Hey Phillip, this video saved my RD1. Noticed some lost power and adjusted my valves, sure enough the exhaust valves on cylinders 2-4 were way too tight. But while doing this job, I found a serious gash in my timing belt. Belt was only 2.5 years/8k miles old and I wouldn't have even thought about replacing it any time soon. Doing this valve adjustment saved my engine in more ways than one. Just want to say thanks for all you do, you're my go-to guy for RD1 repairs!
I was nervous about doing this job, and was almost willing to spend the $$ to have a shop do it, but followed the video to a T and fixed my random misfire code for much cheaper. Thanks alot man!!
@@jacobhernandez4123could be your distributor but I’m not a mechanic but had misfire codes kept driving the car eventually I parked it and came back it would only crank no start I changed the whole distributor started right up but once again not a mechanic
Thanks for the video. Just came here to get the valve lash specs. Last place I looked up gave me the wrong ones and my CRV was starting to sound like a diesel. Also, for anyone doing this. You do not have to turn the engine over by using the crank bolt. With the spark plugs out, you can just bump the key to get the cam lobes facing up. You don't technically need to put every piston at TDC compression stroke. Hell, you don't even have to adjust the intake and exhaust valves at the exact same time on each cylinder. Main thing to remember is that the lobe is pointing almost completely straight up or close to straight up.
Phillip, absolutely right about not overtightening those nuts! The valve cover 10 mm nuts have a torque spec of just 86 inch-pounds (7.2 ft-lb), meaning just hand tight with a quarter inch drive ratchet.
Been a Honda lover since I bought 2 Honda Del Sols. His and Hers. Got my Daughter an old Accord that she drove all through high school and college. Years later and kid 5. A 2000 Civic D16y8. It is in the Garage now with a warped head. It is almost finished and looking nice with cleaned and painted everything. You my friend made me go buy a 1997 CR-V and it reminds me of my old Element but better on gas. I am going to restore it and probably watch a lot of you. Thanks, You do a great job explaining.
It literally started raining on me when it started raining on you in the video. I followed this all the way through for doing my valves on my 2001 crv. Thanks very much!
You are a legend man! I just followed your video to a T, and the misfire that has been on and off in my RD1 is finally gone. Thanks for posting such an awesome resource!
Just got done doing this to mine and wanted to say thank you, Phillip! Very clear explanation, and straight to the point. Had some exhaust valves that were getting pretty loose (9 thou). Got it running like a top now!
I just picked up a 2000 rd1 a few weeks ago. Thank you for all your videos, they are priceless! just adjusted my valves and changed my timing belt/tensioner/water pump. she runs much better now.
This video made an intimidating job easy and fun! I had a cylinder 3 misfire code, and when I got in there discovered that one of the exhaust lobes was making contact all the way around. No more CEL! Thanks!
Just got a recementdation from the dealer after having them service the airbag recall to have the valves adjusted, I'm an average diy'er and having watched your video and maxed out at a valve gasket replacement on a focus, I feel confident in doing this diy and saving money for my family, thank you!
Thanks for the great video, Phillip! You're the only person on RUclips right now (4-13-2022) who seems to know what they're doing on gen 1 CR-Vs. I've learned which valve adjustment tool and feeler gauges to buy and I think I can do it. I'm also replacing the valve cover gasket and tube seals. I don't remember if it was a Fel-Pro set I put in a few years ago. I'm about to tackle maintenance, starting with a valve adjustment and tune-up. I ended up replacing the PS pump. It was whining like crazy and leaking. I also need to replace the drive belts, front torque mounts, and timing belt and water pump soon. Those are due in 3,000 miles.
I think it helps the instructional quality of the video significantly when the camera is mounted (or held by someone else) while the mechanic is using BOTH hands to do the actual repair! Thank you.
You have become my CRV tutor - I like the way you explain the process and sharing your knowledge to get the job done. The engine sounds perfect after valve lash adjustment. I must say it took me a while since I want to rotate crank one more time to double check the clearance after the first adjustment. I used a box wench and a screw driver to do the job. I didn't replace valve gasket, the OEM rubber gasket was in good condition. I did clean and apply thin silicon RTV on the corners of the valve cover. I also want to thank you for sharing your video on CRV window regulator assembly. You helped me on that one too! THANKS!! I do have a question on my timing belt - I checked inside(curve) of timing belt each time when I rotated the crank for valve adjustment. I did not see any wear or tear after 100,000 miles' driving- I replaced at Honda dealership when it was 200,000 miles many years ago. My current CRV mileage - 301,443. I know it is due for replacement but the condition of the OEM belt just too good. You comment is greatly appreciated. Love your channel!!!
Just did this job tonight. Followed your video step by step. I think it all worked out. Sure is finicky to do with a wrench and a screw driver. Have to get them all consistent. Wasn’t sure how much resistance is required with the right feeler, but I made them fit snug, and made sure the next size up feeler didn’t fit in. Sure seemed to make things much more quiet and got rid of some of the lag. Sure hope I did ok. Your video really helped. Thank you.
The easiest way I've found is the go/no-go method. For example, if the larger spec calls for .008 you want that feeler gauge to fit through but the .009 will not. It takes all of the guesswork out of it and your valves will be adjusted to the loose side of specs. I've been doing it this way on my Hondas for around 25 years and never had a problem.
I just got my first Honda CRV and it's amazing how simple vehicles are to repair due to the condition the engine I know I'm going to be needing help and these videos are very helpful
Thanks for sharing this! I’m a vintage vw gal, which means I’ve adjusted a few valves in my day lol but we have an older Honda that threw a “misfire and valve” code and check engine light popped on, you gave a very detailed and good description on what I need to do this weekend to get the job done! Thank you! New sub!
