Will Thin Motor Oil Cause Engine Damage? Let's Settle This!
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Many modern cars require very thin (low viscosity) motor oil to operate more efficiently. Newer engines typically have tighter tolerances between engine parts. Let’s see if lower viscosity motor oil offers the same level of protection against engine wear. We’ll also see of the thinner oil experiences greater thermal breakdown and evaporation.
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➡ Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order):
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Pennzoil 5W-30: amzn.to/3MelNCl
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Here’s the list of products reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you!
Pennzoil 0W-16: amzn.to/3Bea68x
Pennzoil 0W-20: amzn.to/42kB8XI
Pennzoil 5W-20: amzn.to/41qbW0A
Pennzoil 5W-30: amzn.to/3MelNCl
The amount of effort and time you put into these videos for mundane everyday products is honestly unparalleled on the entire Internet. You sir are a hero for the everyday man.
Thank you very much!
This channel is certainly useful and APPRECIATED!
Agree
This channel deserves more subscribers.
Mundane? These products are very interesting
I'm not being hyperbolic when I say the world would be a better place if everyone watched this channel. This man is a national treasure.
True. And he does NOT waste our time. Dang! Condensed hard valuable info.
Thanks!
This man is phenomenal great job
@@ProjectFarm If you do another motor oil viscosity vs wear comparison, please consider making an equal parts mixture of 5W-20 synthetic and 5W-30 synthetic oils. If the wear scar decreases from that of the 5W-20 oil, but is also greater than the wear scar of the 5W-30 oil, then this empirically verifies that the wear rate of 5W-30 is not a fluke and that the wear rate is definitely better. Thank you.
@@ProjectFarm keep up your great service... from Asia
Nothing but content. No wasted words. No dead spots. And you sure can talk fast!!
Don't stop doing what you're doing!!
One of my top reasons why I love this channel so much. Time wasted = 0!
Good editing helps too.
Thanks!
When I saw that Jimmy Buffett passed away, I had my phone play "Margaritaville" while I got ready. I was in the shower when I heard some idiot talking, poked out my head, and it was an ad--after a 3-minute video, which had an ad before it.
It was some young and fit guy telling me that I could answer a couple quick questions, learn my body type, and learn how to best lose weight.
I answered some questions and he claimed that he just had a quick video to solve all of my problems--and talked for perhaps 30 minute.
I got dressed, did 30 push-ups, and drove at least 20 minutes before the guy finally finished talking.
1. Carb cycling
2. Eat healthy fats
3. Do HIIT 3 times a week for 15 minutes
4. Pay him hundreds of dollars.
@@drippingwax How much wax are you dripping, my guy? This isn't related to the video at all...
I love how nonchalant this man is. He has possibly the most positive comment section in the entirety of RUclips in all of his videos and he always answers with a: Thanks!
Never change 🗣️
Thanks!
That is a bot response.
@@matrixist😂😂😂
@@matrixist Stop leaving botted replies
@@thevalorousdong7675 aint botted if you go down the section you'll find many different responses
I love that you are straight to the point , no fluff. No sponsors. Just raw information quick as not to lose anyone’s attention span. You’ve built a great channel.
He's like Consumer Reports for RUclips.
@@turn-n-burn1421and the best part is when you've already bought something and then he does a comparison video it's nice to get confirmation after the fact you bought a decent product
@@turn-n-burn1421 Honestly, I trust Project Farm even more than Consumer Reports. You can tell a lot more about one man's integrity than you can about a company with lots of people. You never know when someone's biases might sway a Consumer Report article, or any other article, for that matter. You can see and hear an honest appraisal when you watch these videos. Just fantastic information!
@@Techprep23That's a very good point! I know that it sure works like that for me! I feel a little bummed out on occasion when I made the "wrong choice" because I didn't know as much when I bought whatever than after watching these great videos. And I feel all smart and stuff when I found out that my pre-purchase research and purchase choice turned out to be the best one that I could have made, or at least the best one that I could afford to buy. This channel is the bomb!
Thanks!
As an Alaskan, I'd love to see the -40 oil put into the wear tester to see how they perform when put to work in extreme cold. If nothing else it'd be a great video to show the importance of winterizing your vehicle (Transmission heat pad, Oil pan heat pad, Block heat plug to heat coolant, Trickle charger/battery blanket).
We tend to run thin oils here cause the winters are so cold. Fairbanks Area.
Thank you for the video idea!
im still waiting to see the power steering video. I live in the Montana mountains, and -30 isn't uncommon; then add on I have a leak, and I want to see how different power steering fluids handle
sadly I don't have the money or power outlets so I can winterize my truck in any helpful way bc I cant go out and start it up every day due to gas prices
Yikes I can imagine how cold it gets up In Alaska… I’m from the upper Midwest and luckily it still 95° here. 😅
An interesting thought, but I think it would make essentially no difference.
Ya it'll start out at -40, but the friction will heat it up FAST.
It's not like you wreck your engine with a cold/dry start one time, it's doing it hundreds, or thousands of times that gives you issues.
I guess you could swap the wear part to a softer metal and perform a shorter test, to try and compensate?
How do you survive up there? As a Canadian, I can get used to -30⁰C
What I love about this channel is he gets right to the point and no cringe intro and long explanations that are superfluous, it’s quick, coherent and easily understandable throughout the entire video and you never skip a part because it’s everything you need to know in every second. Not to mention there aren’t any cringe sponsors and what not.
Thanks!
i just wish he wouldn’t speak so fast and loud that’s just me tho
No "Hey, RUclips!" No "Click like, subscribe, and ring that bell so you don't miss any of my awesome content!" So refreshing, he lets his excellent content speak for itself.
Have you heard valvoline's new oil's claim to "restore pistons to factory clean" and protect them. That's a bold claim. Would love to see how they are against your top 2, amsoil and pennzoil with standard mobil 1
Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarmplease do it
This fella puts a ton of time and effort into each of his videos. Very impressive. Possibly the best test shop in the world.
Thanks!
@@ProjectFarm hey can you test the best product for stopping rust on the cars underside?
Love your videos!!
And he doesn't even use a stunt double.
And his pouring is top notch .
@@R5555.would be a good video but it would need to be long term at least a year to re evaluate
Sure seems like the oil manufacturer added more additives to the 0w-16 to try and offset the increased wear of such a thin oil. Thank you for another informative test.
Exactly!
That’s what Toyota uses and they are known for reliability and longevity
Unless the heavier rated oils stick to metal surfaces the heavier oil has a disadvantage when cold. With most wear taking place upon start-up the 0-16 has an advantage in this respect.
@@michaelbassett5105 Honda uses 0W16 on some models I think I heard as well.
Efficiency is good when you own it, longevity is better for the next owner
When you do oil tests it might be interesting to include the all-time best and worst performers on the charts at the end of each test (maybe give them a faded out color to set them apart). This would give some overall context to the small selection being tested.
Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm I'll +1 this one, sometimes I would love to know what the all time best in category is so I can go buy the best.
