How to test Honda ignition distributor TDC CYP CKP ICM CEL P1381, P1831, P1832, P1362CEL hesitation
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
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How to diagnose a distributor for faulty Top dead center, cylinder position, crank shaft position sensors or for bad ignition coil module ICM? Honda distributors has these sensors inside the dizzy and often they go bad and trigger check engine light. It is easy to test a ignition distributor with an AVO meter. Video will guide the home mechanic.
Tools, distributor and other links to browse below. CHECK fitment.
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Thanks bro. It's working. My HRV is alive 😅. I change distributor COIL. Very cheap
Thank you so much. My son has a 94 Civic. So this is the exact distributor we were working with. The problem we were having is the car would run 7 minutes (summer time) and then die. It would not start back up until the car cooled back down. No engine codes. Our ignition coil checked ok. We have the factory service manual and it did not give us the information you provided. When you got into testing the harness is where we found the problem. You tested several points to get a 300-700 ohm reading. We only got the reading between 2 wires.
The distributor we had was an AutoZone gold, 16 months old. Luckily it has lifetime warranty. Put in new one, and works fine now. Thank you for this video.
Thanks! You provided the clearest instructions for testing the distributor components I have read or viewed. Thanks again.
Thank you, exactly what I was looking for.
note that the rotor screw can be very tight, be very careful, use your best philips or better yet japanese JIS. I messed the head of the screw up, had to drill it and use an easy out to get it out, what a job
Great video buddy.
Thank you for your expertise
Great, informative video. Only thing I would add, is that the O-Ring you recommend to replace, does not keep oil out of internals of distributor, it only keeps oil sealed into the cylinder head. The distributor has its own seal around the distributor shaft to seal away internals. To replace, the distributor must be completely disassembled, inside and outside, then seal replaced into housing. I had a cheap new eBay distributor that absolutely poured oil into the cap causing a misfire. Got sent a replacement and same thing. Ended up using the OEM housing with internals from eBay ones, as my OEM pickups were bad. The cheap distributors had too much shaft play and would tear the new seals within a week.
👍 Enjoyed your video
That O ring prevents oil from seeping out of the engine head around the camshaft. I dont see any way oil can go inside the dizzy anyways.
I was looking for test data for the ICM module itself , the resistance between the terminals and forward voltage drop on the IGBT etc., as it is not published anywhere .
This was interesting but some errors here . The rotor arm tip is sandwiched between 2 thin resin kevlar layers and you must test continuity by touching the thin metal between the fibre insulation and the carbon brush contact area . The reading should be 0 or continuity . As your meter was dancing all over the place , you had not made contact with the thin sheet . The reason this is made thin is because a spark jumps easiest from a sharp point . In the old days of thick brass rotors , I filed them to a much thinner point as the cap terminal end .
You are correct that is the tacho or SCS pulse terminal on the ICM but it will on all later models have no connection as the tach signal is picked up from inside the ECU . This can be used if you have a modified engine and wish to use an aftermarket RPM gauge with shift light etc. The wire next to the +12 V ( Honda typically uses Black/Yellow trace for +12V) is actually the Green/Yellow ECU pulse wire ,which is why your meter was dancing as there is no direct connection between the 2 unless triggered during running . Earlier models may be just plain green wire .
A couple of things to clarify , although very similar the Accord model dizzies have larger coils and will not fit the Civic type bodies but the ICM is the same part in both size distributors and are directly interchangeable although the Civic type is screwed to a heatsink .
The coil can in fact test within specification without load but can still fail when driving . This can happen on the Civic type distributors and small coils as the insulation is thin . Check for burn pits close to the shielding and hotspots like bluing discolouration from the centre of the body toward the terminals . This can happen if plugs are not changed or gapped regularly and leads have excessively high resistance ( although an OE Honda lead rarely if ever fails unless physically damaged ) as the HV tries to find an easier route to ground through the thinner insulation on the Tek coils . If replacing a small Civic type coil , I would recommend using a dielectric grease between the shield and coil and apply silicon around areas close to the terminals .
