I have a f150 with one of these transmissions and I find that it will actually grind 3rd gear, doesn’t reject it or anything, just while going into 3rd it grinds for a split second occasionally, it’s also notchy feeling after driving for awhile, other than that it’s been great. My brother has a f150 with the same trans and his will occasionally grind 3rd a split second when rev match down shifting where as mine is only on up shift.
Retired transmission rebuilder, every single M50D that would come into the shop had burnt up gears (input gear ,counter gear) from leaking rubber plugs on shifter housing. we would stock gear sets, the metal replacement plugs came in the rebuild bearing kit, built a lot of these back in the early 2000s
Good evening Gents, I have a 1980 Bronco Ranger XLT, 331 cu in small block 10.2:1 compression, aluminum heads, street cam, headers, 3.73 LSD front/rear, NP208F t case, tranny is a NP435, granny low, no overdrive, im probably around 375 horse/torque at flywheel or maybe a bit more, can an M5OD-R2 handle that?
Sounds like what happened to my ranger a month after picking it dumped fluid on a long drive before it grenaded on the highway. I just hope the case isnt damaged because it has been a pain trying to find one used.
Thank you! Where do I get all the spare parts from? Ideally.. I know there are many suppliers who could provide all that stuff, but the price range is high. Which of them would you recommend? I have a 2,9 Litre V6 and the primary drive- as well as the counter shaft are broken. Which bearings should be considered as best option? Which manufacturer(s)? Best Regards
I put some links in the video description for some of the stuff. You have to be careful ordering input shaft and gears because there are lots of different versions.
this mightve just saved my life, mines had a leak for a little and started to pick up in speed today and i think the freeze plugs are the issue because i just replaced my shift bushings like a week ago
Awesome! Thats how I started in the driveway with hardly any tools a Haynes or Chilton manual and a whole lot of determination. Sometimes just no other options LOL.
I have a couple pennies with some gasket maker where the freeze plugs are and they've been good for over a 1,000 miles. Not a permanent fix, but it'll get you there.
Thanks for the info! I think i'm in a little over my head on this project. My '91 M5OD Bronco would pour oil after shutting off the engine. Now it wont leak a drop while idling in the driveway but will leave a trail of oil if i drive it around the block. I did valve cover gaskets and oil pan. Oil leaks over the rear main inspection plate, near the back of the oil pan... Any idea what the heck i need to do to fix it up?
I have a 2008 ford fusion and it sticks in reverse sometimes 1,3 and 5 won't engage. I believe that this was a automatic swap to manual from previous owner. I think it's got a Mazda TRANSMISSION in it. 1. What kind of TRANSMISSION is in there or how do I tell. 2. Is this a linkage issue or something else, like what? Please and thankyou!
What do I do if I’m missing the interlock pins in my M50D manual ford transmission? I never had reverse lights, and when I dug into my transmission to swap out a bad fork, I realized that there was no interlock pin, and I believe somebody might’ve been in here before me. No, I’m looking for an interlock pin set.
Does a failing slave cylinder cause difficulty put the trans into gear? Specifically, I've been having an issue with 1, 2 and, now, starting to have problem with reverse too (grinding).
@@saneauto Damn, was afraid of that. Sucks for me. Time to take the Bronco in for $$$ service where trans has to be dropped. Why Ford! Thanks for the reply.
My 5 speed m5r1 transmission in my fird ranger i br driving it and when Coasting 45/50mph. It jerks back n forth like there slack somewhere. Would it be cross member causing it to have slack .
I think I am struggling getting the clutch fully bled. I can drive it around but it can be a bit sticky in first gear. I am sure the thing is going out by now but I need to get this thing to ride for a while longer while I save up the money to fix it.
@@Adam-rt1lc I ran a whole bottle of fluid and flushed it. With the little plastic top on the bleeder screw and pump a few times, lock it down, get under the truck, crack it light after it's flushed, and keep pumping and cracking, closing, pump, pin and crack until I finally have the best feeling clutch since I have owned the truck. 7 years and 225k miles. 😁
My wifes Mazda Protege manual transmission got stuck in gear as she was turning around and was on an incline. I got it out by rocking the vehicle and in normal deriving conditions, it does fine. It's only when she is on an incline and stops on that incline. It will not shift out of gear. Any clues or thoughts from anyone? On a flat surface, it will shift in and out of all gears with no issue.
I would stop driving it till I fixed that. The metal from the damaged parts is circulating in the fluid and can damage other parts. I always replace all the bearings and blocker rings in addition to the damaged parts and address the weak points I mentioned in this video while I have the transmission apart. amzn.to/3rcfZ49
I have 1996 mazda b2300 manual transmission wont go forward or reverse also starts in gear without clutch engaged im stuck truck rans perfect never any indication of anything wrong prior
Theres a Good chance you might just have a bad clutch. I always replace the slave & master cylinder while I have the trans out for a clutch job. If it does turn out to be just a clutch job, you might want to consider addressing the weak points mentioned in this video while the transmission is out during the clutch job.