I rarely comment … today on my 97 crv did the valve adjustment and follow your video step by step …. Exhaust side were way to tight and my car has over 220,000 miles but my motor has always been quiet …even quieter now and feels great with this ….my only big scare due to my human error was that tool you use for adjustment is no longer available, more specifically the 12mm size so I use a 12mm wrench and screw driver and when loosening the nut the valve rocker came off… luckily nothing broke just slipped off and was able to use a wooden rod to push exhaust valve down and slip it back in and double checked and turned the engine over with my ratchet after placement and what a relief… bloody hands but feeling satisfied… thank you for this video really helped and hopefully making my crv get a few more miles on
@@menaceemceefiend9716 when tightening my hand slipped and valve rocker came off…held in by pressure of valve springs I was able to push it back in… it only happened to one …if your careful you will avoid my error
@@hondaresource Have you ever dealt with a crv that made a high pitched noise starting around 40 mph and when going faster the noise went along with the speed? The noise sounds like its coming from the right front side of the crv..
Your channel is THE place to go to learn how to keep my 2001 CRV on the road safely! The knowledge you share with the youtube masses is priceless! Thanks Phillip !!!
I love that valve tool I always just use a flat head and a 12mm wrench but after watching this I got a valve tool and now I’m forever spoiled thanks buddy great video love these crv’s
Propped my phone up under the hood and did the job. EXCELLENT instructions, thank you very much. Runs like a top. ALSO, I didn't know that it had a cabin filter lol the one l took out weighed about a pound and what a mess still in there. Cleaned it all out, MUCH better air flow. Great videos 👍👍
Absolute best video on the internet showing how to adjust valves on a crv. Just did mine following your video and wow was it easy with your amazing instructions. The only thing I would add is to put a measuring stick down each cylinder as you’re trying to find TDC and the specific ft points to tighten the valve bolts. Took me 1.5 hours as all 16 were out of adjustment and double checked everything after I went through it once. Vehicle runs much better.
@@menaceemceefiend9716 Valve Clearance Intake: 0.08 - 0.12mm (0.003 - 0.005 in) Exhaust: 0.16 - 0.20mm (0.006 - 0.008 in) These are maximums for both ways you want to be in the middle when you adjust them.
Excellent video. I only adjusted valves on a car once 40 years ago. Had hydraulics in between my CRV. After watching your video got through it pretty well. Replaced leaking cam seal, and also discovered why I was getting oil on my spark plugs. The four rubber cylinder seals got hard and allowed oil to get in and cover the plugs. The timing marks were a little different than yours but figured it out. Also one thing that was really hard was trying to adjust the valves. The threads were really seized and had a hard time moving them with screwdriver. Eventually worked them back and forth and got oil in them to free them up. Car runs good now but wonder when I should adjust them next time. 30,000?
Youre the man. Looking forward to doing my wifes car this weekend. You have the best vids out of the ones on youtube that ive seen. Very clear and precise
Doing this tonight and doing a Seafoam treatment into the intake. :) Thanks for all the helpful videos. You’ve helped me do my power window actuator and now this!
Update: Phillip, just one more note. I have a 97 CR-V, and the valve lash specs on the original sticker under the hood are intake: 0.15 mm and exhaust: 0.28 mm, both cold. I called my local Honda dealer and the tech said as long as the sticker is the original that came with that truck to use those values. So that's what I'm going to do. Update: I tried the valve lash specs under the hood, and they probably worked many years ago, but when I set the valves to those specs they chattered like crazy. I did it again using 0.004" on intakes and 0.007" on exhaust, and everything sounds great! Lesson: even if your engine had different specs 25 years ago, they likely won't work now. Use the new specs. The thing that bothers me is I couldn't find any articles TSBs or even forum or blog posts about changing the specs. I'll keep looking.
@@hondaresource I would post a pic of my sticker, but RUclips doesn't seem to support image replies. My CR-V sticker is a little different than most I've seen. It was fitted to meet the stricter environmental standards in California, but ended up in Texas where I bought it. I live in south Louisiana. Given the amounts of smog, particulates, and ozone in our air here, I'm glad my truck emits fewer pollutants. I'll email a pic to you from your website.
@TheHondaResource I decided to search for the under-hood emissions stickers and the only difference I found is my sticker has a K-A at the bottom left and all the other stickers I've found have your valve lash specs and a K-F at the bottom left of the sticker. The K-A sticker is applicable only to the new 1997 model year. All the other sticker pics I've found are for other model years.
Appreciate you always sharing your insight on CRV's. Forgive me if you've covered it in the video, but how often do you do this for your daily driver? I intend to set aside 20 minutes and sit down to watch the video once I actually fix some other stuff. Never done a valve adjustment once in 10+ years, been running fine but looking to learn skills to improve my car. One quick google result mentions RD1's would do good every 30k miles. Would you agree?
Great video, thorough and informative. I check the valve lash before I loosen the nut. If it's within specs, I don't touch it. Also, I use a box wrench and a screw driver instead of the valve adjustment tool.
Thanks for the informational video, you were very helpful. Did my daughters 99 crv exhaust valve adjustment today. The P030x codes are not being thrown now. A few of the cams would not adjust within spec. Spec says 0.18 +/- 0.02 mm, and I could not get 0.16mm to fit with the screw all the way out. But considering I backed the screw out several turns each valve, they were WAY too tight. I now have a bit more valve noise than before, which I'm hoping is ok for a car with 230,000 miles.
Just handled that your the goat you saved me money and now it’s running smooth like butter I used OEM parts as well definitely seen a blue head gasket under there disgusting 😂
Must have watched this like 10 times. It looks easy enough, like leveling the bed of a 3D printer. But I'm still getting up the nerve to crack open my valve cover. I really hope its the OEM gasket.
