I worked in oil refineries and fuel storage terminals for years and I can confirm this. The "Top tier fuel" companies like Chevron use their own proprietary additives. They are stored in tanks separately and are added to the fuel as it's being loaded. (Ask any fuel truck delivery guy) The no name fuels use a minimum baseline generic additive. If you use a top tier gas like Chevron, or Shell, there's no need to use any aftermarket cleaning additives. Some fuel cleaning additives can damage sensitive emission control systems.
All true! I will add that Even with Shell V, when gas goes bad in a vehicle, you should add a Reputable injector/fuel-line cleaner with a tank of completely new fuel. I have several goto's that have performed vehicular necromancy. One is called "Quickshot" by Amsoil. I've used it on naturally aspirated Hondas and Audis to clean fouled injectors etc, and its effect has been nothing short of miraculous. One must follow the instructions To The Letter with these caliber of additves, however. Or else, as you stated, bad things Will happen.
@@ch0wned Have not used Amsoil, yet. But, have used Rislone HyperFuel fuel treatment (bottle has two chambers, one with a PEA and the other with a lubricating oil. It worked awesome! The reason I know it worked was because of how it ran and the oil catch can I have showed black vapor concentrate in it. Usually it is a oil brown.
What about the chevron gas stations buying bulk gasoline that probably isn't from chevron? I've seen those no name semis dumping gasoline at some chevron gas stations
I’m a BMW technician, so they recommend top tier with these turbocharged, direct injected engine. And I can’t tell you how many cars I’ve seen come in for rough running, and it turns out the problem is they use non-top tier gas. Drain and fill the tank with top tier, and car runs perfectly fine afterwards.
I started filling with cheaper gas when prices shot up a while back. My car started idling and sounded tired running at highway speeds. I went back to filling Shell. Within the first tank, it started running smoother. After two tanks, the engine idles so smooth, its hard to tell the car is even on. Filling with the right gas makes a significant and noticable difference.
I have a 1995 jaguar that's been my daily driver for several years, it's always had a bit of a rough idle. I have only been using top tier gas the last year or so and the idle has improved a bunch!
Use if available Non oxygenated fuel, 91 or 92 octane, as vehicles get older they seem to like higher octane. Around here in MN non oxygenated is around $4.39 a gallon and has no ethanol in it, older vehicles seals in carburetors don't like ethanol.
@@benjaminlusskin3211 I fill up at Costco as well, here in Edmonton, Alberta. I have been wondering the same thing. Hope we get an answer to that question.
@6:50 Bought an 88 Camaro last year with oil that reeked of fuel- as noted in the video, multiple leaking fuel injectors (along with a torn pressure regulator diaphragm) had been dumping gas in the crankcase. Hot starts were very hard and exhaust had a very strong gas smell and VERY smoky. No idea how long it had gone or how much damage had been done (this is a pretty ragged car), but never too late to try and mitigate damage to piston rings, surfaces, bearings, etc. by addressing the fuel system and using top-tier fuels and quality engine oils!
The torn fuel press regulator diaphragm was the source of virtually all your problems. I'm surprised it even ran with it flooding the intake with unmetered raw fuel.
Really appreciate this video. You’re 100% right, run a top tier fuel and supplement with a quality fuel additive, like Gumout with PEA based Carbon Clear, to keep your injectors and intake valves operating as intended.
The Gumout Complete fuel additive works really well. We’ve seen a decrease in fuel dilution in used oil samples when a customer started using that product.
When I was hauling/delivering fuel, Chevron had its own loading rack with extra steps included in pre-filtering the gasoline. Typically gasoline is pretty dirty when coming straight out of the tanker, especially if the truck hauler ‘Transmix’ prior to that load. So filters are the pump are necessary.
Thanks for the video. Appreciate the info and will read that AAA article for sure. As a auto technician and an parts inventory specialist for a company, I can testify for sure we are seeing a constant issue developing with DI engines. They are either being torn down to be repaired for fuel delivery issues or they are replaced as an entire assembly because the fuel injection service isn't resolving the issue at hand. Of course this isn't the only factor as there are mechanical issues as well. The amount of on-the-shelve replacement engine parts for rebuild is quite extensive. Currently, there is an issue with Honda's turbocharged engines. There have been numerous reports about oil/ fuel dillution while displaying the oil level to register higher then normal on the dipstick after 3,000 miles . It's quite possible that the actions from the turbocharger coupled to the DI setup may be causing a incomplete combustion process allowing the fuel to be unburned properly and allow the fuel to bypass the rings and end up in the crankcase. It is quite worrisome as some of my customers have DI vehicles and I have recommended my customers to stay at the 3000 mile oil change interval instead of what some of the manufactures recommend which is anywhere from 5 to 7,500k. Many dealerships are now stocking more BG fuel injection kits as part of a complete fuel injection cleaning service. I think what needs to be advised to owners who own DI vehicles to use high quality fuels with detergents. However, I'm not sure what would be considered the long term resolution for the fuel delivery is no longer being sprayed on the intake valves as what older FI engines use to be.
Yeah DI def has its shortcomings in the valves department. Can't get fuel on those valves to clean them as in dual injection vehicles. Definitely have to stay on top of maintenance on these cars, especially the turbo ones. If you're saying the Hondas are getting so much fuel dilution, only a matter of time before that really takes premature wear on the internals and even the turbo. That's why I don't bother with turbo Di cars for a long term car.
Appreciate your comment. After just replacing the fuel injectors (out of warranty....) on my wife's 2017 CR-V, we are slashing the oil change interval to 3000 miles until we get enough data from Blackstone to consider extending.
Not a problem. I learned this past summer my sister in law had also her fuel injectors replaced on her 2017 Honda CRV as well. However, they were under warranty. So I kinda question why your weren't? Was the coverage based on milage or the terms of ownership? Fyi: I learned from a GM source that any new vehicle's warranty coverage from the manufacture starts the moment the vehicle is rolled off the assembly line and not when the vehicle is sold to the customer! This I find is insane and don't understand why this is right. Not sure if this applys to any other manufacturer.
@@carrsllccarrillo6507 good question. we might have gotten hosed; really don't trust this dealership anymore. Any chance your SIL lives in California? They have stronger consumer protection laws; I think 8 years / 80k miles for fuel injectors, mandated by the state.
@@utmichael2008 I reside is in IL. It's highly doubtful the mandates here are as stringent as what California is. So any form of warranty coverage is most likely based on certain conditions that are not implied other then what is stated from the manufacture.
I worked on the gas docks as a youngster the only difference between stations was the package added to the gas tanker after filling up before going to station.
Yeah, but then it gets to the gas station and the filters can be dirty. The tanks can be poorly maintained. It can have slow turnover. There’s definitely a difference to me. Personally Costco is one of the best gas stations and I’ll tell you why because the guy in the corner store selling gas trying to pinch pennies isn’t keeping up the filters in the maintenance the way Costco does. They run their stuff to a standard. It has high turnover, and it’s top-tier she used to be the best however, a lot of the shows nowadays are poorly maintained
Exactly, they use different additive packages. There are however a few top premium fuels, at least here in Germany, where the companies say they have their own refineries for those special fuels (afaik it's both Shell and Aral with their top premium 100 and 102 ROZ fuels).
@@rickski3769 I don't know for sure but I'm guessing BP didn't think paying for the licensing for "Top Tier" designation for worth it to them. It is probably still a quality fuel.
