@@winebartender6653 depends on the cause of the preignition. if the a/f is auto igniting, then retarding engine spark may not do anything. Also if it is spark related, generally you can only retard so far before the engine is not able to retard anymore, and there is also a possibility that the pressure spike is fast can still cause damage if it creates enough pressure. not saying that this will happen, but it's a possibility compared to a blanket state of it isn't really going to harm the engine.
Ah. So weak, low SAPS with ZDDP a distant memory? Thanks, but no thanks. I'll keep putting Diesel oil in my flat-tappet gasser; specifically oil that meets Ford's more stringent cam wear rules. Everybody scared about the cat...don't let the oil into the combustion chamber; it cannot get to the cat to poison it!
Neen using mobil 0w-40 in my bmw 325i for going on 10 years. Over 200k now, changed sparkplugs for the second time now, no oil burn on any of the cylinders. I love it.
I use Toyota's 5W-30 every 5K miles or 6 mos. in my wife's 2002 Highlander with 284K miles (we bought it new). Still see nice crosshatching on the cylinders, valve train is immaculate and car runs like a clock.
Been driving a 99 MB E320 for 16yrs and it now has 160k miles. Used only M1 0W40 per spec sheet but didn't know about this interesting new information. I put about 6k miles/yr on it so only change oil once a year. Pulled the valve covers last year for gasket replacement and lifters etc. looked almost new. Had a very slight tinge that I attribute to the original owner using Castrol for a couple of years. I'll definitely research this more as I have a 12qt box in the garage now.
Was searching for this video to share with my wife's service technician, that repairs her gdi turbo vehicle, the oil has worked well over the past 5 years and the engine is cleaner than others that have been using the Hyundai oil, but will look into the research.
Same here Bill. I started using this oil when I was working in Northern Alberta in the winter of 2008 and had trouble cold starting with 15W-40 at -50 C. (even with the block heater plugged in). After switching over to 0W-40 Synthetic my Dirtymax started much easier. Sometimes I mix a 5 litre jug of Motomaster OE Plus 0W-40 (Shell) with Mobile 1 - 0W-40 (4.73 litres) because between the 2, I get exactly the 9.73 litres I need when using a Castrol 9100 Premium Oil Filter. And of course I always buy my oil on sale.
@@somerled3787 Good stuff somerled! It's all about lubrication. Give your engine lubrication, always, and keep it clean :-). Cheers my fellow Max owner
I use this 0w40 mobil one in a 2007 tundra v8 5.7 with 360k miles and the engine sounds better and v8 supercharged do not use the 0w20 in my experience i like more the 0w40.
I've been using this oil in my 2001 VW TDi diesel for the 20 years I've owned it. I thought it had the specs called for this engine. Car still runs fine and used about
Hi Lake. Thank u for what u do. I've seen ftir from other places and the nice thing about the "fs" is they also confirmed Ester, pao, and gtl base. Which on my opinion, for the $... It is a really good base oil (not talking about the calcium and lspi issue). But the new "sp" rated seems like it would b a really high quality oil. But I found that they have changed their new formula to group 3 according to the ftir tests. Also the 5w50 fsx2 was the same way. That's unfortunate because the 5w50 fs is what I was using just for the reason of the strong base-oil formulation. The "fs" oils seemed to b the exception of other Mobil 1's which weren't that great. The "fs" seemed to b a step above w the pao, Ester and gtl. I was very impressed. And the 5/50 was my favorite. I honestly thought the "fs" stood for full-synthetic and was a European designation demand to determine true group 4 and 5? But now it appears the "fs" is just group 3 like the rest of their oil. I know group 3 doesn't mean it's no good... I understand that. But the gtl, pao, and Ester is kinda a notch above for base oil. What r your thoughts on all this? Can u confirm or deny the formula change. And is it just the 5w50 fs that was changed or all the "fs"? Thanks so much!
When i first bought my Cayman i was using the Mobile 0w-40 oil but the engine was a bit clackity, and then i switched to Liquimoly, ive been using the Molygen 5w-40 for the past year and my the car runs alot quieter and my oil analysis results actually improved.
I like that it's high detergents and has just a great Additive package. 3200ppm calcium is up there the highest ive ever seen was around 3600ppm would be nice to have more magnesium in there aswell though especially because magnesium is a better detergent for diesels. Id run this oil in any port injected gasoline engine that isnt affected by LSPI and that does not burn oil and/or has a particulate filter. For oil burners and really modern engines with advanced emissions control this oil isn't ideal too much calcium and ZDDP. It will foul CATs and plug particulate filters. A low ash oil with a lighter additive package is needed here. Seems like a great replacement for 5w30 grade oil. LSPM and residue buildup due to the way this oil is formulated is 100% an issue with affected engines so I would be careful there.
This looks great for my 6.2 liter ford engine especially like the slightly thicker than 5w30 rating. It's amazing how the 6.2 went from 5w20 recommendation to 5w30 recommendation the year it was dropped from the F-150
Pre-ignition isn't detonation. Detonation occurs after the spark event and pre-ignition occurs when the air/fuel charge is ignited prior to the spark event. Additionally, detonation occurs when the air/fuel charge stops burning prematurely. Peak cylinder pressure should occur at 14 degrees ATDC. If peak cylinder pressure occurs too early in the compression stroke following the spark event, this suggests detonation is occuring. If air/fuel charge ignition occurs prior to the spark event, you can anticipate immediate engine damage.
Very good writeup. Most people confuse preignition and detonation although it’s been described in glory details by Harry Ricardo, who invented the octane rating, around 1920-1930 but a hundred years later people still get it wrong 😂
I’m glad you mentioned this. Because of what DI does to the combustion chamber, especially jamming rings, it’s important to keep the combustion chamber as clean as possible. The logical choice is a high detergent oil. Maybe you could go over the best choice for a DI engine taking into account oil consumption. Thank you.
If your engine consumes large amounts of oil, ANY brand/type of oil is going to foul the combustion chambers, and if your engine is misfiring, the combustion chambers in question will get dirty. Service your air cleaner regularly and keep your engine in a good state of tune, and it will be a long time before you have to worry about that.
I have used this oil for over 100k miles in both 1.8 TSI and 2.0 TSI DI engines without an issue. The oil tests from Blacksotne labs come back stellar after 10k miles oil changes.
I used it exclusively in the 2001 330i that I took to 245,000 miles (friend's son is still driving it to this day) and never had any engine issues at all. I autocrossed and tracked this car quite a bit as well so it wasn't even babied.
I run this mobil 0w40 on my 1.8 tsi 16 jetta. The car loves it! Amazing on -30°C winter cold starts. I also do about 5 HPDE track days in the summer 👌 car runs flawless and the oil looked clean all race season.
I use this Mob1 on my fiat powered dodge dart. Over 100k no internal wear issues detected. Lots of fast talk using big words like "centistokes" and "labratory"
Also, the 1.8T is not a DI engine either.. the 1.8 is a TSi, port injected, your 2.0 TDi is not a TSI, it's aTDi. That 2.0 TDi has always been DI, and should be common rail. It's too new to be a Pump Duse engine.. but that was also DI.
This is quite interesting. The LT4 in my Camaro requires the 0w40 ESP, rebranded into 0w40 supercar. The 12.9 centistokes is the same between this oil and the Euro version. After 3 track days on this oil, my used oil analysis with 1,323 miles on it showed 11.13 centistokes, which confirms what you're saying about it shearing down to a 30 grade oil. GM recommends 15w50 on the ZLE due to increased lateral grip, stating that it can cause oil cavitation, which I've since switched to. I wonder if recommending the 15w50 is related to them knowing the 0w40 shears down to the 30 grade, and the thinner oil is causing the cavitation.
I wonder how the Penzoil Ultra Platinum 0w40 compares to the Mobile1 Supercar 0w40? Been using Penzoil UP in my other vehicles with much success, but my 24 C8 recommends the Mobile1 Supercar 0w40.
Great video! Seems like a good option for people with older maybe slightly worn engines calling for 30W oils since it's basically a heavy 0W30. It's pretty interesting that this oil has an advertised pour point of -76 degrees F, that's by far the best I have ever seen even significantly beating Redline, Amsoil, etc. What are your thoughts on these new API SN+ and SP oils switching to different additive packages to accommodate DI and turbocharged engines? Aren't the updated oils a downgrade for those of us with older port injected engines? Perhaps explaining why this is or isn't the case would make a great video.
According to the Safety Data Sheet released from Exxon-Mobil released on 6-10-2022, their Mobil 1 0W-40 FS oil has a Pour Point of -40 C (-40 F), so where did you see it advertised at -76 F? By a true comparison, Amsoil 100% Synthetic 0W-40 European Motor Oil has a Pour Point of -51 C (-59.8 F), which is -19.8 F lower than the Mobil 1.
I appreciate your oil analysis and your detailed discussion associated with them. But I think your title for this video is a bit misleading. I have been using Mobil 1 0W40 European Formula in a 1995 BMW M3 for several years and it has performed very well. Only after watching your video did I realize that your recommendation against using this oil is for specific use cases only, such as with Direct Injection engines using 87 Octane fuels. And others are added comments indicating that they have perfectly use cases for this oil, too. And you have confirmed that the oil is suitable for their use cases.
I have a 2013 VW Direct Injection engine with 209,000 current miles that I've owned since new. I've been using M1 0w-40 for nearly the life of the engine. I'm glad to hear it has a good friction modifier package, but laughed (at myself) when this video mentioned it wasn't recommended for DI engines. Early oil changes were done by the dealer per the service package that came with the car. After than time, I began using M1 0w-40. At about 100K miles or so I tested a no-name brand synthetic in a 5w-30 offering for several oil changes and noticed the engine began using a little oil consistently. After confirming this was repetitive, I switched back to the 0w-40 at about 130K miles and found that I could drive 7500-8000 (mostly highway) before I used a quart. I've been using M1 0w-40 oil ever since. At 209k now, the engine burns 1 quart ever 6-7k miles. I usually top it off, drive another 1k or so miles and change the oil using a WIX brand filter. While I don't doubt there's truth to this higher calcium detergent content not being ideal for ID engines and contributing to LSPI, I would think using the correctly rated octane fuel for your engine would have more impact on any type of pre-ignition associated with a DI engine. I learned something new here. Looks like I'll be looking for the ESP version of the M1 0w-40 oil in the future!
@@mikejohnson9118 I've heard turbo diesel guys running the rotella oil, but I've never heard anyone in the VW / GTI community suggest it. Just so we're clear, the TSI 2.0 in the GTI is a gasoline engine, a single turbo of course.