You got this dude its honestly really easy i readjusted mine a few days ago i still got a little chatter so im going back at it today but this is a great vid for reference.
Found you via Facebook - howdy! I went ahead and bought a new valve cover gasket with spark plug tube seals and grommets. Also got a can of red hi-temp spray paint for the valve cover, and all the tools. Temp is supposed to be above 70F on Thursday so that's when I'm planning to do this.
@@hondaresource Did it Thursday, got the cover painted. All intakes were loose. All exhausts were a little tight, but the exhaust valve closer to the dist on cylinders 2 and 4 were both really tight. The one on 2 took over a half turn to loosen it up so the feeler gauge would go in, and the one on 4 took over a full turn.I've put close to 100 miles on it since doing the job, no CEL. Before, after clearing codes I couldn't get 5 miles down the road before the CEL came on with P0302 and/or P0304
Valve lash is the #1 Killer of 1st Gen CRVs. The Exhaust end up burnt through and a new head is needed. Also kills valve seals, making you think you need a rebuild.
Hi. Thank you for the Video. One Q. Those 12mm jam nut on each cylinder, How hard do you torqu down jam nut? Is there a torque spec? Do you just tighten with your hand by feel? How hard?
Anybody out there had any problems aligning the rear end I have replace all the suspension components Goodyear has done it twice they still not can't fix it it wears the tires out fast has anybody had any problems could wheel bearings because of this any advice would be great thank you
You don't need a fancy valve adjusting tool. Just a flat head screwdriver and a box wrench will work just fine. Also don't need to adjust the valves that are already in speck. Just check the valve clearance first with go no go gage.
Yeah, I've been adjusting the valve clearance on my Hondas for decades(the first time was on my '88 Accord) and it was a Godsend when someone explained the "go/no go" method on one of the CRV forums around 25 years ago as it took the guesswork out a very tedious job.
@@hondaresource I just found you and have been binge watching your videos. I’ve been able to do some maintenance on my 2000 CRV (first time in my life even looking under the hood of a car!). Your videos are wonderfully detailed, but there are some things I just don’t feel confident enough to tackle. I don’t have much faith in any local repair shops. You’re about 6 hours from me, and I’m tempted to take a road trip. My lil ‘AnnaHonda’ is a beast, and I’d have no worries about ending up sitting on the side of the road. 😎
After we put them all back, I dont understand what we need to do next the take the 19mm out? Do we need to tight it back clockwise after we done #2?? Hope you still check the comment and answer. I really appreciate your help + videos => all yours videos save my CRV 1999 in many parts
Doesn't hurt to pull of PCV and quit it out with carb clearer, just in case someone in the past went long on oil changes. Also first thing to do if see smoking when accelerating after extended idling. And do Valentine's adjustments and PCV BEFORE oil change. Oil after warm up and good test drive including high speed/interstate, dump while oil hot, of course.
These engines suffer from valve seat recession. This is why the exhaust valve clearance will tighten over time, cause a check engine light and misfire code. If you continue to drive it under this condition, it will eventually burn an exhaust valve and that means expensive repair due to the labor to get to it. So perform the valve adjustment as shown at the recommended intervals, or immediately if you get a CEL and rough idle. It is possible you run out of adjustment on a rocker screw. If that happens, you can slightly modify the rocker for more clearance. See my video on this.
Good to know. I just got one and had no idea that you had to adjust the valves and it would toss a code for it. Guess I need to get my scanner and possibly tools out
Just bought a 2000 CR-V literally needs everything. Its a 💩📦. Tires are bad. Missing the 4wd parts the differential kinda just hanging there...... like old man balls. Apparently hes been driving around like that says its been fine 🫤. Transmission rev's a little high then shifts. Driver door lock, that hinge to the body is missing a screw so door doesn't shut well and you need to jiggle the key so it unlocks. Headlights center screw mounts are both broken off. Grill isn't broken BUT IT'S THE WRONG COLOR 😮💨Missing the picknic table and minor plastic cover in the rear. but been replaced by a strong piece of wood 🤗 yay lucky day huh. Its one redeeming quality the body straight clean and white. I figure besides the ((tune up)) stuff i should start with transmission ((flush)) and hope for the best. But now after changing the plugs and what not the values definitely need to be adjusted. This guy did absolutely no maintenance besides maybe a oil change. Thanks to him you know have a loyal subscriber. 😵 FML
6:42 TDC indicators 12:56 camshaft gears rotate 90deg = crankshaft pulley rotating 180 deg(?) 16:04 dab of silicone at corners of gasket applied on lid, instead of head
Nice man. That has helped me an eff-load. I'm planning on doing this REAL dang soon. I just have always wondered about yanking the head parts off of my stuff, but this seems stupid easy. I have the feeler guage, and that's basically the only the must have tool for this other than to advance the pistons, so hopefully it will be a breeze if I don't drop a socket into the head.. 😂
searched to watch how to do this so im not going blind last year when i got my b20b jdm swap done and i gave up but im doing this asap now, done it on my dirt bike so it shouldnt be too hard
Just did the valve lash on my 99 RD1 thanks to this video!! No more clicking at low speed and low rpms!! I now have a kind of off topic question though. When doing this job, I thought I would replace the PCV Valve. Recently I’ve been seeing a lot of videos of Oil Catch Cans and how they help out a lot. Would it be necessary to put one on? The job seems easy but would there be a good benefit to having one? Thank you for this awesome video and thank you for reading this!