II Called Chrysler Customer Service a while back and their recommendation is to only use Techron Fuel System Cleaner. I'm interested in taking very good care of my current car, my '12 Chrysler 200 Touring convertible with the Pentastar V6 engine. I use the same high quality oil that Chrysler recommends for their modern Hemi engines, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic made from natural gas. My car has lower use because I'm retired so I make sure and change oil twice a year or about every 2,500 miles.🚘
I've been using Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner since my Subaru Forester XT (DIT) reached around 25k and noticed engine performance decreasing or lacking. It turned out that one of my engine's fuel injectors might have been clogged up with carbon deposits using 91 octane Arco gas for about 5 years, used the cleaner, and my SUV runs like new. I know many states vary but in California, most well-known gas stations are supposed to meet or exceed the standard in additives and detergents. That being said my SUV is supposed to run 93 octane, but you can't get any in the state and always check your owner's manual what type of fuel is allowed in your engine. But TBH you should really just care about doing regular car maintenance when you are supposed to which a lot of people don't understand.
The owners manual is lame. X Doesn't really tell a lot more in details other the. Just a few here and there infos on what the vehicle is equip with and how to operate it only. I find more in depth infos on the web then what the owners manual book tells me.
I don't mind doing regular matinee on a car, 30k 60k 90k most of the time 70% of the world is Check Check etc I know the 90K is critical and my sons Acura TSX will be coming up on that one,
@@Moondoggy1941 Also if your idle temps are around 1500-2000 rpm when you start your engine and then after a minute or so if it doesn't drop to around 800 rpm. Check your throttle body and clean it with actual throttle body cleaner. Most rough engine idling and sounds come from a carbon buildup gap between opening/closing the valves. Your car might run smooth as butter like new if you have aggressive idle shakes.
Some of the cheapest fuel I can find is at Costco and it's Top Tier. Washing the intake valve with fuel is more important than Top Tier. You specifically mentioned direct injected engines having problems early. Manufacturers like Toyota are smart enough to also port inject on direct injected designs so that the intake valves are washed with the fuel from the port injectors. Think maybe that's why they have a lot fewer problems than others who use only direct injection? I have several high mileage vehicles that were born long before Top Tier and they have none of these problems but then they aren't direct injected either.
Some of the ford motors like the 3.5 and 2.7 eco boosts are dual injection as well. So smart. Don’t think I’ll ever buy a straight direct injection motor
@@ajmedeiros77 Ford seems to have caught on with this. The problem is that even with the added port injection some of these ecoboost engines are still having problems with intake valve buildup. I'm hoping software changes like spraying a little more through the port injectors will fix this. Ford's naturally aspirated 3.5L is excellent and known for reliability.
Here in my town, the top tier gas gets old because none of the top tier stations ever have cars there due to higher prices. It’s even worse for premium fuel because even less people buy that. Everybody goes to the cheapo stations, so that’s where I go because I know the gas is fresh. I saw a picture on a local shops facebook where they showed a picture of some gas from a Shell station that looked like dirty swamp water in the bottom and you could clearly see separation in the clear glass. Just get gas from a station that looks busy!
We recommend farmers treat their bulk fuel when it is delivered as the cleaning and lubricity additives have shown to be well worth the money in the long run. You can buy a whole lot of fuel conditioner for a $10000 fuel system like a lot of these new big diesels have.
The best gasoline ever was Amoco Supreme. It had it own tanks, lines, piping etc. from refinery to fuel tank truck, Can't find it anymore since BP bought Amoco.
@@markstrickland8736 right wouldn't that be fucking wonderful. Cheapest I've ever seen gas in my life was 50¢ a liter here in Canada at the beginning of the plandemic. Roughly $1.40 USD a gallon once you add exchange rate etc.
Great info! But based off your expertise and data, does Chevron, Shell, or Exxon have the best additive packaging to ensure fuel system longevity in GDI systems?
No..GDI engines need 3,000 miles Oil changes with 0w-20-30-40 Class 4 Syn..Throttle body cleaning every 3,000 miles..The intake valves do not get lubricated with fuel like Port Injection..High Pressure to injection straight into cylinder causes fuel passed rings to crankcase.. Oil dilution effects..Start DIY Methods.......
I just bought a 21 TRD off road. 55k miles. And it runs great. Although I’m sure the previous owner only filled with 87, I always since having the vehicle, used 89-91 mixing between each time I fill up. Whatever carbon build up was there, I’m hoping to clear up. I don’t expect a power difference. But I feel better somewhat knowing I have (Shell) premium, top tier fuel running through my vehicle.
Use ams oil p.i injector cleaner, I ran it in my 09 ls3 with a ton of mileage as a test pig and it made the truck idle so clean.. even better mileage and I left it in 3rd gear to keep the rpm high to clear it out and would go wot and let off a few times for the Italian tune up
I use nothing but shell or Kirkland fuels (Costco) & both are a top tier fuel ! I’ve never had no issues with using either one . I used Lucas compleat fuel injection cleaner . & also tried Red Line fuel injection cleaner. That two are kinda bit pricey but they do work great. I’ve used Chevron’s fuel injection cleaner . Those three are good ones . My take is stick with works .
If you use a top tier gas there's no need to use any cleaning additives. some after market additives can damage sensitive emission control systems. I heard that Costco is using a Chevron additive in their fuel. I heard that from Chevron operators actually.
Being a dirt bike, single 4T owner, I have to say that this channel is the most educational. Most everything in principle applies to 4T dirt bike motors too. I ran Techron in my bike and truck and it’s always kept things running smoothly. Recently Techron’s price doubled, so I tried Lucas Top End Fuel Treatment at half the price. It quickly cleared a plugged pilot in my snowblower. That convinced me it’d do well in the truck and bike. Ding ding, it’s kept those engines running great and I’m confident it’s reducing the unspent fuel in my wet clutch motor.
Car dealers should SUPER emphasize this when a customer buys a car!!!! I put normal gas crap in my engine and learned about it too late with stuck piston rings etc!!!
I never ever use anything except for top tier shell gas in my civic. Once upon a time i used dirty ass liberty fuel and my car ran like absolute trash. Started using shell gas, now runs like a charm, no longer idles weird either. Its shell or mobil for me in a pinch.
I remember seeing a report about gasoline blending. Apparently smaller refineries are permitted by law to mix in industrial solvents and blend it with gasoline to sell it as gasoline. The solvents do not burn cleanly. They leave a lot of deposits on the valves and in the combustion chamber. As well as on oxygen sensors… anyone that knows how to light a log burning fireplace or a log burning campfire knows some wood species do not burn cleanly. And wet wood does not burn cleanly and smokes, a lot leaving creosote in the chimney, increasing the risk of chimney fires… where I live, you are allowed to burn wood outside to roast marshmallows, but it must be inside of a approved container, at least 10 feet from your property line or your house, and here is the kicker The wood must be dry and aged so it does not smoke. You must keep the smoke and the smell on your own property when burning outside… it’s the same with gasoline, gasoline that has industrial solvents, mixed in with octane booster, so that the solvent will actually not pre-ignite, is legal as long as it’s not more than 49% solvent.. you run a higher risk of getting a tank full of garbage gasoline if you buy from a non-big-name station.. if you buy from a fly-by-night, one off gas station, your chances of getting garbage, gas, or through the roof, because they buy from brokers, that’s supply them with gasoline from who knows where. on the other hand, if you buy from a Sunoco or BP or show or gulf gasoline station, they have their own refineries in their own delivery trucks. They do not have to resort to buying gasoline from brokers.
I’ve gotta ask; do you mean to say, that where you live, there’s a statute pertaining to allowable conditions for burning wood that includes specific reference to “roasting marshmallows”? Where do you live?
today, the fuel matters even more than oil, also from experience even the Top tier fuel will yield to deposit on injectors, especially GDI, so you will need to put a good PEA detergent at least every oil change. With even cheap OBD2 readers you can see live fuel trims to experiment.
I think Joe Sr would be proud of what you're making of his company. Does Jr still have any dealings with TS? I run top tier, but still run an occasional cleaner. Last month I went on a road trip and dumped two bottles of redline in the tank (19.3g). It's GDI so it didn't do anything for valves but the injectors are my chief concern.
