The actual purpose for them is to install the rods that the shift forks ride on, unfortunately the material the plugs were made from didn't hold up over time.
I’ll let you know how mine goes. Thanks kindly for your documentation. Quality behavior right here. I was gonna cut my floor to access this thing. Imagine my surprise.
Do you have any experience with this same transmission stuck in 3rd gear? I believe I need to replace the 3-4 fork to solve the problem. any expertise would be appreciated. I have spoken to some guys at local shops on the phone but never got a full read on what is happening internally.
Awesome video, thank you very much. I'm having this issue. I have difficulty sometimes getting it into 1st and 2nd without first putting into 3rd. And 3rd tends to grind for just a sec when up shifting. I tell all this to ask if there's anything else that you l, or anyone reading this (ty for taking the time to) that know of anything else I should replace while I have that top open.
I'm not sure that there is much that can be replaced from the top that would cure those issues. One thing you should check is that the clutch is disengaging all or the way, Check the pedal box and see if it is worn out and causing a lot of slop in the clutch rod. That will make shifting into gear a real pain. I had to rebuild the one on this truck, and I also need to do it on my current truck.
I used lucas in mine as well, also added a little 75w90 gear oil and finished with synthetic atf - shifter operates very smoothly now. Do you think a guy could wiggle that top piece out by removing only the shifter boot as opposed to ripping out the seat etc ? I have leaking plugs also, one wonders why they put rubber stoppers in those holes to begin with
It is possible without removing the seat, but then your fighting with the carpet and there is less room to work. I pulled the seat just out of preference.
Did you have to reseal the mating surfaces from the cover to the top of the trans with silicone or a gasket? Or does it just bolt back on with no issue? Great video
yeah mine leaks also I filled it up about maybe 2 months ago and my dad says you need that fixed make sure its not low on fluid i might try this seal fix thing if its not that causing it then I got no clue there is a bunch of nasty greasy shit on the side and getting worse the further you get to the floor board the bottem is clean but wet with trany fluid
Thanks for the great video. I am about to tear into my 93 F150 to replace a worn or broken shift fork. I plan on replacing the plugs as well. In the early 90's I replaced a myriad of ranger and bronco transmissions due to these stupid plugs. They are one of Ford's biggest fails ever. I can't begin to imagine the cost to consumers from that lame design. Anyway, thanks for the visual walkthrough. It will save me time exploring.
whats the part number for those freeze plugs? ive read around that the dorman 555-108 will work. theyre .6377 of an inch.. just barely over 5/8ths. Much appreciated!
Interesting video. I have a ~132k M5OD-R2 that's going into my 5.0 swap Ranger. I'll make sure to do this before I get it in. It's been sitting on a junkyard storage shelf for quite a while(receipt says 124 months lmao). I'll try running some Lucas in in to get it to shift nice. Junkyard stored it drained and dry with plugs in place, but it goes into gear and the output and input shafts all turn properly.
Technically that's true, but on this 200k+ mile trans the slightly thicker oil with the addition of the Lucas additive really helped it shift a lot smoother. The Lucas site states that the "transmission fix can be used in light duty manual transmissions to increase shifting ease and transmission life". It worked well for me.
Yes Steve is correct, as I have used the Lucas trans fix in 3 of my m5od's over the years, and it does help immensely. I had noises that sounded really bad, I'm pretty sure it was bearing related, and the Lucas product solved my noise problem and help make the shifts smoother. The only thing different that I did, was I used the specified ATF with the Lucas product, but to each their own. I'm going with my personal proven formula that I mentioned in my newest m5od that I bought recently to replace the god awful automatic in my Explorer. I don't reckon anyone HAS to use the Lucas product in their manual transmission, but I'm a believer in the stuff, as opposed to just straight ATF.
@@SteveStoltz ended up doing it works perfect used a grinder to shape a peice of galvanized degreased it with brake clean and put high pressure jb weld on it
I'm doing this next week but pennzoil synchromesh works the best I've used that Lucas it did t help my tranny drained and flushed 3xs with diff fluids the pennzoil worked the best just my experience
If you don't have carpet installed you may be able to, but it would probably be more of a pain than just taking the seat out. Its a lot easier to be able to hop up in the cab and work without any obstructions.
