Put this oil in 6 months ago on a 2010 CRV that has always consumed oil when we purchased it used. Car runs like new and no smoke, but has always consumed about a quart of synthetic oil every 1200-1500 miles. Using this Valvoline Restore and Protect has now lowered consumption to right at one quart in 3000 miles in the first oil change. Can't wait to see if it can furthur clean things up even more going forward and lower the oil consumption even more.
@@redlywaxer change your spark plugs and PCV valve and run a few bottles of techron complete fuel system cleaners. If you can't do the plugs at least do the other two and you'll see a big improvement 😜
Just switched over to Valvoline R&P on my '06 Mustang GT at 345k miles. No leaks. Currently consumes 1qt/800 miles. Has been this way for about 2 years. Replaced stem seals last summer with no change. I've so far driven about 500 miles since the change. Hope to see a discernible reduction in oil consumption over the coming year.
@@jrwou1 that’s to bad, the last car I had that used ANY oil between changes was a 2005 Infiniti G35 Sport Sedan. But it was run real hard. I had a 2014 Tundra with 345000 on it that still used NO oil when I retired it. My 2014 GMC Sierra 5.3 and my wife’s 2015 Infiniti Q50, both use no oil.
Let us all know your results! Don’t forget the EGR valve. I have been changing to R&P for all my cars now, but not using any 0W’s in Texas. New cars are calling for 0W-20, but I’m using the 5W30 Valvoline. Lake Speed, Jr. @ The Motor Oil Geek channel has already done the oil analysis. Also, try a 5-10 minute warmup before driving, as well as, the “Italian Tuneup” (extended high speed freeway cruising).
@@PianoTuningArtistA few things. Don’t see how you think an EGR is contributing to oil consumption. Not possible. Also modern vehicles don’t benefit from a “warm up” period. As soon as oil pressure is established you can drive and this has been validated by millions of miles through R&D in varied environmental conditions by folks a lot smarter than you and I. I have a varied background in engine rebuilding so this isn’t my first rodeo.
@@nordicpride9708totally correct, the longer an engine runs at a cold temperature warming up the more the oil has a chance to get past the rings and diluted with fuel the #1 contributor to motor oil contamination. The most wear occurs at startup but after oil pressure is achieved the vehicle is fine to drive. While it’s not advisable to run the engine hard or at high rpm until up to operating temp it will not hurt it taking off as soon as it is running.
My dad started using Mobil 1 in the late 80s when it came out in his new (at the time) Chevy conversion van. At 12 years and 120,000 miles it had a puff of smoke when starting up due to valve seals (service bulletin) so my dad wanted the engine replaced because my parents drove across country with it. When I pulled the engine you could practically eat off the valley because there was no sludge. You could still see the factory cross hatch in the cylinders from the hone. That made me a 100 percent believer in synthetic oils. I use Supertech synthetic from Walmart because it is cheap and GM Dexos II approved 😉👍
Personally Quaker State Full Synthetic (used to be Ultimate Durability) is better. Valvoline has always been a top oil though and this new product looks very interesting. I think I will try it.
@@FunWithCars716Definitely. I read 540rat blog for years, and Quaker State has come out on top, even besting Amsoil a couple times. The recent DEXOS 3 oils though are all worse than their DEXOS 2 counterparts in terms of wear protection. And they also don't seem to have higher temperature thermal breakdown. Obviously, mobile one is also in the top oils, so it's not like you would be doing your car disservice by using it. I was just mentioning that Quaker State did test better in his testing suite, and it typically would cost less due to not being as popular.
I had a 1991 Chevy Corsica with a 3.1 v6 I used Mobile1 300,000 miles on the motor the car rusted away the motor was still running. I owned a 2000 Lumina 3.1 Mobile 1 250,000 mile the tranny went the motor was still running great. I had a 2006 Ford F-150 150,000 mile on Mobile1 . The truck was totaled in an accident, the motor was still running great . I now have a 2017 Explorer with a twin turbo 3.5 and now using Pennzoil Ultra Premium oil , I read and watched plenty of videos saying this oil is great for turbo engines . I have 76,000 miles , so far so good
ive got 250K miles on a 2006 2.4 liter caravan, everything original except the radiator and alternator. oil changes every 3K, transmission fluid and filter changes every 30K miles
Sometimes they'll do classic rookie mistakes like leave the oil cap off or the air intake unclipped. There's been multiple times where I've been to tire shops & the psi is way off in my tires. It almost seemed deliberate.
yeah but the difference is that sometimes restaurants don't do as good of a job as you could have done at home and sometimes they do a much better job than what you could do at home. that's not the case with an oil change.
The oil geek did a nice video on this as well. He had the oil tested to see the components in it. I’m giving it a shot in my car. It’s got the sulphur smell like gear oil.
What is the viscosity of your oil? I've heard that the newer 0W-8 and 0W-16 oils have the sulfur gear oil smell, probably from extreme pressure additives.
Our family bought a 2003 Honda Pilot brand new and it has never missed an oil change since new. At the last oil change with 137,000 miles on it I went from the factory oil blend to this Restore and Protect full synthetic oil. Then I took my standard route from Orange County up to Lake Tahoe (3x’s a year to visit family) normally average 18.5 mpg on this 1000 mile round trip journey. Much to my amazement I averaged 22.5 just this last week!!! That’s 10 gallons less!!! Here in California 87 averages just about $5/gal … $50 savings! Actual savings!!! I’m so jazzed I found a product that actually performs as promised!!! A real life test in a 21 year old yesteryear technology SUV … (still running on the original AC compressor and has never required a recharge!) This tried and true Mountain Goat has many trips left in her!
My second oil change after 1000 miles so I could cut open my oil filter. This oil WORKS no doubt. My valves and lifters are so shiny not burnt looking. Cylinder heads, spotless. Carbon so was thick on them I didn't think my boroscope was working. Now I can see metal. This time around going to let oil stay in it for full 3000, not attempting the 10,000.
I have a 3 gen 4Runner with 278 thousand miles and no oil leaks anywhere . Right now I'm putting Mobil 1 high mileage every 3000 miles, I'm wondering if I change to Valvoline restore and protect will I start seeing oil leaks?
Good video, loved the fact this guy is an Engineer, knows this subject. .... What many people might not know, is that the pistons have always been a weak spot with engine oils. They get deposits, get fouled-up, and the rings might stop working like they should. (Oils over the last 50 years have been pretty good at keeping sludge and wear down, no problem with those issues.) This is the first oil attacking piston deposits specifically, this aggressivley, removing them, where other oils just hope not to lay down as much deposits over time.
Good oil and clean oil. I go to 3000 miles. Could go 5000 miles in newer engines. No soot in exhaust! Barrymans B 12 in gas! Clean filters! Happy driving!
In 1969, I cured my. Engine from smoking at all. Upon start up and driving at any speed. I used automatic transmission fluid and STP. Alternatively refilling as needed with them. It took about two months and all smoke was gone. All rings freed up.
Lordy, the advice to stick with the OEM intervals is more about Valvoline not wanting to piss off carmakers than what is actually best for your engine over the long-term. You could see it in his smirk when asked the question.
@@Birdmacher I would not go beyond 4k miles on a conventional oil, preferably 3k miles, and 5k miles on a good synthetic. Oil and filters are cheap, engines are not.
I have a 35 year old GMC 1500 truck with 142,000 miles. I have always used regular Valvoline oil, changed every 4,000 miles. Uses very little oil. Can I switch to Valvoline Restore and Protect synthetic without adverse effects on engine oil leaks and usage....or should I leave well enough alone. Ron
The problem with owners manuals today is that people can read them but not understand them fully. They don't understand the difference between severe driving and non severe driving. Most people out there fall under the severe driving category. Which means more frequent oil changes. I personally stick to highway driving as much as possible because it's better for the engine, and transmission.
