How to repair the RED WARNING Brake Light Ford Truck
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- Опубликовано: 13 июл 2024
- See how to permanently fix the red warning brake light on your dash without replacing the instrument cluster. Get real tips to repair the common issue of the emergency brake light warning staying on all the time.
Helpful tools for this job. Actual tools I would recommend buying.
Soldering Iron: amzn.to/2iOFqjR
Screwdrivers: amzn.to/2irR3kx
1/4-Inch Drive Socket Set: amzn.to/2ii4m6q
Magnifying Glass: amzn.to/2irJuKA
Small hook tools: amzn.to/2iOQn5f
Circuit Board Solder amzn.to/2hCfIRY
Desoldering Pump Kit: amzn.to/2oEMqTy
Door Panel Removal Tool:
amzn.to/2MPJqR0 
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Can confirm, this is the fix! I recommend to -everyone- learn how to solder! The skill takes a bit of practice and learning how to select the right soldering iron, but it’s actually not that hard. The work you can to is invaluable!
I would have never been able to do this without you! I'm a government mechanic, you probably saved about $1000 of tax payer dollars for us!
Thanks! Did this today, exactly as shown for my 2007 F-150. I think you just saved me a lot of money in repair work. The light had literally been on for years now, but the shop said they wouldn't pass it for inspection again without fixing this issue.
Nice video. I can't imagine what the first person who figured this out had to go through haha
Thanks for this video, it's the best one I've found yet about this issue - I was able to repair my own cluster fairly easily, although I would recommend that anybody with hands as shaky as mine should have a friend do the actual soldering as it is a very delicate job! One twist with mine was that my speedometer needle did not light up and I couldn't find any info online about this, but when I took it all apart I found that somebody had been there before me and when they glued the needle pieces back together they used too much of a flexible, coloured glue which blocked off a small square window which feeds the light into the needle - removal of the glue from this window solved that problem - use your glue sparingly and use a transparent product like super glue.
I've been trying to get this issue fixed for a long time now, and only ever seen people try to wedge the contractor so the light turned off or they replaced the panel. This is so much more budget friendly. Thanks for the information. I also appreciate a complete overview of all possible issues....not JUST one fix to one potential problem. Very well done.
I'd been putting this off until I found instructions that were understandable and precise. I did discover that my soldering skills are not good, but apparently good enough to make this repair. I popped off three needles, but super-glued them back on. I appreciate you sharing the video.
You are the Man!! That 821 was the problem. After searching through a sea of unproductive videos I found this jewel! Thank you so much!! Liked & subscribed.
You just saved alot of people money and the trouble of having to send their cluster out and wait for it to get fixed. Thank you for sharing the video of your knowledge to help others
I was within days of sending the cluster for repair. Watched this video, made the correction and it has been more than a month without the brake light. Thank you very much.
Just did this repair and it fixed my brake light problem. Thanks for sharing
Well finally someone who understood that just wiggling the connector to make the light go off was not the fix. Also for me re soldering the connector pins didn’t work. Or resoldering the resistors on the same side of the circuit board as the pins. Thank you for pointing the exact location out. One thing I did instead of taking the panel completely apart was to cut away some of the plastic so I could get my iron down on the left side of the 821 resistor. Thanks again.
Your solder repair worked as described- no more red brake light! Two tips: 1) After breaking the first two gauge needles during removal, we switched to using two small pick "hooks" 180 degree apart under the needle to gently pry up. Using a flat pry device as shown places the pressure on the outer part of the needle which is what caused the pieces to separate (thank goodness for superglue). Using hook picks puts the lifting pressure on the center/stud portion and keeps them whole. 2) Trying to avoid putting too much stress on the needle motors I didn't press them down too far (or far enough). Now at night, a little bit of extra light escapes behind the needle base. Not the end of the world when looking at the cluster straight on, but something I'd change if I did the repair again. Thank you for the guidance!
My check engine lights is not showing snd my brake light on
Great easy fix thanks to you. Had to trial - and - error the speedo needle. Drove wit lens off and needle lightly in place. Repositioned as required and reassembled
Thanks so much for this video. I followed the directions you gave and was able to repair it myself. Auto shop was ordering a new part for me. When I saw your video, I put a stop on the order and did it myself. Saved me a bunch of money!
Just did this last night. Perfect fix!!! Be very careful when reinstalling the LCD Odometer gage pins back into the Circuit Board. I was holding the LCD gage just a tad too tight and broke it. Odometer gage still works...the bottom half does. No worried, found replacement on Amazon for $70 (Canadian)...so like $10 U.S. lol
Fixed mine with your detailed instructions...Thanks!
