of them just cut it open and examine the internals. Your guys’ video is the first review I’ve seen with actual performance testing. Very well made and informative. Would love to see more!
@Sixty Minute, Thank you for your feedback! We're glad to hear that you found our video informative and well-made.
You watched nates interactive auto and Carsntoys videos too? Haha
Yes, they examine the internals and criticize the materials used, but then never explain why the material difference matters. Even in this video, one of them had a plastic internal barrel instead of metal; if it's not a piece that handles stress to need the strength of metal, why is it assumed that metal is functionally any better?
May I suggest project farm? He breaks A LOT of this down among more of the filters at once. Similar testing as well.
@@crazyndn49 I love project farm but he doesn’t have a single video on oil filters.
I've been using Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic and aFram ultra filter fo 15 years perfect so far, and on a 2004 Ram 1500 i have 400,000 miles still running good..Great Video!!!
My vehicle maintenance is similar, vehicle having 310,000 miles. Please note, you do not have to use the high mileage every oil change. It has seal conditioners. So every other time is adequate for engines over 5 years old. Sometimes I use 1 quart of the high mileage with 4 quarts of full synthetic. I don't want to over condition the seals. But with 400,000 you are doing many things right...
A old acquaintance of mine once bought a 65 Biscayne because it ran really quiet.
But it was gutless.
Turns out tge quiet part was because the space under the valve covers was absolutely crammed with hardened sludge.
He cleaned it up, started it up,
And,
Clatter-clatter-clatter-clatter.
Probably never had an oil change.
SMH
@@vanpenguin22Some people think motor oil is just for oiling the engine. They just don't know any more than that.
Same I use.
Useless test
I get the 20k synthetic oil and pair it with the 20k rated filter.... and still change it every 3 to 5k miles 😅
@Martin Burgos Hahaha I've been using the FRAM ultra for years and changing it every 7500 as well. Your car should be in top shape! Thanks for your comment and for supporting the channel🙂
Likewise. What’s more, I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic 0W-20 and their M1C-251A ‘cartridge style’ filter in my 2012 Camry SE, both of which are changed every 5,000 miles ON THE DOT. Nothing but the very best for my trusty steed!
A Group IV/V oil can go that distance provided the additive package is tuned right but I wouldn't do it with anything less.
Smart man!
Synthetic oil is made from natural gas so it has no crude you can go the full 20 k miles I've been doing it for years and use mobile 1
This has been one the best actual testing of oil filters. Most other sites just cut them apart and give subjective opinions on their construction without any valid performance testing.
Thank you so much for the kind words. Your support is greatly appreciated!
@@BrandRanks As an Engineer, I analyze all the facts possible before coming to a conclusion. Yes, there's still some questions that could be addressed. One that comes to mind is: What's the difference in each filter performance if the oil is changed every 5K, 7.5K, or 10K miles? Force Induction applications are more severe to oil as compared Natural Aspirated Engines. Would flow in FI be more important then NA engines?
Some of these results may be significant or may not be discernable.
Those are great points and good ideas to figure out in future videos. Also make sure to watch the new video where we greatly improved our testing process with a bigger budget.
I think Project Farm also does reliable testing.
FINALLY a test were goes beyond just cut open and counting pleats...pressure differential and filtration capacity, that's what's really matters!
Yes they did an excellent job but you're also welcome to do those extra tests that you think are required or should be done instead of somebody else taking the time to do it you could be the one that doesn't instead of complaining about it so always remember people put the effort into making videos because that's the time that they have and that's what they're allowing themselves to do and when you go above that obviously you have the time to do that and the finances to do that and if you have to complain about somebody else doing something that you don't have the time or money to do well then you really don't have the right to be saying anything saying anything
@@FordBossMe I dont know why you took this comment personally. It wasn’t directed to you, even because you are not the only one that performers this kind of tests I ''complained' about, there are a lot of channels that do the same.
You also are welcome to react in two different manners, attack me because of what I said or set this kind of video as a new standard (and go beyond) to enhance your content regarding oil filters. I'm a subscriber of your channel and I know for a fact that you do all kinds of videos about car maintenance, and in the end, for us (including you) as users and mechanics, we know that in the end, the number of pleats, the media material, the resistance of the can, none of this matters. What really matter is how well the filter actually perform, by testing the oil flow, restriction and filter capacity is what matters the most for me, and should it for you too.
@@contabelta you could be the factor and setting the standard for what you dislike as well
You could have said great job guys keep it up instead of dragging your distaste for others lacking to your liking into it
It's cool info, but the testing basically just proved that they're all more than good enough
This has huge potential. You should definitely do more brands. Penzoil, amsoil, oem filters, ect!
Thank you so much for the kind words and the suggestion! Much appreciated.
@@BrandRanks Honda oem next please 🙏🏻
Amsoil is a Wix XP filter
@@DTuned559 Honda OEM is basically a re-branded Fram Tough-Guard filter lol.
@@kimblem.w9952 🤣
The RUclips algorithm worked here. I’ve been searching for real filter testing for over a year now. I really appreciate the scientific method and getting to filter performance vs look like other channels. This is very Project Farm style testing. Video quality is also great. I hope this goes viral for you guys.
A few suggestions for future testing as I think this could be big for your channel. As others have suggested, I’d test other brands including Amsoil, Napa Gold and Platinum (or WIX equivalent), Royal Purple, Purolator One and Boss, AC Delco Ultragaurd Gold.
Since you have built such a good rig and have access to a lab I’d suggest some extra tests. You could do a filter efficiency test to see, over a fixed period of time, how much aluminum of various particle sizes gets filtered out. Would be interested to test at 20, 30, 40, 60, 100 micron - effectively creating an efficiency per particle size. For the particle capacity test it would be interesting to take the filters to when the bypass lifts (or the media fails) and to know the pressure that happens at.
Keep up the awesome work.
Just goes to show you that Fram for all the haters out here that it’s a respectable filter. The best filter for you car is a clean one. Cannot stress that enough, clean filters work better and provide protection for a few dollars. Great video, now how do you convince people to change oil regularly when they don’t even know that the car takes oil. I’ve heard it time after time that “I didn’t know it took oil, I just put gas in it “.