I use Liqui-Moly MolyGen. Including a better breathing air intake and a mild reflash my Toyota 2ZZ-GE engine rated at 27/28 mpg gets 33/34 mpg. I am just over 5000 miles on this last change, have not burned a drop and is near perfectly clean on an 8500 rpm engine.
I use 5w-40 Pennzoil Platinum Euro synthetic in my VW Golf MK7 1.8t with a Stage one tune and my Blackstone oil analysis have been excellent. Oil consumption is almost non-existent.
This is interesting, the mechanic we take our truck At work recommended Valvoline saying they had the best package of Additive package of any other manufacture even mobile one which I used to use a lot.I have a 2014 GMC sierra pick up with the 5.3 L multi displacement engine. It says to use 0-20 oil the mechanic recommended 5000 mile oil changes and using 5W 30 instead.
With modern full synthetics, the old nantea of every 3,000 miles is no longer appropriate. While some owners manuals now have intervals from 7500 - 10,000 miles. I change every 5,000 and have gotten over 300,000k in an Outback and 450,000 in a Prius. My Crossfire says 10,000 intervals but I still do 5,000 intervals with no engine issues in any of my vehicles
The Synthetic doesn’t break down, but dirt & fuel dilution reduces actual service life. Stop & Go City driving, rush hour traffic, towing, high & low temperatures, and extended idling are all considered “severe” duty driving conditions which reduce “recommended” drain intervals.
No matter what happen even regular oil as long as you change your oil every 3k miles until now im still using regular oil had 2003 accord with 365k miles and it runs like champion
I watched the restore and protect video on a different channel , the video was done at the warehouse and it was very impressive.. I'll definitely give it a try
Assuming this removes deposits, is there a danger of plugging oil ducts and passages with the floaters? Seems like a risk in engines with heavy deposition.
@@shenanigansagain5273 They suggest 3-4 oil changes to slowly remove the deposits and won't clog your filter. During this time, I am using a Purolator Boss during these few oil changes. Then back to my Valvoline Extended Performance High-Mileage. But I am doing shorter oil changes using the Restore and Protect after watching Lake Speeds video.
I do not know if Valvoline is trying to promote and advertise other new oil advance products, but Penzoil does this job very well in New and old cars with same aditives that Valvoline uses. The difference is that Penzoil uses natural gas and Valvoline doesn't.
@@hansenriquerach-mendoza3515 Pennzoils ultra platinum and platinum products aren’t anything like Valvoline. Ultra for example uses GTL (gas to liquid) base oil. Valvoline does not use GTL. Not saying that’s good or bad, just that they are in fact different. The additive packages are also different. Valvoline is the only over the counter PCMO that has been found to CLEAN the inside of your engine (specifically your ring packs). Pennzoil DOES NOT claim to do this in ANY literature. It claims to KEEP an engine clean, big difference!
@@nordicpride9708 Why are you so certain and believe that Penzoil doesn't have the same benefits? You should go the website updates then take an eye sigh for a thourough cleaning piston reseaches findings in the small letters.. Good luck!
I have a 2002 chevy ZR2 and tried all the top 10 engine oils available ! The pennzoil ultra platinum so far is the best ! And $27 for a 5qrt jug and free shipping is a no brainer ! All my other vehicles get supertech every 3 to 4k and no issues whats so ever ! Im still going to try restore n protect soon !
I've been running Pennz U-P in my Altima since I bought it, I'm sitting at 205K miles and I don't have any leaks or even seepage I still cannot believe it.
I'm not sure what to do! I have been using full synthetic high mileage. My truck has 250, 000 mi on it. The oil I'm using causes the seals to swell. If I start to use this, will I start having oil leaks? Will the seals shrink? Thanks!
@@gregb.7564 i doubt they'll shrink but it's theoretically possible i guess. Worst that can probably happen is it seeps ever so slightly and u can then resume using high mile oil. Or if u want to spend a bit extra, quite a bit now at 20$/bottle, the ATP 205 is the actual chemical that causes the swelling, ie it's a true stop leak.
Coach very interesting video, our three Good Year repair shops were Valvoline users. One of my older customers in the early eighties gave me a Valvoline 18k tie clasp with the logo and 100 year Valvoline anniversary from 1864 to 1964 which I still have. Valvoline has always been a good oil brand. With other oils a person needs to be mind full of the word blend, I believe it can be as low as 18% synthetic, I always recommended full synthetic for the small difference in price compared to the much better benefit especially here in Florida with the high humidity. Thanks to Mike Warholic.
Full synthetic doesn't mean 100% synthetic. It means highly refined minimum 20% synthetic. Amsoil is the only 100% synthetic oil. I just tried Royal Purple for the first time from Mobile 1 on a 238,000 Mile 2022 Prius Prime I use to do Uber. It made a huge difference in engine noise. I'm going to do amsoil soon but I'm very happy with Royal Purple. I thought I was happy with Mobil 1. Been lifelong customer but the change in the sound of the engine is crazy. I used to get complements from passengers about how quite the engine was when it was running. That stopped around 180,000 miles. 2nd day on Royal Purple and I got a complement from a passenger at 237,000 miles.
@@cc-tb3st Actually, Amsoil is not 100% synthetic. It's a marketing term used. Ford Boss man had an oil analysis done on the Signature series and it wasn't 100% synthetic. It doesn't matter if it says full synthetic or 100% synthetic. It's just a marketing term used. I am not saying Amsoil isn't good but it costs a lot more money than the other major brands.
I'm tempted to use it. I still have five quarts of Pennzoil ultra Platinum. they say you're supposed to do it 4 times to get the full effect. my car's got 225k I'd be curious to see what it does for it
There is no confusion... Lubricants are supposed to meet certain standards based on applications. If you are a DIY oil changer, consult your owners manual and buy the proper oil. And don't forget. Your engine is equipped with a miniature oil filter that must be changed also, every time you change the oil. My preference is every 3K-5K miles.
Just put this in a ‘12 Prius with ~125K. No oil consumption to this point but I figure why not? I honestly was surprised how good the engine sounded after the change with this compared to the oil I always had from the lube place. I’m really hoping this oil will keep the oil control ring from eventually sticking. I’m also going to change just the oil filter in ~2K miles just in case it frees up too much gunk for the filter to handle.
I've been using Valvoline full-synthetic, high-mileage oil for the last 15 years. I've had 3 cars in that time and I love it. That said, there's more to cleaning an engine than the type of oil you use. There are risks involved. First, it's not enough to merely REMOVE the dirt and carbon particles. You need to DISSOLVE them. A vehicle's engine has many micro-holes where oil needs to travel through freely in order to get where it needs to be. A particle removed from one area, but not dissolved or reduced in size properly can easily become wedged somewhere else where it could easily do more damage than it would have in its original location. Secondly, particles that aren't dissolved at least need to be trapped somewhere where they can't do any damage. Enter the oil filter. Using a quality oil filter is absolutely sacrosanct in every oil change. In fact, it's more important than even the oil itself. I use K&N. I believe it's the best you can find at retail (barring online) and it's often included as part of oil change specials. Third, NEVER use those so-called quick-lube places under ANY circumstances. Most of the owners of those places are complete crooks and their employees are usually just 20 minutes out of a rehab facility! If you can't do the job yourself, at least find a reputable mechanic whom you trust to do the job for you. And always bring your own oil and filter.
The “quality” Synthetic Oils don’t break down, but dirt & fuel dilution reduces actual service life. Stop & Go City driving, rush hour traffic, towing, high & low temperatures, and extended idling are all considered “severe” duty driving conditions which reduce “recommended” drain intervals.
