Thanks Brian. Wifeys brake lights been on for a month. Checked the fluid. Fine jiggled the ebrake. Stays on. This happened shortly after replacing pads at all 4 corners. But the ABS light is on too. Another strange occurrence is that the pedal is soft and goes to the floor after starting and hardens up after a couple depressions. Then continues to work fine. Also feeling a bit of wobble in the pedal as I roll to a stop. Checked all hardware, all pads still covered in meat. No overheating at any corner. 2003 grand cherokee loredo 4.0
Superb video! You are a very gifted communicator. My 1989 E34 beeps continuously while driving. The sound stops for a few seconds on pressing the brake pedal and then starts again when I take my foot off the pedal! No one has a solution. All the best.
Just a general compliment. Your so good at showing how things should work and what might be wrong.. Also great at explaining how to resolve your issues. Thank you!
Like Robert said above Don't push the fluid in the line backup. Let it drain through the bleeders. You risk damaging the abs system by doing it the way you are showing
I appreciate you looking out for me Nick. I've heard that before, but in the thousands of brake jobs I've done this way I have a 100% success rate without damaging a single ABS system. Now muffler bearings and blinker-fluid system leaks... not so good! ; )
Good stuff Brian - some scan tools may show a pid for a on-off signal. Seems the more toys on a vehicle requires more toys to fix them. You can never have too many toys. :)
Fun thing that I've found with my Subaru about the brake fluid level: Put in new pads every 4 corner, adjust fluid the way it's exactly at top mark in the reservoir. And then when the warning light comes on for low level, you'll find out that brake pads need replacing soon. That's with STI brembos, guess the caliper pistons pull so much fluid with pads wearing out that happens. I'm thinking the engineers never thought it that way and it's just coincidence.
I believe the brake warning light also comes on with unequal pressure in the divided brake system. If one half of the brake system should fail, develop a leak, the light will come on.
Hi Brian. I am glad I found your video. I spent today doing a radiator flush, new hoses and t''stat on my wife's 2002 Taurus. After I checked for leaks, I dropped it off the jacks my wife took a test drive. Well, we were almost home and she noticed the brake warning indicator light was on intermittently and then stayed on. Of course I had to explain that radiator work would not affect the brakes. The fluid level looked perfect and I was beginning to think the float switch was the issue .. until I saw your video tonight. I set the parking brake after getting the car on the jack stands to work on the cooling system. Maybe a bit too forcefully. I will check the parking brake switch in the morning. Thanks for the lead on the problem. (So, maybe my radiator work did affect the brake system.!!!).
My brake light is an enigma. Brake fluid is full and fresh. Brakes in perfect working condition. Also fresh parking brake cables. Today I swapped out the parking brake switch, and STILL have that annoying brake light on the dash. Any clues what to look for next? Thinking MAYBE the wire going to the switch? Forgot to slap the probes on it while I had the center console out. Any tips on what to check next would be much appreciated.
Thank you so much for this! My 2012 Subaru Impreza had the Brake light come on and off at random times while I was driving. Been that way for 5 months until it finally got bad enough that I decided to take a look at it. As soon as I looked at my master cylinder, I saw that I was low on brake fluid (right on the Min line.) Filled it back up and the light was gone for good.
Ty for the information. I'm pretty sure this is what has happened with my 05 silverado 1500. I let it sit way too long and it's having some issues. Was going to take it to a mechanic last week and the shifter linkage disconnected from the transmission so its been one thing after another
Mu toyota tundra had a plastic plate break out where a push button switch needed to be depressed in the brake pedal arm under the dash. It caused my rear brake Lights to be on all the time so you could not know if I I was braking. The brake lights in th rear were on all the time.
My brake light was on because I had removed the abs light bulb out of cluster on my 03 jeep grand cherokee. However when u remove the abs bulb light it will then cause your brake light lamp to illuminate.
On my older F150, the brake light also comes on when the alternator has failed. Learned that while driving to work a few weeks ago. Of course there are other symptoms present when this happens.
