Fram has a sketchy drain back valve cu they can get a possible bad seal after so much buildup caught. Also fram does filter pretty good but also with that it takes a lotore pressure to move the oil and so the oil doesn't flow as smooth and fast which can cause a lack of oil to certain parts in the motor if running the motor at high performance. Mobile 1 extended performance one of the best
I switched to those Microguard filters and haven't had a single issue. I did some research and from my findings, the Microguard is made by WIX. If you notice, the part numbers between the two actually match, just the Microguard has other identification numbers along with it. But take two filters that match, and the part numbers will correspond to each other. Also another cheap alternative to WIX is NAPA filters, also made by WIX.
Wix is also now owned by MANN+HUMMEL one of the largest filtration companies in the world. Still have the local plants in NC but they have MANN+HUMMEL on the signage now.
@@Nellis202 amsoil oil and filter almost ruined a new chevy engine, i don't have proof other than my word, i switched back to mobile 1 and never looked back.
When I was trained at a retail store to remove every Fram filter from the box to ensure that it was the correct filter, I would notice that most had metal filings inside the center from cutting the threads. I learned to check every Fram filter. Surprisingly, when I would shew this to the customer, I never had anyone who rejected to buy one. Never understood why anyone would buy a $75,000 truck and stick the cheapest oil and filter in it.
I have been using AMSOIL lubricants for over 40 years and their filters for around 15-20 years. Never had a problem and I used to go the full 25K between changes. I am now old and no-longer drive nearly as much, so I change the filters once a year, which is about 8-10,000 miles! I have 270,000 miles on my 2005 F-150 and it runs great. I do have to add about 1 quart per every 5,000 miles of driving, which is ok, in my opinion.
@@Frank_Diaz. - yeah, a lot has taken place in the year since I first posted. I did get a new PCV valve and it did help out some. Unfortunately, I had a head gasket blow 2,000 miles from home and the engine blew almost immediately at 283,465 miles. It was an expensive vacation trip; not oil related, etc.
Good comparison. But, to me the most important thing for a filter to do is......filter. I think it's interesting that you gave high marks to K&N and WIX even though there is no filtration efficiency listed on your chart for either. My choice based upon filtration efficiency (99%, 20 micron) and price ($10.97) is the FRAM Ultra Synthetic.
Very good video. I have been changing oil in cars for over 40 years now and I have used a wide variety of filters over this period of time. What I have learned is the consistency coupled with using the correct oil for your vehicle is as or more important than the manufacturer of the oil or filter. Give me a Fram filter and store brand oil in the correct weight and type with changes every 6 months or 5k and the average person will not have an issue during the life of the vehicle.
@@mountaintruth1deeds533 Short trip driving is as or more impactful to the oil than running it past it's intended life. The reason is the oil becomes contaminated with moisture and other contaminates of combustion that are never burned off because the engine does not stay at operating temperature long enough to burn them off. Changing the oil and filter on a regular basis ensures these contaminants are removed from the engine, especially the water or moisture that can accumulate.
I stopped changing oil in 1963 with a Frantz oil cleaner and Delo 30 weight oil. All I have to clean oil these days is the Australian Jackmaster Classic Motor Guards and the Gulf Coast junior. I use Super Tech from Walmart. The Wix on the Pontiac has 63.000 miles on it. Not much in a modern engine large enough to be removed by a full flow filter.The Ford diesel tractor has a flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use a 4 1/2 inch roll of Scott 1000 toilet paper. It has a Fram full flow filter to get the big stuff. Not the cheapest Fram.
Absolutely agree, not changing the most expensive oil and filter over 15-20 k miles is definitely risky in my opinion. Good middle of the road products will serve you better than pushing things through. Change it regularly at 3-5 k and you are going to be fine
@@mountaintruth1deeds533 That's an easy one. If you only drive the vehicle 20 miles a week the oil never gets up to temperature to boil off he water which is a byproduct of combustion. The water then combines with the sulfur in the oil and forms sulfuric acid. One of the partners in the CPA firm where I did my internship knew an engineer at Ford that was given a car that he could only driver the 5 miles back and forth to work every day. At the end of 12,000 miles the engine was junk. Take it for what it's worth. Now if the car just sits for 6 months and is not driven at all it won't affect the oil much but that leads to other issues. The best thing you can do is drive the vehicle at least 50 miles at 50 or more miles per hour at least once a week to boil the water out of the oil.
I enjoy watching the tear down of oil filters as a DIY'er for 40 years with multiple vehicles. I've used most of these filters and the bottom line is if you change your filter every 5-6 K miles like I do with a good synthetic oil you'll be totally fine. The length of miles doesn't apply to me. I use whatever is on sale. Never had an oil related problem.
So acouple of years ago after watching acouple of these videos. I used 2 fram oil filters in a row then 2 mobil 1 in a row on the same truck. Ran them the same distance using the same oil. And sent samples in the a oil testing lab. They daid they couldn't see any difference between the filters.
Other filters have better designs and build quality. The question of Fram filter haters like me is, why are they still being sold at the same price as a well made oil filter. Could these people be the same as those who voter for lost causes and fall for online con-games?.
So, knowing that you are using an bad filter why will you continue? You can see just like the rest of us, , its junk, , but you will still use it? There are better choices, do yourself a favor and spend a couple dollars more.
Interesting comparison, I do enjoy seeing the filters all cut up to see what they are actually made of. What I am interested in is the number for the By-Pass Valve Setting PSI. Wix lists this number on their site but not many others do. I would be interested to know more about this as Subaru’s have higher PSI rating of 23PSI and up.
FWIW....recently received Blackstone UOA for my 2018 Subaru 3.6R at 75,000 miles. I change oil every 6,000 per mfg spec. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. Only difference for this interval was use of Purolator Boss filter instead of previously used OEM Tokyo Roki. (Purolator Boss is a premium filter with a reputation for higher-quality filtration.) Tokyo Roki has 23psi bypass. Purolator Boss has mid-teens psi bypass as do almost all others. The UOA numbers for "wear metals" and "insolubles" using the Purolator Boss were exactly the same as with previous OEM filter....but the Purolator Boss costs twice as much. My take-away from the experiment is that in my environment and with my driving style there is zero benefit to premium oil filter compared with OEM. Apparently the bypass spec difference between OEM and after-market filters is as much a non-issue as the purported quality-difference of the filter itself...at least for me. I am a "normal" conservative driver. Perhaps racers or drivers who's pattern involves constant. or frequent high-revs would have shown different results.
Great video. I'm glad my filters of choice (Wix and Amsoil) came out on top. The price of an oil filter is WAY cheaper than a spun rod bearing or a flattened camshaft. Keep up the great work.
You're the the kinda guy that falls for anything. Stop it with that nonsense! Change your oil at 5000 miles. There's no oil or oil filter that eliminates combustion byproducts within the oil. The byproduct of combustion turns the oil into a acidic mess that will damage valve stem seals, any o-rings and of course all of the gaskets throughout the engine. So sure you can get the most expensive oil and filter... Just remember to change that all out at 5000 miles.
@@davidwalker7383 So a fram $6 10k is going to be more than good changed @5k and I don't see much benefit in buying a $10+ filter.I will buy the $8-9 fram ultra synthetic but I will change it @5k still
Been using the supertech 10k filter on my 2015 Accord v6 coupe for almost 9 years with zero issues. I use top quality full synthetic motor oil and change it every 5-6k without deviation. Consistency is more important than high price filters. Im not saying go el cheapo but tge supertech is very inexpensive and has done a fantastic job for me. I also use it on my daughter's 21' Corolla with zero issues. Great bang for your buck! Dont see a need to upgrade when im super consistent and i use top quality synthetic oil. Just ny thoughts.
Nice to see build quality. Now I want to see testing manufacture claims. Run them with known particulate size suspended in oil for the length of time and then lab test that oil. That would be sweet. My manual 4x4 94 ranger 4.0 w/250K has only used Fram or less and still doesn't burn oil. Cheers!