I have 2017 honda Accord with oil consumption start using Liqui moly engine flush before oil change ,after second use no more oil consumption!I think the problem was with stuck rings because of deposit built up!
valvoline max life high mileage advanced full synthetic is an oil that can absolutely fix leaks, reduce and remove sludge, and reduce oil consumption, seen it first hand on many vehicles. catch is to use it consistently and at frequent regular intervals
Can you use valvoline restore protect on gmc sierra since it calls for dexos and the bottle doeant say it but waa told can use on any type vehichle dont wana hurt my motor if cant
Very few oil makers will tell you the NOACK of their oils. Only few do, like Ravenol, Liqui'Moly... Generally when the NOACK is not mentioned it means it s
Will Restore and Protect have any negative impact on the engine seals? E.g. valve cover gasket, rear main seal, etc. I.e. will it make the gasket/seals more inclined to leak or is it safe in that regard?
Can You? Nothing is stopping ya... That said you didn't specify if your Chevy is still under warranty... If you should need any Warranty Coverage, GM might not appreciate you not using a "Recommended" Dexos rated Oil, etc... If you read Valvoline's FAQ about Restore and Protect... They are suggesting for Users that want/need a Dexos rated Oil to use Valvoline Advanced (which is Dexos rated). Otherwise, Valvoline is claiming Restore and Protect is its best Oil option. For applications calling for API SP/GF6A and prior classifications. For my 2014 GMC Terrain (113K miles) it is long out of Warranty... And would have been recommended to use Dexos (Gen 1, 2010-2015). While API SN+ and SP are catching up to Dexos (Gen 2 and Gen 3)... Dexos Gen 3 still has an edge on several fronts. So if you are planning to continue using the Manual's recommended Time/Miles/OLM... You may want to stay with a Dexos rated option. Alternatively, see what your manual/dealership suggests about using non Dexos Oils. They might suggest using a specific Change Interval? For example my Terrain's OLM "allows" 6-8K miles before it considers the Oil Life to be nearing 0% and warn to change.... But because of Fuel Dilution (5%) issues (Shorter Trips, Stop and Go, excess idling) its Oil (a 5W30, Dexos Gen3) was already "due" at just (3,000 miles/8 months) 54% Oil Life Remaining... I'll be trying Restore and Protect in my 2003 Saturn ION (which doesn't have a Dexos requirement, just API SL or better) first, when I have a handle on my Terrain's Fuel Dilution (and have a baseline on any wear numbers I'll feel more comfortable "experimenting" with the "new" engine and not risk unforseen failures because the GM engine "needs" something specified by Dexos but not (so much) by API SP...
@@RedArmor24 What is your source? Haven't found much on the subject... Been reading GF-7 was initially proposed for like 2028... API "SQ" and Dexos1 Gen 4 maybe around 2027?
I was wondering the same thing. I'm currently testing it out on a 2007 mini cooper S, these engines are notorious for clogging up intake valves. I've only been running the oil for about 900 miles, but I feel like I've got a bit more power. It could be that the rings are getting clean and doing a better job sealing.
Would this work for a 1987 F-250 with a 460cid that's got 150k+ on it? I've never had any synthetic oil in it and the recommended minimum viscosity oil is 10-30W. I'm leery about putting a 5-30W oil in it. Should I be concerned, or no worries? What's weird is that I don't see any leaks and no noticeable smoke, yet I'm using a quart every 120 miles when long tripping it at 65mph on the freeway! ( I only use it for a trip north, 875 mi. each way ). The engine has good oil pressure, doesn't make any unusual noises and runs great. All the plugs look clean w/ a light reddish tan ash, except for #8. Very sooty and slightly wet w/oil. Bore inspection camera shows the cylinder wall to be in the same condition as all the others. Hone swirl patterns are still visible and equal on all 8. Seized oil rings? Disintegrated valve stem seals? Leaking intake manifold gasket? It's got me stumped.
Hello! Lauren, Steve Saleen just announced a partnership with a French company that is going to build a hydrogen combustion V6 twin turn engine for his new supercar. Also, I am back and will comment first . Hope you are doing well. Been a long time and I have lots of catching up to do with videos.
@@hanynowsky3.5 would make it a Euro spec oil, there are a few 5W30s with 3.5-3.6 HTHS, all Euro. I doubt it is that high. I'm using Valvoline HM EP and it has a pretty high non-Euro HTHS for a 5W30 - 3.3.
Hard to get hold of in UK. Amazon does not ship this to UK for some reason. Need a 5W 30 or 5W 40 Restore and Protect so come on Valvoline, sort it you'll male much more money.
I used Valvoline R and P on my well maintained Ford V10 it dried out my valve seals. Luckily, I caught it early 500 miles. Dumped it and changed to Penzoil platinum ultra with 1 bottle of ATP 205, no more blue smoke at start-up. Be careful when using this stuff. i think Scotty Kilmer is right. Your high milage engine needs to build up a certain amount of build up, you get rid of it, and it will cause problems.
Same Question I have. My local manager for O'Reilly's has convinced me to go Valvoline High Mileage. Now this pops up 2 days ago and I've seen at least 5 video's on it. They all Love this oil!
I started using high mileage at 60k. Switching to restore and protect for the next 4 oil changes. Then going back to high mileage. I'm at 250k on a 15 Sienna.
I have to take this with a bit of salt: No oil can Restore worn parts. If the cams - mains and seals are worn they have too be replaced. All oils have detergents that will keep deposits floating so that they can be captured by the filter. As for cleaning out the oil rings most oils with do that as well if they are not too burnt and clogged. Ford Boss Me had the oil tested with Blackstone and the detergent package was not much more than any other motor oil. Conclusion.....No matter the brand regular oil/filter changes will prevent sludge build up and engine wear.
@@markwarnberg9504 The lab oil analysis only uses a known predefined template to list values of multiples properties like common additives package. But it won t tell you what legacy cleaning molecule formula the oil has as it s proprietary. The lab can t tell you how the Natural gas GTL technology of Shell is blended for example. R&P claims it can restore pistons to factory operation not to restore them after they are worn. If the pistons are worn, the driver won t even think about oil anymore but rebuilding the engine as this latter would be running very rough. R&P has a slow working formula that dissolves hardened carbon layers and chunks from compression rings, oil.scraper rings and piston oil.holes. In some cases sticky pistons get freed up which restores compression and smooth stroking And on most cases, oil burning is significantly reduced which in turn improves fuel effeciency and overall performances. What R&P cannot do is clean the top of the piston (Fuel additives ' role)
I'm just curious ..I wonder what the duration was of an oil change during that actual testing of the piston cleaning etc. I believe you said for oil changes… Wonder what the total amount of mileage was or hours or time etc.?🤔
Nothing can keep valves free of carbon in a pure direct-injection engine. Toyota has a hybrid (blended type) fuel-injection engine, which does keep intake valves clean (provided the gasoline has PEA detergent).
5K miles max - oem recommendations are ludicrous now. They raise them to the max to show lower TCO, which is also why many say never change the trans fluid Plus at 5K you can rotate the tires…
There are alot of videos saying full synthetic is not good for an engine,also every oil change before n after i add an ounce of Marvel Mystery oil also add to fuel it helps clean deposits for sure
NO MORE THAN 5K OIL CHANGE INTERVALS AND WITH THE POPULARITY OF FORCED INDUCTION IM CHANGING MINE TURBO BOXER ENGINE WITH 3K MILE INTERVALS. FUEL DILUTION IS ALSO HIGHER IN THESE DIRECT INJECTED ENGINES..LIKE OTHERS SAID OIL IS CHEAP INSURANCE COMPARED TO EVEN THE CHEAPEST JUNKYARD REPLACEMENTS.
