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IT WOULD BE REALLY GREAT IF YOU MAKE A VEGA TREM, IT´S REALLY EXPENSIVE I'D LOVE TO WATCH TRYING TO DO THAT ONE!

Amazing and Beautiful Learn form u

I bought a couple of machines from Weiss a few years ago (VM18L and a Lathe) they're pretty much okay. I converted them to CNC and made thousands of parts with them. What you might need to check: spindle bearings, mine ran hot after some time, also how the spindle is assembled - I had to re-assemble mine and put japanese bearings into it since then the machine did not run hot anymore. There's a ring with a U channel, squeezed together by a screw in mine, this needs some lock screw and/or screw glue to keep it in place. also I changed the lead screws to ballscrews. About the Weiss support - they're excellent and provide spare parts quickly. I can fully recommend them. The problem with the chinese collets is some of them have a poor quality and if they get a hit they might be bad permanently (check runout).

Question: what became of this endeavour?

How can a centrally mounted 70mm diameter cam be 22mm above the surface above the carrier. That's 35mm????

sounds ok

Yup, cleaning the oil from the vise removes the problem of it coming out of the jaws. I liked the tear down of the vise and now I won't be afraid of tearing down mine 🙂

On my version of the vise, the collar at the back is threaded and you can unwind it to remove the collar. I'm guessing it can be used to adjust the slop. But you did solve one problem that had me a bit stumped (thus my watching your clip) ... how to remove the top/sliding jaw with a bloody grub screw in the middle hole! Thus I thank you! 🍻😃👍

so the shortest closest to the body, and then the longer ones in the back?

Increíble ,sin palabras 😮😮😮

Sir would mind plz give me your WhatsApp/facebook account

A good speed is 500 for steel and 750 for aluminum, us a little cutting fluid on the cutting bit, dry cut is going to clog the bit, you need different bit for finish cutting, its not the spindle speed it is the feed rate,

Hello Lee, I think a US supplier of the same range of lathes is 'Precision Matthews' - they get good reviews. Rob.

Hi You ordered direct from china?

The ebike wheel comes from china in you wheel size thats why it takes for ever when swytch do the crowd funding some big name banks place money into there funding campaign thous temping you to jump on the swytch train and go fund them howerver that said the real money is in the air battery that is there USP Apple or Tesla could of done the same thing

Oh fantastic you got your mill great to see looks amazing! Would you be interested in making a up to date video based on your knowledge and experience. Maybe what you would look to get today in the current market? Also what you would recommend as a mill user? Great videos super helpful cheers

Very nice mill. I’m jealous. He he

I went down the ArcEurotrade Route with a Sieg SX3 and an SC4 lathe. Not the best in the world, but ok for playing around with.

Quite innovative mend mission. Copper is a good choice for runners, and for certain jobs, jaw inserts. B&Q sold these 1 Ton Record vices for ~£20 in 2000 just before Irwin acquired.

Were can a buy this mill nice machine

Just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice work

Very interesting, thanks so much.

Very interesting, thanks so much for sharing :)

Get a chart on speeds / feeds. Also every machinist i know owns a Zeus book.

Slow the feed down and lubricate for a better finish

how does nylon joint to the brass bushing lee? just press fit? it will not coming off when we turn out the bridge? i mean before we screw it with screw.

Nice work! Scale length has nothing to do with your saddle width and string spacing just as a tip from a pro builder... scale length is the length of your scale from the nut to the saddles and is important for things like string tension and intonation which is the accuracy of your notes the further away you get from the nut.... string spacing is dependent on your pickup pole spacing (if you arent using bar pickups etc) as your strings need to align above them (for the most part) there are two universal spacings... F space (Fender and Floyd Rose guitars) which I believe is 50mm for both neck and bridge. The other is Gibson spacing which is 50 and 53 mm so Gibsons and the TOM bridge go wide and narrow up at the nut which is skinnier than Fender and Floyd rose guitars... The nut width is also key to to your string spacing... you dont want strings too close or too far apart. Hope that helps :)

You can actually drill right up to the chuck so long as you peck drill and clear the swarf everytime. Also when you get to the end of the travel on the compound, set your depth, on the cross slide, wind the compound all the way back, move the carriage to the end of your cut, note the cross slide depth and continue cutting your taper.

