!!!WARNING!!! After watching your video I decided to use the 'Rope' as opposed to 'Air'. On BMW S63 engine I stuffed cylinder 1 with nylon rope, turn crank until it stopped, removed valve springs. I turned the crank counter-clockwise slightly to release top of cylinder from compressing rope. When attempting to remove rope it would not come out. After using my bore scope to view inside the cylinder, it had somehow developed a knot. At this moment the nylon rope is stuck in the cylinder and will not come out, no matter how much pulling force is applied. I picked at it for 4 hours to try to undo know, impossible. I am now in the process of removing the head to get the rope out, which includes removing turbos, all associated coolant and oil lines, then the exhaust manifold. What a mess!!! DO NOT RISK IT!!!
You could also try to burn it a little to get something to grab on but yes this method seems dangerous if you can’t get it out, a small pancake compressor and a compression tester hose should be enough to pressurize a cylinder and do this job and not mess with the rope
La primera vez que cambie los sellos de válvula no use nada para detener los vástagos, (por ignorancia) pero si sabía que se podían caer, pero por suerte no se cayeron
Well done and explained! Only thing I’d recommend is…mentioning to put something (rag) over in the spark hole(s) in case one drops that nut or retainer slips. Last thing you want is to drop parts down there.
Thanks mate that is brilliant. I had this argument with my brother-in-law and he said the compressor was the only way. I knew there was another way and now you have proven it. Well explained.
Thanks for this! Only need to replace one valve stem seal that's come loose on my 205 Pug, wouldn't want to go through the trouble of removing the whole head etc.
When trying to tune the ECU in Audi 2.0TFSI CYMC 2019 I get the error "Pressure too high in cylinder 3" and the engine shuts down after that "Misfiring" - this protects the cylinder and turns it off. Do you have any idea what it could be? I can send photos from the endoscope of this cylinder
Since the camshaft is not connected to the crankshaft, it is rotated in a way that the valves are opened only a little, not enough to contact the pistons. Pistons also have valve reliefs.
When doing my job, I need to zip tie the timing chain to the cam gears to keep timing (as well as ensure the chain stays taught on bottom gear) - so in that case, I cannot turn engine - is the rope method still usable??
If you are working on a BMW N40/N42/N45/N46/N43 you have to use the timing tools to set the timing, so there is no point in ziptieing the VANOS units.. I can not say for other engines but in principle you have to be able to rotate the crankshaft to compress the rope against the valves.
Same here mate, I used the 8mm nylon rope like he said and now it's stuck in the cylinder. I didn't see this comment. @BimmerZen PLEASE update this and put a note to say you need to use thick rope. Thank you
@@mattymuso2108 Been there done that. Like the other guy said maybe research what chemicals dislove nylon. I wouldn't burn it as nylon will clump into a weird plastic. Hopefully you won't have to take the head off...Best of luck.
@@markanthonydelacruz1198 not sure what you mean... when the rope is removed you can rotate the crankshaft. Make sure that the car is in neutral gear and that you keep the chain tight against the bottom sprocket to prevent breaking the chain rail.
Danger to the engine primarily comes from breaking of the plastic slide rail due to chain bundling at the bottom. If you keep the chain tight against the main sprocket while rotating the engine, then you won't damage anything.
How much compressed air do you have to use, as opposed to using the rope? And what are the dangers of using too much air in the cylinder head? Especially if its DIY job.
Considering whether to use the rope method or compressor method. Rope feels safer since nothing can go wrong except... like several commentors wrote the rope got stuck in the cylinder. I will think that using the thickest nylon rope possible and burn the ends should be idiot proof?
It's safer to use compressed air (piston in TDC). I can't say if bigger rope is better... Maybe smaller OD rope (6mm) would be better since you can still pull a small knot through the sparkplug hole.
