How To Choose The Right Viscosity Motor Oil - A Certified Lubrication Specialist Explains
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- Viscosity is the the most important property in a motor oil, but did you know that viscosity changes with temperature? Also, the ideal choice in viscosity for an engine is dependent on factors such as bearing clearance and oil ring tension. In this video, Certified Lubrication Specialist Lake Speed Jr explains how to choose the correct viscosity for your engine.
Like many things, too much viscosity or too little viscosity results in problems. The chart presented in this video gives you the tools to make the right choice.
For the viscosity chart: drivenracingoi...
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For more about Tribology and Lake Speed Jr: • Episode 026 | Piston...
For how to choose the correct break-in oil: • ☑️ Do’s & Don’ts ⛔️ of...
#RacingEngine #CylinderBore #CylinderHoning #PistonRings #Enginetechnology #horsepower #engine #motoroil
After 50 years of doing it myself, I finally seriously researched motor oil. I came to the shocking realization that I could have used nothing but 10W-30 in every vehicle I have ever owned from the early 70s till today. In several of them, the recommended viscosity was 5W-30. However, in the fine print it always said you could use 10W-30 if the temperature never went below 0 Fahrenheit. So there.
10w30 is excellent...stable, and low noack.
You can use 100w-20 if you'll never let your car in winter Temps but there's no advantage to that instead of just buy 0w
@@jason200912 I have never owned a vehicle where the recommended oil was 5W-20 or 0W-20. If it was the recommendation, I would use it. With the ones where 5W-30 was recommended, the fine print said you could use 10W-30 if the temperature did not go below zero F. I could have used nothing but 10W-30 in every vehicle I ever owned with a cast iron American engine.
The point is, I could have used one oil all my life, never debated, discussed or researched the topic and been no worse off. But I like to research. Almost anything.
@@anonymike8280what's the purpose of oil logistics for you though because the oil additives degrades overtime and you should only buy it when you're ready to do the oil change
2016 Kia Rio. Says 5W-20 on oil filler cap. Manual says you can also use 5W-30, or if it never goes below zero 10W-30.
Thanks for the great video. One thing to keep in mind, fuel dilution changes the viscosity requirement for pedestrian gas cars too. We can choose an oil that provides adequate MOFT under 100% of normal operating situations, but when driving around town, fuel can accumulate in the oil. Follow this up by a blast down the road at high speed, some towing, or a track day without enough time to evaporate the fuel, and bearing failure can be the result. The Audi supercharged V6 is well known for this.
Great point!
There is more than fuel dilution at work here. A 5W 30 oil is a 5 weight oil.cold with viscosity improvers to make it act like a 30 weight oil when it is hot. Operating in the tight clearances of a running engine a couple of other things that happen beyond fuel dilution are shear back whereby those viscosity improvers get broken. Think of them kind of like tiny bits of thread that get torn in half, so now your hot oil behaves more like a 25 or 20 when hot. Another thing that happens is boil off. Petroleum is a compendium of molecules with different boiling points. When you get the oil well warmed up the light ends vapourize and get carried out in the PCV system. Now your 5 oil becomes 8 or 10 when cold.
Synthetic oils do not have the range of molecules petroleum oils do and can be engineered for qualities the designers want. Thus they do not have the same light end boiloff or the shearback. Synthetics generally have premium additive packages in them that prevent shear better.
Like the old Fram filters ad, pay me now or pay me later. You generally get what you pay for, so if you pay for cheap shit, you get cheap shit.
@@daledavies2334 speaking of PCV , I wish people would change their friggin pcv valves! Some cars should have them changed as early as 30,000 miles. Then on another topic, I also wish folks would do their transmission fluid at regular intervals. Today's small DI turbo engines with a CVT is so easy to do, you should really be doing it atleast once a year. Or at a minimum of every 30,000 miles.
@@daledavies2334 THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! So many people nowadays think that a multi-vis oil is the hot number - ie 5W 30 is the same thing as SAE 30 - and will argue and even want to fight you over that. I was beginning to think I was the only one still alive who knows what Multi-grade oil is.
@@vermontvermont9292 They insist on waiting for the trans to start slipping, and by then it is often too late. The damage has been done, and the death spiral has started.
Finally! Someone with the intelligence to note that the oil viscosity is related to bearing clearance and temperature. Seen too many videos out there that completely ignore bearing clearance. They just make pretty videos about watching oil flow down a tube... Makes me wonder how many dead engines are out there due to incomplete "advice"...
I have a 2018 Camry V6 (the current generation) and I live in a mostly hot climate all year round. The dealer recommended me to use 5w30 and if I wanted to go for 10w40 (which they used on my car when I didn’t know better lol) there wouldn’t be a problem. Toyota engines can accept wider range of oil viscosity. I was shocked when I found out that US spec Toyota models use 0w20 oil. I have been using 5w30 full synthetic and for years and no problems whatsoever. 0w20 is too thin for that engine in my opinion.
That 0w20 is from our corrupt government wanting .1 more mpg. Some folks say it's because the tolerances are tighter on new cars, but the same car is using 20w50 in Austrailia. And if you freeze 0w20, it flows like SAE90, destroying to tighter tolerances myth.
For sure, 20 weight is not fit for a hot climate. I drive between Orlando and Miami all year round, no way I would ever put a 0w-20 in my Toyota. As usual what works in some nerds lab does not hold up in the real world. I ran my V-8 Chevy in Houston TX on 10w-40, got over 189K miles and finally dumped it because too many other things went bad, the engine was still running fine.
You can go safely with 0w20 on Toyota engine. The engine is so tight and precise, with minimal bearing clearance that a thicker oil will increase gas consumption and won't allow for proper lubrication. If you use thicker oil, it might take years but you can damage your engine. One of my neighbours was a cab driver and his Camry was way above 600.000km without problems using Toyota recommend oil. Here in the winter, temperatures is 6c and summer 30-35cFor Toyota engines go thin oil
For some odd reason... I was wishing mr T could have popped into this video just to say "jibber-jabber" just one time. But there are a few nuggets worth our time.
LOL
I agree. I never got the 'point' being made. Too much zig-zag .
@@rondail5675 and what’s with the sin-a-stoke number… These guys totally lose me when they talk Like that, and don’t explain it, as not everyone eats , drinks and sleeps motor oil (two thumbs down.)