Just keep in mind that some MC's are finicky when it comes to forcing fluid back in them. I have seen MC's ruined because of this. Here's a tip, if you run the risk of snapping the bleeder screw off, loosen the banjo bolt and bleed it from there.
I have this problem on my 04 STi. Its not the hand brake because the brake light illuminates brighter when engaged and the master cylinder is full. Are there any other ways of finding out why its not clearing off the cluster?
I've always been taught to never push the old fluid back up in reverse through the ABS and master cylinder seals. I just have a simple brake caliper spreader tool with a screw/knob and a plate shaped like a brake pad which sits against the caliper and you use the old inner pad to screw/push the piston(s) back in more consistently and evenly instead of c-clamps and pry bars. I always open the bleeder screw, then the piston(s) are much easier to depress (very little effort required) and the old fluid spits out into a drain pan, then you top off the reservoir with fresh fluid (if low add fluid first). Just my .02 But then, what do I know, I'm just the "Village Idiot".
Ok so I have a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer I just bought October 31st Halloween 2022 a little over 2months ago after a month of having the truck it started leaking brake fluid out of the left front tire my brother in law looked at at the brake pads were so worn down it was ridiculous and the caliper was blown! So I bought new brakes, rotors, and brake pads and he put them in it was good for about 2 weeks than about a week ago my car started leaking power steering fluid really bad I tried buying the power steering "Stop leak" fluid let's just say I went thru about 5 bottles in 2 days! It was leaking within 20mins of putting the brake fluid in, I took it to the mechanic because it was becoming really hard to turn the steering wheel and all and was starting to even stall, so the mechanic did a diagnostic on my truck called me an hour later and said I needed a new rack and pinion replacement and also an alignment so I said let's do it, it cost me $1400 I picked it up today all the reservoirs we're filled power steering fluid, brake fluid, everything they topped off to the max but I got in my truck to leave and noticed the red ip brake light was on, I made sure the Ebrake was all the way down and not triggering the red brake light to stay on the Ebrake was all the way down and it is completely filled with power steering fluid, and brake fluid , new rotors, brakes, brake pads, caliper, just got new rack, pinion, and alignment, so why would the red ip brake light be on? I do not understand? Someone please help me I am so stressed I don't understand and don't want to hurt anything on my vehicle by driving it but it's driving fine and nothing should be wrong? Please someone help me🙏🙏
My mom has a 2006 buick rendezvous cxl. When she starts driving it after 1min the beeping chiming noise goes off and will continue the whole time you drive unless you turn it off, also the anti lock, brake light go on, but brakes are not locked obviously... so any ideas?? I've researched these cars have A LOT of issues but I'm trying to fix these issues for her one by one. Thank you
Bummer, the brake lights on the rear of the car ( Torrent ) are lighting as the car goes down the road. step on the brakes a light, they are all on, step off the brake to go when the light turns green they go off and within a 100 feet, sometimes sooner the brake lights come back on and stay on including the third brake light. so on to look for more answers
Hey awesome video! I have a Ford Taurus as well and this just happened to me yesterday! My fluid is fine but that light stays on i haven't checked the plunger you showed in the video yet. But if that is the issue how would i fix it?
Nice work Brian's mobile one. I haven't watched some of your videos in a long time. I hope you're well. Know that I think very highly of you, and your character. Your goodness comes across in your videos. ____________I live in Ohio, and recently had a good vacation cycling up the West Coast of Florida. Jumping from hotel to hotel. _________Happy 2022 to you and your family.
I have a question, when pressing the piston, do I need to remove the master cylinder cap? If I don't remove the master cylinder cap, isn;t there have pressure inside the system?
Hi, Brian ! Will you be getting a better camera this year ? Did Santa leave you one ? I like your presentations but the wobbly image makes me feel like I am on acid..... again after many years of being out out it. Cheers, Gweedo (Gordon).
