EXPIRED: When Does New Oil Go Bad?
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- If you are like me, you probably have a several bottles of "new" oil in your garage, but they have probably been there for a while. Like a gallon of milk in your refrigerator, does a bottle of motor oil have an expiration date? Unfortunately, I've never seen a "use by" date on a bottle of oil, so how can you know if your "new" oil has gone "bad"?
In this video, I'll show you two simple ways to test your un-used oil at home to see it is still safe to use.
Here are the links to the products I used to do the tests.
Glass Beaker: amzn.to/3O3LYMJ
Frother: amzn.to/4bcsL5B
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Who is the @themotoroilgeek ? I'm a Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers Certified Lubrication Specialist and Oil Monitoring Analyst (I've maintained both of those for over a decade). I also worked for Joe Gibbs Racing for 12 years as their lubricant specialist. During that time, we worked with Wix Filters (one of our sponsors) to test and develop filters for our race engines. We also worked with Lubrizol and Chevron-Phillips Chemical to test and develop oils for our race cars. Following that, I was the head of R&D for Driven Racing Oil. During that time, I formulated and tested over 50 products. We also worked with Cummins, Comp Cams, Oak Ridge National Labs and General Motors on various R&D products. Those efforts are recorded in peer reviewed white papers published by SAE International and ACS Sustainable Chemistry journals. I also own and operate SPEEDiagnostix, which provides used oil analysis.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases That just means that I may earn a small commission, at no cost to you, if you choose to purchase that product from Amazon.com. It is a way to help support the work of The Motor Oil Geek.
#motoroil #syntheticoil
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Does shaking the bottle of OLD oil "fix" it? Here are the lab results that reveal the answer: ruclips.net/video/QeNLVUdoBU0/видео.html
The first question to be answered is whether or not falling out of suspension degrades the ingredients. Once answered, your answer is obvious.
Yes, yes it does.
For racing, every bit counts. Engines suffer more damage from heavy load, city driving & heavy throttle usage. Best to use what factory called for, in the religion where one drives. Old oil is still far better than low oil level or 15,000 mile oil change.
Admit it, you just wanted to make some extra funnels.
Excellent information, thanks!
You are very lucky to reach your age and still have your father around. Let him know how much you appreciate him before you can't anymore.
He's not that old
That feels like more of an insult than it's meant to be. If his dad is in his 80s I'd be surprised, mid 70s if I'd have to guess. And his health is in check, given that he was a race car driver, he was probably always in good shape and didn't treat his body like crap
Some men have children when they are older. My Dad was 43 when I was born. Mom was 39. Mom passed at 87, and Dad passed at 97, I was 54. Lucky they lived long lives or I could have lost them in my 40s.
My dad died when I was 15 years old. That single day event shaped my entire life.
@@gtileonever know what can happen man. My dad died at 49 from stage 4 lung cancer, never smoked a day in his life, was always in great shape, ate healthy, you just never know who’s not going to win the health lottery.
Retired from 40+ years in the oil industry including many years manufacturing PCMO's and other lubricants. We had display cases with motor oil going back to the 50's. I often wondered what the oil in them would look like. Buy when price is good and rotate your stock. Not so much due to aging oil but more because the technology improves every couple of years. I recall the scramble to meet API-SH and the introduction of ILSAC back in the early 90's, a real game changer. Keep up the great content!
Thanks for sharing!
Im old remember when switched to detergent
what was the deal with old quaker state oil solidifying? I remember seeing that as a kid but no one cared and some thought it made it better. (I always preferred valvoline but they are independent so you probably hated them?)
@@brijohnson6660 I’m all good with Valvoline. The solidification of the old Quaker State was due to the paraffin content. There are pros and cons to the paraffin base oils.
..oil technology improved until they started taking the zinc out..:(
To be honest I'm actually interested to see the old oils lab test to see how good they still are or not good for anything at all
Noted!
So do i!
Good video
Does it matter if they're foaming etc... anyways?
So you weren't listening when he said you don't want air bubbles in your oil, huh? @@ronswanson8563
That photo of your dad on the track ahead of Senna is GOLD!
Thanks!
Wait, YOUR dad beat Ayrton Senna? The thumbnail needs an update.
Gold!
Agreed. Amazing!
Please have Sr tell that story
Most important channel for car guys ever. Everyone doing internal combustion engines needs to know this stuff. I'm 70 and I wish this info was available 55 years ago. Keep up the good work.
Thank you!
I too am 70 this year and wish I knew this long ago.
add me to that list also
Did you know that Walmart gets their SuperTech from Mobil / Morgan.or Warren oil, depending on your part of the USA? I believe the Mobil Superteck has a Blue M at the bottom of label, front or back? And I think they have a bigger Blue cap? I never thought I would ever say this; SuperTech tests very well for everyday cars, can't be;ieve I said that? U even bought a 5 qt bottle, for flushing! LOL
@@DF-tz3ix- Me too !!!