I’ve always adapted Cat filters for my Duramax. Was Cat tech for 30+ years and have seen comparisons with all. Plus I get an employee discount which helps
I have two classic Corvettes that are driven a few thousand miles a year. I like the sound of AC Delco's two year time interval since I will never come close to the mileage limit.
I work at O’Reilly’s and just want to point out MicroGuard whether that’s the regular or microguard select (like in this video) are made by Wix and are equal to the regular Wix filter. Same thing with the cabin and motor air filters.
The Select is made by one of Premium Guards contractors out of Vietnam.. Go check some of your Select model filters and look at where it's made.. and then check the support or technical phone number on the back of the box.
As well as the super tech from Walmart. Its manufacturers are Wix and Champion. Super Tech Filter and Super Tech Oil and change every 3-5000 miles (like anyone should no matter what oil and filter they use) and your vehicles engine will never break down for anything related to your choices of oil and filter.
I’ve been using microgard. They seem like good filters. I couldn’t trust a high mileage rating filter. I change ever 6k with full synthetic and replace the filter every time even though my car says I only have to every other change. Why not, it’s cheap insurance.
Been using mobil 1 filters for 5 or 6 years now and never had an issue. The efficiency of the Mobil 1 filter is incredible and that’s why I chose it also the flow rate is amazing to. You should actually test the filters instead of just opening them up and taking about them.
@@kellismith4329 People, their money and their vehicles is a funny combination. I worked at a Napa store for two years. Guys with $80 000 pickups buying $25 rotors & pads and truck stop oil. Then come back a week later and buy $100 rotors and $20 oil for their ATV. No joking, this happened daily. Another customer was a millionaire lobster fisherman. He used Amsoil in his Harley, Sam's Club oil in his lobster boat and Escalade.
@@TheBeatenPaths yes I believe it I worked at oriellys and these guys would come in nice vehicles wanting the cheapest oil and filter possible while the guys with clunkers would buy royal purple with k&n filters? 🤷♂️
Thank you for this video, it has made servicing my car engine so much easier. I have a Suzuki SX4, the filter is located up there, some ware, behind a beam and on top of the exhaust sensor. Up to now, I have been terrified with busting the sensor when trying to get an old filter to let go. I've heard of K&N but not familiar with them, just by chance our local parts shop has started to stock K&N. I found suitable filter and simply spun it up with a one inch socket. Anticipate it should come out just as easily.
Good morning Dan, excellent video. One of the best on oil filters. I would like you to test the regular WIX and maybe the Microgard regular. I have used the Microgard and I was satisifed with it and now I'm using the WIX. Keep the videos coming my friend.
The purpose of the filter is to maintain cleanliness to prevent wear so the beta ratio micron rating and dirt holding Capacity should be the attribute with the highest scaling factor used in the comparison
Most important thing about the gadgets for me, is that they are thick and pretty pliable . I had a K&N that was not and resulted in oil leaks that were almost impossible to notice as it only leaked when it got hot.
I have been using FRAM for years, and never had any issues with them. But because of the low price, I can switch out the filter for a new one, keep it cleaner without always tossing out otherwise good oil for the sake of a 5000 mile oil change. Just change the filter every 3.5K miles and you can stretch your oil to 7 or 8K miles. Just replace the oil into the filter with new oil to replace what the old one took out. However, if you are experiencing unusual dirty oil sooner, then you have a mechanical problem even the best oil filters can't fix.
I rarely, if ever, see Royal Purple filters in any oil filter comparisons, and you are no exception. It's been my choice for years with its synthetic filter materials and superb overall quality of components
I also have a 2017 Subaru Outback boxer 4. I’ve always used the blue OEM Subaru filter until I recently learned it is made by Fram and has the cheap paper end caps! I’m now planning to order the black Subaru filter by Tokyo Rokki (made in Japan) for all future oil changes.
I removed the full flow filter on my 84 Subaru when it was new. Put a Frantz oil cleaner on it and Mobil 1. Didnt drain the oil for 250.000 miles. Was bragging about it on RUclips. A Caterpillar lab manager sent me a sample kit. He said it looks good for 250.000 miles but recommended a filter change every 6000 miles and a new quart of oil instead of every 12.000 miles. I took his advise. The 93 Legacy has 240.000 on it now..Probably an even better car than the 84. It uses Motor Guards on the engine and transmition. Went to synthetic Walmart oil at about 225.000 miles. Has a bad senser somewhere. Getting hard to start when cold. Cooling fans wont turn off..Not a Subaru mechanic. Put a fuel injector in the intake manifold with a push button switch to get me thru the winter.heater dont work on the Pontiac AC dont work on the Subaru.
@@mark8684 I have the exact same Subie as you and also stopped with the dealer provided "Fram" filters. I just switched to the WIX XP and continue to do my oil changes per the factory manual. No issues ever (and I also use the Fumoto valve like thousands of other Subie owners).
Looking at the cut filters, especially the Microguard (3:17), with so many pleats and under oil pressure it appears like the folds would touch together basically negating that filter area, unless there is some backing to hold the folds apart to allow oil to pass through into some open area to get to the center. So more pleats may give less useable area.
NAPA Gold and Platinum filters are made by WIX. The Platinum is the same as the WIX XP. They are cheaper than WIX and more often go on sale. NAPA filters also have WIX address on the side of the box.
NAPA filters are no longer made by WIX. NAPA claimed WIX "couldn't handle the demand," and now sources from multiple other manufacturers overseas, primarily Premium Guard. There was a whole thing with Royalty Auto Service after they pulled all of their NAPA filters after a WIX rep told them that WIX wasn't making them. NAPA flew four execs to his shop to do damage control.
Great video--I would like to comment that if you are doing 10k mile oil changes, you are probably doing more damage to your engine than if you ran the cheapest filter possible and changed oil/filter at 5k. As any mechanic what they think of long oil change intervals--they all change their oil around 5k.
As always, follow the manufacture oil change interval as shown in the owner’s manual. For “severe” usage, which can be towing, short distance drives, dusty driving conditions, lots of idling, very cold weather, or driving where road salt is used, the interval can be 3,000 miles! Since I live in Michigan, I have to change the oil every 3,000 miles (regardless of whether synthetic or conventional oil) in order to maintain the warranty!
@locomike102 - Mechanics, (now referred to as Automotive Technicians), replace parts on cars. They are not trained in oils or oil filtration. Using quality oils and filters, oil analysis test results demonstrate that longer oil drain intervals are safe and attainable. With cheap oil and filters, as with anything, we get what pay for. Oil is the lifeblood of an engine and with vehicles now being so expensive to replace, it just doesn't make financial sense to go with cheap products to, "maintain", them and extend their life. Quality pays.
I've used Mobil 1 5w-30 fully synthetic oil and Mobil 1 filters for over 2 decades and my Blackstone reports come back showing no problems. I was doing 7,500 miles between oil/filter changes but recently dropped back to 5,000 miles as the car gets old
If the oil analysis reports reported no problems with a 7,500 mile oil drain interval, why reduce that interval to 5,000 miles? Why change the oil if it's still in good shape?
@@HiTechOilCoHe did it right because of the age and multiple oil change cycles in past, the engine slowly gets dirtier with age, especially having had 7,500 mile intervals that should have been done in the first place. The sludge gets build up in tiny areas under the piston rings making those stuck and not dynamic any more. Also sludge that is a byproduct of burned oil mixed with fuel get stuck in other tiny paths that creates problems for the motor. Synthetic oil should not be used more 5,000 miles if you plan on keeping the car for long. Now in order to wash out that sludge because of those long intervals you need to do several oil changes with intervals like 1,000 miles so that detergents in the fresh oil can clean it a little bit or even use a engine flush. The older the car, the shorter the intervals should be and it will easily run for 300K miles. Going for the shorter intervals for the right choice. Do 3k miles intervals instead of 5k
Most filters have a bypass valve at the opposite end of the filter as where the oil goes in. Some filters have the bypass valve at the beginning end, meaning close to where the oil goes in. I prefer this way since having it at the opposite end means that the oil actually goes past all of the filtration material (past, not through, I get the bypass is when the oil can't go through the material) before it bypasses into the engine. This increases the chances of the unfiltered oil basically picking up some of the previously filtered contaminants before it is bypassed into the engine. While having the bypass valve on the end where the oil enters, it basically bypasses directly and doesn't have that opportunity to pick up random contaminants. For some reason, most filters have it the first way, while some filters have it the second way. Which ones are which out of these? Looking at some videos of filters cut open, the Mobil 1 looks like it might have it the way I believe is better, but I'm not sure...