The re- solder fix worked beautifully, thanks so much!!
I knew my concern was the instrument panel but did not know exactly where to focus on the PCB. Thanks for the tip, well done!
I have dealt with this problem for years. That was such an easy fix. Wish I found you earlier! Thanks for sharing!
Worked like a charm, I've been fighting with this for over a year. Thanks!.
You're the man. Soldered the resistor and permanently fixed. My gauges were off a bit afterward. I simply sat the cluster in with the needles barely on and without the lense, connected harnesses and checked the needle position. Shut it off and adjusted as needed. Saved me hundreds. Also replaced the odometer bulb while I was in there. Thank you!
Just soldered the resistor and went for drive . Awesome fixed the intermittent red brake light coming on. Easy straight forward explanation.
Man, 2 years with this issue. This fixed it. Thank You Bro!!!!
I did this repair today and it worked like a champ... Thanks for the info..! ! !
Thanks for the video. I wasn't sure if it was going to work at first but it did. Much appreciated.
Thank you, just confirmed The reason for my brake light being on. After watching this video with the truck running in the brake light on, I tapped the dashboard with my fingers in the approximate location where you showed the problem, the light turned off. Now to repair it. Great job on this video thank you again.
Thanks! You saved me a lot of time trying to figure this out, only took me 30 min to repair.
Just tried it on my 2005 SVT, so far so good. Thanks.
Straight to the point and very informative. Thanks brother
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! Worked perfectly for me. I did pop off one needle like you did, they took more force to remove than I anticipated.
Those dang needles get stuck sometimes, glad that fixed it!
Saved me hundreds. You’re doing the lords work lol
Had to replace the odometer bulb and remembered seeing this somewhere. Its all back in working order again. Thanks for the video.
This fixed my issue!!! Thank you for sharing.
Finally a permanent fix. I did what you said to do and Re-soldered resistor 821 and it fixed the problem. A another tip is to make sure the small pins just below the odometer readout display aligns into the connector when you connect back the circuit board to the cluster. I found out the hard way and scratching my head why the odometer won't come on.. had thought I had broken something until realize the cause. Thanks for sharing this video and helping me fix this nagging problem.
He briefly mentioned that in his video about "wires" that needed to be aligned properly or your odometer won't work right. I did the same thing. Put it all together and the odometer screen was blank. It took a while to get those six pins plugged in properly but I finally got it. It was more difficult to do that than to solder the 821 resistor.
Great video, I ended up blowing 3 of my gearboxes apart while trying to do the repair, but I got them put back together and they still work!
Wow, saved me thank you so much. subscriber now!!
Thank you for the help! You saved me a bunch of money
I was a bit skeptical because I could not move the wires and get the light to go out. This was the last attempt to try and fix. I had replaced the master cylinder sensor, tested the parking break switch and could not check anything else. It worked !!!
Thanks for making this video. It was simple to do once you got all the gauge needles off. That was the hardest part.
Thank you so much this fixed mine. I would also line to add to be careful when reinstalling then pins for the odometer display. If you’re display is not working after this repair check to make sure the six pins are installed correctly into circuit board..
Thanks a lot! Concise and very very helpful.
Thanks for sharing, you are my hero
Awesome info dude thanks! I had one that had the brake light issue, but also the airbag light would turn off (actually had an sir fault) when the connector was wiggled. And it had a dtc for airbag light circuit open stored. I wasn’t sure which component was for the sir light, so I soldered all the surrounding components on the board and it fixed both the brake light, and sir light malfunction.
Awesome advice. Absolutely worked. I looked at the joint over and over with magnification and still did not see any sort of crack or break. Did the repair anyways and it solved my problem. Also this seems to have fixed my TPMS indicator that was coming on randomly as well
Just a little addition. I used a dental scraper to rough up the tiny surface on either side of the resistor. Also used super glue to glue back together the needle indicators and I didn’t wait for the superglue to cure fully before closing the unit up. Ended up with white fingerprints on the inside of my cluster enclosure which I will clean up later. Ever seen Beverly Hills cop II fingerprint scene?
This fixed mine! Thank you!
I bought a solder iron, plastic removal fork, and solder for 30 bucks at autozone. I soldered my board it was the easiest thing ever. I am not a mechanic I was able to have this done in literally 45 minutes to an hour. Thanks for saving me 1100 which the mechanic wanted to put a new one in.