Additive fall out in new oil too.
Shake the bottles.
PF say.
Shaking is not a bad idea for new oils.
Why not for old oils?
@@hesatoI think for the purposes of inspecting, it might be better to check it as-is such as mentioned looking into the bottom of the container to see if there’s been some type of sludge or separation down there.
yep invalid test he didnt shake them new oil out of store have that much in bottom if not Shaked
@@hesato As stated below, if the oil is old and you are going to check for separation, don't shake it. Good oils should not separate in short term storage.
I hate to admit it, I’ve used oil over 10 yrs old many times. I have bulk oil from my semis, 15W40, and run it in everything I own!
The date on the drums are 10152003 and 01152010!
Some people will look at the date on food and throw out if expired. “EXP date” is not reality. Spoilage is the real issue. The date is a guess or has different agendas.
I bought 29 jugs of Chevron/Havoline Pro Deposit Sheild in 2017, still have 10+. We don't put big miles on our cars and I change it out every 5K.
I've run 10+ year old 15W40 bulk oil in my diesels. Sent off samples after changing the oil, and always come back fine.
@@bobirving6052 The date is not "agenda" it is how long it is expected to last. Like with warranty, if 1% if the product is defect after X year and 10% after X+2 it will likely have a warranty (exp date) of X or X+1 years. Nothing state that your product or how you store it will make it go bad at that date, its just nobody will put up the money to guarantee it any longer than that
Had a 87 Nissan PU ran a mixture of 10W30 3qts 10W40 1qt had 375,000 miles when I sold it. Oil and Nissan filter every 3500-4000 miles, adjusted valves every 50,000 miles
If the oil is in a sealed container, then in theory all the additives should still be there too. I'd be curious if there's a difference between old oil that just sat there, and old oil that was vigorously mixed/shaken. Granted, chemical reactions in the oil can't be undone by shaking it, but I think it'd be neat to see the effect shaking the oil would have on its "badness."
i was taught that the additives would coalesce and settle at the bottom. In an industrial setting, recommendation was to roll the drum and settle it on it's side and change position regularly. This are for oils sitting for more than 5 years.
In storage stability testing, any visible separation or haze is a fail.
@@themotoroilgeekI buy Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 and if I don’t shake up the 5L bottle, there’s always blackish looking residue at the bottom. These jugs are usually production dated 4-6 months before I purchase them.
@@orionschroeder9401 I use Ultra and have noticed the exact same thing. I try to limit my purchases so as I don’t have much more than a year or so, (never exceeding two) stored. I always purchase the 5 qt jugs, and when I think of it, I also give them a shake once in awhile and return to the shelf.
I'm pretty sure that at least one manufacturer put out a technical bulletin recommending you shake the motor oil before pouring. I don't know if new additives or synthetic base stocks just aren't as good at dissolving the additives.
Wow, your father's story made me appreciate your channel 10 times more. Real petrol head. Awesome!
thanks
I’m one of many volunteers working to get USS NEW JERSEY ( Iowa class battleship) to drydock in the next few months. One of our tasks is reactivating the anchor/windlass system to allow us to leave the pier.
Oil in this system is a minimum of 32 years old, and the original plan was to fully flush and refill lubricating and hydraulic oils. But when I sent samples out for analysis, they still came back as good, with a recommendation to filter the hydraulic oil as the solids were slightly high. This isn’t a surprise since that system only has a strainer screen (think 1930s tech) and the sample was taken from a low point of a 70 gallon system that has been resting for 20+ years.
In this case we will be filtering and adding a decent amount new. And the use of a mil spec oil here is one case where spending a bit more gets benefits…not totally unlike racin’!
how about the water content? 32 years of condensation should've come out with a relatively substantial % volume?
After 30+ years on a boat I'd be checking for water in that oil.
I follow BB62's youtube channel. I would love to be able do that type of volunteer work aboard her. You're very fortunate to be able to do that. Looking forward to seeing the dry docking. Have fun!
Finally someone on line actually putting out facts not fiction.Thank you Lake for this public service.
Thanks!
Check out Project Farm and his oil tests
Interestingly enough, I’ve seen additives drop out of new oils after I emptied the containers into my engine and looked into the bottom of the plastic container.
If I think about it, I try to shake the jugs of oil before I open them up to help get the dropped out particles suspended again.
Thanks for sharing!
Yeah even if it's new, I always at least do several flips of the jug to make sure any settled additives end up in suspension right before pouring in and make their way into the crankcase, oil pump will re-blend it, no need to toss it. I mean if it's years old...yeah...I wouldn't use it.