@russell Stewart Thank you for the feedback. Your comment makes a huge difference especially for such a small channel. I've actually been running FRAM for years with absolutely no issues, so I agree that the most important thing is a clean filter!
Fram ultra is a good filter, other Fram filters proven not to be very good…
Been using Fram ultra for years , no problem at all ......ofc it has the be the Ultra one not the rest of the line up.
I would never put the cheap standard Fram filter on any of my vehicles but that changed with the Ultra Synthetic filter. Very good quality at a decent price. I always run synthetic oils with either the Fram Ultras in my Subarus and the Wix XP in my diesel. You can waste money by changing the oil and filters more frequently if that gives you piece of mind but I usually do 10,000 between oil changes in my vehicles. My Subarus range currently in the 140,000 to 150,000 miles and the diesel is at 200,000 and run great. Things have changed greatly in the quality of oils and the amount of contaminates that EFI engines produce. There is no need to do the 3,000 mile oil changes anymore.
It's just the cheap cardboard fram that sucks
my GMC Canyon 05' with 265K miles runs fine. Doesn't burn oil and I have used various oils and filters. Change your oil is smart to do - but it really comes down to how good of an engine was originally built for your vehicle. Hope you didn't get the bad one built at the close of shift on a weekend!
So my take away from this is the mobile one has better flow but it doesn't have better filtering capacity and for a non-performance vehicle the Fram Ultra would be acceptable in the essence of making sure the longevity of that engine stays very healthy for much longer
Now with that being said I would ask you if you guys make sure that the bypass rate was the same for each one of these filters to make sure that the initial oil flow testing was accurate
@Ford Boss me we would definitely agree with that take away. I personally have ran the FRAM for years and have had no issues. As for the the bypass valve pressure, you have a good point. In order to make the fairest comparison we could, we applied the same pump power to all of the filters. Unfortunately, some of these manufacturers don't specify their by-pass valve pressure ratings. So maybe on the next video we will test measure that. Thank you for your input, it really is much appreciated and helps us a lot to improve and get better.
@@BrandRanks I personally have experienced a Mobil 1 filter on 2007 Ram Cummins, that was bypassing through the valve (confirmed through oil sampling & filter dissection), which would account for your lower back. pressure.
Actually, in practice I believe full flow filters bypass valves are open way more than you think.
@@BrandRanks find out how much force it take to push the valve in. Measure the area that is exposed. That is how you determine the crack pressure.
Most bypasses open at less than 20 psi I believe. They have to because the pump can't shove all the required volume of oil the engine needs through a full flow filter especially when cold or at higher rpms. The filter is still filtering, just not the entire volume of oil that the pump sends through it. I use AMSOIL first, then Wix XP second choice and have used a few Mobile One filters. If you want to filter your oil really well install a bypass system.
This is what I wanted to see. Not just taking a filter apart to see how pretty it looks inside.
@t bolt Glad you enjoyed. Thank you for your support!
All these tests are absolutely not relevant in cold oil, must redo everything.
@@47ALTAIR47 WHY ? In what way ?
@@tbolt5883 In the sense that the pressure reducing valve in almost all filters comes off at different pressures until the oil heats up and changes viscosity, this is called the operating mode, and all the tests in this video were carried out under absolutely incorrect conditions for the normal operation of the filter.
Exactly 💯. Much more thorough info for us engineering types. -Ohio
The best filter is the one you change every 5,000 miles or less...
@user-wv1pj6wh4hnot with a car engine.
It's cheap, just change it...
I run my oil to 6000 miles but swap filter every 3000.
@@NodakSavageThat seems unnecessary
No need for me to change my Hengst filters any sooner than 10k in my diesels
I've ran fram filters on my vehicles for years. Never had any issues and currently my 2007 Hyundai Sonata has 211,000 miles and running like new. Key is frequent oil changes. Oil change intervals should never exceed 5,000 miles no matter what the filter is rated for.
European made are premium
Along with the other great suggestions, I'd love to see some OEM filters stacked up vs. the aftermarket competition like AC Delco, Motorcraft ect..
It would only make sense to compare vs those factory replacements. I have a Toyota and can say the Wix and Mobil 1 filters are much smaller than the Toyota filter even though it’s what they claim it calls for and would love to see a comparison.
No reason to. Champion labs makes both of them. Aka fram
Same I have a ford and it’s motorcraft but usually use k&n cause motorcraft never in stock and I might just switch to mobile 1
@@Tmat_4928 the manufacturer of the parts does not have any bearing on the specifications they are built to , only maybe the build quality , maybe
@@donbeary6394 well you keep buying that cheap shit then.
would be interested to see how OEM filters perform in the same tests.
Yeah, I've had many tell me it's the only way to go so that's what I've always done.
OEM filters are frequently rebadged filters. May, or may not be made to different specs.
This test has been done years ago and the normal Fram lost horribly compared to the Motorcraft Napa gold and Wix. I'm curious if Fram has made the filters better? They didn't test the other OEM filters, so it would be a good test to do.
Motorcraft are truly exceptional
Really interested to see how Motorcraft holds up in the competition.
Very nice job. When you test more filters in the future please stick with this exact same method so we can compare the next round against this batch too! Well done!
@_R_ Thank you so much for your feedback and for supporting the channel. Your words mean a lot. We are always looking to improve not just the video quality, but our testing. Some great viewers have made good suggestion to improve on the testing so if we incorporate we may come back and retest if our small channels budget allows. Again, thank you so much!
Ha yes, even small variations will drive me nuts lol.
My 1995 Ford Explorer has always had Castrol 10-30 Conventional oil and a Fram oil filter.Changed at 3000 miles.It now has 435000 miles on it and still runs strong with no smoke or leaks.
then try 1992 Ford Tempo 3L-V6 509K original and still runs and sound like a new car....
This video was fantastically thorough and informative while remaining concise. The editing was top notch. This type of content makes RUclips a better place. Nicely done and thank you!
