The MOST important service in a 2JZ [Valve Stem Seals]
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
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I
n this episode we will learn on how to perform the Valve Stem Seals replacement in the 2JZ.
The #1 maintenance service needed!
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Thank you for this clear and informative video. I did the GS300/Aristo swap, and I need to do this service also. I plan on using the rope method as well.
Great to hear John! Take your time and keep us posted 🔥
Tried this for first time today. Stress free not having to worry about air pressure loss with the other tool.
Happy to hear mate!!!! Proud of you!!!! Keep grinding 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks. Been many years for me at this point and couple years ago added railroad equipment to the mix. Good times.
Great video man....very useful and well explained.
Thank you brother! Just sharing what I learnt
Im new to your channel, im enjoying the series so far as well as your positive energy. However i did cringe pretty hard when you bent the head when trying to use the adjustable wrench on the cam 🙀😂😭. looking forward to the rest of the series as i would love to do this same swap. Much love to you and your family and the best of luck to your channel!
thanks for the support mate, and great to have you onboard! Lots of learnings as you can see from TONS of mistakes :) And yeah the CAM + Wrench situation was interesting... LOL
Also for anyone interested I have a brand new 2jzgte (the turbo ) water pump I’m selling that I got from driftmotion I’ll let go for a discount. Got it for 197 I’ll let it go for 150
I need to do this but I'm kind of dreading it; thanks for the info.
Agree is kinda pain in the neck… maybe good excuse to upgrade some stuff???? 😂
@@MinkMood right, I thought about cams and springs but I don’t know if it would be worthwhile, I only run 600whp on my IS.
Agree, I’m sticking with the OEM cams and intake at the moment. I heard that cams with no intake are not that worthy
also do you pull cams after marking them and them place them back in exaclty in the same position? anyone have the exact part numbers for the cam seals and tensioners?
So did you move to the next cylinder with the rope every four valve seals?
Yes
so do you center the crank and cams....then stuff the rope turn clockwise until tight....then swap the guide seal ...then back off the crank counter clockwise back to center and then pull rope and start on the next set?
Yup, exactly 👍
So if you have everything at center when you take it out ...once you're done can you put it back exactly as it was and it's technically timed ? Or do you have to put the cams back in as per print and then retime ?
@mikearceneauxbaker you start at TDC, with piston 1 at lowest position.
You remove the cams as per Toyota manual and start this process.
Once you move to piston 2 I used a straw to find the lowest point and then rope in.
Repeat until finish the 6 pistons
Then go back to TDC at the crankshaft. To be safe move 10-15 degrees backwards and install the cams as per manual or check the other video we made.
Then you need to re time which you can also see with the manual or another video where we put the engine back together
@@MinkMood perfect. Watching it now ! I emailed you also if you are able to send those manuals /part numbers and all ! Appreciate you!
So do you do this to each individual cylinder? Bring it to top dead center / out rope / tighten/ change seals on the 2 intake and exhaust valves and then pull rope out then do the other 5 the exact same way?
Exactly, simple and repetitive process
@@MinkMood ok and another thing, should I bring everything to top timing marks before starting ? Then take cams out and leave crank at the zero marker ? And as for retiming I would turn crank clockwise to zero then install cams and follow the process until they are also at top timing markers (which crank would stay at zero the whole time ?) so once cams are also at top timing markers I should be a set timing ?
@@mikearceneauxbakerits a good idea always when dissasembly to have everything at TDC. Having said that, the 2JZ GTE VVTi are non interference engines. So it doesnt really matter. If you are working on another type of 2J, then yes be careful not to land a valve on a piston.
@@MinkMood ok so ( and im about to watch your video one more time ) if i go through all the valves and then once im finished i turn crank clockwise around to TDC then i install cams and walk though the process as per process until those are also TDC then i can put my belt on and call it good correct?
@mikearceneauxbaker yes
Mine just went , I think 💭 guess it’s time to change mine.
Just take your time and you’ll do it great!!! BTW in the channel you’ll find some videos with clarity on how to safely remove and install both cams
Hey how do you know it’s not the piston rings? Pretty sure mine are gone as well 😢
@Earth_By_Board compression test will tell that. These seals go bad and 1st start in the morning will tell
What else would / should be serviced while all that’s apart? I’m notorious for not ordering everything I’d need for a whole job haha
Hahah same here mate! Following with engine block paint, new oil pump, new water pump, new seals all over and starting to put things back in place 👍
Do the regular 100.000km service while youre at it.
@@tunex_ what’s included there?
PARTS
Timing Belt x1 (13568-49035)
Harmonic Balancer/Crank Pulley x1 (16371-46020)
Fuel Filter x1 (23300-49195)
Air Filter x1 (17801-46060)
Oil Filter x1 (90915-20001)
Serpentine Drive Belt x1 (90616-02310)
Water Pump x1 (16100-49836)
Camshaft Seal x2 (90311-40020)
Front Crankshaft Seal x1 (90311-46001)
Rear Main Seal x1 (90311-90006)
Ignition Coil x1 (90919-02197)
HT Lead Set x1 (90919-21521)
Thermostat x1 (90916-03093)
Thermostat Gasket x1 (???)
Shift Control Yoke (6 Speed) x1
Iridium Spark Plugs x6 (???)
PCV Valve x1 (12204-46030)
PCV Valve Grommet x1 (90480-18001)
Distributor Cap x1 (19101-70020)
Distributor Rotor x1 (19102-46011)
Distributor Shaft O'ring x1 (90099-14109)
Tensioner Bearing x1 (???)
Hydraulic Tensioner x1 (???)
Sump Plug Washer x1 (???)
Fluids
Engine Oil
Power Steering Oil
Gear Oil
Diff Oil
Brake Fluid
These are the parts for 2jz ge but you get the Idea
@@tunex_ thanks mate! I’ll be doing them and doing some RUclips videos
I got some valve seals from gsc which all look the same size………should that be fine or are the intake and exhaust definitely different sizes?
The oem ones have different size. The GSC are all same size and it’s ok 👍
@@MinkMood I actually finished the project shortly after I sent that question and used your entire video to do so ! I do have rough idle upon starting and once it warms up super smooth so I changed idle valve and I’m going to change idle sensor and complete exhaust system because at almost 200k now it’s about time for new cat and mufflers as they literally filters if you really think about it. I may attempt to just soak clean them but over all I think those aspects will totally fix my idle issue especially being it smooths out after it gets to temp so likely it’s just a clogged Cat
@mikearceneauxbaker check the temp sensor. That could cause rough idle
@@MinkMood temp sensor on bottom of radiator?
@@mikearceneauxbaker check the one that connects to the ECU. In the GTE is on the Coolant Upper Neck. Not sure in your car where it is, but google location and then measure resistance ohm. See if its in the normal values and also if changes when Cold and when at Operating temp