"Project farm” and "The Car Care Nut” are National Treasures. Let’s all pray for these two guys to live up to 100 years healthy.
Thanks!
9:32 The manufacturer doesn't always recommend "the best" oil, they will often recommend the oil that best meets EPA specs for mpg. Case in point, Ford's 5.4L 3-valve which officially calls for 5W20, but has incorrect pressure with it (too low) and works/lasts much longer when running on 5W30.
Thanks for the feedback.
Always enjoy the oil tests! 👨🔬😎✌️
Would still like to see a sump pump showdown sometime!
Thank you!
Yes, sump pumps -Liberty and Zoeller for starters@@ProjectFarm
@@RRaucina Wayne & Simers, too!
I'd love to see a video about the advantages and disadvantages of running very thick oils like 15w50 for extreme duty
Disadvantages would be fuel economy and flow issues in colder weather
Thanks for the suggestion.
I run 20w 50 in my hotrod and in the high performance engine in my boat. Both are only used in summer months. I use 10w 30 in my other two Mustangs.
I tried 20W50 in an old '79 Plymouth Horizon I had. The engine needed a valve job and was burning oil. One day the temp dropped and the starter could barely turn the engine over.
@@gadgethunter5732 thats what happened when I had it in my old BMW during the winter
Awesome test as usual! I still believe the CAFE requirements have a lot to do with manufacturer selection. Obviously, I would want a "thinner oil" in a very cold climate during start-up.
However.... my 22-yr. old Buick calls for 10w-30 and I don't have any inclination to use anything else! Thanks for the tests!
I use 0w-40 even at -15°F, no problem whatsoever.
I use 15-40 in the summer and 5-30 in the winter, both full synthetic. 320,000 miles and not a tick from the lifters and it doesn’t burn a drop. Leaks a bit but not enough to get worked up about. I have to top it off maybe 1 or 2 times between changes and I do 10k plus changes. And top it off means IT’s just touching the low line and I like it at the maximum mark. More oil equals better cooling from it.
I have used conventional/semi-synthetic 10w-30 in every vehicle I've owned in the last 21 years and have never owned a vehicle that didn't last 400,000 miles or more. I have done this regardless of the manufacturers specification. All of these vehicles succumbed to rust or driver-induced failure...no engine failed because of my choice of oil. That said, I changed my oil religiously at 3k or 5k miles (3k for conventional and 5k for synthetic). I also DROVE my vehicles. I beat on them and/or I drove them for significant periods of time to evaporate the condensation in the oil.
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I used 5w30 in -30f and it worked fine. It started a little slow but I think that was more battery 0w30 felt about the same.
I agree it is all CAFE even 0w16 cars here recommend 0w20 to 10w30 in other countries. People try to say the engine was specifically engineered for oil that thin. If it was then the manufacturer wouldn't also recommend 10w30. Engine clearances have been the same for a long time. Tolerances have gotten smaller (less variation) and the finish is better but the actual clearances are about the same. Todd's new truck having half the oil pressure also supports this, same size holes thinner oil = lower pressure.
Companies care about profit and they lose money if they don't meet CAFE numbers. If thinner oil reduces total engine life but gets a better CAFE number of course they will do that.
Next year CAFE is 51 mpg cars, 36.6 mpg trucks and 45 mpg combined. For every 0.1mpg under those numbers they have to pay $5.5 per vehicle produced.
Miss the number by 1 mpg and you make 1.8 million cars (Toyota or Ford) thats $99 million dollars lost. Wonder why they are looking into 0w8 oil?
Longevity is not always or is never the primary goal.
I'm retired but worked for a company that developed the micro-finishing film that most engine manufacturers adapted. There was extreme focus on the micro-scratch surface left by the finishing materials and very distinct to the design of a particular engine. There was much more engineering and research on this aspect than one might assume. When the manufacturer recommends a specific oil type and viscosity range, they have some well researched reasons for their recommendations. Modern, low-friction piston ring design also factors into what the manufacturer tells us we should be using.
Thanks for the feedback.
You said what I came to say.
EPA probably is the most reason for the low vis oil and high mile oil change intervals.
@@DISOPtvexactly. Thinner oil gives better gas mileage. You’re trading off longevity for efficiency.
The engineers only job is to build an engine that is more efficient than previous generations. That’s all they care about. They only need it to outlast the warranty.
@@screaminlead I was just going to recommend the Total Seal videos on engine surface finishes as well.
Friction reduction has seemingly lost to fuel efficiency when it comes to the purpose of oils. I still run "thick" oil in the summer and lighter oil in the winter, glad to know that lessons from Papa still hold up🤙
Thanks for sharing.
I lived in Ohio. I had an 85 Ford F250 with the 6.9 IDI diesel engine. Ran 20w50 in the summer and 10w40 in the winter. No blow by 👌🏻
That logic checks out, I would be concerned about sludge buildup if you aren't really getting the engine up to operating temp for a sustained period of time. All oils do it, synthetic or conventional but synthetic seems to degrade worse in subpar conditions from what I've seen. Be well and make sure to keep your oil changes often and frequent...oil is cheap-ish while engines and repair bills are anything but🤙
I don't think "friction" as he tests it here really is how the engine sees friction. One thing he hasn't tested is "pumpability" when cold or hot. Probably way exceeds his method of testing for friction.
I could be wrong but I believe he has created a "backyard" version of the actual tests conducted industry wide🤷
With that said, the ability to pump the goo around at various viscosity levels is planned out heavily by manufacturers...unless you have minus 50°c for a month and freeze your coolant all should be fine under your hood👍
My last oil change on my 2016 Silverado, I mixed 0w-20 and 5w-30. The truck runs noticeable smoother. Next time it will be all 5w-30. Cold flow isn't a consideration as I live in the desert of Arizona.
If the car is older, you can use 10W40 in hot climate
I thought about doing the same on my JL wrangler... just to be safe....
After watching this video and forums....
My first oil change is coming up at 1500 and want to give it a head start on engine life by doing an early first change. And I live in Florida so it's rarely frigid here maybe a couple months of below 45* nights
@@wailingalenPersonally, my opinion on a new vehicle is to stay with the oil viscosity recommended by the manufacturer and what is says in the owner manual. Sometimes manufacturers will list more than 1 viscosity based on temps and usage, but usually it is just 1. If you use an oil that is not recommended and you end up with an engine problem under warranty, the dealer will void the warranty. And unfortunately today, manufacturers have more problems with new engines than you would think. Maybe you don't want to wait until the warranty is over, but it may be good to wait for a year or 2 and/or 15,000 miles or so... just to make sure. Also, if you can I would stay with the winter grade and only increase the grade for the hot weather viscosity. In other words, if it says 0W-20, think about 0W-30, or instead of 5W-20, go with 5W-30. You just don't want a high viscosity when you first start the car and before it is warmed up... I'm glad you are changing the oil at 1500 miles. Manufacturers say it is not necessary any longer, but I do that as well... Change the oil often and use a good filter; change fluids every 3 - 5 years or so; keep the air filter fresh; use fuel system cleaner (i like Chevron Techron); and drive it right... and it will last a very long time. I still drive a 22 year old Acura that runs like new with 238k miles on it..
