Considering the extremely small number of results on Google for that word, fescalise or fescalised (even when replacing the last s with a z), I highly doubt that. Further googling gives there was a company called Fescol that made thick electrochemical deposition so some people might have called it to fescolise parts but that's still very rare and it has nothing to do with the method in this video.
its always bugged me that polishing or sanding a surface always involves removing the material in high spots, its really satisfying to see a tool that works my mushing the high spots into the low, it feels right in a way
Nice Ball Bearing Burnisher. I used something like this in my old job to smoothen and compress the surface of the internal bore of a cylinder to make it a better surface for hydraulic seals.
Brilliant idea to use a circlip as a backstop in your chuck. Never seen that before, I always thought the grooves in the jaws were just to give a better 'bite to the workholding. Thanks very much. I had a similar idea about the burnishing tool, but with a heavy spring within the fixture so a constant load can be applied. Great thinking, great application. Thanks again.
Great idea, I haven’t seen this done before. Tempted to make one myself! Looks like your tail stock is a bit out of alignment or that big drill is a bit bent. It really flexes when it centers in the hole.
Interesting idea. I'm no pro, but getting your work overhang (and tooling overhang with that endmill, yikes!) under control would go a long way toward helping the initial surface finish and hole centering. Choke up in the chuck as much as the operation allows. Have you experimented with a vetrical shear tool for turning and facing? It's a really easy and forgiving grind and it changed how I think of a finish pass on 1018 and similar mild steel. Two passes at 0.001-0.002" DOC, about 0.002-0.003 IPR feed and low SFM (like
Also wondering if you could skip the solo ball and just lightly radius the outer race of a bearing on a bench grinder or diamond grinder then just mount that little curved monster on the end of your tool and eliminate the ball. I wonder if they make a small, sealed, tapered roller bearing that would resist the lateral load better. Just thinking out loud.
Thank you for investing the time to do the video. Any offer of general sizing of part and cutting tools? I am really interested in the hole size for the bearing. Thank you
I wonder if you could get a similar result by mounting a sealed bearing to a tool blank at maybe 1 degree offset and using the corner of the bearing outer race to burnish the work.
That was my first thought too. I wondered if using a toolpost grinder to put a smooth radius on the outer bearing race, then polish it, would achieve a similar result, with less complexity. Mount it as you suggest, or in a fork, maybe?
I like it. looking at it, the front could be bored through with an inner step and a smaller ball entered from the back where the bearing is. Or does the ball need to be larger than 6mm or so?
Yes, slightly. The process is used in watchmaking for simultaneous surface hardening and decreasing pivot size. I believe the industrial roller tools for burnishing holes have a specific "before" size which you have to hit before using the tool, which is like an exposed bearing which uses the hole as an outer race, for the burnishing effect.
Nice idea. Does the accuracy of the bore that the bearing ball sits in matter much? I was thinking about this and wondering whether a sleeve of non-ferrous material (ideally bronze, but brass would probably be ok too) that was bored out to a close fit for the ball could help in maintaining the accuracy and repeatability of the burnishing process. Might try it out.
The same process can be done for finishing drilled holes called burnishing. Obviously you need a different type tool however the process is essentially the same. Forming metal using a steel ball of sorts. Very accurate size and finish can be achieved with this type of tool.
Does anyone know, does this process actually work-harden the workpiece? It would be a nice simple process to give a harder finish to a component that doesn't justify heat treating, case hardening, or plating.
Kann es sein, dass der Rundlauf des Dreibackenfutters jenseits von Eden ist? Da eiert ja alles, vom Bohrer bis zum Fräser.. Tut ja weh beim Hinsehen. Ist da keine Messuhr in der Nähe?
Turning produces peaks and troughs. The pressure from the ball or bearing bends the peaks over giving a more polished and larger surface area . It will reduce the diameter so you have to allow for this on your final dimension.
That looks pretty useful. However, it's limited when it comes to anything with a shoulder. A miniature version might be more useful. A Silicon Nitride ball might be a better option, being significantly harder than a Steel one.
Cheer~~~~a machine for shaping wood, metal, or other material by means of a rotating drive which turns the piece being worked on against changeable cutting tools.😊
Micro suggestion - don't put the mill bit directly into the chuck jaws. They're both hardened. It can slip and damaged one or both. Hold it with some foil over the jaws (or similar).
Making a single point burnisher. Actually in more cases not a solution since the toolmarks are only ever burnished rather than removed. They are just pressed to one side, usually the direction of feed. Improved finishes sure, correct dimension maybe not...