I buy my feul at Costco and it is top-tier. On occasion, when I know I’m going on a longer trip I will put a couple of bottles of injector cleaner in my tank before filling. I’ve had very good luck with this method of cleaning my injectors. One of my cars is an 99 Honda Accord 3.0 it was giving me a code for the Cadillac converter not performing. I started putting Chevron branded fuel injector cleaner in my tank at every fill up. The code went away, and never came back. I assume that it was a dirty injector, causing unburnt fuel to pass to the exhaust. That Honda Accord has a great engine in it . Even at 180,000 miles it runs terrifically. I’ve always change the oil often with quality oil.
Looking online it shows pretty much every station in my area selling top tier but I can tell a difference in the way my truck runs on a tank from one place vs another
You want as complete a burn as possible so keeping fuel atomized by preventing injector deposits is preventative and it makes sense the top ring will expend less wear due to the oil being diluted with fuel.
so if I was using a normal gas station; use a bottle of cleaner once every few tanks? once every 3000 miles? every tank? if using a very high detergent gasoline (Shell V-Power Nitro+ Premium), a bottle of Chevron Techron might be too much or half dose a tank or two a couple tanks before an oil change? If you have to use a non-top tier fuel out of town, how many tanks before it is wise to add a fuel system treatment? (ex: cross country round trips would 15-30 fillups at random stations) Has Total Seal ever attempted to work with rotary engine seals?
I read that AAA study when it came out and I've been using the top tier Shell every few tanks in my vehicles, even in my Toyota that usually runs cheap 87.
Glad I came across this video! I'm going to look for it now. SIDE NOTE: Seems to me some of the GM engine failures were probably because of bad fuel.... Maybe someone knows more on that.
I can tell (all of) this: if you’re constantly driving your vehicles on the city streets and on just short trips, you are going to have these compounded problems. I’m still surprised when I meet people who say they are trying to keep the mileage low on their vehicles. But what they don’t understand is that those short trips, the engine and transmission are getting WAY MORE wear & tear that way. Your vehicle NEEDS to breath! It breaths much easier when it is on the open road. The engine is actually burning off all of those nasty contaminates. Vehicles that don’t require the premium fuel, will still benefit from use of an occasional mid-grade or premium fill-up followed by a 100 mile plus road trip at a constant rate of about 70 mph. Just think of it like the human body. When you exercise your body, it is exhilarating to the mind, body & soul. Treat your vehicles like that and they will benefit the same way. Feed your body top tier fuels after proper exercise is an enhanced benefit at this point, which means you’re in front of the “8 ball”, so if you’re running top tier branded fuels and you’re driving the way I suggested above, you’re always ahead of the “8 ball. I don’t believe you need a top tier gasoline to achieve this; just an open, dry roadway that allows for a constant, even flow. However, a top tier fuel will enhance the engine’s experience. My oldest car of the family fleet is a 2003 Acura CL Type S with a 6 speed manual attached to a 3.2 liter SOHC V6 engine. I’ve own it as a new purchase since September, 2002. I only have 256,000 miles on it; would have more if I didn’t have other vehicles. But I’ve only ever fed her premium unleaded fuel. And it has plenty of highway miles on it
i have a 2011 cbr150r. I just use cheap premium fuel here in the Philippines, so far after 130,000kms odometer i have zero issues with my engine still runs so smooth and engine all stock even injectors are stock and it did not require single injector cleaning process
Ok im in los angeles ive never seen a top tier fuel pump or gas station that sells it only 91 89 87 that's it ? Many people here will ask what's a top tear gas station ?...
I did the MMO for years in my 3.5 VW Nissan. I believe (hope) it helped w/ lubrication of moving parts, but it didn't noticably clean anything that had deposited previously (per the real mechanic who I took her to for everything past my tool and skill level). 💫
I got burned by using soley E85 with limited use GMC SIERRA. The deposits on the intake valve were as your opening page. Found out later that e85 fuel has limited to no additives. Thinking all along that the ethanol would be clean. Not the case.
I want to run fuel additives every fill up but 3k miles a month is a lot of gas and additives. My old explorer is doing good so far without additives but I don’t run sketchy fuel in it. I might do an experiment on the next oil change of using additives and premium. Thanks for the info!
Interesting video. I wish you would have expanded on how to find, or who has top line premium fuel? Especially when you are on the road and can’t look it up. Also, where can we get non ethanol gas? I ran into some and my mileage went up about 4 mpg!
Since brand new (apart from the fact that I don't know what fuel quality my Canadian Chevrolet dealer put in the tank when I got the car...), my 2022 Chevy Spark 1LT is on Top-Tier gas from Shell or Costco).
As long as you use cylinder cleaner fluids every 5000 miles you’ll be perfectly fine. This advice is related to people that don’t do regular services. The only difference between the shell and Chevron gas and what you get a Walmart is the cleaning products are already in the fuel. That’s it.
Would it be better to use a non ethanol 90 octane fuel and add Tecktron or Seafoam than a top tier 93 octane fuel with ethanol in a car that isn't driven every day?
Great question! First off, don't use Seafoam. Second, the Non-ethanol 90 plus Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner would be an excellent combination for a vehicle that is not a daily driver.
Used to drive a company Mercedes A 220D (diesel). I'd always put BP Ultimate Diesel in, until my employer prohibitted premium fuel use... i could tell performance and range reduce A LOT over time.
I drive 40minutes each week day at 70+mph. How often (miles) should I put in a bottle of PEA additive? It's $10/bottle and I'm getting 8 tanks or more each month so I can't do it every time. I use top teir fuel from Phillips 66 most of the time. I'm around St Louis so I get 4 seasons.
If my owners manual says 87 octane is recommended, but the oil companies like Shell, Mobil , Chevron, Marathon (all top tier last I looked) puts more detergents in the 93 octane fuel than the 87 octane fuel, I looked it up on there websites should I use 93 or at the least put a tankful of 93 in about every 5 or 6 fill ups ?
That depends on your budget, what you're driving, and your typical driving habits. Most say that using higher octane than recommended is a waste of $. If you're driving a car with GDI, a little more detergent is good. If you do short trips and don't stretch out the engine once in awhile, it's more susceptible to carbon deposits. In this case, a bottle of Redline S1-1 every couple months and the good ole occasional Italian tuneup will get you a lot more bang for the buck than 93 octane.
Can you add too much detergent? I've been using shell 93 in addition to a bottle of STP fuel system cleaner every two oil changes. Am I harming anything?
I‘m using 100 Octane in my straight injection engine, which costs me about $2.20 per Litre. I know its expensive, but I would rather keep my car running well instead of getting engine damages because of residues.
Here in germany Ive been running my cars for several decades now with regular fuel from whichever petrol station I came across. Currently Im on my second direct injected petrol. Never had any engine trouble because of fuel. Way back a 1986 500k km Corolla engine died because it ran out of oil. Didnt give me a warning. But that was it. That was the only incident directly involving the engine. Actually the petrol company Aral says that apart from octane boosters all their petrols got the exact same additives. From their 95 Ron regular to Ultimate 102 Ron.
7 дней назад
Here in california not one supplier except for Chevron markets their additive(techron), do you find that interesting? I do... At a ConocoPhillips(76) loading rack an operator told me that ConocoPhillips actually developed the techron additive. If this is true did Chevron buy the marketing rights or the patent and then named it techron. Since no one else markets an additive could it be that techron is also sold under other names for the other brands. The fact no other stations advertise an additive raises alot of questions.
Fuel is an amazing solvent as is .. and from what I understand, no chemicals normal people can buy remove carbon. Wouldn't the real solution be just dont baby your engine all the time ? Only additives that would seem useful is for prolonged fuel storage with gas or extra lubrication for high pressure fuel systems that were not designed for newer fuels that don't lubricate as well and for how dirty it is but that would probably be more filter related
220k on 06' 3.0 Duratec. Dang right...fuel maters. Pulled the lower intake runners to replace the gaskets (seals) and the valves were spotless using Amsoil oil/top end lubricant/P.I cleaner.