@@Fmandan77 Sorry I thought you meant TDI. Buuuut the Subie bros swear by the Turbo-Diesel based Rotella. I used it in my XTi with no problems and it's readily available.
@@Fmandan77 I use the Amsoil 5W-40 MS oil...with the red label. Car doesn't use oil (other than what the faulty PCV allowed to sweat out). VW Tiguan 2.0T.
VW guy here, all our cars ran rotella t6 5w40.1.8s 2.0ts Audi v6 and Vr6's. All went way over 200k. My previous 06 pass at was over 300k when it was traded in.
been using 0W-40 in all my vehicles since 2006, used to be royal purple and now its mobile one. i live in the northern parts of usa and we get cold winters. i have never had an engine problem with any of my vehicles, or atvs, or riding lawn mower for that matter.
Everyone should be using a 0W-xx oil, everywhere. It is well known that the most wear occurs during a cold startup. A 0W-xx oil will better protect during that cold startup. If you are starting an engine in Phoenix in the summer at 110°F, that oil is too cold to properly lubricate. Most people think the problem with oil is that it gets thin when it gets hot. That is false. The real problem with oil is that it gets thick when cold.
@@e-curb This makes sense to me but I wonder why manufacturers - at least those of the cars I owned - call for 5W-xx oil instead of stating that both 0W-xx or 5W-xx would be OK. I read that 0W is always synthetic while 5W is available in regular oil so going 5W allows some people to save a few dollars... I always use synthetic and both 0W and 5W are the same price so all that matters to me is knowing which one is better.
@@davidg3517 I've never noticed that 0W- oils are always synthetic. Although I did notice in gear oil, a 75W-xx is always synthetic, while ordinary oil is always 80W-xx. Thanks for pointing that out! It could be due to cost like you said. My car is from the early 70s when multi-grades were just getting going. The manufacturer of my car recommended against multi-grades because of that reason. It's an economy car, designed for lower operating costs. For the same reason they recommended against using radial tires! You'll be surprised to learn that the forums for my car are full of people who say you must use straight 30wt oil.
@@robertheinkel6225 Yeah, the Corolla calls for 0W-8 or 0W-16. These are new oils that I had not noticed before. The 0W-8 is not even available yet in stores in my area.
The European OEM's do that, but not the domestic OEM's. GM does not recommend this specific formula for their engines that call for 0W-40. Instead, they call for the ESP version that features a lower calcium content. The saving grace for the European OEM's is that they typically recommend 93 Octane fuel, which helps reduce detonation.
I drive a stock 2021 Tacoma 3.5L V6, and would like to see some comparison tests on engine oils for off road vehicles. I am very intrigued by your channel and just signed on. I am learning a lot, received answers to many questions, but this leads to many more questions! Thank you and appreciate your channel.
The question is; Does the vehicle require the (SN), A3/B4 (229.5), or similar specification? These include high Sulfuric acid, Phosphorus and Sulphur (SAPS) and are (SN) rated. Most also have higher levels of ZDDP, Calcium, etc. They are geared toward the European ACEA standards which include, extended oil drain intervals. They are not always good for some cars, however due to these factors. The issues are potential damage to catalytic converters, and a high potential for Low Speed Pre-ignition (LSPI). But what the gentleman did not expand on, is this mostly affects small displacement engines, such as (4 cylinders) that also use turbo. The problem is that the manufacturers are trying to get too much power and fuel efficiency out of these small engines, and it is too much to ask for! So you have to pretty much sacrifice, extended oil drains to some degree, as they contain less wear additives. I do believe that they are working toward alternative chemistry to replace calcium, such as adding more magnesium instead. This issue usually does not affect more powerful engines, such as (v8 bi-turbos). So the bottom line is to not use (SN) specified oils, which contains high-levels of calcium, etc., in a vehicle that does not require this specification. But for vehicles that do, I would still use them. I would (NEVER) put an SN+ specified oil in my Mercedes v8 Biturbo.
This is good info! I actually just switched to Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 from Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0w-40/5w-40 in my 2.0 TFSI because of cost and availability. Looks like I'm going back. I'd really like to see a comparison between this and other VW 502.00 oils like the Pennzoil and maybe a Liqui Moly product or OE VW oil.
I did the opposite. PPE 0w40 is so much better than m1 0w40. But I may change again to valvoline 5w40 euro and I may even add a few quarts of 20w50 in there.
Can you explain then why GM recommends the Mobil 1 0w-40 “supercar” for the C8 corvette? LT2 engine is DI. If I recall correctly the “supercar” formula used to be what was branded as ESPx3, dexos 2 certified.
Would love to see this for Valvoline’s “MaxLife Plus” vs regular MaxLife. They tout the Moly in the new “Plus” variant, but would love to hear from an expert about ACTUAL differences and their potential impacts!
@@leiflillandt1488 there is more than one type of Ester. The type of Ester used in High Mileage oils is for seal swell, which is different from the type of Ester used in this oil.
If you have a European vehicle with a euro spec motor (regardless of tune for localization, emissions, etc) should use the oil recommended by the engineers that designed it. Mobil 1 is great, amazing oil, but it isn’t a universal application. One of our vehicles is a VW Jetta with an old school 2.0 8 valve motor. 40 year old design. It’s fine with high calcium oil, even though it isn’t recommended by VW it’s fine. The 2008 R32 on the other hand, we stick to Motul or Liquimoly or some German formula the motor was designed around. Same for our SVT Focus. Most people you hear from with issues on Cosworth motors used the wrong oil. Everyone else has 250k+ with no oil consumption or dilution. Additive packages matter. Don’t pretend to be an engineer, follow what the engineers who designed your motor are telling you.
thanks for this... I use 0W40 in my Q50 VQ37VHR, 2015 F150 Coyote and S2000. All benefit from a thicker 30w oil. My UOAs have been nothing but stellar. Can you do a high mileage synthetic oil explanation next?
Great suggestion, I have wondered about high mileage oils too. I have always avoided them since my high mileage engines are in pretty good shape with all reasonably new seals and I don't want to swell already healthy seals since I don't see that doing anything good. A detailed explanation of how exactly high mileage oils affect new and old seals would make a great video though, I always wondered if this was a real concern. For what it's worth, I never saw any engine or oil manufacturers specifically recommend against using high mileage oils in healthy engines.
Hello Lake, Great video, but a couple of things here. My 2017 Passat with 1.8 DI motor requires the 502 spec oil. My point is in the warranty period, even with higher calcium levels (LSPI), that if the motor blows, VW is on the hook. I don't know if the Castrol 0w-40 or Valvoline SynPower 0W-40 have lower levels of calcium, but they are I believe based on Group IV base stocks. My new 2022 Jetta, with 1.5 DI, requires the 508 specification. This specification was invoked around 2019 or 2020, and it's 0w-20 grade (yes, even in the GTI), versus the 5W-40/0W-40 for older spec. I think this specification will supersede/obsolete the 502 specification. The 2nd point is that the VW 508 specification has much lower calcium levels (like half). Here's a VOA from the Bob Is The Oil Guy: bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/mobil-1-esp-x2-0w20-voa.334027/ Once out of warranty, then it's your call, but would recommend HTHS of 3.5, and under 11% NOAK. Final thing: the 502 specification is a long service oil of 10k (look at the TBN #'s). The new VW 508 specification claims 10k, but VW mechanics I've talked to say 5-6k. I concur. Parting shot: although very dubious, maybe Exxon Mobil has something latent in the additive pack that helps mitigate the risk of LSPI, even with the high levels of it. Of note: all GF-6 oils abide by the LSPI calcium level, FWIW. Sorry for the long post, sir.
Those are some great points. Because the LSPI tests were not developed until 2018, all the DI engines prior to that would have the older, higher calcium spec. As you noted, all the new specs are lower calcium, which corresponds to the advent of the ASTM Sequence IX test. While higher ZDDP and higher VI base stocks can help mitigate LSPI, all of the commercial additive packages that pass the ASTM Sequence IX LSPI prevention test are lower calcium (typically with a blend of Magnesium based detergent to bolster the TBN). In regards to TBN, I'll put out another video that specifically addresses the differences between API SN and SP, especially in regards to TBN. Stay tuned!
Subscribed. As a tribologist, what is the mechanism behind 996/997 bore scoring? Why the association with colder climates? Is there a contribution from improper oil grade?
Thanks for subscribing. The answers to those questions are beyond the scope of the comments section. We are doing some videos on this topic later this year with the Porsche Club of America.
Lake, I always find your commentary interesting. Hopefully there will be a PCA Tech Tactics East this year and you will be there! I found your comments about Mobil 1 0w-40 for direct injection engines a little confusing, in light of the fact that this oil is OE for direct injected Porsche engines among others?
Lance, thanks for the comment and the question. I hope we get to have Tech Tactics again as well this year! In regards to your question, this is exactly why I mentioned LSPI in this video. As a Porsche owner and PCA member myself, I wanted to highlight this fact, and it is fact. High calcium oils don’t pass the ASTM Sequence X LSPI test, but this oil is still being recommended by Porsche. How is that possible? The simple answer is fuel. Without getting into all the details of LSPI, the premium, 93 octane that Porsche recommends helps prevent LSPI. The chemistry of the oil is still not ideal for direct injection engines (as noted by the C30 spec using lower calcium in the newer DI engines). Hopefully we have Tech Tactics again and I can do a full presentation on this topic!
Very few European companies have any issues with calcium and LSPI. It is mostly American companies like General Motors and Ford with turbo direct inject engines that have issues with LSPI and want to lower calcium as a band aid fix! Sadly too many "experts" parrot what ever the domestic market says! GM and Lubrizol co-published an SAE White paper on ZDDP poisonings catalytic converts and lead to lower zinc and phosphorus limits in the oil.
Its crazy how much "more tougher" the old engines are..my 90 F150 300-six had the same oil in it for 13 years/40,000 miles...after my Grandfather died they used it on the farm and to the feed store and no one ever changed it until I bought it...great video...
yes, regarding LSPI, this Mobil has a lot of Calcium. HOWEVER, Audi in Massachusetts (and across USA too?) has gone to using 5W40 Mobil in its oil service. They're putting this oil and I haven't heard of Audi 2.0 TFSI having this issue. I'm might just not have enough info, though.
I was at WCX 2019 when the Ford engineer introduced the term LSPI. Nothing ever happens *before* ignition, but he claimed naming rights. An engineer from Aramco verified it's not detonation, it's autoignition. All the energy in the chamber is accounted for by the energy liberated by the fuel mass (up to 70%). LSPI is an issue in downsized *turbo* engines. High pressure and low rpm (more time for things to go sideways).
