Wanted to thank you for this video. I was actually able to tune the ESC on my cayman pro V2 to actually be usable with this video. It's still a tight window on the FOC but it's actually usable now. I actually found making the FOC break overpoint to be as violent as possible made it mich easier to figure out if I was in it or out of it with a car that has jacked up gearing.
@TheShopMiniRC CAYMEN PRO V2 100% box stock. Neutral forward: Narrow Punch: 10 Neutral Brake: 1 Low Speed: 68 ***The low speed seems to be the key to keeping it in FOC longer I will explain best I can below*** Start Up Power: Very High Max Forwards: 100 Max Reverse: 50 Max Brake: 100 *not relevant Drag Brake: 15 * all it needs to not move holding by one wheel in air. Any high battery draw seemed faster and motor ran hotter. I'd recommend finding what you need and using as little as possible. FOC: MAX 30 ****Note on "LOW SPEED". With the tall gearing of the stellar SCX24 transmission with the FCX axle tall gearing in the rig and pinions even with portals its to much gearing for the Mini Komodo motor in the Caymen Pro V2 with 2S in my opinion. If you drop the "low speed" % much less than 60 even with the foc set to 30 the demand exceeds either the motor or the esc and it breaks out of FOC well before 30% more like 20-25% of throttle depending on load. The lower "low speed" you go the worse the problem gets. For me the sweet spot is between 65 and 75%. It's a true slow crawl and with the other settings if you have a load on the car when it breaks out of FOC ut actually loses power and just cogs a bit. It's very noticeable and easy just let off a bit and return to FOC. My next move is more voltage. I think 3S will help the problem. And I'm looking at the possibility of a MOFOs pancake motor. If what they claim about it is true I could see it helping. All criticism is welcome on my thoughts. This is a discussion, not gospel. Thanks again!
@@chrism5768 fantastic info, we will have to give these settings a try. I really wish the Furitek would just drop every pinion they put on every motor for every platform by just 1 tooth lol. It would help so many trucks (especially this setup) I hope others find your settings useful! I will pin this.
FuriCar Rules you're the first person to explain the FuriCar App so you can understand how to setup your SCX24 or other RC Car or truck very good job A+++++ Thank you so much I have looked for about two years now and finally no what everything on the App is for Ya Good Onya
Furi Car rules!! Thanks so much for taking the time to make this informative video. Have just installed into my UTB18 and it's great. Cannot believe the difference. Several of the settings and features I was kinda "unsure" about as I'm fairly new to these kind of cars, so your info was very welcome. Thanks!!
Wow I got the Python X a year ago, While is is quiet with my Holmes Hobbies Revolver 1800kv I have never been happy with the foc to running always jerky from slow crawl to running never has be smooth. I was going to give up and buy the Holmes v.3 as it works perfectly otb and is low cost. But this is the 1st video explaining what these settings do with pictures to show the effects. I have lowered my punch to 1 from 10 now no more launching of my TRX4 when I crest a hill or obstacle. So far no esc has been as smooth and responsive as my Castle Creations escs. But this goes a long way towards tweaking a close imitation of a CC esc w/o the whine. Now it's the spur gear noise that has me gritting my teeth. Thanks for this.
Furi car rules!! so glad you did this i been fumbleing around with this app for months, Also glad your video aint sped up!!! its relaxing to hear you not in over drive lol
Nice video. Thanks so much for doing this. I just bought the furitek ultimate, and a few of the features I had no clue what they did. But you make this incredibly simple and easy to understand and I really appreciate it. I totally love how many features the ultimate comes with and how customizable it is… it really puts every other esc in its rear view mirror. It’s really awesome and powerful and sleek… so much in such a tiny clean package… love your channel. Keep up the good work… 👍
I wish there would be an option for a generic outrunner that would allow for custom motor settings if you want to use a non-Furitek motor. I'm trying to get this tuned for an Injora Fat Viper on my TRX4m. Thank you very much for the great video, it's gotten me a lot closer to getting my rig optimized.
I've been using this to set my rigs now. Maybe come back and do another as firmware has been updated, new motors, new settings, and a little more on punch vs foc and throttle curve
Fantastic informational video!!! A very much needed and appreciated video. I am running the latest APP version 1.25.2, and have recently installed two Iguana Pro ESC's in my scx24's. I am using Injora 050 50T motors with helical transmissions. When programming I need to set the rotation for CCW to get the correct direction. When I do that the Max Forward, and Max Reverse go crazy. Reducing Max reverse works for forward. I also have a new Lizard Pro, and before I moved the motor wire I had the same problem. After I moved the motor wire and set it back to CW everything works perfectly. I think this might be a bug in the latest version of the APP. In addition to Max Reverse controlling forward I set Max reverse to 100%, and Max Forward to 50%, and both directions were reduced to 50%?!?!?!?
@@TheShopMiniRC I did contact Furitek, and someone called Tony Furitek replied first to say that the Max Reverse did not work??!!?? He next replied saying that they were working on updates to fix some problems. After more testing of the Lizard Pro vehicle I realized that The different sound in reverse had fooled me, and the reverse was not actually slowed down by setting the Max Reverse at 50%.
@@Thecoolcar3 hmm hard to say. Messing with the settings slowly and purposefully might be able to yield you a smoother operation. Make sure you have no binding of any kind and all Batteries are fully charged.