Aftermarket leads are guaranteed to cause trouble . Honda have used Bougicord leads on some vehicles , which I fit for racing as they are again very reliable but have a much lower internal resistance than those shown ( between 5k and 10k ohms for the longest as opposed to nearly twice that for the other variety ) and are also numbered which is handy . The larger Hitachi coils in the Accords rarely give trouble and I have often considered modifying a Civic distributor by cutting away the parts of the body to allow it to fit in and change the terminals over from the screw on to spade and add the spring on assembly off the car when installing the cap . The screw centres are the same and the HV post the same length , but the laminations are thicker and the coil longer. The Accord coil has a higher winding ratio and will produce a healthy spark . The windings typically test 0.7 ohms primary and 27k Ohms secondary (HV terminal ).
you seem very knowledgeable and wanted to ask if you know why my rpm stopped working once i hooked up a wire from the side of the ignition control module where the blue wire is? it was a dumb mistake i know 😅 i also tried switching the computer because i thought i had maybe fried it but no, rmp's still don't work
@@texasnhis49bitches49 I'm having a similar nightmare on one of my V6 Accords here in the UK as it has a Motorola PCM , not a KeiHin etc that we are use to and having to draw up my own PCM schematic as Honda USA couldn't help . Not quite sure what you are doing here , fitting an aftermarket tacho with shift light etc., or using the original ?
The terminal on the SIDE of a typical ICM is the tacho pulse wire ( blue) , the coil pulse on top ( yellow/green) on later ICMs the side terminal is unused because the OB2 ECUs/PCMs ( manual/auto) the pulse is direct from the Controller to Tacho . There are some colour changes in wiring with the Preludes and Accords using the B and D type engines where the coil +ve can be blue . Any misconnection to the ICM will fry it as there is no reverse or over volt protection on the little board inside . It may burn a track which seems usual when they fail .
If the engine starts an runs fine you can check if the tacho pulse out is giving a signal . It uses logic level output 5V , so a 14 volt rated neon bulb , fast LED etc can be hooked up to the pulse tab to ground . It should pulse if OK . Crank engine with cap off so it does not start . If it pulses and you ran the wire directly to the tacho aftermarket or stock then the tacho should operate . I assume you by passed the ECU wire to tach because the tach was not working ? There can be poor connection or shorts at the plugs on the ECU and what it appears you have done is basically eliminated this by running a wire from the ICM to tacho instead of back pobing the the ECU pin and taking that ditectly to the tacho pin on cluster plug . Its the same logic level 5V . If this is what you have done then it is probably solder terminals on the panel in the cluster which you can rerun with an iron , do them all because if one has dry jointed others are likely to fail . If the tacho does not work after checking the ECU tacho wire for shorts/lack of continuity or the method I'm guessing you may have used , then the tacho has developed a fault which can result by applying a 12 V source to the tacho pulse wire by error or simply on assembly . We all buy Hondas because of the interchangeability of engines etc and swapping ECUs using adapters , but this is where the problems can begin at the ECU plugs by repeated swapping , or slight variations in colour coding in some models .
Just for future reference , all the Hitachi ICMs that have the tacho tab are internally wired still and are interchangeable from the F20 etc engines . The only one that is significantly different but has the same bolting footprint is the V6 type which has the built in plug , no tabs . The ones I build use the ISL 9V5036P3-FO85 package which has all the components needed except for a 1k ohm resistor on the input pulse ( Gate) terminal . This will fit inside the original ICM case in all models .after removing the backplate/ heatsink and cleaning out the silicone fill ( that's what the little orange plug is for ).
If I have made any wrong assumption or you need clarification drop a comment .
Great video
Thank you great information
are the ohms the same for an icm on a 1994 honda civic 1.5 dx (4d)(automatic trans)?
EXCELLENT
Hey man i think my distributor doesn't have the spring inside that module tube rn when the car gets hot throws code 4 & check engine comes out then the engine starts to do explotions then lose power starts shaking when i acelerate
the spring is needed in the coil terminal...try find a similar spring
Thank u ❤
I need a new distributor for my del sol(b16a2) someone put an accord distributor on it. Any particular aftermarket distributors you recommend? I would get oem but they don’t exist anymore. I may get a housing and oem parts inside but trying to avoid that if possible.
have u solved the issue after a year?
@@abadibi kinda sorta, I put a new distributor on that I got from eBay but I’m not happy with it. Car runs fine but on initial startup it makes a sound like it has a bad bearing or something then it goes away and it’s def coming from the distributor. I heard AIP electronics sells decent distributors it’s just hoping they still have the one you need in stock. Best of luck to ya
Hi, thanks very much for the video. I have a Civic (D14A2) that is giving the P0335 code and is in limp mode. Do you think the problem is inside the distributor or can it be something else like another sensor somewhere else ??