Excellent video I am assuming the spark plugs were not removed for the valve adjustment please correct me if I am wrong. I drive a 99 Civic I know the procedure is very similar but did your CRV have lifter tick only after the engine warmed up or on warm starts? My Civic engine sounds excellent no ticking from the top of the engine when started in the morning after leaving it off all night. I only notice ticking after the car has been running for a while or on warm starts engine does not sound terrible just hear ticking and the ticking is worse when the AC is off but when the AC is on the ticking is almost completely gone when I listen to the engine with the hood open. I use high mileage synthetic blend oil 5w 30 car runs excellent I am thinking all the car needs is a valve adjustment has a little over 163,000 miles and I almost guarantee you the valve clearances were never adjusted.
Thank you for this. I subbed because I'm a diy typa guy and just got a rd1 crv. What are the indicators of needing this done besides the every 30k do it. I have a slight ticking when cold starting my b20z. It immediately stops after running. 3 seconds of noise then smooth. Thanks in advance
just curious. I just bought a 98 crv and i love it. Want to use it in the snow as it is awd. I'm replacing valve cover gasket this weekend and debating on doing this. Car runs amazing no issues just leaky valve cover which makes it smell a little like burnt oil well im assuming that is the cause right? Lol, do you recommend doing the adjustment while im at it? never done either adjustment or gasket what do you recommend? Seeing your other vid on valve cover gasket which i will use as guide! Thank you man.
Amazing video! What is the torque spec for the adjustment nut? I noticed that you just tightened it with the adjustment tool, but I just want to be sure I'm in no danger of over tightening or under tightening. Thanks! BTW: your method is teaching was beyond phenomenal. I'd be down to be your garage assistant any day. Just subbed !
I followed your instructions and was able to get all the valves adjusted to spec. The best takeaway for me was checking the next size up feeler gauge. Great tip. I noted that several of the rockers were sloppy even after adjusting. Is this normal? I still have rattling noise on startup but does quiet right down after warm up. Any ideas?
very good videos, I have learned a lot so far. I have a question . we adjusted the valve clearance on a hona cr-v, but nothing can be adjusted on the exhaust side. My question is, what can be done in this case?
Are you saying that there are no lock nuts and adjuster screws on the exhaust valves, but there are on the intake valves? What year and what engine are you working on?
Hey Phillip, this video saved my RD1. Noticed some lost power and adjusted my valves, sure enough the exhaust valves on cylinders 2-4 were way too tight. But while doing this job, I found a serious gash in my timing belt. Belt was only 2.5 years/8k miles old and I wouldn't have even thought about replacing it any time soon. Doing this valve adjustment saved my engine in more ways than one. Just want to say thanks for all you do, you're my go-to guy for RD1 repairs!
I was nervous about doing this job, and was almost willing to spend the $$ to have a shop do it, but followed the video to a T and fixed my random misfire code for much cheaper. Thanks alot man!!
Heck yeah man
hey im also have misfires did you engine also shut off out of no were ?
@@jacobhernandez4123could be your distributor but I’m not a mechanic but had misfire codes kept driving the car eventually I parked it and came back it would only crank no start I changed the whole distributor started right up but once again not a mechanic
Did mine today using this video, cam plug too. She idles much quieter now. You are a huge asset to the RD1 community! Subscribed!
Good deal!
Thanks for the video. Just came here to get the valve lash specs. Last place I looked up gave me the wrong ones and my CRV was starting to sound like a diesel.
Also, for anyone doing this. You do not have to turn the engine over by using the crank bolt. With the spark plugs out, you can just bump the key to get the cam lobes facing up. You don't technically need to put every piston at TDC compression stroke. Hell, you don't even have to adjust the intake and exhaust valves at the exact same time on each cylinder. Main thing to remember is that the lobe is pointing almost completely straight up or close to straight up.
Phillip, absolutely right about not overtightening those nuts! The valve cover 10 mm nuts have a torque spec of just 86 inch-pounds (7.2 ft-lb), meaning just hand tight with a quarter inch drive ratchet.
You can tell this guy knows is Honda's, like what you doing
His Honda
@@jamestyndall529 I used talk-to-text sometimes I don't proofread
Been a Honda lover since I bought 2 Honda Del Sols. His and Hers. Got my Daughter an old Accord that she drove all through high school and college. Years later and kid 5. A 2000 Civic D16y8. It is in the Garage now with a warped head. It is almost finished and looking nice with cleaned and painted everything. You my friend made me go buy a 1997 CR-V and it reminds me of my old Element but better on gas. I am going to restore it and probably watch a lot of you. Thanks, You do a great job explaining.
Awesome!
It literally started raining on me when it started raining on you in the video. I followed this all the way through for doing my valves on my 2001 crv. Thanks very much!
But in another video the adjustment was 008 for intake andr 012 for exhaust
@@PedroA518 I followed the video but also checked the sticker under the hood of course.
You are a legend man! I just followed your video to a T, and the misfire that has been on and off in my RD1 is finally gone. Thanks for posting such an awesome resource!
That's awesome
Just got done doing this to mine and wanted to say thank you, Phillip! Very clear explanation, and straight to the point. Had some exhaust valves that were getting pretty loose (9 thou). Got it running like a top now!
Good deal!
Best CRV repair channel around. Rebuilding one these days thanks to the help from these videos.. much appreciated !
Thank you
One of the best informative videos I've seen. Just plain language anyone can understand.
Thank you
Just bought a 98 with 195K , your Videos are very Helpful . I plan on doing the Valve cover gasket and this adjustment as well .
Thank you
@@hondaresource Hey , do you know where someone could buy the steering knuckle, with hub and bearing already assembled ?
I just picked up a 2000 rd1 a few weeks ago. Thank you for all your videos, they are priceless! just adjusted my valves and changed my timing belt/tensioner/water pump. she runs much better now.