Same here. A tiny amount of greyish green dust noted on bottom of newish Castrol bottle of mineral oil. Probably some molybdenum. White color bottle made in easy to notice. If it were black it would be impossible to see.
Store your oil upside down ?
@@markme4then they would just drop out into the cap. Shaking is the only way
Well done Lake and thank you. Great to see your Dad again too. He looks terrific and HNY to you all.
Thanks!
I love learning how much you have to offer. I watched your dad a lot back in the day.
I appreciate that!
I’ve had Pennzoil Ultra Platinum jugs that were just a few months old have obvious additive separation that looked like sediment. I shook up the jugs before use and my car didn’t explode.
That was probably the borate ester, which can separate quite easily. Your engine mixed it back together.
@@themotoroilgeek Whatever separates out of the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum jugs doesn't seem to mix back into the oil very well, I've shaken them very well before use and still had crap at the bottom of the bottle. That issue has been going on with Pennzoil synthetics since at least around 2011 and I've heard it has been solved recently, but I can't verify because I haven't used it in years.
@@averyalexander2303 Thanks for the feedback. The GTL base oil has low solvency (just like a PAO). The separation issues seem to confirm my suspicion that the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum uses a borate ester. These tend to have separation problems, and they won't blend back in easily.
@@themotoroilgeek Makes sense, that's why I don't use it anymore. Not saying it's a bad product, but it seems like permanently losing its additives even during brief storage is a pretty major flaw and I'd expect better from Shell as one of the largest oil suppliers in the world.
Also, in my application, it didn't do a very good job at keeping my rebuilt engine clean after about 50K miles even though the oil was changed about every 4K miles and almost all those miles were highway, not short trips or in traffic. Again, not saying it's a bad product, it just didn't work very well in my application, so I'm using a different brand now.
@@averyalexander2303 thanks for sharing
Worked for Valvoline as a chemist and then worked at the research center of Union Oil of California (later to become Unocal). A lot depends on the blend/additive package and storage conditions. Just opened some 40 year Valvoline I had kept from when I worked for them A quart of Valvoline 30wt looks fine. A 50wt Racing had some minor residue. Pennzoil 30wt was my go to for old engines that consumed oil as it had better viscosifiers. Depending on your application, most old oils may be fine to use. Like in a lawnmower or older car you don't car much about.
ruclips.net/video/QeNLVUdoBU0/видео.html
In the early 2000’s I ran some OLD Havoline 10W30 and 10W40 oil in my Toyota pickup. These were CANS of oil that I know had been on the shelf in my grandpa’s garage all my life and who knows how long before that. So, I’d seen them there since the early eighties. There were several cases. My uncle used the pennzoil and Quaker State and I used the Havoline. At least 2-1/2 to 3 cases at 4-1/2 quarts per oil change is at least six oil changes. Plus there were enough loose quarts of another brand (Castrol I think?) to change it a couple more times. Basically, I ran this vintage oil for YEARS in an engine with roughly 400,000 miles on it. Last time I saw that engine in 2005 it was running strong.
I still have a couple of quarts of that Havoline. Only reason I haven’t used them is I’m told the old style cans are worth something to guys and gals who show cars. I’ve often wondered if they’re worth more in my engine than on the shelf.
I’m curious how these non-synthetic oils compare after all these years.
Also, I still have one of his oil spouts somewhere.
I use a lot of oil of different types and brands and see additives on the bottom of the bottles all the time in new oil, very easy to see in gold, yellow and silver coloured containers, that’s why you shake the oil
A little shake certainly helps. Which oils do you see the most separation from?
Good question...I also want to know.
@jackflash939
Do you remember all or some of the brands that you see separation in the new oil?
ruclips.net/video/QeNLVUdoBU0/видео.html
I used 35 year old Castro GTX 10w-30, mixed in with leftover Penzoil in my 2004 Volvo. Drove 2000 miles to Florida and the oil level was at the bottom of the dipstick. I topped off with 2 quarts Supertech synthetic, and after driving back, the level has been steady.
My dad still has Arco Graphite Oil from the 70's. He shakes the cans on a paint shaker and runs it in his 1962 Ariens snow blower. Kind of crazy but that snow blower still runs great.
Project Farm has done tests right here on RUclips of oil 40 years old and it still performed as it should have.
Wouldn't use ANY oils even unopened full synthetic types older than 5yrs in my expensive Ford F150 Tremor 4wd truck & *garage queen* factory supercharged 04 Mustang SVT Cobra "terminator". Not worth it to me! Prob would tho in lawn mower or yard equipment etc.
