How to Fix an F-150 E-Brake
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- Here's some Amazon links for the tools used in this video for your convenience.
Needle Nose Vise Grips→www.amazon.com/...
3/8" Cordless Impact 20V→www.amazon.com/...
Brake Adjusting Spoon→www.amazon.com/...
Wobble Extensions→www.amazon.com/...
How to Fix an F-150 E-Brake
You win the f-150 e-brake tutorial video award. Congratulations.
Clear, concise, humor and no BS music. Brilliant !
I'm 75 thank goodness I found you. I just bought a 2006 ford expedition with 4 wheel disk brakes. I am familiar with front disk brakes and drum parking break but did not know how the parking break would work on 4 wheel disk brakes. everybody just said oh you don't have to take the wheel off to adjust them. they did not explain how the parking break worked. but finally I found you. THANK YOU!!!!!
Glad I could help!
Thanks Brian! Great video. It's funny how folks like myself, who enjoy learning mechanic work can sit back and be entertained by instructional info. Sign of a good instructor.
I rate this a 9.5 out of 10.
I put the top lug nut on first as the wheel naturally balances with the top inward, and when I push the bottom in, the fulcrum of the hub causes the wheel's top to come off of the stud [at around 50% of the time].
Also, the end title screen needs to be spell checked.
A gold medal performance none the less.
Note the upper return spring is ABOVE the lever mechanism intially at 4:19.
Brian installs it correctly BELOW the lever mechanism at 12:05.
Working on a 2001 F150 right now with exactly the same brakes, and both the upper return springs are BELOW the lever mechanism when I took them apart.
Stay gold.
Good eye! I think I mention that at some point in the video, but it's been a while. They didn't work so well installed above.
Been watching you videos for a few months just because all of the repair stuff interests me. Love your videos! When I found out my E-brake wasn't working at all over the weekend I remembered this video! Followed along with you while I was fixing mine, great tutorial very easy to follow. Saved me a $120 diagnostic fee + part and labor from Ford. Many thanks for the help love your videos! Keep up the good work!
A one minute long onslaught of *"thats what she said"* opportunities starting @ 1:46
Hey Brian. I was searching for a video on how to unstick a stuck ebrake for a '94 F150, and came across this video. Even though it wasn't exactly what I was looking for, I found myself watching the whole thing and learning quite a bit. Just wanted to let you know you would make a great teacher/instructor; great descriptor with a great sense of humor. Looking forward to watching more videos!
Great job. Detailed and right on. Just changed mine, the truck is new to me but 16 years old. No lining on e-brakes and this caused problems getting rotor off. Used the pounding method, heat, PB Blaster, and heat gun. Finally got off. Thanks
really well done video, thank you. I was feeling right at home with your presentation, this park brake is nothing more than what used to be the common shoe brake system on all makes of cars before discs came into popularity. This park brake differs in that no hydraulic cylinder actuates the pivoting shoes but in place of it is the mechanical cable which applies the needed force.
Thanks for the video. Was given a beaten, abused and neglected 2001 and had to replace the passenger side brake cable and did an overhaul of the brake system. The screaming eagle and counter clockwise adjuster tip helped greatly.
Your calmness helps my calmness, and confidence. Calm is the best way to approach things, in my opinion. Thanks
I saw the levers as eagles too🤯
Those eagles are nearly invincible. Even the Very corrosion seized ones eventually worked apart and cleaned up on the wire wheel.
Extremely accessible video for someone just getting into repairs. Thank you for the detail shots of each part. I'll be sure to follow you for future repair projects.
You helped me fix the E-brake on my Town Car! The hinged plates - cams were rusted together, not allowing the proper brake adjustment. Bless you!
Good video! Veeery common problem for this generation F150. I'd also like to add that the new park brake pivot is updated if you do so wish to replace it. The new piece I believe is zinc coated and is supposed to help prolong service life before it seizes again. Repair or replace, MUST use grease as Brian has mentioned.
Thanks for the video Brian, VERY informative! I'm glad we have folks like you to who don't mind utilizing technology to help their fellow man!
Brian,
thanks for showing how to do this.
Before I saw this video, I had help replacing the shoe's, the springs, ect. and everything seemed to work OK until I did the parking brake test...it did not hold the truck in place.