Thanks for the comment. I've not seen a sample of that oil in some time, but the last time I saw a used oil sample of that product, the wear results looked very good. If my memory serves, it was a higher detergent formula at that time, so it is probably not the best choice for a DI engine. However, they may have updated the formula since then. I'm sure the Amsoil guys could steer you in the right direction if you have a DI engine (I don't think Grand Marquis had a DI engine, so you are probably good).
@@themotoroilgeek thanks for your reply. You are correct with the Grand Marquis not being a di engine. All panther platform vehicles that I'm aware of have had the port injected 4.6L modular V8. I have some sp rated Amsoil 0w30 oil I can send you for voa if you are interested.
The main problem with purchasing engine oil is that oil companies in their oil selectors say their oil is comparable substitute, not the suitable or actual substitute. I have bought oil from major brand companies and only topped up oil by just over a pint, and straight away had timing chain guide noises. Then had a manufacturer service two weeks later and the engine was silent. If they don’t have the identical oil, they shouldn’t try to sell you their products.
GM recommends Mobil 1 5w 30 for the 3,6 performance V6 direct injection and VVT. (2012 Cadillac SRX AWD) It's also recommended for my 99 C5 w/ LS1. I used to be a Valvoline guy (mechanic for 45 years). What sold me on Mobile 1 was I drove my Vette through a big puddle (acally a small lake) that had formed in the middle of the highway during a heavy rainstorm. It hydrolocked and threw #7 rod right through the side of the block. The engine had 145 K on it, I also take it to the track and it also has a 3 core aluminum radiator. I have used M1, changing the oil every 3 to 5k miles. I tore the engine down and couldn't believe how good of a condition he engine was in. Bearings were PRISTINE and you could still see the crosshatch on the cylinder walls. From my experience, using the same oil every oil change is more important than the brand, as far as tier 1 oils are concerned. I have also been living off grid for a while and use generators a lot in the winter, or if I'm welding. Generator engines last more than 2x longer when I use the same brand every change. Engines will usually fail pretty quickly using different brands. All I can figure is that the different additive packages can act against each other? Usually more wear a the rings.
@@claycoates5056 Obviously, in your criticism of another poster, you meant to say - Verbose? Also, describing it as 'Too Verbise' is like saying 'too much excess'.
I have a 2004 1.8T Jetta with 225k miles, in which I religiously used Mobil 1 0w-40 European oil for years. We moved from Washington State to South Dakota 3 years ago, and the engine just seems to make more noise. After watching a bunch of #FordBossMe videos, I decided to switch to either Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 or Valvoline Advanced High-Mileage Extended Protection 5w-30, but I couldn't find either right for the oil change right before a road trip. The best I could find was Pennzoil (non-ultra) Platinum 5w-30. We just got back from the trip, and the oil now has about 1500 miles on it. I am impressed. The engine is much quieter and feels much smoother.
Would love to see a comparison of the additive packages used in Ford's 5w50, Castrol Edge SP and Amsoil 5W50 synthetic. Ford's 5w50 is the recommended oil for the 2.3L turbo engine in the Ford Focus RS. Members of the forum are starting to see catastrophic engine failures during low RPM conditions. Lot's of theories. Lot's of engines with tunes possibly leaning A/F mixture at low RPM increasing the possibility of LSPI. Slacker - just happened to me! 2018 @ 42k and @ 5k rpm. No hard acceleration, no ligging, no low rpm event, with 1000mi on new Castrol Edge SP rated. Will elaborate with full info when this nightmare is over. Mild tune from Randy, aka Former Mountune Guy. Been running it for 3 years now with no problems, including about a half dozen track days. Always used Amsoil 5w-50 synthetic, and just changed it 2k miles ago. I was running about 30-40mph (probably 3rd gear but not sure) when I went full throttle. That's when it went boom.
You probably had bent rods. Tuners on the 2.3 platform has NOTORIOUS issues managing boost and boost spike can produce in excess of 650Nm which bends the rods. The engine still runs remarkably well, maybe with a little extra tic-tic as the piston skirts are usually at the bottom of the oil sump so you get a bit of piston rocking/slap noise. After that, anything can happen. More often than not a rod exits the block sideways and the same tuners attribute this to an “LSPI event” which is a silly excuse for their lack of skills. Mountune USA stopped tuning the 2.3 EB for a reason. They will happily send you to X or Y but they don’t assume responsibility for the tuning as a company. If your oil meets the required Ford WSS spec LSPI is never a problem. Additionally the PCM actively monitors and detects LSPI and has mitigations in place. And yes I’m not talking about knock. LSPI.
Very informative video. Before watching this video, I was considering this oil for my late model Chevy Silverado 3500HD with the L8T gasoline engine. The truck will be used for heavy hauling; so, I thought this oil would be a good choice since the viscosity at 100 degrees C is 12.9 which is just about a 30 wt oil threshold. The L8T is a direct injected engine and GM calls for a 5W30. However, the high level of calcium used in the detergent package of Mobil 1 0W40 oil makes it a poor choice for my application. Thanks much for information on this oil.
We have seen that change only in the last weeks (looking at customer used oil samples). We are going to analyze a fresh sample of the API SP version soon.
Your channel has led me down the engine oil rabbit hole and I’m loving the complexity of the subject and teasing out objective findings based on my own UOA experiences and product data sheets vs marketing. I enjoy diving into the technical details, research papers, white papers etc. Do you have a few references to high-level technical resources for people like me?
I’m glad you are enjoying the journey! I’d recommend going to the STLE website (STLE.org). They have some good resources and an excellent list of books (body of knowledge for certification exams).
I've been using this oil in my NA Miata with great results. Great when you want a slightly heavier 30W grade oil but not quite a full step to a "true" 40W.
Your thoughts Redline non-SP rated oils for direct injected non turbo engines? Ok to use their 5w40 for instance? Application would be a late model Chevy LT1. They call for Dexos 2 oils.
Would you be interested in doing a series on the most hotly discussed enthusiast oils? E.g. AMSOIL 75W-90 vs. Shockproof for differentials, special MTL + ATF mixtures for T-56 and TR-6060 transmissions, and various options for engines (e.g. AMSOIL Signature vs. Dominator vs. Redline vs. diesel oil from both companies for DI and port injected cars).
I use this mobil 1 0W-40 in my Mercedes twin turbo 5.5 L M157 Engine with 50k miles. i change every 4k miles and have not had any issues. My engine uses direct injection. If not this oil what do you recommend for my application? Thanks
Here is what Blackstone had to say regarding my 0W40 viscosity reference range question: “From our end, the viscosity range is fairly typical for a 0W/40 (not straight 40W) and lines up with what Mobil 1 has on their website for this oil, so we think they're a good point of comparison for this oil type. Also, oil doesn't shear linearly, so there's no reason to think that the oil would be below grade just based on time between oil changes.”
@@themotoroilgeek I’ve contacted Mobil 1 regarding this and my questions have gone several times up the ranks and are now at the lubrication engineer level in both the US and European tech desks. Let’s see what they have to say!
@@shahrukhbakar3248 Did you ever hear back from Mobil? I'd also be interested in their response. Their customer service has been very good from my experience, I'm impressed that they elevated your question to the engineering level.
I just found your videos today and I'm really enjoying all the new found knowledge you offer. I learned that the stated 10-30w has nothing to do with viscosity because of a bit of research I did for motorcycle fork oil. So, my question is how do I see or find the information (chemical make-up and actual viscosity) for oils I'm consider for my cars?
I have been buying the 12 quart box until just recently when Walmart dropped the price on the 5 quart jug and now the jug is a little cheaper per quart.
@@themotoroilgeek They say the natural gas Pennzoil has a better additive package than Mobil1. Id like to see the proof of this. Thanks for the reply. Look forward to seeing it down the pipe. New sub. Good info here.
What oil are you running in your 986 Boxster now? I have a 2003 986 Boxster S that I have only used Mobil 1 0W-40 in it. It has almost 140k miles on it now, still has it's original IMSB. I did try a 5W-30 in it one time and at start up the engine rattle a lot. So much that I changed the oil back to the Mobil 1 0W-40 by the end of the week, it was that bad. I don't see a reason to change from the Mobil 1 0W-40.
As of today, it has Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in it. I'm testing that in comparison to a few other oils. I'll do a video on the results once I have them all in.
That one makes me scratch my head, but I believe those engines are less susceptible to LSPI because they require premium fuel and are naturally aspirated. If this engine was turbocharged and revved to 6,000, they would not recommend this oil.
Fantastic video! Does your recommendation against using this for DI engines still hold now that this oil is API SP certified, or do you still recommend the ESP X3 variant because of low SAPS?
@@themotoroilgeek I'd be curious to see how the wear protection and cleanliness of the ESP version compares to this FS version. I've always assumed that the performance of the low and mid SAPS oils isn't as good as these full SAPS oils, but I have never seen it tested.
I use it in this engine in my pic here. CHevy small block. ITs a roller cam motor so no need to worry about lifter riding on cam issues. Love that its a 40 weight.
Been using Mobil 1 syn 5w-30 extended, change every 7k miles, Volvo 5 cylinder turbo starting at 82k miles, now 246k miles, will continue. Also use it in my lawn motor...
Mobil 1 updated this oil. It now has kinematic viscosity @ 100 C of 13.8 and the SN Plus certification, which makes it approved for direct injection protection against low-speed pre ignition. I can't find my data sheet, but I think the calcium level came down quite a bit on this reformulation. From the 3,000 ppm range to 1,200 ppm.
On the product page for 0W-40 FS, Mobil 1 makes a stronger statement about cleaning than it does about it's other oils: "Provides exceptional cleaning power for your engine". On their other products they make a weaker statement like "...keeping your engine clean"! Which seems to back up many of the reports from folks that it helps "clean" better than other oils. What are your thoughts on that?
Hi! Great video, I have a Golf GTE with a 1.4l direct injection tsi engine, I was thinking to put Mobil1 0-40w, but with your explanation about detergents it is not recommend, so how about shell helix ultra 5w30, I live in spain with high temperature weather but in winter it gets cold, and I go to the mountains to ski a lot. Also to mention that the car is hybrid so many times the engine runs with cold oil, but also plenty of time I push the car a lot doing some nice canyon runs with friends. So very difficult choice for viscosity.
Thanks for the comment and question. I’d recommend using a 5W-30 that is GM Dexos 1 approved. I know that sounds weird, but the Dexos oils are tested to prevent LSPI.