You explain everything very well, thanks for this. But, I have a question. Is there a way to set up an esc with the bluetooth module, save settings, then remove the bluetooth module from the esc to use on another esc? I set up my Hiroyama, with a lizard pro esc, then removed the bluetooth module and none of the settings were saved the next time I used it. Hope that's clear.
The settings should 100% be saved even if you remove the module. I’d reach out to furitek Settings are saved in the esc itself. Be sure you are actually connecting to the esc with the app when changing the settings. If it’s not connected it’s possible that it looks like it’s saving, but it’s not. Or you think it didn’t save but really it just didn’t connect yet.
Thanks for this one - played with settings most of last summer trying to eliminate the stutter at the FOC to full throttle transition. Now I get what's happening and why, maybe I can get it a bit smoother. Sounds like lower power setting in the throttle curve until just beyond FOC transition is the answer if I'm understanding correctly? Other than that, I love the Furitek setup, I wish I could tune the throttle on my 1:1 car like that!!
@@TheShopMiniRC Yeah it's all good. I can't change the bluetooth name, calibrate, and show now throttle power on Telemetry. I sent a video to Furitek. I would never have understood anything about this app without your video though!
@@TheShopMiniRC Everything is up to date and charged. I just think I have a defective ESC. Won't calibrate, can't change bluetooth name, and when the throttle is being used the telemetry shows zero. It does show RPM's, but no throttle. I'm working with Furitek but they don't seem very helpful. I will call Amainhobbies today, they have some people more familiar with it and that's where I bought it.
Awesome video thank you for all that info and I have the lizard with there Komodo and it doesn’t always go in reverse when I push the trigger in reverse any idea what could cause that
Hi Ken, very informative video. Thanks! One question, I am not a fan of FOC because I lose 'feel' which I like to have. Is it possible to turn it off completely? FX118 is on the way, so was wondering.
Only thing I can think to do is just turn it down to 0. But, I don’t think it will turn off 100%. That should get you closer to the feel you are looking for though.
Great video for someone new to the Furitek ESCs. I have notice under full throttle that my Lizard Pro "browns" out for 5-10 seconds and then comes back on-line. I still have steering during the brown out, but no throttle. After watching this video, I am wondering if the if the battery is not keeping up with the ESC draw rate.
@@TheShopMiniRC brand new 45c 2s batteries and 3.2v cutoff set helped. But it still does it. It does seem to happen when the battery is at lower voltage though. Not too keen on turning off the cutoff. Im not good at paying attention to the phone for voltage while driving.
Thank you. I can't understand that they make such a complex product and don't provide a manual that explains all features. I don't understand how this is even possible, someone thinks about and designs all these features, someone programs it and then they sell the finished product without documentation. why ?
I agree, the engineers should at least be documenting the features. We do have to remember that furitek is a fairly new company though (and they aren’t huge, like some of the bigger companies in the industry). I am sure they will get there.
I take this shortcoming as being part of the hobby. It’s like this, you can buy the best parts on the market, but if you cannot figure out how to fine tune them to optimize performance, you are still running with the average mob. My grand dad had a 1932 ford roadster that he daily drove in the 50’s. That car drove to El Mirage and made a land speed record for class B roadster with no support vehicles. He had tools, diff gears, and a carb in the trunk. He used to cast his own parts, build and balance his own wire wheels. Guess this stuff is what attracts me to these kind of hobbies
This video is so helpful! I have an AX24 with stock motor. When I installed the Lizard Pro, the motor now surges/pulsates at full throttle (either direction). Any ideas what's going on?
@@TheShopMiniRC I used a different battery & it's still doing the same. The Furicar app isn't showing the RPM. It should, correct? It's only showing the throttle position.
@@TheShopMiniRC Both are updated. I uninstalled & reinstalled the app. Firmware is at the latest: 2.2. I'm still using the stock motor, so I'm not certain which motor to select in the app, but I've selected them all with no changes. Could the Lizard Pro be bad? Here are videos showing what's happening: ruclips.net/user/shortsOrF8jDz9RJA?si=_VQKLbabx8ZxLIwL ruclips.net/user/shortsEsFrjK0WzvA?si=km0vRsYNrbjhmbu8
Hey so I downloaded the new 2.28 firmware update and checked for binding on every moving part on my rig and for some reason my motor temp is getting up to 120 degrees😅 I’m just waiting for a new update at this point hoping it can help cool this puppy down
@@TheShopMiniRC all brake settings are turned all the way down since this is in a worm driven rig, and it brakes on its own. And it’s a purple pancake motor from mofo, and before I did this 2.28 update it was running nice and cool and I haven’t done any upgrades since so now im thinking it’s just the firmware update I did.
Added this set up in my FCX24 smasher worked great then watched this and changed some settings now the motor won’t go steering works so put the old esc in and other motor same thing no motor new to this really confused and pissed can’t drive. HELP
Be 100% sure your battery is fully charged or that you have a good battery. If you are using the usb charger, you might not know your battery is bad. The esc low voltage cutoff will allow steering but no throttle.
Myself and a friend both have furitek setups in our TRX4Ms and we both have issues (stock 2s traxxas batteries) with the car randomly cutting out then continuing forward with the throttle still held down. Typically its when we're running them at high speeds. Could this be the voltage cutoff temporarily stopping the car and then resuming when the battery catches back up?