Its important to remember that some newer cars have very thin oil galleries. Its not just about wear its about getting the oil through the galleries. If your oil is too thick and can't get through the galleries properly it doesn't matter how much wear protection it has cause your car will be getting very little oil on key components. .
@@mm-jx7gf you might want to be prudent with the fuel system cleaner, it's been shown to drop lubricity in your engine oil whilst it's in the system.
I love how clearly you speak, how little time you waste (see example: none) in getting the information down, and honestly, I can tell you really enjoy cracking these questions open. One of the best channels on RUclips period, not just by genre, but entirely. Keep having fun, I'll keep watching!
Thanks so much!
I have to disagree. As someone with hearing impairment, his rapid speech is hard to follow. If I use the subtitles, then I'm forced to maintain a focus on the subtitles and lose most of the video. But I still love the channel. @@ProjectFarm
Ever think about watching twice? I'm dyslexic, low IQ, ADD, hearing impaired & have poor eyesight so l replay stop and make notes so l can get the message. This is one of if not the best channels for information.
@@FrankenDoctor With all due respect, I have hearing impairment as well, with my midrange that is human voice basically causing it to sound muffled. Mr. Project Farm's voice seems to work just fine for me and I have no issue understanding him. I know it sounds like Mr. Obvious but I try to keep videos at a higher than normal volume level as it does help with the comprehension. You can also find a playback device that allows you to play with the equalization.
@@FrankenDoctorTry playing the videos at .75x speed.
Additives make a huge difference on wear. It would be interesting to also do a test with bearing material instead of, or in addition to, the test wheel & pin you are using. I'm pretty sure that is what oil companies tailor there additives to.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I'd also like to see it be done under pressure somehow, since this is how the engines runs.
These pins are often made from a standard ball bearing steel. 100Cr6 or 52100 I think is the yankee name. ;)
@@jackmclane1826 yes, but that’s not what rod and cam bearings are made of.
Valve lifters/tappets,cam lobes,piston rings/upper cylinder walls,also timing chain links/rollers. Ball pivots used under rocker arms and pushrod tips.
Some cam drive chains and sprockets may be larger/better than the minimum practice,also some modern engines use "roller lifters" to try to reduce demands on lubrication but then there is the axle that the roller rolls on !
The oils are constrained by the fact that the EPA does not like a lot of antiwear additive(s) because of the idea that if the engine is burning a bit more oil than desirable the additive might poison the catalytic converter. I believe EPA has even found a way to spread that to Diesel engine oil requirements. So that obsolete SG rated oil from a few years ago may have had better antiwear performance under adverse conditions than today's oils although such standards as "GF-6" or "GF-6A" are an attempt to come up with oil that will offer adequate protection even with the EPA not allowing much of traditional antiwear additive.
I believe the super long oil change distances being advertised by the car makers today are pushing the oil far beyond what is safe. I believe that the additives wear out. A broken in engine is easier to lubricate in my opinion than a brand new one.
ideally the connecting rod and crankshaft main bearings are "floated" in oil most of the time that the engine is running.
I’d love to see another motor oil showdown!
I love the oil tests
Thanks for the suggestion.
Love the channel but the oil stuff is pretty much beaten down. Hes probably done a dozen over the years and you can only test so much additives and hot/cold viscosity.
@@giggiddyDo maple syrup, then.
10w40 versus 20w50
Can you test, say, 10w-40 for lubricity and puring viscosity, example @ 30 degrees Celsius , and then test the 5w-20 @ 10 degrees Celsius also for lubricity and pouring to see if acts the same as the 10w-40 @ this temperature , or @ what temperature will be the same
Thanks for the suggestion.
A two stroke oil shoot-out like synthetic vs conventional vs caster bean oil would be awesome to see!
Make sure the 'gum up' factor is included. Castor oils gum up power valves badly.
Thanks for the suggestion.
It may start on fire. Somebody on RUclips tried olive oil and that happened.🔥
@@joewalla8438 all of those are in use now and have been for a long time.
The smoke factor should be measured in more than one way. Two smoke FTW!
Another great video. I'm old school and always thought a thicker oil was the way to go but I'm changing my thoughts a bit on the matter. I was always a 15w 40 guy in everything even small engines. I've never had an engine fail using it but sometimes colder starts were a problem. Then the 5w 40 diesel oils came out and I slowly switched everything to that. Boy did it make a difference in everything especially the diesels. I've come to the opinion that unless the engine is under maximum load and at high temperature all the time the thicker oils may not be necessary. Also oil pressure is an indicator of resistance to flow. So low oil pressure doesn't necessarily mean the engine is not getting oil. Engineering is constantly trying to improve fuel economy and I think that is a major factor, but also I think modern engines using thinner oils have a much higher oil pump volume to try to keep things cool. It's hard for an older guy to get his head wrapped around a 1.5 4 cylinder stock engine producing 250+ hp. Most all auto engines have oil coolers today and that says something. More power in a small package turning higher rpms and a turbo or 2 make a lot of heat and thinner oils flowing faster pick up more heat and carry it away for cooling . Sorry long winded but I'm always trying to learn and understand
I think you will find most modern engines employ a coolant to oil heat exchanger, not just an oil cooler.
newer engines usually have a cylinder that's purposely designed to be micro porous, it means they actually hold onto thinner oils but struggle with thicker ones, couple this with reduced friction piston rings, tighter journals , oil passageways and bore sprayers designed specifically for thinner oils to flow through them it makes it a bad idea to put thicker oils in them. Even though the thicker oil itself is technically a better lubricator when put in a modern engine it actually lubricates worse and can potentially even cause issues.
Another thing to note is that a lot of new economy engines are direct injection which usually results in more carbon build up around the valves over time so using a thicker oil with less additives could increase the amount of carbon build up over time.
@@axeami1354 this all makes sense but then Toyota will specify 5w-20 in Europe and 0w-16 in the US for the same engine. If everything else were equal wouldn’t it make sense to equalize the oil specifications? Others reflexively scream CAFE but I’m not so sure
You grasped a lot of things most struggle with, a lighter oil doesn't necessarily mean less protection, because oil flow plays a lot into it.
@@tjm3900 exactly, it warms the oil in cooler weather. Also aids in bringing engine up to stable temperature. I was going to mention it but I figured I was a little long winded as it was
Hey Todd, have you thought about doing the bearing test AFTER freezing the oil? It would be interesting to see how each oil performs on a bearing when frozen.
I've wondered that. The thing is, once you actually get to the testing part, the oil has warmed up. You've got a good idea, but it might be difficult to test.
Thanks for the video idea.
5 gallon bucket and some dry ice could help keep the oil cold while set up takes place.
@@TheCAD66
That's a good idea!
@@TheCAD66
Just put the oil directly into the test cup and freeze it. Go from the freezer to the testing rig.