Excellent video! I’ve never seen a chart that gives you a baseline for where to start with bearing clearances. I want to build a road race 454 LS7, and now I can have an intelligent talk with my engine builder. I’d like to run 0W-40 on the road course at an oil temperature greater than 212°F and still have adequate oil pressure at 7000 RPM. Hopefully going with the gas-ported, gapless 1mm, 1mm, 2mm ring package! Thanks for educating the track rats and gearheads out there!
We are happy to help! The gas ported top rings are awesome, and the 0W-40 should be a solid option with bearing clearances between .002 and .0025
@DimosTs192 dodge specificies a 0w40 for all their scat packs aka 6.4l Hemi, so at least at start up I cant imagine they would spec an oil leading to wear under warranty...in fact other oils will void it....
I run a 5w50 in a 7600rpm LS7 build get about 75psi hot at shift....
The gen 3 boosted coyote calls for 5w50 it would see 90psi at 8000rpm shifts well 7850
@@DimoS...does the w stand for weight or winter ?
@@speedfreak8200winter
@@speedfreak8200winter
I use what my car manufacturer recommends in the winter and put in a slightly thicker oil in the summer. Most of all, I pay attention to the night time temps. I want the thinner oil in there for cold nights. When it never gets below freezing at night, only then will I put in my summer oil. You want the oil flowing freely at start up...always.
All multi-grade will flow freely at start-up. It is SINGLE-GRADE that may not.
5w should work unless you see -30+
@@AntilleanConfederationat that temp, even 0W oils may take a little bit to get up to the valve train upon startup.
@@carlovanrijk4039 exactly
@jamesbosworth4191 back in the day, my Dad was having trouble starting his 6.2 diesel ⛽️ on colder days (n.w.corner of Oregon) I switched from his straight 30 to a multi viscosity... problem solved
Great video. Interesting how important the 40c viscosity is.
In many climates it’s the viscosity change of the oil from say 10c or 20c to 100c that is so relevant.
I switched my '16 Corolla to 5w30 from 0w20 at 200K miles. Now, I don't have to add a quart to quart and a half every 5K miles, my car is quieter, and the efficiency is the same for me. Owner's manuals in other countries list MULTIPLE grades for the exact same engines. This "0w20 only" nonsense is only a sop to the EPA/Feds, and I love that people refuse to accept this as per their programming.
5w30 should be ok for extreme cold temperatures right???
Be sure to use a PEA (techron is one) fuel additive to keep those piston rings clean. Biggest prob with those low tension rings is fuel dilution of oil after the rings get sludge/carbon on them. Fuel mixed with your oil takes that viscosity way down. Big time wear.
EPA is screwing Americans - full corruption.
Never had to top up engine oil before.
@@ivanhamlyn Look at an online viscosity chart. You say Extreme, I'm thinking 0c, you should be running 0w20 or 0w30.
@@MyerShift7 I went with 0w30
Love your work mr Speed Jr . As you chaps say” awsum “. Together with all these other boffins you introduce , this is just the best fun. Thank you to Stapleton 42 for helping me finds you guys. Keep it gannin lads✌
Glad you enjoy it!
Stapleton lead me here also
Working in a large fleet operation, 200 units, cars, SUVs, trucks from class 3 to class 8, I observed 1st hand the effects of 0- 5, 5-20
Each vehicle that the manufacturer recommends
super light weight oils had knocks, rattles, changing to 10-30 stopped it all.
Our fleet was made up of GM, Dodge, Ford, gas, and diesel engine cars and trucks in Colorado.
Managing a fleet you get see the effects even before the manufacturer does.
Isn't the purpose of low viscosity oil all about better fuel economy ?
@@speedfreak8200 At the expense of engine life.
@@jamesbosworth4191 only for American junk. I had a 2012 Camry that I put 217,000 miles on using 0W 20 oil. Never burned oil between 10,000 mile oil changes and no knock or engine problems of any sort whatsoever.
@@markkauffman6184They didn't advertise 10,000 mile oil change intervals in 2012. Also, lots of people have told me in a bragging way that they hardly every change their oil, yet their engines is "perfect". Well, it does start, and it does move the vehicle forward, but perfect??? Pounding like a blacksmith making horseshoes is hardly "perfect".
@@jamesbosworth4191 actually in the owners manual it did say you could go 10,000 miles under normal driving conditions. I did a lot of highway driving and so it fell into that normal driving conditions. My engine did not burn any oil and when I looked inside valve cover, there was zero varnish, all you saw was gray metal. The only reason I sold it was it was starting to rust - and in the rust belt that is the kiss of death.
Good video. One has to remember that with miles come wear, the clearances will get bigger thus less resistance for the oil. With higher milage you will have too use a thicker oil.
High mileage oil
@@matt4398 Only for leaks. I've read High Mileage will cause rubber seals to expand...
We need to figure out an oil and filter package for our sprint car motors over the off season. Love your content. ❤
Thank you!
One additional point, when using piston squirters, distributor gear squirters or in engines that have other forms or devices or wear that can result in oil pressure/flow escapes, (leaking timing chain tensioners or slightly worn oil pump are a good example on an older engine) The use of ultra low viscosity oil can result in zero flow to distant components. It's not that the parts need more viscosity, it's that the system as designed or operated can't provide adequate flow, often during very low RPM conditions. This is why we sometimes see the farthest cam bearing cap wiped-out first. And why a move to a more viscous oil is a viable solution.
For the new wrx's, Subaru recommends 5W-30 in the Canadian owner's manual and 0w 20 in the US owner's manual. It has to do with EPA requirements in the usa.
This^ Ford does it too. US vehicles are being destroyed by the EPA
CAFE in the USA.
I guess this is the problem. What are you optimising for? If it is only fuel economy, you are going to use thinner oils with some degradation of durability to maximise fuel economy.
If the standards talked about the total energy required to build a car, then maybe you might prioritise durability a little higher.
This seems backwards, as Canada is colder than US and therefore would be better to have thinner oil.
@@bakemonking Yep. I checked the known bearing clearances for my BRZ and 0W-20 was correct for most people, except high temperature racing.