Well you have fix my problem thank you I was wondering why it was coming on while I was driving and then goes away and it was bcaz I replace the caliber and but never to dot3 on my container to fill it all the way to the safe fill lol
My alternator and brake light came on and after replacing alternator both lights went away on my 2005 Nissan Altima drove me crazy trying to find out why the brake light was on I looked and didn’t find anything wrong
My break lights stays on while driving & parked. I check my lights out side to see if they have came off but there still on. I have a audi a6 08. Can u help me?
I guess my pick up truck has that issue,,, and guess what , the inspection fail this year,, the mechanics tell my wife they ll' fix that problem , going to be around $600 dollars 👿👿
Keep in mind that with disc brakes often times when the fluid is low (no leaks) its a sign that the brake pads on one end or the other could be near the end of their service life, just something to check.
I hope you aren't serious, that you need a video to tell you to check your brake fluid when the light comes on? It is something you should periodically check anyway, before the light ever comes on, so you catch whatever the cause may be, which as another person pointed out, could be the pads nearly gone. However, you'd have to have all 4 pads pretty much worn to metal before the fluid level dropped that low, as the reservoir is designed to have enough fluid in it to handle the pads wearing.
Also to determine (on some cars ) if its your reservoir sensor or e-brake sensor. It should get brighter if you put the e-brake on. If it doesn't get brighter its you e-brake (switch)
I have one to add to your list that happened to me recently working on my Ford Focus 2007 with rear drum brakes. The new brake drums do not come with the tone ring for ABS. learn the hard way I installed the drums without swapping over the tone ring. The dash lite up like a Christmas tree with traction control, ABS and the red brake lamp warning. Code C1235 and C1236, had me puzzled at first but with a little internet search I discovered the magnetic removable tone rings. I hope this helps others.
That's how I do it also very good but I also take the cap off The master cylinder just to make sure that the air escapes because sometimes it can put air in the brake lines not all the time but I have had it do it before I never have after I start taking the Off
When I first got my 1988 C1500 on the road 2 months ago, my parking brake light came on and didn't flash. And now it's been flashing and it's been doing it since last Tuesday.
When ever I do a disc brake job, I cycle the pistons in and out a few times, except I open the bleeder so it also flushes out the old fluid. Cycling the piston in and out a few times seems to help remove any varnish build up that may cause the piston to hang up in the caliper and prematurely wear the new pads.
Helpful! My Windstar threw lights on everything all the time. 20 years, original owner, 60K miles, and the electronics just all started failing. My Grand Caravon just lit the brake and ABS light. Code reader showed "no codes". Fuses all intact. Here we go again.
I've no idea why you think a pry bar having flexibility or some other attribute, makes any difference. However, you're supposed to take the cap off (loosened) when retracting the calipers, and check the fluid level in case it might overflow due to someone topping it off while the prior brake rotors were partially worn so with new pads there is now too much fluid. Now what the heck happened with your video? It ended abruptly as if you lost some footage? Anyway, it seems crazy to me to suggest and link to pry bars for this job. Most people just use a c-clamp, or there are purpose built piston tools that either rotate the piston (on vehicles requiring this) or just 4 X-shaped pieces that rise in height when you turn a bolt and force nut-stubs together to expand them. There is also a spreader like a specialized c-clamp with a much longer screw and jaw width. Any of these seem superior to using two prybars, but of course prybars have other legitimate uses too so I suppose you use what you have, but the prybars seem to be the most fiddly and least precise way to apply uniform pressure.
Alright, how about this. No lights are on when idling at a stop. As soon as the car reaches 5 mph forward or reverse the brake light comes on, the ABS light comes on and the chime and "service brake system" message come on. Then when a stop is achieved, there are again no lights whatsoever. No codes are thrown, just everything at once when the car starts moving and it remains until it stops completely.
Your rear drum brakes have an automatic adjuster that works when you back up fast enough in reverse and step on the brake hard enough. Most people don't do that fast enough or hard enough to cause the adjusters to do their work hence your brake system may detect the maladjustment of the rear brakes. That happened with my vehicle. The solution is to find an empty parking lot, back up quickly (maybe 10 mph) and step on the brake hard. Repeat five times or so and the light will turn off. Worked for me.