And this is why I went back to amsoil. I had no problems before while using amsoil. Switched all over the board and started having issues again. Now back to amsoil. I know it's expensive but it's worth it.
I’ve been using Amsoil for 10 years now, I do regular oil analysis and I do drain intervals that will probably generate a ton of hate here, but even changing my 0w30 SS every 20,000 miles in a 5.7L Hemi that tows, plows and hauls, I’m at 170,000 miles with zero issues and it still burns less than a quart per 10,000 miles! I’m a strong believer.
Most of my mileage is in short in town trips with the engine barely warming up. I always use Top Tier name brand fuel and dump a bottle of Techron in the tank after every oil change at 6 months. No issues at all in 14 years.
add 2 oz of Redline SL-1 or 1 oz of Amsoil PI to every tank. I have come to an understanding that even top tier means nothing for some cars in some conditions , at some gas stations. I use Shell Vpower Nitro plus in my S2000, and still it wasn't "quite enough". Everytime your car is runnign, it is either cleaning or getting dirty. You want the engine to maintain equilibrium of CLEAN. Not just throw in a bottle of PEA every oil change
Do you know what additives contain PolyetherAmine? I've checked many and they either have their own patented name for it, or they don't contain it. I would like to know what I'm buying.
I looked up the MSDS for the Lucas Deep Clean Fuel System Cleaner that I use, and it contains naphtha and polyether amine. 👍 I looked up the Super Tech (which you showed at 6:52) and it contains petroleum distillates, naphtha, and ethylbenzene... no polyether anime. 👎 You guys showing the Super Tech while saying "a good polyether amine fuel additive" certainly suggests that it contains said ingredient, but it doesn't.
Okay, this is an age old question: I have been using pure gasoline in my 1985 Toyota 4runner, I found it get's 22mpg using pure gasoline, no E10 crap. and it sit's on 35's with 5:29 gearing and 22re with 5 speed manual transmission. when I went to E10 one time, I found it got 17mpg. so I stay with pure gasoline. pure gasoline better to use????
I only put pure 93 octane in my scat pack challenger, and the only station that sells pure 93 is a local small gas station that isn’t a big company like shell. Should I keep getting fuel from that station or switch to shell or another big company
Is there a fuel additive i can put in the tank with regular fuel to make it top tier? Or is it more than additives? I know everything will probably say Techron, but is that actually tested and true?
Costco , SHELL and Chevron...Google top tier for your location and then verify by the sticker at your station. Don't believe the station attendant who says it all come from the same place.
What if you live in a part of the country that doesn't sell "top tier" fuel? And I can't afford premium and with my altitude 86 does just fine in my e-86 vehicle. Runs fine but smokes like crazy...?
Late model motors with cylinder direct fuel injectors have issues with elevated intake valve tempratures that cause the fuel and oil deposits to "BOIL" when they hit the HOT! intake valve backside. All those deposits are because there is no longer a "fuel wash" on the backside of the intake valve cooling the intake valve....DI motors will always have build-up problems no matter what the fuel or how many "BOGUS" aftermarket air/oil seperators you put onto your motor. I had a B7 RS4 Audi...Car was a POS! with misfire codes in less than 30K miles because of debris build-up on the intake valves. The solution? Walnut blast the intake ports....Truly a JOKE!
It's mainly for cleaning whatever the fuel touches but direct injection engines won't help since PCV system directs positive pressure and some oil into the intake to burn it off that ain't the fuels fault that's why direct injection only is really stupid it should've been multiport fuel injected
Wasn’t that the 4.2 FSI naturally aspirated V8? Those were/are notorious for having carbon build up in the intake ports, from what I’ve read/heard. If cars are going to have DI, should be mandatory to come with dual injection mode (accompanying port injection) to ward off this carbon issue.
I have told my wife a times. Don't use kroger gas! She does anyway. I always fill with costco top tier. And add cleaner every couple of months. My spark plugs are spot lesss. Engines run smooth as silk..
I worked in oil refineries and fuel storage terminals for years and I can confirm this. The "Top tier fuel" companies like Chevron use their own proprietary additives. They are stored in tanks separately and are added to the fuel as it's being loaded. (Ask any fuel truck delivery guy) The no name fuels use a minimum baseline generic additive.
If you use a top tier gas like Chevron, or Shell, there's no need to use any aftermarket cleaning additives. Some fuel cleaning additives can damage sensitive emission control systems.
All true! I will add that Even with Shell V, when gas goes bad in a vehicle, you should add a Reputable injector/fuel-line cleaner with a tank of completely new fuel. I have several goto's that have performed vehicular necromancy. One is called "Quickshot" by Amsoil. I've used it on naturally aspirated Hondas and Audis to clean fouled injectors etc, and its effect has been nothing short of miraculous. One must follow the instructions To The Letter with these caliber of additves, however. Or else, as you stated, bad things Will happen.
@@ch0wned Have not used Amsoil, yet. But, have used Rislone HyperFuel fuel treatment (bottle has two chambers, one with a PEA and the other with a lubricating oil. It worked awesome! The reason I know it worked was because of how it ran and the oil catch can I have showed black vapor concentrate in it. Usually it is a oil brown.
Techron from Chevron!
Shell vpower costs but all my cars have never had deposits issues or clogged injectors. Perfect Idle
What about the chevron gas stations buying bulk gasoline that probably isn't from chevron? I've seen those no name semis dumping gasoline at some chevron gas stations
I’m a BMW technician, so they recommend top tier with these turbocharged, direct injected engine. And I can’t tell you how many cars I’ve seen come in for rough running, and it turns out the problem is they use non-top tier gas. Drain and fill the tank with top tier, and car runs perfectly fine afterwards.
Exactly! Thanks for sharing!
Since my gas tank is kind of small, i run two tanks of Chevron 91. Tank only holds 9 gallons.
Kind of speaks volumes of the engineering design to begin with
Guys, how often should I use a fuel additive?
@@Hover.Tension, I would suggest every time you change your oil
I Been using top tier since it came out,and Pennzoil synthetic made with natural gas. Clean and cleaner.Thanks great show
Thank you!
This is true for me too. The Pennzoil made from natural gas is a game changer. My engine is so clean inside
I started filling with cheaper gas when prices shot up a while back. My car started idling and sounded tired running at highway speeds. I went back to filling Shell. Within the first tank, it started running smoother. After two tanks, the engine idles so smooth, its hard to tell the car is even on.
Filling with the right gas makes a significant and noticable difference.
Sounded tired? I don’t envy your mechanic 😂
I have a 1995 jaguar that's been my daily driver for several years, it's always had a bit of a rough idle. I have only been using top tier gas the last year or so and the idle has improved a bunch!
Thanks for sharing!
Glad we’ve been able to help your Jaguar run well.
Toss in a bottle or two of Techron injector cleaner. It’s what Chevron uses in there gasolines.
Yeup 98 jaguar xjr switched to shell, been a few months and it does feel better
Use if available Non oxygenated fuel, 91 or 92 octane, as vehicles get older they seem to like higher octane. Around here in MN non oxygenated is around $4.39 a gallon and has no ethanol in it, older vehicles seals in carburetors don't like ethanol.
Lake is the Man, Love his work.
Thanks!
@@TotalSeal So besides Shell and Chevron what other brands are considered "TOP TIER"? Can you tell me anything about Costco gas?
@@benjaminlusskin3211 I fill up at Costco as well, here in Edmonton, Alberta. I have been wondering the same thing. Hope we get an answer to that question.
@@jean-philippeperetti8463 I looked up the web site that lists top tier Gas Companies and Costco is listed!
@@jean-philippeperetti8463Costco, CO-OP and Tempo are Top-tier certified.