However using the charts, a turbocharged engine with the same bearing clearances should be running 5W-30 or 10W-30. Definitely for fuel economy or US CAFE.
FINALLY! There had to be one of those charts somewhere.
Thanks! We are glad to help.
Many years ago I ran two different oils to test on a very hobby level, but there was almost 40 degrees *C oil temperature difference, one was Semi-Synthetic maybe 15-40 or 10-40, the other was Full Synthetic maybe 5-30. It is a long time ago, but I was impressed at the difference, it was also two different brands, so many changes. But one of them was around 95*C and the other around 135*C at full warm somewhat "hard driving" on the street, not on track.
What oil was best for the motor I would guess the one that kept the heat the lowest. As long as the pistons also were cooler, and not just the oil.. Hmm.. I guess above 100*C would be nice for some water evaporation though.
But what actually made me comment here, was the Cylinder head, just a random Olds head on the table.
Thanks!
Which oil run hotter for your experience?
@@BoredGeese In my experience fully synthethic runs cooler if you check the oil temp gauge, if it is because that oil transport more heat away from the other materials, bearings, pistons etc. or absorbs less heat than mineral oil I do not know, I only get more questions thinking about it than answers.
But if the synthethic has less wear than mineral oil, I guess part of the lower temperature is because there is less friction, less wear and less temperature because of that. But maybe it is cooler because it is more effective at transfering more heat away instead? And is that because of the more uniform size of the synthetic oil molecules or because of more/better additives? I do not know. But too hot oil is not good atleast, but then, what is too hot oil? What is the limit?
Simple.!! If u live where it's cold use a thinner oil. If u live where it's hot use a thicker oil. Change your oil every 5 thousand miles.
I have a 2013 Ford Edge 3.5 cyclone engine at the current time I'm running 5W-20 Mobil 1 AF synthetic, I know that was recommended strictly for CAFE here in the US, because in other countries, they recommend 5W-30. I know that engine is not hard on oil, I have a 120000 on it right now, I've already had the water pump replaced, along with the timing chain, tensioners, guides and oil pump. Would you recommend going to a 5W-30? Stay with this oil?
Thank you for your help
I don’t know if that is going to help you but one my friends at my previous work used to have a Mazda CX9 with the same engine as your Ford Edge. He clocked at over 400 thousand kilometres (250k miles plus) using 5w20 oil and didn’t have any issues engine wise. Aside from charging the water pump obviously.
Won’t hurt a thing.
Thin oil is ok for winter months, but 5w-30 or 40 makes more sense in warm weather. Has stronger film on bearings and lowers blow-by.
Ford recommends 5w-20 for my Coyote 5.0 f150. But one thing I noticed is that most 5w-20 evaporative characteristics is what is giving the 5.0 a reputation for high oil consumption. By simply going to 5w-30 I noticed my Oil Catch can had less oil in it and my oil level was better between oil changes. OE recommendations isn’t always the best.
Same 5w30
That's because, today, oil viscosity recommendations are partly based on gas mileage, rather than engine life.
@@jamesbosworth4191true… it’s about making money too
@@jamesbosworth4191 Entirely actually. Its a numbers game and longevity pays out exactly 0 dollars.
Yeah, I switched to 5w-30 at around 70k miles. I was researching and came to the conclusion 5w-30 was best for my vehicle. I had no idea that there were quite a few F-150 owners who did the same, as I wasn’t specifically searching based on the F-150, just location and the pros and cons of 5w-20 vs 5w-30.
It started with my diff fluid/gear oil. Went with a slightly thicker viscosity for better protection. Sure, MPGs takes a slight hit, but I don’t think the majority of us got a truck for it’s spectacular MPGs. It was even recommended by most Ford YT mechanics to go with a thicker gear oil in the diff vs what Ford recommends.
I keep looking through these hoping to see Lake Speed Sr show up. I miss the glory days of NASCAR.
I run 5/30 in my wife's Chrysler and 0/20 in my Alfa, just as the manufacturer recommends. No problems and we run them long and hard on trips (300+ miles between stops @80mph).
What's the outside temp when using the 0w20. I'm not a fan of light oil in hot climates...
@@lonniebeal6032 Freezing or boiling. There's no other recommendation. It seems to work fine. The engine temps never go above 192 and it doesn't use oil...about 1 qt every 10K miles.
Please help this conundrum..... "hotter oil gets thinner"...as a general rule, yet for multi-grade oils like 5W-30.....the base oil is 5 weight to allow better flow at low temps, but with its viscisity improvers it acts like a heavier 30 weight oil when at higher operating temps. In this arguement, the oil is thicker as it warms. Can you offer guidance on this apparent contradiction..... for better understanding?
Watch this video: ruclips.net/video/48pviPLgaPQ/видео.htmlsi=2PD023A8q9MJDFMN
@@TotalSeal ....I fully understand W is for "Winter" and not "Weight", but presenting the question this way helps for presenting the question. I viewed the details of the vid but it goes into arcane testing details and doesn't really address the core question. Let try this way---> a 5W-30 oil acts as a "5" ( lower viscosity) oil to help cold-weather flow....yet it acts as a "30" ( higher viscosity) oil, when warmed up...like a straight "30" oil...all done by using additives and viscosity improvers. A "30" oil will flow with more resistance through passages than a "5" oil.....like it was "thicker". Yet the common convention says oil get thinner when hotter. Can someone distill down the core thinking behind this ??????
Let's explain in a simple way. Oil thins out in higher temp, that's a fact. Imagine single grade oil at sae 5, it will have a viscosity of let's say 60cSt @ 40°C and 3cSt @ 100°C. Another single grade oil at sae 30 will have a visc of let's say 90cSt @ 40°C and 10cSt @ 100°C. The sae 5 oil is what you need during a cold start but at normal operating temp that oil will be too thin. In contrast, the sae 30 oil is too thick during cold start although it is at good visc for normal operating temp. This is where 5w30 multigrade oil comes in. It has sae 5 visc grade at low temp and has sae 30 visc grade at high temp i.e. 60cSt @ 40°C and 10cSt @ 100°C.
I rounded cSt values to nearest integers for easier understanding.
@@1_D333....I guess that is what I was angling for....a (say) 5W-30 is basically 5 weight "core" oil.....with lots of viscosity improvers to allow it to behave like a 30 weight when "warmed".