@@themotoroilgeek calcium around 3000, the TBN after 8000km(5000miles) is down to its feet, very difficult to find an oil for my car, being hybrid and running cold oil constantly and then in the weekend completely destroying the redline. The car comes OEM with Castrol Edge Titanium 5w40. I’m continuing searching
I was using that European formula Mobil1 0w40 on my Jdm STi and wrx engines with good results. I changed to high mile Mobil1 5w30 about a year ago, can you please do a similar technical analysis of the high mile 5w30 ? Thank you sir.
Subscribed. This is the deeper technical detail research I've been looking for. I use Mobil1 0W40 in my older BMW E46 and Porsche 996 911. Much mystery surrounded this oil on the forums when it went "FS" formulation change a few years ago and dropped it's BMW LL-01 certification yet it retained MB 229.3, 229.5 as well as Porsche's A40. I am a big fan of Jake Raby who is a Porsche engine specialist and has earned notoriety on 996 failures and he has nearly lambasted this Porsche approved Mobil1 0W40 oil as one of the contributers for the 996 engine issues and heavily promotes the more expensive "Driven" line of oils however just about anyone with an automotive engineering background can look at the 996 engine line and identify oil had very little to do with it.
Any change of doing lquimoly tests for 5w40. Porsche cayenne suffers from bore score on the earlier models and wonder if the recommended mobil1 could have had anything to do with it. I think we all know oil companies pay car mnf to use their brands , don’t they? You mention it’s no great to use in direct injection cars🤷♂️
I know u r a busy guy. But if u ever want to do a wear/lubricity test on that mobil1 5w50....that would b great. Just to see how robust that group 4 and 5 is compared to another. Maybe even compared to the 15w50 group 3. I use those oils and it would b cool to see real-life results. Just an idea if u r ever itching to test an oil in that way. Thanks again for all that u do.
Hi SPEEDiagnostix, hope you are doing well. Rather strange question, but this oil has been recommended via forums for the Volvo SI6 3.2 B6324S engine, as it is closer to a 30, rather than a true 40, after a bit of use, like you mentioned. However you noted that due to the higher calcium/detergent levels it is not ideal for DI engines, which the B6324S is not, but I do have an LPG system on my car, so I was wondering if that would necessitate another oil that would be better suited for the engine? Generally I am looking into understanding if there should be anything else I should look for in oil, to keep the engine working smoothly for as long as possible. I know that the LPG systems are not common in the USA, but your expertise would be greatly appreciated!
What does that excess calcium do to the oxygen sensors and catalytic converters in port injected engines? (I'm mostly concerned about older engines, that consume a little more oil, than when new)
One of the questions on the exam to become a certified lubrication specialist is "when is it appropriate to use an aftermarket additive in a motor oil?" The answer is never. I have nothing against PROLONG or any other brand of additive, but using an additive in a motor oil is playing chemical Russian Roulette with your engine. I'll do another video explaining all the details as to why.
@@themotoroilgeek I am not an engineer or chemist or mechanic I am a retired heavy class 8 semi truck driver I used prolong engine treatment in two of my personal vehicles and had no issues it reduced the engine revolutions by 100 RPMs you need a vehicle with a Tachometer to see the results the company truck at work was a newer 2001 FLD 120 day cab with a fuller 9 spd and Cat C-12 it also was reduced by 100 RPMs it required 2 quarts of the Prolong purchased at the truck stop never no problems that tractor is still in their fleet today and has over one million miles with no tear down since I no longer drive for them I told the shop foremen about it over coffee he laughed I said yeah I had the nerve years ago to take liberties with company equipment he said they talk about me & that tractor all the time when I drove it never any thing loose or broke always super lean in & out they never had to adjust my brakes or clutch never had to top off my fluids between changes my injectors were always clean my lights always functioned properly my fifth wheel always properly greased but never over the sides yeah I am bragging always respected the equipment & enjoyed it Yes I took liberties with it
@@georgewilson1184 I hear ya. That's what I meant by Russian Roulette - some additives work great for some people, but fail miserably for others. The variables are the oil the additive is added to and the operating conditions of the engine. Not everything works together all the time, so that's why I don't ever recommend using any additives.
I shared this video on a Porsche FB group and mofos are losing their minds. I dont think any of them even watched the video. Just read the title and out came the knives and daggers. 😂
Never have I been so engrossed in something I can barely understand. Kudos to Lake for being so engaging in his presentation.
Been using Mobile 1 Ero 0W40 since my 2007 VW GTI was new. Never had any issues. Still runs strong.
Low speed Pre-ignition isn't really going to harm the engine much given the anti-knock in modern cars, but will reduce power because of it.
@@winebartender6653 depends on the cause of the preignition. if the a/f is auto igniting, then retarding engine spark may not do anything. Also if it is spark related, generally you can only retard so far before the engine is not able to retard anymore, and there is also a possibility that the pressure spike is fast can still cause damage if it creates enough pressure.
not saying that this will happen, but it's a possibility compared to a blanket state of it isn't really going to harm the engine.
VW doesn't have problems with LSPI, only the newcommers to DI turbo engines, like american and japs
What motor is in your GTI?
Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 has recently been reformulated and is now API SP rated.
Would this mean it has the lower calcium content? I'm looking to run this oil in some truck Ecoboost engines.
Yes, I can confirm it is now SP rated and I just put it in a 991.2 C4S. SP rated means it must have passed the LSPI test, right?
Ah. So weak, low SAPS with ZDDP a distant memory?
Thanks, but no thanks. I'll keep putting Diesel oil in my flat-tappet gasser; specifically oil that meets Ford's more stringent cam wear rules.
Everybody scared about the cat...don't let the oil into the combustion chamber; it cannot get to the cat to poison it!
Did they change the 5W-40 also?
@@bcubed72 No, it has the same SAPS level. API SP has no phosphorus limits for >= SAE 40 grades.
Neen using mobil 0w-40 in my bmw 325i for going on 10 years. Over 200k now, changed sparkplugs for the second time now, no oil burn on any of the cylinders. I love it.
Just leaking oil like a clunker
this is a Fiction rings are too fat one or you are Burning oil
I refuse to believe you got over 200k miles on a BMW..
hahaha
BMW 325 no oil burn :D
Great joke
@@Heywoodthepeckerwood , I got 150,000 miles and running strong with my 2013 BMW 328 turbo !
I used this exact oil in my 2003 MB C240 for 230k miles without any issues at all. The guy I sold it to is still driving it today.
U had a direct injection car in 2003???
My 240 was 280k before I gave it away. Dual plugs...no DI. I currently have 2 E63S and a GLS580...LiquidMoly for me, thanks
No but Mercedes had a direct injected gasoline car in 1955
I use Toyota's 5W-30 every 5K miles or 6 mos. in my wife's 2002 Highlander with 284K miles (we bought it new). Still see nice crosshatching on the cylinders, valve train is immaculate and car runs like a clock.
@@konic40 how new do you think direct injection is?
Been driving a 99 MB E320 for 16yrs and it now has 160k miles. Used only M1 0W40 per spec sheet but didn't know about this interesting new information. I put about 6k miles/yr on it so only change oil once a year. Pulled the valve covers last year for gasket replacement and lifters etc. looked almost new. Had a very slight tinge that I attribute to the original owner using Castrol for a couple of years. I'll definitely research this more as I have a 12qt box in the garage now.
Believe 99 MB E320 is port injected, not DI?
Was searching for this video to share with my wife's service technician, that repairs her gdi turbo vehicle, the oil has worked well over the past 5 years and the engine is cleaner than others that have been using the Hyundai oil, but will look into the research.
My 04 Duramax has been using this oil since 06, and running strong, year round in Canuck Rockies. So far so good, for me and my buds.
Same here Bill. I started using this oil when I was working in Northern Alberta in the winter of 2008 and had trouble cold starting with 15W-40 at -50 C. (even with the block heater plugged in). After switching over to 0W-40 Synthetic my Dirtymax started much easier. Sometimes I mix a 5 litre jug of Motomaster OE Plus 0W-40 (Shell) with Mobile 1 - 0W-40 (4.73 litres) because between the 2, I get exactly the 9.73 litres I need when using a Castrol 9100 Premium Oil Filter. And of course I always buy my oil on sale.
@@somerled3787 Good stuff somerled! It's all about lubrication. Give your engine lubrication, always, and keep it clean :-). Cheers my fellow Max owner
Water pumps are fun on those and injectors book out at 14 hrs. Everything has to come out.
Great to discover Lake's own channel! He's always informative and breaks things down for lay people. Thanks Lake! Keep the videos coming.
Thanks!
@@themotoroilgeek 2020 Toyota Rav4 2.0 (2wd)
0w40 can you pour oil?
I use this 0w40 mobil one in a 2007 tundra v8 5.7 with 360k miles and the engine sounds better and v8 supercharged do not use the 0w20 in my experience i like more the 0w40.
I've been using this oil in my 2001 VW TDi diesel for the 20 years I've owned it. I thought it had the specs called for this engine. Car still runs fine and used about
It is an A3/B3 oil, so it is fine for use in a diesel engine. LSBI only happens in gasoline direct injection and not in Diesels.
@@themotoroilgeek Thank You for your kind and helpful reply!
The oil I like is Penzzoil. I have a 2017 Chevrolet Colorado 2.8 duramax and I run Penzoil 5w30. Got 186000 miles and it's still going great.
The Mobil 1 euro blend fs oils are awesome. I use 5w50 in the m57 diesel BMW engines fully modified
that's a lot. my car doesn't use any.
Hi Lake. Thank u for what u do. I've seen ftir from other places and the nice thing about the "fs" is they also confirmed Ester, pao, and gtl base. Which on my opinion, for the $... It is a really good base oil (not talking about the calcium and lspi issue). But the new "sp" rated seems like it would b a really high quality oil. But I found that they have changed their new formula to group 3 according to the ftir tests. Also the 5w50 fsx2 was the same way. That's unfortunate because the 5w50 fs is what I was using just for the reason of the strong base-oil formulation. The "fs" oils seemed to b the exception of other Mobil 1's which weren't that great. The "fs" seemed to b a step above w the pao, Ester and gtl. I was very impressed. And the 5/50 was my favorite. I honestly thought the "fs" stood for full-synthetic and was a European designation demand to determine true group 4 and 5? But now it appears the "fs" is just group 3 like the rest of their oil. I know group 3 doesn't mean it's no good... I understand that. But the gtl, pao, and Ester is kinda a notch above for base oil. What r your thoughts on all this? Can u confirm or deny the formula change. And is it just the 5w50 fs that was changed or all the "fs"? Thanks so much!
When i first bought my Cayman i was using the Mobile 0w-40 oil but the engine was a bit clackity, and then i switched to Liquimoly, ive been using the Molygen 5w-40 for the past year and my the car runs alot quieter and my oil analysis results actually improved.