Thank you Devin! It really means a lot to read this. It keeps us motivated to keep producing more content. Your support is greatly appreciated.
I worked in Formula One engine design in Europe for many years, and always attended the massive car shows in Geneva & Frankfurt, which have 3 days reserved for people in the industry, dealers etc. not open to the public. Every major parts manufacturer can be found there. There is only one filter maker to be found, because they have a large sign that states "OEM Oil Filter Manufacturer for ;", then lists every Auto brand from Alfa-Romeo on. Everybody is on the list, like Mercedes-Benz, Ferrari, Rolls-Royce to Toyota, GM, etc. Wow, just one with all those clients. Every one of those filters are the same paper elements, there are one-way valves, whatever OEM features but other than appearance all use the same median, and filter equally according to size.
Any Auto or Engine maker, distributor, or anyone with an entry ticket could purchase any filters for any cars. Pricing started by the dozens, and was listed for up to 1 million; negotiable prices beyond that. Base was blank, white filters in white boxes, with only filter ID, bar code and part number. Then came a column for 2 color printing, black on white labeled as you provide with graphics, description, & logo, and then a column for full- color packaging for retail sale, any color filters etc. for your own brand.
In constant Engine testing up to 1500 HP, 1600 cc turbo V-6s we routinely cut filters in half to look for metal particles that identified their source by type. All filters caught everything down to the same micron level, and the only difference is packaging and price. They gave you a choice of paper patterns and colors for marketing, but base was white as it's just paper.
As an engineer I understand a part that does it's job as perfectly &:cheaply as oil + filters reach levels beyond need. American firms use developments from elsewhere, like they turbos discovered forty+ years after commonality everywhere else, so of course these guys wouldn't be who'd know such things. Besides the Tokyo show there is only Genva and Frankfurt to find the ultimate makers.
For all the car battery brands the U.S. only has four battery makers; all lead-acid batteries use recycled bullet lead,. Besides stronger cases, baffles, venting, shapes & sizes all make 1.5V per cell, last roughly the same time, so pick yer AAA, Interstate, Diehard, Walmart or Wally's Battery Shack as you prefer, all you chose is the price & package.
Sorry to tell these "experts" but whatever they think they found isn't so. I put together a presentation of our Engine development for a Society of American Engineers convention they said got the only SAE conference standing ovation ever, and knowing engines from carving out blocks from solid aluminum to casting forms to camshafts, I wanted to mention that I like the grip paint on Fran's, but I usually but the cheapest like Walmart's Tech, STP or other.
Any engineer who thinks they know better should get on a plane and see the modern world. Go blow your mind in Frankfurt, rent a car to enjoy open borders, 90 mph "suggested" speed limits in the EU,with none at all on the perfect Autobahn for fun while you're there. Get a sleeper cabin on a train in Paris, wake up in Rome, or enjoy the every at 250 mph eating dinner. Love having no cops riding hered to tax or just harass drivers at will.
Go talk to the folks who make filters, and people who are informed about IC engine development, and have a blast doing so too!
This would make a great series. I'd love to see a Denso, Wix, FRAM TG, and Bosch comparison ❤
Agree! Definetly planning on a lot more filters.make sure to subscribe so you don't miss them. Thank you for your support!
Or Mopar
Or Mopar
I would be interested in seeing some results from standard oil filters as well. I use wix gold filters because I change my oil every 2000-3000 miles, and I feel like the oil pressure and flow is better without all the unnecessary filter media I don't need.
I'm glad to finally see an oil flow test. I would love to see how Amsoil, royal purple, Purolator, and Wix filters perform against the filters that were already tested.
Yeah, I suspect a wire-backed glass media provides much more flow for a given filtering efficiency.
That would including Amsoil and Royal Purple filters, they use Donaldson’s Synteq media.
Wix XP uses something fairly similar
Sergiu Gabor has a whole line of videos. In the end like most things in life, it seems to be all about compromise.
Seconding amsoil
AMSOIL filters actually are Mobil1 filters.
My results are :
1. I use only full synthetic oil and usually a Fram XG filter every oil change
2. I do an oil change every 5000 miles
3. at 200,000 miles my engine burns zero oil and runs like the day I bought it
In my personal opinion the 5000 mile oil change gives the best results regardless of the oil or filter used or the make and model of the car.
I have driven at least a million and half miles in my life so far and I have never blown and engine.
Same here, I buy the "high end" Fram filters for my vehicles but do them every 5k miles with synthetic blend. Been doing this since the 90s without issue. Synthetic obviously came along a bit later and I switched from 3k to 5k miles after finally accepting 5k was okay with the upgraded oil and filters combined. I use MotorCraft too since I'm a Ford fanboy. My Fords have gotten totaled before I've ever had to do any engine work (when you drive 160-230 miles a day for work, the fools will eventually catch up to you no matter how cautious you are).
Well I ran 265k miles on my Ford 4.6 and changed the oil maybe 10 times in its life. The engine ran strong and silent. Synthetic oil goes WAY beyond 5k miles. I'm currently running a Ford 5.0 with 199 thousand on the clock and change oil once every two years. I run fram filters and change every other oil change. As you can see by his test the filter media was basically clean after directly pouring in metal. I do not recommend my practices just stating my real world experience.
Sorry Rich, but ALL IC engines burn SOME oil.
Yours may be using a very small amount-from what you've written its not enough to need any added between oil changes, but still a measurable amount. My wife's Scion goes 7500-10,000 mi between changes and the oil level (of 5W-20 oil) drops VERY little. But without the thin film of oil that is metered through the OIL CONTROL rings (that's their name) engines would have much higher amounts of friction. The heat generated with no cylinder lubrication would be enough to quickly seize the engine.
That tiny bit of oil being supplied to the cross hatching of the cylinder walls, (or more, depending on your particular engine's state of wear) much of which burns off with each combustion cycle, is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to lubricate the cylinder walls.
@@donaldschmied5600 Ok I agree with you but if I'm down very little in oil consumption and I get a little fuel dilution into the oil bringing it back to level , I believe I've reached the best that can be obtained with direct injection technology. If I continue to have the exact same results at 200,000 plus miles , the motor wear is insignificant which is the desired result.