Thank You Sir, it's FINALLY fixed!!! Touched up the suspect resistor with a little bit of solder and Holy Smokes what do you know, problem solved. Even took it down a very bumpy dirt road for a test drive when the indicator would flash like crazy (not a blink). I'd love to send you a case of beer!
Watched another video where some guy touched up the solder joints on the back of the socket connector. Tried that last year sometime, didn't work :(
Was pretty PO'd after that. Have a funny feeling now that his fix never fixed his problem now....who knows???
Glad I gave your "Real Tip" a shot!
Thanks again for you help!
Same here... Worked for me. I did pop one of the smaller needless... super glued it. Suprisingly, my 30 yr. old Weller General Duty Soldering Kit worked, although I really only heated up one of the joints and dropped a fairly large drop in the other. Thanks for sharing!
Great video! Allowed me to not only fix the permanent brake light but also the intermittent dome light on my 2008 f150. Resoldered the 821 and 751.
My ‘04 F150 has the dome light randomly pop on. Are you saying that 751 is the culprit for that as well?
Thank you thank you thank you!!!! You saved my life!!! It worked!
Just did it today and so far everything is working, thank you for the video my local dealer ship wanted 500-1000 dollars they wouldn't tell me an exact price until they got into it. And if you decide to do it have some epoxy or something available I had 3 of the needles come apart just like in the video.
Agree, super glue did the trick. I had two pop off.
Thank you, I knew there was a bad solder joint but this helped me pinpoint the location quickly.
Loved this video. Would also love to see a video of fixing the interior lights intermittently coming on while driving. If I smack the dash they turn off.
Worked for me, Thank you!
just did this and it worked flawlessly.. right on point.. thanks for the video.. ppl once you do all of this make sure you clip the lcd display connector back.. be gentle with it.. it's old plactic.😅
Excellent, worked for me!
Perfect job!! Thank you so much!!! Fix my problem!! Very intelligent
Glad I could help!
Just fixt it and it works. Thanks a lot!!
Been looking for this fix for awhile. Saw others that didn’t work for me. I broke every needle but one and glued them together and waiting for the glue to dry and reinstall them. I’ll add to this when I get the whole cluster back and tested.
Just done the repair and no more red ligth. Thanks for the tip.
Wow, that's a great tip. I'm going to chk mine out today.
Chingon, muchas gracias....
Repair worked well. No more red light. However there was an issue lining up the lcd screen pins...discovered that the lcd can be removed from the front with the plastic peeled back slightly, this made it easier to line up the pins.
YOU ROCK MAN! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
Thank you sir , this worked great, I had done everything on my 05 f150 ....soldered da 821 ...so far so good, had to glue a couple of needles, did break even carefully, besides that, all good
Thanks!
Thank You ! Worked perfect for the brake light!....Other issues, Air bag light will come on or off by banging top of dash and the seat belt light does not illuminate at all....also seat belt chimes with belt on....I'm sure that at least the air bag light and seat belt light are related to the circuit board. Can you point me to the place on the board that may need a solder repair?
Thank you so much . I Had this same problem with my brake lite the day I bought my truck 2 years ago. I kept thinking it was the master cylinder reservoir sensor .Adding solder to the same resistor fixed it. This must be a common problem for F150s.Thanks again for a great video.
Did ever the light came back again?
@@Iceforsure No stayed off unless I engaged ebrake
"Honest Officer, I was only going 55!". Hmm, did I remember to line-up my speedometer needle when I did that brake-light fix?
works perfect on my f150 🎉 thank you
Mine is doing this along with the airbag light flashing and staying on at times as well and my light to the odometer goes on and off sometimes as well. Could this all be due to faulty solders in other areas of the circuit board?
Thanks so much i have 2006 e250 and the break light comes on and beeps the entire time. Its on took 30 mins to fix and been putting up with it for 6 months or longer
Thanks for this, fixed the brake light on my 05 with the base cluster. BUT I found out that it's not necessary to mark the position of the needles. After putting them back on all you have to do is manually move the needle until you find the start/stop points of the motor. Once you do that you can adjust the "dead zone" allowing you to recenter the needles, then after reinstalling the cluster put it into diagnostic mode (or if you have an obd reader that has on demand self tests do a cluster test) and the first thing that happens is a gauge sweep and that will calibrate the needle positions.
What?
big thumbs up. ty. how the heck did you know which resistor it was? by following the traces? microscope?