Glad to help
This video made an intimidating job easy and fun! I had a cylinder 3 misfire code, and when I got in there discovered that one of the exhaust lobes was making contact all the way around. No more CEL! Thanks!
Heck yeah! I'm glad it helped
Just got a recementdation from the dealer after having them service the airbag recall to have the valves adjusted, I'm an average diy'er and having watched your video and maxed out at a valve gasket replacement on a focus, I feel confident in doing this diy and saving money for my family, thank you!
Awesome man 🤟
Thanks for the great video, Phillip! You're the only person on RUclips right now (4-13-2022) who seems to know what they're doing on gen 1 CR-Vs. I've learned which valve adjustment tool and feeler gauges to buy and I think I can do it. I'm also replacing the valve cover gasket and tube seals. I don't remember if it was a Fel-Pro set I put in a few years ago. I'm about to tackle maintenance, starting with a valve adjustment and tune-up. I ended up replacing the PS pump. It was whining like crazy and leaking. I also need to replace the drive belts, front torque mounts, and timing belt and water pump soon. Those are due in 3,000 miles.
Thank you for the kind words!
I think it helps the instructional quality of the video significantly when the camera is mounted (or held by someone else) while the mechanic is using BOTH hands to do the actual repair! Thank you.
Great how to video. Perfect details of each step. I feel 100% confident I can do this. Thanks you!
Heck yeah!
@@hondaresourcecan you tell me how to make beeping stop when key is in ignition?
You have become my CRV tutor - I like the way you explain the process and sharing your knowledge to get the job done.
The engine sounds perfect after valve lash adjustment. I must say it took me a while since I want to rotate crank one more time to double check the clearance after the first adjustment. I used a box wench and a screw driver to do the job. I didn't replace valve gasket, the OEM rubber gasket was in good condition. I did clean and apply thin silicon RTV on the corners of the valve cover.
I also want to thank you for sharing your video on CRV window regulator assembly. You helped me on that one too! THANKS!!
I do have a question on my timing belt - I checked inside(curve) of timing belt each time when I rotated the crank for valve adjustment. I did not see any wear or tear after 100,000 miles' driving- I replaced at Honda dealership when it was 200,000 miles many years ago. My current CRV mileage - 301,443. I know it is due for replacement but the condition of the OEM belt just too good. You comment is greatly appreciated. Love your channel!!!
Just run it, I've never had one bebe valves when the belt breaks.
@@hondaresource Thanks for your reply. I appreciate your input.
Just did this job tonight. Followed your video step by step. I think it all worked out. Sure is finicky to do with a wrench and a screw driver. Have to get them all consistent. Wasn’t sure how much resistance is required with the right feeler, but I made them fit snug, and made sure the next size up feeler didn’t fit in. Sure seemed to make things much more quiet and got rid of some of the lag. Sure hope I did ok. Your video really helped. Thank you.
Sounds like you got it fixed up! Congrats man!
The easiest way I've found is the go/no-go method. For example, if the larger spec calls for .008 you want that feeler gauge to fit through but the .009 will not. It takes all of the guesswork out of it and your valves will be adjusted to the loose side of specs. I've been doing it this way on my Hondas for around 25 years and never had a problem.
I thought you were BJ Penn for a second, but youre the cooler one - you got the CRV
Ha, thanks!
I just got my first Honda CRV and it's amazing how simple vehicles are to repair due to the condition the engine I know I'm going to be needing help and these videos are very helpful
Awesome! Good to have you here!
Thanks for sharing this! I’m a vintage vw gal, which means I’ve adjusted a few valves in my day lol but we have an older Honda that threw a “misfire and valve” code and check engine light popped on, you gave a very detailed and good description on what I need to do this weekend to get the job done! Thank you! New sub!
Thank you! My wife loves the buses!
Had an old VW bus but you can't go wrong with an old Honda
Bruh, you did this in the rain!? Beast 🤘 time to get ‘er done. Thanks for the vid, that’s as crystal clear as it’s gonna get.
I rarely comment … today on my 97 crv did the valve adjustment and follow your video step by step …. Exhaust side were way to tight and my car has over 220,000 miles but my motor has always been quiet …even quieter now and feels great with this ….my only big scare due to my human error was that tool you use for adjustment is no longer available, more specifically the 12mm size so I use a 12mm wrench and screw driver and when loosening the nut the valve rocker came off… luckily nothing broke just slipped off and was able to use a wooden rod to push exhaust valve down and slip it back in and double checked and turned the engine over with my ratchet after placement and what a relief… bloody hands but feeling satisfied… thank you for this video really helped and hopefully making my crv get a few more miles on
Heck yeah man!
the valve rocker came off? is this normal to happen? just loosened it up too much? hope i dont run into that as well
@@menaceemceefiend9716 when tightening my hand slipped and valve rocker came off…held in by pressure of valve springs I was able to push it back in… it only happened to one …if your careful you will avoid my error
@@menaceemceefiend9716 it happens from time to time
@@hondaresource Have you ever dealt with a crv that made a high pitched noise starting around 40 mph and when going faster the noise went along with the speed? The noise sounds like its coming from the right front side of the crv..
Your channel is THE place to go to learn how to keep my 2001 CRV on the road safely! The knowledge you share with the youtube masses is priceless! Thanks Phillip !!!
Thank you!
I’ll be doing this on Monday took your knowledge down and I’ll be saving my money doing this repair by myself thanks G
Good deal
I love that valve tool I always just use a flat head and a 12mm wrench but after watching this I got a valve tool and now I’m forever spoiled thanks buddy great video love these crv’s
Definitely worth the money
Propped my phone up under the hood and did the job. EXCELLENT instructions, thank you very much. Runs like a top.