You brought a tear to my eye when you opened the can of Mobil 1.
That was super cool. I was genuinely excited about it.
Just like all salt (NaCl) is, in fact, “sea salt,” all oil is “old oil.” How old? About 95% of the petroleum we pump out of the earth was formed in the range of 65 to 250 MILLION years ago.
But the question here has to do with the shelf-life of bottled automotive engine oil, none of which is stamped with a “use by” date like milk.
With respect only to motor oil that has been factory sealed in its original container, the fact that certain additives like molybdenum disulfide (a friction inhibitor), detergents and viscosity improvers, may have settled out of suspension over time is largely immaterial because once your engine has run long enough to warm up, and the oil has been churned through your oil pump hundreds of times, the additive package will have become reintegrated with the petroleum “base,” and function just fine - - in an engine that was initially designed to use that particular grade (i.e. “SH, or SJ) and weight (viscosity) of oil.
The real risk in using very old oil, is not that the oil has “spoiled” like milk, but lies in the fact that over the decades, the design standards established for engine lubricants have been steadily upgraded by the American Petroleum Institute (API) and its European counterparts.
For one, the “bases,” which are largely synthetics among the higher quality products, and the “additive packages,” have progressively been improved by petroleum engineers, reflecting the demands of the ever increasing volumetric efficiency of modern internal combustion engines.
Secondly, many modern engines specify ever lower oil viscosity ranges, including 0W-16, a very “thin” oil compared to the “straight 30 weight” likely specified for use in the antiquated engine in your air-cooled lawn mower, thinner yet than the 20W-50 “racing oils” we older gear-heads put into the crankcases of our 1960-something muscle cars.
The reasons for the newer low viscosity motors oils are is twofold: Due to vastly more accurate design and machining of the moving metal parts in a modern engine (much “tighter” tolerances), a lower viscosity oil can provide adequate mechanical cushioning, which is part of an oil’s function. Secondly, by definition, viscosity is “resistance to flow.” Thus, “thinner” lubricants produce less drag on moving parts. Obviously, the lower the friction (drag), more of the torque produced by the engine is used to make the car move. Put another way, you are burning less fuel to frictional losses, instead of causing your car to go. Hence, we are seeing ever higher MPG ratings and often more horsepower from the same size (or even smaller) engines than 10 or 20 years ago, and generally way more than 50 or 60 years ago.
So, to summarize, it’s quite unlikely that motor oil still sealed from the factory 40 years ago has “gone bad,” it’s very likely that it’s hardly ideal to use in anything more modern than your lawnmower or snowblower.
Same reaction here. I wanted to reach into the screen, pop two holes with a flat blade screw driver, and pour. Just to make sure I haven't lost my touch. ~ Chuck
Wow, how sad
@@stevensilz-carson1793 so what i am gathering from your wise words is that the 5 quart sealed jug of full synthetic 10w-30 i bought 4 years ago for my 90's mini truck is still good to use with it. I dont think i would attempt to put 20+ year old oil in anything i really care about lol
I am new to your channel and I have learned so much over the last few weeks from watching your content. What a pleasure it was to see your Dad in this video with you.
Awesome! Thank you!
I have used full synthetics that have been in my shed for 5 years, shook it up, didn't have a problem. That Mobile One was PAO based, it was likely before the lawsuit with Castrol when they came out with group III. Love your oil reviews.
Interesting and valuable- thanks. I operate high performance air cooled engines (in aircraft) and I’ve never understood why engines that have literally no time on previous oil change the manufacturers still require multiple oil changes each year.
Thank you , it's always good to listen to a professional! It was GREAT to see your dad again also!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I wouldn't throw out the old oil. I'd probably use it for an engine flush, run it on a shorter interval, or use it in an old 4 cycle engine. I'd be interested in an oil analysis on these to see how much add pack and VI is in them.
That’s actually a really great idea.
I'll do the oil analysis on those old oils.
@@themotoroilgeek Awesome! 👍👍
Yes, it can also be used where the chemistry doesn't really matter, such as in workshop tasks such as drilling and quenching or lubricating hedge trimmers and the like, but those boxes of bottles would last several lifetimes!
@@stco2426 Great point! I meant to mention that in the video as an alternative use. Thanks for mentioning that.
Seeing your dad‘s go kart really brought back some memories for me. I was a kid racing go karts in the mid 70s. I was at the 1975 IKF south central sprint winter nationals where your dad did pretty good including winning the C open class.
People often neglect servicing the rear differential oil. If vintage oil is that bad in the bottle imagine what it is like in a car that has been sitting for many years, especially "will it run" videos.
Great point! Get it running and then change the oil!