I had the lights on today all I needed to to is pull and push the emergency break few times!! so this is something to think about! Especially in used cars
This solved my problem on my 2006 F150. Now, how in hell did you narrow this down to that resistor? Thanks!
I watched another video that said to solder the two strips of pins on the opposite side. You familiar with those pins and their purposes?
I also didn't know where on the instrument cluster to repair. After re-soldering both sides of the resistor, the light is finally out. Unfortunately, the speedometer stepper motor came apart while doing the repair and my first attempt at putting it back together resulted in a non-moving speedometer needle. After a quick but tricky disassembly and reassembly, it all tested good. Had to do a live speedometer calibration with the cover off using google navigation on my phone as the correct speed.
Sweet deal... My truck would not pass inspection because of this light.. I just followed your video and fixed it in 30 minutes. Shop wanted to charge $200 to install one. Thank you.. now to find which coil pack is causing a miss under load. 5.4 Triton.
My break light has stayed on for about 5years now. It’s very annoying. I’ve unplugged the break light under the hood and it still stays on. Different mechanics have looked at it and can’t figure it out. I’m very motivated to give this a try! 🤞🏻
Fixed it thanks
Thank you... Worked for me. Not 100% sure that was the solder that broke, only because I resoldered all the terminals.. But worked! Light was driving me nits for over a year!
Which terminals exactly? Can you post a picture
@@Jeff-qc6cc this was so long ago. I wish I could remember. But it was all the contacts shown in the video
The numbered resistors?
Did it and it worked for me
Fixed the brake light thanks!!! However, my lcd screen fell out and broke it trying to force it back in.
Thanks for the helpful video. I have one the both the air bag and parking break are intermittent when pressing the plug in. Any tips on how to fix the air bag light? thanks.
There is a small smt capacitor that might be cracked on the back of the cluster below that plug, that's what the problem was on my 07 ford f150.
how would you fix the odometer (LCD display) mine is blank, so I don't know how many miles that are on the 2005 f-150
Will this also fix the dome light coming on while driving..?
I have 3 2013 F-150's with brake light issues. All sensors good. Ford dealership also scratching their heads. Cannot renew tags here in Tx.
Please help.
i remove the cluster cover and move the switch he shows moving and the light went off. does that means it be ok now or do i still have to sorder the problem is solve?
where can i buy the littler motor for the speedometer on an f150 2007 truck?
Another fix for this also i found is to make sure your screws for the plastic on the back are screwed in all the way, mine were not on my 2008 ford f150 xlt and it kept messing with everything but once I tightened them all the way it worked like brand new
WOW! this totally got rid of my 02 F350 PSD break warning light being on all the time. I took one look at how much time and skill I'd need to do this job, which was succinctly, meticulously laid out in a concise, clear and understandable manner; and I RAN to the drug store to get some of those little round bandages to cover the light; applied one and the problem is resolved.
If this is the light for the emergency brake, why would you need to check the brake fluid? Does the warning light double as a low brake fluid warning also?
I thank you and my customer thanks you. Previously we'd pull the cluster out and send it off to be repaired. Now I can make a little more money fixing it myself and save the customer money and time.
I'm glad I could help!
Same problem for me in Crown Victoria..... will this fix the problem.... cluster is different type
Hey guys just wanted to let you know my e150 has this issue it was e brake switch. Just depress ebrake and look for little gray switch. It can be pushed in by hand. Mine did not appear to be depressed enough to turn off the light.
I have a 2012 F150 with the same issue- the cluster panel is different from this one so I’m not sure what to solder. Help!!
Does that work on a Ford excursion 2002 10 cylinder limited??...
Thanks! This fixed my problem, but after reassembly, I seem to have the same problem with the airbag light. I have a known fault so the light stays on(code 4-9), but it shorts off and on like the brake light did, then the 25 beeps start. Any idea where this joint might be?
I had a problem with the airbag light when the LED that indicates the seat not being occupied blew (the one you see above your radio in the dash. ) It's hard to believe but this triggered the airbag warning. When I replaced the LED the airbag flashing light went away
what could it be if its flashing in a random order? I could have times where it never happens then it will go on and off randomly. I checked my fluid.
Can anyone please tell me if I need to turn all needles back and fourth when putting them back on or just the speedometer needle? I want to do this to fix the annoying issue with the brake light but concerned I will mess up the accuracy of my needle guages.
it is very easy just hit hard left side of dashboard above break light using your left hand it will go