I would never go over 3000 miles between changes. Oil is cheap compared to the price of a engine. A old school way of cleaning deposits is to replace a quart of oil with transmission fluid or use Marvel Mystery Oil. The man is correct about using a mild product to clean deposits off the engine. If you are too aggressive. You can plug up your oil pick up screen and your sump and starve the engines pump thus the entire engine.
"Always follow your OEM guidelines..." That is true, but what a majority of people don't actually do is READ THE OWNER'S MANUAL when it talks about driving conditions. Most, if not all manufacturers have what they call "normal" and "extended" driving conditions. What most consider "normal" is not even close to what a majority of people are really driving. The longer oil change durations (5k, 8k, 10k, etc.) are only for those that follow the manufacturer's normal driving conditions. Those normal conditions are typically 8k -10k miles/yr, and not in heavy traffic, not in stop and go traffic, not in dusty/dirty areas, not making multiple short trips throughout the day/commute as well as slower acceleration and lower speeds. Therefore, everyone that is not driving in those conditions are in the extended category, and should stick to the manufacturer's recommended interval of 3k miles for every oil change.
Amsoil has been making this type of oil for years,but you pay for the technology.People love cheap and good,this may be a choice for them. Penzoil has also improved.
I bought some really cheap motor oil called Golden Supreme 1qt. for 3.99, it says anti-foaming additive. This stuff has some kind of cleaning additve that expells dirt from the inner chain links where you can't lubricate, the link sucks in the oil then expells it with the dirt thats inside the link, when you apply it on a motorcycle chain you can see black dirt comming out of each link without scrubbing,,,,,,so nowadays even cheap stuff has gotton better, I wouldn't use it on a car engine or motorcycle engine but for lubricating chains and power generators it seems good. Supermarket oil😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄.
I have been using Amsoil in my 2019 ram Classic HEMI 5.7 and I have 56,000 miles on it. No issues whatsoever and I have it full bolt on with a cam and MDS deleted. It runs super strong I guess it is just preference on oil.
You mean like Amsoil has done for years? I’d be willing to bet that Ashland Oil has already had independent testing done on their product but haven’t released any data yet. Most top tier lubricants use third party testing in their product development.
@@prevost8686 Valvoline is the only oil company with their own API certified lab in house, so they are not going to do 3rd party testing. Would make no sense to pay for and maintain your own independently certified lab only to outsource the work.
Yeah yeah, very nice; but until I see the results from independent tests I'm not a believer. Manufacturer's claims and reality are too frequently not the same thing.
@@CarCoachReports That's not in question; synth oil is superior to conventional oil and that has been demonstrated in test after test. What's in question is whether or not Valvoline's 'Restore and Protect' does what they claim it does. And another thing; an oil's detergent characteristics are only part of the story. I also want to see its anti-wear properties and how it holds up under high operating temperatures. I don't believe the marketing. I want to see how it performs on the ASTM test charts. Additionally; racing is a poor way to chose your motor oil. Race engines are typically rebuilt after every race. They don't have to worry about most of the things we need to be concerned about in our daily drivers and racing teams will use oil from whatever sponsor is offering the best perks.
Hi, Happy to meet you online. Am Eric a mechanical engineer in Nairobi Kenya. I like working on cars so I do a lot of research about cars. I would really love to know more about this lubricant and also if it’s possible for me to be your agent in Kenya. Otherwise am happy for you guys
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I am waiting for its 'revolutionary' claim to be tested and verified by Project Farm.
. . . We're going to test that!
@@CrowdSurfingGeezer Wish I could see when you do.
Exactly right 😆
"We're gonna test that!"
Love project farm!
Put this oil in 6 months ago on a 2010 CRV that has always consumed oil when we purchased it used. Car runs like new and no smoke, but has always consumed about a quart of synthetic oil every 1200-1500 miles. Using this Valvoline Restore and Protect has now lowered consumption to right at one quart in 3000 miles in the first oil change. Can't wait to see if it can furthur clean things up even more going forward and lower the oil consumption even more.
@@redlywaxer change your spark plugs and PCV valve and run a few bottles of techron complete fuel system cleaners. If you can't do the plugs at least do the other two and you'll see a big improvement 😜
Just switched over to Valvoline R&P on my '06 Mustang GT at 345k miles. No leaks. Currently consumes 1qt/800 miles. Has been this way for about 2 years. Replaced stem seals last summer with no change. I've so far driven about 500 miles since the change. Hope to see a discernible reduction in oil consumption over the coming year.
@@jrwou1 that’s to bad, the last car I had that used ANY oil between changes was a 2005 Infiniti G35 Sport Sedan. But it was run real hard. I had a 2014 Tundra with 345000 on it that still used NO oil when I retired it. My 2014 GMC Sierra 5.3 and my wife’s 2015 Infiniti Q50, both use no oil.
Let us all know your results! Don’t forget the EGR valve. I have been changing to R&P for all my cars now, but not using any 0W’s in Texas. New cars are calling for 0W-20, but I’m using the 5W30 Valvoline. Lake Speed, Jr. @ The Motor Oil Geek channel has already done the oil analysis.
Also, try a 5-10 minute warmup before driving, as well as, the “Italian Tuneup” (extended high speed freeway cruising).
@@PianoTuningArtistA few things. Don’t see how you think an EGR is contributing to oil consumption. Not possible. Also modern vehicles don’t benefit from a “warm up” period. As soon as oil pressure is established you can drive and this has been validated by millions of miles through R&D in varied environmental conditions by folks a lot smarter than you and I. I have a varied background in engine rebuilding so this isn’t my first rodeo.
@@nordicpride9708totally correct, the longer an engine runs at a cold temperature warming up the more the oil has a chance to get past the rings and diluted with fuel the #1 contributor to motor oil contamination. The most wear occurs at startup but after oil pressure is achieved the vehicle is fine to drive. While it’s not advisable to run the engine hard or at high rpm until up to operating temp it will not hurt it taking off as soon as it is running.
Have you posted an update on your results?
My dad started using Mobil 1 in the late 80s when it came out in his new (at the time) Chevy conversion van. At 12 years and 120,000 miles it had a puff of smoke when starting up due to valve seals (service bulletin) so my dad wanted the engine replaced because my parents drove across country with it. When I pulled the engine you could practically eat off the valley because there was no sludge. You could still see the factory cross hatch in the cylinders from the hone. That made me a 100 percent believer in synthetic oils. I use Supertech synthetic from Walmart because it is cheap and GM Dexos II approved 😉👍
Personally Quaker State Full Synthetic (used to be Ultimate Durability) is better.
Valvoline has always been a top oil though and this new product looks very interesting. I think I will try it.
@@Jimster481 Quaker State a solid brand of oil, you can't go wrong with it!
@@FunWithCars716Definitely. I read 540rat blog for years, and Quaker State has come out on top, even besting Amsoil a couple times. The recent DEXOS 3 oils though are all worse than their DEXOS 2 counterparts in terms of wear protection. And they also don't seem to have higher temperature thermal breakdown.
Obviously, mobile one is also in the top oils, so it's not like you would be doing your car disservice by using it. I was just mentioning that Quaker State did test better in his testing suite, and it typically would cost less due to not being as popular.
You think super tech oil from waltmart is a good oil???
is this an AI assisted bot? can't tell anymore
I had a 1991 Chevy Corsica with a 3.1 v6 I used Mobile1 300,000 miles on the motor the car rusted away the motor was still running. I owned a 2000 Lumina 3.1 Mobile 1 250,000 mile the tranny went the motor was still running great. I had a 2006 Ford F-150 150,000 mile on Mobile1 . The truck was totaled in an accident, the motor was still running great . I now have a 2017 Explorer with a twin turbo 3.5 and now using Pennzoil Ultra Premium oil , I read and watched plenty of videos saying this oil is great for turbo engines . I have 76,000 miles , so far so good
ive got 250K miles on a 2006 2.4 liter caravan, everything original except the radiator and alternator. oil changes every 3K, transmission fluid and filter changes every 30K miles
Letting someone else change your oil is like eating at a restaurant. You don't actually know what you got.
