Precision Matthews PM1030V Metal Lathe Setup
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- The unboxing and setup of my new Precision Matthews PM1030V metal lathe. I'll be using this in my business, Resto-Euro LLC. Check out the shop RUclips channel here: / channel
well it's a lathe ruclips.net/user/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
I did an engineering apprenticeship in a workshop some 48 years ago and was always told never use a florecent light above any machine with moving parts as it will/can make the speed seem slower because it can have a strobe effect. good vid
Good tip.
Thanks brah.
Great review. I was thinking of purchasing one of these but am bummed I'm late to the party. Your $2100 shipped cost is now ~$3500 shipped with the taxes.
I bought a damaged 1127 VF from PM, love it. Matt will make you an offer you cannot refuse if he has any returned machines that were damaged in transit and customer refused; they check 'em out head to tail and everything in between, and you still get a 3 year warranty too.
I have a Warco WM 240 that is identical to your m/c, the new Warco model has not got the gear selection knobs on for feed screw direction and 3 speeds. Mine is about 10 years old now and the only problem I had was with the micro switch on the rear guard, that was cured by a bit of packing on the bracket that makes contact with the switch. Best thing I ever bought, it replaced an old Myford Super 7 , that was flimsy in comparison . Its had a lot of use and it still maintains its accuracy.
Be careful when slinging as the straps can exert pressure on the leadscrew etc when strain is applied. Much better to make a small spreader bar and pick with the straps parallel. Personally I went a step further and welded two cross pieces with a spacer the length of the id of the ways. Then the outboard ends had welded eye bolts so the pick was completely outside the ways and screws etc. from underneath. I also used a couple of ratchet straps leading fore and aft to balance the load even more than just what the tailstock could do. This method also gave it a wider base so it lessened the tipping tendency (two more straps allowed adjustment there). My lathe was 1200# and I dealt with a low overhead from which I used a chain fall and a home made gantry to get it into place under a beam. I then lifted it up onto a welded stand. Always best to be careful even if you don't get hurt it is painful to watch a nice machine take a tumble. Take care. Doug
The performance of these small lathes can be transformed by mounting rigidly on an extremely solid stand.
that key, the one with the female square is the wrench for the old tool clamp, the screws that hold the rectangular tools in this holder have the square drive the wrench fits, and that high Morse taper dead center is for the head stock , for LARGE work, the face plate replaces the 3-jaw chuck and a drive dog fits in a slot in the plate, the dead center fits in, and the small one in the tail-stock, and the tail-stock quill, tightens the work for between_Centres turning.
A nice little lathe for the price .
Would love to have a brand new Colchester lathe and Bridgeport mill the same as i was taught on. 😎👍
Big Thank you !! This video that you so graciously uploaded solved an issue I had. My lathe looks almost identical to yours but it's a Weiss WM280V-F...Well I had just moved and was plugging it in for the first time since moving and NOTHING !!! Well after a couple hours of electrical diagnostics I gave up and went to youtube and low and behold there you were to save my day and possibly my wallet because a flimsy bracket they had to depress the safety cut off switch needed to be bent out enough to actually depress the switch ....so again ....Thank You So MUCH !!!
Looks like the end of the compound leadscrew is bent a little, the scale and the wheel wiggle when rotating. In light of the metal in the compound, I would attach magnets to the drainplugs of all the lube reservoirs and clean the oiling passages. Check drainplugs for metal after running a while.
I have the exact same lathe. Same problem with the floppy gear cover. The metal is so thin the cover flexes enough it doesnt press the safety switch hard enough. If i swap gears it takes a lot of tinkering to get it on right so i can start the machine. But for me the biggest problem is the bolts holding the cross slide together. Mine stripped one at a time. So as i replace each bolt with a gr 8 bolt made at a local machine shop a new bolt strips. So as i get money i have the local machine shops build me new parts so i can use it for a few minutes until i discover what will break next. After replacing numerous parts i finally gave up. It just got too expensive to continue on my budget.