I like that it's high detergents and has just a great Additive package.
3200ppm calcium is up there the highest ive ever seen was around 3600ppm would be nice to have more magnesium in there aswell though especially because magnesium is a better detergent for diesels.
Id run this oil in any port injected gasoline engine that isnt affected by LSPI and that does not burn oil and/or has a particulate filter.
For oil burners and really modern engines with advanced emissions control this oil isn't ideal too much calcium and ZDDP. It will foul CATs and plug particulate filters.
A low ash oil with a lighter additive package is needed here.
Seems like a great replacement for 5w30 grade oil.
LSPM and residue buildup due to the way this oil is formulated is 100% an issue with affected engines so I would be careful there.
What oil would you recommend for oil burning 2007 camry 2az fe 4cyl motor?
Thanks
This looks great for my 6.2 liter ford engine especially like the slightly thicker than 5w30 rating. It's amazing how the 6.2 went from 5w20 recommendation to 5w30 recommendation the year it was dropped from the F-150
Pre-ignition isn't detonation. Detonation occurs after the spark event and pre-ignition occurs when the air/fuel charge is ignited prior to the spark event.
Additionally, detonation occurs when the air/fuel charge stops burning prematurely. Peak cylinder pressure should occur at 14 degrees ATDC. If peak cylinder pressure occurs too early in the compression stroke following the spark event, this suggests detonation is occuring. If air/fuel charge ignition occurs prior to the spark event, you can anticipate immediate engine damage.
Very good writeup. Most people confuse preignition and detonation although it’s been described in glory details by Harry Ricardo, who invented the octane rating, around 1920-1930 but a hundred years later people still get it wrong 😂
Exactly this nerd doesn’t know anything. Can’t even change a tire 🛞!
Boom 💥
Thanks for doing a great job of telling us about oil
Thanks!
Thanks for the informative videos Lake Speed Jr. Good luck with building your brand.
Thank you!
Genuinely interesting and "stretching" content. Great to be treated like an educated person, and not patronised. Thankyou.
Great video. Staying on the Mobil 1 train, a comparison to this with the Mobil 1 0W40 ESP (Dexos 2) would be awesome.
That is in the works!
Yep, based on what I've seen on the BITOG forums, ESP is fantastic oil! I run their 0W-30 in my '22 Subaru Crosstrek with outstanding UOA results.🤙
@@HoldenMcRotchNow in stock at Walmart for $27!
I’m glad you mentioned this. Because of what DI does to the combustion chamber, especially jamming rings, it’s important to keep the combustion chamber as clean as possible. The logical choice is a high detergent oil. Maybe you could go over the best choice for a DI engine taking into account oil consumption. Thank you.
The new API SP oils will do the job.
Using high quality fuel.
If your engine consumes large amounts of oil, ANY brand/type of oil is going to foul the combustion chambers, and if your engine is misfiring, the combustion chambers in question will get dirty. Service your air cleaner regularly and keep your engine in a good state of tune, and it will be a long time before you have to worry about that.
I have used this oil for over 100k miles in both 1.8 TSI and 2.0 TSI DI engines without an issue. The oil tests from Blacksotne labs come back stellar after 10k miles oil changes.
I used it exclusively in the 2001 330i that I took to 245,000 miles (friend's son is still driving it to this day) and never had any engine issues at all. I autocrossed and tracked this car quite a bit as well so it wasn't even babied.
I run this mobil 0w40 on my 1.8 tsi 16 jetta. The car loves it! Amazing on -30°C winter cold starts. I also do about 5 HPDE track days in the summer 👌 car runs flawless and the oil looked clean all race season.
I use this Mob1 on my fiat powered dodge dart. Over 100k no internal wear issues detected. Lots of fast talk using big words like "centistokes" and "labratory"
@@Tangent360 yours isn't Direct Injection, it's port.
Also, the 1.8T is not a DI engine either.. the 1.8 is a TSi, port injected, your 2.0 TDi is not a TSI, it's aTDi. That 2.0 TDi has always been DI, and should be common rail. It's too new to be a Pump Duse engine.. but that was also DI.
This is quite interesting. The LT4 in my Camaro requires the 0w40 ESP, rebranded into 0w40 supercar. The 12.9 centistokes is the same between this oil and the Euro version. After 3 track days on this oil, my used oil analysis with 1,323 miles on it showed 11.13 centistokes, which confirms what you're saying about it shearing down to a 30 grade oil. GM recommends 15w50 on the ZLE due to increased lateral grip, stating that it can cause oil cavitation, which I've since switched to. I wonder if recommending the 15w50 is related to them knowing the 0w40 shears down to the 30 grade, and the thinner oil is causing the cavitation.
Thanks for sharing! The ESP is a different formula than the Euro version - Less calcium.
I wonder how the Penzoil Ultra Platinum 0w40 compares to the Mobile1 Supercar 0w40? Been using Penzoil UP in my other vehicles with much success, but my 24 C8 recommends the Mobile1 Supercar 0w40.
Great video! Seems like a good option for people with older maybe slightly worn engines calling for 30W oils since it's basically a heavy 0W30. It's pretty interesting that this oil has an advertised pour point of -76 degrees F, that's by far the best I have ever seen even significantly beating Redline, Amsoil, etc. What are your thoughts on these new API SN+ and SP oils switching to different additive packages to accommodate DI and turbocharged engines? Aren't the updated oils a downgrade for those of us with older port injected engines? Perhaps explaining why this is or isn't the case would make a great video.
Thanks! That is a common question, so I’ll make a video about the SN+ and SP oil specs.
@@themotoroilgeek Sweet, thanks for taking the time to make this quality content! Looking forward to that video👍
@@averyalexander2303 Thanks!
According to the Safety Data Sheet released from Exxon-Mobil released on 6-10-2022, their Mobil 1 0W-40 FS oil has a Pour Point of -40 C (-40 F), so where did you see it advertised at -76 F? By a true comparison, Amsoil 100% Synthetic 0W-40 European Motor Oil has a Pour Point of -51 C (-59.8 F), which is -19.8 F lower than the Mobil 1.
Exactly what I was thinking, even if the viscosity was to drift higher towards 40 in the case of a worn engine as you described.
Misleading title should be changed to (Why You Should Not Use MOBIL1 0W-40 in a Direct Injection Engine)
Direct injection GASOLINE engine. No worries on a diesel engine.
Thanks for the advice
Click bait 😢 what percent of cars are only direct injection? Probly not that much
Oistien....never use 0/40 in a diesel.
@@johnarnold893Nonsense. That's a perfect oil for diesel engines given it's oem oil spec sheet support it.
I appreciate your oil analysis and your detailed discussion associated with them. But I think your title for this video is a bit misleading. I have been using Mobil 1 0W40 European Formula in a 1995 BMW M3 for several years and it has performed very well. Only after watching your video did I realize that your recommendation against using this oil is for specific use cases only, such as with Direct Injection engines using 87 Octane fuels.
And others are added comments indicating that they have perfectly use cases for this oil, too. And you have confirmed that the oil is suitable for their use cases.
Could you do this for all the big box store brands and tell normal people how they choose the right oil?
That's on the to do list!
Would also like to see the new oil analysis for the other brands.
Normal, what are you insinuating?
Thanks Lake, I have a 2006 DI 2.4L MS6, so i will avoid this 0-40. Much appreciated.
I have a 2013 VW Direct Injection engine with 209,000 current miles that I've owned since new. I've been using M1 0w-40 for nearly the life of the engine. I'm glad to hear it has a good friction modifier package, but laughed (at myself) when this video mentioned it wasn't recommended for DI engines. Early oil changes were done by the dealer per the service package that came with the car. After than time, I began using M1 0w-40. At about 100K miles or so I tested a no-name brand synthetic in a 5w-30 offering for several oil changes and noticed the engine began using a little oil consistently. After confirming this was repetitive, I switched back to the 0w-40 at about 130K miles and found that I could drive 7500-8000 (mostly highway) before I used a quart. I've been using M1 0w-40 oil ever since. At 209k now, the engine burns 1 quart ever 6-7k miles. I usually top it off, drive another 1k or so miles and change the oil using a WIX brand filter.
While I don't doubt there's truth to this higher calcium detergent content not being ideal for ID engines and contributing to LSPI, I would think using the correctly rated octane fuel for your engine would have more impact on any type of pre-ignition associated with a DI engine. I learned something new here. Looks like I'll be looking for the ESP version of the M1 0w-40 oil in the future!
How come you don't use a Delvac or Rotella oil. I thought those were specific for diesels? The Rotellas are highly rated. Especially in turbo engines.
@@mikejohnson9118 I've heard turbo diesel guys running the rotella oil, but I've never heard anyone in the VW / GTI community suggest it. Just so we're clear, the TSI 2.0 in the GTI is a gasoline engine, a single turbo of course.
@@Fmandan77 Sorry I thought you meant TDI. Buuuut the Subie bros swear by the Turbo-Diesel based Rotella. I used it in my XTi with no problems and it's readily available.
@@Fmandan77 I use the Amsoil 5W-40 MS oil...with the red label. Car doesn't use oil (other than what the faulty PCV allowed to sweat out). VW Tiguan 2.0T.
VW guy here, all our cars ran rotella t6 5w40.1.8s 2.0ts Audi v6 and Vr6's. All went way over 200k. My previous 06 pass at was over 300k when it was traded in.
been using 0W-40 in all my vehicles since 2006, used to be royal purple and now its mobile one. i live in the northern parts of usa and we get cold winters. i have never had an engine problem with any of my vehicles, or atvs, or riding lawn mower for that matter.
Thank you, I will use this. Mercedes recommends this.
Oils that have 0w at the beginning were mainly designed for extreme cold starting , it allows oil to start flowing sooner like -40 and colder .
Everyone should be using a 0W-xx oil, everywhere. It is well known that the most wear occurs during a cold startup. A 0W-xx oil will better protect during that cold startup. If you are starting an engine in Phoenix in the summer at 110°F, that oil is too cold to properly lubricate.
Most people think the problem with oil is that it gets thin when it gets hot. That is false. The real problem with oil is that it gets thick when cold.
@@e-curb This makes sense to me but I wonder why manufacturers - at least those of the cars I owned - call for 5W-xx oil instead of stating that both 0W-xx or 5W-xx would be OK. I read that 0W is always synthetic while 5W is available in regular oil so going 5W allows some people to save a few dollars... I always use synthetic and both 0W and 5W are the same price so all that matters to me is knowing which one is better.
