Wow I am truly blown away by the quality of your video/overview! The build is so sick as well! Thanks for all the support and I had to sub to the channel🤘🏻🤘🏻also the front lower high clearance really has no benefit as it creates a more harsh transition to the skid, this is not only on the v3CC but in cases of most all rails in my opinion, even 0deg skids I still run straights. Keep up the amazing videos!
Dude! Direct from the man himself! Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you think I did your chassis justice. I appreciate you creating such a capable platform! 🤝🤝🤝
Mini pen springs on the shock shaft inside the front shock does wonders. Keeps the front end down. Only issue is you need longer shocks because the pen spring does take away some of the travel. Another 10mm longer shocks all around with pen springs. Trust me.. night and day difference
@@archerash6695 dude thanks for all your tips. Yeah I’m actually trying out this reverse internal spring shock idea on another rig. I get what you mean, the front sucks down as it climbs getting all that traction down. Feels a bit odd at first but whatever works!
🤯🤯🤯 Sweet rig, bruv 😎 I love the injora silicone inserts🤘🏽🤘🏽🤘🏽I use yellow and green simultaneously: the softer of the two is used on the front, and the stiffer is used in the back. Your LGRP TRENCHERS and their compound is ideal. I am sure your pragmatic approach and mechanical aptitude will understand this method. However, I will explain: the softer front helps to grab on ascents and break over; it’s like human hands and arms when rock climbing, and when descending they compress from the front biased weight, which allows the rig to hug its terrain. Additionally, I have run a wider LGRP tire on rear (due to tire specs), and more narrow for front; this allows a few MORE millimeters of width for stability in the rear, and a few LESS millimeters in front for clearing gates. Tire examples for your build: (rear tire) INJORA 1.0" 64*24mm S5 Super Soft Sticky Rock Crawling Tires; (front tire) LGRP Black Label M/T 63mm in height and 21mm in width. Feel free to try, I hope you enjoy the results. Thanks for the amazing content and ideas!!! ☮️and❤️ Bobby Lee
@@wivlle thanks for watching Bobby and I appreciate your tips. Yeah I actually have been thinking about trying a stagger wheel fitment with slightly wider rear. Similar to what you’re doing by using wider tires in the back. It does help on my 1:1 rig so I figure I should also see benefit on my 1:24. I definitely will also test out different insert setups. Actually I just got a set of OGRC purple, OMG even softer than Injora yellow.
You should have gone with the injora big bore so you atleast have 40mm of flex . I decided to actualy just rebuild my cheat code again . I am going to try the Lgrp super 8 . I don’t really like the link mounts on them though , but I atleast did get them installed just took some figuring out . I also went with rear facing the motor and I grabbed a few boa mounts from prophet I am waiting on for mues and regular axles . This way I can place my ESC in front of the transmission instead of side mounting it . Possibly my reciever may fit there aswell we shall see . I went with c10 front dead bolt rears .
I love the wheel and face combination you went with here. They look incredible. I ended up using HR big bore oil shocks in the rear and the slightly shorter Pro-Line shocks in the front to limit their uphill travel without using a limiting strap. The Pro-Line shocks work fine, but the HR shocks are sticky after sitting for a while. Is this your experience with the HR shocks? What oil weight did you go with and how much did you use? I'm just wondering if I may have over filled them. Nice build Brother!
It blew my mind when I found out the patterns line up. As for those HR shocks, they are not sticky for me. My Injora 39mm and 40mm big bores both get sticky after sitting, but for some reason not these HR's. I put 40 wt. (500cst) in them. I didn't measure but my best guess is I left about 4mm empty.
Wheel bolts shouldnt really hit much. The tire side wall should do all the work. Personally I dont run scale hardware on a comp rig. Just fancy trail trucks and shelf queens.
Man I love this rig, youre explenation really helpes me out on my new build. unfortunately mazz designs is sold out. Do you remember where your body is from? Can't figure it out on the video.
@@NS-cd5yg thanks man, but dude in hindsight I don’t recommend this body. It’s a bit too long. It’s from the Furitek Cayman Pro or Hobbyplus CR18P Evo Pro. I’m gonna replace it soon.