A more appropriate title might've been "Let's clean a good portion of a vise". No indicator, bluing, testing for parallelism/mismatched heights, the list goes on. You may have gotten the cream of the cheap chinese milling vice crop, and that's a good thing. But when all is said and done, if it clamps the part, holds it, and you're happy with the results, that's really what counts.

use long nose pliers to pull the swarf of the job NOT FINGERS swarf cuts like a Razor blade.

I would be faceing off closer to the chuck less chance of chater and Vibration

You can always make your drills longer by tuning the shank diameter down and putting a extension on with a bit of tube

i bought the warco version...i regret my choice. high cost delivery to eu, no proper outside uk warranty, not tested by warco as promised, came non functional ...fixed it myself. hope you had a better buying experience.

i will try this on the same model mill i own

i like the block cylinder design....blind drill and then bore? can you explain more?

nice one...double trouble

great fun to build and make as gifts

thanks, ive recently bought a similar mill from Warco, built by Weiss. same process. they work well.

I cant figure out the Cam thing, every time I try it it just makes a mess dosnt even cut the cams it just distroys the wood I just dont get it 😪

Hi Lee, I've made a few cannons over the years, yours is good for a 1st attempt, not a criticism but we can make any size /type of cannon but one thing you definitely can not do & that is drill a fuse hole!! makes it illegal, a good friend of mine owns a foundry & they've cast plenty of cannons but they never ever drill for the fuse hole, [unless your in America, lucky devils can & they make some fantastic guns.

hello lee. b uy british ! the centec milling machine is a bench mount mill,, solid in all aspects. sturdy and rely able.. for both vertical and horizontal milling just look for centec mills .theres plenty to choose from and are more accurate than any eastern make . YOU WONT REGRET IT ! regards laurence

Strips

Something to keep in mind when you have milled a part always deburr before you measure or check for square you would be surprised how far off it will measure with the burr left on

When te radius is the same all along the fretboard, the result will be (I would say) that the edge of the fretboard is lower on the side of the body than on the headstock side. That because the fretboard is wider on the body side. Does this make sense?

Lovely machining! Would love to try and do this.

I’m not convinced that you did anything except taking it apart and putting it back together.

I went for Amadeal. VM25L with DRO and power feed. Not regretted one minute. Does everything I need to and really easy to use.

You did nothing to correct your issue. 1. The main cause of issues come at the mating surfaces- the angle on the carriage, the half ball it contacts, and then the pocket inside the moveable jaw. Go look at Kurt vise. You'll see very quickly that those surfaces are machined and possibly ground or polished on more expensive vise while these import vise simply cast them. All three surfaces are just cast and then they are what they are. Spend some time with a file, pencil grinder, soft abrasive wheel, and some polishing compound to get these surfaces as smooth as possible. Clean out the old grease and put new stuff in. Whole new vise. 2. Get out a pencil grinder and soft abrasive wheel and hit everything. Twice. Clearly part of their cost savings is no manual deburring. Unfortunately those burrs can often fall off and end up where they shouldn't. Every edge on that vise is razor sharp out of the box. EDIT- These vise certainly offer value to the hobby machinist.. heck, extremely good value. But be ready to put in the time to make them useable.. you'll make better parts because of it. I probably put 2-3 hours into mine when it was brand new so it takes time..

I got the 25L not that long ago. Was debating going for the bigger machine but actually im really happy with the 25L. For the money these are great machines.

Hi just found your channel and I like it the spinning top looks good. From Brian west germany