I was afraid of that,,,it looks pretty cheaply made,,I'll stick too my vintage lathes they have lasted 50 years with no issues,,,and I can get 3 for the price of one new one,,l buy and restore vintage tools.
Looks like a pretty good setup be curios to see how it holds up in time,,,I'm a vintage lathe guy have 3 atlas metal lathes,,12 inch, and two 6 inch,,,I restore them,,, they have proven themselves.
looks good. I suggest you don't worry about using a machinist s level on the lathe. bed leveling really has more to do with the ways being parallel. if you turn a diameter on a long piece of stock and it measures the same along the length then you're "level". If the ways aren't parallel it will turn a taper which requires shimming on the tailstock to correct.
Bad and incomplete information. The lathe need not be level lengthwise along the ways but the ways need to be in the same plane, measured front to back. It is corrected by LEVELING THE LATHE across the ways; not by adjusting the tailstock. That is only valid on a level lathe. Your method is not only incorrect but assumes that all turning will be between centers.
Late to the party but having the same lathe I know the limitation due to low mass. You would have done better with more mass in your base. Your base while somewhat rigid will not prevent vibration. I cast a 4 inch concrete bast and anchored the lathe bed to it. Still have a lot of trouble digging into 'harder' material, even 304 ss gives me that wavy vibration pattern but much better than you're looking at work that base.
Good stuff. Been thinking about getting one of these. I have the PM727M Mill and you are spot on about Matt. Customer service is excellent. Thanks for the review!
Hey, I really enjoy your videos. just wanted to suggest to you to maybe install some T5 high Bay fluorescent fixtures and get rid of those high Bay lights and the T8 fluorescent fixture. Those things are extremely annoying to listen to when working.
Hey Dean, Looks like a nice little lathe, my favorite machine tool. As you may know, on the three jaw chuck, when you remove the master jaws to clean the scroll, they come out 1, 2, 3, and go back in the reverse order. The independent 4 jaw you just match jaw to screw, location. Nice you got a face plate with it. When using a file, hold handle of file in left hand for safety. I ran lathes for over 30 years, lots of fun. Work safe be good, C.
The MT4 center is for the main spindle so you can turn between centers. You got a lot for the money. Good luck with it :)
Whether the backlash on the cross-slide is 2 thou, will depend on whether the dial is direct, or indirect, read.
Been considering getting a Precision Matthews lathe. Please continue with more vids on the lathe.
I got a PM1440HD about a year ago. Nice machine. Quality Tools were good to deal with. Even though the machine came with a lot of accessories, I ordered the taper attachment, a collet chuck (which is quite nice) and a set of 5C collets as options. I've used the collet chuck a lot more than I thought I would. I've still spent quite a bit on various things. 5 tool holders came with the machine, I bought 6 more, (of the original 5 one is for a boring bar and one is for knurling, you will want a different knurling tool.) I bought an assortment of HSS tool steel, to grind, a set of inserted boring bars (that are less than ideal,) A Noga magnetic dial indicator holder, threading gage, 5 gallons of Mobile gear oil, (you need to change out the original after running the machine for awhile,) lathe files, and on & on.... Even though this lathe is heavy & powerful enough to use carbide tooling on I haven't gone that route yet. Feeds, speeds, & depth of cut need to be considerably greater for carbide than HSS! Best RUclips site I've found for learning is Joe Pieczynski's ruclips.net/channel/UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w
don't get anything precision matthews.
why not
FYI grease is a dirt chip and swarf magnet - it will stay on your change gears, but so will all the grit. try to keep it clean in there and don't wear out your change gears.
Thanks for the video. We have a couple lathes at our local maker space donated and starting to learn how to use them.
Dino the big dead centre can be used for turning between centres can prob pull the chuck off and it will have a no5 morse tapered centre ,put the big dead centre in and you can turn diameter bigger than your chucks jaws allow ,just have to take it steady on your cuts
Aha!