@6:50 Bought an 88 Camaro last year with oil that reeked of fuel- as noted in the video, multiple leaking fuel injectors (along with a torn pressure regulator diaphragm) had been dumping gas in the crankcase. Hot starts were very hard and exhaust had a very strong gas smell and VERY smoky.
No idea how long it had gone or how much damage had been done (this is a pretty ragged car), but never too late to try and mitigate damage to piston rings, surfaces, bearings, etc. by addressing the fuel system and using top-tier fuels and quality engine oils!
The torn fuel press regulator diaphragm was the source of virtually all your problems. I'm surprised it even ran with it flooding the intake with unmetered raw fuel.
It’s true top tier and higher tier gas get better MPGs.
Says who ?
Really appreciate this video. You’re 100% right, run a top tier fuel and supplement with a quality fuel additive, like Gumout with PEA based Carbon Clear, to keep your injectors and intake valves operating as intended.
The Gumout Complete fuel additive works really well. We’ve seen a decrease in fuel dilution in used oil samples when a customer started using that product.
I can say with my experience after using Gumout for long past that it i has so far the best fuel additives range in the world
@@edwardpeders9582 Good idea!
@@you_can_fuck_your_own_ass_69 Gumout
Not for the intake valves, obviously
I've started putting chevron gas in my car for about 4 months now and I have noticed the r
Car runs smoother
When I was hauling/delivering fuel, Chevron had its own loading rack with extra steps included in pre-filtering the gasoline. Typically gasoline is pretty dirty when coming straight out of the tanker, especially if the truck hauler ‘Transmix’ prior to that load. So filters are the pump are necessary.
Thanks for the video. Appreciate the info and will read that AAA article for sure. As a auto technician and an parts inventory specialist for a company, I can testify for sure we are seeing a constant issue developing with DI engines. They are either being torn down to be repaired for fuel delivery issues or they are replaced as an entire assembly because the fuel injection service isn't resolving the issue at hand. Of course this isn't the only factor as there are mechanical issues as well. The amount of on-the-shelve replacement engine parts for rebuild is quite extensive. Currently, there is an issue with Honda's turbocharged engines. There have been numerous reports about oil/ fuel dillution while displaying the oil level to register higher then normal on the dipstick after 3,000 miles . It's quite possible that the actions from the turbocharger coupled to the DI setup may be causing a incomplete combustion process allowing the fuel to be unburned properly and allow the fuel to bypass the rings and end up in the crankcase. It is quite worrisome as some of my customers have DI vehicles and I have recommended my customers to stay at the 3000 mile oil change interval instead of what some of the manufactures recommend which is anywhere from 5 to 7,500k.
Many dealerships are now stocking more BG fuel injection kits as part of a complete fuel injection cleaning service.
I think what needs to be advised to owners who own DI vehicles to use high quality fuels with detergents. However, I'm not sure what would be considered the long term resolution for the fuel delivery is no longer being sprayed on the intake valves as what older FI engines use to be.
Yeah DI def has its shortcomings in the valves department. Can't get fuel on those valves to clean them as in dual injection vehicles. Definitely have to stay on top of maintenance on these cars, especially the turbo ones. If you're saying the Hondas are getting so much fuel dilution, only a matter of time before that really takes premature wear on the internals and even the turbo. That's why I don't bother with turbo Di cars for a long term car.
Appreciate your comment. After just replacing the fuel injectors (out of warranty....) on my wife's 2017 CR-V, we are slashing the oil change interval to 3000 miles until we get enough data from Blackstone to consider extending.
Not a problem. I learned this past summer my sister in law had also her fuel injectors replaced on her 2017 Honda CRV as well. However, they were under warranty. So I kinda question why your weren't? Was the coverage based on milage or the terms of ownership?
Fyi: I learned from a GM source that any new vehicle's warranty coverage from the manufacture starts the moment the vehicle is rolled off the assembly line and not when the vehicle is sold to the customer! This I find is insane and don't understand why this is right. Not sure if this applys to any other manufacturer.
@@carrsllccarrillo6507 good question. we might have gotten hosed; really don't trust this dealership anymore. Any chance your SIL lives in California? They have stronger consumer protection laws; I think 8 years / 80k miles for fuel injectors, mandated by the state.
@@utmichael2008 I reside is in IL. It's highly doubtful the mandates here are as stringent as what California is. So any form of warranty coverage is most likely based on certain conditions that are not implied other then what is stated from the manufacture.
Here in lebanon, our fuel quality is questionable. Unfortunately, we aren't offered top tier gas. Plus the octane rating is very low
Dont buy TSI if u have bad fuel
I worked on the gas docks as a youngster the only difference between stations was the package added to the gas tanker after filling up before going to station.
Yeah, but then it gets to the gas station and the filters can be dirty. The tanks can be poorly maintained. It can have slow turnover. There’s definitely a difference to me. Personally Costco is one of the best gas stations and I’ll tell you why because the guy in the corner store selling gas trying to pinch pennies isn’t keeping up the filters in the maintenance the way Costco does. They run their stuff to a standard. It has high turnover, and it’s top-tier she used to be the best however, a lot of the shows nowadays are poorly maintained
Exactly, they use different additive packages. There are however a few top premium fuels, at least here in Germany, where the companies say they have their own refineries for those special fuels (afaik it's both Shell and Aral with their top premium 100 and 102 ROZ fuels).
I find it interesting that BP is no longer a “Top Tier “ designated fuel.
I just found out also... BP no longer top tier.... I am concerned...what do you think ??
@@rickski3769 I don't know for sure but I'm guessing BP didn't think paying for the licensing for "Top Tier" designation for worth it to them. It is probably still a quality fuel.
They stopped paying for the title. 99% of people have no idea or don’t care.
You know who is tho? Arco!
@@stolenhal0 Yes. Here in southern California it's also some of the least expensive gas.
II Called Chrysler Customer Service a while back and their recommendation is to only use Techron Fuel System Cleaner. I'm interested in taking very good care of my current car, my '12 Chrysler 200 Touring convertible with the Pentastar V6 engine. I use the same high quality oil that Chrysler recommends for their modern Hemi engines, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic made from natural gas. My car has lower use because I'm retired so I make sure and change oil twice a year or about every 2,500 miles.🚘
Techron is a PEA based detergent additive.
I’ve driven years putting RaceTrac in my car. Just recently read about Top Tier. Now I’ve switched to Chevron instead.
BP and Shell are the best
@@truelife974BP isn't Top tier
@@jliefer2484BP can be hit or miss away from big cities. Some local fuel distribution points only use minimum additive packages.
I've been using Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner since my Subaru Forester XT (DIT) reached around 25k and noticed engine performance decreasing or lacking. It turned out that one of my engine's fuel injectors might have been clogged up with carbon deposits using 91 octane Arco gas for about 5 years, used the cleaner, and my SUV runs like new. I know many states vary but in California, most well-known gas stations are supposed to meet or exceed the standard in additives and detergents. That being said my SUV is supposed to run 93 octane, but you can't get any in the state and always check your owner's manual what type of fuel is allowed in your engine. But TBH you should really just care about doing regular car maintenance when you are supposed to which a lot of people don't understand.
Thanks for sharing!
The owners manual is lame. X
Doesn't really tell a lot more in details other the. Just a few here and there infos on what the vehicle is equip with and how to operate it only. I find more in depth infos on the web then what the owners manual book tells me.
I don't mind doing regular matinee on a car, 30k 60k 90k most of the time 70% of the world is
Check
Check
etc
I know the 90K is critical and my sons Acura TSX will be coming up on that one,
@@Moondoggy1941 Also if your idle temps are around 1500-2000 rpm when you start your engine and then after a minute or so if it doesn't drop to around 800 rpm. Check your throttle body and clean it with actual throttle body cleaner. Most rough engine idling and sounds come from a carbon buildup gap between opening/closing the valves. Your car might run smooth as butter like new if you have aggressive idle shakes.