Ford Motorcraft filters have the bypass at the top (screw end) where the oil goes in. Its why I use them, especially in winter up in Canada. Oil pressure would get pretty high with the other type of filter in winter trying to force thick frozen oil thru the length of the frozen filter body (and along the dirty pleats as you noted) to get to the bypass at the bottom of the can. Whereas with the bypass at the top of the filter the oil will bypass much more easily, cleanly and quickly as the engine block warms up.
@@wanos1752 Yah, that's why I use Motorcraft as well, they're pretty cheap, designed for my Ford so I know they should work as intended, and they have the bypass system I think is better... But wondering if any of these more "premium" ones might also have the same system.
Check out the Purolator Boss! About the same price as the Wix Xp and really strong canister! Way awesome set up that you shouldn’t over look we pair it with Pennzoil’s Ultra Platinum and I believe it’s the best bang for your buck! Love AMSOIL but that stuff is pricey!
TyceHenderson, I agree! During the warmer weather months, I’ll play around with different oil and filter combos. But as I DIY my oil changes, come wintertime I also use the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full-synthetic along with the Purolator Boss filter in my ‘17 Honda Civic. During that time I may have to run that oil/filter combo for 4 months or close to 10K miles. I feel more confident using quality products like this in this instance.
We understand what u saying about all these oil filters but how about ROYAL PURPLE? what's the manufacturing n quality of the filter itself? How many microns are on this product? Thanks for the video is very informative when it comes to the quality of this oil filter. Have a nice n blessed day.
Yup... plenty of test here on YT and Frams best always comes out on top. Fram Ultra and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum... the only way to go. (Btw... anyone who says "screw Fram watches cnn and believes the Earth is flat)
@@samuelw.3992 After Amsoil oil filters ($$$): NAPA Platinum, Wix XP and Purolator Boss ALL share the same synthetic filter media. NAPA Gold has a paper media and is runner up to these three. All are Top-notch and will serve you well.
KN used to advertise 22 micron on their performance gold filters. I switched from them to Amsoil filters years ago. I pay $14 for the Amsoil filter for my vehicle.
I use the orange FRAM filters sometimes because I keep my oil changes between 3000 - 5000 miles, and use royal purple oil. I mostly use Mobil1 oil filters though.
Thanks. The brands I normally consider for my GM 5.3L are AC Delco, Fram TG, Fram US, and Mobil 1. I consider these because AC Delco is dealer supplied, and a good baseline. The rest are readily available at my preferred store, and are not the cheapest / lowest quality offerings. My biggest takeaway here is that the build quality of the Fram TG is poor for an upgraded (over the Fram XG) product. I bought it once before, when the Fram US was out of stock, but I'll avoid them in the future I think, and will likely stick with Fram US or Mobil 1. The grip on the Fram does make changing it a little easier, which is a nice bonus.
I use Amsoil wherever possible. Had to go to a Wix XP because Amsoil dropped their oil and filter recommendation for the Ram 2500 6.4 Hemi. So it's the Wix 57060 XP and Penz Ultra Premium 0w-40.
What about showing the actual oil going in & through the filter, showing flow rate & particles of separation of contaminates with dirty oil. Just showing the physical parts of the oil filter inside is a little premature to say which one is better.
Over fifty five years changing oil and filters and have never heard of an oil filter ruining a engine except for someone putting a new filter on and not checking that the old filter gasket came off with the old filter. Always make sure the gasket comes off with the old filter or you are putting a new filter on over the old gasket. Not good. Under pressure your oil will be blasting out if you double up the gasket. Very bad.
One of the most important factors is the pressure in which the bypass activated inside the filter. Time that the bypass is activated is time that the oil isn’t being filtered at all so you want that to be as high as possible while still maintaining filtering efficiency
Not sure how you can rate the wix xp so high. If you dig enough, you can find the filtering efficiency, and it’s not good. With a GDI engine I would never go with long a long OCI, so the rated filter life means very little to me, I change oil at 5k miles. Filtering efficiency should be the number one priority, so the Fram US is what I use (gasp!!! Thought I would never use Fram oil filters). Change my mind.
Interesting comparison and thanks for cutting-out all the "cutting-out"! The MicroGuard Select is a very interesting "newer" filter on the market. (I thought it was made in Vietnam, not USA. No?) I'm tempted to try it. Thanks!
I ran my 2005 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 for 15 years and 188,000 miles. I didnmy own oil changes with full synthetic every 3k and never used anything but those orange Fram filters. Nice to know now they were total crap lol.
Caution with any oil filter that has shrink wrap. Never take your finger and poke a hole in the threaded hole, as engine failure has occurred. The shrink wrap can end up in the center, where the oil comes out, this is unfiltered at this point, and tiny fragments of shrink wrap have plugged oil passage holes that supply oil to critical areas of the engine. A man with a turbo diesel engine was denied warranty when a cylinder failed due to this issue.
No matter how many miles the guarantee, I wouldn’t trust and do the changes when dashboard shows up for that, which is around 7k. My 99 Civic has 520k miles and never went for the most expensive filters or the cheapest ones either. Still running good
I use stp 10w30 high mileage junk and their filter on my XJ. It’s like 30$ to do a oil change for me and i change ur every 3k miles. 320k on the dash and when i pulled a main cap last month to do the rear main seal the bearing looked goes and the pan had no sludge or varnish
Does anyone else wonder if the have extended the intervals on these filters by opening up the media so the filter catches less contaminant and fills up more slowly?
Well since K&N, mobil 1, Super tech, ACdelco, are all made by Champion labs. Wix made by Wix owned by Mann&hummel. Fram is Fram and Micro Guard made in Vietnam. Amsoil made by Hastings which makes Baldwin. So what is is your point??
Based on your chart and physical inspection, the Microgard would be my choice, especially for $9.99. It has the most filter area and appears to be well constructed. Thanks. PS, the Microgard is made in Vietnam, according to the box.
There is a trade-off between between flow-rate, particulate filtering, and the impeding of flow-rate based upon the amount/type of filter media. The potential of oil-starving an engine due to an impeded flow-rate and the amount/type of media may (possibly) remove the MicroGuard as a contender--when compared to, for example, the Fram Ultra Synthetic. The Fram Ultra Synthetic appears to strike a better balance between the above variables, and per these variables would be my first choice. Unless the oil filter is used in off-road challenges and placed in a highly vulnerable area where it could be damaged by debris or direct hits (a design fault of the vehicle manufacturer), then the 0.015" case thickness is of little concern.
You should do a test with them so every oil change you change the kind of filter to a different one you show in this video. Starting from cheapest to most expensive and have the oil tested to see how well they did.
I use almost only purolator boss now. I’ve used most of these, the fram ultra at Walmart can’t beat the price but it seemed like my truck was dry starting with it. I get the boss on sale for around 11-12 bucks and I change the oil 2-3 times using the same filter.
How about the filters that don't come in a can? My Corolla, I just unscrew the can/container and pop out the pleated filter media and replace it. which of those types of filters are best?