@@TheWilferchbut don't forget that oil gets thinner when temp raises. Now you can google "oil viscosity graph" where Y-axis is visc (cSt) n X-axis is temp. You'll notice what I mean. And multigrade oil is just a crossing line of two single grade oils which otherwise parallel to each other.
I live in a hot climate all year round, during the day the temperature can rise to 40-45 degrees Celsius. I used 5w30, now I want to switch to 10w40 or 15w40 did I decide correctly? Toyota 1NZFE engine
Truly my dream job. U should do some testinging on shaeffers and its moly addative. I’m sure u kno about it but videos would be cool showing how and why it works. As far as incredible luberication and capability’s. Iv seen night and day diff in temps, line pressure, mileage, breakdown etc, hope to see some vids
Great suggestion!
1:09 is what you guys are looking for. Use this chart and find out what your bearing clearance is. This will work for 90% of people
Even amsoil in a way suggests to go one grade higher or lower. We have a choice to go one grade higher or lower according to ambient temperature and driving conditions
Mr. Lake Speed , my 2023 Lexus IS 350 calls for a 0 W 20 . The owners manuel says that if I drive at high speeds or pull heavy loads , I may use a thicker viscosity oil . Can I use say a 0 W 30 or a 5 W 30 oil , will it be safe . Thank you Sir for your tlme and the video . May God bless you .
Go with the 0W-30 if you see the 0W-20 is not working. The way to know is via used oil analysis.
@TotalSeal Thank you Sir, for taking the time to answer my question and for the information. May God bless you.
If you drive like crazy constantly revving your engine in the red zone, then go for 0w30 or even 0w40 as the difference between 20 and 30 is not that high - again it differs from manufacturer to manufacturer, and for sportier applications 40 would be a better choice. If you drive normally, stick to 20 as the manufacturer recommends. 20 is for regular driving mode like 90% of people have going to work and from work without sporty ambitions. If you really load your engine hard revving it near red zones, you definitely have to go for thicker oil.
When I added a supercharger to my sbc, I changed from 10w-30 to 0w-40. It's running over triple the stock hp so the oil is worked much harder and sees more heat.
Going up in viscosity is the right move when going from NA to Boost.
@@TotalSeal I've heard others recommend to stick with factory viscosity. No thanks! I wanted better cold flow for instant oil pressure and flow on cold starts.. while maintaining better protection when I step on the throttle. I recently read that the 650hp LT4 is factory filled with the same multi-grade viscosity.
@@EricErnst good thinking
@@EricErnst Not withstanding the fact that a 0w40 is already almost a 30 from the container and get to a low 30 after a few hours of operation
So, you still giving a 30 most of the time, anyways
Film strength matters too. The 0w40 requires more viscosity modifiers than a 10w30, assuming all else is equal. More viscosity modifiers (big numerical spread) often result in less shear resistance. The big numerical spread can look like everyone is happy, but might not be as protective as numbers closer together (less modifiers).
10w30 won't shear to less than 10. 0w40 can shear down to 0.
I drive a car with a low mileage 1 litre gdi turbo motor. I live in a a tropical country with temperatures around 80 f. My manual recommends 5w30, 10w30 and 10w40 viscocity. What would be the viscosity that is best for lowest engine wear for city driving conditions in your opinion . Would greatly appreciate your response.
For a GDI engine, go with an API SP 5W-30 synthetic.
@@TotalSeal Thank you v much 1for your time. Most channels never respond to viewer comments.
We are happy to help!
Actually, an oil analysis of each oil would give you the better answer. I am more inclined to say 10w30, cold flow rate at 70f is about the same.
0-20 is shortening engine life, and makes engines consume oil, especially nowadays with pistonrings with less tension. That is me experience atleast. 5-30 is good choice for a normal passenger car.
Low tension rings do better with low viscosity oils.
The low tension rings can actually hydroplane over instead of scrape oil off the cylinder walls if the oil is too vicious.The fuel efficiency gains with low viscosity designed engines is not only lower pumping losses but also lower rings to cylinder friction because lower tension scraper rings are needed because of lower viscosity oil.
@@masterq2.033 Exactly.
@@masterq2.033No there’s really no evidence showing that
@@jtmartin8445hydroplane ???? Lmao. Agree ive never heard of that. Its not like engine oil versus gear oil. I believe running thicker oil will make engine last longer...
I could listen to Lake talk all day he is one of the smartest guys in the industry.
Another great class! Thanks guys!
Thanks! We have a great podcast episode coming soon on this topic.
I have been using synthetic oil only in race engines for near 30 years. Road race or dirt oval engines. Have normally used 25/50. Chev road race engine did aprox 2200 race miles and the bearings were basically brand new. Good enough to reuse. Unfortunatly the crank was cracked! I did use 15/40 also, seemed no different. This on a drysumped SBC road race engine with a decent oil cooler running to 7500. Oil temp usually around 220-230degF
Current project is a 5 litre Ford to 340ci. Will be run to 7500 also. The windsor oil pump drive is too small@ 5/16,, weak and I am stuck with a [good] wet sump. I feel 10/40 may be the go. Crank will be aprox 2 thou right along.
Use a crome molly shaft.
Makes me want to rethink my Jeep 4.0 and just run 10W-30 instead of 5w-40 year round here in Arizona.
I'm in TX. I have found that 0w-40 is a really good solution. M1 is really thin for a a 40wt, if you want that.
@@DBravo29er I’ve been really happy with Valvoline HM 5w-30 so far, no more click tapping at start up anymore.
@@dad3562 that's a good, thick for grade oil. It's on the heavy end of the 30wt range. If we used half weight ratings, it would be a 35 weight oil all day. 👍
@@DBravo29er no way it is?! For real, I didn’t know that! Crap, now I have to Google it to confirm. I seriously did not know that!
@@dad3562 Yeah the KV100 and HTHS are pretty robust. It's good oil
Lake, could you do a video talking about oil temperature? I read that we want it to boil out any water in the oil, but is there a reason why we want it to be hot? Is 150 as good as 180 or 210?
The Ow has more additives that break down over time than the 5w or 10w.
The lower the range, the less additives.
I was using Castrol Edge 5w40 which was oem for my turbo car.