@@davidg3517 I've never noticed that 0W- oils are always synthetic. Although I did notice in gear oil, a 75W-xx is always synthetic, while ordinary oil is always 80W-xx. Thanks for pointing that out!
It could be due to cost like you said. My car is from the early 70s when multi-grades were just getting going. The manufacturer of my car recommended against multi-grades because of that reason. It's an economy car, designed for lower operating costs. For the same reason they recommended against using radial tires! You'll be surprised to learn that the forums for my car are full of people who say you must use straight 30wt oil.
My Toyota Sienna calls for 0w-16. I have never heard of 16 weight oil.
@@robertheinkel6225 Yeah, the Corolla calls for 0W-8 or 0W-16. These are new oils that I had not noticed before. The 0W-8 is not even available yet in stores in my area.
interesting that this oil comes recommended by the manufacturer for many DI engines. It's relatively inexpensive and easy to find everywhere.
The European OEM's do that, but not the domestic OEM's. GM does not recommend this specific formula for their engines that call for 0W-40. Instead, they call for the ESP version that features a lower calcium content. The saving grace for the European OEM's is that they typically recommend 93 Octane fuel, which helps reduce detonation.
@@themotoroilgeek thank you for sharing your knowledge
@@themotoroilgeekGM just wants you to use trash oil or pay for the dexos label, b/c they make money from it
Would be awesome to see schaeffer oil or redline product tested or reviewed… great content keep it coming
We will get to many other oils. So many ideas, so little time.
I drive a stock 2021 Tacoma 3.5L V6, and would like to see some comparison tests on engine oils for off road vehicles. I am very intrigued by your channel and just signed on. I am learning a lot, received answers to many questions, but this leads to many more questions! Thank you and appreciate your channel.
Thank you for this info. I have been using this in my 5.3 GM engine that requires 5W-30.
But why?
The question is; Does the vehicle require the (SN), A3/B4 (229.5), or similar specification? These include high Sulfuric acid, Phosphorus and Sulphur (SAPS) and are (SN) rated. Most also have higher levels of ZDDP, Calcium, etc. They are geared toward the European ACEA standards which include, extended oil drain intervals. They are not always good for some cars, however due to these factors. The issues are potential damage to catalytic converters, and a high potential for Low Speed Pre-ignition (LSPI). But what the gentleman did not expand on, is this mostly affects small displacement engines, such as (4 cylinders) that also use turbo. The problem is that the manufacturers are trying to get too much power and fuel efficiency out of these small engines, and it is too much to ask for! So you have to pretty much sacrifice, extended oil drains to some degree, as they contain less wear additives. I do believe that they are working toward alternative chemistry to replace calcium, such as adding more magnesium instead. This issue usually does not affect more powerful engines, such as (v8 bi-turbos). So the bottom line is to not use (SN) specified oils, which contains high-levels of calcium, etc., in a vehicle that does not require this specification. But for vehicles that do, I would still use them. I would (NEVER) put an SN+ specified oil in my Mercedes v8 Biturbo.
I'd love to see you analysis Quaker State Euro 5w40. Thanks for the reviews.
We will add that to our long and growing list of video requests!
Are you a chemical engineer or did you attend a one day course to get your certification?
I'm an oil formulator with over 20 years of experience. Check the description for all the details.
This is good info! I actually just switched to Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 from Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0w-40/5w-40 in my 2.0 TFSI because of cost and availability. Looks like I'm going back. I'd really like to see a comparison between this and other VW 502.00 oils like the Pennzoil and maybe a Liqui Moly product or OE VW oil.
I did the opposite. PPE 0w40 is so much better than m1 0w40. But I may change again to valvoline 5w40 euro and I may even add a few quarts of 20w50 in there.
New mobile 1 euro is SP..lower calcium so this video is old news
Can you explain then why GM recommends the Mobil 1 0w-40 “supercar” for the C8 corvette? LT2 engine is DI. If I recall correctly the “supercar” formula used to be what was branded as ESPx3, dexos 2 certified.
Great question! The ESP/Supercar formula is different than the European formula. The Calcium level is much lower (below 1,500 ppm)
Would love to see this for Valvoline’s “MaxLife Plus” vs regular MaxLife. They tout the Moly in the new “Plus” variant, but would love to hear from an expert about ACTUAL differences and their potential impacts!
I’ll look into that.
@@themotoroilgeekDidn't you say recently (?) that the ester additive makes an oil a long life one? (As the most important additive!?)
@@leiflillandt1488 there is more than one type of Ester. The type of Ester used in High Mileage oils is for seal swell, which is different from the type of Ester used in this oil.
If you have a European vehicle with a euro spec motor (regardless of tune for localization, emissions, etc) should use the oil recommended by the engineers that designed it. Mobil 1 is great, amazing oil, but it isn’t a universal application. One of our vehicles is a VW Jetta with an old school 2.0 8 valve motor. 40 year old design. It’s fine with high calcium oil, even though it isn’t recommended by VW it’s fine. The 2008 R32 on the other hand, we stick to Motul or Liquimoly or some German formula the motor was designed around. Same for our SVT Focus. Most people you hear from with issues on Cosworth motors used the wrong oil. Everyone else has 250k+ with no oil consumption or dilution. Additive packages matter. Don’t pretend to be an engineer, follow what the engineers who designed your motor are telling you.
thanks for this... I use 0W40 in my Q50 VQ37VHR, 2015 F150 Coyote and S2000. All benefit from a thicker 30w oil. My UOAs have been nothing but stellar. Can you do a high mileage synthetic oil explanation next?
That's a great suggestion. I'll add it to the list of video ideas. It won't be the next video, but we will get to it eventually.
Great suggestion, I have wondered about high mileage oils too. I have always avoided them since my high mileage engines are in pretty good shape with all reasonably new seals and I don't want to swell already healthy seals since I don't see that doing anything good. A detailed explanation of how exactly high mileage oils affect new and old seals would make a great video though, I always wondered if this was a real concern. For what it's worth, I never saw any engine or oil manufacturers specifically recommend against using high mileage oils in healthy engines.
@@averyalexander2303 thanks for the suggestion about the video on high mileage oils. I’ll add that to our list.
what you u use in a '02 chevy 8.1 gasser.. 4x4...
@@kevinedwards7206use any high mileage 5W30 ... pick your flavor (brand) and sleep tight..
Hello Lake, Great video, but a couple of things here. My 2017 Passat with 1.8 DI motor requires the 502 spec oil. My point is in the warranty period, even with higher calcium levels (LSPI), that if the motor blows, VW is on the hook. I don't know if the Castrol 0w-40 or Valvoline SynPower 0W-40 have lower levels of calcium, but they are I believe based on Group IV base stocks. My new 2022 Jetta, with 1.5 DI, requires the 508 specification. This specification was invoked around 2019 or 2020, and it's 0w-20 grade (yes, even in the GTI), versus the 5W-40/0W-40 for older spec. I think this specification will supersede/obsolete the 502 specification. The 2nd point is that the VW 508 specification has much lower calcium levels (like half). Here's a VOA from the Bob Is The Oil Guy: bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/mobil-1-esp-x2-0w20-voa.334027/ Once out of warranty, then it's your call, but would recommend HTHS of 3.5, and under 11% NOAK. Final thing: the 502 specification is a long service oil of 10k (look at the TBN #'s). The new VW 508 specification claims 10k, but VW mechanics I've talked to say 5-6k. I concur. Parting shot: although very dubious, maybe Exxon Mobil has something latent in the additive pack that helps mitigate the risk of LSPI, even with the high levels of it. Of note: all GF-6 oils abide by the LSPI calcium level, FWIW. Sorry for the long post, sir.
Those are some great points. Because the LSPI tests were not developed until 2018, all the DI engines prior to that would have the older, higher calcium spec. As you noted, all the new specs are lower calcium, which corresponds to the advent of the ASTM Sequence IX test. While higher ZDDP and higher VI base stocks can help mitigate LSPI, all of the commercial additive packages that pass the ASTM Sequence IX LSPI prevention test are lower calcium (typically with a blend of Magnesium based detergent to bolster the TBN).
In regards to TBN, I'll put out another video that specifically addresses the differences between API SN and SP, especially in regards to TBN. Stay tuned!
Subscribed. As a tribologist, what is the mechanism behind 996/997 bore scoring? Why the association with colder climates? Is there a contribution from improper oil grade?
Thanks for subscribing. The answers to those questions are beyond the scope of the comments section. We are doing some videos on this topic later this year with the Porsche Club of America.
Cold start and too thick oil will ruin those walls.
Too hot and too thin will do the same.
0W/40 is def the best of the both
Lake, I always find your commentary interesting. Hopefully there will be a PCA Tech Tactics East this year and you will be there! I found your comments about Mobil 1 0w-40 for direct injection engines a little confusing, in light of the fact that this oil is OE for direct injected Porsche engines among others?
Lance, thanks for the comment and the question. I hope we get to have Tech Tactics again as well this year!
In regards to your question, this is exactly why I mentioned LSPI in this video. As a Porsche owner and PCA member myself, I wanted to highlight this fact, and it is fact. High calcium oils don’t pass the ASTM Sequence X LSPI test, but this oil is still being recommended by Porsche.
How is that possible? The simple answer is fuel. Without getting into all the details of LSPI, the premium, 93 octane that Porsche recommends helps prevent LSPI.
The chemistry of the oil is still not ideal for direct injection engines (as noted by the C30 spec using lower calcium in the newer DI engines).
Hopefully we have Tech Tactics again and I can do a full presentation on this topic!
@@themotoroilgeek Thank you for the reply!
Very few European companies have any issues with calcium and LSPI. It is mostly American companies like General Motors and Ford with turbo direct inject engines that have issues with LSPI and want to lower calcium as a band aid fix! Sadly too many "experts" parrot what ever the domestic market says! GM and Lubrizol co-published an SAE White paper on ZDDP poisonings catalytic converts and lead to lower zinc and phosphorus limits in the oil.
Its crazy how much "more tougher" the old engines are..my 90 F150 300-six had the same oil in it for 13 years/40,000 miles...after my Grandfather died they used it on the farm and to the feed store and no one ever changed it until I bought it...great video...
Regarding 3:15, both the website and datasheet NA-US-Mobil-1-FS-0W-40.pdf from 2023 shows that it meets API SP so maybe there was a change?
Great explanation dad
I have a 2023 Covette. What engine oil do you recomend for my car?
The Mobil 1 Supercar oil is the recommended oil for your car.
yes, regarding LSPI, this Mobil has a lot of Calcium. HOWEVER, Audi in Massachusetts (and across USA too?) has gone to using 5W40 Mobil in its oil service. They're putting this oil and I haven't heard of Audi 2.0 TFSI having this issue. I'm might just not have enough info, though.