@@BimmerZen Thank you for answering. I thought about it and will do the compressed air at a later stage. For now I just want my engine to stop rattling. I noticed that I could move the inlet cam 2-3 mm while my timing tools are inserted and the exhaust cam around 1 mm. I forced the tool at an earlier stage and definitely bent it slightly. I ordered a new timing tool and hope it will stop the rattling. I'm already on my third set of VANOS gears and they are all rattling so I'm starting to think it's not the gear, lol.
BEWARE!! I tried this on an '85 Pajero and now the rope is stuck inside the cylinder. I can rotate the engine 180 deg in either direction and then it seizes at each point. Looks like the head's going to come off...
Hey. May i ask a question of help? :s My chain tensioner broke of in engine. Did the whole repair with my own hands by your 2 part tutorial (perfect instruction, bow down), assembled all back together with perfect timing, started up nicely after few tries. Rode the car for 2 days. In the 3 day it died. tryed to start. and beneath the engine bay withing seconds accumulated HUGE oil puddle. even saw two ~1mm running (not dripping) oil streams. A lot of oil seemed to be from oil filter housing. dissambled it. found that in oil cooler housing, intake hole end was completely clogged with leftover tensioner plastic pieces.... cleaned it (filter was clean). Cleaned everything and Installed new 2 gaskets with filter just to be sure. Tried to start the engine again... and... engine streamed out oil in streams again..... even through the oil filter housing again! (nothing unexpected - the weakest Nm place for oil system)... But i understand that the engine clogged with debris somewhere else also. but where? oil pick up filter for sure needs to be checked. but maybe you would suggest any other idea also? Thank you very much for your time spent on random strangers cry of despair. keep on good tutorials. Subscriber
Sorry to hear that:( I will assume that the oil cooler is now cleaned up and not blocked... You will have to remove the oil pan and clean the oil pickup screen. You will also want to remove and inspect the oil pressure regulator valve. It could be damaged or clogged with plastic debris and that could cause the oil pressure being to high. Another - but worse - cause could be that some of the debris got past the filter housing and in to the oil lines inside the engine block and cylinder head... the your only reasonable option is to pull the engine, disassemble it and clean it...😬
@BimmerZen Hey. Back with an update. So yeah, removed oil pan, checked oil pickup screen - clean. Then opened oil pressure regulator valve - full of plastic pieces. Inserted pressurised air into the oil filter housing 2 side holes (not the middle one) and removed the debris. Putted all back together. Started the engine with ease. 10min worked perfectly, but i didnt revved it. As soon as i revved it to 5k+ rpm - oil spitted freely from oil filter housing cooler again... So either engine pushed new debris into oil pressure valve again from the corners of the oil pump's housing (i hope) either oil lines in block from the intake side...? But then it would showed up quickly in idle - it would be problem for engine to work even in low rpm if there were clogged before this inspection, as i only inspected bottom. :// Another question came up - may the oil seperator needs to be checked? which is under the intake manifold. As It has springs and bedding for debry tai lay down. hope this experience finds usefull to anyone reading.
nice video. btw you did turn the crank counterclockwise when removing the rope. are your spring tension tools compatible for other marques or just for BMW?
Yes, I did rotate the crank counter clockwise, but I made sure that the chain is tight against the lower sprocket. This 3d printed tool will only fit the BMW N42/N46 engine and I also have designs for N40/N45 and N43. It will not work on other engines.
Not sure what you mean with "special valve"... Perhaps you mean the 3D printed valve spring compressor tool? Links are in the description: bimmerzen.com/store
There should be no reason to drop the piston all the way to the bottom, that just means more rope to use and more risk of it getting stuck just use something to hold the pressure once you compress the rope if you're worried the piston might drop and take the valve with it.