I did that test with gear oil. I bought a 74 car that had only 15k miles in 1993. I just started driving it about 4-5 years ago. The first thing I noted was that it was extremely stiff to shift. I didn't think about the age of the gear oil right away, and thought this low mileage gearbox would need a rebuild. Then I got to thinking and I checked the original owner's service history. He had the gear oil changed in 1975, so it was well over 40 years old! I dumped that oil as fast as I could and put new 80W-90 mineral oil in it. Instantly, the shifting effort was reduced to about 1/3 of what it was. It now has Royal Purple 75W-90 syn gear oil and the trans shifts quite good.
great video < thanks for sharing your expertise yet again! definitely would love to see the oil sample composition of the older racing oils!
You got it!
Would love to see analysis of those oils. Especially to see the oxidation numbers. Also, could you not shake the oil vigorously (paint shaker maybe) to remix the additives?
Great question. There is a blend order when making oil, and that is important to how the oil actually works. The engine will remix the oil, but why it separated in the first place is something to consider. We will do the oil analysis on the old oils.
@@themotoroilgeek Is it possible that time has more to do with additive separation than anything else with these older oils that haven't seen extreme temperatures? I think without lab testing also there is a lot of conjecture happening here.
@@guywihn1658 Low temperature storage has more influence on additive separation than time. Also, visible separation is a fail in storage stability testing, so there is no conjecture here.
@@themotoroilgeek did you know if any of the oil companies or labs actually did a 10 year experiment like that? Would be interesting to find out if the additives do fall out and settle at the bottom and draw samples from top and bottom to test.
edit: bad habit of commenting without watching and realise you've address most of what I said in the beginning.
@@smoadia85 no problem! The standard testing is 30 day cold storage. The longest I’ve ever seen is 90 days cold storage.
I had oil in my garage for 20 years and it ran perfect for a 5K oil change interval.
Here's another reason why everyone should change their manual transmission oil as well, even though the manufacturers say in their user manual that it's never necessary. Thanks for another great video!
Is that kind of like "lifetime" transmission fluid. Lifetime equals the warranty period.
@@markleggett3944 Exactly 💯
Lake,
Great job, I have used a bottle/church key to open thousand cans of Mobil jet oil. To this day they still come in those silver cans.. love to see your voa on those oils. Good to see your dad, he’s looking great.. take care..
Thank you
I absolutely love the Speed family for sharing their knowledge Thank you so much
Thanks for watching!
I had a sealed 200ml burette of new high quality mineral 20W-60 sat on a shelf for maybe 10 yrs, over that time it stratified so that it was very dark at the bottom and progressively lighter toward the top. I now invert oil containers occasionally.
Hey, thanks for doing this stuff, man! REALLY appreciated! 👍
edit: I'll pass on the "smell-o-vision" for the gear oil... thanks! lol
That reminds me now of when I worked as BMW tech, when I was young...there was a soap dispenser on the wall of the locker room/bathroom that was empty for at least a month... so I decided to go back into my cabinet, and fill the dispenser with some 90wt and stick it back on the wall... Hiding around the corner while watching my workmate "lather it up" into his hands, only for the sink faucet water to bead right off was pretty funny. Boy that stuff smells (and it doesn't go away for a WHILE)!
I am SUCH a geek-nerd!
I am learning so much and YOU do a great job of maintaining this certified ADD guy's interest. Great voice inflection and emphasis!
Now to look for what is more likely for me, to appreciate what happens to oil in different gae gasoline engines and the nature of degradation.
Thanks for some GRETA work and teaching!
Awesome! Thank you!
Somewhere around the 3rd or 4th time you told the shop building / racing /engine building story my eyes started to glaze over.
This is why I love your channel it’s full of great, scientifically proven information you can’t find anywhere else.
Fun fact: my wife’s grandmother lived next door to Senna’s grandmother in São Paulo.
Awesome!
Definitely send it off for analysis
Will do!
ruclips.net/video/QeNLVUdoBU0/видео.html
Great video, and a wonderful bonus to see Lake. I watched him back in the day on Nascar tracks.
Glad you enjoyed it
I've never been that mechanically inclined, but I do change my own oil. I'm enjoying geeking out on your channel.
Now your Dad's gonna want you to clean all the old oil out of the garage! Awesome video, keep up the great work!
LOL, Thanks 👍
That can is probably had value. I do not see many cans anymore. I have one that is an Esso Uniflo but the can is cardboard, not steel. Steel can were easy to open with the push in spout. Cardboard cans would sometimes collapse when installing the spout. Messy as you are not prepared for such a thing to happen.
Love your channel and followed your Dad back in the day!
Awesome! Thank you!
I think we're all eyeballing a case of old oil right now in our basement or shop... I am still using some 8 year old diesel 5w40 that I got for a steal, have to check them!
