As usual an innovate no fuss well made design. How about making a scissors version of this like a scissors knurdling tool. I'd be afraid that your tool would nacker my old Taiwanese lathe cross slide thread. I made a scissors knurdling tool to avoid this as the force is on the nut and bolt grip not by push from the cross slide. Great video, well done!
2 месяца назад
Đẹp quá. Version này hay hơn bản cũ là có cái học nhớt ha bạn. Cảm ơn bạn đã chia sẻ.👍👍👍👍
Для чего используется?Если уплотнение материала,то есть другие технологии,если чистота поверхности,то гребешки будут равными величине подачи.Да и шарик будет делать отверстие оправки больше,как и подшипник будет иметь трение боковое об оправку.Ну приспособление конечно красивое и займет достойное место в коллекции автора.
I want the full dimensions or measurements for this piece Such as the width of the hole on both sides, the internal width of the piece, and a hole in the front to insert the ball
Tôi muốn biết kích thước hoặc số đo đầy đủ cho mảnh này, chẳng hạn như chiều rộng của lỗ ở cả hai bên, chiều rộng bên trong của mảnh và một lỗ ở phía trước để lắp bóng vào
Lets design it by eye Lets say he uses 20/25mm tool shanks that would make the bearing ball about 15mm in diameter. Lets give it 5mm on either side so the stock is 25mm wide. The bearing lets say is 10mm wide to support the 15mm BB. The bearing diameter is somewhere around 30mm. Look up a bearing catalogue and find a 17x35x10 (103) or 15x32x9 (102). Personally I would go with the 103. The vertical hole for the BB needs to be just slightly bigger than the BB so a 5/8 drill should be fine. The horizontal hole for the BB maybe something like 10mm - better to start smaller as then you can drill it bigger. The aim is to have the BB protruding, I don't think it needs to be a lot. More importantly the bore for it needs to be a fairly close fit AND the position of the ball when working is centered on the left by the front of the tool and the vertical hole. This is because when it is working it is being held in place by the bearing AND the bored hole. The front hole is really just to stop the BB from falling out. The slot for the bearing needs to be just wider than the bearing and longer than the bearing diameter. With a 17mm bore for the bearing lets say 3mm minimum material around it. So centreline is 20mm down from the top of the tool. The bottom of the working part of the tool has to be lower so that there is an oil pocket to aide the lubrication. 35 dia bearing, starting 20mm down from top face so the pocket for the bearing needs to be 38mm deep and so the holder can be made from 40mm material. The shank is machined to suit your lathe so it easy to get the BB on the centreline Material list 15mm steel bearing ball 103 ball bearing (17x35x10) 25x40x(60+length of shank) 17mm pin Now all of that is just guessing by looking at the very first video image. The best thing to do now would be to draw it up and make sure the dimension feel about right. Adjust as you desire. For example if you have a smaller lathe you may want to go down in size of ball and bearing. This would reduce the force needed as the area being burnished is smaller. However, the bigger the ball the flatter the surface can be. Also as a side note the larger the tool tip radius the smoother you can off tool get a good surface finish. Kennametal has a surface finish calculator - search for Surface Finish Calculator Using a 0.1mm/rev feed rate and changing from a 0.2mm to an 4mm radius the surface finish changes from 2.3 to 0.12 um (100 to 4uin). This assumes that the tool is cutting perfectly - that is the surface is bright and shiny and only the ridge from the tool radius left on the surface. So you would move from a GOOD off tool finish to one that is at the better end of grinding. The alternative (in a production environment is if the drawing calls for a 3.2um (125 uin) finish With a 0.2mm tool radius your feed needs to be a MAXIMUM of 0.115mm/rev (0.003"/rev) with a 4mm tool radius your feed needs to be a MAXIMUM of 0.53mm/rev (0.048"/rev) So same surface finish but feed increases 4.6X When I was doing this we had 1mm and 12.5mm (25mm dia) radius tools & a 6.3/250 surface finish So the feeds where 0.37 & 1.3 ~4X You can go even better by using a "flat" tool a vere large radius on the front of the tool but a width that the rigidity of your machine allows. Thing a parting tool but with a curved front edge so that it doesn't have to be PERFECTLY parallel to the surface. Now you can feed at nearly same as the width of the tool!!!!!
Credit where credit is due: yours is the nicest design so far, because you also included a nice pocket where the oil is retained.
Nice work brother, may I use your design?
Regards
Alan in NZ.
That looks great. Are you selling these? I would buy one.
Hi :-) Nice tool. Do you have a drawing for this tool?
Estimado amigo sería genial subas un plano de la fabricación. Saludos desde el Callao Perú Julio César Aquino
Nice job. If you sell this item, I will buy one!
As usual an innovate no fuss well made design. How about making a scissors version of this like a scissors knurdling tool. I'd be afraid that your tool would nacker my old Taiwanese lathe cross slide thread. I made a scissors knurdling tool to avoid this as the force is on the nut and bolt grip not by push from the cross slide. Great video, well done!