ALSO, I didn't know that it had a cabin filter lol the one l took out weighed about a pound and what a mess still in there. Cleaned it all out, MUCH better air flow. Great videos 👍👍
That's awesome. I'm glad you found my videos helpful
I want to thank you for taking the time to do this video. Saved me a couple hundred bucks and she purs like a kitten. Great video.
I'm glad you found it helpful
Hi Phillips, i see your video and i can feel the power of the Honda Lovers, appreciate you for give us the trust for do it by ourselves!!
Thank you
Absolute best video on the internet showing how to adjust valves on a crv. Just did mine following your video and wow was it easy with your amazing instructions. The only thing I would add is to put a measuring stick down each cylinder as you’re trying to find TDC and the specific ft points to tighten the valve bolts. Took me 1.5 hours as all 16 were out of adjustment and double checked everything after I went through it once. Vehicle runs much better.
Glad to hear I helped you!
what would be the measurements for each cylinder?
@@menaceemceefiend9716 Valve Clearance Intake: 0.08 - 0.12mm (0.003 - 0.005 in) Exhaust: 0.16 - 0.20mm (0.006 - 0.008 in) These are maximums for both ways you want to be in the middle when you adjust them.
Excellent video. I only adjusted valves on a car once 40 years ago. Had hydraulics in between my CRV. After watching your video got through it pretty well. Replaced leaking cam seal, and also discovered why I was getting oil on my spark plugs. The four rubber cylinder seals got hard and allowed oil to get in and cover the plugs. The timing marks were a little different than yours but figured it out. Also one thing that was really hard was trying to adjust the valves. The threads were really seized and had a hard time moving them with screwdriver. Eventually worked them back and forth and got oil in them to free them up. Car runs good now but wonder when I should adjust them next time. 30,000?
I recommend every 35k
Thank you for this video!!! You just saved my motor😂😂. One of the jam nuts on the rocker backed out completely and was laying inside the head.
oh wow
Youre the man. Looking forward to doing my wifes car this weekend. You have the best vids out of the ones on youtube that ive seen. Very clear and precise
Thank you
I'm a simple man, Phillip pops into my autoplay, I click like.
Thank you! Much love!
Doing this tonight and doing a Seafoam treatment into the intake. :) Thanks for all the helpful videos. You’ve helped me do my power window actuator and now this!
Heck yeah 👍
Can't say how much I appreciate these videos! About to tear my 01 apart thanks to these videos. Great stuff!!
Best of luck!
Update: Phillip, just one more note. I have a 97 CR-V, and the valve lash specs on the original sticker under the hood are intake: 0.15 mm and exhaust: 0.28 mm, both cold. I called my local Honda dealer and the tech said as long as the sticker is the original that came with that truck to use those values. So that's what I'm going to do.
Update: I tried the valve lash specs under the hood, and they probably worked many years ago, but when I set the valves to those specs they chattered like crazy. I did it again using 0.004" on intakes and 0.007" on exhaust, and everything sounds great! Lesson: even if your engine had different specs 25 years ago, they likely won't work now. Use the new specs. The thing that bothers me is I couldn't find any articles TSBs or even forum or blog posts about changing the specs. I'll keep looking.
I looked on 5 different crv hoods at the shop yesterday and all had the specs I provided.
@@hondaresource I would post a pic of my sticker, but RUclips doesn't seem to support image replies. My CR-V sticker is a little different than most I've seen. It was fitted to meet the stricter environmental standards in California, but ended up in Texas where I bought it. I live in south Louisiana. Given the amounts of smog, particulates, and ozone in our air here, I'm glad my truck emits fewer pollutants. I'll email a pic to you from your website.
@TheHondaResource I decided to search for the under-hood emissions stickers and the only difference I found is my sticker has a K-A at the bottom left and all the other stickers I've found have your valve lash specs and a K-F at the bottom left of the sticker. The K-A sticker is applicable only to the new 1997 model year. All the other sticker pics I've found are for other model years.
Here's a possible reason for the clatter... Your comment states that you used inches for one adjustment and mm for the other.
Appreciate you always sharing your insight on CRV's.
Forgive me if you've covered it in the video, but how often do you do this for your daily driver? I intend to set aside 20 minutes and sit down to watch the video once I actually fix some other stuff. Never done a valve adjustment once in 10+ years, been running fine but looking to learn skills to improve my car. One quick google result mentions RD1's would do good every 30k miles. Would you agree?
I would say 40k
Great video, thorough and informative. I check the valve lash before I loosen the nut. If it's within specs, I don't touch it. Also, I use a box wrench and a screw driver instead of the valve adjustment tool.
Good deal
Thanks for the informational video, you were very helpful. Did my daughters 99 crv exhaust valve adjustment today. The P030x codes are not being thrown now. A few of the cams would not adjust within spec. Spec says 0.18 +/- 0.02 mm, and I could not get 0.16mm to fit with the screw all the way out. But considering I backed the screw out several turns each valve, they were WAY too tight. I now have a bit more valve noise than before, which I'm hoping is ok for a car with 230,000 miles.
Just handled that your the goat you saved me money and now it’s running smooth like butter I used OEM parts as well definitely seen a blue head gasket under there disgusting 😂
Glad I could help!
Good tutorial. I now feel prepared to adjust my '99CRV.
Glad it helped
Must have watched this like 10 times. It looks easy enough, like leveling the bed of a 3D printer. But I'm still getting up the nerve to crack open my valve cover. I really hope its the OEM gasket.
You got this dude its honestly really easy i readjusted mine a few days ago i still got a little chatter so im going back at it today but this is a great vid for reference.
Nice! I like the fact that you cover all of the little things. Great tips and an excellent tutorial! SUBSCRIBED!!
Thanks, glad to have you here!