Yep! Hence why I never like other people working on my vehicle because you never know what kind of a mechanic you will get, working on your car.
Sometimes they'll do classic rookie mistakes like leave the oil cap off or the air intake unclipped. There's been multiple times where I've been to tire shops & the psi is way off in my tires. It almost seemed deliberate.
@@dontblameme6328 Toyota dealership left my drain plug loose.
You got that right
yeah but the difference is that sometimes restaurants don't do as good of a job as you could have done at home and sometimes they do a much better job than what you could do at home. that's not the case with an oil change.
The oil geek did a nice video on this as well. He had the oil tested to see the components in it. I’m giving it a shot in my car. It’s got the sulphur smell like gear oil.
Hopefully, he gives us real world results soon. I want to know if I need o make the switch for all my Toyotas
@@Hernsama Toyotas past 1985 suck, only dorks drive them.
@@bluefordpickup Toyota's from 2000s are not bad especially the "Asian" corollas and vitz
What is the viscosity of your oil? I've heard that the newer 0W-8 and 0W-16 oils have the sulfur gear oil smell, probably from extreme pressure additives.
@@Tsuter1978 I think I'm the only one that likes the smell of gear 🛢️ oil 😉. Reminds me of the smell of a shop when I was a kid 👍
Our family bought a 2003 Honda Pilot brand new and it has never missed an oil change since new. At the last oil change with 137,000 miles on it I went from the factory oil blend to this Restore and Protect full synthetic oil. Then I took my standard route from Orange County up to Lake Tahoe (3x’s a year to visit family) normally average 18.5 mpg on this 1000 mile round trip journey. Much to my amazement I averaged 22.5 just this last week!!! That’s 10 gallons less!!! Here in California 87 averages just about $5/gal … $50 savings! Actual savings!!! I’m so jazzed I found a product that actually performs as promised!!! A real life test in a 21 year old yesteryear technology SUV … (still running on the original AC compressor and has never required a recharge!) This tried and true Mountain Goat has many trips left in her!
My second oil change after 1000 miles so I could cut open my oil filter. This oil WORKS no doubt. My valves and lifters are so shiny not burnt looking. Cylinder heads, spotless. Carbon so was thick on them I didn't think my boroscope was working. Now I can see metal. This time around going to let oil stay in it for full 3000, not attempting the 10,000.
Port or Direct injection?
Yeah we want to know the injection system you have in the vehicle.
Carbureted
@@noidea3177Sounds like DI with that much carbon, but let’s hear the answer.
I have a 3 gen 4Runner with 278 thousand miles and no oil leaks anywhere . Right now I'm putting Mobil 1 high mileage every 3000 miles, I'm wondering if I change to Valvoline restore and protect will I start seeing oil leaks?
Good video, loved the fact this guy is an Engineer, knows this subject. .... What many people might not know, is that the pistons have always been a weak spot with engine oils. They get deposits, get fouled-up, and the rings might stop working like they should. (Oils over the last 50 years have been pretty good at keeping sludge and wear down, no problem with those issues.) This is the first oil attacking piston deposits specifically, this aggressivley, removing them, where other oils just hope not to lay down as much deposits over time.
Good oil and clean oil. I go to 3000 miles. Could go 5000 miles in newer engines. No soot in exhaust! Barrymans B 12 in gas! Clean filters! Happy driving!
In 1969, I cured my. Engine from smoking at all. Upon start up and driving at any speed.
I used automatic transmission fluid and STP. Alternatively refilling as needed with them. It took about two months and all smoke was gone. All rings freed up.
Lordy, the advice to stick with the OEM intervals is more about Valvoline not wanting to piss off carmakers than what is actually best for your engine over the long-term. You could see it in his smirk when asked the question.
100% This guy knows better.. Should be around 5K Too many professionals agree with this number.
@@Birdmacher I would not go beyond 4k miles on a conventional oil, preferably 3k miles, and 5k miles on a good synthetic. Oil and filters are cheap, engines are not.
I have a 35 year old GMC 1500 truck with 142,000 miles. I have always used regular Valvoline oil, changed every 4,000 miles. Uses very little oil. Can I switch to Valvoline Restore and Protect synthetic without adverse effects on engine oil leaks and usage....or should I leave well enough alone. Ron
The problem with owners manuals today is that people can read them but not understand them fully. They don't understand the difference between severe driving and non severe driving. Most people out there fall under the severe driving category. Which means more frequent oil changes. I personally stick to highway driving as much as possible because it's better for the engine, and transmission.
I use Liqui-Moly MolyGen. Including a better breathing air intake and a mild reflash my Toyota 2ZZ-GE engine rated at 27/28 mpg gets 33/34 mpg. I am just over 5000 miles on this last change, have not burned a drop and is near perfectly clean on an 8500 rpm engine.
Liqui-Moly is trash. We're talking about Valvoline.
I also have a 2ZZ-GE engine. I run Petronas 5W 40. Change oil every 3000 miles.
@@bluefordpickup Premium price for average oil
Liquid Moly. Great OILS,, 👍 👌
I use 5w-40 Pennzoil Platinum Euro synthetic in my VW Golf MK7 1.8t with a Stage one tune and my Blackstone oil analysis have been excellent. Oil consumption is almost non-existent.
Thanks for the info 👍🏻 I’ve been a firm believer/user of synthetic oils for a very long time.
This is interesting, the mechanic we take our truck At work recommended Valvoline saying they had the best package of Additive package of any other manufacture even mobile one which I used to use a lot.I have a 2014 GMC sierra pick up with the 5.3 L multi displacement engine. It says to use 0-20 oil the mechanic recommended 5000 mile oil changes and using 5W 30 instead.
I have seen on another site that valvoline does have a great package.
I do that with my hemi with mds cyl shutdown and it runs quieter and smoother
What about diesel engines
With modern full synthetics, the old nantea of every 3,000 miles is no longer appropriate. While some owners manuals now have intervals from 7500 - 10,000 miles. I change every 5,000 and have gotten over 300,000k in an Outback and 450,000 in a Prius. My Crossfire says 10,000 intervals but I still do 5,000 intervals with no engine issues in any of my vehicles
And idiots like you cry when you have to spend money fixing your engine. Change the oil ever 3500 miles. You don't want your oil dark and dirty
Any vehicle can go unlimited distances ya throw enough parts at it. Facts.
@@jameswright5808 still do mine at 3500 miles. Just an old habit that's hard to break.
The Synthetic doesn’t break down, but dirt & fuel dilution reduces actual service life. Stop & Go City driving, rush hour traffic, towing, high & low temperatures, and extended idling are all considered “severe” duty driving conditions which reduce “recommended” drain intervals.
@@PianoTuningArtist 100% agree smart man
Has Valvoline publicly released the actual data/findings on the Restore and Protect formulations??
No matter what happen even regular oil as long as you change your oil every 3k miles until now im still using regular oil had 2003 accord with 365k miles and it runs like champion
That's the whole point. Change your oil frequently regardless of syn blends, full syn or mineral
Did you replace any parts on that car?
Wonder how it reacts to seals and gaskets ... Sometimes when you switch to synthetic oils, if there is a tendency to leak it will find it.
I watched the restore and protect video on a different channel , the video was done at the warehouse and it was very impressive.. I'll definitely give it a try
With they had a 10w30 viscocity option! Would love to run it once a year in my Small Block Chevy. Maybe I could just run it in the winter.