Wanted to follow up as I did this over the weekend. Decided to try it with the seat in and it was no problem at all. Just pulled the carpet up, folded it back over onto the seat and had plenty of room to work. Ironically enough, the hardest part of the whole process was getting the 4 bolts that hold the plastic shifter base to the floor back in. Everything else went smoothly. Thanks again for the video, it was very helpful!
No gasket for that thing?
There is an Orange grooved into the cover.
@@SteveStoltz thanks!
why do these holes even exist? doesn't even seem to serve a purpose except to leak...
The actual purpose for them is to install the rods that the shift forks ride on, unfortunately the material the plugs were made from didn't hold up over time.
It looks as though this plugs could be replaced without taking the top cover off if using new replacement plugs?
@@mannypvd2296 Yeah I would imagine, in hind site I’m thinking the old plugs with silicone would suffice as well.
You are only supposed to use ATF. Gear oils will kill these transmissions
Mason Chappell the oil I used was 30w synthetic motor oil, it will help make a 200k+ mile tranny shift smoother.
I’ll let you know how mine goes. Thanks kindly for your documentation. Quality behavior right here. I was gonna cut my floor to access this thing. Imagine my surprise.
Do you have any experience with this same transmission stuck in 3rd gear? I believe I need to replace the 3-4 fork to solve the problem. any expertise would be appreciated. I have spoken to some guys at local shops on the phone but never got a full read on what is happening internally.
Awesome video, thank you very much. I'm having this issue. I have difficulty sometimes getting it into 1st and 2nd without first putting into 3rd. And 3rd tends to grind for just a sec when up shifting. I tell all this to ask if there's anything else that you l, or anyone reading this (ty for taking the time to) that know of anything else I should replace while I have that top open.
I'm not sure that there is much that can be replaced from the top that would cure those issues. One thing you should check is that the clutch is disengaging all or the way, Check the pedal box and see if it is worn out and causing a lot of slop in the clutch rod. That will make shifting into gear a real pain. I had to rebuild the one on this truck, and I also need to do it on my current truck.
@@SteveStoltz Again thank you. I'll look into this. Have a good one!
I used lucas in mine as well, also added a little 75w90 gear oil and finished with synthetic atf - shifter operates very smoothly now. Do you think a guy could wiggle that top piece out by removing only the shifter boot as opposed to ripping out the seat etc ? I have leaking plugs also, one wonders why they put rubber stoppers in those holes to begin with
It is possible without removing the seat, but then your fighting with the carpet and there is less room to work. I pulled the seat just out of preference.
I have this exact problem thanks for the video I’m about to start it next week before the winter kicks off
Gm synromesh works a lot better. Gears shift a lot smoother.
Did you use Only this product? Or use it as an additive? If it was an additive, how much?
Tap them with NPT threads and thread plugs in them. Longer fix.
That’s a great idea 👍🏻
Did you have to reseal the mating surfaces from the cover to the top of the trans with silicone or a gasket? Or does it just bolt back on with no issue? Great video
I didn't have to seal it with anything, there is a rubber gasket recessed into the cover. Thanks for watching.
doesn't that trans use Mercon V? mine says to use that.
Technically yes, but this one was pretty worn so I used the thicker 30w with some additive.
Big help, thanks
yeah mine leaks also I filled it up about maybe 2 months ago and my dad says you need that fixed make sure its not low on fluid i might try this seal fix thing if its not that causing it then I got no clue there is a bunch of nasty greasy shit on the side and getting worse the further you get to the floor board the bottem is clean but wet with trany fluid
The deteriorated plugs are likely the problem. Thanks for watching.
Thanks, it helped my neighbor a lot.
Thanks for the great video. I am about to tear into my 93 F150 to replace a worn or broken shift fork. I plan on replacing the plugs as well. In the early 90's I replaced a myriad of ranger and bronco transmissions due to these stupid plugs. They are one of Ford's biggest fails ever. I can't begin to imagine the cost to consumers from that lame design. Anyway, thanks for the visual walkthrough. It will save me time exploring.