Anyone Run These On Brushed Motors? I Have A Python Pro Set To Brushed On A 180 Motor I My TRX4M For Now. I Can Not Get Drag Brake To Work. It Just Rolls Right Down Hills When I Try To Crawl. I Have It Set To 100% And Nothing.
@@TheShopMiniRC I Sent Them An Email. Also I Don't Think These Python Pros Are Rated For 4S Like They Say It Is. I Connected A 4S Battery And After 10 Seconds It Went Haywire. Before It Went Haywire The Motor And Servo Worked While Holding Vehicle In Air Then All Of A Sudden The Receiver Like Shut Off But The LEDs Were Dimly Lit. Python Pro Lights Started Flickering. Unplugged And Then Reconnected And Then The Receiver Started Rapidly Turning Off And On Flashing All The Vehicle Lights. The Python Pro Led Now Faintly Flickers And Faintly Chirps Like It's Failing To Power Up. I thought Maybe My Receiver Died As I've Never Ran That On 4S. Swapped In A Spare And Same Result. Then I Put My Injora MB100 ESC Back In And Both Receivers Work Just Fine. so The Python Pro Has Died. It Won't Connect To The App Either. Its Unresponsive On 2S Now As Well.
@@TheShopMiniRC Update: Got A Replacement Python Pro. Drag Brake Still Does Not Work On Brushed Motor. Contacted Furitek And So Far They Don't Have An Answer. Side Note, These Say They Are Rated To 4S. I Ran Mine On 4S And It Died Just Idling After 10 Seconds Of Being Powered On 4S.
@@salvatorehayes2753 Furitek said they will be putting out a firmware update for brushed drag brake soon! As for 4s, still waiting to hear back Can you give more detail about “it died” on 4s? The esc? The motor? Does it not work at all now? Smoke? You said you ran it, but then said it just sat after turning it on… did it stop while you were giving throttle? Full throttle? Partial? Reverse?
@@TheShopMiniRC I Had Been Using It On 2S And Everything Worked Except The Drag Brake However When I Connected A 4S Battery The Python Pro Powered On For About 10 Seconds. Servo And Motor Were Working. I Did A Free Air Function Check. Then As I Was Putting The Body Back On For Test Drive It Shut Down And Started Flickering My Receiver Lights And The Python Pro Lights. I Unplugged And Reconnected And Same Results. The Python Pro Is Now In Unresponsive And Won't Connect To App. All The Python Pro Does Is Intermittently Blinks Faintly And Makes A Faint Chirp Like It's Failing To Power Up. It Also Does This On 2S Battery Now. I Thought Maybe My Receiver Died So I Swapped In A Spare And The Python Does The Same Thing. I Then Swapped Back In My Original Injora MB100 Brushed ESC And Both Those Receivers Worked Confirming The Python Pro Has Died. No Smoke But It Does Run Warm In Its "Powered On" Dead State. Its A Mofo RC Torque Beast X 180 Motor. I Haven't Tried 4S On The Replacement Python Pro Because I'm Worried It's Going To Die As Well.
The furicar app is for the ESC, it’s not for the receiver or transmitter. Programming channel 3 stuff is done through the remote (if your remote can do it).
Micro Komo + Lizard Fcx18 LC80 I can seem to get my drag break adujsted even on 0. Do you need to hit accept when your done all your settings? Restart truck and remote? Also the drag break dip switches on stock remote: I have them both off and I still have 100% drag break. It would be nice to have it set at 0 on the app and use dip switches on the fly. But its not working.. weird.
It should auto save as soon as you change any parameter. The drag brake switches on the remote will no longer be functional once you stop using the 2-1 stock esc. You now set everything in the app.
I'm running a cr18p evo pro (venom motor and lizard pro esc) and it cannot freewheel (zero drag brake). The problem i think is when you select venom motor in the app you lose the advanced tab (the advanced tab shows for inrunner and Godzilla inrunner). The advanced tab is what gives you additional options such as "freewheeling" which let's you actually let off the throttle without the entire vehicle flipping due to the sudden stop. Do you know if it's ok to run a different motor in the app so I can access the freewheeling settings?
@@TheShopMiniRC thanks for the reply! You are correct, even with drag brake set to zero it still does infact have significant wheel stop. There's a few others on Reddit who have the same problem. Changing from crawler to MT doesn't fix it. The only sure way is to change from venom to inrunner and then going to advanced and then enabling freewheel. However this breaks the ACTUAL drag brake because when you set it to anything other than zero the ESC will go full throttle. So it seems to run it as it is and accept 100% drag brake all the time or run it with inrunner selected and have zero drag brake. This is why we were reaching out to people who know better lol
Trying to find out how to adjust the dual rate on the non 4ws avatar, it's got buttons for steering and throttle, but not for daul rate even though the sticker says dual rate. Ei ,it only has 4 buttons for 6 adjustments
@@SixCorSixPseSix you are connecting using normal Bluetooth. The avatar comes with a y-cable that lets you connect the rx to esc and in the middle, the Bluetooth module.
How about for the mofo RC orange pancake motor I can’t get no speed out of mine I’m running the lizard pro and their radio and receiver full trigger It just barely barely goes no speed can’t figure it out
The old school rule has always been if you can hold your finger on it for 3 seconds or longer, you’re good. lol. Also, the temp it shows is of the esc not the motor. There is no way for the esc to know the motor temp. Mine is likely so cool because I’m not actually running it.
