HOW TO: 1/2JZ VALVE STEAM REPLACEMENT *The Easiest Way*
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
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One issue you might pop into, I did with my 2j in my mk3, is heat. The jz being a long engine it's back 2 pistons take a hammering heat wise. And being so close to the fire wall doesnt help. A trick the a70 guys use is raising the rear of the hood up slightly so it allow a vacuum gap for the heat.
The other and better option in my opinion is to install some vents at the rear of the hood.
With your radiator a must is having a an undertray. Without it it creates a vaccum and doesn't allow the cool air to hit the rad. It sucks it out the bottom.
You will need some decent thermofans too to draw enough air in. Again a vent specifically for the rad is useful. It's all about getting that cool air in and heat out. They love to heat soak.
Just a few tips mate. Don't want you to have the same issues I did. I'm sure you know most of this anyway lol
Jacob McCarty couldn’t be any truer. 2jz and heat is like love and marriage. You can’t have one without the other..
They actually did an experiment on spacing the back of your hood and I believe the conclusion was it increased heat slightly? I can't remember but it was a video on RUclips I think! May differ per car, but the one they tested didn't help.
Trey Everett you need a vent or gapped hood, which the z32 has. It has a small gap in the front bar for air to get in. By popping the rear of the hood, it should in theory create a vacuum. It may be all bollocks but in the a70 community it seems to be the go to if you don't wanna cut up your hood. I'm happy to be wrong though. I'll stop recommending it if so lol.
iWrecktem yeah they like to get hot. Their operating temp is way higher then most engines. So when you start adding in boost they tend to heat soak quick. Nothing it can't handle but it does effect performance. It's my next move venting my hood. I'm running 580hp and an old school turbo t04z so heat has been an issue. I am designing an undertray atm which I suspect will make a world of difference as the gap from the nose clip to the rad is huge.
Mmm, I love 2jz talk.. running just about 550whp in my NA-T is300 a couple years ago and now we’re getting it back. I’m just about finished, having troubles with my Haltech standalone atm.. I agree, I also would like a vented hood.
@10:45, he grab your thing by the shaft and need a rag, WHAT DID HE JUST GRAB ??? !! 🤣
Bruh this shit cracked me tf up and everybody asleep😂
Great video on changing seals Kalvin. My 2J turned into a smoke machine so i figured it was time for a rebuild. This was when i discovered the source of the internal oil leak was coming from the high pressure oil feed to the head, through the head gasket layers and into the rear cylinder (i also had a very small amount of air bubbles in the rad while under boost but zero coolant loss). Changing the head bolts to ARP studs would of prevented my oil burning and coolant issue and rebuild. sorry to sound like a broken record in regards to head studs i wont post about them again lol, im just trying to help you avoid a known fault with the 2Js head bolts losing tension. if it burns oil and / or has headgasket issues this would be the first place i would look. Keep it up Kal, this lady is going to be a monster
Mate Ive been mechanic for like 25 years ( not a joke) and I just wonna say vids are good this one in particular you could not have explained it in a better way 😊😊👍🏻
Remember kids arp headstuds...stronger and cheaper than oem
Kal, you the bomb dude. I switched to a LS1, but if I were still doing my 2j this would be invaluable. Great content my man! Keep it up.
I remember finding you off of ricer Miata the first time you guys ever met very slept on youtuber
Hmm, might wanna have an upgraded Fluid Damper or ATI crank pulley on hand. Stock pulleys will grenade, eventually. They’re a 2 piece, with a rubber lining between them that cracks and breaks away after awhile.
Will come in time 😎 been rippin my stock rb one for 4 years and no issues yet. I have faith 😂
Lmao, thata boy. I only say this because mine blew up on me and scared the pooh outta me. It’s sick watching you do all this 2jz stuff coming from just doing all this same stuff over this last summer. Eff doing valve seals without that tool. Getting those valve keepers back in place with a pliers is not cool. 😂
I wanna add to this. I recommend doing it as soon as possible. I owned a 1JZ in a 1994 JZX90 and after three months of ownership, minimal hooning, it sheared in half. Motor only had 115,000 KM’s on it. Easy way to leave yourself stranded somewhere. I know budget can make it difficult. If you can swing it, I would get a new one!
Truth! and your main bearings will enjoy the extra vibration dampening! 😁
Kalvins Garage it's for sure a good upgrade. I run a titan motorsport one. Once you start pushing it the vibration is noticeable. And it will go boom boom quick. Rocker cover gasket are another point that is a pain in the ass. You have to get it perfect or it will leak. Just did mine and I thought I had it perfect few weeks later little leak. Pisses me off so much lol.
Man... I love this series. You're gettin' some good "yeets" into this episode Haha. I wish I had your help on my builds, studying up for a '93 Bronco 4x4, 351W nat. aspirated, performance cam + true dual exhaust, etc. build AND a '91 Chevy S10, turbo LQ9 (LS3) swap, RWD, fuel cell, drift truck build. Also all alone, with next to no experience lol wish me luck?! All body work + wide body mods too... keep the awesome content coming bud, you're going places fast mate.
Nice. I wasn’t sure which direction your going to go. All and all good to go.
Good shit! And nice fade-in on the outro tunes.
Thanks for your your video was thinking to do my 2005 tundra.
A good idea to pull the engine to do this job? Also better to upgrade the valve springs and cams while we do this job?
For clarification the 1jz seals are the same as the 2j ones.
Great video as usual! How to's and DIY's always on top
are both cam seals the same part number? and do the cams just sit right back into place how you took them out?
Are u supposed to be able to fit a pic under the valve stem seal ?? First time doing is so idk if its right
Working so hard this is what u do when the motor out not in
Hey Kev i sure hope you GSC cam that bad boy
Always the good stuff on this channel :)
Great info on the Kia. Thanks.
We're gonna get this thing to sema next year once it's all said and done, wide body and quik af
awesome video as always Kalvin!
That Aussie accents on point ahahah
Change that tension pulley, they will brake after 500+hp
At 2:44 what was the extension for when you placed it standing on top of the head?
very clean very nice job...
More videos like these please!
Will the same seals work for the 2jzge engine?
Wooooweee u know yo shit bro nice job
Love you papa kalvin💖💖💖
Keep grinding man
Great video man
Mine were so bad that it was spitting oil through the gasket between the head and headers.then again the far was sitting for more than a year from the previous owner.
Sweet.. now all i need is a jz lol. one day
I've been trying to figure out who you sound like, you wouldn't happen to secretly run a tech Channel called techrax would you?
I could just imagine that on your first test drive you floor it and 2jz.exe explodes
Oh damn
Better make 1000
👌👌👌👌
chrisfix junior XD
💪💪👌👌
Looks like a nightmare
🤔🤔🤔🤔
You didn't show the bolts for the back of the vvti feed. I broke off the two back bolts because of your terrible description. To anyone doing this, THERE ARE 2 BOLTS ON THE BACKSIDE OF THE VVTI OIL FEED. I didn't see them because the wiring harness was in the way.
Sorry buddy. If you had an issue removing the cap. You probably shouldn’t have used much force. Examine the situation. Use general knowledge to asses the situation and the two Allen bolts are very noticeable. I’m sorry for the lack of description my friend.
@@KalvinMalli I did. My wiring was in the way. I was also looking at a non vvti sequence chart, so both the video, chart and my wiring stacked. Was just a bad time waiting to happen.
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