Looks to me he’s using it as a guide to chuck in the bearing straight. The inner ring was completely unsupported and the force went through the rollers in a way they weren’t designed to handle. That’s a big no-no and can and *WILL* damage the bearing.
@@SergeiPetrov - boy am I glad RUclips has a history function!!! Never would have found this again otherwise... ruclips.net/video/XRuKKchj7sk/видео.html
However, these projects are great EXCEPT no dimensions! neither metric or imperial... And yes, I know how much more difficult it is to include these details when one is makin something from idea's in one's head... I am always doing the same thing and then thinking "i should have made a video with details about this project...
@jamesbaker3153 precisely. A tiny amount of liquid scattered everywhere, but where it's needed. Pedanticism might be your thing. Common sense, not so much...
Why do people always feel the need to command me to "like, subscribe and hit the bell"? If I think your content is worth it, I'll do so myself, if I don't think so, I won't. But if your content is worth it (like this video) but you're trying to push me, I will not only NOT do any of these, but block your channel so you don't receive any clicks from me ever again.
Incorrect way to press a bearing, never ever put force on the balls. Holding the outer race, while pressing into the inner race, is a way to void bearing warranties.
Nice job ! But why not make the hole "thing" out of a square piece, instead of turning and welding it out of two pieces ? But thanks, you inspirered me. . .
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
The process is called Fescalising.
Thank you, I will pin your comment
I was actually wondering that. Thsnks.
It's called Burnishing
Wow, learn something new every day!
Considering the extremely small number of results on Google for that word, fescalise or fescalised (even when replacing the last s with a z), I highly doubt that.
Further googling gives there was a company called Fescol that made thick electrochemical deposition so some people might have called it to fescolise parts but that's still very rare and it has nothing to do with the method in this video.
its always bugged me that polishing or sanding a surface always involves removing the material in high spots, its really satisfying to see a tool that works my mushing the high spots into the low, it feels right in a way
This is incredible. I was confused at first but after watching this it makes perfect sense
Thank you for taking time to shoot and edit this video. This work was as interesting for me as the tool, which, in itself, is wonderful!
Nice Ball Bearing Burnisher. I used something like this in my old job to smoothen and compress the surface of the internal bore of a cylinder to make it a better surface for hydraulic seals.
Oh yeah - add a big ink reservoir and you've just created the largest ball point pen ever! :D
Yes
The first ball point pen was patented for marking lumber. I bet it was big.
Brilliant simple design. Love it
Thanks 🙏
wow, i love the use of the late like a mill. very creative
Well, its really not. Thats how ppl without a mill have been using their lathes for ages..
@@Thelemorf oh interesting, I've just never seen it done before
@@KingJellyfishII if you want to play in the big boy League you use a milling attachment so you get xyz axis
Very nice use of the lathe as an mill! 👍🏽
Switching tool and object for slot milling was the interesting part for me :)
Resourceful 😮. Amazing work
Brilliant idea to use a circlip as a backstop in your chuck. Never seen that before, I always thought the grooves in the jaws were just to give a better 'bite to the workholding. Thanks very much. I had a similar idea about the burnishing tool, but with a heavy spring within the fixture so a constant load can be applied. Great thinking, great application. Thanks again.
❤️
Nice idea for the backstop, but a bad way to ef up a bearing. Holding the wrong race when pushing in an oversized axle.
@@JaakkoF Quite right, fully agree.
A dual vee bearing by say Bishop-Wisecarver would better distribute the ball loads.
Great idea, I haven’t seen this done before. Tempted to make one myself!
Looks like your tail stock is a bit out of alignment or that big drill is a bit bent. It really flexes when it centers in the hole.
When pressing bearings, support the inner ring!
Thanks 👌🙏
To be more precise, when pressing bearings, support the same ring as you are pressing against and never let the force go through the rollers or balls.
I would be tempted to try a "scissor" version of this (like a scissor knurl) just to keep from putting undue load on the spindle and toolpost.
Sure ❤❤❤❤
Both sides of the scissor wouldn't have to be an identical ball, 1 side could just be an uncomplicated roller bearing.
I guess machining puts a lot more radial force onto the spindle than this tiny ball
MAN OF CULTURE! ...... Also I learned about a dozen cool techniques here. Thank you.
you're welcome 🙏
I perceive this to be a burnishing technique... BRILLIANT.
Interesting idea. I'm no pro, but getting your work overhang (and tooling overhang with that endmill, yikes!) under control would go a long way toward helping the initial surface finish and hole centering. Choke up in the chuck as much as the operation allows.
