Wow I am truly blown away by the quality of your video/overview! The build is so sick as well! Thanks for all the support and I had to sub to the channel🤘🏻🤘🏻also the front lower high clearance really has no benefit as it creates a more harsh transition to the skid, this is not only on the v3CC but in cases of most all rails in my opinion, even 0deg skids I still run straights. Keep up the amazing videos!
Dude! Direct from the man himself! Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you think I did your chassis justice. I appreciate you creating such a capable platform! 🤝🤝🤝
Very nice build along. I enjoyed seeing you hit challenges and then overcome them. And also, the truck itself will be doing similarly on the course. Great job all around. Now go win some trophies!
Super cool sandstone formations! Sometimes it takes a few sessions to discover all the different lines. Plus you can always scrounge around for rocks to add into the spot. Beautiful build. I just rando bumped into your vid and will check out more. Thanks!
A short note on the transmitter as I’m reaching the end of the video, I’d say fancy and expensive transmitters are mostly useless like you said, I agree, but having at least the ability to adjust end points individually and not just dual rates is pretty great. Main reason why I got a flysky gt5. While not extra cheap, it’s no Noble or 400€ futaba either. Don’t know about you but all my rigs steer further on one side compared to the other so I compensate this with the end point adjustment on the transmitter.
@@Crawlinski I was taught for those transmitters without EPA, using a combination of Trim and DR essentially has the same effect. I think it’s worked out well for all my rigs that aren’t paired to my Flysky G7P transmitter (this one has EPA). Even for this isokinetic axle, my DR is at 80%. I do sometimes max it out mid-run to get that last bit steering angle out of the servo though. But yeah I hear what you are saying, it’s not as precise.
First let me say very nicely put together video. easy to follow along. that being said I have used that tamiya color shift paint and several other variants of it many times. It is very deceptive when applying the first couple of coats. You dont see it, and think you need more, but a very light coat is all that is needed. It relies heavily on the backing color. black is good to bring out the darker purple but only if the base coat (color shift) is applied very lightly. i used clear disposable spoons to experiment with different thicknesses of color shift. I rerally like to back it with candy red then silver. There are so many cool colors you can make with it.
Dude I wish I knew! The first few layers I was wondering why I couldn't see any colours. Mine came out too pink rather than purple because I sprayed it too thick. Definitely worth revisiting this paint again in the future!
🤯🤯🤯 Sweet rig, bruv 😎 I love the injora silicone inserts🤘🏽🤘🏽🤘🏽I use yellow and green simultaneously: the softer of the two is used on the front, and the stiffer is used in the back. Your LGRP TRENCHERS and their compound is ideal. I am sure your pragmatic approach and mechanical aptitude will understand this method. However, I will explain: the softer front helps to grab on ascents and break over; it’s like human hands and arms when rock climbing, and when descending they compress from the front biased weight, which allows the rig to hug its terrain. Additionally, I have run a wider LGRP tire on rear (due to tire specs), and more narrow for front; this allows a few MORE millimeters of width for stability in the rear, and a few LESS millimeters in front for clearing gates. Tire examples for your build: (rear tire) INJORA 1.0" 64*24mm S5 Super Soft Sticky Rock Crawling Tires; (front tire) LGRP Black Label M/T 63mm in height and 21mm in width. Feel free to try, I hope you enjoy the results. Thanks for the amazing content and ideas!!! ☮️and❤️ Bobby Lee
@@wivlle thanks for watching Bobby and I appreciate your tips. Yeah I actually have been thinking about trying a stagger wheel fitment with slightly wider rear. Similar to what you’re doing by using wider tires in the back. It does help on my 1:1 rig so I figure I should also see benefit on my 1:24. I definitely will also test out different insert setups. Actually I just got a set of OGRC purple, OMG even softer than Injora yellow.
I understand this video is a few months old, but just wanted to point something out that I noticed in your build. The reason you ran into issues with installing your Micro Komodo has to do with your links having been installed in a weird orientation. The bends on the front uppers should be facing downward, which provides more clearance up front for a forward-facing motor. I say this because I loosely followed your video for my first ever crawler build (very informative by the way, helped a lot). But I actually had to purchase a Micro after my Mini-install ran into some issues as it would rub the driver side chassis rail slightly. This is more due to my transmission though (LGRP MR24) as it offsets the motor quite a bit compared to the Furitek Stellar. Just thought I'd point that out but my Micro clears my links, driveshaft, as well as my front body mount.