Arco has top tier
Having higher detergent not also burn cleaner but more efficiency. This I still believe in. Having more detergent tend to have less water in it.
Some of the cheapest fuel I can find is at Costco and it's Top Tier. Washing the intake valve with fuel is more important than Top Tier. You specifically mentioned direct injected engines having problems early. Manufacturers like Toyota are smart enough to also port inject on direct injected designs so that the intake valves are washed with the fuel from the port injectors. Think maybe that's why they have a lot fewer problems than others who use only direct injection? I have several high mileage vehicles that were born long before Top Tier and they have none of these problems but then they aren't direct injected either.
Absolutely, the combination of port injection and direct injection works extremely well!
Some of the ford motors like the 3.5 and 2.7 eco boosts are dual injection as well. So smart. Don’t think I’ll ever buy a straight direct injection motor
@@ajmedeiros77 Ford seems to have caught on with this. The problem is that even with the added port injection some of these ecoboost engines are still having problems with intake valve buildup. I'm hoping software changes like spraying a little more through the port injectors will fix this. Ford's naturally aspirated 3.5L is excellent and known for reliability.
@@AC_metro Correct...The Toyota 4GR-FSE in the Lexus IS-250 was an unmitigated DISASTER
B58 seems to have fixed this via a redesigned PCV that's better at condensing oil before it reaches to intake.
Here in my town, the top tier gas gets old because none of the top tier stations ever have cars there due to higher prices. It’s even worse for premium fuel because even less people buy that. Everybody goes to the cheapo stations, so that’s where I go because I know the gas is fresh. I saw a picture on a local shops facebook where they showed a picture of some gas from a Shell station that looked like dirty swamp water in the bottom and you could clearly see separation in the clear glass. Just get gas from a station that looks busy!
We recommend farmers treat their bulk fuel when it is delivered as the cleaning and lubricity additives have shown to be well worth the money in the long run. You can buy a whole lot of fuel conditioner for a $10000 fuel system like a lot of these new big diesels have.
Absolutely!!!
The best gasoline ever was Amoco Supreme. It had it own tanks, lines, piping etc. from refinery to fuel tank truck, Can't find it anymore since BP bought Amoco.
I use to run Sunoco 94. But they got bought out and the station I used to use closed out.
I remember the fuel was clear and passed through a filter after leaving the pump.
Called "white gas." I remember when it cost about 35 cents a gallon.
@@markstrickland8736 right wouldn't that be fucking wonderful. Cheapest I've ever seen gas in my life was 50¢ a liter here in Canada at the beginning of the plandemic. Roughly $1.40 USD a gallon once you add exchange rate etc.
Amoco Supreme was the best gas ever for small engines IMHO
What is a good fuel additive? What brand and kind? Thank you so much for any info.
Any PolyEtherAmine based additive will work well, and the Gumout Complete fuel system cleaner is a PEA additive.
Great info! But based off your expertise and data, does Chevron, Shell, or Exxon have the best additive packaging to ensure fuel system longevity in GDI systems?
No..GDI engines need 3,000 miles Oil changes with 0w-20-30-40 Class 4 Syn..Throttle body cleaning every 3,000 miles..The intake valves do not get lubricated with fuel like Port Injection..High Pressure to injection straight into cylinder causes fuel passed rings to crankcase..
Oil dilution effects..Start DIY Methods.......
One if the cheapest gas stations in my area sells Top Tier fuel. It doesnt have to break the bank.
I just bought a 21 TRD off road. 55k miles. And it runs great. Although I’m sure the previous owner only filled with 87, I always since having the vehicle, used 89-91 mixing between each time I fill up. Whatever carbon build up was there, I’m hoping to clear up. I don’t expect a power difference. But I feel better somewhat knowing I have (Shell) premium, top tier fuel running through my vehicle.
Use ams oil p.i injector cleaner, I ran it in my 09 ls3 with a ton of mileage as a test pig and it made the truck idle so clean.. even better mileage and I left it in 3rd gear to keep the rpm high to clear it out and would go wot and let off a few times for the Italian tune up
Thanks for the heads up fuels👍
Any time!
Is PEA the short name for the polyether amine you recommend?
Yes
I use nothing but shell or Kirkland fuels (Costco) & both are a top tier fuel ! I’ve never had no issues with using either one . I used Lucas compleat fuel injection cleaner . & also tried Red Line fuel injection cleaner. That two are kinda bit pricey but they do work great. I’ve used Chevron’s fuel injection cleaner . Those three are good ones . My take is stick with works .
If you use a top tier gas there's no need to use any cleaning additives. some after market additives can damage sensitive emission control systems. I heard that Costco is using a Chevron additive in their fuel. I heard that from Chevron operators actually.
I wished WE had a Costco.😢
I ACTUALLY GOT ON THE INTERNET, to see who sells top tier gasoline. Seems Sunoco does close to me. Price is no concern to me. Pay now, or pay later.👍
Being a dirt bike, single 4T owner, I have to say that this channel is the most educational.
Most everything in principle applies to 4T dirt bike motors too.
I ran Techron in my bike and truck and it’s always kept things running smoothly.
Recently Techron’s price doubled, so I tried Lucas Top End Fuel Treatment at half the price. It quickly cleared a plugged pilot in my snowblower. That convinced me it’d do well in the truck and bike. Ding ding, it’s kept those engines running great and I’m confident it’s reducing the unspent fuel in my wet clutch motor.
Car dealers should SUPER emphasize this when a customer buys a car!!!! I put normal gas crap in my engine and learned about it too late with stuck piston rings etc!!!
Why would they do that? They want the service related revenue or to sell you another car as soon as possible.
I purchased a newer vehicle in August, the dealer recommended i stick with Top Tier gas, kinda surprised me.
@@ericarmbrustmacher2023 What car, what engine?
@@bobreese4807 equinox 1.5 turbo in line 4, 2022 version
Try Valvoline restore and protect oil at least 4 oil changes and it should help with your stuck piston rings.
I never ever use anything except for top tier shell gas in my civic. Once upon a time i used dirty ass liberty fuel and my car ran like absolute trash. Started using shell gas, now runs like a charm, no longer idles weird either. Its shell or mobil for me in a pinch.
I remember seeing a report about gasoline blending. Apparently smaller refineries are permitted by law to mix in industrial solvents and blend it with gasoline to sell it as gasoline. The solvents do not burn cleanly. They leave a lot of deposits on the valves and in the combustion chamber. As well as on oxygen sensors…
anyone that knows how to light a log burning fireplace or a log burning campfire knows some wood species do not burn cleanly. And wet wood does not burn cleanly and smokes, a lot leaving creosote in the chimney, increasing the risk of chimney fires…
where I live, you are allowed to burn wood outside to roast marshmallows, but it must be inside of a approved container, at least 10 feet from your property line or your house, and here is the kicker
The wood must be dry and aged so it does not smoke. You must keep the smoke and the smell on your own property when burning outside…
it’s the same with gasoline, gasoline that has industrial solvents, mixed in with octane booster, so that the solvent will actually not pre-ignite, is legal as long as it’s not more than 49% solvent.. you run a higher risk of getting a tank full of garbage gasoline if you buy from a non-big-name station.. if you buy from a fly-by-night, one off gas station, your chances of getting garbage, gas, or through the roof, because they buy from brokers, that’s supply them with gasoline from who knows where.
on the other hand, if you buy from a Sunoco or BP or show or gulf gasoline station, they have their own refineries in their own delivery trucks. They do not have to resort to buying gasoline from brokers.
I’ve gotta ask; do you mean to say, that where you live, there’s a statute pertaining to allowable conditions for burning wood that includes specific reference to “roasting marshmallows”? Where do you live?
I see so many running generic quick stop mart gas stations around here. The top tier stations, you sometimes have to go out of the way to get.
Thanks for the breakdown on it, and the fuel additives. I purchased a newer vehicle recently, the dealer recommended sticking to top tier fuels.