Pozdrav sem gledal ze vec tvojih videov in vidim da se spoznas na te n42 ter n46 motorje zato imam vprasanje. Sam sem kupil tudi bmw e46 318i z n42 pa imam tezavo da ko pospesujem nad 2 tisoc obratov se cujejo neki cudni zvoki in sem skoro sto procenten da jih proizvaja valvetronic nisem pa siguren mi lahko pomagas? Hvala v naprej sem se subscribal😊
Hello mate hope you can help I got pressure build (somewhere) and it's releasing the pressure like a blow off valve. Sounds sick but it's not cool coming from a N/A engine lol.. any tips or where to check. I've looked at the intake side of the engine as where the sound is coming from. all Is good tho but do you have any possible suggestions. Thanks in advance keep up the videos man love watching them haha very informative
But it is worth every cent, believe me. I started to replace the seals with universal tool for about 30-40 Euros, but it was so difficult to handle it alone, pressing against the spring with one hand and trying to place the keeper with the other hand... It takes much time... I finished only the first cylinder, it driven me crazy. Then I bought this tool and finished the rest much much faster and relaxed. I don't want to know how it went, if I did the last valves of 4th cylinder with universal tool...
Amigo não é caro , eu passei uma semana fazendo as duas ferramentas de ferro para comprimir as molas , só não comprei as do bimmer zen , devido à distância , creio que o frete ficaria caro
!!!WARNING!!! After watching your video I decided to use the 'Rope' as opposed to 'Air'. On BMW S63 engine I stuffed cylinder 1 with nylon rope, turn crank until it stopped, removed valve springs. I turned the crank counter-clockwise slightly to release top of cylinder from compressing rope. When attempting to remove rope it would not come out. After using my bore scope to view inside the cylinder, it had somehow developed a knot. At this moment the nylon rope is stuck in the cylinder and will not come out, no matter how much pulling force is applied. I picked at it for 4 hours to try to undo know, impossible. I am now in the process of removing the head to get the rope out, which includes removing turbos, all associated coolant and oil lines, then the exhaust manifold. What a mess!!! DO NOT RISK IT!!!
You could also try to burn it a little to get something to grab on but yes this method seems dangerous if you can’t get it out, a small pancake compressor and a compression tester hose should be enough to pressurize a cylinder and do this job and not mess with the rope
La primera vez que cambie los sellos de válvula no use nada para detener los vástagos, (por ignorancia) pero si sabía que se podían caer, pero por suerte no se cayeron
Why would you crank??? Dude never said crank! That's a user error!!
@@BrokeAsHellChallenge
Yes he does say crank dude.. First cylinder at bottom -> fit rope -> crank to compress.
Seems like a personal problem ive done this tons of times without a single issue
Well done and explained! Only thing I’d recommend is…mentioning to put something (rag) over in the spark hole(s) in case one drops that nut or retainer slips. Last thing you want is to drop parts down there.
Am făcut aceasta lucrare an fata blocului datorita videoclipului tău și mi-a ieșit perfect MULTUMESC!
Salutare, cum ai reusit sa invarti arborele?
Banuiesc ca nu ai avut motorul pus pe banc ca si tipul de aici...
Thanks mate that is brilliant.
I had this argument with my brother-in-law and he said the compressor was the only way. I knew there was another way and now you have proven it. Well explained.
love this rope method and you made it look easy lol, has anyone done this for for V6 engines?
Wow. This neighbor made his own spring compressor. Petroleum priest.knows his business fosho. Quite impressive. Video so instructive.thank you sir
Brilliant, also love the 3d printed tool… excellent work!
Thanks for this! Only need to replace one valve stem seal that's come loose on my 205 Pug, wouldn't want to go through the trouble of removing the whole head etc.
Great detail as always. Bought your kit. Now I'm looking forward to doing this job👍
Brilliant! Thanks for posting.
thanks for sharing this method. I will try this.
Comprei suas ferramentas para trocar os retentores de válvula, parabéns, belo trabalho , valeu cada centavo
Do you make a spring compressor tool for the N14 Mini engines?
Yes! Thank you 👍. I look forward to placing order for tool. 3D print 👣 support
You are a genius, making the tool ! Is there one available for the BMW/MINI with the N14 /N18 enigine?
I have to change my valve stem seals on my 2012 Mini Cooper S countryman. Will the rope method work?
how to determine the exhaust valve vs intake valves? Thanks
@@raulakh123 exhaust valves have smaller surface area (smaller OD)
I am interested in the tooling you made for the valve. How can one order one and how much does it cost?