I recently switched to this oil. I have a 275hp 2 liter GDI that gets worked in spirited driving. I do maintain 3k oci and an occ.
Assuming this removes deposits, is there a danger of plugging oil ducts and passages with the floaters? Seems like a risk in engines with heavy deposition.
There is, there is also a possibility of forming leaks and a possibility of seal issues.
They engineered it to be slow and steady at dissolving deposits according to an engineer on the project.
That was my first thought, but apparently it takes several oil change intervals to make a significant difference, so it works slow, wich is good.
@@shenanigansagain5273 They suggest 3-4 oil changes to slowly remove the deposits and won't clog your filter. During this time, I am using a Purolator Boss during these few oil changes. Then back to my Valvoline Extended Performance High-Mileage. But I am doing shorter oil changes using the Restore and Protect after watching Lake Speeds video.
Shouldn’t be an issue, but if you’re doing serious cleanup simply change @ 3k.miles until cleaning cycle is complete.
I do not know if Valvoline is trying to promote and advertise other new oil advance products, but Penzoil does this job very well in New and old cars with same aditives that Valvoline uses. The difference is that Penzoil uses natural gas and Valvoline doesn't.
@@hansenriquerach-mendoza3515 Pennzoils ultra platinum and platinum products aren’t anything like Valvoline. Ultra for example uses GTL (gas to liquid) base oil. Valvoline does not use GTL. Not saying that’s good or bad, just that they are in fact different. The additive packages are also different. Valvoline is the only over the counter PCMO that has been found to CLEAN the inside of your engine (specifically your ring packs). Pennzoil DOES NOT claim to do this in ANY literature. It claims to KEEP an engine clean, big difference!
@@nordicpride9708 Why are you so certain and believe that Penzoil doesn't have the same benefits? You should go the website updates then take an eye sigh for a thourough cleaning piston reseaches findings in the small letters.. Good luck!
I have a 2002 chevy ZR2 and tried all the top 10 engine oils available ! The pennzoil ultra platinum so far is the best ! And $27 for a 5qrt jug and free shipping is a no brainer ! All my other vehicles get supertech every 3 to 4k and no issues whats so ever ! Im still going to try restore n protect soon !
I've been running Pennz U-P in my Altima since I bought it, I'm sitting at 205K miles and I don't have any leaks or even seepage I still cannot believe it.
I'm not sure what to do! I have been using full synthetic high mileage. My truck has 250, 000 mi on it. The oil I'm using causes the seals to swell. If I start to use this, will I start having oil leaks? Will the seals shrink? Thanks!
@@gregb.7564 i doubt they'll shrink but it's theoretically possible i guess. Worst that can probably happen is it seeps ever so slightly and u can then resume using high mile oil. Or if u want to spend a bit extra, quite a bit now at 20$/bottle, the ATP 205 is the actual chemical that causes the swelling, ie it's a true stop leak.
Coach very interesting video, our three Good Year repair shops were Valvoline users. One of my older customers in the early eighties gave me a Valvoline 18k tie clasp with the logo and 100 year Valvoline anniversary from 1864 to 1964 which I still have. Valvoline has always been a good oil brand. With other oils a person needs to be mind full of the word blend, I believe it can be as low as 18% synthetic, I always recommended full synthetic for the small difference in price compared to the much better benefit especially here in Florida with the high humidity. Thanks to Mike Warholic.
Full synthetic doesn't mean 100% synthetic. It means highly refined minimum 20% synthetic. Amsoil is the only 100% synthetic oil.
I just tried Royal Purple for the first time from Mobile 1 on a 238,000 Mile 2022 Prius Prime I use to do Uber. It made a huge difference in engine noise. I'm going to do amsoil soon but I'm very happy with Royal Purple. I thought I was happy with Mobil 1. Been lifelong customer but the change in the sound of the engine is crazy. I used to get complements from passengers about how quite the engine was when it was running. That stopped around 180,000 miles. 2nd day on Royal Purple and I got a complement from a passenger at 237,000 miles.
@@cc-tb3st Actually, Amsoil is not 100% synthetic. It's a marketing term used. Ford Boss man had an oil analysis done on the Signature series and it wasn't 100% synthetic. It doesn't matter if it says full synthetic or 100% synthetic. It's just a marketing term used. I am not saying Amsoil isn't good but it costs a lot more money than the other major brands.
@@cc-tb3st I believe Amsoil which I use and Mobil 1 are the only PAO base synthetics.
I'm tempted to use it. I still have five quarts of Pennzoil ultra Platinum. they say you're supposed to do it 4 times to get the full effect. my car's got 225k I'd be curious to see what it does for it
will use this on my next oil change (2005 Ford Escape) with over 190k miles - new vehicle prices are forcing me to keep my oh-five a few more years.
Oh man, I JUST changed the oil. Next time, if I still have this car, or for the replacement.
There is no confusion...
Lubricants are supposed to meet certain standards based on applications.
If you are a DIY oil changer, consult your owners manual and buy the proper oil. And don't forget. Your engine is equipped with a miniature oil filter that must be changed also, every time you change the oil.
My preference is every 3K-5K miles.
Learn something new, great video 💪🏽👍🏽
Be good if the youtube channel Project Farm would test this for us.
Iv giving him idea that fool never did one of them. I don't know what he's doing
@@thelegendarywasdgamer9724 awww, you're offended he didn't like your bad ideas. Get in your shop and get to it, you're not entitled to his time.
Just put this in a ‘12 Prius with ~125K. No oil consumption to this point but I figure why not? I honestly was surprised how good the engine sounded after the change with this compared to the oil I always had from the lube place. I’m really hoping this oil will keep the oil control ring from eventually sticking.
I’m also going to change just the oil filter in ~2K miles just in case it frees up too much gunk for the filter to handle.
You can use valvoline protect and restore all the time or only 4 times for cleaning?
Good question
So how many oil filters do you need to have on hand? If it cleans then the filers is catching all this so does it get clogged?
New oil filter every 1000 miles.
I've been using Valvoline full-synthetic, high-mileage oil for the last 15 years. I've had 3 cars in that time and I love it. That said, there's more to cleaning an engine than the type of oil you use. There are risks involved. First, it's not enough to merely REMOVE the dirt and carbon particles. You need to DISSOLVE them. A vehicle's engine has many micro-holes where oil needs to travel through freely in order to get where it needs to be. A particle removed from one area, but not dissolved or reduced in size properly can easily become wedged somewhere else where it could easily do more damage than it would have in its original location.
Secondly, particles that aren't dissolved at least need to be trapped somewhere where they can't do any damage. Enter the oil filter. Using a quality oil filter is absolutely sacrosanct in every oil change. In fact, it's more important than even the oil itself. I use K&N. I believe it's the best you can find at retail (barring online) and it's often included as part of oil change specials.
Third, NEVER use those so-called quick-lube places under ANY circumstances. Most of the owners of those places are complete crooks and their employees are usually just 20 minutes out of a rehab facility! If you can't do the job yourself, at least find a reputable mechanic whom you trust to do the job for you. And always bring your own oil and filter.
The “quality” Synthetic Oils don’t break down, but dirt & fuel dilution reduces actual service life. Stop & Go City driving, rush hour traffic, towing, high & low temperatures, and extended idling are all considered “severe” duty driving conditions which reduce “recommended” drain intervals.
Im going to be trying this new oil. I have watched the Oil Geek video and was very impressed.
I change mine if it starts looking too dirty regardless of milage. 3000 to 4000 miles
What's this, an ad for competition against Valvoline Extend & Restore! You're not going to beat that oil.
Extended protection not extend and restore.
@@gabevillarreal4779 It's actually Restore & Protect.
I have 2017 honda Accord with oil consumption start using Liqui moly engine flush before oil change ,after second use no more oil consumption!I think the problem was with stuck rings because of deposit built up!