Yeah, I admit i didn't try different orientations with those front upper links cuz my fingers were pretty sore at that point after having rotated the rear upper ones plenty of times to set them up right for outboard. haha Actually.. I think my problem was more with the driveshaft hitting the motor in the front. I got a centered motor mount for Micro Komodo from V.ENG. That should fix the issue.
@@Angerhaus Great to hear! Again your video was sort of the push that made me go with the Mazz Designs chassis and I've been impressed with how much room it gives you to customize things. Another motor plate I recently learned about is Akers; really helps to center your motor. In my case I went with the LGRP MR24. Word of caution, the transmission offsets the motor quite a bit and would make a Mini Komodo hit the chassis so a Micro (or similar) is required.
You got to look up my 3 flow 9 roller bearing steering link that works amazing he's got all kinds of cool stuff and if you guys run those kinetic like winches all it is a piece of bungee cord he's got some really cool hooks
Listen if you're running into problems like that get you one of those little shock spacers from injora and put a couple millimeter spacer in between the transmission and skid run your screw up through the bottom of the skid through the spacer and into the transmission and it'll give you just those couple millimeters of wiggle room
Mini pen springs on the shock shaft inside the front shock does wonders. Keeps the front end down. Only issue is you need longer shocks because the pen spring does take away some of the travel. Another 10mm longer shocks all around with pen springs. Trust me.. night and day difference
@@RedLakeArchery dude thanks for all your tips. Yeah I’m actually trying out this reverse internal spring shock idea on another rig. I get what you mean, the front sucks down as it climbs getting all that traction down. Feels a bit odd at first but whatever works!
And if you want one of the fastest servos on the market definitely check out shift RC their Servo will shake the rig all the way around in a circle if you're running 8.4 and one of the strongest and fastest is the mofo Servo Beast also Holmes Hobby has an amazing Servo that I don't hear a lot of people talk about is super super busy man like the servo horn I'm pretty sure it's a 3 mm screw it's crazy
Wheel bolts shouldnt really hit much. The tire side wall should do all the work. Personally I dont run scale hardware on a comp rig. Just fancy trail trucks and shelf queens.
You should have gone with the injora big bore so you atleast have 40mm of flex . I decided to actualy just rebuild my cheat code again . I am going to try the Lgrp super 8 . I don’t really like the link mounts on them though , but I atleast did get them installed just took some figuring out . I also went with rear facing the motor and I grabbed a few boa mounts from prophet I am waiting on for mues and regular axles . This way I can place my ESC in front of the transmission instead of side mounting it . Possibly my reciever may fit there aswell we shall see . I went with c10 front dead bolt rears .
Oh yeah, I updated the link to the new body I’m currently using now because after actually running the old body I realized it’s too long even for this gladiator wheelbase. The old body is from the CR18P EVO PRO.
Re: the motor interference with the Micro Komo.: Could you use washers or even make a thin wedge plate for mounting the trans to angle the motor up in the front a bit to get the leading edge of the can out of the way of the links/drive shaft? Might only need a mm or 2 to get the needed clearance and looks like there's enough drive shaft angle to spare so not to cause binding issues. Just a thought. :)
@@wingnutbert9685 that’s a good tip I never thought of. Actually I’ve ordered V.ENG’s centered motor mount cuz I know I am gonna run into that problem again.
What size on the Mazz links? I see 3 different types on the website. Wanting to match this build and needed confirmation. If you could let me know that would be awesome, great build!
@@doughthejoke8042 forgot to mention… I dunno how much you wanna match but i already ditched the body. This body is a tad bit too long the nose kept bumping into things.
@@Angerhaus thank you for the quick response. Getting everything typed up and see it on paper and go from there. I’ll let you know if I have any other questions! Thanks!
Starting to buy some things today. Noticed the CCV3 TI is out of stock. Is the Carbon fiber one okay or would you highly recommend waiting for the Titanium one to come back in stock. Says the Carbon fiber one is 9.3 gram lighter.
@ I honestly don’t think there should be much discernible difference in performance between the two. I got titanium just because I want the rails to be more visible.
I love the wheel and face combination you went with here. They look incredible. I ended up using HR big bore oil shocks in the rear and the slightly shorter Pro-Line shocks in the front to limit their uphill travel without using a limiting strap. The Pro-Line shocks work fine, but the HR shocks are sticky after sitting for a while. Is this your experience with the HR shocks? What oil weight did you go with and how much did you use? I'm just wondering if I may have over filled them. Nice build Brother!