Dean Segovis hope that made sense
Yes, if you take the chuck off, you can then put a drive plate and use a lathe dog to turn a piece between centers (see here : en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lathe_dog )
thewindthatshakesbar yeah that's the way wiki explains it better than me lol
Hey there, great video! Have found it difficult to find a good video on this machine. I bought the Busy Bee CX706 version a month ago, which is exactly the same (unlike other clones which all seem to vary). The only thing that mine did not include however, is the quick change tool post. I have bought one, but am currently researching retrofitting methods as it isn't a simple case of throwing it on there! Would love to see your compound without the tool post, just to see how it is installed. No worries if you haven't got time tho! Cheers. Pete
LOL Several months ago I was temped to respond to a job posting for a auto technician at a shop called Resto-Euro here in NC but I was in my last semester of CNC machining school. I seen that they had a lathe like yours and never put 2 and 2 together. Here I am looking at PM 14-40 reviews and your channel was the first to pop up. Small world. How has your PM lathe held up after these few years? I keep hearing they are good lathes for the money.
It has paid for itself long ago. I use it all the time for many tasks. Excellent value for the money and their support is top notch.
Thank You for the vid!! Just ordered the lathe for my shop!! Can't wait to use it!!
Best Wishes!!!
Hey Dino,,, You're gonna enjoy using your new lathe. Real nice brother. Hope the business is doing well.
Wow you scored when buying that Lathe with all the stuff you have with that Lathe when buying.
Well, that takes Precision out of the Brand Name LOL
Why specifically?
Nice video and good choice for a lathe. What option did you get? Can it be converted to CNC or DRO?
I’m thinking of getting one myself.
Thanks,
Paul
Yes and yes. I have zero complaints and I've used it for all kinds of stuff!!
Power cross feed ?! ... did i miss that ?
So rather than hoist and measure the main mounting holes from the bottom of the lathe, why not just measure the location of those holes using the chip pan?
the price now is $2899.00 + $249.00 shipping. without drill chucks. big jump in 5 years
You are a lucky lucky boy!
I would love one. They even offer it with a DRO! I'd buy it today. Sadly shipping to Italy plus customs, would make it out of the question.
Just got an 1130v delivered and set up. Any ideas why my longitude axis handle is hard to turn? It's not like the cross slide or compound. Those are super smooth. Lock bolt has been released.
Compound looks like the handle end of the leadscrew is bent, note the change in clearance between numbered wheel and the compound body, and was that a shiny spot on the wheel? Is this related to the tight spots in the travel?
You must have backlash on a gear chain or the gears will wear until there is backlash
Last I saw you was rebuilding a motorcycle. That was a great series btw. More like that.
13:56 that dial when you crank it backwards it wobbles about. 010 thousands off. That dial indicator must not be happy for what you did to it.
Will this machine cut standard threads without having to change “quick change” gears? If it doesn’t I’m leaning towards the smithy they has an actual gearbox. You only have to swap change gears if you go to metric.
No, that's what all those gears at the start of the vid are for. PM has lathes with gearboxes too.
where you buy it from; how much it costs; and how much it weighs
At 8:30 are those metal gears in the gear box?
I would prefere a 1030 Watt mashine with or without tail.
it was knocking what was that
me too thinking about getting the 10X22 precision Matthew Lathe could you do a video on all of the features
They used to say you can determine the quality of a lathe by the length of the headstock. The longer it is, with more distance between the bearings, the better. Going by that old adage, this isn't going to be all that great by the looks of it...
The mt 4 goes in the spindle
are you ever going to make another video or is your channel now dead?
He died in a lathe accident lathing two pieces of wood trying to make a fire. Instead it caused nuclear fusion and killed half his country.
i drive a micra k10 and i want to put a turbo in but i dont know how if you can make a projekt or explain how to turbo it that whil be nice
looks very similar to the Warco 250v!