After watching how to do it here in the video, I realized why my parking brake does not hold. Your attention to detail on the 'eagle', and attaching the cable properly is what my problems are. I have to go back in and make sure I have those 2 eagle plates in properly, and most of all attach the cable all the way on.
Thanks again for the great attention to detail!
R/
Matt
Thanks for putting this video out there! I was trying to help a buddy do this same job. He couldn’t get the too hats back on. We watched your video and realized he had switched one part of the “screaming eagle” to the wrong sides of the truck.
EXELLENT VIDEO BRIAN, I HAVE A F150 MYSELF WITH THE SAME PROBLEM AND I WAS ABLE TO FIX IT THANKS TO YOUR VIDEO. IT WAS A PAIN TO TAKE THE ROTOR OFF BUT MANAGE TO GET IT RIGHT. THANKS
+kevin villegas You're welcome Kevin! Way to go buddy!
kevin villegas pop the cap off the back of the dust cover and use a flat screwdriver to back off the star wheel a bit and the rotor will slide off. Use this hole to adjust your shoes every couple oil changes as well. Keep the tire on and rotate forward til the shoes rub a bit.
Andrew, some thoughts.
Getting a rotor off, front or rear, is difficult when rust builds up between the rotor's center locating hole and the axle's centering flange because of the close tolerance of the 'Hub-Centric' design that keeps the rotor concentric to the axle shaft. That's why Brian had to beat the snot out of the rotor to break the rust loose between the rotor and axle interface.
Brian's demo and explanation was spot-on.
Yes you do have to make sure the shoes aren't tight against the drum portion of the rotor but that's mostly a problem with drum-brake designs where the inner edge of the shoes get caught by the un-worn ridge left at the edge of the drum that isn't in contact with the shoes during braking.
The hardest part of a brake job has always been getting the rotor or drum broken loose from the axle or hub. Once it's loose, you may have to de-adjust the shoes to finish removing the drum or drum-in-hat rotor.
Use of PB-Blaster and a 3-Pound Sledge are almost mandatory when removing drums or rotors.
I always apply Never-Seez goop to matting surfaces when reassembling parts that can rust except lug nuts/studs because they will loosen up while driving if not torqued to spec when they are clean and dry.
I.E. NO LUBRICATION, just wire brush clean and then hit the studs with Brake-Clean else you can have loose lug nuts after a few hundred miles.
Hope this helps some DIYers.
After replacing the rotors and shoes this weekend found my parking brake on the drivers side all messed up. I removed all of it and will buy new parts to replace it. This video was great to help me with reassembly.
2008 F150 here. The rear passenger side was actually frozen in the locked position. It was causing some odd vibrations! After I found your video, I think I'm going to take this project on myself!
Thanks Brian! I stopped in the Ford Dealer in Logan, UT yesterday and they quoted me a price of $380.00 to do both the left and right rear. I couldn't afford it and I watched your video this morning and from the time I started to the time I finished it took me 2 hrs and was EASY! I probably overcleaned everything while I had it apart, but now my emergency brake works good as new.....and I saved $400 for two hours of my time!
Oh, my truck is a 2005 Super Crew 4x4.
Way to go Scott!!! How does it feel to be worth $200 an hour?
The best tutorial on the matter. I would like to see a video on installing the lever kit that have extra sets of levers , I bought them but couldn't install them , because I couldn't figure out what the extra pieces on the top of that they are too tight , I dont think they would work
the wheel on the end of the bolt used to be called "star". you turn the "star" one direction or the other to expand or contract the "bolt" to tighten the shoe against the hub or make it looser against the hub
Me and a Friend was sitting here watching this video and you taught us both a new trick. Thank You on the tip of grinding the bott where it is damage and the nut will slipe right bye the bad spot. Will used that tip till my dying day
Welcome Dwight!
thanks for taking the time and showing how to replace parking brakes.
Welcome Robert!
i had a weird rattle when hitting a bump in the road and a occasional grinding sound when i pulled my rotor drum off i found all of the parts gone except for 2 rusty brake shoes . your video will help me figure out what parts to buy and where to put them.
I'm retired now but the company I worked for made brake cleaner. this video was excellent.