When trying to tune the ECU in Audi 2.0TFSI CYMC 2019 I get the error "Pressure too high in cylinder 3" and the engine shuts down after that "Misfiring" - this protects the cylinder and turns it off.
Do you have any idea what it could be? I can send photos from the endoscope of this cylinder
Can you bend accidentaly exhaust valves as you rotate crankshaft? As I can see camshaft still there ...as some of exhaust vale can be opend ?
Since the camshaft is not connected to the crankshaft, it is rotated in a way that the valves are opened only a little, not enough to contact the pistons. Pistons also have valve reliefs.
Also the50skid uses this method with his M54, Great job! ✌️
I'm really liking the rope method! I'm assuming, once again, the 70cm thing is specific to that motor.
It's just the length that worked well for me for the diameter of the rope... It should work the same for any 500 ml per cylinder engine.
When doing my job, I need to zip tie the timing chain to the cam gears to keep timing (as well as ensure the chain stays taught on bottom gear) - so in that case, I cannot turn engine - is the rope method still usable??
If you are working on a BMW N40/N42/N45/N46/N43 you have to use the timing tools to set the timing, so there is no point in ziptieing the VANOS units.. I can not say for other engines but in principle you have to be able to rotate the crankshaft to compress the rope against the valves.
USE THICK ROPE! I once got the rope stuck in a knot inside the cylinder and had to take the head off to cut the knot off...
I guess thicker rope would really be better for that.
You can also soften most ropes with some chemicals, put oil in or burn them to ashes to get them back out..
@@rkan2 Where were you 2 years ago? That would have helped. Instead I scraped the n46 and swapped to m54. Easier then working on the 4 cylinder lol
Same here mate, I used the 8mm nylon rope like he said and now it's stuck in the cylinder. I didn't see this comment. @BimmerZen PLEASE update this and put a note to say you need to use thick rope. Thank you
@@mattymuso2108 Been there done that. Like the other guy said maybe research what chemicals dislove nylon. I wouldn't burn it as nylon will clump into a weird plastic. Hopefully you won't have to take the head off...Best of luck.
That tool seems more convenient to use compared to universal one. Do you ship to Australia? I like your videos. Very informative.
sure.
thanks. ordering now.
Hi, using the rope method, can the pulley be rotated with the engine in the car?
@@markanthonydelacruz1198 not sure what you mean... when the rope is removed you can rotate the crankshaft. Make sure that the car is in neutral gear and that you keep the chain tight against the bottom sprocket to prevent breaking the chain rail.
How much can you turn an engine counterclockwise (to release rope) without creating damage to engine?
Danger to the engine primarily comes from breaking of the plastic slide rail due to chain bundling at the bottom. If you keep the chain tight against the main sprocket while rotating the engine, then you won't damage anything.
@@BimmerZen Thank you
What is the name of the component that connects with two bolts just outside the cylinder head next to the exhaust cam
Vacuum pump for the break booster
Leakdown tester works well
What about the camshaft rings near to the vanos, should they be replaced? Thanks
I never replaced one. They usualy don't wear out unless something goes horribly wrong (metal or bearing material in the oil).
I need that special tool how can I get them
Hi how do you rotate the engine with the other cam in place
There was no timing chain so cam was not moving.
How much compressed air do you have to use, as opposed to using the rope? And what are the dangers of using too much air in the cylinder head? Especially if its DIY job.
1 Bar should be enough. Dangers of too much pressure is that the crankshaft must be secured against accidental rotation under pressure.
Considering whether to use the rope method or compressor method. Rope feels safer since nothing can go wrong except... like several commentors wrote the rope got stuck in the cylinder. I will think that using the thickest nylon rope possible and burn the ends should be idiot proof?
It's safer to use compressed air (piston in TDC). I can't say if bigger rope is better... Maybe smaller OD rope (6mm) would be better since you can still pull a small knot through the sparkplug hole.