Wish you would do a comparison of all 0w16 oil and see how it stacks up against penzoil ultra platinum 0w20. Toyota says you can run 0w20 if 0w16 isn't available but you must switch back to 0w16 on the next oil change. Any explanation? Would 0w20 give better protection with film strength? What if we continued use of 0w20 and neglected to go back to 0w16? What harm if any could be done.
the difference between 20 and 16 is meaningless. I wouldn't worry for one second about this.
This is hands down the #1 most useful channel on RUclips. I've learned so much from you.
Thanks so much!
I'd argue it's the most useful for analysing oil and tools etc... But that's it. I'd give Kurzgesagt the prize for most useful overall
@@StephenDeTomasi Kurzgesagt is extremely educational, but 99% of what they teach is not actionable. This channel gives education that makes an impact on my daily life.
In extreme cold the oil getting there quickly is far more important than anything else.
I think a different low temp test should be added to represent the situation most people are in during winter, such as zero degrees F.
@@bills6093Did you watch the video?
@@Dr-RUclips Yes, his freezer is at -40F, a test which doesn't mean much to most of us.
But an engine block heater makes that a moot point as the oil won't be -40. Also it should still be coated from the last time it ran, unlike in the test where it gets cleaned between uses.
@@Dr-RUclipswhat hes saying is also test the cold oil from 0°F not just warm new and -40 because a majority of people arent going to see -40 temps where they live
I'm wondering if you could do your tests with the oil at operating temp and see if the results would be different. Love your content!👍
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
Great idea!
Yes, please do an operating temp test. The oil behaves totally different vs room temp.
@@corruption1724 From listening to engine racing techs, they said you use a thicker oil because it becomes thinner as temps rise and act like a thinner oil. I would believe if you are just driving back and forth to work and store you wont have to worry too much tho.
- Indeed. Under normal driving conditions and of course with proper maintenance of the car, we should not worry too much about the oil if it matches the specs.
In my Beemer X5 3.0D = Shell Helix Ultra, it is equivalent to the Penz.
Furthermore, I only recommend XL Boosted from Amsoil, absolutely top quality, smoother engine, visco is maintained, temperature of the engine remains optimal. Etc. To buy!@@wanglee21
We dont use all this thin oils in eu all cars i own use 0-30 or 5-40 + there is no point using to thin oil if u dont live in extreme cold climate. Now days summers are so hot so 5-40 is better for protection
It would be interesting to see a comparison between some of the newer "Hybrid Engine Oils" (Mobil1, Valvoline) compared against their "Regular" variants. Maybe add some tests with impurities/fuel dilution to see how they hold up? Always love your content!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm Could you test silicone "oil" in place of crank case oil?
@aboy467 I'd like to see this as well.
Would love to see a comparison of oil filters. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, will do! Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarmDon't forget the cartridge style filters for us Europeans, some ford like the F-150 use them too.
Toyota is now using 0W8 in the new hybrid engines, BMW is also using 0W12 is some of their new ones too. Crazy! Even more important to keep the oil fresh in those engines!
Thank you for sharing!
can't wait for 0W0!
If they are designed for it, it should be no problem. Bigger bearing surfaces and smaller clearances.
Just pour water in the crank case at that point.
Thanks for sharing.
You should have more subscribers than those mindless “ influencers”. You’re videos are thorough, and the normal individual would never be able to spend the money to test the unending amount of products you test weekly. Thanks man… love the videos.
Thanks and you are welcome!
ABSOLUTELY, THEY ARE HERE TO DISCREDIT REALITY
Project Farm is a true America treasure ! Thank you Sir for these fantastic tests.
You are a blessing. 👍
Thanks so much!
World treasure.
Great test. I never run a 20 weight in a turbo charged engine but that's where the manufacturers are going because of CAFE averages. I realize you have to tell people to follow the manufacturers recommendations because of the liability issue but they really don't care how long your engine lasts as long as it makes it past the warranty period. VW had a 7 year or 70 thousand mile warranty before they switched to 0W-20. Then they dropped the warranty to 4 years or 50 thousand miles. They wouldn't have done that unless they don’t have faith in the oil they're recommending.
Exactly what I was saying yesterday. Glad others are catching on the gimmick. Also don't trust the engine oil life indicator light. Just use full synthetic engine oil and change it at least twice a year even if you don't drive over the mileage limit.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
VW has a 6/72K warranty for only 2018 and 2019 model years. They did it to help potential buyers feel good about the company again. Remember that they got caught cheating on their diesel emissions. They were fined and had to buy back cars from their customers (or provide other remedies). It had nothing to do with 0W20 motor oil.
If you look at the reason VW motors fail, it's not for lack of lubrication. Most times it's due to overheating. Their cooling system is overly complex and there are many places a coolant leak can occur. I've blown up two 2.0L VW motors in the past 4 years. Coolant leaks and runs low, then the motor overheats. Of course not temp gauge, so by the time the dummy light comes on, the motor is cooked!
Eurocars need a 30 or 40 weight period.
Their engines are not build for thinner oils.
@@alouisschafer7212 5W40 synthetic is recommended on most newer European cars, or at least it was.
As shown on the bearing test the 5W-30 had the least amount of wear. Protect your engine.
The only reason the 5W-20,0w-20 and 0W-16 exist is due to the EPA push for higher mpg standards.
I had relatives working at auto factories that saw the EPA reports mandating it.
I was wondering about that. My 2014 Toyota Prado lists a range of oils to use given the max/min temperature, and you can basically use anything when in the range of 0-40 deg. c
I believe hybrid vehicles especially plug in hybrids require thinner oil. Since the engine is not always running, thinner oil flows better at lower temp
I have a question though. Does engine wear happen mostly when cold starting? And if it is so, what kind of tests would reflect the effects of viscosity on engine wear?
An idea comes to mind, start/stopping the wheel 100 times without pre-oiling them. Would that be more reflective of real world circumstances?
It only makes sense that a thinner oil will provide less protection from wear. I always used 10W30 (I'm 81 and pretty set in my ways), but I have never had car that called for these thin oils. My vehicle is a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the straight 6 cylinders. It has 240,000 miles on it and I have only used 10W30 in it, which is getting harder to find.
EPA doesnt give a damn about your engine, if you need to buy a new one is more money (and taxes) for the government
Yes! I requested this topic. Thanks so much for testing this.
Problem is the manufacturer doesn’t always have the customer in mind. They often engineer things to bring in more service otherwise their goal would be longevity but longevity doesn’t keep stealerships happy.
Thank you for sharing!
💯
You make an excellent point. I think manufacturers can be trusted as far as which viscosity to use but the oil change intervals is where they get you. My recommendation is to use the viscosity they call for but under no circumstance would I wait for an oil life monitor to tell me its time for a service.
If someone can’t easily figure out what engine oil their vehicle takes than they have no business doing their own oil change.
I agree. I’ll put more trust in the recommendation of the man who fixes the broken car than the recommendation of the one who designed it to break at a pre determined point.