Now I'm doing Castrol Edge 0w40 which had a higher lube rating than the 5w40 but more additives which break down.
The 0 should pump faster on start up which prevents wear.
The engine seems happy with either and I'm in the Pacific Northwest so we don't have extreme hot or cold weather.
I'll just use whichever is cheaper or available..lol
I do 10k full synthetic oil changes and filter. 72k and runs like new.
Mazda mpv V6 ran Mobil 1 5w30 at 10k oil changes and ran like new for 150k miles and sold car.
Cheers
Most people don't understand multi weight oils or viscosity; this subject is best explained by SAE ( society of automotive engineers )!!!
I have been using Rotella or Delvac 15W40 in everything I own since the 70s. Which included a3.5hp Briggs & Stratton push mower that lasted 25 years!?!?!?
Today I use Rotella 5W40 synthetic in everything.
I said all this as a retired CAT&CUMMINGS diesel mechanic.
Do u have gasoline vehicles that say 0w20 or 5w20 that u use 5w40 in?
Rotella 5-40 is great oil. Probably better than any of the big brands.
We use straight 30 wt, in our hot rod engines, because we run .003 thou. On the mains, and .002 thou. On the rods. Lighter oil might allow the crank to hammer the bearings at 7 to 8,000 rpm
It’s 110 degrees outside today. Summer is here. My car takes 5w30 but I’ve got some 10w30 I’d like to use up. I don’t think the 5w30 will get down to that 5 number anyway. Tell me the pros and cons of using the 10w30 this summer
No worries for summertime. Make sure the 10w30 is full synthetic, because the 5w30 is.
Yup, I agree with rickyscogin1008
Wow, I wasn't expecting to see an Oldsmobile head in this video
Great video guys...thank you! I live in Alberta Canada and I own a Stage 2 (catted downpipe, MHD stage 2 tuned) 2018 BMW M240I X-drive with 36000 miles that produces about 450 HP and 475 lb-ft of torque at the wheels. I exclusively use the Shell Nitro+ 93 octane fuel (10% methanol). The oil temperature at normal running temp is 215 F. The manufacturer calls for 0W20, but I have zero idea what the main bearing clearance is. Am I correct in assuming that 0W30 will be fine and likely, preferable to use, at least in the summer?
I have a (what I think) is a great question.
I collect many Japanese imports. My cars from Japan, state to use 5w40/10w40. My US SPEC Honda/Acura that uses the same identical B18C VTEC engine, states to use the factory 5w30/10w30. The ONLY difference in the two is that the Japanese spec revs a bit higher because of the ECU. I always wondered why the difference.
A better similarity is a Japanese spec S2000 to a US S2000. Japan states in the owners manual 5/40-10w40, in the US 10w30.
Do you know why? Emissions BS? Marketing? I hate to question or argue with a true Honda engineer, but I feel you would know!
Love the channel
The lower viscosity spec in the US is because of EPA fuel economy requirements.
For most drivers, use the oil weight recommended by the manufacturer. Use a high-quality synthetic, change it and the filter every 3,000 miles, drive gently, and a well-built vehicle will last a long, long time.
Changing synthetic oil at 3,000 is what morons do
The problem is my car has 200k miles and my oil gets very hot.. 218°f/103°c and I drive mainly city miles.. wouldn't I be better off running 0w40 at these temps?
I know many of the recommended weights by manufacturers are really thin for emissions and economy and in other countries they direct the owners of the same engines to run thicker oils so you need to really know what is best for your engine…
Oil weight aside, oil changes at 3k miles with modern oils, let alone full synthetic, is a complete waste of oil and money. Don’t do that. It certainly won’t hurt your engine, just your wallet. But, it won’t help either.
@@torchmd I was thinking on an Rv or heavy truck 3k is good (especially an RV, where it takes years to put 3k miles on it) but on a car maybe 5-6k…
How does the choice of oil viscosity differ with different types of camshafts? What if the rules require a functional flat tappet hydraulic lifter vs a solid and or what about a hydraulic or solid roller? Do those differences also change the needs of the engine when it comes to viscosity?
Thanks for the question. The camshaft type does not effect the choice of viscosity. It’s all about bearing clearances and oil temperature.
@TotalSeal mate is ok the 0w40 use instead 5w30? Can damage the engine? Toyota 2zzge vvtli 1800cc 192hp 8.400rpm.
I switched to 10W-30 in my 2.4 L engine in my jeep renegade from the 0W 20 to attend W-2 and if I can’t find a 10W-30 I’ll use a 5W-30 I could understand using 0W 20 or 0W 30 if your daytime high is only in the high 50s or low 60s And then below zero at night time
Thank you Again MOG! WITHOUT correct lubrication and filtering correctly your doomed to fail. Like the old TV commercial you pay me now! Or pay alot more later it never pays to cut corners on lubrication. Do have a resource for someone who is good with ignition upgrades? I wa t to go distriborless on a 5.9 magnum using LS1 GM ignition coils an you make a recommendation please.
I’m not sure who to recommend for that.
With the typical low tension rings and or gdi engines, are you better to go up a grade?
Going up a grade with low tension oil rings can increase oil consumption.
@@TotalSeal My Kia with 0w20 was blowing through a qt. of oil in 300 miles, with 10w30 it went to 1000 miles. So I don't agree with a single upgrade to the second number being a problem. And I got rid of the Korean cars due to the many inherent issues...
5:56 they clearly say higher viscosity requires higher tension from the piston rings. Maybe this is why Volvo changed their recommended oil for their early 2015-ish 4 cyl 2.0L which were showing piston ring issues form 5w-30 to 0w-20
I've always just use that recommended in the owner's manual of the vehicle. They're pretty much all online these days.
For stock engines, that’s all you need.
Hey Lake Jr. I have a stock ford 4.6 3v in my Mustang and run 20-30 min hpde/time trial road courses. Oil temp usually settles at about 220 on cooler days and up to 235 on hot days. I've been running a 50/50 blend of FR20 and LS30. Should I continue with the blend or go straight 5/30 for my application?
That sounds like a good blend.
Awesome, thank you!@@TotalSeal
I thought I heard that variable cam timing was controlled by oil pressure so changing the viscosity could affect Cam timing negatively. I do use thinker gear oils for my truck the the manufacture says to as I know they want better MPG with the thinner oils. I would rather have more protection.