NEVER follow your unbord monitoring system...if you wanna keep your car past your warranty...oil is cheap, motors are not.
Onboard?
Very true
My onboard counter hits before the recommended mileage from oil shops.
Synthetic oil may go farther but will the filter keep up?
valvoline max life high mileage advanced full synthetic is an oil that can absolutely fix leaks, reduce and remove sludge, and reduce oil consumption, seen it first hand on many vehicles. catch is to use it consistently and at frequent regular intervals
What about doxus requirements
Can you use valvoline restore protect on gmc sierra since it calls for dexos and the bottle doeant say it but waa told can use on any type vehichle dont wana hurt my motor if cant
When they have 0w16?
Is this available for Harley Davidson motorcycles?
Switching to this oil since the engines in my model car suffers from this problem. What is the NOAK value on this oil???
Very few oil makers will tell you the NOACK of their oils.
Only few do, like Ravenol, Liqui'Moly...
Generally when the NOACK is not mentioned it means it s
What’s too bad is the viscosity offered is too light for many older cars. They should offer it in 10W-40 or 15W-40 or 50 with additional ZDDP.
Additional ZDDP does not pass testing for modern cars.
Very hard or impossible.
The nature of the formula.
5W-30 will work fine. It's better than letting your oil control rings get sludged up.
Can tis oil be used in European cars like VW
Ok.... So where do the deposit's go? Oil pump screen or the filter?
@@rch1264 they get dissolved into the oil. There's no big chunks coming off. Change oil more regularly if you have high amounts of soot and deposits
Will Restore and Protect have any negative impact on the engine seals? E.g. valve cover gasket, rear main seal, etc. I.e. will it make the gasket/seals more inclined to leak or is it safe in that regard?
No because it is restore and "PROTECT" oil
can i use this oil in my chevy which is gm recommending dexon1 spec ??????
Can You? Nothing is stopping ya... That said you didn't specify if your Chevy is still under warranty... If you should need any Warranty Coverage, GM might not appreciate you not using a "Recommended" Dexos rated Oil, etc...
If you read Valvoline's FAQ about Restore and Protect... They are suggesting for Users that want/need a Dexos rated Oil to use Valvoline Advanced (which is Dexos rated). Otherwise, Valvoline is claiming Restore and Protect is its best Oil option. For applications calling for API SP/GF6A and prior classifications.
For my 2014 GMC Terrain (113K miles) it is long out of Warranty... And would have been recommended to use Dexos (Gen 1, 2010-2015). While API SN+ and SP are catching up to Dexos (Gen 2 and Gen 3)... Dexos Gen 3 still has an edge on several fronts. So if you are planning to continue using the Manual's recommended Time/Miles/OLM... You may want to stay with a Dexos rated option.
Alternatively, see what your manual/dealership suggests about using non Dexos Oils. They might suggest using a specific Change Interval?
For example my Terrain's OLM "allows" 6-8K miles before it considers the Oil Life to be nearing 0% and warn to change.... But because of Fuel Dilution (5%) issues (Shorter Trips, Stop and Go, excess idling) its Oil (a 5W30, Dexos Gen3) was already "due" at just (3,000 miles/8 months) 54% Oil Life Remaining...
I'll be trying Restore and Protect in my 2003 Saturn ION (which doesn't have a Dexos requirement, just API SL or better) first, when I have a handle on my Terrain's Fuel Dilution (and have a baseline on any wear numbers I'll feel more comfortable "experimenting" with the "new" engine and not risk unforseen failures because the GM engine "needs" something specified by Dexos but not (so much) by API SP...
I hearing march 2025 new GF7
@@RedArmor24 What is your source? Haven't found much on the subject... Been reading GF-7 was initially proposed for like 2028... API "SQ" and Dexos1 Gen 4 maybe around 2027?
@@lgoamity just look google “api oil gf7 march 2025” you search will find
Will this oil help reduce valve deopsits common in Direct Injection engines?
I was wondering the same thing. I'm currently testing it out on a 2007 mini cooper S, these engines are notorious for clogging up intake valves. I've only been running the oil for about 900 miles, but I feel like I've got a bit more power. It could be that the rings are getting clean and doing a better job sealing.
@@bluefordpickup as the Valvoline guy said on the Ford guy's channel, no it won't clean valve deposits much if at all.
@@18_rabbit valv guy on another channel said it would help gdi a lot since port injectors clean themselves
What about 0w16??
Camry use, any available?
Not available in 0w16, my prius calls for 0w16 but I'm running this in 0w20, engine sounds awesome!
Would this work for a 1987 F-250 with a 460cid that's got 150k+ on it? I've never had any synthetic oil in it and the recommended minimum viscosity oil is 10-30W. I'm leery about putting a 5-30W oil in it. Should I be concerned, or no worries?
What's weird is that I don't see any leaks and no noticeable smoke, yet I'm using a quart every 120 miles when long tripping it at 65mph on the freeway! ( I only use it for a trip north, 875 mi. each way ). The engine has good oil pressure, doesn't make any unusual noises and runs great. All the plugs look clean w/ a light reddish tan ash, except for #8. Very sooty and slightly wet w/oil. Bore inspection camera shows the cylinder wall to be in the same condition as all the others. Hone swirl patterns are still visible and equal on all 8. Seized oil rings? Disintegrated valve stem seals? Leaking intake manifold gasket? It's got me stumped.
Hello! Lauren, Steve Saleen just announced a partnership with a French company that is going to build a hydrogen combustion V6 twin turn engine for his new supercar. Also, I am back and will comment first . Hope you are doing well. Been a long time and I have lots of catching up to do with videos.
I’ll check it out. Thanks for letting me know. Hope you are well.
I wonder what is the HTHS of this oil at the 5W30 variety? They usually publish HTHS for their oils...but NOT for Restore and Protect.
It should be greater than 3.5 for sure.
My assumption is around 4
3.24
@@hanynowsky most US 5W30 and 10W30 HTHS does not even reach 3.5
@@alcyon2sp thanks! might I ask if there is a document or a source for that number?
@@hanynowsky3.5 would make it a Euro spec oil, there are a few 5W30s with 3.5-3.6 HTHS, all Euro. I doubt it is that high. I'm using Valvoline HM EP and it has a pretty high non-Euro HTHS for a 5W30 - 3.3.
Hard to get hold of in UK. Amazon does not ship this to UK for some reason. Need a 5W 30 or 5W 40 Restore and Protect so come on Valvoline, sort it you'll male much more money.
You live in wrong continent
I used Valvoline R and P on my well maintained Ford V10 it dried out my valve seals. Luckily, I caught it early 500 miles. Dumped it and changed to Penzoil platinum ultra with 1 bottle of ATP 205, no more blue smoke at start-up. Be careful when using this stuff. i think Scotty Kilmer is right. Your high milage engine needs to build up a certain amount of build up, you get rid of it, and it will cause problems.
Now I got a question! Was going to start using High Mileage by Valvoline or do I now go with the new brand, Restore aand Protect?
Same Question I have. My local manager for O'Reilly's has convinced me to go Valvoline High Mileage.
Now this pops up 2 days ago and I've seen at least 5 video's on it. They all Love this oil!
I started using high mileage at 60k. Switching to restore and protect for the next 4 oil changes. Then going back to high mileage. I'm at 250k on a 15 Sienna.
I bought 5 qts of Val R&P for my 200k 99 Camry for my next oil change. We'll see!
I have not find if there is an European formula for VW 2.5L 5 Cyl, and when will it be available in Mexico
Amsoil has doing this for decades.
They have a track record of success on this. Everyone else is playing catch up
I have to take this with a bit of salt:
No oil can Restore worn parts. If the cams - mains and seals are worn they have too be replaced.