Your dedication to these tests are incredible! thanks for all you do.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Very interesting! As an old timer it's hard for me to wrap my head around the idea that you should use the same 0w-20 motor oil whether you live on a permanent glacier where anything above freezing is considered a heatwave, or, like myself, you live in desert where you put on a sweater when temps drop below 80. I'm going to need more than just a manufacturer recommending that, because as an ex dealer tech I've seen manufacturers recommend some pretty stupid things over the years. Things that are designed to make them money, not extend the life of the vehicle. And before y'all start typing, remember that oil temp and coolant temps are NOT the same thing.
Id say in the end it comes down to the actual oil temp.
The higher they climb = the thinner the oil gets its as simple as that
If you open your owners manual it will have alternate oils than what's on the cap.
My 18 f150 says 5w30 on the cap, but in the manual 5w40 is still in the temperature range... (although 5w30 would be better for me in winter).
If you run a block heater 24/7 then your engine never cools down and your oil doesn't break down the viscosity
I can get 10,000 miles between oil changes if I use a block heater
@@thecloneguyz running a block heater 24/7 is absolutely insane.
You are wasting more money on electricity than changing your oil every month.
Thanks for the feedback.
The best automotive channel for me, straight to the point, no click bait, no gimmick, no weird music 😎
Thanks!
What I’ve always found interesting is how manufactures recommend different weight oils for identical vehicles with identical engines in different markets.
For example my SVT Focus is recommended 5w-20 in the USA but 5w-30 in Europe. My Mazda Skyactiv-G 2-5l NA is recommended 0w-20 in USA and Canada, and 0w-16 in Japan, which has almost identical climate swings to the continental USA, and interestingly, 5w-20 in Mexico, which presumably doesn’t even need Winter-certified oil, or thin starting weight for that matter.
Seemingly same oils in different markets can have totally different compositions, might be a factor?
@@Broeils wow, never actually thought about that but you’re probably right. Good chance the regulatory bodies in different countries have different standards.
@@emotionz3 there's also different emissions regulations in different areas, and oil choice can impact emissions testing, and they probably have to test with the recommended oil.
@@emotionz3 No, the oils sold have the same composition - if they are meeting the same standards. And since they are shipped World Wide - such and such Penzoil Platinum Full Synthetic - 5w-30 will have exactly the same spec's anywhere.
@@daves7775 Many manufacturers order their oils in local refineries. Unless they control every batch, you do not really know if the oil meets the original specs. Only few companies produce their oils 100% by themselves and ship it worldwide
It will on an 07 yaris made for 5w30 when you somehow manage to not only grab 0w20 but to put it in and run it. Instant oil glitter, but after 5k miles of 1000 mile oil changes with cheap conventional 5w30, it didn't even knock.
Great information on the impact of the low viscosity oil.
Always a great video, love the breakdowns and simplicity for anyone to understand. keep up the amazing work man, thank you for another great video
Appreciate it!
I just LOVE all the efforts and details taken to make all your tests. Kudos and keep them coming.
Thanks, will do!
As you said in the very end, use what the manufacturer calls for. Bearing clearances are getting tighter than ever and if you use a 5w-30 or higher in something designed for 0w-20 or 0w-16, you might not be getting good oil flow to each area of friction, and the same can be said if you use thinner oil when it should be thicker. Extreme climates might change what you want to use though.
But most of your wear will be a result of choosing to go way too long without changing your oil, especially on engines notorious for burning it. 5,000 miles max since modern engines use oil to do so much more than just lubricate the crankshaft and camshafts.
I feel like I started a war here. The oil consumption is generally from low tension piston rings, but some engines are notorious for this being a severe problem where others it's just a meh issue. There are additives out there that go in prior to changing the oil to "dissolve" hardened oil deposits that cause those rings to stick. Just change your oil regularly and learn to check it yourself so you know if you're low or not, your favorite in and out quicklube is just going to drain and refill, they dont check for that stuff.
@@bywonline Who said you can't run 30 in a track car?
I'd tend to agree. Originally I discovered that Ford specified 0W20 to assist in passing EPA fuel economy tests, so I then began using 10W30 in vehicles that were spec'ed at 0W20 with zero issues. This was a deliberate decision on my part after significant research to guard against excessive wear. Fast forward a couple decades, and I tried the same thing in a 3.5l Honda Odyssey...BIG mistake. The bottom end on the Honda 3.5 would take the thicker viscosity just fine, but the oil passages in those VTEC heads certainly couldn't, and complained with a significant amount of clatter on cold starts. I'm trying to get the thicker oil flushed out but 2 changes later the valvetrain still clatters a bit on cold starts.
Good Point!
So for your next car people find a car with an engine that is port/direct injection as well as something that uses 5w30 oil so it does not wear as much
Remember y’all, some parts of the world don’t even have 0W20 for the same engines! If you look at oil charts for various makes and models you’ll see it everywhere from 0W20 here in North America to a 50wt in the Middle East. The “ideal” viscosity for protection and cold and hot flow is 5W30 (North America). Ford never changed their engine designs in the early 2000’s. The CAFE dictated and oil companies sold to them and they retested their engines on 5W20. The same reason why BMW M engines had rod bearing failures running 10W60 🙈. It’s not “clearances” that matter what matters is protection. 5W30 is already pretty thin…
My understanding is that most of the wear occurs on a dry start up, before the oil arrives to the overhead valve train. That's why the friction tester wheel is coated with oil prior to testing. Wouldn't the much faster cold flow of the 0W-16 more than compensate for the decreased wet protection? Especially in vehicles driven short distances?
There's a large factor that never gets discussed, and that is thermal expansion. An engines machined clearances are tested and engineered to be correct --- at full temp. The bearing clearances are effectively incorrect at cooler temps, and accounts for much of start up wear.
I use it Lucas syn on all oil changes, 185300miles going strong, one bottle per change.
Heavier oils will leave more of a film behind than water, oops, 0w16 does...
Thanks for all the effort you put in your videos, maybe you can include a 20W-50 and 15W-50 in a future video, here in Brazil 20W-50 is very common because of older cars and hot weather.
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
Same here in South Africa. I would also like to see how the oils in this video do at high temperature on the wear tester. To simulate using it in 30-40 centigrade.
Gulf countries do that too.
6:25 yes! Thanks for letting people know this. Also the "S" that they have dropped off the end (10w30s) stood for Summer. Before multi viscosity oils folks would change viscosities for hot and cold seasons.
I remember my previous car (a 04 Seat Leon Cupra R) having such a note in its manual. It had the old oils in it you needed to change between summer and winter and the newer multi viscosity ones.
I love how you always explain the standards you are working against so every video can be watched as a standalone. Makes it easier to share the video with the folks I discuss them with.
Thanks!
Thx u so much I’ve been waiting for this review!
I think it would be a good video to test all 4 oils in your truck. Run 1000 to 3000 miles then do a oil sample test after each oil! Thanks for all your hard work!
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
caballeroloco............why don't you try it in your truck, anybody can get oil samples done.
