How To Test The Ignition Control Module (1999, 2000, 2001 2.0L Honda CR-V)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2018
- How To Test The Ignition Control Module With An LED Light On The 1999, 2000, 2001 2.0L Honda CR-V.
Free troubleshooting guide here: easyautodiagnostics.com/honda...
LED light at RadioShack: www.radioshack.com/pages/sear...
How To Test The Ignition Coil (1999-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V) RUclips video: • How To Test The Igniti...
How To Test The Ignition Coil (1999-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V) at easyautodiagnostics.com: easyautodiagnostics.com/honda... 
Авто/Мото
Thank you! This is the exact test that I've been looking for all over the internet that I can't find. I'm testing my '97 Honda prelude and I think it's the same wiring
Very Informative. Very Concise. Very Knowledgeable. This Gentlemen Knows What he's Doing.
Can you also do a video on how to test the crankshaft position sensor to make sure it's putting out signal
very clear concise detailed instruction. Excellent video
Sir please upload more videos really liked very useful for me as a technician from india
right to the point thanks
It was the ingnition coil! Thx! Super helpful, step by step instructions.
This was not a ign coil test, but an ignition module test..u may be calling it the wrong part or.... tested further-?
@@shorelined1 I had no spark at any of the plugs and my little incandescent bulb setup did light up when cranking the motor over. Yes it was the ICM - module, not the coil. This was on a 2000 civic.
Great vedeo
My 2000 CRV stalls randomly then stop and it restarts. I changed the main relay and the fuel filter. I cleaned the intake manifold and the screen on the AIC unit. Please, do you have any ideas? It does idle roughly, might the ignition control unit cause that? Thank you so much..
hello good morning i have honda accord 1995. ok i take out the distributor for replace inside oring and put it back and know dont start only crank ok. i follow the instrucition that you said before ok.. i put the led like you said and i get the ligth. constant lit. no blinking. what i can be thank you in advance
Can you do similar tests with a regular test light? Or will that sometimes be hard to see the pulse (turning on and off) on a regular test light as opposed to an LED test light like you have? I was using a regular cheap bought test light and could not tell for sure if it was pulsing (turning on and off) or not when I was trying to test the Ignition Control Module (some call igniter). I need to know if it was not working or was I just not seeing the test light pulsing?
You'll need to use an LED light. From personal experience I can tell you that an automotive 12 Volt test light will not give an accurate result.
Okay so if I'm getting power the coil, the module is good?
Hi, I tried hooking my light from the yellow green stripe wire to positive and got a constant light. Any idea what this could be?
was that while you cranked engine or with out ?
This might be a bit late, but a constant light (that does not blink on and off) lets you know that the signal is not present.
Hello curless90, How you solve that problem?
@@tecman129 So glad you added this extra tidbit
Can I use A volt meter and see if the voltage jumps up and down on the meter?
If you mean using a voltmeter for the spark tests, it will not work.
What I was referring to is the test is show in this video. Between the Yellow/green wire and the positive battery post. I am having a hard time finding an LED tester @@tecman129
Thanks for your videos they were very helpful I got the crv fixed by process of elimination. It wound up being the pcm saved a ton of money by following these videos.
Can an aftermarket NEW fail? My mechanic said I need OEM that one wouldn't even crank after installed.
Yes, a new aftermarket ignition control module can fail. For the most part, failures are usually due to the fact that the new ignition control module is a cheap knock-off part. It's important to replace the ignition control module with a known automotive aftermarket brand. If available, I recommend the following two known brands: Delphi or Standard Motor Products.
Hello Sir
when I connect yellow with green strip wire to positive terminal like in this video.
[1] Ignition on >> light is on weakly.
[2] Ignition off >> light is on brightly.
In this video, Led light is off.
When the crankshaft is start , Led light is on/off.
Can you advise me?
If the LED light is blinking ON and OFF, when you crank the engine, then you can conclude that the ignition module is getting an activation signal.
What the LED light does before or after cranking the engine does not matter. The important test result is if the LED light is flashing ON and OFF when cranking the engine.
Now, if the ignition control module is getting an activation signal but the ignition coil is NOT getting its activation signal, then you can conclude that the ignition control module is bad.