I am having the issue that my reverse will be very hard to adjust the same as forward. It just wants to jump at really low throttle, no matter curve I set or if I even set same curve as forward. I have ajusted down the power , but it still wants to jump
I am gonna install a brushles , as soon as I find the courage to do it. I have a Furitek Komodo on my shelf. I just wanted to see what the Lizard could do on it's own first
Did you turn your servo voltage up too high? If you did you might have fried the servo. Also, check your battery in your transmitter. Try the servo in another truck if you have one. Or try another servo in your channel 1. There is nothing in the update that would make your servo stop working and really, no esc settings (except voltage) that would effect your servo.
Firmware naming convention is weird. Normally 2.15 is older than 2.2, not so with Furitek. They are using the numbers after the . numerically. 15 is numerically higher than 7 so newer. 2.15 is newer than 2.7 with Furitek.
for some reason my app will not recognize my FURITEK FCX24 MAX SMASHER TRANSMISSION WITH MINI GODZILLA BRUSHLESS , servo for steering works but nothing on the throttle. Does anyone have any thoughts. Firmware has been update ...... thoughts?
Wanted to thank you for this video. I was actually able to tune the ESC on my cayman pro V2 to actually be usable with this video. It's still a tight window on the FOC but it's actually usable now.
I actually found making the FOC break overpoint to be as violent as possible made it mich easier to figure out if I was in it or out of it with a car that has jacked up gearing.
Awesome to hear. What settings did you use?
@TheShopMiniRC
CAYMEN PRO V2 100% box stock.
Neutral forward: Narrow
Punch: 10
Neutral Brake: 1
Low Speed: 68
***The low speed seems to be the key to keeping it in FOC longer I will explain best I can below***
Start Up Power: Very High
Max Forwards: 100
Max Reverse: 50
Max Brake: 100 *not relevant
Drag Brake: 15 * all it needs to not move holding by one wheel in air. Any high battery draw seemed faster and motor ran hotter. I'd recommend finding what you need and using as little as possible.
FOC: MAX 30
****Note on "LOW SPEED".
With the tall gearing of the stellar SCX24 transmission with the FCX axle tall gearing in the rig and pinions even with portals its to much gearing for the Mini Komodo motor in the Caymen Pro V2 with 2S in my opinion. If you drop the "low speed" % much less than 60 even with the foc set to 30 the demand exceeds either the motor or the esc and it breaks out of FOC well before 30% more like 20-25% of throttle depending on load. The lower "low speed" you go the worse the problem gets. For me the sweet spot is between 65 and 75%. It's a true slow crawl and with the other settings if you have a load on the car when it breaks out of FOC ut actually loses power and just cogs a bit. It's very noticeable and easy just let off a bit and return to FOC.
My next move is more voltage. I think 3S will help the problem. And I'm looking at the possibility of a MOFOs pancake motor. If what they claim about it is true I could see it helping. All criticism is welcome on my thoughts. This is a discussion, not gospel. Thanks again!
@@chrism5768 fantastic info, we will have to give these settings a try. I really wish the Furitek would just drop every pinion they put on every motor for every platform by just 1 tooth lol. It would help so many trucks (especially this setup)
I hope others find your settings useful! I will pin this.
FuriCar Rules you're the first person to explain the FuriCar App so you can understand how to setup your SCX24 or other RC Car or truck very good job A+++++ Thank you so much I have looked for about two years now and finally no what everything on the App is for Ya Good Onya
Glad I could help! And thanks a ton!!! I hope i earned your subscription!!
I literally just got my CAYMAN PRO V2, this thing is ABSOLUTELY the BEST system out there! AMAZING. Thank you soooooo much for this video.
Glad to help!
Just got my first Furitek Lizard Pro and this is really going to help me set it up! This video is just what I needed 🤙🏻
Glad I could help!
This has helped me to dial-in my new Lizard pro/Cedar mix. Thank you @TheShopMiniRC!
@@kendotek9414 of course. Thanks for watching
Furi Car rules!! Thanks so much for taking the time to make this informative video. Have just installed into my UTB18 and it's great. Cannot believe the difference. Several of the settings and features I was kinda "unsure" about as I'm fairly new to these kind of cars, so your info was very welcome. Thanks!!
Glad it helped!
Wow I got the Python X a year ago, While is is quiet with my Holmes Hobbies Revolver 1800kv I have never been happy with the foc to running always jerky from slow crawl to running never has be smooth. I was going to give up and buy the Holmes v.3 as it works perfectly otb and is low cost. But this is the 1st video explaining what these settings do with pictures to show the effects. I have lowered my punch to 1 from 10 now no more launching of my TRX4 when I crest a hill or obstacle. So far no esc has been as smooth and responsive as my Castle Creations escs. But this goes a long way towards tweaking a close imitation of a CC esc w/o the whine. Now it's the spur gear noise that has me gritting my teeth. Thanks for this.
glad I could help. FOC definitely creates a different feel than a non-FOC esc.
Ok I’m sold on this combo. Awesome vid thanks
Glad it helped!!
Great video, I've been wanting to know a lot of answers to this particular motor. Atleast I now know what to do to overcome issues. FURITEK RULES 🤜🤛
Glad I could help!! Thanks a ton for watching.
Just found this video, Thank you very much for sharing this. Helped me figure out everything I needed to know.
Glad it was helpful!
Furi car rules!! so glad you did this i been fumbleing around with this app for months, Also glad your video aint sped up!!! its relaxing to hear you not in over drive lol
It’s still sped up lol. Just not quite as fast. Glad it helped you though!!