It blew my mind when I found out the patterns line up. As for those HR shocks, they are not sticky for me. My Injora 39mm and 40mm big bores both get sticky after sitting, but for some reason not these HR's. I put 40 wt. (500cst) in them. I didn't measure but my best guess is I left about 4mm empty.
Wait a minute you said you're running underdrive plus an additional 33% overdrive that is a lot the most I've ever ran as in my glass and it is 37 percent I run a overdriven transmission turned forward with the motor and then I run 23% in the front end
@@Angerhaus I ordered myself a chassis, titanium short with double bends. Gonna try it out with Mofo parts, engine servo esc and maybe axles too. This will be my first build, have 2 RTR from before. Your video is good inspiration 4 my build, tnxs and keep it up!
@@Angerhaus I have sendt a mail to Mofo to help me figure out what engine and drivetrain i should go for, but havent got an answer yet. On one of my RTR, this Slayer Prime ruclips.net/video/jzSO6RG3jEQ/видео.html, i have Mofo NanoBam and (drivetrain + esc i think) and it drives very smooth. Thats why i wanna try to go with Mofo on the new build. Also the size of the drivetrain + motor is small so hopefully would work with the 15 skid angle.
Man I love this rig, youre explenation really helpes me out on my new build. unfortunately mazz designs is sold out. Do you remember where your body is from? Can't figure it out on the video.
@@NS-cd5yg thanks man, but dude in hindsight I don’t recommend this body. It’s a bit too long. It’s from the Furitek Cayman Pro or Hobbyplus CR18P Evo Pro. I’m gonna replace it soon.
@@Angerhaus thanks for your reply! Looking forward to see the fine tuning! Also if you are not satisfied with the UD/OD. You can maybe try injora underdrive for stock rear axles. Im also debating on doing this to my Meus axles, not sure how it will turn out though, just thinking out loud
@@NS-cd5yg haha yeah I did eventually opened my rear axle to confirm I have the right gears in it. I dunno why it just doesn’t feel like a combined 47% OD. I’m actually working on a rig with 33% OD front and 33% UD rear. I’ve not tried this much combined OD before. If I like it, I’ll do it to this rig too.
@@Angerhaus yeah I had the same feeling. But I meant the original Axial rear diff gears should be allready more underdriven then the original Meus ones, so swapping those out should make more underdrive. And you can go even wilder with underdrive axial versions. the rears should be swappable they said. P.s. at this moment I cant chose between the XL or normal cheatcode😅
In your opinion as of right now what’s the best comp chassis purely for performance for the gladiator wheelbase? I want this chassis but it’s always out of stock so I might resort to a different one, also have you tried the hobbywing mini24 brushless setup?
Frankly, I haven't tried that many custom chassis to give advice. Other than this Cheat Code V.3, I only have Karnage Alien V2, RampCrab LCG, and DBRC Gila Monster (TRX4m). The Mazz is miles beyond, it is the only true comp chassis out of these custom chassis. I personally think it's worth the wait. I signed up to his mailing list so I was notified of the drop in advance. I actually have a NW Athos right now, but I haven't built it yet. I can tell this is going to give Mazz a run for his money. Perhaps consider that. I'd also give V.ENG Gatekeeper a look. That also seem like a very competitive option. No, I haven't tried Hobbywing Mini24 yet. I had HW on 1/10th so I was curious. But after watching a few reviews, I decided it's not better than even Furitek's starter kit with Venom and Lizard Pro so I didn't bother getting one.
@ oh okay, I guess I’ll wait for the cheat code because my current rig is a rampcrab c10 bass and it’s pretty good for the money, why don’t you like the hobbywing?
@@Danielxperez14 might sound dumb but, hobbywing lost me at having to figure out pinion gear and motor mount. Factoring the price and time of getting those other components, I don’t think it is a compelling option. Furitek comes in a complete kit, which I appreciate. Also, I’ve been spoiled by the FuriCar app. It packs so many features and is so easy to use. I don’t want to go back to the days of using programming boxes. Whatever saving I get by using Hobbywing comes at the sacrifice of not being able to tune with the app. I’m not a Furitek elitist. I’m testing out BL motor+ESC combos that are $20. That is a price range where I think not having the app and not having a BEC make sense.
@ cool, thank you I’m going to start building mine tomorow, I’ve only done one build and I’m also learning a ton, going to try making my own double bends since the mazz ones sold out
@@Danielxperez14 glad you were at least able to snatch up the chassis. Yeah, l got the material to make my own links for my next build which is gonna be based on the NW chassis I told you about before. I’m just waiting for the bender tool and cutter to arrive. Exciting time ahead for us!