I Only use Chevron/Texaco 89 octane gas that contains Techron additives In my
Ram 2500 4x4 HEMI, It is Top tier
You did not mention if you are discussing port or direct injection
today, the fuel matters even more than oil, also from experience even the Top tier fuel will yield to deposit on injectors, especially GDI, so you will need to put a good PEA detergent at least every oil change. With even cheap OBD2 readers you can see live fuel trims to experiment.
Right on!
My old van only runs good when I add marvel mystery oil at every fill-up.
I think Joe Sr would be proud of what you're making of his company. Does Jr still have any dealings with TS?
I run top tier, but still run an occasional cleaner. Last month I went on a road trip and dumped two bottles of redline in the tank (19.3g). It's GDI so it didn't do anything for valves but the injectors are my chief concern.
I buy my feul at Costco and it is top-tier. On occasion, when I know I’m going on a longer trip I will put a couple of bottles of injector cleaner in my tank before filling. I’ve had very good luck with this method of cleaning my injectors. One of my cars is an 99 Honda Accord 3.0 it was giving me a code for the Cadillac converter not performing. I started putting Chevron branded fuel injector cleaner in my tank at every fill up. The code went away, and never came back. I assume that it was a dirty injector, causing unburnt fuel to pass to the exhaust. That Honda Accord has a great engine in it . Even at 180,000 miles it runs terrifically. I’ve always change the oil often with quality oil.
The Oil Geek! I didn't realize there was another channel featuring your work! I need list!
Looking online it shows pretty much every station in my area selling top tier but I can tell a difference in the way my truck runs on a tank from one place vs another
Make sure pump has green sticker
Ethanol free gas (wawa) or top tier fuel for a plug-in hybrid car (Chevy volt)?
You want as complete a burn as possible so keeping fuel atomized by preventing injector deposits is preventative and it makes sense the top ring will expend less wear due to the oil being diluted with fuel.
so if I was using a normal gas station; use a bottle of cleaner once every few tanks? once every 3000 miles? every tank?
if using a very high detergent gasoline (Shell V-Power Nitro+ Premium), a bottle of Chevron Techron might be too much or half dose a tank or two a couple tanks before an oil change?
If you have to use a non-top tier fuel out of town, how many tanks before it is wise to add a fuel system treatment? (ex: cross country round trips would 15-30 fillups at random stations)
Has Total Seal ever attempted to work with rotary engine seals?
I read that AAA study when it came out and I've been using the top tier Shell every few tanks in my vehicles, even in my Toyota that usually runs cheap 87.
Thanks for sharing
Glad I came across this video! I'm going to look for it now.
SIDE NOTE: Seems to me some of the GM engine failures were probably because of bad fuel.... Maybe someone knows more on that.
😅😅😅😅😅
I can tell (all of) this: if you’re constantly driving your vehicles on the city streets and on just short trips, you are going to have these compounded problems. I’m still surprised when I meet people who say they are trying to keep the mileage low on their vehicles. But what they don’t understand is that those short trips, the engine and transmission are getting WAY MORE wear & tear that way.
Your vehicle NEEDS to breath! It breaths much easier when it is on the open road. The engine is actually burning off all of those nasty contaminates. Vehicles that don’t require the premium fuel, will still benefit from use of an occasional mid-grade or premium
fill-up followed by a 100 mile plus road trip at a constant rate of about 70 mph. Just think of it like the human body. When you exercise your body, it is exhilarating to the mind, body & soul. Treat your vehicles like that and they will benefit the same way. Feed your body top tier fuels after proper exercise is an enhanced benefit at this point, which means you’re in front of the “8 ball”, so if you’re running top tier branded fuels and you’re driving the way I suggested above, you’re always ahead of the “8 ball.
I don’t believe you need a top tier gasoline to achieve this; just an open, dry roadway that allows for a constant, even flow. However, a top tier fuel will enhance the engine’s experience.
My oldest car of the family fleet is a 2003 Acura CL Type S with a 6 speed manual attached to a 3.2 liter SOHC V6 engine. I’ve own it as a new purchase since September, 2002. I only have 256,000 miles on it; would have more if I didn’t have other vehicles. But I’ve only ever fed her premium unleaded fuel. And it has plenty of highway miles on it
i have a 2011 cbr150r. I just use cheap premium fuel here in the Philippines, so far after 130,000kms odometer i have zero issues with my engine still runs so smooth and engine all stock even injectors are stock and it did not require single injector cleaning process
Top tier 87 octane in my Honda is really good
Ok im in los angeles ive never seen a top tier fuel pump or gas station that sells it only 91 89 87 that's it ? Many people here will ask what's a top tear gas station ?...
Could I just add Marvel Mystery Oil to my gas tank at every fill-up? There aren't any top-tier pumps in my area.
No, Marvel Mystery Oil is not a detergent. You could run Gumout Complete or Techron Complete with every fill up instead.
I did the MMO for years in my 3.5 VW Nissan. I believe (hope) it helped w/ lubrication of moving parts, but it didn't noticably clean anything that had deposited previously (per the real mechanic who I took her to for everything past my tool and skill level). 💫
I got burned by using soley E85 with limited use GMC SIERRA. The deposits on the intake valve were as your opening page. Found out later that e85 fuel has limited to no additives. Thinking all along that the ethanol would be clean. Not the case.
Sorry to hear that, but thanks for sharing your experience.
I want to run fuel additives every fill up but 3k miles a month is a lot of gas and additives. My old explorer is doing good so far without additives but I don’t run sketchy fuel in it. I might do an experiment on the next oil change of using additives and premium. Thanks for the info!
Shell, Chevron, Mobil or Costco.... Which one has the best additives????
Shell
Interesting video. I wish you would have expanded on how to find, or who has top line premium fuel? Especially when you are on the road and can’t look it up.
Also, where can we get non ethanol gas? I ran into some and my mileage went up about 4 mpg!
Here you go... toptiergas.com
Sinclair is top tier right?
Since brand new (apart from the fact that I don't know what fuel quality my Canadian Chevrolet dealer put in the tank when I got the car...), my 2022 Chevy Spark 1LT is on Top-Tier gas from Shell or Costco).
As long as you use cylinder cleaner fluids every 5000 miles you’ll be perfectly fine. This advice is related to people that don’t do regular services. The only difference between the shell and Chevron gas and what you get a Walmart is the cleaning products are already in the fuel. That’s it.
Would it be better to use a non ethanol 90 octane fuel and add Tecktron or Seafoam than a top tier 93 octane fuel with ethanol in a car that isn't driven every day?
Great question! First off, don't use Seafoam. Second, the Non-ethanol 90 plus Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner would be an excellent combination for a vehicle that is not a daily driver.
How do you know the " Quick Stop" store with Shell signs is actually buying Top Tier fuel to resell?
This was really interesting and informative for me. Thanks
Used to drive a company Mercedes A 220D (diesel). I'd always put BP Ultimate Diesel in, until my employer prohibitted premium fuel use... i could tell performance and range reduce A LOT over time.
Where do the offbrand gas stations get their fuel from?
From same refineries, it is just that don't have additives included
Lake is sharing the best info!
Well gov should demand any and every fuel sold to be at Top Tier Fuel Level of detergency!
So what is the best fuel system cleaner that you would recommend using?
What about Sinclair fuels do they have good fuel?
no
I only use she'll with my camaro.
I drive 40minutes each week day at 70+mph. How often (miles) should I put in a bottle of PEA additive? It's $10/bottle and I'm getting 8 tanks or more each month so I can't do it every time. I use top teir fuel from Phillips 66 most of the time. I'm around St Louis so I get 4 seasons.
If my owners manual says 87 octane is recommended, but the oil companies like Shell, Mobil , Chevron, Marathon (all top tier last I looked) puts more detergents in the 93 octane fuel than the 87 octane fuel, I looked it up on there websites should I use 93 or at the least put a tankful of 93 in about every 5 or 6 fill ups ?