@@donaldschmied5600 EXACTLY, in fact the U.S. Army, Marine Corps, Navy, Air Force and Coast Guard require every engine evaluated for use in military service to burn a predesignated amount of oil!
Been running M1 EP oil and filters in all my vehicles for 15 years. Even in my 240k mile 5.4 3v that has known cam phaser issues and it's still quiet as a mouse fart. Glad to see the filter did so well.
I use K&N for the excellent flow rate and as you seen smoked everyone else on filtering out the junk. Don’t really care about capacity because of something clogged the filter you have bigger problems in the first place 😊 Mobil 1 is my second choice for sure
I have been changing my own oil for 40+ years and have never skimped on quality, oil or filter. I have been using K&N for the last couple of changes and have never seen a filter keep the oil so clean. I hope K&N doesn't change anything with these awesome filters.
Yea right
It would have been good to see Wix XP and Purolator Boss filters tested. Both are currently made in the USA and are top models for those companies.
Wix is no longer us made
Been using purolator since 97 and still do. Purolator used to put a gold grip on their cans kind of like the Fram filters years ago but it didnt last long. Still use them to this very day.
Wix is used on all the HD equipment at 28 mines that I contracted for over the past 20 years...
@@chrome2infinity938do you notice a difference between oil filter brands ?
It's highly likely the Mobile 1 had the lower operating psi because your favorite bypass valve design was opening allowing the lower pressure. I'll take the filter that is filtering the best.
Definitely need a Wix XP vs Purolator Boss vs European Mann filter vs Ford Motorcraft (Ford filters are cheaper in price than Supertech) maybe even an STP Extended life filter!! Great way to test them 👍
@ Jeff W. Thank you for the suggestions and your feedback! it is much appreciated
mann filter will be nice. i am willing to send you some european filters!
The Mobil 1 filters are made by Mann+Hummel
This was an awesome video! Love how the experiments were setup. Would love to see OEM brand filters compete (Toyota, Honda, Mopar, Motorcraft, etc.)
Hyundai and ac Delco filter test would be good with the other OEM filter test
Excellent detailed review. Your findings declaring the Mobil 1 filter to be superior to the rest have been verified by numerous reviews over the years. That is why I have used it for years for all my vehicles, as oil and filter changes are the most important part of ICE maintenance. Thanks taking the time to evaluate these filters.
Thank you so much for watching and supporting our channel. it means a lot to hear that you enjoyed.
What's your opinion on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum?
@@saulespino2510
Impressively, Saul, you highlighted the motor oil with the second best additive package in the U.S., second only to Ames oil. One thing to note: Ames oil costs $14/quart, whereas Pennzoil Ultra Platinum can be bought at Walmart for $5/quart in the 5-quart container. No one will ever be able to prove that Ames oil will give you longer engine life and better performance than Pennzoil UP. I have been using this oil and the Mobil 1 filter for years with great success, and saving $$$ in the process.
😘🥰👍
Echo chamber
Moroso Omni filter. ( Formerly known as the Oberg snitch filter) infinitely re-usable amd has a warning light . Also it filters down to around 10 microns. By the way they don't use throw away filters in NASCAR or many other types of hi-dollar racing.so, I have no idea why that was even mentioned.ya gotta love that mobil 1 though.
I have used Royal Purple filters for years and would love to see a comparison in this type of setup. This is probably the most well put together test of filters I've seen on YT so far! Great work!
@Daniel Baker Thank you so much for the encouraging words. We are definitely planning on testing the royal purple. Stay tuned! Thanks for the suggestion!
@@BrandRanks Can you do a separate test running E85 on fuel filters paper and stainless steel?
I used to work for a filtration manufacturer. Internally, Royal Purple is identical to Amsoil, Mobil-1, and a number of other boutique brands. They are manufactured by Champion Labs.
@@unclebob540i3 Do you happen to know if the toyota trd oil filters are in the same category as those?
@@torment6369 I'm pretty sure that one is Champion labs as well. Champion labs and FRAM make a lot of OE filters. Honda and Subaru oil filters are FRAM also, for example.
Thanks for this video. I really enjoyed it. As a Mobil 1 guy since the early 2000s, it's nice to see some reinforcement for my decision. I've run nothing but M1 oil and filters nearly my entire adult life. It's worth the 💰
Thank YOU for supporting the channel. So glad you enjoyed.
So glad I found your channel-awesome content!
You're like Project Farms kid brother who recently graduated from an esteemed engineering university and decided to channel his overflowing enthusiasm into intelligent product testing.
And I'm here for it!
@Nathan Folkemer Thank you so much. Glad you found us as well! Hope to bring awesome content for you to enjoy! Thank you for supporting the Channel!
Mobile 1 is the only filter and oil I've used for years. Thanks for the confirmation.
There is no manufacturer of this brand filter! 😮
The sheer effort to make this video....
Thank you for making it from UK.
He is measuring when the bypass valve opens
@moriwaki1105 Thank you so much for your kind words. We really appreciate you took the time to write this. Glad you enjoyed.
Great video. I have used the Mobil 1 extended performance filters in every car I recently owned within the past 10 years and I agree with your test. They are very good filters.
Thank you so much! Appreciate the support.
Что скажешь на счёт фильтра Man ?
@@twhalen 650,000 combined miles on 3 cars over many years and NO.
🔥🔥🔥Why was WIX not involved in this test!?!?! 🔥🔥🔥
Excellent comprehensive video on oil filter testing. My only thought was to run the dirty oil through the system without a filter first, so that the subsequent filters weren’t at a disadvantage, although I would assume the difference would very possibly be negligible. I also saw another comment saying run the test at normal operating temperature as that may have an impact on performance as well. That being said, seeing as they were all run at ambient temperature there may be a difference in how much media was filtered, I doubt there would be any significant difference between the results between the different filters. Thank you for sharing!
Holy shit this channel came out of nowhere with insane production value. Y'all took a lot of effort and time to make this. Subscribed to support y'all. Please don't burn out and pace yourselves I know how difficult it is to consistently produce content at that level.