As someone who uses the fram tg on my vehicles, I generally use the mileage claims with a grain of salt. That said, I change my engine oil every ~5k miles and I think the tg is great filter despite it's cheap quality build. I'd definitely consider the microgard (budget friendly wix @ O'Reilly's?) as an option should I break away from my bias. Everything else, respectively is meh or too damn pricey for a 5k mile oil change, just my $0.02. :)
Same. I have three cars so I change the oil in them twice a year. So when I do change the oil on each car the oil and filter only has about 3 to 4 thousand miles. I think Fram TG is a middle of the road filter. People hate on the cardboard end caps but aslong as you change the filter every 5,000 miles or less I don't think they will fail. 10,000 mile filters blows my mind. Who changes there oil every 10,000 miles. Each their own
@@Kingswood7189 Yep, I 100% agree. For an extra $8 per year (2 oil changes per year), jump up to the Fram Ultra Synthetic if you're happy with the Fram line of filters. Much better construction and better filtration (99% at 20 microns) than the Fram Extra Guard. To each their own, but with the cost of ALL engine parts going up dramatically with this inflation we're going through (not to mention the low supply of some parts), it's worth a few extra dollars per year to up my protection level some. The same goes for my oil. Amazon and Walmart sells 5 quart jugs of the top of the line full synthetic oils (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Castrol Edge, etc.) for $30 ($6 per quart) which is only $1 per quart more than the mediocre oil.
@@pablochavez9087 both of my vehicles have 10k mile oil change intervals as standard from the factory. oil now days is a lot better then 30 years ago. engines are too so 10k is becoming much more normal
I can see someone changing there oil every 10,000 miles if they are running a top of the line oil and oil filter. However, I wouldn't do it personally. I would push it to 6,000. These new cars with turbos put a beating on the oil. My opinion. Everyome can do as they please
I would like to know how all these oil filter experts can tell you which filter works the best without testing them through a flow meter and counting particles and size. Or even tearing an engine down to see how much wear. Did you test the glue to see how it reacts with the oil additives? Is the silicone the same in every filter? How clean was the filter media when they were put together and are all of them the same?
Super Tech for my car was under $4. Unfortunately I can't always find my size, 9668, in that brand so I used to have to settle for Fram. I got a bad Fram filter last year, so i won't be making that mistake again. Lately when I can Super Tech 9668, I buy 3 or 4 at a time.
Who leaves an oil filter on an engine for 20k miles? I use oem filters due to consistency in quality and price. My GM vehicles get ac/ delco filters. My subaru gets a black subaru filter. Never had an issue. Ive been a tech for 40 years seen plenty of junk filters. 3k oil change intervals and use high quality full synthetic oil. My GM rig gets GM spec DEXOS 1 labeled oil. Sold my GM pickup at 280k miles still running strong no oil consumption.
This guy deserves a ribbon for badazzery or an extra cookie or beer or something...hell idk. But no seriously, thanks man!!!!! Best dang review I've seen in a LONG TIME. PERIOD. 👉👍👈
Saw Engine Masters test several oil filters - K&N came out on top - that's what i've been using for several years now even before watching the program. Air and Oil on my truck, van and motorcycle.
My dad was an Industrikal Engineer and manufactured heavy oil field equipment for 30yrs. He didnt put much stock into changing oil; just keep it full. But…he usually traded vehicles by 70,000 miles too! LoL
I've bought used cars with sludge from lack of oil changes, one was a 79' Mustang with a 302, sludge clogged the rubber hose from the carb to the oil fillter cap, caused remain seal to blow. Stupid mechanic I took it too said my engine was shot, I had the long block replaced, it happened again, then he found the problem. I watch for sludge now, I guess your dad wasn't a good engineer...
The ones with the plastic cage are no for me. From the K&N and upwards, the metal cores looks very restrictive, compared the the bigger holes in the cheaper filters. Wont that increase pressure and therefore promotes the bypass valve to open and unfiltered oil to the engine? To me, it looks like the best compromise is the Fram Ultra, bigger holes in the metal core and dual filter media.
Only if you are allowing it to stay on the car so long the filter medium get clogged. Filters are cheap (so is oil) - change often. Especially if you have a car with variable timing that relies on the oil pressure for timing chain tension and adjustment.
None of this information has any relevance without actually lab testing the filters.
If you need to see that fram filters are cardboard trash, theirs no hope for a Chump!
I agree. No test = A waste of my time. And so what if the gasket pulls off, as long as it doesn’t leak, that’s not a problem.
@Willy Wonka I see your grammar is on par with your knowledge of filters.
Fact of the matter is, anyone can visually look at these and spew assumptions.
Fram has a sketchy drain back valve cu they can get a possible bad seal after so much buildup caught. Also fram does filter pretty good but also with that it takes a lotore pressure to move the oil and so the oil doesn't flow as smooth and fast which can cause a lack of oil to certain parts in the motor if running the motor at high performance. Mobile 1 extended performance one of the best
Would love to see you compare OEM filters as well. Toyota, Honda, etc compared to these non-OEM options.
Who do you think makes OEM Filters? Mann Hummel, Bosch, Purolator, and FRAM as well as wix, just different paint and sticker
@@TheMrLebaron honda oil filter is made by Indonesian manufacturer - nichirindo. at least in my country
@@lordjaashin WIth honda it depends where you are, in North America honda Filters are made by Purolator
@@TheMrLebaron Honda filters are cheaper then a Purolator off the self
@@waterloo123100 Cheap in terms of price or quality?
I switched to those Microguard filters and haven't had a single issue. I did some research and from my findings, the Microguard is made by WIX. If you notice, the part numbers between the two actually match, just the Microguard has other identification numbers along with it. But take two filters that match, and the part numbers will correspond to each other. Also another cheap alternative to WIX is NAPA filters, also made by WIX.
Wix is also now owned by MANN+HUMMEL one of the largest filtration companies in the world. Still have the local plants in NC but they have MANN+HUMMEL on the signage now.
Frankly, for a 5,000 mile interval you won’t go wrong with any of them, except for the $28 Amsoil filter.
wix cut ties with napa in 2021 napa is now with a cheaper supplier and charging more for lower quality
@@Nellis202 amsoil oil and filter almost ruined a new chevy engine, i don't have proof other than my word, i switched back to mobile 1 and never looked back.
Microguard are not made by Wix.
When I was trained at a retail store to remove every Fram filter from the box to ensure that it was the correct filter, I would notice that most had metal filings inside the center from cutting the threads. I learned to check every Fram filter. Surprisingly, when I would shew this to the customer, I never had anyone who rejected to buy one. Never understood why anyone would buy a $75,000 truck and stick the cheapest oil and filter in it.
because truck drivers aren`t the sharpest tool in the kit
I have been using AMSOIL lubricants for over 40 years and their filters for around 15-20 years. Never had a problem and I used to go the full 25K between changes. I am now old and no-longer drive nearly as much, so I change the filters once a year, which is about 8-10,000 miles! I have 270,000 miles on my 2005 F-150 and it runs great. I do have to add about 1 quart per every 5,000 miles of driving, which is ok, in my opinion.
Been ok using fram filters also
Dont make their filters so there
If your topping of your truck every 8-10k miles. Swap out your PCV valve and your motor wont eat oil.
@@Frank_Diaz. - yeah, a lot has taken place in the year since I first posted. I did get a new PCV valve and it did help out some. Unfortunately, I had a head gasket blow 2,000 miles from home and the engine blew almost immediately at 283,465 miles. It was an expensive vacation trip; not oil related, etc.
Good comparison. But, to me the most important thing for a filter to do is......filter. I think it's interesting that you gave high marks to K&N and WIX even though there is no filtration efficiency listed on your chart for either. My choice based upon filtration efficiency (99%, 20 micron) and price ($10.97) is the FRAM Ultra Synthetic.
That's what I've been using on my vehicles as well.
My K&N said 99% on its box
Can't remember the micron
It was something like 25
Very good video. I have been changing oil in cars for over 40 years now and I have used a wide variety of filters over this period of time. What I have learned is the consistency coupled with using the correct oil for your vehicle is as or more important than the manufacturer of the oil or filter. Give me a Fram filter and store brand oil in the correct weight and type with changes every 6 months or 5k and the average person will not have an issue during the life of the vehicle.
How does the oil degrade in 6 months if the vehicle for instance is only driven 20 miles a week..?
@@mountaintruth1deeds533 Short trip driving is as or more impactful to the oil than running it past it's intended life. The reason is the oil becomes contaminated with moisture and other contaminates of combustion that are never burned off because the engine does not stay at operating temperature long enough to burn them off. Changing the oil and filter on a regular basis ensures these contaminants are removed from the engine, especially the water or moisture that can accumulate.