Needed to adjust the valve lash on my son's '99 CRV. With your clear instructions, it was easy. Thanks a lot!
Awesome!
The best tutorial video on YT!!! - THANK YOU
Thank you!
Thank you , i was very intimidated to do this , uour video was extremely helpfull.
Found you via Facebook - howdy! I went ahead and bought a new valve cover gasket with spark plug tube seals and grommets. Also got a can of red hi-temp spray paint for the valve cover, and all the tools. Temp is supposed to be above 70F on Thursday so that's when I'm planning to do this.
Heck yeah man!
@@hondaresource Did it Thursday, got the cover painted. All intakes were loose. All exhausts were a little tight, but the exhaust valve closer to the dist on cylinders 2 and 4 were both really tight. The one on 2 took over a half turn to loosen it up so the feeler gauge would go in, and the one on 4 took over a full turn.I've put close to 100 miles on it since doing the job, no CEL. Before, after clearing codes I couldn't get 5 miles down the road before the CEL came on with P0302 and/or P0304
DUDE! Thank you so much! Very detailed and to the point.
Glad it helped!
Valve lash is the #1 Killer of 1st Gen CRVs. The Exhaust end up burnt through and a new head is needed.
Also kills valve seals, making you think you need a rebuild.
Hi. Thank you for the Video. One Q. Those 12mm jam nut on each cylinder, How hard do you torqu down jam nut? Is there a torque spec? Do you just tighten with your hand by feel? How hard?
great vid,I did the rocker cover gasket today(it's reusable)so when I've time,due to this I think I will tackle the valve's :) cheers!!
Good deal!
Best B20 valve lash video 💪🏼
Thank you!
Thank you for ur great clear and precise instruction. It is very easy to follow along. One of the best.
Thank you, I'm glad you found it helpful
Is a new valve cover gasket needed for this job if my existing one isn’t leaking atm?
Super no bs approach. Thank you.
Hope it helps you out 🤟
Very good video I have a 2001 CRV with 70000 miles and the check engine light came on with a slight missfire this is a big help
Hopefully it gets you fixed up
Anybody out there had any problems aligning the rear end I have replace all the suspension components Goodyear has done it twice they still not can't fix it it wears the tires out fast has anybody had any problems could wheel bearings because of this any advice would be great thank you
GREAT VIDEO. I HAVE OTHER THINGS TO FIX BUT ILL WILL BE USING THIS VIDEO.
I spy a Speedfactory FMIC.
Thanks for the straightforward tutorial - just adjusted these on a CR-V throwing a P1399.
yeah. she's a beast!
You don't need a fancy valve adjusting tool. Just a flat head screwdriver and a box wrench will work just fine. Also don't need to adjust the valves that are already in speck. Just check the valve clearance first with go no go gage.
Yeah, I've been adjusting the valve clearance on my Hondas for decades(the first time was on my '88 Accord) and it was a Godsend when someone explained the "go/no go" method on one of the CRV forums around 25 years ago as it took the guesswork out a very tedious job.
Thanks in advance! Doing mine next week
Great video! Very thorough and concise.
Glad it was helpful!
I need this Man to work on my car 😢
I would if you were local
@@hondaresource I just found you and have been binge watching your videos. I’ve been able to do some maintenance on my 2000 CRV (first time in my life even looking under the hood of a car!). Your videos are wonderfully detailed, but there are some things I just don’t feel confident enough to tackle. I don’t have much faith in any local repair shops. You’re about 6 hours from me, and I’m tempted to take a road trip. My lil ‘AnnaHonda’ is a beast, and I’d have no worries about ending up sitting on the side of the road. 😎
@@hazmania4794 thank you for the kind words!
After we put them all back, I dont understand what we need to do next the take the 19mm out? Do we need to tight it back clockwise after we done #2??
Hope you still check the comment and answer.
I really appreciate your help + videos => all yours videos save my CRV 1999 in many parts
Just take the 19 off, it's fine
Are You turning the crank 180 degree before adjust every cylinder?
Thanks, great info for my kids 98 CRV
Glad it was helpful!
Good video you helped me out on my 2000 crv .
Thank you for the great guide! Got it done smoothly with your help. One last thing, do you have to retorque the crankshaft pully bolt to 130?
Na, you aren't loosening it
@@hondaresource got it! thank you!
Doesn't hurt to pull of PCV and quit it out with carb clearer, just in case someone in the past went long on oil changes. Also first thing to do if see smoking when accelerating after extended idling. And do Valentine's adjustments and PCV BEFORE oil change. Oil after warm up and good test drive including high speed/interstate, dump while oil hot, of course.
I appreciate your videos. Very educational and direct. Thanks dude!👍
Thanks man
I just did mine. This video is really helpful
I'm glad it was useful!
These engines suffer from valve seat recession. This is why the exhaust valve clearance will tighten over time, cause a check engine light and misfire code. If you continue to drive it under this condition, it will eventually burn an exhaust valve and that means expensive repair due to the labor to get to it. So perform the valve adjustment as shown at the recommended intervals, or immediately if you get a CEL and rough idle.
It is possible you run out of adjustment on a rocker screw. If that happens, you can slightly modify the rocker for more clearance. See my video on this.
I have a collection of burnt valves 🤣
I’m trying not to collect any!
Good to know. I just got one and had no idea that you had to adjust the valves and it would toss a code for it. Guess I need to get my scanner and possibly tools out
thanks for the video made lashing the valves td a lot easier
Glad to hear it man!