Đẹp quá. Version này hay hơn bản cũ là có cái học nhớt ha bạn. Cảm ơn bạn đã chia sẻ.👍👍👍👍
A ferramenta ficou ótima, parabéns 👏👏
Bu parçanın teknik ölçülerini paylaşır mısınız
Great job, colleague👍👍👍
So about 10 micron reduction in diameter?
That's a really really beautiful design
Wonder if this tool can be used in a milling machine (probably need to be CNC) on flat blocks?
Very nice, well thought out tool!
What materials do you use?
Parabéns e obrigado por compartilhar!
cuáles son las medidas para poder fabricar esa herramienta?
Có bán ko bạn ơi
How can I acquire that tool for Latin América??
отличная работа!
Do you have a bird?
kích thước ổ trục và đường kính bi
Sáng tạo❤
Anh có vam uốn ống 27 không ảnh bán lại cho e
What type of steel would work for this?
I would use 4140 but for price 1045 would work
Bạn có bán hàng sang Mỹ không?
he only sells it domestically.
Do you want to sale some of those?
Genial lo pondre en práctica
Для чего используется?Если уплотнение материала,то есть другие технологии,если чистота поверхности,то гребешки будут равными величине подачи.Да и шарик будет делать отверстие оправки больше,как и подшипник будет иметь трение боковое об оправку.Ну приспособление конечно красивое и займет достойное место в коллекции автора.
Làm chia cho 1 cái với bạn
Hallo gibt es eine Bauanleitung?
Ser you can send drawing of dhis tool
図面を公開して欲しい
I want the full dimensions or measurements for this piece Such as the width of the hole on both sides, the internal width of the piece, and a hole in the front to insert the ball
kích thước ổ trục và đường kính bi
Tôi muốn biết kích thước hoặc số đo đầy đủ cho mảnh này, chẳng hạn như chiều rộng của lỗ ở cả hai bên, chiều rộng bên trong của mảnh và một lỗ ở phía trước để lắp bóng vào
Lets design it by eye
Lets say he uses 20/25mm tool shanks that would make the bearing ball about 15mm in diameter.
Lets give it 5mm on either side so the stock is 25mm wide.
The bearing lets say is 10mm wide to support the 15mm BB. The bearing diameter is somewhere around 30mm.
Look up a bearing catalogue and find a 17x35x10 (103) or 15x32x9 (102). Personally I would go with the 103.
The vertical hole for the BB needs to be just slightly bigger than the BB so a 5/8 drill should be fine.
The horizontal hole for the BB maybe something like 10mm - better to start smaller as then you can drill it bigger.
The aim is to have the BB protruding, I don't think it needs to be a lot.
More importantly the bore for it needs to be a fairly close fit AND the position of the ball when working is centered on the left by the front of the tool and the vertical hole.
This is because when it is working it is being held in place by the bearing AND the bored hole. The front hole is really just to stop the BB from falling out.
The slot for the bearing needs to be just wider than the bearing and longer than the bearing diameter.
With a 17mm bore for the bearing lets say 3mm minimum material around it. So centreline is 20mm down from the top of the tool.
The bottom of the working part of the tool has to be lower so that there is an oil pocket to aide the lubrication.
35 dia bearing, starting 20mm down from top face so the pocket for the bearing needs to be 38mm deep and so the holder can be made from 40mm material.
The shank is machined to suit your lathe so it easy to get the BB on the centreline
Material list
15mm steel bearing ball
103 ball bearing (17x35x10)
25x40x(60+length of shank)
17mm pin
Now all of that is just guessing by looking at the very first video image.
The best thing to do now would be to draw it up and make sure the dimension feel about right.
Adjust as you desire. For example if you have a smaller lathe you may want to go down in size of ball and bearing.
This would reduce the force needed as the area being burnished is smaller.
However, the bigger the ball the flatter the surface can be.
Also as a side note the larger the tool tip radius the smoother you can off tool get a good surface finish.
Kennametal has a surface finish calculator - search for Surface Finish Calculator
Using a 0.1mm/rev feed rate and changing from a 0.2mm to an 4mm radius the surface finish changes from 2.3 to 0.12 um (100 to 4uin).
This assumes that the tool is cutting perfectly - that is the surface is bright and shiny and only the ridge from the tool radius left on the surface.
So you would move from a GOOD off tool finish to one that is at the better end of grinding.
The alternative (in a production environment is if the drawing calls for a 3.2um (125 uin) finish
With a 0.2mm tool radius your feed needs to be a MAXIMUM of 0.115mm/rev (0.003"/rev)
with a 4mm tool radius your feed needs to be a MAXIMUM of 0.53mm/rev (0.048"/rev)
So same surface finish but feed increases 4.6X
When I was doing this we had 1mm and 12.5mm (25mm dia) radius tools & a 6.3/250 surface finish
So the feeds where 0.37 & 1.3 ~4X
You can go even better by using a "flat" tool a vere large radius on the front of the tool but a width that the rigidity of your machine allows.
Thing a parting tool but with a curved front edge so that it doesn't have to be PERFECTLY parallel to the surface.
Now you can feed at nearly same as the width of the tool!!!!!
Bán a 1 cây e ơi
Good sir ji
Класс!
Beli satu pak.
A Lễ cho e xin số zalo đc ko anh