Please could you tell me what height you made the table and if you think you got the height correct? it would also be nice to know your height. I'm told that your elbow should be level with the lathe center or the cross slide wheel. I want to make a table for the same type of lathe, but only want to do it once :)
I have been looking to getting into machining with metal lathe but all the good ones are pushing 3k or more
The one I have JY290VF looks Exactly like this one ... I need the parts owner manual for it ... can somebody help please... thank you
Nice video. Super appreciated.
His company's website seems to still be active. Maybe he just abandoned YT?
Did you hand scrape the compound piece yourself or was it already done?
Good video. Thanks from Angola, NY
Anything special for wiring/power?
His other channel stopped to 5 months ago something must be wrong
PS you can see 250v written inside the tool ox lid!
Have you ever checked the spindle run out on this machine? Just curious to what it is.....
No.
Why are you so worried about backlash?
I ordered one of these and still waiting on it. Did you feel like you needed to lap the ways? Did you put a DRO on it?
Ways are fine as is. No DRO yet but planning on it.
That is nuts how much you get for 2,100 bucks
Hi think about one of these what you think now how has it been thanks
It's a great lathe for the money. No complaints.
the large dead center will most likely go with the face plate to be used with a dawg
Great video Dino.
Thanks for vid.
it's so cool.Pretty good.
How much Sir? for everything?
Top de mais esse torno. Parabéns 👏👏👏👏👏
Vc sabe exatamente o peso do fg006? O seu como voce colocou em cima da bancada?
@@Diogo-dt1uf aproximadamente 175kg , e coloquei com ajuda de outras 3 pessoas.
thanks for the video and the info! looking to get one very soon!!!
Good Video! Thank you!
BTW, what are the dimensions of the drip pan. I'm not sure I have the required space.
Additionally, what brand and model anti-sling grease did you use on the gear set?
Thanks again!
I needed a (forward or reverse) relay for my machine when it was delivered and they never sent me one as promised. We put the reverse one in the forward position to be able to use it. Does anyone know where I can get one?
Check out Automationdirect.com for good selection of electrical and pneumatic parts at reasonable prices. Most things like relays are interchangeable.
Does ANYONE have dimensions of the base legs, i have hole to hole distances, but no width of base besides the table width of 5-1/4" ? im making a stand before mine comes, and no one has the dimensions of the base legs on the cast iron bed. the PM website/crew do not have any dimensions of the base legs.. if anyone owns this lathe, please if you can give some dimensions i would greatly appreciate it!!!
I'm going into the shop today and I'll make some measurements for you. :)
@@HackaweekTV I ended up making the stand 54" so since the overall dimensions are 52" I think I'm covered
your video also gave me an idea, to buy something like that. thanks
C'mon dude, 83,647 subscribers, 15,121 views... people like your videos, why don't you upload more?????
Where is this lathe made?
China
Get some lucas red n tacky on spray grease
How has the lathe held up since this? I am looking to buy one and am just curious.
Still running just fine.
We miss you, are you ok?
after I build a forge, I need to make a lathe ;)
Hey Ichi! Thanks for the Christmas card! That was very thoughtful.
cheers dino !
Hey ichi, how is your plastic metal hoop ring working out? That thing was bad aaasss
If you need a crane to lift a mini lathe, it's not a mini lathe, it's a lathe.
Wish I had a lathe.
Cuanto vale para colombia y donde lo compró?
That would be perfect for me being wheelchair dependent , Just will have to stay on my wish list though .
how much was this machine it looks pretty dam nice dude ??//?
Sweet..
Can you say that in Irish English too? I understand so badly.
Made in U.S.A or made in Germany ??
I tuned in to see this lathe and if it has auto cross feed but no such luck. Thanks anyway.
It does.
como señora la torreta para acer conos gracias
I have the same machine with other name Holzmann ED750FD
Come back HackaweekTV...all is forgiven...
can you make a projekt how to turbo a carb car
sad to see the channel die :/ hope you are doing well.
donbels I hear the lathe came apart at high speed and injured him badly
markman63 is that true?
How much this Machine?
I recently bought a near new used Chinese combination lathe mill drill. When I started it up it made a similar rattle noise to your PM.