@Slide Wreck Dan Thank you so much for taking the time to write this. It really means a lot that you appreciate all the hard work that went into this. Defiystill learning and the community has been great with some awesome feedback. Juggling full time jobs and doing RUclips is pretty daunting, but the response what's been great and comments like yours keeps us motivated. Thank you so much! We appreciate you immensely and glad that you subscribed.
Yep
This was one of the best breakdowns I've seen. Very thorough and easy to understand. Showing the interior of the the filters after the process definitely exposes some of the design flaws.
I used nothing but Mobil 1 and a Fram filter in my old 2002 Chevy Blazer that I bought new. Passed it down to my daughter when she was in college. Had almost 270,000 miles on it when I sold it. And didn’t use any oil. Maintenance is key!!
I used to use a bypass filter along with the normal full flow filter. It would filter constantly even and especially at higher engine rpm, and filter down to 5 micron. Since it is so restrictive, the full flow (normal) filter was there to provide filtering AND oil to vital engine components. However oil that was 2 years old was just as clean as it was at 500 miles. I changed the bypass once a year.
The Fram filters particles above 20 microns. The other 3 start at 30 microns. That''s a significant difference. Might add particle size distribution testing to the lab tests.
IDK, it may not offer much of a practical difference, especially if its filter media can spread out more. It's definitely one of those numbers I don't believe unless I see it verified.
Definitely second the parti😊😊cle size testing, it's a very good idea.
Does it really matter? Yes and no. The vast majority of particulate can’t be filtered out by 20 or 30 µm. It does hamper the flow though. As the filter loads up. So be careful what you wish for especially if you’re running a GM V8 which wants high flow
@@sbond1963 I wouldn't buy a fram if the box told me it'd make me shit gold
@@jordanlong00 I use the Fram tough guard. Love that filter. Spin on and the cartridge version.
@jordanlong00 Honestly, me neither, especially for the cheap ones. Their build quality and quality control are lacking
I have been using the mobil1 filter for a long time, look like I will continue with that. Thanks for the great video!
I always use Mobile oil filters and synthetics. For a few bucks more. I never have expensive motors issues.
Thank you for performing this test and posting here. Most of the oil filter reviews I have seen focus on cutting open the can an performing a visual inspection. Knowing how well the filter will actually function allows for an informed decision on which "brand" to use.
@My Phone, You're welcome! We're glad that you found our test informative and useful.
Bypass valves are very common and a very good thing. Even in aviation we have them because unfiltered oil or fluid is better than none.
Most of these filters look like they'd cause a huge issue the second they bypass, since they build up so much material at the bottom of the filter. That's still better than no oil and won't be an issue if it's changed regularly though.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Take a look at the place of filter of your car, it is very likely that it is not vertical so all the gunk is not underneath this bypass valve. even in this video it is at 90 degrees angle. Also you need opening valve pressure to be the same as the original. if it is weaker than needed, then you may have early openings; and if it is stronger than needed, your engine may struggle without oil.
I Would like to see when Bypass valves activate or fail?
I liked the testing process and seeing the results in the bar graphs. Simple advice for us DIY drivers: whether you choose brand X or Y filters, be very diligent about Regular Oil Changes!
Oil and filters are CHEAP and new engines EXPENSIVE !!
@Rick Fenestra Thank you for your feedback! Lots of work went into this and we are glad you enjoyed. Also, can't agree more with your advice. Oil filter changes are number one priority.
👍
The bypass opens between 2-5bar. When the engine is cold, no oil is filtered, everything goes in the bypass. Most engines have an oil pressure of 3 bar and above. Test the filters without the bypass valve and with different oil temperatures and see how much oil flows through the oil filters!
The oil does get filtered cold, if the right multigrade oil is used.
Great review!
My Dad and I use Frams Ultra Synthetic filters for all ours cars and so far no issues. The tape grip on the back helps a ton as well with installation.
I've rebuilt hundreds of failed engines. They all had a Fram filter.
Fram only makes fake filters
some number of years ago, i saw another video doing oil filter reviews. they cut open brand new filters to observe the construction and the fram had rusty parts and metal shavings in it. before seeing that video i was a Fram guy myself. now i only use Wix
@@elixeroflifeim sure other brands if cut open can be the same lol
@@elixeroflifei have heard people say fram oil filters gaskets come off. I find it strange fram is all me and my dad has ever used and we have never had a problem lol
@@nunya8048 only issue ive had with Fram is hearing debris rattle around inside, new right out of the box. and at times being rusty.
The production quality is insane. Only 15K subs? Consuder me impressed. Great video! New sub!
👋 Hey! Thank you souch for your kind words. It means so much to us. A lot of work goes into this and comments like yours make it worth it. Thanks for your support!
random and BrandRanks, I switched to Mobil 1, since I owned a 1990 Buick LeSabre, a 2004 Buick LeSabre, and a 2013 Chevy Avalanche. What are the thoughts on Lucas Oil Stop Leak, and Marvel Mystery Oil?
I would have loved to see you test the Toyota filter, since you can get them at walmart next to the other brands
Also, I like how in depth you tested the filters. It reminds me of Project Farm videos in a good way. Keep it up!
I change my filter with every oil change, but generally use Mobil 1 or K&N on my dailies, and Moroso/Amsoil filters on my track cars. For the dailies I just run OTS Mobil 1, or sometimes Rotella T6… but the track cars get either Redline/Royal Purple/Motul (depending on what they have on the shelf that day) that gets changed out after each event. I’m probably super excessive, but I’d like to think clean oil is like a clean blood stream, the cleaner the better.
Indeed it is. Even small particles can cause damage over time. Nothing wrong with taking care of your investment. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel.
Great work, nice tests, good editing... Splendid video. Learned about filters I was ACTUALLY considering. Please do more brands like Pennzoil or Castrol synthetics, Wix filters, etc.! You definitely earned a subscriber and a like from me. Have a great day!