LSPI is a engine design problem, so US and jap engines will have a problem with this oil, it's a great all round oil.
I was at WCX 2019 when the Ford engineer introduced the term LSPI. Nothing ever happens *before* ignition, but he claimed naming rights. An engineer from Aramco verified it's not detonation, it's autoignition. All the energy in the chamber is accounted for by the energy liberated by the fuel mass (up to 70%). LSPI is an issue in downsized *turbo* engines. High pressure and low rpm (more time for things to go sideways).
Right on!
I love this content. I use Amsoil signature 0w30 in my grand marquis. I'm interested in your thoughts on the oil, and the application.
Thanks for the comment. I've not seen a sample of that oil in some time, but the last time I saw a used oil sample of that product, the wear results looked very good. If my memory serves, it was a higher detergent formula at that time, so it is probably not the best choice for a DI engine. However, they may have updated the formula since then. I'm sure the Amsoil guys could steer you in the right direction if you have a DI engine (I don't think Grand Marquis had a DI engine, so you are probably good).
@@themotoroilgeek thanks for your reply. You are correct with the Grand Marquis not being a di engine. All panther platform vehicles that I'm aware of have had the port injected 4.6L modular V8. I have some sp rated Amsoil 0w30 oil I can send you for voa if you are interested.
@@GlitterGoose that would be interesting!
The main problem with purchasing engine oil is that oil companies in their oil selectors say their oil is comparable substitute, not the suitable or actual substitute. I have bought oil from major brand companies and only topped up oil by just over a pint, and straight away had timing chain guide noises. Then had a manufacturer service two weeks later and the engine was silent. If they don’t have the identical oil, they shouldn’t try to sell you their products.
GM recommends Mobil 1 5w 30 for the 3,6 performance V6 direct injection and VVT. (2012 Cadillac SRX AWD)
It's also recommended for my 99 C5 w/ LS1. I used to be a Valvoline guy (mechanic for 45 years). What sold me on Mobile 1 was I drove my Vette through a big puddle (acally a small lake) that had formed in the middle of the highway during a heavy rainstorm. It hydrolocked and threw #7 rod right through the side of the block. The engine had 145 K on it, I also take it to the track and it also has a 3 core aluminum radiator. I have used M1, changing the oil every 3 to 5k miles.
I tore the engine down and couldn't believe how good of a condition he engine was in. Bearings were PRISTINE and you could still see the crosshatch on the cylinder walls. From my experience, using the same oil every oil change is more important than the brand, as far as tier 1 oils are concerned.
I have also been living off grid for a while and use generators a lot in the winter, or if I'm welding. Generator engines last more than 2x longer when I use the same brand every change. Engines will usually fail pretty quickly using different brands. All I can figure is that the different additive packages can act against each other? Usually more wear a the rings.
Too Verbise
@@claycoates5056 Obviously, in your criticism of another poster, you meant to say - Verbose? Also, describing it as 'Too Verbise' is like saying 'too much excess'.
@@noel270w8 Got to Love it !!!
Mercedes recommends Mobile 1 !
@@noel270w8 Aw this is interesting some one that knows i used the right word there and you are Right it was a little Verbose ALSO
I have a 2004 1.8T Jetta with 225k miles, in which I religiously used Mobil 1 0w-40 European oil for years. We moved from Washington State to South Dakota 3 years ago, and the engine just seems to make more noise. After watching a bunch of #FordBossMe videos, I decided to switch to either Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 or Valvoline Advanced High-Mileage Extended Protection 5w-30, but I couldn't find either right for the oil change right before a road trip. The best I could find was Pennzoil (non-ultra) Platinum 5w-30. We just got back from the trip, and the oil now has about 1500 miles on it. I am impressed. The engine is much quieter and feels much smoother.
Would love to see a comparison of the additive packages used in Ford's 5w50, Castrol Edge SP and Amsoil 5W50 synthetic. Ford's 5w50 is the recommended oil for the 2.3L turbo engine in the Ford Focus RS. Members of the forum are starting to see catastrophic engine failures during low RPM conditions. Lot's of theories. Lot's of engines with tunes possibly leaning A/F mixture at low RPM increasing the possibility of LSPI. Slacker - just happened to me! 2018 @ 42k and @ 5k rpm. No hard acceleration, no ligging, no low rpm event, with 1000mi on new Castrol Edge SP rated. Will elaborate with full info when this nightmare is over. Mild tune from Randy, aka Former Mountune Guy. Been running it for 3 years now with no problems, including about a half dozen track days. Always used Amsoil 5w-50 synthetic, and just changed it 2k miles ago. I was running about 30-40mph (probably 3rd gear but not sure) when I went full throttle. That's when it went boom.
You probably had bent rods. Tuners on the 2.3 platform has NOTORIOUS issues managing boost and boost spike can produce in excess of 650Nm which bends the rods. The engine still runs remarkably well, maybe with a little extra tic-tic as the piston skirts are usually at the bottom of the oil sump so you get a bit of piston rocking/slap noise. After that, anything can happen. More often than not a rod exits the block sideways and the same tuners attribute this to an “LSPI event” which is a silly excuse for their lack of skills. Mountune USA stopped tuning the 2.3 EB for a reason. They will happily send you to X or Y but they don’t assume responsibility for the tuning as a company. If your oil meets the required Ford WSS spec LSPI is never a problem. Additionally the PCM actively monitors and detects LSPI and has mitigations in place. And yes I’m not talking about knock. LSPI.
Very informative video. Before watching this video, I was considering this oil for my late model Chevy Silverado 3500HD with the L8T gasoline engine. The truck will be used for heavy hauling; so, I thought this oil would be a good choice since the viscosity at 100 degrees C is 12.9 which is just about a 30 wt oil threshold. The L8T is a direct injected engine and GM calls for a 5W30. However, the high level of calcium used in the detergent package of Mobil 1 0W40 oil makes it a poor choice for my application. Thanks much for information on this oil.
i use 0W-20 in our COLD winters here in canada, when temps get down to -10 F regularly
The latest formulation of Mobil 1 0w40 FS is now API SP rated as of March 2023 and also gained the BMW LL-01 approval.
We have seen that change only in the last weeks (looking at customer used oil samples). We are going to analyze a fresh sample of the API SP version soon.
@@themotoroilgeek were you able to analyze a customer sample of the new M1 0w-40 formula?
@@elijahkeith5766 We have a sample of the new SP formula being tested right now.
@@themotoroilgeek will there be a video sharing the information?
Your channel has led me down the engine oil rabbit hole and I’m loving the complexity of the subject and teasing out objective findings based on my own UOA experiences and product data sheets vs marketing. I enjoy diving into the technical details, research papers, white papers etc. Do you have a few references to high-level technical resources for people like me?
I’m glad you are enjoying the journey! I’d recommend going to the STLE website (STLE.org). They have some good resources and an excellent list of books (body of knowledge for certification exams).
I've been using this oil in my NA Miata with great results. Great when you want a slightly heavier 30W grade oil but not quite a full step to a "true" 40W.
Your thoughts Redline non-SP rated oils for direct injected non turbo engines? Ok to use their 5w40 for instance? Application would be a late model Chevy LT1. They call for Dexos 2 oils.
Would you be interested in doing a series on the most hotly discussed enthusiast oils? E.g. AMSOIL 75W-90 vs. Shockproof for differentials, special MTL + ATF mixtures for T-56 and TR-6060 transmissions, and various options for engines (e.g. AMSOIL Signature vs. Dominator vs. Redline vs. diesel oil from both companies for DI and port injected cars).
I use this mobil 1 0W-40 in my Mercedes twin turbo 5.5 L M157 Engine with 50k miles. i change every 4k miles and have not had any issues. My engine uses direct injection. If not this oil what do you recommend for my application?
Thanks
Great question. To stay with Mobil 1 and the 0W-40 viscosity, use the ESP version.
Thanks, Lake. Always enjoy your vids!!
Thanks!
Here is what Blackstone had to say regarding my 0W40 viscosity reference range question: “From our end, the viscosity range is fairly typical for a 0W/40 (not straight 40W) and lines up with what Mobil 1 has on their website for this oil, so we think they're a good point of comparison for this oil type. Also, oil doesn't shear linearly, so there's no reason to think that the oil would be below grade just based on time between oil changes.”
I'm not going to throw stones at Blackstone. I just know that the Mobil 1 0W-40 samples are typically below the SAE J300 viscosity spec range.
@@themotoroilgeek I’ve contacted Mobil 1 regarding this and my questions have gone several times up the ranks and are now at the lubrication engineer level in both the US and European tech desks. Let’s see what they have to say!
@@shahrukhbakar3248 That will be very interesting to see what they say!
@@shahrukhbakar3248 Did you ever hear back from Mobil? I'd also be interested in their response. Their customer service has been very good from my experience, I'm impressed that they elevated your question to the engineering level.
Nothing beyond the initial response in Europe.
I just found your videos today and I'm really enjoying all the new found knowledge you offer. I learned that the stated 10-30w has nothing to do with viscosity because of a bit of research I did for motorcycle fork oil. So, my question is how do I see or find the information (chemical make-up and actual viscosity) for oils I'm consider for my cars?
Welcome aboard! The product spec sheets should list that info.
I run this oil in every vehicle I have. 13 5.8L GT500, 14 5.6L Armada, 98 5.4L F150, 04 3L Escape. It is economical in the 12Qt "Garage packs"
You have really good vehicles. Looks like a solid and well-thought choice.
Would u recommend 0w40 in a Hemi Charger ? 55K miles. Florida
@@Sammydx1 as long as it's the Euro version and doesn't but a lot of oil then yes
I have been buying the 12 quart box until just recently when Walmart dropped the price on the 5 quart jug and now the jug is a little cheaper per quart.
You go man, don’t let this nerd tell you what to do.
This oil works very well, for many years now in my 2004 Saab High Output Turbo 2.3 litre, non DI engine. 20 yr old engine, 156k miles.
Amazing video, Lake. Could you do one with Shell Helix Ultra 5w40?
We will add that to our already long list of requests.
0w40 fantastic here in New Hampshire (40 min from Loudon) for cold pull starting my snow blower. Then spending hours and hours digging out 👍👍
Can you compare Mobil1 5w30 Full synthetic to Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 full synthetic?
I'll add that one to my very long list of video requests.
@@themotoroilgeek They say the natural gas Pennzoil has a better additive package than Mobil1. Id like to see the proof of this. Thanks for the reply. Look forward to seeing it down the pipe. New sub. Good info here.
@@Epsonblade I’m curious to check it out as well.