@@Angerhaus thanks for your reply! Looking forward to see the fine tuning! Also if you are not satisfied with the UD/OD. You can maybe try injora underdrive for stock rear axles. Im also debating on doing this to my Meus axles, not sure how it will turn out though, just thinking out loud
@@NS-cd5yg haha yeah I did eventually opened my rear axle to confirm I have the right gears in it. I dunno why it just doesn’t feel like a combined 47% OD. I’m actually working on a rig with 33% OD front and 33% UD rear. I’ve not tried this much combined OD before. If I like it, I’ll do it to this rig too.
@@Angerhaus yeah I had the same feeling. But I meant the original Axial rear diff gears should be allready more underdriven then the original Meus ones, so swapping those out should make more underdrive. And you can go even wilder with underdrive axial versions. the rears should be swappable they said. P.s. at this moment I cant chose between the XL or normal cheatcode😅
Thanks dude, I just added it. I see a couple of different ones on Etsy. The one in this video is by V.ENG. Doesn't fit the front because this rig is slammed. There is also diff sliders by SDRC. They're a different shape. I ordered a set to see if I can fit one on my front axle.
Wow I am truly blown away by the quality of your video/overview! The build is so sick as well! Thanks for all the support and I had to sub to the channel🤘🏻🤘🏻also the front lower high clearance really has no benefit as it creates a more harsh transition to the skid, this is not only on the v3CC but in cases of most all rails in my opinion, even 0deg skids I still run straights. Keep up the amazing videos!
Dude! Direct from the man himself! Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you think I did your chassis justice. I appreciate you creating such a capable platform! 🤝🤝🤝
The reason the front lower links are not bent is because you want a smooth transition to the bottom of the skid.
I know u
Oh! Yeah that makes a lot of sense. Thank you!
Mini pen springs on the shock shaft inside the front shock does wonders.
Keeps the front end down.
Only issue is you need longer shocks because the pen spring does take away some of the travel.
Another 10mm longer shocks all around with pen springs.
Trust me.. night and day difference
@@archerash6695 dude thanks for all your tips. Yeah I’m actually trying out this reverse internal spring shock idea on another rig. I get what you mean, the front sucks down as it climbs getting all that traction down. Feels a bit odd at first but whatever works!
Great content. Great thought to video. Easy to follow
Appreciate the kind words 🙏
Awesome setup. Nice 👍🏾🔥💯
@@OGRadGrow thanks dude!
Super cool build md ccv3 is an awesome chassis. Your videos are always amazing. Keep killing it.
Ayye dude, appreciate your continued support!
🤯🤯🤯
Sweet rig, bruv 😎
I love the injora silicone inserts🤘🏽🤘🏽🤘🏽I use yellow and green simultaneously: the softer of the two is used on the front, and the stiffer is used in the back. Your LGRP TRENCHERS and their compound is ideal. I am sure your pragmatic approach and mechanical aptitude will understand this method. However, I will explain: the softer front helps to grab on ascents and break over; it’s like human hands and arms when rock climbing, and when descending they compress from the front biased weight, which allows the rig to hug its terrain. Additionally, I have run a wider LGRP tire on rear (due to tire specs), and more narrow for front; this allows a few MORE millimeters of width for stability in the rear, and a few LESS millimeters in front for clearing gates. Tire examples for your build: (rear tire) INJORA 1.0" 64*24mm S5 Super Soft Sticky Rock Crawling Tires; (front tire) LGRP Black Label M/T 63mm in height and 21mm in width. Feel free to try, I hope you enjoy the results.
Thanks for the amazing content and ideas!!!
☮️and❤️
Bobby Lee
@@wivlle thanks for watching Bobby and I appreciate your tips. Yeah I actually have been thinking about trying a stagger wheel fitment with slightly wider rear. Similar to what you’re doing by using wider tires in the back. It does help on my 1:1 rig so I figure I should also see benefit on my 1:24. I definitely will also test out different insert setups. Actually I just got a set of OGRC purple, OMG even softer than Injora yellow.
Thank you for this video, explaining each step and thought process is really interesting, i learned a lot!
@@Petrum you’re welcome! I’m still learning too!
Impressive! Great informative video.
Nice truck & very good crawling 👍
And perfect place for crawling.
@@small.and.even.smaller appreciate the kind words, dude!
Lengthen front lower links. That will kick your pinion down changing your drive shaft angle.