Toyota states in their owners manual that a higher viscosity idk can be used in high load conditions. So you can use 5W-30 if car calls for 0W-20 without voiding the warranty.
Thanks for sharing!
Always enjoy you videos guys!.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the kind words!
Great video! But now I have questions! Thank you very much, so I have a BBC 454 jet drive stock 91 octaine from 47 to 5200 RPM OIl pressure hot is 60 and a bit over 100PSI ta max RPM I am using 20/50 Valoline High zinc on a 300 hour motor. Should I hit the danger zone and change to a thiner oil?
Thanks for the feedback. The VR1 20W-50 is a great oil!
My old Fords oil pressure was a bit lacking having 565,000 miles and instead of raising the thickness of the oil I lowered the thermostat temp from 192 to 180 degrees and the oil pressure came back to the way it was...
Do you have an opinion about motorcycle oil for a Harley Davidson V twins?
I have a 2008 c63 and the manual recommends 0w40 or 5w40. I have been running 5w49 because people say the 5w is better to prevent lifter tick at startup. Is this what you would go with?
As long as the outside temperature is above -10F, the 5W-40 is fine. For driving in colder weather, the 0W-40 is better.
Try Lucas Oil Stabilizer as an additive...
The 0w isn't oil weight the 40 is. The 0w is resistance on cold 0w flows better than 5w in all climates
@@DimoS... resistance to flow is viscosity..... both numbers are weights. 0w40 flows faster than 5w40 at cold temperatures (cold engine start) but has the same viscosity at operating temp (212 degrees F).
@@DimoS... The word weight has been used since the multigrades came out, it's just a synonym for Winter.
I don't understand a lot of this viscosity Talk , So to Be simple, Would it Be more beneficial for me to run a 10W -30 Oil in a aluminum block 1.6 T engine Knowing that the turbo creates a lot of Heat and I live in a state like NC ? So cold weather start ups is not really all that big a deal in my case ? Look forward to everyone's advice !!! BTW I only use Havoline Oil in my Vehicles ...
I don't know the bearing clearences😢in my 305 it was rebuilt by someone else may need to stick with a 40 weight because it is in the middle
Good choice!
I was looking for info on switching between a 30 and 40 weight oil but this video is on the extreme ends of oil weight.
Question,
I run the VR1 in my Chevelle.
My engine builder recommends a 10W40 and I can use a 10W30.
So I went on line and found an oil viscosity calculator for mixing two different viscosities to come up with another one.
Is it safe to mix two different viscosities of the same brand of oil?
Valvoline says they don't recommend it, but that might just be them covering their butt. What's your opinion?
Per the viscosity calculator, I can mix 3 quarts of 10W30 with 4 quarts of 20W50 and come up with roughly a 15W40 Will that work or is that a bad idea?
If i may ask ...
My motorcycle manufacturer recomends a 10w30 engine oil .... Is it okay if i switch to a 5w40 from a 10w30 ? .... Which one is better for protection in high rpm and high temperature ?
And is it okay to use car engine oil in a matic motorcycle ? .... Because as we know, they both use dry clutch.
@TotalSeal here in the tropics where the lowest ambient temps at night may be approx 24°C and during the dAy we see 33-34 AVG , all the way past 37°C on the hotter days, let's imagine a very common (but healthy) VW/Audi 2.0T with 200k Kms.... What do you make of that scenario (there's LiquiMoly/Mobil1 5W-50 full synthec now avail)
Lake jr./ can you help me, I drive my 2016 f 150 5.0 v8 only in the summers in Minn. And park it in the winters. I only start it in the winter in my garage twice to 3 times a month, 5 - 10 min. Just to lube the internal parts. Would using 0-20 be ok to use only to get the oil to internals faster at start up, and I use 5-30 Pennzoil ultra platinum in summer. Please let me know your thoughts, love your oil videos. THANKS!!
Amsoil 5W30 100% synthetic
I would like to learn more about the zinc in Driven motor oils.
It can damage the catalytic converter, so I've read. High zinc is for older cars...
@@lonniebeal6032 I’ve completely read otherwise when done correctly like in Driven Oils.
I have a stock BRZ fa20 NA motor and I only run it on track. OE manual calls for 0w-20. I was thinking 0w-40 with an oil cooler to have more wear protection at higher temps. Temps stay between 245 and 270. Do you agree?
If you race in cold weather stick the 0 weight.is good , if you race in hot weather zero weight is stupid! Sounds backwards but not really they sell the same vehicle with the same oil and ship some to Alaska and some to Death Valley all with the same oil. Owner manuals usually say change to 5 or 10wt depending temperate extremes.
@@shellylozano1052 thank you
I have a 23 wrx an my manuel say 0w20 can use 5w30 if other not available but in everyother country there sold other than U.S. manuel says 5w30 what would you run?
I have the same car. I run 0-20 in winter months. I run 5-30 in spring,,summer and fall,, but I will say. I get much better MPG with the 0-20.
While friction and wear are independent of each other it's possible to reduce friction (10~30%) while reducing wear (50~90%).
If boundary lubrication is maintained, by bonding a lubricant to internal parts, you can safely use lower viscosity oil without worrying that the lubricant film will break down.
Engine life can be extended by 2~10x
🙂 #XcelPlus
One thing I've never heard anybody mention is it all or cool gasoline engines have a thermostat that usually 195 to 200 degrees. This means the engine runs the same temperature all the time no matter if it's 48° outside or 100° outside . So it should make no difference the outside temperature as far as the oil is concern.
My car calls for 0w20 but i live in az where as now temperatures stays around 90-100 and later on summer we usually reach 120 so i use 5w30 it is ok? Or should i go back to 0w20?
0w20 oil could have something to do with variable valve timing, I think.
I once visited Phoenix. AZ during a summer week when it was a 108-degree Fahrenheit temperature. In a newer engine, I would stick with 0W-20 regardless of the outside temperatures.Once you get to 75,000 miles, you can use 5W-30 oil full synthetic.