That depends on your budget, what you're driving, and your typical driving habits. Most say that using higher octane than recommended is a waste of $. If you're driving a car with GDI, a little more detergent is good.
If you do short trips and don't stretch out the engine once in awhile, it's more susceptible to carbon deposits. In this case, a bottle of Redline S1-1 every couple months and the good ole occasional Italian tuneup will get you a lot more bang for the buck than 93 octane.
Can you add too much detergent? I've been using shell 93 in addition to a bottle of STP fuel system cleaner every two oil changes. Am I harming anything?
No harm to the engine.
I‘m using 100 Octane in my straight injection engine, which costs me about $2.20 per Litre. I know its expensive, but I would rather keep my car running well instead of getting engine damages because of residues.
Here in germany Ive been running my cars for several decades now with regular fuel from whichever petrol station I came across. Currently Im on my second direct injected petrol. Never had any engine trouble because of fuel. Way back a 1986 500k km Corolla engine died because it ran out of oil. Didnt give me a warning. But that was it. That was the only incident directly involving the engine. Actually the petrol company Aral says that apart from octane boosters all their petrols got the exact same additives. From their 95 Ron regular to Ultimate 102 Ron.
Here in california not one supplier except for Chevron markets their additive(techron), do you find that interesting? I do...
At a ConocoPhillips(76) loading rack an operator told me that ConocoPhillips actually developed the techron additive. If this is true did Chevron buy the marketing rights or the patent and then named it techron. Since no one else markets an additive could it be that techron is also sold under other names for the other brands. The fact no other stations advertise an additive raises alot of questions.
Always learning something from these videos. Which fuel additive brand do you recommend?
Chevron Techron Complete or Gumout All-In-One
@@TotalSeal... Thank you very much.
Redline is a great product.
So it looks like pretty much all name brand gas stations are top tier?? Thanks for the videos!!
No. Not all all. Just do a search for top tier fuel. There’s a website that lists all fuel brands that are top tier.
I my area, Race Track, Kroger, Sams Club and Walmart, do not sell Top Tier Gasoline
@@horatiop818all of those are trash
Fuel is an amazing solvent as is .. and from what I understand, no chemicals normal people can buy remove carbon. Wouldn't the real solution be just dont baby your engine all the time ? Only additives that would seem useful is for prolonged fuel storage with gas or extra lubrication for high pressure fuel systems that were not designed for newer fuels that don't lubricate as well and for how dirty it is but that would probably be more filter related
220k on 06' 3.0 Duratec. Dang right...fuel maters. Pulled the lower intake runners to replace the gaskets (seals) and the valves were spotless using Amsoil oil/top end lubricant/P.I cleaner.
And this is why I went back to amsoil. I had no problems before while using amsoil. Switched all over the board and started having issues again. Now back to amsoil. I know it's expensive but it's worth it.
I’ve been using Amsoil for 10 years now, I do regular oil analysis and I do drain intervals that will probably generate a ton of hate here, but even changing my 0w30 SS every 20,000 miles in a 5.7L Hemi that tows, plows and hauls, I’m at 170,000 miles with zero issues and it still burns less than a quart per 10,000 miles! I’m a strong believer.
Thank you for your time. Well done, video... i was right since 1990 about fuel quality ...
How much does top tier fuel do for DI engines. ?
Most of my mileage is in short in town trips with the engine barely warming up. I always use Top Tier name brand fuel and dump a bottle of Techron in the tank after every oil change at 6 months. No issues at all in 14 years.
That’s a great practice!
@@TotalSeal what do you qualify as engine warming up? When the radiator fans turn on?
add 2 oz of Redline SL-1 or 1 oz of Amsoil PI to every tank. I have come to an understanding that even top tier means nothing for some cars in some conditions , at some gas stations. I use Shell Vpower Nitro plus in my S2000, and still it wasn't "quite enough".
Everytime your car is runnign, it is either cleaning or getting dirty. You want the engine to maintain equilibrium of CLEAN. Not just throw in a bottle of PEA every oil change
How did you know that it wasn't quite enough?
@@DaveSimkus he didn't. Guesswork
Do you know what additives contain PolyetherAmine? I've checked many and they either have their own patented name for it, or they don't contain it. I would like to know what I'm buying.
The Gumout All-In-One fuel system cleaner and Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner both contain PolyEthe Amine.
@@TotalSeal : Thank you!!
BG additives also. BG is great stuff
3:50 5:02 7:08 Polyetheramine (fuel additive).
How does E85 compare to top tier?
And is there a top tier e85?
I looked up the MSDS for the Lucas Deep Clean Fuel System Cleaner that I use, and it contains naphtha and polyether amine. 👍
I looked up the Super Tech (which you showed at 6:52) and it contains petroleum distillates, naphtha, and ethylbenzene... no polyether anime. 👎
You guys showing the Super Tech while saying "a good polyether amine fuel additive" certainly suggests that it contains said ingredient, but it doesn't.
Okay, this is an age old question: I have been using pure gasoline in my 1985 Toyota 4runner, I found it get's 22mpg using pure gasoline, no E10 crap. and it sit's on 35's with 5:29 gearing and 22re with 5 speed manual transmission. when I went to E10 one time, I found it got 17mpg. so I stay with pure gasoline. pure gasoline better to use????
yes it is, also keeps the engine cleaner. ethanol is awful and only helps feds and corn farmers
So which gas is considered Top Tier fuel???
Go to toptiergas.com/licensed-brands/
I only put pure 93 octane in my scat pack challenger, and the only station that sells pure 93 is a local small gas station that isn’t a big company like shell. Should I keep getting fuel from that station or switch to shell or another big company
Is there a fuel additive i can put in the tank with regular fuel to make it top tier? Or is it more than additives? I know everything will probably say Techron, but is that actually tested and true?
Are there any 87 octane fuel that is top tier? If yes, which brand?
Costco , SHELL and Chevron...Google top tier for your location and then verify by the sticker at your station. Don't believe the station attendant who says it all come from the same place.
@@bobreese4807 Thank you, great to know.
What if you live in a part of the country that doesn't sell "top tier" fuel? And I can't afford premium and with my altitude 86 does just fine in my e-86 vehicle. Runs fine but smokes like crazy...?
Late model motors with cylinder direct fuel injectors have issues with elevated intake valve tempratures that cause the fuel and oil deposits to "BOIL" when they hit the HOT! intake valve backside. All those deposits are because there is no longer a "fuel wash" on the backside of the intake valve cooling the intake valve....DI motors will always have build-up problems no matter what the fuel or how many "BOGUS" aftermarket air/oil seperators you put onto your motor. I had a B7 RS4 Audi...Car was a POS! with misfire codes in less than 30K miles because of debris build-up on the intake valves. The solution? Walnut blast the intake ports....Truly a JOKE!
DI engines are a problem in regards to valve deposits.
First mistake was buying an Audi . Second was not ditching it
@@TotalSeal meth injection is prob the best thing for DI
It's mainly for cleaning whatever the fuel touches but direct injection engines won't help since PCV system directs positive pressure and some oil into the intake to burn it off that ain't the fuels fault that's why direct injection only is really stupid it should've been multiport fuel injected
Wasn’t that the 4.2 FSI naturally aspirated V8? Those were/are notorious for having carbon build up in the intake ports, from what I’ve read/heard. If cars are going to have DI, should be mandatory to come with dual injection mode (accompanying port injection) to ward off this carbon issue.
The fuel is only as good as the the cleanliness of the truck that delivers it and the tank it is dropped in
I have told my wife a times. Don't use kroger gas! She does anyway. I always fill with costco top tier. And add cleaner every couple of months. My spark plugs are spot lesss. Engines run smooth as silk..
I always use 93, Shell Vpower
😉👍