Might try this, I reversed and put up handbrake... in a fast motion as I wanted to get car out of the way of the narrow road, then this problem happened
Interesting. I've got a 1990 mazda pickup and had my hand brake engaged backed up 2 feet before I noticed. Now my brake light on dash stays on. Might try this.
had an issue last three month get empty fluid with no evidence of lake so refill again get also empty there's no sign of lake brake light on traction control on
The fluid does go down and brake pads wear. There's a range that the fluid should be in that's okay. If it's empty, you have a leak. Sometimes the leak is into the cab of the car by the pedal or gets burned off in the brake drums if it's a slight leak in a wheel cylinder over time. I've also seen brake hosed with a down loop drip point that drips straight to the ground, but only under heavy braking.
@@briansmobile1 No lake inside or outside of the car hoses all inspected I am afraid it could lead the oil inside the engine or booster valve forced the oil into the engine the JK has only Disks no drums
Would this also cause the ABS light to come on? I notice that when you pushed on the caliper (pushing the pistons back into the caliper) so you put the brake fluid back into the master cylinder, that fluid had to go back through the ABS motor, which could clog up the fine holds in the motor and cause other problems. Don't you need to release the brake lines( loosen the fittings) so that the fluid doesn't take the chance to plug up the motor?
So the plate pushes the plunger and it shows brake. When released the plunger spring pushes plunger back out. That’s exactly what I saw happen in this video. So I’m confused as to why you say the plunger switch failed.
So what if you don't fix this issue will there be severe consequences and quickly or no because it's been a month and I have brake light on and I haven't fixed please respond thanks
Thanks Brian. Wifeys brake lights been on for a month. Checked the fluid. Fine jiggled the ebrake. Stays on. This happened shortly after replacing pads at all 4 corners. But the ABS light is on too. Another strange occurrence is that the pedal is soft and goes to the floor after starting and hardens up after a couple depressions. Then continues to work fine. Also feeling a bit of wobble in the pedal as I roll to a stop. Checked all hardware, all pads still covered in meat. No overheating at any corner.
2003 grand cherokee loredo 4.0
Superb video! You are a very gifted communicator.
My 1989 E34 beeps continuously while driving. The sound
stops for a few seconds on pressing the brake pedal and then starts again when
I take my foot off the pedal! No one has a solution. All the best.
Just a general compliment.
Your so good at showing how things should work and what might be wrong..
Also great at explaining how to resolve your issues.
Thank you!
Thanks Aaron- I'm flattered
Like Robert said above
Don't push the fluid in the line backup. Let it drain through the bleeders. You risk damaging the abs system by doing it the way you are showing
I appreciate you looking out for me Nick. I've heard that before, but in the thousands of brake jobs I've done this way I have a 100% success rate without damaging a single ABS system. Now muffler bearings and blinker-fluid system leaks... not so good! ; )
Great! I'm going out to do this now. Light was on when I replaced my breaks. And still on. Thanks. Didn't understand why. Thank you.
Good stuff Brian - some scan tools may show a pid for a on-off signal. Seems the more toys on a vehicle requires more toys to fix them. You can never have too many toys. :)
Fun thing that I've found with my Subaru about the brake fluid level: Put in new pads every 4 corner, adjust fluid the way it's exactly at top mark in the reservoir. And then when the warning light comes on for low level, you'll find out that brake pads need replacing soon. That's with STI brembos, guess the caliper pistons pull so much fluid with pads wearing out that happens. I'm thinking the engineers never thought it that way and it's just coincidence.
I believe the brake warning light also comes on with unequal pressure in the divided brake system. If one half of the brake system should fail, develop a leak, the light will come on.
Hi Brian. I am glad I found your video. I spent today doing a radiator flush, new hoses and t''stat on my wife's 2002 Taurus. After I checked for leaks, I dropped it off the jacks my wife took a test drive. Well, we were almost home and she noticed the brake warning indicator light was on intermittently and then stayed on. Of course I had to explain that radiator work would not affect the brakes. The fluid level looked perfect and I was beginning to think the float switch was the issue .. until I saw your video tonight. I set the parking brake after getting the car on the jack stands to work on the cooling system. Maybe a bit too forcefully. I will check the parking brake switch in the morning. Thanks for the lead on the problem. (So, maybe my radiator work did affect the brake system.!!!).