@Chris Friend Thank you so much for your kind words! It's a slow grind to gain traction in RUclips, but comments like yours keeps us going and motivated. Your words make a huge difference. We will DEFINETLY attempt to do other brands if our budget allows. Have an amazing day and again, Thank you for your support🙂
I by no means, recommend cheaping out and using Orange and SIlver fram filters. However, and with exception, I've been quite impressed with the XGs. And I do continue to use them. The quality does reflect in their price.
The XG seems to be the only Fram that has quality. If you change oil every 3k miles' you can probably use the cheapie filters.
you must be behind on the times....cause even the Orange Fram has a good build quality now.
I'd probably go with the better oil flow over filtering, simply because it's easy to change the oil more often, which will reduce wear, whereas oil starvation will destroy your engine far more rapidly.
Exactly. Best to go with OEM with perfect pressure specs
@@hjer731thank#, great idea….actually went that way( esp MOPAR, lots GMC), last several years….Switched to BOSS , generally now
There's a bypass though
@@hjer731OEM is good , though this test would probably lean me towards the Mobil 1 .
Paper filter that filters down to 20 microns at the highest % is your best option.
Do you change your filter at every oil change or at every other oil change? I have always bought larger or and longer oil filters when ever I can .. for a small Block Chevy I could easily find a much larger oil filter for $3.50 to $4.50
It's Crazy, they sell K&N Oil filters for Motorcycles for like $15.00 I have bought Fram Motorcycle oil filters from Walmart for $4.11 recently while the Local Power Sports dealer was selling the same Part # for $12.00
Subscribed, this was very thorough and well done. Hope you are compensated with many views and more subscribers and can’t wait to see more
This video came up in my feed, and I have to say you did a fantastic job, this video is getting all the views it deserves. Bravo
@GarageKing Thank you so much for your kind words. It means a lot that you took the time to write this. Glad you and others are enjoying it. Thank you for the support 🙂
I had always been a Puralator /Fram guy many years ago. when to me Fram was the better filter but over the years each manufacturer started skimping on their products and I started using OE filters with very good success and started about 8 years ago using Wix filters which I am also very happy with
@1995dresser, It's great to hear that you've found success with OE filters and Wix filters. Thanks for your comment!
My mom works for fleetguard Cummins filtration, she said on the assembly line that one filter goes one way and gets painted white with a fleetguard label stuck on it and the next goes the other way and gets painted orange with the frame logo stuck on it, so if you can find fleetguard filters (same with air filters too) they are the same as fram for like a third the cost, she been with the company for over 35 years now
@@diychad7268 but frams end cap has a different design and the micron rating is different, so the parts must be different, no?
Thank God because that's what I use in my 2013 Toyota Highlander with 0w 20 20k miles full synthetic, Mobile 1. excellent brand
You have a Toyota engine, brand of oil doesn’t matter, as long as you change the oil every 5k-10k you’re good.
@@stephenkeller8208… As long as it’s full synthetic … I heard Toyota motors can get sludged up if you don’t use full synthetic, engines are designed for that …
Nice test. and honest comparison.
There are definitely many more filters that could be compared to these.
I've got 235000 miles on my 02 Ford F150, using nothing but Motorcraft oil and filters.
They've worked so well to this point, I don't plan on changing...
Not sure what the "high mileage" filters or oil do differently, but I subscribe to the theory "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"
I same here I just use fomoco filters 500.000 k on my99 7.3 ps nd 97 400.000 on my 97 ps nd all my other half dozen fords that I have had the past 20 years including my 66 fairlane 500 xl 289 ❤
I think the FoMoCo oil filters are 1 of the best
Don't know how you only have 5k subscribers. The quality of video and editing are insane and its extremely well made. Keep it up, and you'll definitely be rewarded!
@Alek Shyblosky Thank you so much for your kind words. It's been a steep learning curve so far! Didn't know how much we didn't know about video production. We appreciate you taking the time to write this comment. it really means a lot to us and keeps us motivated!
The methods you used to test the filters and the overall production quality is very impressive. Subbed
Thank you so much. Your words mean a lot to us and keep us motivated.
Holding less grams of aluminum powder may not be a bad thing. It may mean that the filter has smaller pores, this clogging more quickly, but also filtering smaller particles. And if there were this much aluminum in the oil, the engine would be toast anyway.
i think as long as you change your oil often it doesnt really matter.. using a cheap filter and oil and changing every 4-5k miles vs using the best of the best and changing at 10-12k i think the cheaper is better.. changing your oil is what is important
You don't want to use mineral oil cold starts is where the damage is done good oil %100 amsoil is one of the best to stop metal shedding on cold starts.
%100 Ester oil
Changing the oil is a good thing but you want the parts fully protected and definitely wanna use %100 Ester oil if you live in cold climate areas the cold starts will cause metal shedding.
You’d be very wrong
@@ohboy2592 i have owned well over 50 vehicles and do not use expensive oil yet have never had an engine fail because of a problem with the oil. so chances are i might be very right.. but life experience and knowledge mean little in todays world compared to internet knowledge
I've been using mobil1 extended life filters for years. I'm glad this test reinforces what I already knew. 😊
Glad to hear. Thanks for supporting our channel.
А что на счёт фитров Man ?
I’d love to see an OE filter thrown in the mix. Fantastic test!
Been using Super Tech for many years. Haven't had an issue yet. 276,000 miles on my Civic that sits outside during the upper Midwest winters.
The testing you did was the best I’ve seen so far but I use Purolator oil filters and would like to know the performance of them. The design and specs. Of them they should do very well with your testing. Thanks, Steve.
@Stev B thank you so much for you kind words. We try to make the best content possible to help everyone make better decisions. Thanks for the recommendation, we will try to incorporate on a future video! Again, thanks for supporting the channel.
Fram now has a synthetic endurance. Starts with FE.
The titanium is like the og ultra.
I like the microgard select too and Purolator boss. Haven't tried the fram synthetic endurance but I bought 3 of them. Like how they look and are designed.
@jacob wyatt, thank you so much for your recommendation. We were not aware of that new one! We will take a look and see if we can include it in future videos. Thank you for your support!
They do look pretty impressive.