All oils have detergents that will keep deposits floating so that they can be captured by the filter.
As for cleaning out the oil rings most oils with do that as well if they are not too burnt and clogged.
Ford Boss Me had the oil tested with Blackstone and the detergent package was not much more than any other motor oil.
Conclusion.....No matter the brand regular oil/filter changes will prevent sludge build up and engine wear.
@@markwarnberg9504
The lab oil analysis only uses a known predefined template to list values of multiples properties like common additives package. But it won t tell you what legacy cleaning molecule formula the oil has as it s proprietary.
The lab can t tell you how the Natural gas GTL technology of Shell is blended for example.
R&P claims it can restore pistons to factory operation not to restore them after they are worn.
If the pistons are worn, the driver won t even think about oil anymore but rebuilding the engine as this latter would be running very rough.
R&P has a slow working formula that dissolves hardened carbon layers and chunks from compression rings, oil.scraper rings and piston oil.holes.
In some cases sticky pistons get freed up which restores compression and smooth stroking
And on most cases, oil burning is significantly reduced which in turn improves fuel effeciency and overall performances.
What R&P cannot do is clean the top of the piston (Fuel additives ' role)
I'm just curious ..I wonder what the duration was of an oil change during that actual testing of the piston cleaning etc. I believe you said for oil changes… Wonder what the total amount of mileage was or hours or time etc.?🤔
See the Lake Speed Jr.'s video, they ran for hours in the lab equal to 4k, I think. Lake actually got to visit their R&D lab.
What is the NOAK value of this oil? Will it help keep valves free of carbon in a direct injected engine?
Nothing can keep valves free of carbon in a pure direct-injection engine. Toyota has a hybrid (blended type) fuel-injection engine, which does keep intake valves clean (provided the gasoline has PEA detergent).
5K miles max - oem recommendations are ludicrous now. They raise them to the max to show lower TCO, which is also why many say never change the trans fluid
Plus at 5K you can rotate the tires…
There are alot of videos saying full synthetic is not good for an engine,also every oil change before n after i add an ounce of Marvel Mystery oil also add to fuel it helps clean deposits for sure
nope, now solid 25 years of evidence, if not 40 years really, that synthetic cannot hurt a thing!
NO MORE THAN 5K OIL CHANGE INTERVALS AND WITH THE POPULARITY OF FORCED INDUCTION IM CHANGING MINE TURBO BOXER ENGINE WITH 3K MILE INTERVALS. FUEL DILUTION IS ALSO HIGHER IN THESE DIRECT INJECTED ENGINES..LIKE OTHERS SAID OIL IS CHEAP INSURANCE COMPARED TO EVEN THE CHEAPEST JUNKYARD REPLACEMENTS.
I would never go over 3000 miles between changes. Oil is cheap compared to the price of a engine. A old school way of cleaning deposits is to replace a quart of oil with transmission fluid or use Marvel Mystery Oil. The man is correct about using a mild product to clean deposits off the engine. If you are too aggressive. You can plug up your oil pick up screen and your sump and starve the engines pump thus the entire engine.
I have a 2023 Tundra since 1000 first change l only use Valvolines stems l change every 3000 miles
Waste of oil
@OtisFlint that's true but morons like that
"Always follow your OEM guidelines..." That is true, but what a majority of people don't actually do is READ THE OWNER'S MANUAL when it talks about driving conditions. Most, if not all manufacturers have what they call "normal" and "extended" driving conditions. What most consider "normal" is not even close to what a majority of people are really driving. The longer oil change durations (5k, 8k, 10k, etc.) are only for those that follow the manufacturer's normal driving conditions. Those normal conditions are typically 8k -10k miles/yr, and not in heavy traffic, not in stop and go traffic, not in dusty/dirty areas, not making multiple short trips throughout the day/commute as well as slower acceleration and lower speeds. Therefore, everyone that is not driving in those conditions are in the extended category, and should stick to the manufacturer's recommended interval of 3k miles for every oil change.
Amsoil has been making this type of oil for years,but you pay for the technology.People love cheap and good,this may be a choice for them. Penzoil has also improved.
will try this oil, see what result are.
Synthetics have a natural detergency, so this is not new. Are these "synthetics" API group 3 or are they actually synthetic?
Will this cause hi mileage cars have seal problem
It has more to do with the age of the vehicle and not necessarily mileage.
no, it won't cause seal problems, ie leaks.
I bought some really cheap motor oil called Golden Supreme 1qt. for 3.99, it says anti-foaming additive. This stuff has some kind of cleaning additve that expells dirt from the inner chain links where you can't lubricate, the link sucks in the oil then expells it with the dirt thats inside the link, when you apply it on a motorcycle chain you can see black dirt comming out of each link without scrubbing,,,,,,so nowadays even cheap stuff has gotton better, I wouldn't use it on a car engine or motorcycle engine but for lubricating chains and power generators it seems good. Supermarket oil😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄.
I have been using Amsoil in my 2019 ram Classic HEMI 5.7 and I have 56,000 miles on it. No issues whatsoever and I have it full bolt on with a cam and MDS deleted. It runs super strong I guess it is just preference on oil.
We need third party testing and engine dismantling
You mean like Amsoil has done for years? I’d be willing to bet that Ashland Oil has already had independent testing done on their product but haven’t released any data yet. Most top tier lubricants use third party testing in their product development.
@@prevost8686 Valvoline is the only oil company with their own API certified lab in house, so they are not going to do 3rd party testing. Would make no sense to pay for and maintain your own independently certified lab only to outsource the work.
it doesn't mitigate the carbon buildup. on the backside of intake valves of direct injected engines that don't also utilize port injection.
You may not be correct grasshopper. We are starting to see results on the intake valves of customers after 4 oil changes.
How will this do with turbo ICE
Depends on how many miles you have to start with , it could and couldn't do no good .
Short OCI is more important than oil brand.
Yeah yeah, very nice; but until I see the results from independent tests I'm not a believer. Manufacturer's claims and reality are too frequently not the same thing.
We use synthetic oil exclusively and there is a difference. Switching to Restore and Protect. Check it out
Would this be good for a small engine, lawn mower, garden tractor etc.
@@CarCoachReports That's not in question; synth oil is superior to conventional oil and that has been demonstrated in test after test. What's in question is whether or not Valvoline's 'Restore and Protect' does what they claim it does. And another thing; an oil's detergent characteristics are only part of the story. I also want to see its anti-wear properties and how it holds up under high operating temperatures. I don't believe the marketing. I want to see how it performs on the ASTM test charts. Additionally; racing is a poor way to chose your motor oil. Race engines are typically rebuilt after every race. They don't have to worry about most of the things we need to be concerned about in our daily drivers and racing teams will use oil from whatever sponsor is offering the best perks.
Hi, look at the back of the label and its recommended for ford , gm. I hope Vavoline creates a euro blend for vw golf gti.
Royal purple all day long
Hi,
Happy to meet you online. Am Eric a mechanical engineer in Nairobi Kenya.
I like working on cars so I do a lot of research about cars. I would really love to know more about this lubricant and also if it’s possible for me to be your agent in Kenya.
Otherwise am happy for you guys
“This oil will stop you from burning engine oil, will this oil help the environment?” Seriously? 💀
Tk u for great information
All you got to do is use good oil and change it every 3000 miles and your motor will last a very long time
I use motorcraft in mine and it's still purring at 225k.
Alll right !!!
Perpetual Motion In a Jug of Snake oil..
Ya I do my own and don’t trust oil changers
Boy they will say anything to sell oil, 5k piston ring failure?
Why is Lily Tomlin telling me about engine oil? Man, she looks just like her.
She had me at hybrids and aluminum engines that run hotter.
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