Just wanted to say Thank You for taking the time to provide all the info and tips in this video. I have 2004 F150 RWD and I too had the issue where the cable had come right off the lever. Mine had obviously been dragging for a while as a good portion of the friction material had come loose from the backing! Anyway, thanks again for helping us all out!
Thanks so much for this video , I have a 2008 f150 4.2liter , e brakes always have problems. I got it fixed by following your instructions, I can't thank you enough
Hello Brian. I have the 09 F150 and the pedal goes to the floor without engaging the parking brakes. I will now, thanks to your video know how to tackle the problem. I have replaced disc brake pads before on other vehicles I owned but for whatever reason was somewhat intimidated by drum brakes. Your video is very informative and contrary to what other posters have mentioned is not too long for
Brian, I am surprised to see that you never use swivel impact sockets....I don't know how you can work without them, my hat is off to you sir.
Sweet, now I know what pieces disintegrated and fell off while driving my 02 a couple years back. I even used it, being a 5 speed. The exposed cable doesn't help extend usage, that's for sure. Great video as always!
this video is a lifesaver...let my f150 sit and e brake rusted up solid....those 2 springs that go to backing plate are a pain...they couldnt use the round type like everyone else.
Thank you, Brian. This IS the E-brake video that I've been looking for.
Excellent, Excellent fudging video, exactly what I needed to see. I busted knuckles for two hours until I ran out of sunlight, didn't finish, and I was doing it all the wrong and hard way, thanks for the helpful hints... I need a garage, skeeters get rough at dusk
David Drumwright Thanks, and good luck Dave!
12:45 you have the spring underneath the two pcs you cleanup with the wire wheel. If you go back and look when you took the spring off it was on top.
I noticed that too.... mine have fallen apart after doing that repair several times... lts a common complaint on forums. New brake hardware the spring is not the same shape.
If anyone has a real fix let me know
Thanks for the highly informative video. My e-brake shoes were completely gone and they took the adjuster screw with them (left side). Replaced all and lubed it with disk brake grease where appropriate. The rotor came off after very few hammer encouragements and will be replaced.
Hi, I have an old 96 740 BMW that effectively has the same setup. I have never been able to get mine to work properly.Despite adjusting and cleaning and sanding the shoes. The brake holds fantastically in damp weather after the car is left for a few days however once it dries out the brake will not even hold the car in "drive". Any ideas? Love your videos...
Thanks for the video. Had that identical problem with the e-brake on my 2005 f150. All the tips were real handy.
You're welcome Raymond! Good to see you- don't be a stranger.
Great video. Felt closer to my Ford after watching. I couldn't stop watching and it can't stop at all. I'm off to the big hammer store.
Thank you, this has helped a lot, I’m planning on buying a manual Ford F-150 2006 as my first truck, but it needs e-brake cables. I might be able to do the repairs myself now, thanks.
I appreciate the video. Very clear and easy to follow. Made my brake jobs go smooth. Thanks much.
...a job like this. I'd rather see ALL the steps as opposed to a shorter video with steps missing. Carry on sir!!!! Well done. Many Thanks""
Excellent video! Very detailed and lots of "pro tips" asking the way. I take it this is a common problem since there's a video about her on RUclips. Thanks for the help!
Best Mechanical DYI video i have ever seen! thanks a lot
You are a very good instructor. Thanks. I tried getting this fixed and 2 separate mechanics told me to do it myself. They could somehow tell I was capable but I could not have done it so easily this without your help. Thanks!
It would be very helpful if the year of the vehicle was included in the description.
Thank you, Have the same issue on my 2004 F-150. Going out to fix it right now.
Brian - thanks very much. Very helpful and clear tutorial - have always been hesitant to change E-brake, but will give it a shot.
brian watching this video gave me an idea to really test PB blaster to other pen fluids!.
fine some seized rotors, DONT try to smack them off, spary the inner bit like you showed here, not around the stud's/holes just center hub and let it soak for an hour come back do it again then leave it all night, remove the rotors and see how far the blaster or other fluid has worked its way up the hub face!
im for sure doing this test! im curious on which ones accully WORK
Well done Brian - I will be doing this job on my ford as soon as the winter ends. Never left anything out as usual very thorough. Thanks
You bet Steve- best of luck!