I stopped changing oil in 1963 with a Frantz oil cleaner and Delo 30 weight oil. All I have to clean oil these days is the Australian Jackmaster Classic Motor Guards and the Gulf Coast junior. I use Super Tech from Walmart. The Wix on the Pontiac has 63.000 miles on it. Not much in a modern engine large enough to be removed by a full flow filter.The Ford diesel tractor has a flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use a 4 1/2 inch roll of Scott 1000 toilet paper. It has a Fram full flow filter to get the big stuff. Not the cheapest Fram.
Absolutely agree, not changing the most expensive oil and filter over 15-20 k miles is definitely risky in my opinion. Good middle of the road products will serve you better than pushing things through. Change it regularly at 3-5 k and you are going to be fine
@@mountaintruth1deeds533 That's an easy one. If you only drive the vehicle 20 miles a week the oil never gets up to temperature to boil off he water which is a byproduct of combustion. The water then combines with the sulfur in the oil and forms sulfuric acid. One of the partners in the CPA firm where I did my internship knew an engineer at Ford that was given a car that he could only driver the 5 miles back and forth to work every day. At the end of 12,000 miles the engine was junk. Take it for what it's worth. Now if the car just sits for 6 months and is not driven at all it won't affect the oil much but that leads to other issues. The best thing you can do is drive the vehicle at least 50 miles at 50 or more miles per hour at least once a week to boil the water out of the oil.
I enjoy watching the tear down of oil filters as a DIY'er for 40 years with multiple vehicles. I've used most of these filters and the bottom line is if you change your filter every 5-6 K miles like I do with a good synthetic oil you'll be totally fine. The length of miles doesn't apply to me. I use whatever is on sale. Never had an oil related problem.
So acouple of years ago after watching acouple of these videos. I used 2 fram oil filters in a row then 2 mobil 1 in a row on the same truck. Ran them the same distance using the same oil. And sent samples in the a oil testing lab. They daid they couldn't see any difference between the filters.
The real test of a filter is not how it looks, what matters is how well it removes contaminants
97 silverado with 200,000 miles here. Have run Fram throughout its life. Change oil and filter every 3 to 5000 miles.
Other filters have better designs and build quality. The question of Fram filter haters like me is, why are they still being sold at the same price as a well made oil filter. Could these people be the same as those who voter for lost causes and fall for online con-games?.
So, knowing that you are using an bad filter why will you continue? You can see just like the rest of us, , its junk, , but you will still use it? There are better choices, do yourself a favor and spend a couple dollars more.
Interesting comparison, I do enjoy seeing the filters all cut up to see what they are actually made of. What I am interested in is the number for the By-Pass Valve Setting PSI. Wix lists this number on their site but not many others do. I would be interested to know more about this as Subaru’s have higher PSI rating of 23PSI and up.
That's why I stick with OEM Subaru filters on my cars.
FWIW....recently received Blackstone UOA for my 2018 Subaru 3.6R at 75,000 miles. I change oil every 6,000 per mfg spec. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. Only difference for this interval was use of Purolator Boss filter instead of previously used OEM Tokyo Roki. (Purolator Boss is a premium filter with a reputation for higher-quality filtration.) Tokyo Roki has 23psi bypass. Purolator Boss has mid-teens psi bypass as do almost all others. The UOA numbers for "wear metals" and "insolubles" using the Purolator Boss were exactly the same as with previous OEM filter....but the Purolator Boss costs twice as much. My take-away from the experiment is that in my environment and with my driving style there is zero benefit to premium oil filter compared with OEM. Apparently the bypass spec difference between OEM and after-market filters is as much a non-issue as the purported quality-difference of the filter itself...at least for me. I am a "normal" conservative driver. Perhaps racers or drivers who's pattern involves constant. or frequent high-revs would have shown different results.
Great video. I'm glad my filters of choice (Wix and Amsoil) came out on top. The price of an oil filter is WAY cheaper than a spun rod bearing or a flattened camshaft. Keep up the great work.
You're the the kinda guy that falls for anything. Stop it with that nonsense! Change your oil at 5000 miles. There's no oil or oil filter that eliminates combustion byproducts within the oil. The byproduct of combustion turns the oil into a acidic mess that will damage valve stem seals, any o-rings and of course all of the gaskets throughout the engine. So sure you can get the most expensive oil and filter... Just remember to change that all out at 5000 miles.
@@davidwalker7383 So.whats the point of a 10k or 25k oil filter?
@@jonmo2694 excellent
@@davidwalker7383 excellent point we made
@@davidwalker7383 So a fram $6 10k is going to be more than good changed @5k and I don't see much benefit in buying a $10+ filter.I will buy the $8-9 fram ultra synthetic but I will change it @5k still
Been using the supertech 10k filter on my 2015 Accord v6 coupe for almost 9 years with zero issues. I use top quality full synthetic motor oil and change it every 5-6k without deviation. Consistency is more important than high price filters. Im not saying go el cheapo but tge supertech is very inexpensive and has done a fantastic job for me. I also use it on my daughter's 21' Corolla with zero issues. Great bang for your buck! Dont see a need to upgrade when im super consistent and i use top quality synthetic oil. Just ny thoughts.
Nice to see build quality. Now I want to see testing manufacture claims. Run them with known particulate size suspended in oil for the length of time and then lab test that oil. That would be sweet. My manual 4x4 94 ranger 4.0 w/250K has only used Fram or less and still doesn't burn oil. Cheers!
Thank you for this video. As an Amsoil Dealer I'll share this with my customers and prospects.
That the $6.00 super tech filter makes more sense than amsoil ?
I’ve always adapted Cat filters for my Duramax. Was Cat tech for 30+ years and have seen comparisons with all. Plus I get an employee discount which helps
I have two classic Corvettes that are driven a few thousand miles a year. I like the sound of AC Delco's two year time interval since I will never come close to the mileage limit.
but you'd still want to change it like 1x/year at least yeah?
Great video. Your research caused me to change from SuperTech to MicroGard.
Excellent work! Sure wish you'd done a Baldwin; been using them for years. Thanks for your good work!
Where do you buy your Baldwin oil filters from, and have you run into any of them that were made in Morocco (instead of USA) in the past few years?
Thanks for the comparison. Assuming nobody has ever collected on a 'mileage warranty' I'm going to continue with 3500 mile oil and filter changes.
Excellent video. Short, to the point, and informative.
I work at O’Reilly’s and just want to point out MicroGuard whether that’s the regular or microguard select (like in this video) are made by Wix and are equal to the regular Wix filter. Same thing with the cabin and motor air filters.
The Select is made by one of Premium Guards contractors out of Vietnam.. Go check some of your Select model filters and look at where it's made.. and then check the support or technical phone number on the back of the box.
Same parent company, but other than that the filters are completely different. The selects are good filters but not the exact same as the wix
As well as the super tech from Walmart. Its manufacturers are Wix and Champion. Super Tech Filter and Super Tech Oil and change every 3-5000 miles (like anyone should no matter what oil and filter they use) and your vehicles engine will never break down for anything related to your choices of oil and filter.
I’ve been using microgard. They seem like good filters. I couldn’t trust a high mileage rating filter. I change ever 6k with full synthetic and replace the filter every time even though my car says I only have to every other change. Why not, it’s cheap insurance.
Been using mobil 1 filters for 5 or 6 years now and never had an issue. The efficiency of the Mobil 1 filter is incredible and that’s why I chose it also the flow rate is amazing to. You should actually test the filters instead of just opening them up and taking about them.
I'm an Amsoil user, glad to see it's comparison to all these others. I buy direct, thank goodness, so I avoid that rediculous retail price.
Good thing, or else they’d be $50
@@kellismith4329 People, their money and their vehicles is a funny combination. I worked at a Napa store for two years. Guys with $80 000 pickups buying $25 rotors & pads and truck stop oil. Then come back a week later and buy $100 rotors and $20 oil for their ATV.
No joking, this happened daily.