My brake light is an enigma. Brake fluid is full and fresh. Brakes in perfect working condition. Also fresh parking brake cables.
Today I swapped out the parking brake switch, and STILL have that annoying brake light on the dash. Any clues what to look for next?
Thinking MAYBE the wire going to the switch? Forgot to slap the probes on it while I had the center console out. Any tips on what to check next would be much appreciated.
Thank you so much for this! My 2012 Subaru Impreza had the Brake light come on and off at random times while I was driving. Been that way for 5 months until it finally got bad enough that I decided to take a look at it. As soon as I looked at my master cylinder, I saw that I was low on brake fluid (right on the Min line.) Filled it back up and the light was gone for good.
I have a fancy sensor in my brake fluid container, but it doesn't seem to work when I'm low.
Ty for the information. I'm pretty sure this is what has happened with my 05 silverado 1500. I let it sit way too long and it's having some issues. Was going to take it to a mechanic last week and the shifter linkage disconnected from the transmission so its been one thing after another
That's not the problem. Switch has been changed new pads and calipers. There is some other problem. I think it's in the emergency brake handle.
Mu toyota tundra had a plastic plate break out where a push button switch needed to be depressed in the brake pedal arm under the dash. It caused my rear brake Lights to be on all the time so you could not know if I I was braking. The brake lights in th rear were on all the time.
My brake light was on because I had removed the abs light bulb out of cluster on my 03 jeep grand cherokee. However when u remove the abs bulb light it will then cause your brake light lamp to illuminate.
thanks man i will cheke that on my expeditiom my light for the brake is on
On my older F150, the brake light also comes on when the alternator has failed. Learned that while driving to work a few weeks ago. Of course there are other symptoms present when this happens.
Just keep in mind that some MC's are finicky when it comes to forcing fluid back in them. I have seen MC's ruined because of this. Here's a tip, if you run the risk of snapping the bleeder screw off, loosen the banjo bolt and bleed it from there.
That still doesn't bleed out actual caliper completely... only hose and portion of caliper..need fix the actual problem. No disrespect just a tip
I had a brake light and I didn’t realize my handbrake was pulled out. Thank you for that clue. It worked for me. 👏👏👏👏👏
You beginner driver..
Enock Opoku bruh!
I have this problem on my 04 STi. Its not the hand brake because the brake light illuminates brighter when engaged and the master cylinder is full. Are there any other ways of finding out why its not clearing off the cluster?
of course if fails on a ford torus, everything fails on those
Speaking of fail... nice spelling :)
The focus is worse
Best thing to fix a Ford Taurus is to jack up radiator cap and drive another car underneath it.
Except thats a subaru. I would know I drive the exact same car.
I've always been taught to never push the old fluid back up in reverse through the ABS and master cylinder seals. I just have a simple brake caliper spreader tool with a screw/knob and a plate shaped like a brake pad which sits against the caliper and you use the old inner pad to screw/push the piston(s) back in more consistently and evenly instead of c-clamps and pry bars. I always open the bleeder screw, then the piston(s) are much easier to depress (very little effort required) and the old fluid spits out into a drain pan, then you top off the reservoir with fresh fluid (if low add fluid first). Just my .02 But then, what do I know, I'm just the "Village Idiot".
Yeah and then you have to bleed the system because you let air in it.
@@tomhenderson2430 not if you don't let the MC bottom out......right?
i have same issue with my 1991 k5 blazer, which is the brake light always ON inside the dash ? any advise ? oil brake level is good
Thanks alot....exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for your effort.