The Hub Grappler kit has a Drum puller in it. Makes getting the Drum off Ten times easier.
Well done, Brian! The only thing that I would have done extra was put just a bit of never sieze where the "Eagles" mouth connected to the brake cable. A small amount of never seize on the adjuster threads would work too. Great tips on how not to screw up. How about some more impressions next time?
Thanks for the video, I like coming on here to get my moves down before I go in. I was about to go do my vehicle inspection today and decided to adjust the parking brake aaaaand there was no adjuster. So, new hats, calipers, shoes, hardware. It will be perfect. Again, I appreciate the video, this is childs play but time is money and I need more of both, so getting the moves down is imperative.
Thank you for the video , i had a sticking brake that would only squeak when the truck was cold! i made some adjustments and im good to go!
Very informative and entertaining. I enjoyed the monster jokes. You covered multi topics related to adjusting the parking brake from the "eagle wings pivot" to the adjustment screw and springs. Very descriptive throughout all the steps. Look forward to using your other videos as necessary.
the most interesting man in the world has nothing on you bud, and your not pushing mexican beer. always enjoy your videos.
lol I'm flattered- or at least I'm trying to be. Just to see how it feels.
Dude ... clear, concise, understandable
Dewalt 12 v impact. Worth it all day long. It is the smallest most compact 3/8 drive they make. The companion work light light is a must
Now that's how a diy video should be made.
Brian,that was a terrific video,and I will add to you are a phenomenal teacher!
Thanks my park brakes work now! Also realized my pass. side cable is in need of replacement.
I think you do a great job explaining things,,, and your having fun too...
Keep up the good job.
Bunch of good info---especially when you start out knowing zero! Will tackle this after changing out spark plugs on my 3v Triton. Will check to see if you have a video on that. Have done it a couple of times. Shouldn't be so nerve-racking but after the first one being a nightmare and $3000 down the tubes...it still makes me super nervous.
Thanks for making things look doable to a novice like me. Great instruction with detail. Jesus bless.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent instructional Video !
I have an '08 F-150XL 2WD with exactly the same issue.
I especially liked your comment at the end, where it really should be called a "Parking"-brake assy, since in a real "E"mergency, forward incline, -these things are useless. :>
LoL, the E-brake / Parking brake - the most unused and useless parts of any vehicle.
For anyone replacing the parking brake shoes and all hardware, those pins are a pain to hold in place when you are doing this by yourself. I ended up inserting the pin and then inserting a wooden dowel in the backing plate recess and clamping the other end of the dowel to the axle bracket. That way the pin could not drop out. It took me a lot of swearing to finally figure it out and after that it was a breeze!
Excellent, yes. The 2012 F150 I have has this problem, but they've made a couple of design changes. First, that spring around the cable from the housing end to the end of the cable is a bit tougher - makes getting the cable off the lever part really difficult. The 'wing' part of the lever assembly is now two plates, apparently welded together, with the 'eagle head' part in between them. And it rusts just like the one shown here- only more securely, it seems. It got stuck pretty close to the 'applied' position, so even adjusting the star wheel didn't give the shoes much clearance - getting the top hat off was a b...h. I'm out of brake cleaner so this will have to be finished tomorrow.
Thanks, I'll be working on a 2013 F150 ebrake presses tight nothing happens. I'm sure it will be a Pain in Arse!
How did you get that cable spring to let the lever go. I have tried everything.
@@kathybond9489 It's been a long time... I think it was just sheer muscle, pulling on the cable. I must have put the right amount of never-seize on, as I haven't had to re-do that job, and the e-brake still works properly. I put PowerStop Z36 pads and rotors on in 2019 - had a hassle with parts missing from the kit I purchased on-line. Suffice it to say AutoAnything is not on my list of approved suppliers.
@@jamesvanderpoel9956 Thanks. The levers were stuck and made it even worse to remove from cable. You have to open the levers to have room to move it out backing plate also.
Extremely informative. I wish I would have watched first! Ha.