To be a bit more specific, you can conclude that the ignition control module is bad if you have:
1.) Confirmed that the ignition coil is NOT sparking.
2.) Confirmed that the ignition coil is getting 10 to 12 Volts.
3.) Confirmed that the ignition coil IS NOT getting an activation signal.
4.) Confirmed that the ignition control module is getting its activation signal (as confirmed by the LED light flashing ON and OFF).
Thanks Sir,
1. I can cormfrim no spark.
2.I can comfrim 10 or 12 Volts
3. Ignition coil is not getting activation when I cranking engine.
Is it mean ICM is bad?
To get activation signal, what sensor I will check?
CKP sensor ?
TDC sensor?
CYL sensor?
Hi i have Problem with my distributor i changed a new cap new coil new rotor and i changed the icm from two other distributors but. All 4 sparkplugs are spark but don't start. If i crank the engine stop and turn the ignition on step 2 it come a little misfire.
If change the distributor complete to a newly the motor runs.
So what can do that my oem distributor runs?
Check main relay PGMFI..injector no't working.
aftermarket junk
The RadioShack link is not working anymore. Here's an updated link to it. www.radioshack.com/products/12v-led-assembly-with-6mm-holder-green
Good evening sir hope your day is going well! I have a 2003 DODGE CARAVAN SE that is giving me several codes p1684, p0300, p0303, p0420 & p0306. Can you please help me out sir? I will appreciate your help alot! I have this tool from harbor freight called CEN-TECH 6/12V Circuit Tester with 5 ft. Lead part number 63603. I did see this other tool in harbor freight called CEN-TECH Computer Safe Automotive Logic Probe part number 63597.
What if my rotor isn't spinning and the timing belt is not broken?
Hey Justin, sounds like the camshaft has broken in two pieces. I've seen this happen before several times (usually cause the engine was low on oil, etc.). Do this: remove the valve cover and have someone crank the engine while you observe the camshaft. If only the front part of the camshaft turns but the end that connects to the distributor does not, then it's broken.
If the entire camshaft turns, but the distributor rotor does not, then the distributor's shaft is broken or damaged. In this case, remove the distributor and check the part that fits into the camshaft. See if it's damaged/broken. Hope this helps! Let me know of your results.
But WHERE is the Ignition Control Module? I was told to check it but can’t figure out what it is. I couldn’t tell from the video either.
Inside the distributor
where is it in a 1992 Honda accord? Inside the distributor there is no coil!!
L E D light
Wy my yellow and green wire stay with ground all time
My engine starts but the mecanic said the ignition control module it doesnt work when my engine gets hot
In this case, it's important to perform the ignition control module tests when the engine is hot and does not start. The symptom you're describing, the ignition module not working when it gets hot, does happen in some cases when the ignition module goes bad. If the ignition module proves to be good (after testing it when the engine gets hot and doesn't start) I would recommend testing the main relay. The main relay is the one provides power to the fuel pump and the fuel injection system. There's a good chance that the fuel pump circuit part (of the relay) is bad -this is a very common problem with Honda main relays.
@@tecman129 rn my car doesnt start no more i have spark fuel & correct timing but my car doesn't start we tested main relay & cant find the problem
If spark and fuel are present and the timing belt is not busted, then I recommend that you test the engine's compression. When did the problem start? What year, make and model vehicle are you working on?
@@tecman129 1991 honda civic d15b2 the problem started when i remobe the distributor to take it to the autoparts so they can send me the correct one then 3 days after i got home with my other distributor but the car didnt start no more so i thought the dizzy i brought was bad then i test it out with my old dizzy & the car didnt start i checked fuses & they are good i have around 145psi on each cylinder ,new battery new fuel pump
@@luciferjr4204 If you can, remove the distributor cap from the distributor, disconnect the distributor from its connectors, have someone crank the engine as you observe the distributor's rotor. The rotor should turn as the engine cranks. If the rotor turns, rotate the crankshaft pulley to top dead center and see if the rotor is facing the #1 spark plug wire tower. This is the tower that the spark plug wire for #1 cylinder connects to. The purpose of this test is to see if the timing belt is off by one or more teeth. Once you finish the tests, report your results back to me here. How did you test for spark and fuel pressure?