Ok so I have a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer I just bought October 31st Halloween 2022 a little over 2months ago after a month of having the truck it started leaking brake fluid out of the left front tire my brother in law looked at at the brake pads were so worn down it was ridiculous and the caliper was blown! So I bought new brakes, rotors, and brake pads and he put them in it was good for about 2 weeks than about a week ago my car started leaking power steering fluid really bad I tried buying the power steering "Stop leak" fluid let's just say I went thru about 5 bottles in 2 days! It was leaking within 20mins of putting the brake fluid in, I took it to the mechanic because it was becoming really hard to turn the steering wheel and all and was starting to even stall, so the mechanic did a diagnostic on my truck called me an hour later and said I needed a new rack and pinion replacement and also an alignment so I said let's do it, it cost me $1400 I picked it up today all the reservoirs we're filled power steering fluid, brake fluid, everything they topped off to the max but I got in my truck to leave and noticed the red ip brake light was on, I made sure the Ebrake was all the way down and not triggering the red brake light to stay on the Ebrake was all the way down and it is completely filled with power steering fluid, and brake fluid , new rotors, brakes, brake pads, caliper, just got new rack, pinion, and alignment, so why would the red ip brake light be on? I do not understand? Someone please help me I am so stressed I don't understand and don't want to hurt anything on my vehicle by driving it but it's driving fine and nothing should be wrong? Please someone help me🙏🙏
Is it possible to get a brake light that comes on because of abs light?
Be careful with calipers. They hold tremendous force if lose. Can become projectile or smash fingers
+Kacper Litwin thanks for the info
THANK YOU VERY MUCH SIR.
Problem solved
Very helpful mate.
Npr diesel amd the switch works. It also turns on and off the lights. Cannot find any problems with it.
My mom has a 2006 buick rendezvous cxl. When she starts driving it after 1min the beeping chiming noise goes off and will continue the whole time you drive unless you turn it off, also the anti lock, brake light go on, but brakes are not locked obviously... so any ideas?? I've researched these cars have A LOT of issues but I'm trying to fix these issues for her one by one. Thank you
You're the man dude! Thanks👌👍
What a great video. Thank you.
Thank you for posting this video.
Bummer, the brake lights on the rear of the car ( Torrent ) are lighting as the car goes down the road. step on the brakes a light, they are all on, step off the brake to go when the light turns green they go off and within a 100 feet, sometimes sooner the brake lights come back on and stay on including the third brake light. so on to look for more answers
Brake light bulb fluid low
Hey awesome video!
I have a Ford Taurus as well and this just happened to me yesterday! My fluid is fine but that light stays on i haven't checked the plunger you showed in the video yet. But if that is the issue how would i fix it?
Hey Damien, did you figure it out?
My brake indicator light is on and my car won't move ..I just changed caliper and brakes and rotors
Nice work Brian's mobile one. I haven't watched some of your videos in a long time. I hope you're well. Know that I think very highly of you, and your character. Your goodness comes across in your videos. ____________I live in Ohio, and recently had a good vacation cycling up the West Coast of Florida. Jumping from hotel to hotel. _________Happy 2022 to you and your family.
I have a question, when pressing the piston, do I need to remove the master cylinder cap? If I don't remove the master cylinder cap, isn;t there have pressure inside the system?
@My Daddy yes always remove the master cylinder cap when manually pushing the pistons back in
Hi, Brian !
Will you be getting a better camera this year ? Did Santa leave you one ?
I like your presentations but the wobbly image makes me feel like I am on acid..... again after many years of being out out it. Cheers, Gweedo (Gordon).
Super GOD BLESS YOU 3:39 BROTHER
Well you have fix my problem thank you I was wondering why it was coming on while I was driving and then goes away and it was bcaz I replace the caliber and but never to dot3 on my container to fill it all the way to the safe fill lol
While driving and stop at red signal break light notification ON and OFF after ~8 mins. Is this same issues?
Good to know - thanks.
I changed my rear pads on my is 300 Lexus and now when I engage the parking brake the indicator light on the dash doesn't go on anymore any ideas?
Where is the parking brake switch? Near the rear pads?
Good tips.
Thanks
Good, informative video!
So... what fixed your light?
Great Info bro. Thank you.