I appreciate the breaking down/beginners . Easy to understand. Thanks
Nice vidio not to nick pick but i always put alittle white grease on the backing plate shoe tabs and the caliper bolts on the shaft part before you slide them thru the rubber boots very informative thanks
24:17 Awesome! ROFL! Thx for this Brian. Been sitting on worn out e-brake for a year and a half but now I need to replace rear rotors and this will enable the whole ball of wax in one shot.
I might even tackle drum brakes after watching your video! Thank you!
Welcome Rob- great to see you!
Man, I replaced pads and rotors and looked at my parking brake hardware...crazy rust everywhere. I never use the parking brake for this reason. Minnesota sucks for rust. Hardest rotor to ever come off as well. Leaving the parking brake alone for now. In Minnesota, you either use the parking brake all the time or don't use it at all.
Thanks for the upload. As a novice, I really learned a lot and it gave me the confidence to take on this job. If it wasn't for guys like you taking the time to do this, this job might be out of reach for some. I did it and then decided to even make my own You Tube video about it too to hopefully help others try this! Thanks :)
Thanks for your videos. A lot of the tips you show in vehicle specific videos are helpful on any vehicle.
You're welcome Zane! I've often thought of chopping up segments into "quick tip" videos for Wednesdays.
Super. Master teacher. Excellent. Funny too and entertaining. Even, as a bonus. Well done! Professor SB, Jet Master TechTrnr
You put the top spring in upside down. Nice video though. Thank you for this.
Great Video! ...Appeared the top spring reinstall did no match location prior to removal. Ctr spring wire was above lever prior and under after which could cause binding...Also springs were badly corroded and should consider replacement......
Thanks Brian for your informative and entertaining video. You mentioned the low light and time constraints in setting up more light. I clicked like and subscribed but more light would have helped my confidence in tearing this apart and putting it back together.
Killer video Brian thanks for the tips and links as well for the tools you used. Saved my day, very grateful!
There is a slot in the back you can use to loosen the adjuster arm. Then is comes off easy.
I have never seen those types of brakes...Cool!
I wasted a lot of time watching about 10 crappy videos. This is the one I needed, thanks! (Kind of ironic this was the oldest one I watched as well😶)
One of the best vids I have been able to find. Good job
Its a digital world, take a picture. Thanks for the video. Something I need to do, again.
Thank you for taking the time out to make such an informative video! I found that my 2005 F-150 at both wheels the parking brake line is just hanging there disconnected. I will now go through and use what I learned from you to get things in working order. I want to know if this will cause my brake light to be illuminated ? Thanks again.
Brian , Love your technique & your occasional Humor , I am an old Mechanic , on the older stuff & the simple New stuff , Ha Ha !!
I wish I had had good videos to watch when I was younger , it would have saved me a bunch of mistakes , Thank You for taking time to help out some of us old dummies , lol Arnold in Oklahoma .
Thanks for posting this, I think I will tackle this job tomorrow. Great work.
I do believe that this was the best video to help out the do-it yourself people.... Thanks a lot for the great know how & step by step video...
You're welcome Richard- thanks for subscribing!
I had to buy a whole new set. Eventually got it apart out of curiosity. Had to get it crispy hot then it bent because i had weakened it so much.
I post links to your video on other videos where they're explaining the same thing. It's to tell them hey there's this guy who explains it right. 😛
The video instruction and camera work were both excellent. Just bought a 1995 F 150. Will there be any difference from the newer truck in this video?
Thanks for showing that adjusting plug. Great video
I lost it when he got tongue twisted then said “I tought I taw a putty tat” 😂
Top-hat rotor-drum. What a mess...another one of Ford's "better ideas". Normally you can hit a stuck brake drum with a smaller hammer but hit it many times at a place that will cause a 'ring' such as a bell would do. The harmonic vibration will loosen it. Anyhow, THANKS for doing the vids. You so SUCH a good job of showing and explaining. Ur awesome!
you covered it all . great job . any critics on here are probably to dumb to know what the tire is !
🎉thank you for A CLEAR UNDERSTANDING,GREAT VIDEO!
Nice, now i know what to check, possibly this weekend i'll be able to attempt this procedure :D
Thanks for the video, I liked the Top Hat vocabulary lesson.
Hey Brian! Just wanted say Thank You for this AWESOME DETAILED video. Helped me a lot. God Bless!