FuriCar rules! Thank you for the great video
Furicar Rulez! --==4 YO LIFE==--
Thank you for the in depth and informational insight into the Furicar App.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video. Thanks so much for doing this. I just bought the furitek ultimate, and a few of the features I had no clue what they did. But you make this incredibly simple and easy to understand and I really appreciate it.
I totally love how many features the ultimate comes with and how customizable it is… it really puts every other esc in its rear view mirror. It’s really awesome and powerful and sleek… so much in such a tiny clean package… love your channel. Keep up the good work… 👍
Glad I could help! Thanks a ton for watching… and… I love your last name. ;)
Thank you very much. I just installed mine 3 days ago and I've learned alot.
You're welcome!
Very helpful even for the newest Furitek setups, thank you so much!!!
You're very welcome!
I wish there would be an option for a generic outrunner that would allow for custom motor settings if you want to use a non-Furitek motor. I'm trying to get this tuned for an Injora Fat Viper on my TRX4m. Thank you very much for the great video, it's gotten me a lot closer to getting my rig optimized.
Use the normal Komodo setting for the far viper. But yeah, having some more motor tuning options would be nice.
I've been using this to set my rigs now.
Maybe come back and do another as firmware has been updated, new motors, new settings, and a little more on punch vs foc and throttle curve
;)
Just watched for the third time!! Great info!
Glad it’s helped you!
AWESOME VIDEO! It took me a while for this to sink in.
Hope it took less time with the video. ;)
@@TheShopMiniRCI figured it out by trial and error. Before I saw this video lol. I'm sure your video will save a lot of headaches though.
Cheers 🍻
Thank You so much...best video on this subject!!!!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Furicar looks amazing,
It is.
Fantastic informational video!!! A very much needed and appreciated video. I am running the latest APP version 1.25.2, and have recently installed two Iguana Pro ESC's in my scx24's. I am using Injora 050 50T motors with helical transmissions. When programming I need to set the rotation for CCW to get the correct direction. When I do that the Max Forward, and Max Reverse go crazy. Reducing Max reverse works for forward. I also have a new Lizard Pro, and before I moved the motor wire I had the same problem. After I moved the motor wire and set it back to CW everything works perfectly. I think this might be a bug in the latest version of the APP. In addition to Max Reverse controlling forward I set Max reverse to 100%, and Max Forward to 50%, and both directions were reduced to 50%?!?!?!?
Very odd, I’d shoot that info over to furitek directly. Email em.
@@TheShopMiniRC I did contact Furitek, and someone called Tony Furitek replied first to say that the Max Reverse did not work??!!?? He next replied saying that they were working on updates to fix some problems. After more testing of the Lizard Pro vehicle I realized that The different sound in reverse had fooled me, and the reverse was not actually slowed down by setting the Max Reverse at 50%.
FURITEK RULES!
Thanks for the watch!!
This was VERY helpful! I just got done following along as I tuned the new Fruitek system for the TRX4M. Thank you!
Nice!! We are about to throw some furitek fire in our TRX4Ms.
I needed that man tysm for making this video
Of course. I hope it helped
@@TheShopMiniRC it did indeed however if you mind i wanna know if theres any solution to the car stuttering without giving the torque im sure it has
@@Thecoolcar3 hmm hard to say. Messing with the settings slowly and purposefully might be able to yield you a smoother operation. Make sure you have no binding of any kind and all
Batteries are fully charged.
we need an iguana video like this
Isn’t the iguana just a brushed motor? Many of the same settings should apply.
You explain everything very well, thanks for this. But, I have a question. Is there a way to set up an esc with the bluetooth module, save settings, then remove the bluetooth module from the esc to use on another esc? I set up my Hiroyama, with a lizard pro esc, then removed the bluetooth module and none of the settings were saved the next time I used it. Hope that's clear.
The settings should 100% be saved even if you remove the module. I’d reach out to furitek
Settings are saved in the esc itself.
Be sure you are actually connecting to the esc with the app when changing the settings. If it’s not connected it’s possible that it looks like it’s saving, but it’s not. Or you think it didn’t save but really it just didn’t connect yet.
Thanks for the reply. It seems to be working now, but good to know. If it happens again, I'll contact Furitek.@@TheShopMiniRC
FuriCar rules!!
Facts.
Thank you! I needed this!
You're so welcome!
Fury car rules.. Thanks for sharing
Yes it does!
Thanks for this one - played with settings most of last summer trying to eliminate the stutter at the FOC to full throttle transition. Now I get what's happening and why, maybe I can get it a bit smoother.
Sounds like lower power setting in the throttle curve until just beyond FOC transition is the answer if I'm understanding correctly?
Other than that, I love the Furitek setup, I wish I could tune the throttle on my 1:1 car like that!!
That would be cool wouldn’t it (1:1). Be sure you update your firmware.
Great video! Did you figure out the amp telemetry?
Thanks a ton. No, not yet.
Really appreciate this video. I learned a lot, but something is wrong with mine as it won't calibrate.
Odd. Be sure all your batteries are fully charged.
@@TheShopMiniRC Yeah it's all good. I can't change the bluetooth name, calibrate, and show now throttle power on Telemetry. I sent a video to Furitek. I would never have understood anything about this app without your video though!
@@johnmontesjr be 100% sure your app is up to date as well.