Thank you!
My alternator and brake light came on and after replacing alternator both lights went away on my 2005 Nissan Altima drove me crazy trying to find out why the brake light was on I looked and didn’t find anything wrong
can't wait for the tractor!!!
I just use a big C clamp and twist until caliper is back
Thanks ,helpful
Brake light goes on mine when I Stop At a light or stop then goes off when I drive
I may have air in my lines?????
So the brake light being on isn’t a sign that you need new brakes?
good video!, thank you for sharing!
My break lights stays on while driving & parked. I check my lights out side to see if they have came off but there still on. I have a audi a6 08. Can u help me?
Same problem
why didnt you use a c-clamp?
Anyone else in here had a subscription to Autoviewtechpoint? I guess RUclips shut his channel down , curious if he started a new channel.
I guess my pick up truck has that issue,,, and guess what , the inspection fail this year,, the mechanics tell my wife they ll' fix that problem , going to be around $600 dollars 👿👿
My brake light is on and I changed the brake switch, it has brake fluid, and my E brake is not on. Any suggestions???
Me to how ca. I fix it
I have an intermitten break abs light off and on, ever of that? 99 ram 1500
how do i short my abs system to get the codes?
hahaha the editing
Depressed plunger? Sounds shitty.
lol. Reminds me of the robot on Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy.
My 2008 toyota tacoma the brakes warning light comes on an off what can b
check fluid
What do you keep all those caps for?
Thank you, you saved me from a heart attack. Brake fluid was low.
Keep in mind that with disc brakes often times when the fluid is low (no leaks) its a sign that the brake pads on one end or the other could be near the end of their service life, just something to check.
I hope you aren't serious, that you need a video to tell you to check your brake fluid when the light comes on? It is something you should periodically check anyway, before the light ever comes on, so you catch whatever the cause may be, which as another person pointed out, could be the pads nearly gone. However, you'd have to have all 4 pads pretty much worn to metal before the fluid level dropped that low, as the reservoir is designed to have enough fluid in it to handle the pads wearing.
Badly made video with little useful information
Awesome! Straight to the point. No nonsense rambling of words.
take light bulb off.easy
Facts
Thanks, easy fix brake fluid reservoir was low
Also to determine (on some cars ) if its your reservoir sensor or e-brake sensor. It should get brighter if you put the e-brake on. If it doesn't get brighter its you e-brake (switch)
Really ?
I have one to add to your list that happened to me recently working on my Ford Focus 2007 with rear drum brakes. The new brake drums do not come with the tone ring for ABS. learn the hard way I installed the drums without swapping over the tone ring. The dash lite up like a Christmas tree with traction control, ABS and the red brake lamp warning. Code C1235 and C1236, had me puzzled at first but with a little internet search I discovered the magnetic removable tone rings. I hope this helps others.
I just bought a 98 4RUNNER with the brake light on. I added a few ounces of DOT3 fluid and problem solved.
Thanks!
That's how I do it also very good but I also take the cap off The master cylinder just to make sure that the air escapes because sometimes it can put air in the brake lines not all the time but I have had it do it before I never have after I start taking the Off
When I first got my 1988 C1500 on the road 2 months ago, my parking brake light came on and didn't flash. And now it's been flashing and it's been doing it since last Tuesday.
There are more reasons for brake light on. I found 3 more on many different makes
I love your vids Brian, keep up the good work buddie
Very helpful. Wiggled the sensor on the brake fluid and it doesn't come on anymore. Thank you very much!
Thank you very much Brian! I have the same problem in a Ford Taurus 2003, not anymore.
When ever I do a disc brake job, I cycle the pistons in and out a few times, except I open the bleeder so it also flushes out the old fluid. Cycling the piston in and out a few times seems to help remove any varnish build up that may cause the piston to hang up in the caliper and prematurely wear the new pads.
Good information!
Helpful! My Windstar threw lights on everything all the time. 20 years, original owner, 60K miles, and the electronics just all started failing. My Grand Caravon just lit the brake and ABS light. Code reader showed "no codes". Fuses all intact. Here we go again.