Thanks !
I have the same issue. Did you figure it out what it was?
@@alexm1736 nope. Ended up selling it
what did you change? anything?
@@brunopdionisio
@@alexm1736 only thing I tried was working used distributor but didn’t make a change
i have a 2003 accord it has a ruff idle and engine is shaking and it wot rev over 5k rpm like its on limp mode no check engine light i scanned it no code ... but the long term fuel was 20% and it was over 15 degrees spark advanced..
I've got a 96 Odyssey with the p1381. It always stalls on the first two key turns almost always starts on the third I bought it that way so I went ahead and did the crank sensor and a timing belt kit. No luck, it had a cheap after market distributor on it, replaced it with used oem one. It started first time with no CEL started it a few times seemed fixed. A few days later I go to start it and it went back to three key turns with p1381. It was warm and sunny the day I thought I fixed it and cold and rainy the day it went back to having the CEL , any idea what my problem is.
1. Check continuity of the wires from the dizzy connector to the computer. 2. Check ignition timing is marks are correct and aligns right. 3. Use a known good dizzy or watch how wisemonkey tests a dizzy in my other video.
@@wisemonkey1551 Thanks for the reply.
What is the firing order for a first gen crv distributor?? I’ve looks up diagrams online, but I’ve found multiple different results
Did you found it, I'm having same issue finding one
My car has just died hope to check icm and see as my coil is good just replaced it
Is there any difference between the $60 amazon/ebay distributors and the $200 auto parts/rock auto store dizzys?
I had good results from both price category. But look at the reviews.
Yeah....$140.00 🤣
Great video! Thanks a lot! Is it possible to replace the TDC module?
for 20-22k ohm secondary coil resistance is it still good?
What is the minimum Homs for coil ? Thanks
Teen to teen k ohms
Onde fica a o tdc do civic 95 Ex
Hi, how many ohms is in green yelow wire( ignition controle module input)
Anime yes
Seria bueno quitar las letras para poder ver un componente del distribuidor
❤❤❤❤
Gosh, Change your Smoke Detectors Battery!.
Hey man my 1991 civic throws code 4 crank position sensor can i replase only the sensor inside the distributor ?
if you can find a good used or new sensor then yes it is possible to change
@@wisemonkey1551 cant find one but the distributor is very expensive were i live :/ can't buy one just replase fuel pump & im broke rn
@@rendiix4269 code 4 is ckp sensor inside dizzy unfortunately. $60 dollars new dizzy on ebay I think
220$ costs for me :/
Rendii X4 got a whole dizzy off amazon for 83 bucks. Right now it’s on sale for 58. Worked great on my 90 wagon and my 89 hatch
Is there a way to check if distributor is good without the device used in the video?
muy bueno... pero antes de revisar la mayoria de los sensores revisar el alternador hay veses que falla y provoca que los sensores den mala lectura.. saludos.
Changed the Distributor, spark plugs, new tranny/ engine oil, vtec solenoid , idle control valve, new belts , spark plug wires , tranny neutral switch sensor, cleaned throttle body, changed MAP sensor, dont know what else to do??? P1381 STILL exist with hesitation wont pass 3k-rpms
check connectivity of the wire from distributor plug to the ecu. most likelyCYP wire broke and became intermittent somewhere in between.
Did you ever fix your issue? I’m having something very similar happen. It’s an intermittent p1381 code and I’ve changed so many parts on integra
You need a brandnew car dude 😂
What's a tacometer
It measures how many tacos
Tell me why do u show something on RUclips and block the video by writing over the video
You said 9.2, what should it be I don’t think you know what you’re talking about
Camera should be way closer so ppl can see details. Terminology and explanations too vague. If you're going to conclude something when giving advuce, use proper terminology, and explain WHY something is good or bad. This vid just leaves a lot out that wouldn't have made it any longer. When one has strong accent it helps to speak more precisely and slower. Appreciate effort.
I guess everybody has accent when heard from out of states! Like you speaking in NovaScotia will be looked at but well understood. Smart brains understands vast accents easily. These videos are mainly to help people, in return I get barely any money, and 98% of the viewers do not even subscribe. Which would have brought some bucks for my tough efforts.