@@TheShopMiniRC Everything is up to date and charged. I just think I have a defective ESC. Won't calibrate, can't change bluetooth name, and when the throttle is being used the telemetry shows zero. It does show RPM's, but no throttle. I'm working with Furitek but they don't seem very helpful. I will call Amainhobbies today, they have some people more familiar with it and that's where I bought it.
@@johnmontesjr damn. I’m sorry to hear. Furitek is usually very good with customer service. If you figure it out please let us know what it was.
Awesome video thank you for all that info and I have the lizard with there Komodo and it doesn’t always go in reverse when I push the trigger in reverse any idea what could cause that
Make sure you are on forward/reverse only mode. Other than that… very hard to say since you are saying it’s sporadic. See if you can find a pattern.
Hi Ken, very informative video. Thanks! One question, I am not a fan of FOC because I lose 'feel' which I like to have. Is it possible to turn it off completely?
FX118 is on the way, so was wondering.
Only thing I can think to do is just turn it down to 0. But, I don’t think it will turn off 100%. That should get you closer to the feel you are looking for though.
@@TheShopMiniRC Thanks a lot!
Thanks bro you got me together
Glad I could help!! I hope i earned your sub!
Great video for someone new to the Furitek ESCs. I have notice under full throttle that my Lizard Pro "browns" out for 5-10 seconds and then comes back on-line. I still have steering during the brown out, but no throttle. After watching this video, I am wondering if the if the battery is not keeping up with the ESC draw rate.
I have the same issue with the occasional brown out situation
Very possible. Try a higher c-rating and / or turn off your low voltage cutoff and see if that helps
@@TheShopMiniRC brand new 45c 2s batteries and 3.2v cutoff set helped. But it still does it. It does seem to happen when the battery is at lower voltage though. Not too keen on turning off the cutoff. Im not good at paying attention to the phone for voltage while driving.
@@jeffnewhart491 hmm. Odd. It’s gotta be the voltage of the battery dropping below cutoff on full throttle.
@@TheShopMiniRC yeah I gotta try watching the telemetry a little closer to try and see what it says when it happens.
Thank you. I can't understand that they make such a complex product and don't provide a manual that explains all features. I don't understand how this is even possible, someone thinks about and designs all these features, someone programs it and then they sell the finished product without documentation. why ?
I agree, the engineers should at least be documenting the features. We do have to remember that furitek is a fairly new company though (and they aren’t huge, like some of the bigger companies in the industry). I am sure they will get there.
They have recently started providing instructions for the newer products, I believe the lack thereof was a language barrier, not sure though.
I take this shortcoming as being part of the hobby. It’s like this, you can buy the best parts on the market, but if you cannot figure out how to fine tune them to optimize performance, you are still running with the average mob. My grand dad had a 1932 ford roadster that he daily drove in the 50’s. That car drove to El Mirage and made a land speed record for class B roadster with no support vehicles. He had tools, diff gears, and a carb in the trunk. He used to cast his own parts, build and balance his own wire wheels. Guess this stuff is what attracts me to these kind of hobbies
Furicar rules!
Yes it does!!! Thanks a ton for watching.
I don’t have one yet. But like I said on fb. Keep up the great content 👍🏻
Thanks! Will do!
This video is so helpful! I have an AX24 with stock motor. When I installed the Lizard Pro, the motor now surges/pulsates at full throttle (either direction). Any ideas what's going on?
Could be a voltage or c rating issue with the battery. Be sure the battery is fully charged and maybe try a higher c rating.
@@TheShopMiniRC I used a different battery & it's still doing the same. The Furicar app isn't showing the RPM. It should, correct? It's only showing the throttle position.
@@josephcorrell1901 it should show rpm yes. Make sure your app and the esc firmware are both updated. Make sure your esc is set to the correct motor.
@@TheShopMiniRC Both are updated. I uninstalled & reinstalled the app. Firmware is at the latest: 2.2. I'm still using the stock motor, so I'm not certain which motor to select in the app, but I've selected them all with no changes. Could the Lizard Pro be bad? Here are videos showing what's happening: ruclips.net/user/shortsOrF8jDz9RJA?si=_VQKLbabx8ZxLIwL
ruclips.net/user/shortsEsFrjK0WzvA?si=km0vRsYNrbjhmbu8
@@josephcorrell1901 I have confirmed the issue with my stuff as well, looks like a firmware issue. I am working with Furitek on it now.
thanks this video helped alot
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching.
Nice Ken!
Thanks a ton for the watch!
This video helped me so much. Thank you
I'm so glad it helped you out! Be sure to give a sub and check out our giveaway video!
Thanks a lot!!!!
Thank you for watchin!!!!
Nice! Thank you!!
Thank you for the viewership!
Greetings mate! Could you please recommend an esc and motor upgrade for my fms fcx18 lc80? I damaged everything by running it in salty water.
Obviously I love the furitek stuff! But anything that will work in an fcx18 or fcx24 will go in. ;)
Can you Show us what your current settings are ? I have the same motor and esc but i cant get rid of the 'coging' .. any Tips?
I have many many trucks with different settings. It’s really just a matter of getting it as optimal as possible.
Thank you👍👍
Welcome 👍
Could that FOC jump at 37% also be due to the jump in throttle curve?
Yeah, possibly.