I've no idea why you think a pry bar having flexibility or some other attribute, makes any difference. However, you're supposed to take the cap off (loosened) when retracting the calipers, and check the fluid level in case it might overflow due to someone topping it off while the prior brake rotors were partially worn so with new pads there is now too much fluid.
Now what the heck happened with your video? It ended abruptly as if you lost some footage?
Anyway, it seems crazy to me to suggest and link to pry bars for this job. Most people just use a c-clamp, or there are purpose built piston tools that either rotate the piston (on vehicles requiring this) or just 4 X-shaped pieces that rise in height when you turn a bolt and force nut-stubs together to expand them. There is also a spreader like a specialized c-clamp with a much longer screw and jaw width. Any of these seem superior to using two prybars, but of course prybars have other legitimate uses too so I suppose you use what you have, but the prybars seem to be the most fiddly and least precise way to apply uniform pressure.
Alright, how about this. No lights are on when idling at a stop. As soon as the car reaches 5 mph forward or reverse the brake light comes on, the ABS light comes on and the chime and "service brake system" message come on. Then when a stop is achieved, there are again no lights whatsoever. No codes are thrown, just everything at once when the car starts moving and it remains until it stops completely.
This is excellent information. BTW you’ve had an excellent channel for many years. I don’t know how many but congratulations on a long run.
Your rear drum brakes have an automatic adjuster that works when you back up fast enough in reverse and step on the brake hard enough. Most people don't do that fast enough or hard enough to cause the adjusters to do their work hence your brake system may detect the maladjustment of the rear brakes. That happened with my vehicle. The solution is to find an empty parking lot, back up quickly (maybe 10 mph) and step on the brake hard. Repeat five times or so and the light will turn off. Worked for me.
Might try this, I reversed and put up handbrake... in a fast motion as I wanted to get car out of the way of the narrow road, then this problem happened
Will definitely try this
Interesting. I've got a 1990 mazda pickup and had my hand brake engaged backed up 2 feet before I noticed. Now my brake light on dash stays on. Might try this.
had an issue last three month get empty fluid with no evidence of lake so refill again get also empty there's no sign of lake brake light on traction control on
The fluid does go down and brake pads wear. There's a range that the fluid should be in that's okay. If it's empty, you have a leak. Sometimes the leak is into the cab of the car by the pedal or gets burned off in the brake drums if it's a slight leak in a wheel cylinder over time. I've also seen brake hosed with a down loop drip point that drips straight to the ground, but only under heavy braking.
@@briansmobile1 No lake inside or outside of the car hoses all inspected I am afraid it could lead the oil inside the engine or booster valve forced the oil into the engine the JK has only Disks no drums
OK, I went to wiggle the sensor on the master cylinder, and the wire was completely out there! Thanks For the video!!
Would this also cause the ABS light to come on?
I notice that when you pushed on the caliper (pushing the pistons back into the caliper) so you put the brake fluid back into the master cylinder, that fluid had to go back through the ABS motor, which could clog up the fine holds in the motor and cause other problems. Don't you need to release the brake lines( loosen the fittings) so that the fluid doesn't take the chance to plug up the motor?
What usually makes the abs light come on is a speed sensor on the wheel bearings in the front.
So the plate pushes the plunger and it shows brake. When released the plunger spring pushes plunger back out. That’s exactly what I saw happen in this video. So I’m confused as to why you say the plunger switch failed.
Good Informative video! I have a 05 Sebring that has the Brake Warning Light on. Cant figure out which of the two problems it is.
It could also be a bad circuit board on the cluster. I've seen this on a Ford Focus and a Ford F-150
So what if you don't fix this issue will there be severe consequences and quickly or no because it's been a month and I have brake light on and I haven't fixed please respond thanks
No worries
Emergency brake handle 🤦♀️ (you saved me bro only thing I forgot to check)
thanks a lot , that was my case exactly, its been solved.
Nice details and explanations. Thank you
2009 Chevy uplander brake light how to fix it