Right on!
Your Dad Raced NASCAR, when NASCAR was cool. Hello Lake Speed, hope things are good for you. I miss watching you race every weekend.
Great video. What I liked best was seeing the rapport between you and your father. And the yellow sticker on the door entering the shop was the best. JS.
Glad you enjoyed it
I had some cases of Belray 4 stoke racing oil that separated after about a year. Lucky for me, I remembered you saying something about it years ago. So I checked it. Im glad I did Lake, Thank You.
Wow! I'm glad it helped!
Id definitely like to see oil sample testing of the old oils.
Can the oils be shaken up to remix the additives back in? Like in a paint shaker.
Or, can regular shaking to new oil keep separation at bay?
Isn’t that the Slippery, Million Dollar Question though? (Will shaking the oil bottle mix everything back in enough to pour into the engine, where further constant mixing will be happening as you drive???) like does that even work???
@@I_know_what_im_talking_about
I'm thinking your wheels are turning on how to find out. 👍
Great question. There is a blend order when making oil, and that is important to how the oil actually works. The engine will remix the oil, but why it separated in the first place is something to consider. We will do the oil analysis on the old oils.
@@themotoroilgeek Good to know, but what does that mean in practice? Assuming the oil wasn't discolored or cloudy and someone did successfully manage to mix the additives back into the oil, would the oil then be safe to use? Or are you saying that the additives separating is as a result of some type of degradation and it will just separate again?
Mr. Geek , your channel is gold!
Thanks!
Worked in hydro generating station built by the United States bureau reclamation, we used shell turbo 68 & 32 in our bearing baths for the turbines that were connected with a pipe gallery to a huge vented filtered and unfiltered tanks, we moved the unfiltered thru a high pressure filter and reused it for over 25 years no problem.
Curious to see the oil analysis of the 40 year old Mobil One.
Noted!
ruclips.net/video/QeNLVUdoBU0/видео.html
I do see all the time such black residue on the bottom of pennzoil platinum full synthetic even which are a few months old. Great to see your dad btw
Thanks for watching!
as a teenager exploring I ran across cases of canned oil in a almost collapsed barn next to a long abandoned house in the '90s. these cans were old old oil. I want to say 50s stuff
I used every bit of it for oil changes never had an issue in the 70's vehicles I was driving at the time . I thought synthetic oil would have a much longer shelf life than conventional and I see that is definitely not the case. Now I know if I want to store some motor oil for a mad Max style apocalypse I'm going to store some conventional oil.
Forgive me if this sounds like a stupid question, but shouldn't you shake the bottle lightly before opening and using? I look forward to your response. I shake my bottles lightly before opening so as to avoid a separation issue.
I would not recommend shaking the bottles before doing a test like this. You don't want to possibly hide a potential problem. Otherwise, I do gently shake the bottles before pouring them into the engine.
ruclips.net/video/QeNLVUdoBU0/видео.html
Definitely interesting in the lab results.
Excellent educational video.
Thank you!
ruclips.net/video/QeNLVUdoBU0/видео.html
LOVE, LOVE, LOVE this video!!! I've been searching this information for two years!! I even phoned Amsoil, to get advice on how to check old oil... they wouldn't give it, or at least the customer service person/expert didn't know how to. Thank you LS2nd!
Glad it was helpful!
Yes, I remember oil cans well and I still in many ways prefer them. They are much less likely to tip over. And I used to have the drain spouts that punctured the can, but also had a cap on so you could reseal a partial can for later use.
Thanks for the tips. I'm guessing the oils you tested were all kept at room temperatures the past few years. I don't know if varying temperatures would matter or not. I've got old oil in containers that has been sitting in my shop which goes from 90 in the summer to negative 40 in the winter. I'll try your test on them.
These old oils were not kept at room temperature. The shop temperature varies a lot.
@@themotoroilgeek Nice analysis. Thank you for making the video.
I've been seeing some brown in the bottom for years. I just shack them up before using. Never lost a motor yet. I'm in North West Indiana in unheated and cooled barn. Doing oil changes in the winter I will warm up the oil before putting in a warm motor.
This is good to know. I never thought about oil going bad. I do have some old oil so I’ll test it before use. Now I’m wondering about the 2 stroke mix oil I have for 20 years.
I’m glad it helped. The gasoline in the 20 year old 2 cycle pre-mix is bad by now.
@@themotoroilgeek I’m not referring to mixed gas I’m referring to the oil used to mix with gas. I have some old torco full synthetic, smokless 2-cycle oil. Should I empty the container and check for residue? The oil was and still is very dark purple.
@@bigskunk801 10-4, check it to see if there is residue. 2 cycle oils can live longer than 4 cycle oils.