Another customer was a millionaire lobster fisherman. He used Amsoil in his Harley, Sam's Club oil in his lobster boat and Escalade.
@@TheBeatenPaths yes I believe it I worked at oriellys and these guys would come in nice vehicles wanting the cheapest oil and filter possible while the guys with clunkers would buy royal purple with k&n filters? 🤷♂️
@@drew5992 Daily occurrence!!
@@drew5992 I feel called out with the clunkers line 😆
Thank you for this video, it has made servicing my car engine so much easier.
I have a Suzuki SX4, the filter is located up there, some ware, behind a beam and on top of the exhaust sensor.
Up to now, I have been terrified with busting the sensor when trying to get an old filter to let go.
I've heard of K&N but not familiar with them, just by chance our local parts shop has started to stock K&N.
I found suitable filter and simply spun it up with a one inch socket. Anticipate it should come out just as easily.
Good morning Dan, excellent video. One of the best on oil filters. I would like you to test the regular WIX and maybe the Microgard regular. I have used the Microgard and I was satisifed with it and now I'm using the WIX. Keep the videos coming my friend.
FYI: The Microgard Select units are made by Wix's parent company and still use the old Wix design.
@@chrisbehan6451 Pretty much one and the same. Thanks.
The purpose of the filter is to maintain cleanliness to prevent wear so the beta ratio micron rating and dirt holding Capacity should be the attribute with the highest scaling factor used in the comparison
i agree but it's way i change my oil at 4,000-4500 miles at lest the m1 stops filtering at that point...
@@punker4Real don’t waste ur money changing oil that often
Always been a fan of K&N for my motorcycle. Having that safetywire slotted nut on the top is so simple and convenient.
You know they have socket attachments for all oil filter types? You're paying for less efficiency and a nut on top.
Most important thing about the gadgets for me, is that they are thick and pretty pliable . I had a K&N that was not and resulted in oil leaks that were almost impossible to notice as it only leaked when it got hot.
I have been using FRAM for years, and never had any issues with them. But because of the low price, I can switch out the filter for a new one, keep it cleaner without always tossing out otherwise good oil for the sake of a 5000 mile oil change. Just change the filter every 3.5K miles and you can stretch your oil to 7 or 8K miles. Just replace the oil into the filter with new oil to replace what the old one took out. However, if you are experiencing unusual dirty oil sooner, then you have a mechanical problem even the best oil filters can't fix.
I rarely, if ever, see Royal Purple filters in any oil filter comparisons, and you are no exception. It's been my choice for years with its synthetic filter materials and superb overall quality of components
ROGER THAT
AMSOIL all the way
Very restrictive oil flow though...
And poor manufacturing quality as well
do you still use RP filters? then you need to think again, just watch a video that RP is bs.
Results are impressive. Your report is well done. I have a Subaru flat4 so a superior oil filter is critical. Thanks
I also have a 2017 Subaru Outback boxer 4. I’ve always used the blue OEM Subaru filter until I recently learned it is made by Fram and has the cheap paper end caps! I’m now planning to order the black Subaru filter by Tokyo Rokki (made in Japan) for all future oil changes.
I removed the full flow filter on my 84 Subaru when it was new. Put a Frantz oil cleaner on it and Mobil 1. Didnt drain the oil for 250.000 miles. Was bragging about it on RUclips. A Caterpillar lab manager sent me a sample kit. He said it looks good for 250.000 miles but recommended a filter change every 6000 miles and a new quart of oil instead of every 12.000 miles. I took his advise. The 93 Legacy has 240.000 on it now..Probably an even better car than the 84. It uses Motor Guards on the engine and transmition. Went to synthetic Walmart oil at about 225.000 miles. Has a bad senser somewhere. Getting hard to start when cold. Cooling fans wont turn off..Not a Subaru mechanic. Put a fuel injector in the intake manifold with a push button switch to get me thru the winter.heater dont work on the Pontiac AC dont work on the Subaru.
@@mark8684 I have the exact same Subie as you and also stopped with the dealer provided "Fram" filters. I just switched to the WIX XP and continue to do my oil changes per the factory manual. No issues ever (and I also use the Fumoto valve like thousands of other Subie owners).
At Our Shop We Use Walmarts 20,000 Blue Super Tech Filters On Our Basic Oil Change...We Use Mobil 1 On Our Premiun Synthetic Oil Changes...👍
Hi ,I go to Wal-Mart for oil change ,I never asked what they use ,are all Wal-Mart the same?
Thanks. Interestingly , myPoint S Shop all VALVOLINEs now….
@@ronaldhaugen5967well, you can check & ask.. I used Wal Mart for some fivish years, no problems fir. Simple stuff.
Would recommend Puralator Pure filters as well.
Looking at the cut filters, especially the Microguard (3:17), with so many pleats and under oil pressure it appears like the folds would touch together basically negating that filter area, unless there is some backing to hold the folds apart to allow oil to pass through into some open area to get to the center. So more pleats may give less useable area.
NAPA Gold and Platinum filters are made by WIX. The Platinum is the same as the WIX XP. They are cheaper than WIX and more often go on sale. NAPA filters also have WIX address on the side of the box.
Napa filter's bend like crazy though.
NAPA filters are no longer made by WIX. NAPA claimed WIX "couldn't handle the demand," and now sources from multiple other manufacturers overseas, primarily Premium Guard. There was a whole thing with Royalty Auto Service after they pulled all of their NAPA filters after a WIX rep told them that WIX wasn't making them. NAPA flew four execs to his shop to do damage control.
Not any longer, somebody else makes them now
@mtnbikerva1
Yeah... that was an old post. They are made in China or Vietnam now.
Great video--I would like to comment that if you are doing 10k mile oil changes, you are probably doing more damage to your engine than if you ran the cheapest filter possible and changed oil/filter at 5k. As any mechanic what they think of long oil change intervals--they all change their oil around 5k.
As always, follow the manufacture oil change interval as shown in the owner’s manual. For “severe” usage, which can be towing, short distance drives, dusty driving conditions, lots of idling, very cold weather, or driving where road salt is used, the interval can be 3,000 miles! Since I live in Michigan, I have to change the oil every 3,000 miles (regardless of whether synthetic or conventional oil) in order to maintain the warranty!
@locomike102 - Mechanics, (now referred to as Automotive Technicians), replace parts on cars. They are not trained in oils or oil filtration. Using quality oils and filters, oil analysis test results demonstrate that longer oil drain intervals are safe and attainable. With cheap oil and filters, as with anything, we get what pay for. Oil is the lifeblood of an engine and with vehicles now being so expensive to replace, it just doesn't make financial sense to go with cheap products to, "maintain", them and extend their life. Quality pays.
Why would fram be the worst? Just by looks, All works fine as long you change every 3000 to 5000mi. The key is testing the filtration of contaminates.
Been using frams since 73, never had one problem. Corvettes, Cadillacs, Trans am and plenty of pick ups.
Fram Ultra's filtration is king of them all and for the price it's easily the best choice.
I've used Mobil 1 5w-30 fully synthetic oil and Mobil 1 filters for over 2 decades and my Blackstone reports come back showing no problems. I was doing 7,500 miles between oil/filter changes but recently dropped back to 5,000 miles as the car gets old
If the oil analysis reports reported no problems with a 7,500 mile oil drain interval, why reduce that interval to 5,000 miles? Why change the oil if it's still in good shape?