Have you experimented with a vetrical shear tool for turning and facing? It's a really easy and forgiving grind and it changed how I think of a finish pass on 1018 and similar mild steel. Two passes at 0.001-0.002" DOC, about 0.002-0.003 IPR feed and low SFM (like
Thanks a lot my friend ❤️🙏
That's no good... what will we do with the new tools we all made after watching this video! 😜
I ground up a shear tool for my lathe and it indeed produces a wonderful finish
very professional and practical😍👏
🙏
Also wondering if you could skip the solo ball and just lightly radius the outer race of a bearing on a bench grinder or diamond grinder then just mount that little curved monster on the end of your tool and eliminate the ball. I wonder if they make a small, sealed, tapered roller bearing that would resist the lateral load better. Just thinking out loud.
Thank you for investing the time to do the video. Any offer of general sizing of part and cutting tools? I am really interested in the hole size for the bearing. Thank you
Yes ❤❤❤❤
Looks like he used a 629 bearing. That's a 9mm bore, 26mm od and 8mm wide.
SO the end result, can it be used for hydraulics, for example? is it smooth enough for the seals?
I wonder if you could get a similar result by mounting a sealed bearing to a tool blank at maybe 1 degree offset and using the corner of the bearing outer race to burnish the work.
That was my first thought too. I wondered if using a toolpost grinder to put a smooth radius on the outer bearing race, then polish it, would achieve a similar result, with less complexity. Mount it as you suggest, or in a fork, maybe?
I like it. looking at it, the front could be bored through with an inner step and a smaller ball entered from the back where the bearing is. Or does the ball need to be larger than 6mm or so?
Thanks , A larger ball is recommended for a larger lathe
I gotta make this!
Nice work, how much does it change the diameter of the work piece? 👍
Yes, slightly.
The process is used in watchmaking for simultaneous surface hardening and decreasing pivot size.
I believe the industrial roller tools for burnishing holes have a specific "before" size which you have to hit before using the tool, which is like an exposed bearing which uses the hole as an outer race, for the burnishing effect.
The king of all engineers❤
Thanks a lot my dear friend Sohrab 🙏❤️
Have you tried various oils? It could make a difference, good or bad.
I like your design
🙏
I wonder if you can use this process to leave a uniform pattern instead of the smooth finish.
Nice idea. Does the accuracy of the bore that the bearing ball sits in matter much? I was thinking about this and wondering whether a sleeve of non-ferrous material (ideally bronze, but brass would probably be ok too) that was bored out to a close fit for the ball could help in maintaining the accuracy and repeatability of the burnishing process.
Might try it out.
❤️
what kind of acid did you use to protect from rust?
The same process can be done for finishing drilled holes called burnishing. Obviously you need a different type tool however the process is essentially the same. Forming metal using a steel ball of sorts. Very accurate size and finish can be achieved with this type of tool.
I am in tool and die making school right about now, how can i do this? You know with the measurments
Love from puerto rico.
What was the process called when he joined them both together was it brazing them or soldering them to join them with heat please.
in 1:23 to 1:27 we clearly see the centers were not aligned, but it actually worked (almost perfectly) due to tool flexibility.
Does anyone know, does this process actually work-harden the workpiece? It would be a nice simple process to give a harder finish to a component that doesn't justify heat treating, case hardening, or plating.
Yes - it's been done for centuries by horologists to make pivots smooth AND hard
Yes it case hardens a small amount but nothing like a true heat treat would.
@user-hy4to2tk6v : I would be interested to know what you find. Could you post the outcome here, if it's not too long? That would be great. 👍
Kann es sein, dass der Rundlauf des Dreibackenfutters jenseits von Eden ist? Da eiert ja alles, vom Bohrer bis zum Fräser.. Tut ja weh beim Hinsehen. Ist da keine Messuhr in der Nähe?
😕
Nice one
amazing🌸🌸
🙏
What did you use to do the blueing/blacking?…nice video..
It was Super Blue
How much force is applied to the ball for burnishing?
This is actually roller burnishing.
Is this how they make shafts for hydraulic rams so smooth?
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤عالی درودبرشمااستاد
🙏
I would guess that in a lot alloys, working the surface this way would also contribute to increased hardness, probably improving wear qualities.
❤✌🏼 supert 🎉 veldig bra
❤️🙏
What kind of ball is that
Good job
So does it remove material or just polish it because it looks like theres a difference in size not just finish
Turning produces peaks and troughs. The pressure from the ball or bearing bends the peaks over giving a more polished and larger surface area . It will reduce the diameter so you have to allow for this on your final dimension.