If your owners manual gives you options, 10w30. If you have a warranty and the owners manual only says 0w20, I'd use Redline group IV 0w20 for the POE base and high anti-wear additive package. Just my opinion. I rented a Chrysler 300 Hemi in AZ 2 years ago, on start up it knocked, clattered and did it every morning. Oil cap said 0w20, it was fairly new car, low miles. 0w20 is crap over 35c, it returns to the oil pan too fast.
@@patrickhenry2845 I don't agree. Your car runs hotter when the outside temperature is higher. Every online viscosity chart says 0w20 is no good over 30 or 35c. My cars are under aftermarket warranties, I run 10w30 in the summer, I have receipts for 0w20 that's required year around. Not having any problems.
I'm pretty new to investigating the best oils to maintain the engine I have so that it will outlast me and I'm curious; where can I find the main bearing clearance spec for my vehicle? I can't seem to find numbers by basic internet search for my 2020 GLC43
'19 Tundra with 5.7L, it calls for 0w20, can i bump to 5w20 or 5w30 for the summertime here in in texas?
Yes. Some of the first 5.7 manuals specs all the way to 20w-50 depending on operating temps.
According to the Owner's Manual, my Honda motorcycle needs 10W30 oil, but the average temperature here is 32 C and maximum is 40 C. In this case, should I change to 10W40?
I’m 5 min into the video, heard nothing but viscosity, viscosity, and how important it is. What is the point? What do you suggest people do rather than following manufacturer’s recommendation?
the lower the W number, the better (within reasonable cost, comparatively). The other number... well... whatever your ambient upper temperatures tend to be. For most people, 5w-30 is fine in most location. Otherwise 5w-40 is fine. Very very rarely would anyone need *W-50 or 60. These are either for highly stressed performance cars, high mileage engines, or very hot ambient temps.
If only you had watched the rest
I had read a research article which in short words stated that engine oil viscosity is based upon clearance of rod bearings. We all know rod bearings are the most critical parts of an engine to have maximum wear
W winter @@DoubtingThomas333
Freeze 0W20, then pour it out and talk that BS about rod bearings and clearances
Im thinking about running amsoil signature series 5w30 in my 2024 toyota tundra year around, winter it can get down to -40 ,
I don't think Amsoil paid for the license required to have a warranty honored, check with Toyota. Your owners manual states 0w20, you will void your warranty if they check the oil viscosity. Most 0w20s perform the same in cold climates, in hot climates they will have a viscosity breakdown depending on the oil quality. I'd run any 0w20 Full synthetic in the winter, under 30c, and Redline 0w20 over 30c. Redline is a group IV POE oil, group IV has a better chance of keeping its properties at higher temps. Amsoil is also group IV, but I've read there were warranty problems due to a license they didn't pay for.
@lonniebeal6032 I went with amsoil signature series 0w30
Could use some sound deadening in that tin can. Thanks for the info
You bet
anyone had skyactive 2.5 na mazda said ow20 but i live in vancouver not extreme cold but can be hot in summer anyone tri3d 5w30 on skyactivs? do drive alot mean high heat cycle
So, my european car calls for 0w30, but i live in southern california, never gets below 10 Fahrenheit, can I use 5w30 then? There are simply much more options for 5w30 than 0w30 in the market
What does your owners manual say? Do you have a warranty? If you have to stick to 0w30 for warranty, I'd look for a group IV synthetic, Redline is group IV. If your manual lists 10w30, that's what I'd run, in a full synthetic.
Our 2018 F150…5.0 with plasma cylinder walls used 1qt of 5w-20 semi synthetic Motorcrafter oil every 3000 miles and went thru 2 Ford authorized oil consumption tests. At 20,000 miles I changed to 5w-30 Motorcraft semi synthetic oil and the consumption problem was gone. I now have 45,000 miles on the engine ant it might use a cup in 3K miles. I change oil every 4-5 k miles or yearly if I don’t drive it much…
Thanks for sharing
0w20 gets into and high up in the motor quickly,the gen 3 hemi likes this.
I rented a 300 Chrysler 5.7 in AZ, with 0w20 it knocked and ticked every morning, it was never below 90f. So local temps matter. 0w20 also returns to the pan faster than a 10w30.
I need help!! I just bought a used 2018 Camaro, V6, 3.6 liter... the cap says 5w-30, HOWEVER GM supposedly made an update to use 0w-40. I am confused what to use?!?! Mobil one says use 0w-40, Royal purple, valvoline and Penzoil specify 5w-30
For the V6, the Dexos 1 5W-30 is fine.
@@TotalSeal Cool, Thank you!!
Thanks for the insights!
We are glad it was helpful!
My 5.0 f150 is recommended 5w-20 in the us and Canada, but is recommended 5w-30 in the Mexican version. My vehicle is higher mileage and vibrated a lot. I ran 0w-30 and most of the unusual vibrations went away. I now exclusively use 0w-30 or high quality 5w-30. Timing chain sounds a lot happier too 😂
fordteck manudko says to use 5-30
Please advise. I have a 6.0 ls with a high lift cam and ls7 lifters and typical mods to go with. Bearings are factory..etc Engine builder advised 10w40 conventical only. Being that lower end was not changed and I dont race it, could I not use 10w30. What oil viscosity do you recommend?
With stock bearing clearances, go with a semi synthetic 10W-30.
@@TotalSeal Thanks!
Why not synthetic?@@TotalSeal
Is there an oil that maintains a stable viscosity regardless of the temperature?
That speaker reminds me of Richard Simmons' Total Body Workout on TV. LOL I am just short of 50 years of vehicle ownership both in daily drivers and performance machines, and I have never had an oil related failure using name brand oils in the viscosity listed in the owner's manual. Jeez and some I have kept for over 200K miles from new.
I have a vw 3cyl that has done 30k mls that runs 0-20W 9k changes! Have not had to add any oil and still very clean looking at change surely that cannot be bad ?
You should never try to go that long between oil changes, radical environmentalists and cheap skates be dammed.
I have a fbo and tuned g37 and I live in a pretty cold climate during the winter. I usually run 5w40. Think that’s okay in temps that get close to -10° occasionally?
Yes, that is fine for that temperature.
I want to move to a thicker oil in a 2006 gmc sierra. It recommends 5w30 could you use 5w40 or 0w40
Yes
What is the dexos package?
Everyone worried about fuel efficiency and horse power. I am worried about wear on parts.