@@hondaresource yea bro shes running good, just put an intake and made a custom axle back exhaust so i figured i needed to do some maintenance stuff
Just bought a HONDA CRV 99 with 200,000 kms on it yesterday. Thanks for the help! Any quick tips, suggestions or comments are welcome. Thanks alot
They are pretty good rides. Just adjust the valves 🤣
Very straightforward thank you
Great video & Just myself a crv helps alot 👍
Great to hear!
great job.. just be in order when you close the valve cover...it can be leaking oil if the torqued is not correct ...😊😊😊. from Argentina....thank you
I almost done thanks again for you video man
Just bought a 2000 CR-V literally needs everything. Its a 💩📦. Tires are bad. Missing the 4wd parts the differential kinda just hanging there...... like old man balls. Apparently hes been driving around like that says its been fine 🫤. Transmission rev's a little high then shifts. Driver door lock, that hinge to the body is missing a screw so door doesn't shut well and you need to jiggle the key so it unlocks. Headlights center screw mounts are both broken off. Grill isn't broken BUT IT'S THE WRONG COLOR 😮💨Missing the picknic table and minor plastic cover in the rear. but been replaced by a strong piece of wood 🤗 yay lucky day huh. Its one redeeming quality the body straight clean and white. I figure besides the ((tune up)) stuff i should start with transmission ((flush)) and hope for the best. But now after changing the plugs and what not the values definitely need to be adjusted. This guy did absolutely no maintenance besides maybe a oil change. Thanks to him you know have a loyal subscriber. 😵 FML
You will be back here in no time 😅
Good video. I also got rain but at 4 cylinder 😂and still raining.
Yo, Phil! Do you have one with "how to replace timing belt, water pump ect" ? Great videos btw 👍🏽 new subscriber!
I do
6:42 TDC indicators
12:56 camshaft gears rotate 90deg = crankshaft pulley rotating 180 deg(?)
16:04 dab of silicone at corners of gasket applied on lid, instead of head
Nice man. That has helped me an eff-load. I'm planning on doing this REAL dang soon. I just have always wondered about yanking the head parts off of my stuff, but this seems stupid easy. I have the feeler guage, and that's basically the only the must have tool for this other than to advance the pistons, so hopefully it will be a breeze if I don't drop a socket into the head.. 😂
You got this man 🤟
Been having rough idles and power loss. I am going to adjust my valves because I’m sure they’ve never been adjusted
searched to watch how to do this so im not going blind last year when i got my b20b jdm swap done and i gave up but im doing this asap now, done it on my dirt bike so it shouldnt be too hard
You got this man 🤟
I subscribed because your name is Phillip too 💪🏽
NICE VIDEO I SAW U IN THE FB GROUP THANKS AGAIN
Just did the valve lash on my 99 RD1 thanks to this video!! No more clicking at low speed and low rpms!! I now have a kind of off topic question though. When doing this job, I thought I would replace the PCV Valve. Recently I’ve been seeing a lot of videos of Oil Catch Cans and how they help out a lot. Would it be necessary to put one on? The job seems easy but would there be a good benefit to having one? Thank you for this awesome video and thank you for reading this!
I don't see a use for a catch can on a stock motor application. Pcv valve replacement is very simple on these
Excellent video I am assuming the spark plugs were not removed for the valve adjustment please correct me if I am wrong. I drive a 99 Civic I know the procedure is very similar but did your CRV have lifter tick only after the engine warmed up or on warm starts? My Civic engine sounds excellent no ticking from the top of the engine when started in the morning after leaving it off all night. I only notice ticking after the car has been running for a while or on warm starts engine does not sound terrible just hear ticking and the ticking is worse when the AC is off but when the AC is on the ticking is almost completely gone when I listen to the engine with the hood open. I use high mileage synthetic blend oil 5w 30 car runs excellent I am thinking all the car needs is a valve adjustment has a little over 163,000 miles and I almost guarantee you the valve clearances were never adjusted.
You can do it either way. It's easier to rotate with the plugs out
Thank you for this. I subbed because I'm a diy typa guy and just got a rd1 crv.
What are the indicators of needing this done besides the every 30k do it.
I have a slight ticking when cold starting my b20z. It immediately stops after running. 3 seconds of noise then smooth. Thanks in advance
Good job showing how to do this
thank you
Awesome video man you saved me alot of issues!
Glad to help
just curious. I just bought a 98 crv and i love it. Want to use it in the snow as it is awd. I'm replacing valve cover gasket this weekend and debating on doing this. Car runs amazing no issues just leaky valve cover which makes it smell a little like burnt oil well im assuming that is the cause right? Lol, do you recommend doing the adjustment while im at it? never done either adjustment or gasket what do you recommend? Seeing your other vid on valve cover gasket which i will use as guide!
Thank you man.
I would definitely do the valve adjustment.
Amazing video! What is the torque spec for the adjustment nut? I noticed that you just tightened it with the adjustment tool, but I just want to be sure I'm in no danger of over tightening or under tightening. Thanks!
BTW: your method is teaching was beyond phenomenal. I'd be down to be your garage assistant any day. Just subbed !
They don't have to be super tight. I'll have to look up the exact specs
I followed your instructions and was able to get all the valves adjusted to spec. The best takeaway for me was checking the next size up feeler gauge. Great tip. I noted that several of the rockers were sloppy even after adjusting. Is this normal? I still have rattling noise on startup but does quiet right down after warm up. Any ideas?
They should still have a little play in then but I don't really think it should rattle too much
very good videos, I have learned a lot so far. I have a question . we adjusted the valve clearance on a hona cr-v, but nothing can be adjusted on the exhaust side. My question is, what can be done in this case?
Are you saying that there are no lock nuts and adjuster screws on the exhaust valves, but there are on the intake valves? What year and what engine are you working on?
@@nospamheredude5838 már megoldottam , megtaláltam az állító csavarokat . Az alapjárat ingadozás megszűnt !
i will be doing this soon thank you.