Your probably right. If they all started doing it at the same time or nearly the same time, then yes, because it may not be shoving the outer synchro ring all the way onto the gear teeth. Continuing to drive it that way could damage the synchro assembly and the gears. amzn.to/3PE71q9 Also the shifter rebuild kit is cheap and can be installed from the top without removing the transmission. Then if it doesnt fix it then it already has gear & or synchro damage, and it cost ya less than $70 to find out. If it does fix it WooHoo great job! Hillbilly tip: Id check &/or top of the fluid to the proper level while the shifter is out because the open shifter hole is an easy target to pour the fluid in.
Took it for a test drive, heard loud bearing noises in the higher gears, actually wouldn't go into any gear for a minute, I guess its time for a new one. @@saneauto
Use a white zip tie end, stick in the fill hole (curved side down). If it comes out red, you're good to go. If not, fill until the fill hole starts pouring out.
Seriously great video thank you for making
Thanks for the tips
I have a f150 with one of these transmissions and I find that it will actually grind 3rd gear, doesn’t reject it or anything, just while going into 3rd it grinds for a split second occasionally, it’s also notchy feeling after driving for awhile, other than that it’s been great.
My brother has a f150 with the same trans and his will occasionally grind 3rd a split second when rev match down shifting where as mine is only on up shift.
great video man! thanks
Retired transmission rebuilder, every single M50D that would come into the shop had burnt up gears (input gear ,counter gear) from leaking rubber plugs on shifter housing. we would stock gear sets, the metal replacement plugs came in the rebuild bearing kit, built a lot of these back in the early 2000s
Yep. Sounds like the M50D's I remember too. What part of the country were you building in?
@@saneauto Tucson, Arizona lots of trucks
Good evening Gents, I have a 1980 Bronco Ranger XLT, 331 cu in small block 10.2:1 compression, aluminum heads, street cam, headers, 3.73 LSD front/rear, NP208F t case, tranny is a NP435, granny low, no overdrive, im probably around 375 horse/torque at flywheel or maybe a bit more, can an M5OD-R2 handle that?
Sounds like what happened to my ranger a month after picking it dumped fluid on a long drive before it grenaded on the highway. I just hope the case isnt damaged because it has been a pain trying to find one used.
I need my m5 R2 4 * 4 5 speed manual repaired and I cannot find parts
such useful information mate
*always a full view🤓Au💯left a like👍*
Thank you
Thank you!
Where do I get all the spare parts from? Ideally..
I know there are many suppliers who could provide all that stuff, but the price range is high. Which of them would you recommend? I have a 2,9 Litre V6 and the primary drive- as well as the counter shaft are broken. Which bearings should be considered as best option? Which manufacturer(s)?
Best Regards
Good morning, do you have a link to the 3 plugs?
Thank you very much I'm just about to drop one out of a 2011 and I'm going to get back online and order all the parts and change it all on the
I put some links in the video description for some of the stuff. You have to be careful ordering input shaft and gears because there are lots of different versions.
Great info, not something for the inexperienced for sure. You're a master of your Craft, always incredible content.
Thank you Dennis
this mightve just saved my life, mines had a leak for a little and started to pick up in speed today and i think the freeze plugs are the issue because i just replaced my shift bushings like a week ago
Yep running low of fluid will ruin one quickly. It always feels great to save one when ya can. I'm glad you're taking good care of your truck.
How hard is it to replace the output speed gear in one of these transmissions
So I'm trying to take one off a 4.2 v6 and trying to make a 1987 5.0 work with it... any advice
What about back up lights come on in reverse,but also 5th?
just pulled one today saturday may 21 2023 in my driveway using only a haynes manual as guidance
Awesome! Thats how I started in the driveway with hardly any tools a Haynes or Chilton manual and a whole lot of determination. Sometimes just no other options LOL.
I have a couple pennies with some gasket maker where the freeze plugs are and they've been good for over a 1,000 miles. Not a permanent fix, but it'll get you there.
Thanks for the info! I think i'm in a little over my head on this project. My '91 M5OD Bronco would pour oil after shutting off the engine. Now it wont leak a drop while idling in the driveway but will leave a trail of oil if i drive it around the block. I did valve cover gaskets and oil pan. Oil leaks over the rear main inspection plate, near the back of the oil pan... Any idea what the heck i need to do to fix it up?
Shift rail plug probably. Tranny oil only coming out while I’m motion is one of the main symptoms
I have a 2008 ford fusion and it sticks in reverse sometimes 1,3 and 5 won't engage. I believe that this was a automatic swap to manual from previous owner. I think it's got a Mazda TRANSMISSION in it. 1. What kind of TRANSMISSION is in there or how do I tell. 2. Is this a linkage issue or something else, like what? Please and thankyou!
What do I do if I’m missing the interlock pins in my M50D manual ford transmission? I never had reverse lights, and when I dug into my transmission to swap out a bad fork, I realized that there was no interlock pin, and I believe somebody might’ve been in here before me. No, I’m looking for an interlock pin set.
Can you recommend a replacement fluid? Ive heard ac delco synchromesh is good. 88 f150 4x4.
Try Royal Purple Synchromax. Its meant for manuals that use ATF. I tried it and it helped a bit with cold temp shifting and quieter worn synchros.