Another excellent, informative video! Very cool bonus having your dad appear in the video.
Thank you!
I can confirm the paint and freezing
Chaulk also
I found a gallon bottle of 5 year old Mobil 1 Extended Performance in my garage a while back. I used it my Trailblazer which takes 7 quarts mixed with a new oil. It didn't blow up or cause any noticeable problems. It definitely wasn't stored correctly and was exposed to freezing temperatures. I tried to find information on it before I used it, but couldn't find much. I wish this video would have been around then. Great information!
I bought a case of oil (name brand) on sale several years ago. I happened to notice a mfg. code -- not an expiration date -- on the bottle. So, I called the company to learn how to decipher the code. The rep said that most engine oils are good for five years past the mfg. date, and told me how to decipher the code to learn of the oil mfg. date. Turns out that I had only about 2 years remaining to use the oil, which would be just long enough for me to use it before it went bad. The case of oil was probably on sale to get rid of it oil because it was not moving. Thus, if a case of oil is on sale, check the mfg. code and call the oil company -- the 800 number is usually on the back of the bottle -- to learn how to decipher the mfg. date code before buying.
I have seen this in bottles i had just picked up from the store before doing an oil change.. what i was curious about is, can you just stir or shake the bottle up to re-suspend the stuff in the oil?
Shake the bottles and let the engine do the rest. However, make note of the production date on the bottle. It might be several years old already.
If you have a car that sits for weeks like an antique or classic, this separation is happening in the oil pan. I've owned old cars for years and never had a problem resulting from this.
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First time watching, the topic jumped out to me.
Finding out who your Dad is, and seeing Lake, made my day.
Blast from the past. Hope he is doing great.
Thank you!
I was the biggest fan of your dad. No. 9 SPAM car was my favorite. My buddies rooted for all the big names and used to laugh at me rooting for your dad. Loved when No. 83 beat Kulwicki
Thanks!! Appreciate all the Lake Speed fans!
Im glad I saw this. I thought oils couldnt age out. I had some old gear oil I thought would have been good to use. Only brand new oils now.
Glad to help
To the outsider, these videos must be a total ‘swipe by’, but to us true petrolheads/gearheads, they are like striking gold.
Loved this one, as usual, as it answers an age old question.
Thank you 🙏 👍
Thank you!
Yes, I'd like to see what is at the bottom of these oil containers.
Coming soon!
ruclips.net/video/QeNLVUdoBU0/видео.html
Oxidation level test is a must. Can't wait to watch the next episode.
Absolutely, Thanks for watching!
ruclips.net/video/QeNLVUdoBU0/видео.html
Found your channel via your collab with @BeardedFordTech on his Ranger Oil analysis w/ start-stop on very interesting results , inregards to the oil deteriorating in the plastic bottles vs the older metal mobil 1 can did all the manufacturers put a nitrogen blanket to prevent oxidizing of the oil within the container? Or is the vapor space too small for that to really matter? Thanks again for the informative vid Lake
Thanks for watching. I don’t know of any manufacturer that deals with the nitrogen blanket.
Possibly the best video you have done so far.
Thank you!
Wow, thanks!
Im definitely gonna shake up my oil containers before I do a an oil change from now on and I am going to invert them for a few days in a warm room also and hand shake them periodically Thanks so much for this rare and needed information Lake and family
Right on
@@themotoroilgeek
So it's ok to shake ??
@@hotrodray6802yes, that is fine.
ruclips.net/video/QeNLVUdoBU0/видео.html
wow........... 70 YO backyard mechanic and I learned a couple things from this vid. Thanks Sir!
What about the relatively common requirement to carry out an oil change for example every 15.000 km or 12 months, whichever occurs first? I mean the engine oil being in use in the engine is not going to go bad after 12 months, if it has only been run for 10.000 km, is it?
This is something I have never really understood, and I tend towards using the oil for the entire milage instead of changing it after 12 months.
Maybe you could shed some light on this topic and make a dedicated video. I would highly appreciate it. Thanks.
Love your nerdy content. 👍🏻
Please change your oil every year
@@RawbLV Alright, but I am wondering why. 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks for the question! That's a great topic for a future video.
Old oil is better than NO oil.
Wow, Dad looks great! I remember watching him race Nascar in the 80s! Another great video. Thanks!
He's doing awesome, and can still wheel a race car.
I really appreciate your expertise in oils, and love the fact that you share this information, but I think AMSOIL was the first to produce a synthetic oil for Automobiles back in 1972, and I think MOBIL 1 came out in 1976.
