For those of us looking to buy a Lathe It would have been good from the outset to mention the Lathe Brand, model, where its made, distance between centre's,. swing over bed, if the ways have a dropped bed, metal gears, gearbox or belt drive, bore diameter. Would be a good idea to take the chucks and everything apart and check for metal swarf and chips, replace the peanut butter in the machine with gear oil, oil the way and level the machine before doing too much else.
I have been turning on the lathe for many years, its very important that you use the correct cutters for the material you are cutting thats the first thing, we use a larger cut for cleaning off material, we call this rough cutting just for material removal, and then we use a spring pass normally at higher RPM and that will give you a finish that I am sure you will be happy with, always make sure you have limited tool stick out to reduce chatter or harmonics as that will leave visible lines in your part, hope that helps looking forward to what you make good video mate
A good speed is 500 for steel and 750 for aluminum, us a little cutting fluid on the cutting bit, dry cut is going to clog the bit, you need different bit for finish cutting, its not the spindle speed it is the feed rate,
For aluminium almost any sharp tool will give a nice finish with a little WD40 or white spirit. Steel is difficult on small lathes if you are trying to creep up on a very precise diameter. Really sharp HSS is best for finish on fine cuts on steel. I wouldn't worry too much about chip breaking, that more of an issue of waste management on production processes.
Ground carbine inserts work fine even on stainless on my small lathe. Its the cheap moulded carbide inserts that need a high horsepower and rigid setup. Sharp tools work fine on small lathes.
I have had no issues with it so far and has been very accurate from its initial setup at the shop i purchased it from. (Was an ex display model) But be aware it is very big and heavy for a home shop amateur. If you really don’t need the size you should get a smaller one unless you have the room and don’t plan to move it.
Yes. My cheap carbide bits only make chips with aluminium on really heavy cuts. However I still get a lovely finish so might as well keep using them until I run out. Then I will get a proper alu cutting tool.
Thanks! I’ve bought the machinist handbook too but the recommended cuts are way too aggressive for my machine. I’ve been experimenting and settled on a couple of different carbide inserts and a few different speeds that seem to work for me.
Hi. Thanks for the comment. I’ve had the lathe a while now so learned the loads it can take. And I feel comfortable with! And yes aluminium I can cut more heavily. Practice makes perfect.
Mate no disrespect intended, slow down learn about the inserts and what metal they are developed to cut. Same apples to speed and feed their is a correct formula that puts you close to optimal. A lathe is one of the potentially most dangerous machines you can use. When it goes wrong human flesh and bone are no match
Yeah I’ve had quite a bit of practice now. Luckily no injuries! I think I’ve got the limits of what the lathe can handle. More lathe work coming up soon in my next videos.
Хобби
For those of us looking to buy a Lathe It would have been good from the outset to mention the Lathe Brand, model, where its made, distance between centre's,. swing over bed, if the ways have a dropped bed, metal gears, gearbox or belt drive, bore diameter. Would be a good idea to take the chucks and everything apart and check for metal swarf and chips, replace the peanut butter in the machine with gear oil, oil the way and level the machine before doing too much else.
I have been turning on the lathe for many years, its very important that you use the correct cutters for the material you are cutting thats the first thing, we use a larger cut for cleaning off material, we call this rough cutting just for material removal, and then we use a spring pass normally at higher RPM and that will give you a finish that I am sure you will be happy with, always make sure you have limited tool stick out to reduce chatter or harmonics as that will leave visible lines in your part, hope that helps looking forward to what you make good video mate
A good speed is 500 for steel and 750 for aluminum, us a little cutting fluid on the cutting bit, dry cut is going to clog the bit, you need different bit for finish cutting, its not the spindle speed it is the feed rate,
very nice lathe congratulation
Thanks! Still practising. Going to make a hammer next.
For aluminium almost any sharp tool will give a nice finish with a little WD40 or white spirit. Steel is difficult on small lathes if you are trying to creep up on a very precise diameter. Really sharp HSS is best for finish on fine cuts on steel. I wouldn't worry too much about chip breaking, that more of an issue of waste management on production processes.
Ground carbine inserts work fine even on stainless on my small lathe. Its the cheap moulded carbide inserts that need a high horsepower and rigid setup. Sharp tools work fine on small lathes.
@Festivejelly this is a top tip! I’m going to try grinding my cheap carbide inserts to a finer point.
LEE IS BACK!!
Yes. My first lathe project coming this weekend!
Hi
You ordered direct from china?
Hello Lee how good is this lathe so far i also want to buy one
I have had no issues with it so far and has been very accurate from its initial setup at the shop i purchased it from. (Was an ex display model) But be aware it is very big and heavy for a home shop amateur. If you really don’t need the size you should get a smaller one unless you have the room and don’t plan to move it.
@@leeceeworkshop is it gearbox
Keep pliers handy
Get a chart on speeds / feeds. Also every machinist i know owns a Zeus book.
I would be faceing off closer to the chuck less chance of chater and Vibration
What size and weight you got .
Hi its similar to this one:
www.chesterhobbystore.com/shop/metalworking-machines/lathes/crusader-lathe/
Slow the feed down and lubricate for a better finish
Aluminium is notoriously bad, for breaking chips.
You need HSS, with plenty of back rake.
Yes. My cheap carbide bits only make chips with aluminium on really heavy cuts. However I still get a lovely finish so might as well keep using them until I run out. Then I will get a proper alu cutting tool.
Use aluminium inserts. They are ground sharp instead of being moulded@@leeceeworkshop
Use a ccgt insert not a steel insert
address market/sale..where....?
Hi its similar to this one:
www.chesterhobbystore.com/shop/metalworking-machines/lathes/crusader-lathe/
use long nose pliers to pull the swarf of the job NOT FINGERS swarf cuts like a Razor blade.
The music kills it for me.
4 x Cutting Speed ÷ Diameter = RPM
Thanks! I’ve bought the machinist handbook too but the recommended cuts are way too aggressive for my machine. I’ve been experimenting and settled on a couple of different carbide inserts and a few different speeds that seem to work for me.
1/2mm is not a big load, especially in aluminium.
1/2mm is only around 20 thousandths of an inch.
Hi. Thanks for the comment. I’ve had the lathe a while now so learned the loads it can take. And I feel comfortable with! And yes aluminium I can cut more heavily. Practice makes perfect.
Hey man, this is what I need to know
What kind of cuts can you take in hot roll carbon vs stainless
I want to be able to do atleast .075" to .100"
Mate no disrespect intended, slow down learn about the inserts and what metal they are developed to cut. Same apples to speed and feed their is a correct formula that puts you close to optimal. A lathe is one of the potentially most dangerous machines you can use. When it goes wrong human flesh and bone are no match
Yeah I’ve had quite a bit of practice now. Luckily no injuries! I think I’ve got the limits of what the lathe can handle. More lathe work coming up soon in my next videos.