I sent my Italian Iveco 6 cylinder Turbo charged diesel engine using Ams Oil 15-40W diesel with a by pass oil filter system that was like 2or3 microns. I sent my oil sample in at 15,000 miles it came back with a clean bill of health, I the tried the same oil at 25,000 miles and it was still OK? The trick was I changed the engine twin oil filters at about 7,500 miles and I kept the 3 or 4" diameter by about 12" inches Ams by pass oil filter till only one half of the filter was still hot and the other half much cooler? An engineer taught me that trick as that large oil filer was very expensive my engine went 350,000 miles when I parked it 20 years later as finding parts were very hard to get in the United States. I find it Odd the the same engine and Turbo charger was still good when I parked the truck?
Yes, because the test will show more results on where and tare. What components are worse. The 30w wate should be better for where. 16w whatever seems to thin depending on how hard you run your vehicle's.
@@77.88. I do the same on my Chevy cruze. It maybe where'd but it beats changing my oil like a idiot every 3,000 miles. I only do it once a year. It's the best feeling ever. Lots of pride saying so too. I run amsoil signature series 0w20
You're the absolute best at independent product testing. I work in quality assurance, and I find your DOE to be top notch. Thank you!
Thanks!
SLOW DOWN YOUR TALKING!
Good grief, you throw data and facts around as fast as possible...
Hard to keep up and have to watch over and over to pick up the pieces.
Don't think anyone has ever commented on this, but the tight vocal editing, is always a plus point, and I appreciate it. Your videos are concise, informative, and still yet through.
Thanks so much!
I love your videos there’s no beating around the bush always straight to the point. I rely on your testing before I buy anything. Thank you brother for the honesty 💪💪🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks and you are welcome!
I think we'll be using 0W-5 in the future & changing it every 1,000 miles to get an extra 1/2 mpg. Funny but I remember being reluctant to go from 10W-40 to 10W-30.
Thanks for sharing.
Toyota is on 0w-8 now, absolutely nuts. BUT I guess as clearances get tighter and tighter, thicker oils are no longer really necessary.
they will going to the point of use diesel as a lube lol
@@williamglendye1692 I hope not.
5w 30 an Lucas syn additive all the time works for me..
Even 5W-30 is very thin. I used to use 15W-40 in winter and 20W-50 in summer. Now I use 10W-40 all season due to fuel consumption.
Thanks for the feedback.
Would love to see hot temp oil comparisons. like 5w to 20w and up to 30-50. Much appreciated.
Thanks for the suggestion.
This channel should be considered a national treasure.
not only can I not tell you how many PF videos I have watched, but I have watched MANY of them more than once.
Such a good channel.
Another well done video much appreciated!😊
If you consider it, it is!
Thanks so much!
I believe Project Farm is recognized unofficially at least as the goto for product test results because of his scientific method, testing multiple ways, and objectively stated results.
*International treasure
Greetings from Germany :)
The most important part of the video was at the end differ to the OEM recommendation on oil viscosity. Don’t just throw a 0w16 at your engine if it calls for a 10w40.
If you live in a hotter climate use the higher viscosity of oil recommended if it’s colder vice versa.
The only thing you should probably take into question is the oil change intervals especially with forced induction engines.
Thanks for the feedback.
Great to see someone finally put evidence behind the anecdote. Sacrifice a tiny bit of fuel economy and get a FAR longer lasting engine. I run 20w30 in my Ls1 statesman and it's got over 500,000kms on it. Doesn't burn oil, never smokes and has never been rebuklt
Thanks!
@damnnyiffers oil weight is just one factor. There is also how it is driven(harsh winters? Hot summers? lots of stop and go city driving? Lots of highway driving? Lots of idle time or very little? Etc), and oil change frequency.
@@steve8803 oil weight is by far the most important factor for conventional engines which do not specify 0w16 or lower. once you get into 0w16 the viscosity is not the most important consideration, bearing surface treatment technology reigns supreme.
question; do the crank shaft bearings have a tighter clearance with an engine designed for 0w20? If so using a 5w30 may cause issues with the bearings,
That is what I would like to know. I did not have to watch this video to learn that thinner oil will go faster, evaporate more and make bigger wear scar.
Yes
I doubt it. In my Kia Sportage requiring 5W20 on the oil cap, it started knocking on start up, took it in for warranty repair and the couldn't reproduce the problem, they bumped me up to 10w30.
Most, if not all, new Toyotas require 0W-16, I'd never seen that oil weight before getting a '19 Camry. They're pretty strict, too - if you don't have 0W-16, you can use 0W-20, but must return to 0W-16 at the next oil change. Unfortunately, at least around where I am, only the dealer has 0W-16 available. Seeing how free-flowing the 0W-16 is, I can understand why it's recommended for use - Canadian winters can be cold!
CTC sells Mobil 1 0w16 fyi
Thanks for sharing.
Allot of the hybrids use it and I can see why when the engine is stopping and starting the oil need to arrive quickly.
in the mediterranean, even official toyota dealers use 5w-30. 0w-whatever can be brought in at a special order and a ridiculous price.
Just for consideration, that late model Chevrolet showed in your video does not use an actual oil pressure gauge, but a “dummy” gauge which is programmed to stay at an approximate position as long as the pressure sensor sees X_psi minimum.
Yes, they are just an on & off switch mounted to the engine. The dash is an estimate based off of RPM.
@@duramax74 heck my Colorado does not have an oil pressure gauge at all, well it has one in the trip computer on the cluster but not a needle like my 1995 S-10 did.
And now Toyota has 0w8....how big will that scar be?
I love all your videos it’s definitely helped me make some buying decisions in the past. Just a suggestion though I’d love to see you add the bearing test with the cold oils to the videos. Best way I could think to simulate starting your car in the cold of winter and letting it warm up before driving.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
The high wear rates in a real world engine when it is cold are likely due in part to the presence of condensed water and liquid fuel removing some of the oil film from engine wear areas. Especially the upper cylinder and piston rings. @@ProjectFarm
0w20 or less are for CAFE not for your Engine!
Agreed.
I have a question. If the W is only affecting the thickness for winter, why use 5 or 10W at all? Why wouldnt you just want 0W so you dont have to worry about it reaching bearings and stuff on startup?
exactly, i also wonder why don't they standardize 0W and increase the 16-20-30-40 etc? :/
0w/30 kills timing chains 70k and it’s f**ked. Use 5/30 unless you like supporting the parts department. Same with transmission oils. Good old 75w90 stops the bearings going.
Why? Once the motor is warm, it's going to act like 30...
Nice video Todd. The heat test with the 0W-16 oil was a loss of 6.36 grams and not 4.36 grams. it started at 412.12 grams and ended at 405.76 grams.
Thanks!
It also doesn't make sense to use the total weight lost since the starting weights are never exactly the same. Percent lost is the what we actually want to know.
@@unitedgray I think the weights were close enough that percentage loss wouldn't make that big a difference.
Awesome content as always. One word of caution though. The OEM oil pressure gauges on cars are not always accurate by design. Some operate like on/off switches and are there to just report any pressure. As an example miatas are notorious for this.