Thanks for watching and the kind words. This will sound like a little bit of a technicality, but the original Amsoil formula which came out in 1972 was Ester based and not a PAO based product. The original Mobil 1, which came out in 1974 in Europe, was PAO based. That’s why I said the Mobil 1 was the first PAO synthetic motor oil.
Many new oils have this same seperation if not shaken before use , such as redline full synthetic and pennzoil platinum. You should shake them and retest
ruclips.net/video/QeNLVUdoBU0/видео.html
Thanks for the tutorial on new and old oil. I've got some motor oil lying around and was wondering if it's still good. Now I know how to check it. Thanks again for the information.
Glad to help
I had several bottles of old Mobil 1 oil that had turned a dark brown. I did not trust it, or want to use it for engines, so I used it as a stain and preservative for the boards on my flatbed trailer. It makes the bare wood look really good.
Great alternative use!
Definitely get a sample of each and send them to the lab. I'd like to see what's left of the additives in those old oils.
Will do!
ruclips.net/video/QeNLVUdoBU0/видео.html
20 years ago I got into the wal-mart and there was a almost full pallett of 5w30 motortech mineral at liquidation for 3.97 cdn$ / gallon , I bought the whole pallett , I am still today running that oil in my toyotas but cut it by half with synthetic 10w40 motortech oil for my sr20det 270hp 32 years old original , what is important is to change your oil regularly and to shake it before pouring it , since the plastic container is isolator static helps faster separation because of the increased field
You have a great follow up video on this. Many questions around if you just shake the old bottle and remix the additives and whether this would make a difference. If you tested an old bottle on a lawn motor which was not shaken and then one which was shaken. Then had both oil samples analysed for wear. This would be a test most of your viewers would love to see.
Agreed. We are already making plans for the next video!
this would be very hard to get anything meaningful from. you could add a 3rd test of the same oil fresh from Orallys, then if all 3 show up identical, you would be onto something.
If you ran a motor for X hours with old oil shaken and not shaken and compared the oil analysis, then you can see if there is more or less wear. Makes sense to me.@@brijohnson6660
ruclips.net/video/QeNLVUdoBU0/видео.html
The painter that told your dad a out paint separation when it freezes is correct. Once oil or latex paint freezes, the solids and adhesion promoters fall out of suspension and will never blend back in. That is why paints are kept in warm storage. I have seen paint in unopened cans go 10nyears in temperature control storage and cans that have been frozen just once go bad.
Nice to see your dad.
In early 2023 I found an opened jug of sj rated Pennzoil I bought between 1999 and 2001. Put it in my riding lawnmower last year. Its still alive.
It had a few wax bugers floating on top.
Foam test at the end was solid.
Thanks! That was my favorite part as well.
Some years ago, on my once a year visit to WalMart, I saw an end aisle had jugs of Penn Ultra. On clearance for $10. Bought all they had, 13 of them. Eventually all got used, and never had a prob. Engines were still quiet when I sold those cars, after quite a few years of driving in the SW heat.
good info here and I've used oil over 5 years old many times with no problems. However, anything after, say 7 years, and I would be suspect so thanks for this post.
INTAKE VALVE DEPOSITS and what role motor Oil has in degree of severity.
Do you have any experience on this topic?
Would love to see a dedicated video on the topic!
Consider reviewing this paper: "Lubrizol: Lower SAPS Engine Oils - Essential components in maintaining vehicle emissions compliance"
Gosh where have the years gone. Im about your dads age and when my mind thinks old oil I envision a round metal or cardboard can from when I worked as a kid in gas stations.
Right on!
About 20 years ago I bought some Quaker State that was sold in clear bottles. Had 1 bottle I didn't use & forgot about it. Found it 10 years later & could see that it had separated. There was 2 inches of a crystal clear colorless gell in the bottom of the bottle. Never was a Penzoil/QS person before, seeing that gell enforced my belief that Valvoline is a better conventional oil.
Friend of mine was a chemist for coop back when they had stations and had the oil cabinets outside by the gas pumps. He said they would pull the oil at the major season changes and put out fresh oil. I asked if there was anything to it and he said I don't know but they pulled it. He was in a different division like fertilizer.
Thanks for sharing!
Interesting video. Seeing those lab results would make a good follow up video.
I've got some old oils and when I'd use them, I'd always give it a good shake before use just incase of separation. Additionally, some of them i notice a color change like you saw. Im glad i never put them in anything important. I've always put questionable oils in small engines or winter beater top-offs.
Great suggestion!
ruclips.net/video/QeNLVUdoBU0/видео.html
At the local Dollar store, u can get a plastic paddle type utinsile used for stirring things in the kitchen, hit the handle with grinder to fit drill, use drill to stir oil/paint. (lower RPMs, the stir utinsile will snap around 2000RPMs😂)