@HiTechOilCo Car is getting older, I want to be sure it stays in good shape
@@HiTechOilCoHe did it right because of the age and multiple oil change cycles in past, the engine slowly gets dirtier with age, especially having had 7,500 mile intervals that should have been done in the first place. The sludge gets build up in tiny areas under the piston rings making those stuck and not dynamic any more. Also sludge that is a byproduct of burned oil mixed with fuel get stuck in other tiny paths that creates problems for the motor. Synthetic oil should not be used more 5,000 miles if you plan on keeping the car for long. Now in order to wash out that sludge because of those long intervals you need to do several oil changes with intervals like 1,000 miles so that detergents in the fresh oil can clean it a little bit or even use a engine flush. The older the car, the shorter the intervals should be and it will easily run for 300K miles. Going for the shorter intervals for the right choice. Do 3k miles intervals instead of 5k
Most filters have a bypass valve at the opposite end of the filter as where the oil goes in. Some filters have the bypass valve at the beginning end, meaning close to where the oil goes in. I prefer this way since having it at the opposite end means that the oil actually goes past all of the filtration material (past, not through, I get the bypass is when the oil can't go through the material) before it bypasses into the engine. This increases the chances of the unfiltered oil basically picking up some of the previously filtered contaminants before it is bypassed into the engine. While having the bypass valve on the end where the oil enters, it basically bypasses directly and doesn't have that opportunity to pick up random contaminants. For some reason, most filters have it the first way, while some filters have it the second way. Which ones are which out of these? Looking at some videos of filters cut open, the Mobil 1 looks like it might have it the way I believe is better, but I'm not sure...
Ford Motorcraft filters have the bypass at the top (screw end) where the oil goes in. Its why I use them, especially in winter up in Canada. Oil pressure would get pretty high with the other type of filter in winter trying to force thick frozen oil thru the length of the frozen filter body (and along the dirty pleats as you noted) to get to the bypass at the bottom of the can. Whereas with the bypass at the top of the filter the oil will bypass much more easily, cleanly and quickly as the engine block warms up.
@@wanos1752 Yah, that's why I use Motorcraft as well, they're pretty cheap, designed for my Ford so I know they should work as intended, and they have the bypass system I think is better... But wondering if any of these more "premium" ones might also have the same system.
Check out the Purolator Boss! About the same price as the Wix Xp and really strong canister! Way awesome set up that you shouldn’t over look we pair it with Pennzoil’s Ultra Platinum and I believe it’s the best bang for your buck! Love AMSOIL but that stuff is pricey!
TyceHenderson, I agree! During the warmer weather months, I’ll play around with different oil and filter combos. But as I DIY my oil changes, come wintertime I also use the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full-synthetic along with the Purolator Boss filter in my ‘17 Honda Civic. During that time I may have to run that oil/filter combo for 4 months or close to 10K miles. I feel more confident using quality products like this in this instance.
We understand what u saying about all these oil filters but how about ROYAL PURPLE? what's the manufacturing n quality of the filter itself? How many microns are on this product? Thanks for the video is very informative when it comes to the quality of this oil filter. Have a nice n blessed day.
Just today I bought filter (STP XL) based off of your recommendations and previous videos. So your efforts are dully noted!
Fram ultra synthetic and mobil 1 oil are my go to, best bang per buck imo
Screw Fram!
Yup... plenty of test here on YT and Frams best always comes out on top.
Fram Ultra and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum... the only way to go.
(Btw... anyone who says "screw Fram watches cnn and believes the Earth is flat)
@@samuelw.3992 The Ultra Synthetic is well made. The other Frams are garbage.
@@steven4894 I respect that answer. Thank you:
@@samuelw.3992 After Amsoil oil filters ($$$):
NAPA Platinum, Wix XP and Purolator Boss ALL share the same synthetic filter media. NAPA Gold has a paper media and is runner up to these three.
All are Top-notch and will serve you well.
KN used to advertise 22 micron on their performance gold filters. I switched from them to Amsoil filters years ago. I pay $14 for the Amsoil filter for my vehicle.
I use the orange FRAM filters sometimes because I keep my oil changes between 3000 - 5000 miles, and use royal purple oil. I mostly use Mobil1 oil filters though.
I wonder how a Bosch filter would do. I have used those before.
Thanks for posting this video.
Thanks. The brands I normally consider for my GM 5.3L are AC Delco, Fram TG, Fram US, and Mobil 1. I consider these because AC Delco is dealer supplied, and a good baseline. The rest are readily available at my preferred store, and are not the cheapest / lowest quality offerings. My biggest takeaway here is that the build quality of the Fram TG is poor for an upgraded (over the Fram XG) product. I bought it once before, when the Fram US was out of stock, but I'll avoid them in the future I think, and will likely stick with Fram US or Mobil 1. The grip on the Fram does make changing it a little easier, which is a nice bonus.
Ac Delco and super tech filters seem to be the same which I thought were funny
Just dip your filters in rhinoliner. Basically the same thing fram does
Bummer the best filter isn’t even on the table. The Purolator filters are the best!
I use Amsoil wherever possible. Had to go to a Wix XP because Amsoil dropped their oil and filter recommendation for the Ram 2500 6.4 Hemi. So it's the Wix 57060 XP and Penz Ultra Premium 0w-40.
Lol😂
@enriqueaguilar8788 yes LOL!
I wish you'd include a Baldwin oil filter in your test/comparison.
How would you rate the PurolatorBoss vs the Amsoil and Wix XP?
What about showing the actual oil going in & through the filter, showing flow rate & particles of separation of contaminates with dirty oil. Just showing the physical parts of the oil filter inside is a little premature to say which one is better.
I just got the same AMSOIL filter delivered last week for $17.60.
How often do you change that 25k filter??
I usually run Mobil 1 or Wix XP, but I am going to be trying the Microgard Select on my next oil change this weekend
Walmart sells OEM filters, I wonder how they compare to the higher end filters
Over fifty five years changing oil and filters and have never heard of an oil filter ruining a engine except for someone putting a new filter on and not checking that the old filter gasket came off with the old filter. Always make sure the gasket comes off with the old filter or you are putting a new filter on over the old gasket. Not good. Under pressure your oil will be blasting out if you double up the gasket. Very bad.
One of the most important factors is the pressure in which the bypass activated inside the filter. Time that the bypass is activated is time that the oil isn’t being filtered at all so you want that to be as high as possible while still maintaining filtering efficiency
Not sure how you can rate the wix xp so high. If you dig enough, you can find the filtering efficiency, and it’s not good. With a GDI engine I would never go with long a long OCI, so the rated filter life means very little to me, I change oil at 5k miles. Filtering efficiency should be the number one priority, so the Fram US is what I use (gasp!!! Thought I would never use Fram oil filters). Change my mind.
😊
I've been using Motorcraft and/or Napa gold for many years now. Purolator makes the Motorcraft and Wix makes the Napa gold I believe
My Napa gold is made in Vietnam.
@@southerncross3638 probably. Better than China I guess
Interesting comparison and thanks for cutting-out all the "cutting-out"! The MicroGuard Select is a very interesting "newer" filter on the market. (I thought it was made in Vietnam, not USA. No?) I'm tempted to try it. Thanks!
Mostly made in the USA by a German company.
I ran my 2005 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 for 15 years and 188,000 miles. I didnmy own oil changes with full synthetic every 3k and never used anything but those orange Fram filters. Nice to know now they were total crap lol.
I drive a 2005 Ford Taurus and not been using those frame ones too and good to know that they are sucky
Caution with any oil filter that has shrink wrap. Never take your finger and poke a hole in the threaded hole, as engine failure has occurred. The shrink wrap can end up in the center, where the oil comes out, this is unfiltered at this point, and tiny fragments of shrink wrap have plugged oil passage holes that supply oil to critical areas of the engine. A man with a turbo diesel engine was denied warranty when a cylinder failed due to this issue.
Good review. I have never had an issue with filters and have used FRAM Ultra Syn, Mobil 1 Ext, and on the F-150 those and OEM Motorcraft.
No matter how many miles the guarantee, I wouldn’t trust and do the changes when dashboard shows up for that, which is around 7k. My 99 Civic has 520k miles and never went for the most expensive filters or the cheapest ones either. Still running good
Microwaved looks to be my favorite out of all for price and effectiveness ❤
I use stp 10w30 high mileage junk and their filter on my XJ. It’s like 30$ to do a oil change for me and i change ur every 3k miles. 320k on the dash and when i pulled a main cap last month to do the rear main seal the bearing looked goes and the pan had no sludge or varnish
Does anyone else wonder if the have extended the intervals on these filters by opening up the media so the filter catches less contaminant and fills up more slowly?