That looks pretty useful. However, it's limited when it comes to anything with a shoulder. A miniature version might be more useful.
A Silicon Nitride ball might be a better option, being significantly harder than a Steel one.
Very good
🙏
And could you use map gas to do this
Interesting. I've noticed the lighter my cuts the worse the finish seems to result. If this actually works I would be very interested in trying it.
gold paw😍👌
🙏
Cheer~~~~a machine for shaping wood, metal, or other material by means of a rotating drive which turns the piece being worked on against changeable cutting tools.😊
Hi I want best one for skimming cylinder head
Micro suggestion - don't put the mill bit directly into the chuck jaws. They're both hardened. It can slip and damaged one or both.
Hold it with some foil over the jaws (or similar).
Thanks 👍👍❤️
Hallo gibt es eine Bauteilzeichnung? Bzw Stückliste
Nein, leider braucht man nur ein Kugellager und eine kleine Dtahlkugel 🙏
Geil 😍 echt toll
🙏
It was great, great boy👌
🙏
jeg liker jobben du❤
Thanks bro
Making a single point burnisher. Actually in more cases not a solution since the toolmarks are only ever burnished rather than removed. They are just pressed to one side, usually the direction of feed. Improved finishes sure, correct dimension maybe not...
Just wondering why you cannot achieve a good surface finish off the tool. Have you had any formal training as a machinist
Anybody knows where to buy?
OUCH, you should never press a bearing in a way that transfers the load through the bearing. 5:50
7:14 Should have been a shouldered bolt.
❤❤❤
5:43, using the snap ring to avoid deforming the bearing. Thanks!
Looks to me he’s using it as a guide to chuck in the bearing straight. The inner ring was completely unsupported and the force went through the rollers in a way they weren’t designed to handle. That’s a big no-no and can and *WILL* damage the bearing.
🎉🎉🎉🎉
there is no substitute for trade qualified machinists . everyone says oh i can use a lathe but actually they cant
Why not just use the bearing?
ball will concentratre pressure to a point. less work on the spindle. also the ball is easily replaced.
Why doesn't anyone use a properly dulled ceramic turning tool?
Like a broken spark plug? Just saw another guy make a holder (M18 * 1.5) for that the other day! Totally doing it.
@@DrFiero link?
@@SergeiPetrov - boy am I glad RUclips has a history function!!! Never would have found this again otherwise...
ruclips.net/video/XRuKKchj7sk/видео.html
What are you using to do the blueing/ blacking?…nice video
@@johnhall8455 - Probably want to post that as it's own comment, not a reply. Never get seen.
dont quench a braze! or any hot joint for that matter!
Mardi marrrrrrrd
Marrrd
Sandpaper way easier for me
Burnishing.
Ofishhhhhhhh
However, these projects are great EXCEPT no dimensions! neither metric or imperial... And yes, I know how much more difficult it is to include these details when one is makin something from idea's in one's head... I am always doing the same thing and then thinking "i should have made a video with details about this project...
Adding one drop of oil at the beginning of a cut, then no more is tantamount to pissing in a whirlwind...🤦♂️
Almost the exact opposite. Pissing in a whirlwind would get it everywhere. Metalwork might be your thing. Wordplay? Not so much.
@jamesbaker3153 precisely. A tiny amount of liquid scattered everywhere, but where it's needed. Pedanticism might be your thing. Common sense, not so much...
Did you really use your tail stock as a bearing press??!! Poor little lathe...😮💨
Why do people always feel the need to command me to "like, subscribe and hit the bell"? If I think your content is worth it, I'll do so myself, if I don't think so, I won't. But if your content is worth it (like this video) but you're trying to push me, I will not only NOT do any of these, but block your channel so you don't receive any clicks from me ever again.
Incorrect way to press a bearing, never ever put force on the balls. Holding the outer race, while pressing into the inner race, is a way to void bearing warranties.
Absolutely true.
Also, not putting force on the balls is good advice for life, in general.
No, man, you won't be able polish surfaces properly with your device. Looking shiny doesn't define the actual quality of surface roughness.
I fired you two times already when you use the tailstock to press stuff in I fired you on the spot. We don’t do that otherwise it’s OK.
Nice job !
But why not make the hole "thing" out of a square piece, instead of turning and welding it out of two pieces ?
But thanks, you inspirered me. . .
❤❤❤❤❤