You should have gone with the injora big bore so you atleast have 40mm of flex . I decided to actualy just rebuild my cheat code again . I am going to try the Lgrp super 8 . I don’t really like the link mounts on them though , but I atleast did get them installed just took some figuring out . I also went with rear facing the motor and I grabbed a few boa mounts from prophet I am waiting on for mues and regular axles . This way I can place my ESC in front of the transmission instead of side mounting it . Possibly my reciever may fit there aswell we shall see . I went with c10 front dead bolt rears .
You just named a bunch of things I wanna try on a future class 3 build! These are some great ideas, thanks!
awesome build! tires i can personally vouch for are the lgrp black labels or the jconcepts ruptures but those are banned in sorca events
Oh, I actually have set of them black labels in 57mm still in the bag for a scale build. Should’ve opened them sooner to have a feel.
@@Angerhaus the black labels are some of the softest tires I've personally tried
Lmfao "I didn't know what I didn't know" thankyou so well said
@@lgrc6120 coming to terms with my ignorance 😂
Thanks for this great video.
@@ripomarc6090 thank you for watching!
Need some axle caster if it’s a comp build
By adjusting the length of the front links?
I love the wheel and face combination you went with here. They look incredible. I ended up using HR big bore oil shocks in the rear and the slightly shorter Pro-Line shocks in the front to limit their uphill travel without using a limiting strap. The Pro-Line shocks work fine, but the HR shocks are sticky after sitting for a while. Is this your experience with the HR shocks? What oil weight did you go with and how much did you use? I'm just wondering if I may have over filled them. Nice build Brother!
It blew my mind when I found out the patterns line up. As for those HR shocks, they are not sticky for me. My Injora 39mm and 40mm big bores both get sticky after sitting, but for some reason not these HR's. I put 40 wt. (500cst) in them. I didn't measure but my best guess is I left about 4mm empty.
@@Angerhaus Much appreciated Brother!
Nice.
@@charliebrown6883 thanks!
Wheel bolts shouldnt really hit much. The tire side wall should do all the work.
Personally I dont run scale hardware on a comp rig.
Just fancy trail trucks and shelf queens.
Man I love this rig, youre explenation really helpes me out on my new build. unfortunately mazz designs is sold out. Do you remember where your body is from? Can't figure it out on the video.
@@NS-cd5yg thanks man, but dude in hindsight I don’t recommend this body. It’s a bit too long. It’s from the Furitek Cayman Pro or Hobbyplus CR18P Evo Pro. I’m gonna replace it soon.
@@Angerhaus thanks for your reply! Looking forward to see the fine tuning! Also if you are not satisfied with the UD/OD. You can maybe try injora underdrive for stock rear axles. Im also debating on doing this to my Meus axles, not sure how it will turn out though, just thinking out loud
@@NS-cd5yg haha yeah I did eventually opened my rear axle to confirm I have the right gears in it. I dunno why it just doesn’t feel like a combined 47% OD. I’m actually working on a rig with 33% OD front and 33% UD rear. I’ve not tried this much combined OD before. If I like it, I’ll do it to this rig too.
@@Angerhaus yeah I had the same feeling. But I meant the original Axial rear diff gears should be allready more underdriven then the original Meus ones, so swapping those out should make more underdrive. And you can go even wilder with underdrive axial versions. the rears should be swappable they said.
P.s. at this moment I cant chose between the XL or normal cheatcode😅
How do you think it compares to the rampcrab chassis ?
This is definitely superior. I like the extra skid angle and the ability to mount outboard rear links.
How much did the build cost?
So what parts from the scx was used for this build?
Your front upper links are upside down. Flip them and the motor will fit.
What transmission is that? Stock scx24 with a injora aluminum shell?
@@Expedition.Kitchen just Furitek housing and gears that came as a kit with motor
What battery are you going to use on the slider
@@Expedition.Kitchen I got this tiny little 300mah 3s that fits on the slider
@Angerhaus do you have a link for it? Love your build
4:44 you forgot the link to this slider thing.
Thanks dude, I just added it. I see a couple of different ones on Etsy. The one in this video is by V.ENG. Doesn't fit the front because this rig is slammed. There is also diff sliders by SDRC. They're a different shape. I ordered a set to see if I can fit one on my front axle.
What body
Furitek Cayman Pro
@@Angerhaus was the body clear when you got it or did you paint over one of the spare bodies? All I can find to purchase are pre-painted bodies.