Hey so I downloaded the new 2.28 firmware update and checked for binding on every moving part on my rig and for some reason my motor temp is getting up to 120 degrees😅 I’m just waiting for a new update at this point hoping it can help cool this puppy down
Check your drag brake. Be sure to turn it down and be sure you’re on the correct motor
@@TheShopMiniRC all brake settings are turned all the way down since this is in a worm driven rig, and it brakes on its own. And it’s a purple pancake motor from mofo, and before I did this 2.28 update it was running nice and cool and I haven’t done any upgrades since so now im thinking it’s just the firmware update I did.
@@braddahdussifyoumuss596 consider reverting to a previous update and see if it gets better.
@@TheShopMiniRC will do thanks for the response 🤙🏽
Thank you
Welcome!
Added this set up in my FCX24 smasher worked great then watched this and changed some settings now the motor won’t go steering works so put the old esc in and other motor same thing no motor new to this really confused and pissed can’t drive. HELP
Be 100% sure your battery is fully charged or that you have a good battery. If you are using the usb charger, you might not know your battery is bad. The esc low voltage cutoff will allow steering but no throttle.
Myself and a friend both have furitek setups in our TRX4Ms and we both have issues (stock 2s traxxas batteries) with the car randomly cutting out then continuing forward with the throttle still held down. Typically its when we're running them at high speeds. Could this be the voltage cutoff temporarily stopping the car and then resuming when the battery catches back up?
Yep. try turning down (or even better, to test, OFF) the LVC.
Anyone Run These On Brushed Motors? I Have A Python Pro Set To Brushed On A 180 Motor I My TRX4M For Now. I Can Not Get Drag Brake To Work. It Just Rolls Right Down Hills When I Try To Crawl. I Have It Set To 100% And Nothing.
Good question, I haven’t tried a brushed motor. Maybe shoot an email to furitek.
@@TheShopMiniRC I Sent Them An Email. Also I Don't Think These Python Pros Are Rated For 4S Like They Say It Is. I Connected A 4S Battery And After 10 Seconds It Went Haywire. Before It Went Haywire The Motor And Servo Worked While Holding Vehicle In Air Then All Of A Sudden The Receiver Like Shut Off But The LEDs Were Dimly Lit. Python Pro Lights Started Flickering. Unplugged And Then Reconnected And Then The Receiver Started Rapidly Turning Off And On Flashing All The Vehicle Lights. The Python Pro Led Now Faintly Flickers And Faintly Chirps Like It's Failing To Power Up. I thought Maybe My Receiver Died As I've Never Ran That On 4S. Swapped In A Spare And Same Result. Then I Put My Injora MB100 ESC Back In And Both Receivers Work Just Fine. so The Python Pro Has Died. It Won't Connect To The App Either. Its Unresponsive On 2S Now As Well.
@@TheShopMiniRC Update: Got A Replacement Python Pro. Drag Brake Still Does Not Work On Brushed Motor. Contacted Furitek And So Far They Don't Have An Answer. Side Note, These Say They Are Rated To 4S. I Ran Mine On 4S And It Died Just Idling After 10 Seconds Of Being Powered On 4S.
@@salvatorehayes2753 Furitek said they will be putting out a firmware update for brushed drag brake soon! As for 4s, still waiting to hear back
Can you give more detail about “it died” on 4s? The esc? The motor? Does it not work at all now? Smoke? You said you ran it, but then said it just sat after turning it on… did it stop while you were giving throttle? Full throttle? Partial? Reverse?
@@TheShopMiniRC I Had Been Using It On 2S And Everything Worked Except The Drag Brake However When I Connected A 4S Battery The Python Pro Powered On For About 10 Seconds. Servo And Motor Were Working. I Did A Free Air Function Check. Then As I Was Putting The Body Back On For Test Drive It Shut Down And Started Flickering My Receiver Lights And The Python Pro Lights. I Unplugged And Reconnected And Same Results. The Python Pro Is Now In Unresponsive And Won't Connect To App. All The Python Pro Does Is Intermittently Blinks Faintly And Makes A Faint Chirp Like It's Failing To Power Up. It Also Does This On 2S Battery Now. I Thought Maybe My Receiver Died So I Swapped In A Spare And The Python Does The Same Thing. I Then Swapped Back In My Original Injora MB100 Brushed ESC And Both Those Receivers Worked Confirming The Python Pro Has Died. No Smoke But It Does Run Warm In Its "Powered On" Dead State.
Its A Mofo RC Torque Beast X 180 Motor. I Haven't Tried 4S On The Replacement Python Pro Because I'm Worried It's Going To Die As Well.
Can you program ch 3 with this? Been trying to figure out how to map that button.
The furicar app is for the ESC, it’s not for the receiver or transmitter. Programming channel 3 stuff is done through the remote (if your remote can do it).
Micro Komo + Lizard Fcx18 LC80
I can seem to get my drag break adujsted even on 0.
Do you need to hit accept when your done all your settings?
Restart truck and remote?
Also the drag break dip switches on stock remote:
I have them both off and I still have 100% drag break.
It would be nice to have it set at 0 on the app and use dip switches on the fly.
But its not working.. weird.
It should auto save as soon as you change any parameter. The drag brake switches on the remote will no longer be functional once you stop using the 2-1 stock esc. You now set everything in the app.
Furicar rules
Yeah it does!
Very big question where is the steering at mine is backwards
That is not an esc setting. That is a transmitter setting. On the remote you can reverse your channel 1 and channel 2.
furi-app rules
Yeah it does!!!