@@BimmerZen
Thank you for answering.
I thought about it and will do the compressed air at a later stage.
For now I just want my engine to stop rattling.
I noticed that I could move the inlet cam 2-3 mm while my timing tools are inserted and the exhaust cam around 1 mm. I forced the tool at an earlier stage and definitely bent it slightly.
I ordered a new timing tool and hope it will stop the rattling. I'm already on my third set of VANOS gears and they are all rattling so I'm starting to think it's not the gear, lol.
good job mate , ty for share your this video , ty ty ty so much
Hi video's have been very helpful thanks, do you make a valve seal remoral tool for the N43 engine ?
Yes I do: bimmerzen.com/store
Hi, will your tool work on a 2012 4 cyl 2.4L eco tech eng? How much are you asking?
Bummer è Possivel por o câmbio manual da 120i 2007 na bmw 130i 2008 ?
congratulations!, excelent video, thanks!
I am doing the vavle stems on mini n18. DO you make a similar tool for that car?
I didn't work on a N18 yet, so unfortunately no:(
@@BimmerZen I THINK IT WILL WORK ON MINI , the head lock same
Can you send me the link for purchasing that spring compressing tool?
Sure, just check the description.
hello! how many cm must go inside?
Excellent work
The tool you printed only works for that engine, correct? Same with the keeper tool, right?
The tool in the video works for N42 and N46 only. I also have a N40/N45 version and I am currently developing a version for the N43.
BEWARE!! I tried this on an '85 Pajero and now the rope is stuck inside the cylinder. I can rotate the engine 180 deg in either direction and then it seizes at each point. Looks like the head's going to come off...
Would this tool happen to fit a mini n18 engine?
Will not fit, im planning to develop tools for more bmw engine families...
man You are god, i love Your metods :D
Great video !!!
What color should be the seals for the exhaust and what color for intake anyone knows?
in most cases they should be the same color but some brands, like supertech, have blue for exhaust and brown for intake
Hey. May i ask a question of help? :s My chain tensioner broke of in engine. Did the whole repair with my own hands by your 2 part tutorial (perfect instruction, bow down), assembled all back together with perfect timing, started up nicely after few tries. Rode the car for 2 days. In the 3 day it died. tryed to start. and beneath the engine bay withing seconds accumulated HUGE oil puddle. even saw two ~1mm running (not dripping) oil streams. A lot of oil seemed to be from oil filter housing. dissambled it. found that in oil cooler housing, intake hole end was completely clogged with leftover tensioner plastic pieces.... cleaned it (filter was clean). Cleaned everything and Installed new 2 gaskets with filter just to be sure. Tried to start the engine again... and... engine streamed out oil in streams again..... even through the oil filter housing again! (nothing unexpected - the weakest Nm place for oil system)... But i understand that the engine clogged with debris somewhere else also. but where? oil pick up filter for sure needs to be checked. but maybe you would suggest any other idea also? Thank you very much for your time spent on random strangers cry of despair.
keep on good tutorials. Subscriber
Sorry to hear that:( I will assume that the oil cooler is now cleaned up and not blocked... You will have to remove the oil pan and clean the oil pickup screen. You will also want to remove and inspect the oil pressure regulator valve. It could be damaged or clogged with plastic debris and that could cause the oil pressure being to high. Another - but worse - cause could be that some of the debris got past the filter housing and in to the oil lines inside the engine block and cylinder head... the your only reasonable option is to pull the engine, disassemble it and clean it...😬
@@BimmerZen thankyou for your advice :) it realy helps with not giving up. inform you here when will do the work!