Thanks! I'm glad the video helps.
whats the part number for those freeze plugs? ive read around that the dorman 555-108 will work. theyre .6377 of an inch.. just barely over 5/8ths.
Much appreciated!
It’s been so long I have no idea, it sounds like you’re on the right track though.
thank you anyway, steve!
@@SteveStoltz also! i completely forgot to ask! did you use just straight 30w oil or could i use a multiviscosity oil? thanks!
@@catatonic_wrenching I used 5w 30 syntehtic, Id only use it if the transmission has a lot of miles/wear though.
Interesting video. I have a ~132k M5OD-R2 that's going into my 5.0 swap Ranger. I'll make sure to do this before I get it in. It's been sitting on a junkyard storage shelf for quite a while(receipt says 124 months lmao). I'll try running some Lucas in in to get it to shift nice. Junkyard stored it drained and dry with plugs in place, but it goes into gear and the output and input shafts all turn properly.
Definitely easier out of the truck
TY for the video, very helpful. BTW did you put engine oil in the transmission?
binthrdonthat yep 30 weight synthetic, it particularly helps smooth out the shifting on high mileage tranny’s.
Yeah I was thinking the same thing I've never head of anyone doing that. Not to say it's wrong I've just personally never heard of anyone doing that.
Thanks for posting this I am going to have to do that with my 93 F150
Mercon V is the only fluid that should be going in that transmission. and that Lucas is meant for automatic transmissions.
Technically that's true, but on this 200k+ mile trans the slightly thicker oil with the addition of the Lucas additive really helped it shift a lot smoother. The Lucas site states that the "transmission fix can be used in light duty manual transmissions to increase shifting ease and transmission life". It worked well for me.
Yes Steve is correct, as I have used the Lucas trans fix in 3 of my m5od's over the years, and it does help immensely. I had noises that sounded really bad, I'm pretty sure it was bearing related, and the Lucas product solved my noise problem and help make the shifts smoother. The only thing different that I did, was I used the specified ATF with the Lucas product, but to each their own. I'm going with my personal proven formula that I mentioned in my newest m5od that I bought recently to replace the god awful automatic in my Explorer. I don't reckon anyone HAS to use the Lucas product in their manual transmission, but I'm a believer in the stuff, as opposed to just straight ATF.
So is Mercon.
30W motor oil in an M5OD? Mine takes Mercon VI ATF.
Murry's Fallout Silent Cinema spec is ATF, but when they start to get old and sloppy the slightly thicker 30w helps them operate a little smoother.
Did you get a new gasket for the top? This was very helpful. My 93 leaks big time for this exact reason.
No I didn't need to replace the gasket. I'm glad it helped.
👍
Does the m5r2 have these plugs?
I believe so.
Would jb welding a peice of sheet metal across the holes cause any issues or get in the way for future work?
it would just need to be removed before being able to replace the forks or related, as would the freeze plugs.
@@SteveStoltz ended up doing it works perfect used a grinder to shape a peice of galvanized degreased it with brake clean and put high pressure jb weld on it
this was extremely helpful just did this fix and not dripping a drop anymore
I'm doing this next week but pennzoil synchromesh works the best I've used that Lucas it did t help my tranny drained and flushed 3xs with diff fluids the pennzoil worked the best just my experience
Thanks for posting this. I am going to be tackling this on my 94 F150 soon. Do you think it can be done with the seat in?
If you don't have carpet installed you may be able to, but it would probably be more of a pain than just taking the seat out. Its a lot easier to be able to hop up in the cab and work without any obstructions.
OK, thanks for getting back to me.
Wanted to follow up as I did this over the weekend. Decided to try it with the seat in and it was no problem at all. Just pulled the carpet up, folded it back over onto the seat and had plenty of room to work. Ironically enough, the hardest part of the whole process was getting the 4 bolts that hold the plastic shifter base to the floor back in. Everything else went smoothly. Thanks again for the video, it was very helpful!
Well access panel is off. Gotta go get the seals. The undercarriage of my truck looks like someone murdered a transmission 😆
Mine did too at the time, at least it wont rust lol
Thanks for this! Very helpful!
Good video