I'm running a cr18p evo pro (venom motor and lizard pro esc) and it cannot freewheel (zero drag brake). The problem i think is when you select venom motor in the app you lose the advanced tab (the advanced tab shows for inrunner and Godzilla inrunner). The advanced tab is what gives you additional options such as "freewheeling" which let's you actually let off the throttle without the entire vehicle flipping due to the sudden stop. Do you know if it's ok to run a different motor in the app so I can access the freewheeling settings?
So even with 0 drag brake you’re getting a lot of wheel stop? It’s the monster truck setting that gets you free wheeling.
@@TheShopMiniRC thanks for the reply! You are correct, even with drag brake set to zero it still does infact have significant wheel stop. There's a few others on Reddit who have the same problem. Changing from crawler to MT doesn't fix it. The only sure way is to change from venom to inrunner and then going to advanced and then enabling freewheel. However this breaks the ACTUAL drag brake because when you set it to anything other than zero the ESC will go full throttle. So it seems to run it as it is and accept 100% drag brake all the time or run it with inrunner selected and have zero drag brake. This is why we were reaching out to people who know better lol
Trying to find out how to adjust the dual rate on the non 4ws avatar, it's got buttons for steering and throttle, but not for daul rate even though the sticker says dual rate.
Ei ,it only has 4 buttons for 6 adjustments
Worked it out
End points is basically dual rate. You can also use exponential. ;)
Glad you figured it out. What was the solution?
They didn’t have a setting for the pancake motor in motor type which type Do I set it at do you know
Komodo
I’m gonna have to watch this a few times to digest this, I’m kind of a curmudgeon
It will always be here for your reference.
Are you running the avatar system?
I have the avatar on a few trucks yes.
@@TheShopMiniRC how are you connecting to the furi app with the avatar system?
@@SixCorSixPseSix you are connecting using normal Bluetooth.
The avatar comes with a y-cable that lets you connect the rx to esc and in the middle, the Bluetooth module.
Is it possible I fired my lizard pro ? When I was installing I had the battery backwards and saw smoke . Now my motor won’t turn ? Any idea 😢
Ooof. Yep, fried. Do not EVER plug in the battery backwards, or into the motor port.
Can I bypass the lizard to get it running ?
@@tylerfreeland8079 well, no…. You need an esc to power the motor and receiver.
Dead
How about for the mofo RC orange pancake motor I can’t get no speed out of mine I’m running the lizard pro and their radio and receiver full trigger It just barely barely goes no speed can’t figure it out
That’s seems very odd. We don’t have an orange pancake to test. Maybe ask mofo.
Throttle trim set low
How do you set it up for 3s lipo
Nothing needs to happen. You just plug in a 3s
the jump you keep mentioning is in your throttle curve my dude
Thanks
My motor it runs at 124 deg? is this normal. i see on yours is at 76deg
The old school rule has always been if you can hold your finger on it for 3 seconds or longer, you’re good. lol. Also, the temp it shows is of the esc not the motor. There is no way for the esc to know the motor temp. Mine is likely so cool because I’m not actually running it.
If you're talking Farenheit, you are fine. In Celsius... that's bad🤣
What radio is that?
Turbo Racing.
I am having the issue that my reverse will be very hard to adjust the same as forward. It just wants to jump at really low throttle, no matter curve I set or if I even set same curve as forward. I have ajusted down the power , but it still wants to jump
Even if you use “set same data for throttle reverse”?
yes, it is almost worse
I am gonna install a brushles , as soon as I find the courage to do it. I have a Furitek Komodo on my shelf. I just wanted to see what the Lizard could do on it's own first
So what should low voltage be set at
We usually do 3.2 - 3.4
I have a 9imod 1850 Kv outrunner motor that I plan to pair with this esc, What do I set it at?
I’d set it to a micro komodo.
@@TheShopMiniRC This is for a 1/10th set up sorry I missed mentioning that
@@iandurham81 ah. In that case I am not totally sure. Sorry :(
Anything new with this?
there have been minor updates, but overall the same
hey i did my update i adjust my steering and now my servo doesn't work ...
Did you turn your servo voltage up too high? If you did you might have fried the servo. Also, check your battery in your transmitter.
Try the servo in another truck if you have one. Or try another servo in your channel 1.
There is nothing in the update that would make your servo stop working and really, no esc settings (except voltage) that would effect your servo.
Firmware naming convention is weird.
Normally 2.15 is older than 2.2, not so with Furitek.
They are using the numbers after the . numerically.
15 is numerically higher than 7 so newer.
2.15 is newer than 2.7 with Furitek.
This is true.
Holy Crap, I completely did not know that they were numbering like that! THANK YOU! That is just silly.
for some reason my app will not recognize my FURITEK FCX24 MAX SMASHER TRANSMISSION WITH MINI GODZILLA BRUSHLESS , servo for steering works but nothing on the throttle. Does anyone have any thoughts. Firmware has been update ...... thoughts?
be 100% sure you have a good battery that's fully charged. Sounds like a low voltage cut off.
Dude, I just realised I didn’t subscribe aaaaah!!
Well we hope you did now! Lol thanks!
@@TheShopMiniRC yeah I’ve subscribed now, thank you. I’m enjoying the videos
@@JiluMiah-ek2rd huge thanks!! Be sure to share any videos you really like on social media !!