@BimmerZen Hey. Back with an update. So yeah, removed oil pan, checked oil pickup screen - clean. Then opened oil pressure regulator valve - full of plastic pieces. Inserted pressurised air into the oil filter housing 2 side holes (not the middle one) and removed the debris. Putted all back together. Started the engine with ease. 10min worked perfectly, but i didnt revved it. As soon as i revved it to 5k+ rpm - oil spitted freely from oil filter housing cooler again... So either engine pushed new debris into oil pressure valve again from the corners of the oil pump's housing (i hope) either oil lines in block from the intake side...? But then it would showed up quickly in idle - it would be problem for engine to work even in low rpm if there were clogged before this inspection, as i only inspected bottom. ://
Another question came up - may the oil seperator needs to be checked? which is under the intake manifold. As It has springs and bedding for debry tai lay down.
hope this experience finds usefull to anyone reading.
You used 2 gaskets at the same time? That's not a good idea.
@@underourrock No... If you havent seen, Oil Filter Housing has 2 gaskets. Horizontal ant Vertical
Does your tools work on a mini n18 engin?
No, but I'll make one if I get my hands on a Mini N18 engine:)
Can I buy the keeper tool
Contact me via my channel email.
Thanks for your response. I got the info i requested from comments posted by others
nice video. btw you did turn the crank counterclockwise when removing the rope.
are your spring tension tools compatible for other marques or just for BMW?
Yes, I did rotate the crank counter clockwise, but I made sure that the chain is tight against the lower sprocket. This 3d printed tool will only fit the BMW N42/N46 engine and I also have designs for N40/N45 and N43. It will not work on other engines.
Hello, where can I find and buy a special valve? Thank you
Not sure what you mean with "special valve"... Perhaps you mean the 3D printed valve spring compressor tool? Links are in the description: bimmerzen.com/store
Cool vid and tools you made
What is the size, type and length of rope?
Nylon, 8mm, aprox 1m
Interested in tool
Available here: bimmerzen.com/store
There should be no reason to drop the piston all the way to the bottom, that just means more rope to use and more risk of it getting stuck just use something to hold the pressure once you compress the rope if you're worried the piston might drop and take the valve with it.
Best... Simple..
Will this tool work with any Vehicle American made Ford or Chevrolet?
No. Only for engines specified on my website.
Pozdrav sem gledal ze vec tvojih videov in vidim da se spoznas na te n42 ter n46 motorje zato imam vprasanje. Sam sem kupil tudi bmw e46 318i z n42 pa imam tezavo da ko pospesujem nad 2 tisoc obratov se cujejo neki cudni zvoki in sem skoro sto procenten da jih proizvaja valvetronic nisem pa siguren mi lahko pomagas? Hvala v naprej sem se subscribal😊
Hej, kontaktiraj me na bimmerzenchannel@gmail.com, bova pogledala:)
@@BimmerZen okej bom hvala ti
This is what I wanted, great, thank you, I am interested in n46 and n13.
I only have this tool for N42/N46 engine.
Hello mate hope you can help
I got pressure build (somewhere) and it's releasing the pressure like a blow off valve. Sounds sick but it's not cool coming from a N/A engine lol.. any tips or where to check. I've looked at the intake side of the engine as where the sound is coming from. all Is good tho but do you have any possible suggestions.
Thanks in advance keep up the videos man love watching them haha very informative
I would suspect CVV separator/hoses. Do a vacuum leak test if you can.
Make a Tool for a 1zzfe and ok I'll buy the tool
Hello
Do I need a timing tool for this? In the first video there was a timing tool requirement in the description.
Yes, to get to this point and to retime the engine after this procedure, you will need the timing tools.
genius 👌
I need this tool but 21 euro is expensiv
But it is worth every cent, believe me. I started to replace the seals with universal tool for about 30-40 Euros, but it was so difficult to handle it alone, pressing against the spring with one hand and trying to place the keeper with the other hand... It takes much time... I finished only the first cylinder, it driven me crazy.
Then I bought this tool and finished the rest much much faster and relaxed. I don't want to know how it went, if I did the last valves of 4th cylinder with universal tool...
Amigo não é caro , eu passei uma semana fazendo as duas ferramentas de ferro para comprimir as molas , só não comprei as do bimmer zen , devido à distância , creio que o frete ficaria caro
After from what everyone is saying about the rope getting knotted I am NOT going to use rope