So this weekend we raced (sbc350/gm crank .0017-.0019, scat rods .002, mahle powerpack pistons, low tension rings, .500 lift rule, NA moror) running XP3 (10w-30 Synthetic) my oil temp guage (autometer mechanical) was pegged over 280-300 degrees. Same temp with autometer electric guage. My water guage was at 180-190 (weird split, oil/water). Oil pressure wot apx 65-70lbs @6500rpm. Why are my temps so high, and should I switch to driven 5w-20 XP1? Will that help keep temps down? Should i be concerned with 290-300 degree oil temps? Sorry for the long question.
Those temps are pretty normal for this type of application, and the XP3 can a handle it. With that said, try the XP1 as it is a better fit for those clearances.
My 6.2 in my 2022 GMC Sierra calls for 0W-20, but my 2019 Corvette, 6.2 ZO6 uses 0W-40. I live in S. Texas. Can I run a higher viscosity oil in my truck?
Yes, a 5W-30 is certainly a safe option.
I have some questions about which oil to use in new race motor. I was recommended to use Driven oils but am getting a couple of mixed messages as to which one will suit the motor best. Is there any way of contacting you directly to get your thoughts?
Call the folks at Driven.
@@TotalSeal I'm in Australia and while that's not too much of a problem, part of my question has to do with info from my machinist/engine builder AND an Oil Rep at Driven. Both recommended a different Driven oil product so I'm not quite sure which advice to follow.
@@333pg333 What's your application? Which products are both recommending?
@@TotalSeal It's a highly modified alu block Porsche 968 turbo engine for Time Attack that runs on race grade E85 only. It has been sleeved with Darton MiD sleeves which are a thick ductile iron product. The engine builder and machinist (who installed the sleeves) gave me a chart for the XP6 line of oils. Based on clearances you select which weight to go for. But when I contacted Joe Gibbs oils one of their Reps said this: “I chose the GP-1 15W-40 for a couple of reasons. The 15W-40 is a better fit for your main bearing clearance, your front and rear bearings were a bit tighter than the rest, but I would recommend going to the heavy side in line with the centre mains. I did not consider the XP for your application because the XP has very little detergent and virtually no corrosion protection package. XPs are formulated for applications that are disassembled and inspected after every event.” When I looked at what type of cars GP-1 was recommended for it ranges across quite a few different purposes. From racecars to street rods. Whereas it looks like the XP-6 is for drag type applications where the motors are torn down after each event. Do you think I'm reading this correctly? ps...thanks for even responding. Much appreciated. Oh ps..before this motor was sleeved we used to run a 60w oil so I get nervous when seeing people recommend 40w product. But I don't know what the clearances were for the last iteration prior to sleeving.
@@333pg333 Go with the GP-1, but use the 20W-50 instead of the 15W-40.
Hello, I just bought an imported used 2016 chevrolet impala 2.5l 4 cylinders from korea, on the oil cap it says 5w20, but the mechanic said to put instead 5w30 because we are in Senegal west africa, where we live most of the time in summer, is it a good idea to put the 5w30? Thank you
I agree with your mechanic but I'm no mechanic. If it's hotter climate use the 30.
Look at online oil viscosity charts. 5w20 when at 0c flows like SAE90, owners manual may give more options, if it does, I'd go with a viscosity suggested by and online chart.
Ive heard engine masters hosts finnegin saying to make more power you cool the engine coolant,,, run colder water after a test dyno run to cool engine ,,, but leave the hot engine oil (runs quicker,, more thin) to get more hp from following test. So coolder coolant but hotter oil
Yep, cold water and hot oil makes more power than hot water and cold oil.
Can you please explain why 5w30 oil is more expensive then 5w40. While 5w40 is supposedly to suit better for older engines. And the 40 weight has better oil film through additives?
Like a 10w60 race oil is for high performance engines. In my thought a 5w40 ia better for an old bmw m54 engine then 5w30 for running prolonged high engine revs like between 5000 and 6000 for more then 1 hour?
I hope you can shed some light on this??
The pricing question is for the marketing experts. That’s not a technical one.
@@TotalSeal thanks, could you also educate me/us on the 5w30 5w40 VS 10w60 for high rpm load of the engine? Regarding additives engine wear (assume all high quality oils like shell ect c3 and or bmw 10w60?It's an m54 bmw 6cyl.
More ppl use 5-30 so they jack up the price
@@TotalSealbest oil for 2011 Toyota camery .I live in GCC country , so the wheather is hot maybe 8 months is hot , the temperature reaches 55C( 131 degrees Fahrenheit) what viscosity is recommend?!
About my I use 5/40 or 10/40 full synthetic
So what type of oil for a california driven honda rod bearing clearance 0.032-0.050 standard (0.0013-0.0020 new) at 160-200f?
Projectfarms compared 0w20 to 5w30 in a lubricity test, which had a clearance of 0.0000, the 0w20 lost. If you freeze 0w20 and then go for a pour test, it flows like sae90. I you're manual only lists 0w20, and you're under warranty, only 0w20. If you're off warranty, I'd do 0w30 or 5w30. Which is exactly what my RDXs call for and what I do, 0w20 in the winter or below 65f months, and 5w30 for summer months...
I would like to know what's the deal with 5W-40 oil and why it's so rare to find anyone recommending or using it
It's a guess from my car's manual but there is a chart that says "if you drive at temperatures from X to Y and use high quality oil this viscosity"
So I chose 5W-40 because it does get cold here but it has become really hot here recently and it's an older engine
I am no expert but I think it's the best oil for most older engines that are still running really well. The previous owner was using conventional 10w30 and I switched to a full synthetic 5w40 so it's gonna be better no matter what and the fuel consumption stayed the same
This makes me think back to the 90s era, when NASCAR teams had Qualifying engines, then put in Race engine. People talked about, the engines ran really thin oil, etc, to get more HP to qualify faster, but won't survive a full race. Wonder what the backstory is there?
That is true. The qualifying engines would never last more than 200 miles with oil that thin.
My vehicle is 21 years old now, use what the manual says. 5w30. It recommends 0w30 or synthetic 5w30 if it gets below a certain temp in the winter, so I just use synthetic 5w30 year round. Used 0w30 one time, just wasn't impressed much by it or it's higher price.