No they extended the time so you're motor wearers out faster
Well since K&N, mobil 1, Super tech, ACdelco, are all made by Champion labs. Wix made by Wix owned by Mann&hummel. Fram is Fram and Micro Guard made in Vietnam. Amsoil made by Hastings which makes Baldwin. So what is is your point??
I remember using Hastings filters 40 years ago!
Based on your chart and physical inspection, the Microgard would be my choice, especially for $9.99. It has the most filter area and appears to be well constructed. Thanks. PS, the Microgard is made in Vietnam, according to the box.
Also you have to check the flow rate on all the filters. The ones that filter more are the ones that have a slower oil flow rate.
I've used Fram Ultra synthetic filters for the past 10 years, and I've had no issues with any of my cars.
👍
Don’t know where you’re buying your filters but, the Fram Ultra Synthetic is only $8.98 at my local Walmart.
Even cheaper than that on Rock Auto.
@@BamaTidefan1967 cuz Walmart
There is a trade-off between between flow-rate, particulate filtering, and the impeding of flow-rate based upon the amount/type of filter media.
The potential of oil-starving an engine due to an impeded flow-rate and the amount/type of media may (possibly) remove the MicroGuard as a contender--when compared to, for example, the Fram Ultra Synthetic.
The Fram Ultra Synthetic appears to strike a better balance between the above variables, and per these variables would be my first choice.
Unless the oil filter is used in off-road challenges and placed in a highly vulnerable area where it could be damaged by debris or direct hits (a design fault of the vehicle manufacturer), then the 0.015" case thickness is of little concern.
Flow rates and efficiency matter much more for racing 🏎 cars and for those with high speed engines. Daily drivers? Not so much.
Bummed you didn't show a Motorcraft filter to go head to head with the Delco.
You should do a test with them so every oil change you change the kind of filter to a different one you show in this video.
Starting from cheapest to most expensive and have the oil tested to see how well they did.
That would cost hundreds of dollars.
Always used the wix xp on my stuff. Cool video 👍🏼
I use almost only purolator boss now. I’ve used most of these, the fram ultra at Walmart can’t beat the price but it seemed like my truck was dry starting with it. I get the boss on sale for around 11-12 bucks and I change the oil 2-3 times using the same filter.
Used to be the rule with oil changes 2 oil changes 1 filter change.Change at 3,000miles mixed driving 2000 city driving.That was with regular oil.
On the chart, the length in inches is like 55 or so for most. 55 inches?
How about the filters that don't come in a can? My Corolla, I just unscrew the can/container and pop out the pleated filter media and replace it. which of those types of filters are best?
As someone who uses the fram tg on my vehicles, I generally use the mileage claims with a grain of salt. That said, I change my engine oil every ~5k miles and I think the tg is great filter despite it's cheap quality build. I'd definitely consider the microgard (budget friendly wix @ O'Reilly's?) as an option should I break away from my bias. Everything else, respectively is meh or too damn pricey for a 5k mile oil change, just my $0.02. :)
Same. I have three cars so I change the oil in them twice a year. So when I do change the oil on each car the oil and filter only has about 3 to 4 thousand miles. I think Fram TG is a middle of the road filter. People hate on the cardboard end caps but aslong as you change the filter every 5,000 miles or less I don't think they will fail. 10,000 mile filters blows my mind. Who changes there oil every 10,000 miles. Each their own
@@pablochavez9087 it's A LOT cheaper to change the oil early vs. changing an engine cause you wanted to save on your service intervals, lol. :)
@@Kingswood7189 Yep, I 100% agree. For an extra $8 per year (2 oil changes per year), jump up to the Fram Ultra Synthetic if you're happy with the Fram line of filters. Much better construction and better filtration (99% at 20 microns) than the Fram Extra Guard. To each their own, but with the cost of ALL engine parts going up dramatically with this inflation we're going through (not to mention the low supply of some parts), it's worth a few extra dollars per year to up my protection level some. The same goes for my oil. Amazon and Walmart sells 5 quart jugs of the top of the line full synthetic oils (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Castrol Edge, etc.) for $30 ($6 per quart) which is only $1 per quart more than the mediocre oil.
@@pablochavez9087 both of my vehicles have 10k mile oil change intervals as standard from the factory. oil now days is a lot better then 30 years ago. engines are too so 10k is becoming much more normal
I can see someone changing there oil every 10,000 miles if they are running a top of the line oil and oil filter. However, I wouldn't do it personally. I would push it to 6,000. These new cars with turbos put a beating on the oil. My opinion. Everyome can do as they please
2000 Chevy Blazer, 349,000 miles on the odometer, Mobil 1 10W30 every 3.5K miles and K&N filters all the way.
I would like to know how all these oil filter experts can tell you which filter works the best without testing them through a flow meter and counting particles and size. Or even tearing an engine down to see how much wear. Did you test the glue to see how it reacts with the oil additives? Is the silicone the same in every filter? How clean was the filter media when they were put together and are all of them the same?
Super Tech for my car was under $4. Unfortunately I can't always find my size, 9668, in that brand so I used to have to settle for Fram. I got a bad Fram filter last year, so i won't be making that mistake again. Lately when I can Super Tech 9668, I buy 3 or 4 at a time.
I just started using The XP for my new 2022 Honda cvic si
I use Purolator Boss. Seem really good, but would like to have that in the comparison!
Who leaves an oil filter on an engine for 20k miles? I use oem filters due to consistency in quality and price. My GM vehicles get ac/ delco filters. My subaru gets a black subaru filter. Never had an issue. Ive been a tech for 40 years seen plenty of junk filters. 3k oil change intervals and use high quality full synthetic oil. My GM rig gets GM spec DEXOS 1 labeled oil. Sold my GM pickup at 280k miles still running strong no oil consumption.
This guy deserves a ribbon for badazzery or an extra cookie or beer or something...hell idk. But no seriously, thanks man!!!!! Best dang review I've seen in a LONG TIME. PERIOD. 👉👍👈
Walmart Super Tech full synthetic five quart oil jug and a Fram ultra synthetic filter. About $30.00 with tax for both. Labor free. By me.
I'm currently running Supertech Advanced full synthetic 20k in my work car and F150, I'm a believer in it. Great oil, great price
Where your Purolator boss filter
Saw Engine Masters test several oil filters - K&N came out on top - that's what i've been using for several years now even before watching the program. Air and Oil on my truck, van and motorcycle.
My dad was an Industrikal Engineer and manufactured heavy oil field equipment for 30yrs. He didnt put much stock into changing oil; just keep it full. But…he usually traded vehicles by 70,000 miles too! LoL
What's his name? Don't wanna buy his vehicle 😅
I've bought used cars with sludge from lack of oil changes, one was a 79' Mustang with a 302, sludge clogged the rubber hose from the carb to the oil fillter cap, caused remain seal to blow. Stupid mechanic I took it too said my engine was shot, I had the long block replaced, it happened again, then he found the problem. I watch for sludge now, I guess your dad wasn't a good engineer...
Great video, but I see no reason to abandon my Fram orange box that I have relied on for 50 years.
The ones with the plastic cage are no for me. From the K&N and upwards, the metal cores looks very restrictive, compared the the bigger holes in the cheaper filters. Wont that increase pressure and therefore promotes the bypass valve to open and unfiltered oil to the engine? To me, it looks like the best compromise is the Fram Ultra, bigger holes in the metal core and dual filter media.
I've wondered the same thing myself actually. One would think the design engineers are confident it's not an issue.
Plastic cages are thoroughly tested, very tough, and flow better than any metal cage.
Only if you are allowing it to stay on the car so long the filter medium get clogged. Filters are cheap (so is oil) - change often. Especially if you have a car with variable timing that relies on the oil pressure for timing chain tension and adjustment.
ACDelco filters don’t come sealed and sometimes not even in a box. The gaskets fall off as soon as you turn them upside down.
I switched to Purolator and can tell the difference with performance. Smoother running truck now
Would love to see how a Baldwin filter compares. No one is including these in their tests.
Super tech, ACDelco and STP are all made by champion labs