I'm pretty sure all fords trucks since the 80's are like this. Just an idiot gauge. Pretty easy to tell tho, they only ever read 0 or 60ish %.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
I’ve heard that using the lighter weight oils helps with fuel economy slightly due to the easier flow and that’s why all the manufacturers are going that direction with oils.
Everything today is aimed toward improved fuel economy or less pollution, and as long as things don't break or die under warranty that's all they care about. When an engine wears the bearing clearances get larger, so these super-thin oils aren't going to perform as well compared to new. IMHO this is why we're seeing some nasty semi-high mileage lubrication failures in certain engines today. The smarter approach might be to increase viscosity one step when miles go high and the oil pressure isn't what it once was.
Thanks for the feedback.
The thicker weight oil is definitely better for those idling all day long and restarting with luke warm to hot engines and driving continuous in long distance application.
While the thinner oil are mostly for people do mostly normal cold starts in temperatures of 30° Celsius down to -20° Celsius type of drivers in short cities stop and start style.
Unfortunately its nothing about clearances of the bearings. Its about the Rings having ultra low friction.@@P_RO_
Agree
I think you're missing something in the tests though. I was working with a race team and spoke to mobile 1 engineers. The way you're putting the two surfaces together doesn't really exist in a modern engine. So they design the oil to work in places like the crank barring where its a cylinder riding inside a cylinder. The oil is supposed to create viscous barrier for the crank, cam, oil pump, rocker arms to float on. The viscous barrier works like a needle barring. As it heats up the round molecules of the oil breaks down. The larger the weight the larger the molecule. The trick and where they made their money was calculating the perfect weight. What they wanted was the most molecules that could be effectively fit into the viscous barrier while also protecting the handful of direct wear sites like your test.
Very good point, thanks!
What happens on cold start ups, or high g oil pick up starvation on the race track with non dumped street cars? Thin oil does not provide the same film. Lack of film creates hot spots on the bearings/and can also result in actual wear on rod bearing surfaces/cam lobes
Auto manufacture have made oil decisions based on cafe and tree huggers for the last 10-15 years, not on actual bearing clearances.
It would probably be very difficult to do, but being able to test wear resistance while the oil is very hot would be cool. Them being at room temperature is closer to winter viscosity than hot viscosity. I wonder if they would be closer at those higher temps.
Thanks for the feedback.
Love when he drops videos. Bought 3 products because of his reviews
Thank you!
Greatly appreciate putting the stick with the what the manufacturer recommends. The thicker oil maybe provide better wear protection, but will definitely cause more damage when used in the wrong application. Unfortunately people may not understand that the oil recommended by the manufacturer is based on bearing clearances and other tolerances.
Thanks!
I understand where your coming from. But in the real world, I have used thicker oil for hundreds of thousands of miles with no engine damage.
The manufacturers are very concerned about EPA fuel mileage mandates because they get fined if they are not reached. Lighter oils give higher mileage. Whether the engine lasts 200 or 300 thousand miles is not their concern.
@@Olds_Pwr you've put 5w-30 when it calls for 0w-16?
@@drewhh6821 No.
Dear Project Farm,
Thank you for the informative videos that have real world application.
If I may suggest the following:
1. Calculate the weight loss due to evaporation as a percentage of the total initial weight.
2. Weigh the pins before and after and calculate percentage lost due to wear.
I look forward to many new videos.
You are welcome! Thanks for the constructive feedback.
I switched to 5w30 from 0w20 last year. Mobil 1. Car makers want higher mileage numbers at the cost of the engine. I also change my oil often and earlier than recommended. I live in the South. No cold weather. Good test. Thank you
Thank you for sharing!
Mine calls for 10w30 but I use 10w40. Completely agree with you.
@@Gobbbbb At 10w-30 you are already at the upper end of viscosity. Completely unnecessary to switch to 40.
@@moshet842 With an air cooled engine in 25c+ weather, I'll stick to using the higher viscosity. There may be not much of a difference, but the 10w40 oils here in the UK are considerably cheaper and have slight better protection. It's a no brainer.
@@Gobbbbb Oh, you didn't say it was air-cooled. Keep doing what you are doing then.
It‘s an awesome video as always.
For the car guys, keep in mind that modern cars are usually equipped with an oil-cooler that helps keeping the viscosity stable and the evaporation rate low. That results in different operating conditions between the low viskosity stuff and the multi-grade stuff.
Thank for sharing.
Oil cooler isn't gonna do much to the extreme temps the oil sees above the oil control ring. 0w-16 and 0w-20 is all epa bullshit so cars can get like 1 mpg better at the expense at blowing up right after the warranty expires.
@@dkis8730Good thing I have a lifetime power train warranty on my Camry 😁
How is 412.12 -405.76=4.36 grams? IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN 6.36 GRAMS LOST!
Interesting that two zero base oils flow so differently. I always thought the 0 was the carrier oil and viscosity modifiers gave you the second number as the oil heated up?
The "0w" figure is actually a relative calculation based on the hot weight. So, a 0w-40 and 0w-20 are *not* the same viscosity at low temps. It's relative because the way oil chemistry is manipulated to accomplish this is also relative; they add VII's (Viscosity Index Improvers) to the oil. These are long chain polymers that permit the oil to be thin at low temps, but remain thicker at higher temps. The more you add, the further away you get from the hot number (20/30/40/50, etc). But it's always relative to that hot number. SO, a 0w-20 will always be thiner at say 0F than a 0w-30, and that 0w-30 will always be thinner at 0F than a 0w-40, etc etc.
I hear some new Toyota calls for 0W-8 motor oil...seems crazy to me to use something so thin. Kinda sounds like they're sacrificing engine longevity for lower friction/better fuel economy
If it keeps going , soon it will be just 0...
Thanks for sharing.
Pretty soon Toyota will be calling for thin air instead of oil for lubrication. Gotta save themselves ¢ on CAFE fines
it sounds that way because that is EXACTLY what is happening.....use 5w-30
Miss the oil test videos. I know you can only test so much so many different ways but glad to see another classic from you Project Farm. Love the oil test videos 😂❤
Thanks!
I never heard of 0W-16 oil before this video. But these tests and this whole channel are amazing.
Well new yaris used 0w-8, you are just behind the times a bit.
I can't believe it never occurred to me before that he doesn't test wear prevention with hot oil! I wonder how much that would change the results of all the oil comparisons he's done...
That's a considerable factor because the oil will be thinner when it's hot, but the simulation *does* slightly heat up the oil. Barely at all, though.
That's a critical factor. The only things this video shows is that you shouldn't burn your oil in a coffee pot and 0w oil is thinner than 5w oil AT ROOM TEMPERATURE. Which is clearly visible you look at the chart and the only reasonable conclusion you can draw here. They will both have the same protection at operating temperature, the 0 just circulates earlier at cold temperatures. And yes if you don't do starts at -35C you should indeed stick to 5w. If you only started your engine at 90C you'd use a single rating oil like they do for track use.