It turned out it had done it from new according to the original owner.
I slipped the drive belt off and found all the rattle was from the electric motor, not the Lathe or change gears as I initially suspected. I was planning to change out the motor to eliminate the rattle.
When removing the belt drive pulley from the motor, I undid the grub screw and took the pulley off the motor shaft!
That’s when I found the Chinese manufacturers had run out of woodruff keys for the pulley / shaft, so they cheated & just rotated the pulley until the grub screw from the pulley tightened down into the woodruff key slot on the motor shaft to lock the two components together!
The grub screw was a loose fit in the woodruff keyway in the motor shaft & was the cause of the rattle sound (similar to yours).
I bought a kit of woodruff keys from an engineering shop, and fitted one between drive belt pulley and motor shaft in the woodruff key slot, then tightened the securing grub screw onto the opposite side of the motor shaft where it was meant to go!
Put the motor back into place & re fitted the drive belt, & the annoying rattle was completely gone!
No need for new motor or gears or bearings as I had initially feared!
A $2 woodruff key was all that was required!
Those cheap arsed Chinese assholes didn’t care they just wanted to ship it & get paid!
This is one of the biggest issues with cheap crap Chinese Lathes, you have to go thru them with a fine tooth comb & find everything the manufacturers / assemblers did wrong & fix it!
You have to remember in Chine these are primary school aged children press hanged into working in factories for 2 bowls of rice a week assembling your cheap lathe!
Bye buying them we are reinforcing child forced labor policy’s of the communist Chinese, and getting inferior product for our trouble!
I believe that Trump is right to try & institute trade tariffs so severe on Chinese product, that manufacturers bring manufacturing jobs back to USA (The West) where you have half a chance you might get a tradesman machinist assembling your lathe, and bent lead screws etc would be rejected.
$2200 is cheap, but a lathe that doesn’t work properly isn’t worth $2.00 so really your just wasting hard earned $ On crap product & emboldening our Chinese enemies!
My 2C
... I know yes "the quality of american lathes" .. GRIZZLY sugs! Why did you bought buy lathe from Trump WHY? European lathes are just another class, quality is at the top! I borrow American words: you get, what you want to pay!The Chinese know how to build that is fact.
VammasKersantti Here downunder in Oz not a lot of Euro brand lathes available!
Our power supply is different to both Euro & USA I.e 240V AC Single Phase & 440V AC 3 Phase.
@@ianmoone2359, Transformers are readily available!
Larry Schweitzer Yes but no one in this country sells the US or the Euro Lathes!
You have to order & pay online, sight unseen, then hope it ships without getting lost damaged. When it arrives if it arrives, you might find that there’s aspects of it that you don’t like, but because you bought online, and not had a chance to physically inspect the lathe prior to purchase.
We have retailers sell lathes here where you can physically go in an inspect the lathe, see it working, have a sales person walk you through all the features etc.
Only problem?
Everything they sell is made in China!
There is no US or Euro products to choose from.
These are my “available options” locally”. See for yourself, all Chinese!
www.machineryhouse.com.au/Centre-Lathes
@@ianmoone2359 Much depends on what you are willing to spend. I'm pretty sure the Chinese can make good tools. But the importers are always trying to sell cheap. I have a PM1440HD generally decent for the price but certainly not a true production machine. I also have a JET 9x49 mill bought used. It has quite a lot of wear but you really need both a mill and a lathe to do most things. I've ended up spending quite a lot on "accessories." Measuring tools, boring bars, tool holders, several sets of drills, tap & die sets, sine bar, gage blocks, tool makers vice, Kurt vice for the mill (the cheap one that came on the mill was horrible!) boring head, spin indexer, assorted end mills, many small tools, bench grinder, on & on. Mostly Chinese, some of it OK, some junk. I also have a home made melt furnace for casting aluminum, both fun and frustrating.
This would appear to be a PM spec Sieg SC8
Does that mean it is derived from those Chinese "cheap?"machines?
What is the price this lathe