What oil are you running in your 986 Boxster now? I have a 2003 986 Boxster S that I have only used Mobil 1 0W-40 in it. It has almost 140k miles on it now, still has it's original IMSB. I did try a 5W-30 in it one time and at start up the engine rattle a lot. So much that I changed the oil back to the Mobil 1 0W-40 by the end of the week, it was that bad. I don't see a reason to change from the Mobil 1 0W-40.
As of today, it has Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in it. I'm testing that in comparison to a few other oils. I'll do a video on the results once I have them all in.
Gibbs driven dt40
Keep making videos bro I just found your channel
Thanks!
This Euro grade oil is specifically one of the oils recommended in our 2006 Smart Fortwo's owner manual, & it's a diesel
So what do you make of Porsche still recommending M1 0W40 in the 991.2 GT3 which is a 4.0 litre direct-injected engine that runs up to 9000 rpm?
That one makes me scratch my head, but I believe those engines are less susceptible to LSPI because they require premium fuel and are naturally aspirated. If this engine was turbocharged and revved to 6,000, they would not recommend this oil.
Been running M1 0-W40 in my 08 RS4 for 140K miles as it meets VW 502 00. No issues with oil changes every 5K miles...the engine is a 4.2 V8 with DI.
Fantastic video! Does your recommendation against using this for DI engines still hold now that this oil is API SP certified, or do you still recommend the ESP X3 variant because of low SAPS?
Yes, I would still recommend the ESP oil for a DI engine.
@@themotoroilgeek I'd be curious to see how the wear protection and cleanliness of the ESP version compares to this FS version. I've always assumed that the performance of the low and mid SAPS oils isn't as good as these full SAPS oils, but I have never seen it tested.
I use it in this engine in my pic here. CHevy small block. ITs a roller cam motor so no need to worry about lifter riding on cam issues. Love that its a 40 weight.
GM says use ow-40 in newer direct injection engines Wonder why
GM calls for the ESP version of the Mobil 1 0W-40 not the European Formula Mobil 1 0W-40. Very different additive packages.
Been using Mobil 1 syn 5w-30 extended, change every 7k miles, Volvo 5 cylinder turbo starting at 82k miles, now 246k miles, will continue. Also use it in my lawn motor...
I had been using Mobil1 0w-40 Euro in my srt8, but I've switched to Pennzoil ULTRA Platinum 0w-40. Id like to see a critique of PUP 0w-40.
Good advice that hits my situation directly! Thank you!
Just found your channel
Thoughts on running Mobil 1 0w40 in my 07 Charger Hemi ? 55K miles. Florida heat. 0w20 seems to thin
Thanks! 0W-20 is not too thin even in hot climates. Thicker oil actually generates more heat in the engine.
@speediagnostix
Thankyou Bro. I appreciate that
"seems too thin''. Are you basing that on emotion, or actually monitoring your oil pressure (and temp)?
Mobil 1 updated this oil.
It now has kinematic viscosity @ 100 C of 13.8 and the SN Plus certification, which makes it approved for direct injection protection against low-speed pre ignition.
I can't find my data sheet, but I think the calcium level came down quite a bit on this reformulation. From the 3,000 ppm range to 1,200 ppm.
How does this compare to their 5w-40? What 0 or 5w-40 do you recommend for the GDI?
Ow-40 ESP is the recommended oil for C8 and C7 corvettesg. They have direct injection What' s the difference?
The ESP has a much lower level of Calcium. It is a good oil.
@@themotoroilgeekHow is Mobil1 0W-40 “Supercar” for GM’s LT4 high performance V8’s? These engines are direct injection. What do you think?
On the product page for 0W-40 FS, Mobil 1 makes a stronger statement about cleaning than it does about it's other oils: "Provides exceptional cleaning power for your engine". On their other products they make a weaker statement like "...keeping your engine clean"! Which seems to back up many of the reports from folks that it helps "clean" better than other oils. What are your thoughts on that?
The high calcium detergent and ester base stock in this formula will impart increased cleaning ability.
What's the difference betwen the 0w40 European and the 0w40 Supercar (spec'd for the new Camaro and Corvette)?
Hi! Great video, I have a Golf GTE with a 1.4l direct injection tsi engine, I was thinking to put Mobil1 0-40w, but with your explanation about detergents it is not recommend, so how about shell helix ultra 5w30, I live in spain with high temperature weather but in winter it gets cold, and I go to the mountains to ski a lot. Also to mention that the car is hybrid so many times the engine runs with cold oil, but also plenty of time I push the car a lot doing some nice canyon runs with friends. So very difficult choice for viscosity.
Thanks for the comment and question. I’d recommend using a 5W-30 that is GM Dexos 1 approved. I know that sounds weird, but the Dexos oils are tested to prevent LSPI.
@@themotoroilgeek thanks for your fast response, impossible to find dexos 1 in my country with my specification 502 00.
@@TheHawer7 ok, ask Motul what the calcium level is for that oil.
@@themotoroilgeek calcium around 3000, the TBN after 8000km(5000miles) is down to its feet, very difficult to find an oil for my car, being hybrid and running cold oil constantly and then in the weekend completely destroying the redline. The car comes OEM with Castrol Edge Titanium 5w40. I’m continuing searching
@@TheHawer7 out of curiosity, what is the TBN new and used?
I was using that European formula Mobil1 0w40 on my Jdm STi and wrx engines with good results.
I changed to high mile Mobil1 5w30 about a year ago, can you please do a similar technical analysis of the high mile 5w30 ?
Thank you sir.
Subscribed. This is the deeper technical detail research I've been looking for. I use Mobil1 0W40 in my older BMW E46 and Porsche 996 911. Much mystery surrounded this oil on the forums when it went "FS" formulation change a few years ago and dropped it's BMW LL-01 certification yet it retained MB 229.3, 229.5 as well as Porsche's A40. I am a big fan of Jake Raby who is a Porsche engine specialist and has earned notoriety on 996 failures and he has nearly lambasted this Porsche approved Mobil1 0W40 oil as one of the contributers for the 996 engine issues and heavily promotes the more expensive "Driven" line of oils however just about anyone with an automotive engineering background can look at the 996 engine line and identify oil had very little to do with it.
Thanks!
@@themotoroilgeek Any plans on doing a Quaker State 5W40 European formulation soon? Would love to see a comparison to the MB1 European formula.
@@24hourgmtchannel64 I'll have to add that one to the long and rapidly growing list!
Any change of doing lquimoly tests for 5w40. Porsche cayenne suffers from bore score on the earlier models and wonder if the recommended mobil1 could have had anything to do with it. I think we all know oil companies pay car mnf to use their brands , don’t they? You mention it’s no great to use in direct injection cars🤷♂️
@@ianwatson3315 LiquiMoly 5W-40 is an oil we see regularly, so that will be an oil we feature in a future video.
I know u r a busy guy. But if u ever want to do a wear/lubricity test on that mobil1 5w50....that would b great. Just to see how robust that group 4 and 5 is compared to another. Maybe even compared to the 15w50 group 3. I use those oils and it would b cool to see real-life results. Just an idea if u r ever itching to test an oil in that way. Thanks again for all that u do.
So many oils, so little time...
Could you do a video comparing a car brand specific oil like bmw ll-04 / ll-01 vs a brand compatible oil like liquid moly that meets “bmws spec”?
I can see a whole series on the alphabet soup of EOM oil specs and the "meets or exceeds" claims.
I would like to see your review of Shell 5w40 in a VVTI engine
Hi SPEEDiagnostix, hope you are doing well. Rather strange question, but this oil has been recommended via forums for the Volvo SI6 3.2 B6324S engine, as it is closer to a 30, rather than a true 40, after a bit of use, like you mentioned. However you noted that due to the higher calcium/detergent levels it is not ideal for DI engines, which the B6324S is not, but I do have an LPG system on my car, so I was wondering if that would necessitate another oil that would be better suited for the engine? Generally I am looking into understanding if there should be anything else I should look for in oil, to keep the engine working smoothly for as long as possible. I know that the LPG systems are not common in the USA, but your expertise would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for the question. This oil should be great for that application.
@@themotoroilgeek much appreciated! Have a good one and keep up the good work!
@@intoyoursoul23 thanks!
Is this the SN or SP rated version?
What does that excess calcium do to the oxygen sensors and catalytic converters in port injected engines? (I'm mostly concerned about older engines, that consume a little more oil, than when new)
How about PROLONG engine treatment with a fresh oil change using Texaco Havoline Supreme
One of the questions on the exam to become a certified lubrication specialist is "when is it appropriate to use an aftermarket additive in a motor oil?" The answer is never. I have nothing against PROLONG or any other brand of additive, but using an additive in a motor oil is playing chemical Russian Roulette with your engine. I'll do another video explaining all the details as to why.
@@themotoroilgeek I am not an engineer or chemist or mechanic I am a retired heavy class 8 semi truck driver I used prolong engine treatment in two of my personal vehicles and had no issues it reduced the engine revolutions by 100 RPMs you need a vehicle with a Tachometer to see the results the company truck at work was a newer 2001 FLD 120 day cab with a fuller 9 spd and Cat C-12 it also was reduced by 100 RPMs it required 2 quarts of the Prolong purchased at the truck stop never no problems that tractor is still in their fleet today and has over one million miles with no tear down since I no longer drive for them I told the shop foremen about it over coffee he laughed I said yeah I had the nerve years ago to take liberties with company equipment he said they talk about me & that tractor all the time when I drove it never any thing loose or broke always super lean in & out they never had to adjust my brakes or clutch never had to top off my fluids between changes my injectors were always clean my lights always functioned properly my fifth wheel always properly greased but never over the sides yeah I am bragging always respected the equipment & enjoyed it Yes I took liberties with it
@@georgewilson1184 I hear ya. That's what I meant by Russian Roulette - some additives work great for some people, but fail miserably for others. The variables are the oil the additive is added to and the operating conditions of the engine. Not everything works together all the time, so that's why I don't ever recommend using any additives.
I shared this video on a Porsche FB group and mofos are losing their minds. I dont think any of them even watched the video. Just read the title and out came the knives and daggers. 😂
LOL
Yah, Mobil 1 is like a sacred cow among Porsche owners. Dissing Mobile 1 in front of Porsche owners is like dissing the Pope in front of Catholics.
😂
A friend of mine had his engine rebuilt by a guy in Georgia. My friend was told not to use Mobil 1 0w40.
Because this nerd that’s never worked on cars doesn’t know squat!!
great video, for vw 1.2 tsi esp 0w 30 or esp 5 w 30 hich one?
Thanks, go with the 0W-30 ESP