Where are you located and do you take on work ie tranny rebuild?
How much do you charge to rebuild one of these?
can anyone tell me what the difference is between 1994 and a 1995 2.3 ranger transmission
Could you just tighten the freeze plug to fix the leak or is it more desirable to just replace
The OEM plugs are rubber. They get hard and shrink. That's when they start leaking. The replacement freeze plugs last longer.
I got an 86 ford ranger with a 2.9L v6, the 5 speed Mitsubishi trans went out on it and I was wondering if a mazda manual trans will bolt up to it.
It should. I had one on my 4x4 92 ranger with the 2.3
@@aarona.4420 how’s the 2.3 with 4x4?
Does a failing slave cylinder cause difficulty put the trans into gear? Specifically, I've been having an issue with 1, 2 and, now, starting to have problem with reverse too (grinding).
Yes because it cant release the clutch all the way.
@@saneauto Damn, was afraid of that. Sucks for me. Time to take the Bronco in for $$$ service where trans has to be dropped. Why Ford! Thanks for the reply.
@@G8GTJav Yeah, Fords decision to put the the slave cylinder inside the bellhousing is very frustrating.
My 5 speed m5r1 transmission in my fird ranger i br driving it and when Coasting 45/50mph. It jerks back n forth like there slack somewhere. Would it be cross member causing it to have slack .
You're bogging the trans, give it a little gas and the sound goes away
how do these shift , and last behind a decent v8 ? ive got one to put in my f150. im in australia these are so rare to find in a 4wd setup
Just use the proper trans, these are bellhousing specific, and can barely handle the small engines they get
@@blackjackal2156 ??
question about the front input shaft retianer. do you sue RTV? i know ther eis 2 seals. THANKS
Yes I use the black silicone high temperature rtv
Yes I use the black silicone high temperature rtv
Right on I ended up using anaerobic
I think I am struggling getting the clutch fully bled. I can drive it around but it can be a bit sticky in first gear. I am sure the thing is going out by now but I need to get this thing to ride for a while longer while I save up the money to fix it.
If the clutch is sticking try floating the gears
@@Adam-rt1lc I ran a whole bottle of fluid and flushed it. With the little plastic top on the bleeder screw and pump a few times, lock it down, get under the truck, crack it light after it's flushed, and keep pumping and cracking, closing, pump, pin and crack until I finally have the best feeling clutch since I have owned the truck. 7 years and 225k miles. 😁
Kit part number or SIZE of those freeze plugs??
I put a link to them in the video description.
My wifes Mazda Protege manual transmission got stuck in gear as she was turning around and was on an incline. I got it out by rocking the vehicle and in normal deriving conditions, it does fine. It's only when she is on an incline and stops on that incline. It will not shift out of gear. Any clues or thoughts from anyone? On a flat surface, it will shift in and out of all gears with no issue.
Check shifter bushings
My 4th is gone in my transmission if I’m driving it grinds but if I’m sitting still and put it in 4th it’s fine. Does that mean 4th is gone
I would stop driving it till I fixed that. The metal from the damaged parts is circulating in the fluid and can damage other parts. I always replace all the bearings and blocker rings in addition to the damaged parts and address the weak points I mentioned in this video while I have the transmission apart. amzn.to/3rcfZ49
FYI the link above states on 4-1-2024 Currently unavailable BTW do you have the kit # for the metal freeze plugs ???? Or the EXACT size.
I have 1996 mazda b2300 manual transmission wont go forward or reverse also starts in gear without clutch engaged im stuck truck rans perfect never any indication of anything wrong prior
Theres a Good chance you might just have a bad clutch. I always replace the slave & master cylinder while I have the trans out for a clutch job. If it does turn out to be just a clutch job, you might want to consider addressing the weak points mentioned in this video while the transmission is out during the clutch job.
5th gear won't go in at all, even with clutch engaged, all other gears work flawlessly, my blocker rings are new, so is my shifter. M50D
Is this dude ok? He sounds like he is struggling to breathe.
Yes! I have Asthma & other problems.
Regarding the shifter error, will a bad shifter also cause it to pop out of 1st 2nd & 3rd?
Your probably right. If they all started doing it at the same time or nearly the same time, then yes, because it may not be shoving the outer synchro ring all the way onto the gear teeth. Continuing to drive it that way could damage the synchro assembly and the gears. amzn.to/3PE71q9 Also the shifter rebuild kit is cheap and can be installed from the top without removing the transmission. Then if it doesnt fix it then it already has gear & or synchro damage, and it cost ya less than $70 to find out. If it does fix it WooHoo great job! Hillbilly tip: Id check &/or top of the fluid to the proper level while the shifter is out because the open shifter hole is an easy target to pour the fluid in.
Took it for a test drive, heard loud bearing noises in the higher gears, actually wouldn't go into any gear for a minute, I guess its time for a new one. @@saneauto
How to actually check the fluid level on this dumb thing???
Use a white zip tie end, stick in the fill hole (curved side down). If it comes out red, you're good to go. If not, fill until the fill hole starts pouring out.
My fill-plug stuck.