By far the best filter testing I've seen so far. I use bosch premium and wix and would like to see those tested. Keep up the good work!
Bosch? Go watch Wip City Wrencher (whip city?) He was sent a Bosch filter with a manufacturing defect
@@CORVAIRWILD will do!
I used a k&n filter on my ford ranger cause i got it on a sale at autozone, my oil pressure dropped in the truck and i had keep the idle up just to make the oil light go off. Went to walmart and got my fram, and never switched again. I use fram in my 03 Ranger, 06 Fusion, 09 F150 and 12 Fusion. Never changing again.
Great comparison. Nice editing, well done.
@jafo461 Thank you so much for your kind words. Comments like yours keeps us motivated, especially through the slow and tedious process of growing a small channel. Thank you for supporting us🙂
I appreciate you taking the time to build a rig to really test filters! Every other RUclips video I've seen have just been breakdown videos where they compare visuals. It is this type of independent testing that truly informs us. Definitely subscribing.
One minute detail would be heat, as oil viscosity is very different at operating temp and could make a drastic difference in filter performance.
One more thing that was left out in this video though was the oil bypass performances. All of those filters' bypasses are going to open at different pressures, and that is arguably one of the most important factors as play. Sure, one may have better flow than another or may have more surface area/better media in the filter... but if it is possible that one of these filters' bypasses opened during testing to allow dirty oil to flow then it would not only make the test inaccurate but it also implies that the filter was not actually functioning as intended during testing.
I wonder if there is a way to modify the filter housings so we have an indication if the bypass opens? I think this should be a high priority when testing longevity, as oil filter manufacturers today (pointing the finger at K&N) use this exact argument to market their product as being superior; sure, the other filters have better specifications, but those specifications don't matter if their bypass is open 1,000 miles before your next oil change or your vehicle is bypassing the filter on every cold start in the winter.
Personally, I'd rather see this test on motorcycle filters. The engines are smaller and more delicate, so it logically makes the most sense to me to truly want to get the best performing filter overall in that situation. To be picky, it would be nice to do Harley Davidson filters for twin cam/M8 as these are the two most common engines right now, they make their own, push consumers to use their own, but don't have testing to prove theirs is actually best for their engines.
#Perfect!!! 🙌🏻👍🏻
ok but these tests are NOT CERTIFIED ASTM
You make me glad I use mobil1, but I was impressed with the fram ultra and sell those at work too
I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil and matching filters in my 2006 Acura CSX. I put around 10-12,000 kms on my car per year; mostly short trips in town. Even though the oil is claimed to be good for one year or 25,000 kms, I change it twice per year in the spring and in the fall. I buy the oil and filters ahead of time when they’re on sale; meaning I can do premium synthetic oil changes for less than $60 here in Canada. I also like knowing exactly what is going into my car, that it’s done right, and I can look at other components while I’m under the car.
Some people might say that the auto engineers know best when they suggest oil change intervals of 10-15 thousand miles between oil changes. However, those intervals allow them to claim lower annual maintenance costs in their marketing. Also, it’s probably fair to say that the manufacturers probably care more about the engine just making it past their factory warranty rather than the customer getting the absolute most life out of their engine.
Thank you for sharing and for watching!
Thanks for putting in the time and effort towards creating such an in depth, educational video. The tests were all well done and relevant towards the actual use and function of oil filters.
Taking them all apart and explaining the various parts as well as their purpose was the icing on the cake for me.
I like to use the fram ultra synthetic xg3593a in place of the much smaller XG6607 found in many applications. It adds oil capacity and additional filter surface areas.
Noice. My vehicle uses that 6607. Have to see if this works for me.
Unless the pressure drop within the oil filter is enough to trip the bypass valve, it is generally of low importance as automotive engines use a positive displacement oil pump. That means they pump oil even with high back pressure. You don't get a reduction in flow with higher back pressure. The ONLY thing you should care about is how clean the oil is at the end of the test and how much junk they can hold.
They claim 99% removal. What percent did each actually remove? Doesn't look like they did what they claim.
In addition to the lab test: I suggest you get a positive displacement pump. Load up each oil filter - determining max particles they can hold, which will be indicated when the pressure no longer increases (because the bypass is kicking in). You won't be able to use hose clamps or the clear hose (think hydraulic hose). You should be able to use the clear hose after the oil filter when it drains back to reservoir.
Also suggest you try different models from each brand to Attempt to reduce brand variability.
Overall great start.
Can you also test the Motorcraft that is typically used in Fords? Great video, new sub for sure!
@David Ortiz Thank you for the recommendation! We will try our best to include everyone recommendations. We appreciate you subscribing. Makes a huge difference an gets us closer to that magic 1000 subscribers! Again, much appreciated🙂
Motor craft are base puraltors.
The Mobil 1 filter has the weakest bypass valve. That's why it had the lowest pressure in the first test. The bypass valve open earlier than the others. That's also why it did so poorly in other filtration test, because the oil was bypassing the filter media due to the weak bypass spring.
What I'd really like to see is a test of say 3 of each filter purchased from 3 locations and of hopefully different batch numbers to see what consistency differences are present between identical products.
Great video guys!
You would hope that there would be non, obviously. It’s an oil filter with no moving parts. There shouldn’t be manufacturing variations.
I like the lack of mention of delta p. I also like how you find a 30 micron filter superior to a 20. Engines still during normal use see 20 micron. Its also been shown that filtering at 20 micron has not hurt anyones oil pressure where people have had lack of lubrication. Test doesnt tell the whole story.
Thanks for the feedback, make sure to go watch our latest video, were we made several improvements to the testing. Thanks for watching!
I hope to see more filter tests using the same criteria. It's tough to go into a store with a dozen choices, only to have test results from just a few of them. Another thing to note is which filters are the same, but just rebranded.
Rebranding is good info, for sure.
I have a 2002 Duramax diesel. I changed it to a caterpillar filter, took an extra quart of oil. It's still stock except for 4 inch exhaust. I changed oil every 5000 miles. It has 40lbs pressure at idle and 70 running. No internal engine problems
Got 265,000 miles on it.