_valid_ point there.. would be nice to see it at operating temperature.
Started using a synthetic 5W-30 in the mid 1980's. My dad said I was crazy to put such a thin oil in my car! After about 200,000 miles I gave him the car and he drove it for years.
What car was that🤔?
Thanks for sharng.
5W-30 is very thin for a 1980s car. Most 1980s classics want 10W-40 oil.
This is a great channel! As someone who builds race engines for a living I would strongly suggest staying with the recommended oil viscosity. The clearences in modern engines are very tight compared to 10years ago. Going from 0W16 to 5W30 can cause accelerated wear on bearings, piston to wall issues and piston rings.
Great test, keep them coming please.
Yes, this test doesn't seem to test differences in tolerances.
The lighter oil viscosity is also for the variable valve timing in modern engines
@@edbaczewski2959 I love how people are always looking for any reason why low viscosity oil is better. The truth is that it is not because viscosity is always closely related to lubricating properties.
In the eighties, the standard was 15w40, in the nineties, 10W40, etc. And everything worked great, including the variable valve timing, which was recently 50 years old, even though the world only knows it from the end of the 80s. Since then, every car manufacturer has named it after themselves, for example Vanos from BMW.
.
Do you manufacture racing engines for 0W16 or 5W30 viscosity oil?
@@MijanboyStraight 0 weight is used for qualifying in racing .
Thin Motor Oil? Well, Lk. Wales FL KIA dealer changed Spectra forever in 2011. They had these dispenser/spickets hangin' from ceiling, & injected H2O in crankcase for FLA - Mich trip. Silly me, said motor's get up & go, got up and went, but got to GA w/trailer in tow. Took sample of motor oil @Rest Area & IT WAS NOT FLAMABLE! Over filled w/real 10W30, & stopped @1st changer. They put in 2 qts 10W30 w/3 bottles Ethyl Alcohol, idled her about 10 minutes, drained her off, & refilled w/Real 10W20! Did I mention Kia Dealership changed hands shortly thereafter, or did you already have that down??
Great test. Love the oil tests you do! Suggestion: I would love to see an oil filter test.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
When we first got a carton of 0W-16 oil at my shop, I didn't think it was for a normal daily driven vehicle. I though it was some specialty performance oil for a 2 stroke or something. Just goes to show how much closer the tolerances are in these newer engines. I drive 20+ year old Japanese vehicles and run 10-W30 in them with no issues. It helps that it rarely gets below freezing here.
always hear that term "new tight tolerance engines". but in reality pretty much all tolerances have been the same since the 90s as far as japanese engines go. also the reason the idle oil pressure on his 2020 is so low at idle. same bearing tolerances but lower viscosity oil.
Thanks for sharing.
I realize this would be hard to test.... But I wonder what the wear scar test would look like at operating temps ~220f
Thanks for the suggestion.
You're of course 100% right, if you're implying that his wear scar test only proved that at room temp, the "W" weight is much more in play than the operating-temp weight. His bar graph conclusively proves only that 0W16 and 0W20 are both 0 weight at low/room temp, and that 5W20 and 5W30 are both 5 weight at low/room temp. You don't need to run a test to know that, you just need to read the label and look at a graph of viscosity vs temp.
@@EfficientRVer But it would be nice to prove 0W20 doesn't protect as well as the 0W30 if the temperatures are way up. Not one online viscosity chart supports 0W20 in climates over 70F.
I’ve set it before and I’ll say it again. Hands down best RUclips channel I’ve found. No long intros, no selling merch, just straight to the point in under 10 min.
Thanks!
I have been asking myself this question with all the 5W-30 oils that are recommended just to save the tiniest bit of fuel compared to the 5W-40 that I usually use, especially in older engines (I have a Benz and an F-Body from the 90s).
on new cars, the thin oil is really important. older cars, it's not such a big deal. apparently the new cars have thinner channels and avoiding all the technical jargon about how the oil is circulated and distributed, basically using a thicker oil in a 0w-15 recommended car is like using axle grease in a 10w-30 recommended motor. running dry for longer at every start, causing damage. it probably does save fuel, but it's not the only reason for the change over time. hope this helps out somehow.
@@SneakySolidSnake The point is that on older cars the protection layer might be too thin and such thin oils could also create leaks.
Now the 5w-30 is actually considered thick !
I believe that some of this spooky thin oil stuff is driven by car makers trying to avoid CAFE penalties,that would explain the different oil viscosity required in different countries in the same engine.
I think only with synthetic oil technology can even the 5w-30 oils and 0w-40 oils be made that won't fail miserably in use.
One thing to remember is that the same horrible technology that Cadillac used to call "V8-6-4" is back,it requires rapid flow of oil upon the command to pump up or collapse valve lifters and engines that have that may malfunction unless using spooky thin oil. Also known as "displacement on demand" or "cylinder deactivation" I think some cars from Honda,GM and Chrysler/Dodge are using it to meet CAFE
Normally, your tests compare apples to apples. This one was comparing apples to oranges. Tests like these fail to take several important factors into account:
1. Engine Temperature. Engines that run hotter are designed for thicker oils. For example, many dodge engines run around 210-213°F, and run 5W20. However, engines that run on 0W16 for example run much cooler around 180°F, so the tests here cannot be as fairly applied.
2. Manufacturer design tolerances. If you attempt to run 5W30 in an engine designed for 0W16, the odds are very good that the engine will starve of lubrication. The design tolerances are much tighter on more modern engines, and the oil pumps can only produce the needed pressure to maintain that lubrication on thinner oil. Running wear tests without pressurized oil does not put the oil in the designed conditions for it to be effective, so of course the 5W30 will have "better" results. If you can produce a rig that tests it as it would function inside an engine, then you will have a better test overall, and the two oils would perform about the same.
3. Modern VVT systems and valve trains that demand thinner oil to run correctly. Since flow rate is a function of viscosity and temperature, thinner oils are required for quicker responses to changing engine conditions.
Final note, that chevy in the end was not running at a healthy oil pressure. Idle pressures on those should be in the neighborhood of 35-45 psi warmed up. If it's showing 20 psi, a few things are possibly wrong, such as poor oil quality, bad sensor, ignored maintenance etc.
Just my two cents. Normally your tests are excellent. Don't stop what you do! You helped me pick what vice I now use!
I'm just glad you specified to stick to the recommended oil per car as my dad failed to do that in one of my first truck and ended up clogging up my oil pump and the pumps intake screen because the oil was to thick and started sludging up within a 3000 mile range
Thanks for sharing.
What were the grades?
summer here exceeds over 45c. Engines without active oil cooling suffer.
I prefer my 10w60 even if i have to wait a bit at mornings.
At winters, a 5w40 is perfectly fine for our climate. We never had too cold winters to use 0w oil grades. (Greece) i might say that even 5w is way too low for our winter
Would love to see this style of video on transmission fluid!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarmEspecially OEM toyota and honda fluid vs Valvoline Maxlife.