I drive a Ford. So I use a Motorcraft filter. If I choose another brand of oil and filter, I usually go with Mobil 1.
We will be testing motorcraft. Thanks for watching.
If you do more oil filters in the future, it would be great to have an excel spreadsheet or something like that to compare all the filters.
It would be interesting to see this test with the added effect of operating oil temperature. Temperature plays a huge role in the assumed conditions of what running engines oil will behave like. I wonder how much it would change the outcome of this test 🤔
This test is not authentic ALL test must be run by ASTM STANDARDS !!
Even worse is super cold oil which almost always causes the filter to bypass until the oil warms up.
I have a Mahle canister filter or two to give you. If you want it can be a Mahle spin on type! Let me know! The Supertech looks shockingly like an AC Delco filter or a Fram Drive filter from Advance Auto Parts. With that being said, the AC Delco filters I know are very good in a standard oil change interval of about 5,000 to 7,500 miles, but after that I like to recommend the Mobil 1 filter. The one thing I love about the AC Delco filters is the flow at wide open throttle. It's not a normal plastic core and it makes it have a better flow rate through the filter. For those with a huge amount of miles on their engines, I tend to recommend a Fram Drive/AC Delco Professional or a Wix filter and no more than a 5,000 mile oil change interval to keep the oil pressure up. Just don't run them longer than 10,000 miles because those filters don't like to have a ton of pressure from contaminants on them. I had to educate a Saturn owner about the problems with running those "E-Core" filters too long and their oil filter had just started to collapse from the pressure. They understood, but like the car, so they'll be coming in at least every 4 months now to get their oil and filter. I also have a friend that's a journeyman electrician and he has a 2014 F150 5.0 with 231k miles on it. We just did another oil change on it with Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w20 and just recently switched to the High Mileage variant. At the 213k mile mark he JUST got the first oil leak on his engine. The rear main seal.Even then it's a single barely damp dribble out the weep hole. We have not touched the oil system on the truck yet, but have changed every coolant hose on the engine. He's used the Mobil 1 EP oil now since about 2018 when it came out.
@Marcello Colotario Thank you for this great info, we will definetly see if we can get our hands on an AC delco. You have some good advice here. We really appreciate your support!
This just confirmed that the Fram Ultra is a good filter. None of the other filters were filtering to 20 microns, the amount of aluminum dust was excessive and the oil wasn't at operating temp. You need to heat the oil to 200 degrees, and weigh the filters before and after to see which one collected the most contaminants. It's a flawed test, but I saw nothing to make me change from the Fram Ultra filter, although the M1 looked good.
This was awesome. I love the tear down videos, but I DEFINITELY love when a rigorous scientific approach is used to tell the real story. I recognized the Blackstone Laboratory container instantly lol
@James Bumgardner Thank you so much for taking the time to leave this comment. It really means a lot, especially to a small channel. You have a good eye! 😁
Do more with oil filters. So much to learn. Awesome video
Thank you so much for you support. It really means a lot. We are definitely looking into doing more.
Please put the Purolater Boss and P1 to this test. These are very popular premium filters.
Thank you so much for the recommendation and for supporting our channel! @wswlll
Do Mann filters too!
Wix
@@SeattleDinghyerMann Hengst, and Mahle are pretty much cartridge filters for the most part. Found in European cars. They don't have drain back valves as those are incorporated into the oil filter housings found on the engines themselves.
The element is all pretty much the same shit. They all pretty much filter more or less the same. 🤷♂️
Any filter around $10.00 give or take a buck or two should be sufficient. I’m a Mobil One filter guy for my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 144,000 miles and still runs great no burning or leaking. High mileage oils have conditioners to keep the seals in good condition so I would recommend them. Best oil is clean oil.
The starting point for the graphs not being 0 makes the differences in performance seem larger than they are. Also, just for the sake of weeding out potential good or bad samples, i think it would be cool to test multiple of each type of filter. Other than that, great video!
One of my all-time favorite posts from the Internet;
“When I am king, the first ones against the wall will be the ones who make charts that don’t start at zero.”
Also those differences were mostly showing which bypass flowed more. The people running the test didn't understand a pressure above the bypass rating means the filter was in bypass. The proper test would be to restrict the flow after the filter to build the pressure and measuring the difference to the pre filter pressure.
Wow this test was put together really well I can’t wait to see more car parts tested on this channel💪🏾
@Mr.GainsX Thank you so much for your kind words! It really mean a lot to hear that you enjoyed it. Definitely planning on it, throw some suggestions!
Thanks for doing this test. I had requested this very test over at Project Farm, but he never took on the challenge. You guys did and I applaud that. I have a suggestion. Other than the Supertech, you tested high end filters. I think the vast majority of car owners would like to know what the average filters can do. For example, the Wix, Bosch and Purolator are very popular. The Supertech is pretty darn popular too because of the price and availability pretty much anywhere. This is a good baseline filter to measure against others. Well done on the test method and setup. Keep up the great work.
@toolwarrior thank you so much for your kind words. It mean a lot to hear that you enjoyed. That is a great idea and we definitely plan to make follow up videos and we will take that into consideration. We might start with the high end ones, but we will get tot he other ones as well. Thank you for your support!
Project Farm has a full plate. The hardest working guy on YT.
But Project Farm can't "take on" every "challenge" that every Joe Schmuck on the internet asks for. LOL. Do you think they have time for absolutely everything? If you want to be fair.... Project Farm has taken on projects these guys have not. How much you want to bet me that I can suggest things for BR to test, in which they don't "take on the challenge"? So then should I take pot shots at them like you just did to Project Farm? LOL. Next time, think a little bit before typing. Great job by this channel, by the way! Awesome job, and awesome test! I'm a subscriber!
I always used Fram and I get over 400,000 miles on my Chrysler 300 3.5L My 2007 died last year at 467,000 miles and it was the timing belt. I had a 2013 that got to 323,000 but was totaled in a crash. My current 300 is a 2006 with 288,000 so far. I will still use fram.
same here i have used fram filters since 1967, had many trucks run over 300000 miles