@ haha yea and good luck with that I’m just bending my high clearance injoras on a vise for now, I heard good about that chassis I’m excited for your next video man 👍 would love to see a crawl sesh of your crawlers
@@TheDreamer562 you can rotate the front upper links to get them to the desired position. What I am doing next is actually see if i can further rotate mine to lean the servo back to increase castor. If not, I’d bend them some more.
This is the Hobbyplus CR18P Evo Pro body. In hindsight, this body is too long for the Gladiator wheelbase. I keep bumping into its nose. I'm working on another body now.
Thanks dude, I just added it. I see a couple of different ones on Etsy. The one in this video is by V.ENG. Doesn't fit the front because this rig is slammed. There is also diff sliders by SDRC. They're a different shape. I ordered a set to see if I can fit one on my front axle.
Another thing brother if you are looking at all for a little bit more wheel speed and to keep low in speed I would check out that mod 5 pitch seems like you're diving deep into the 24th and if you are I would learn about the gearing for the motor and the transmission I run nothing but mod 5 it's a lot easier and the spur don't have as many teeth on it so it normal spur is 55 tooth count of mod 5 is 32 and a mod for is 41 or 42 I can't remember but then you get also play with your opinion and I have found the best setup for that little mini Komodo is a 13 tooth mod for with a mod 4 spur and then run it on 4S and you want to talk about a power horse specially low end speed and killer wheel speed
Want to eat best shocks on the market blow the Pro-Line out of the water I've had nothing but trouble with the 32s leaking the 50s wasn't so bad but I'm going to tell you now if you run them 36s in the rear and then run to 32 or 34 hot racing up front it makes like a perfect setup or do the 36 up front and do the 40 and the rear from injora I'm hot racing shocks are way better set up than the proline they have real bladders not just a little flat piece of rubber
I'm flattered, but I'm still enjoying this build and I intend on keeping it. I listed all the parts I used in the description. There's really nothing truly unique here, the rig is a mere compilation of those parts. The most difficult thing is probably finding the Mazz chassis in stock 😂. Give it a try, I really think anyone can put together something like this. Feel free to ask if you have any questions.
Wow I am truly blown away by the quality of your video/overview! The build is so sick as well! Thanks for all the support and I had to sub to the channel🤘🏻🤘🏻also the front lower high clearance really has no benefit as it creates a more harsh transition to the skid, this is not only on the v3CC but in cases of most all rails in my opinion, even 0deg skids I still run straights. Keep up the amazing videos!
Dude! Direct from the man himself! Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you think I did your chassis justice. I appreciate you creating such a capable platform! 🤝🤝🤝
Very nice build along. I enjoyed seeing you hit challenges and then overcome them. And also, the truck itself will be doing similarly on the course. Great job all around. Now go win some trophies!
Thanks for your continued support dude!
Super cool sandstone formations! Sometimes it takes a few sessions to discover all the different lines. Plus you can always scrounge around for rocks to add into the spot. Beautiful build. I just rando bumped into your vid and will check out more. Thanks!
@@wingnutbert9685 thanks for watching dude!
You sir have earned yourself a subscriber for this badass build, gonna make me one of these now, appreciate the links to all the parts
@@fishmanwrenn3984 appreciate it very much dude! Yeah this is an amazing chassis, even a couple of months on it still does things that surprise me!
Awesome video man! Clean truck, quality parts, and super detailed during the build process!
Great review, great build, good video !
Ordered a CCV3 myself and will only get it by the end of the year but I can’t wait to get my hands on it 🤯!!
A short note on the transmitter as I’m reaching the end of the video, I’d say fancy and expensive transmitters are mostly useless like you said, I agree, but having at least the ability to adjust end points individually and not just dual rates is pretty great. Main reason why I got a flysky gt5. While not extra cheap, it’s no Noble or 400€ futaba either.
Don’t know about you but all my rigs steer further on one side compared to the other so I compensate this with the end point adjustment on the transmitter.
@@Crawlinski thanks dude! more than a month later, I still think it’s worth the wait!
@@Crawlinski I was taught for those transmitters without EPA, using a combination of Trim and DR essentially has the same effect. I think it’s worked out well for all my rigs that aren’t paired to my Flysky G7P transmitter (this one has EPA). Even for this isokinetic axle, my DR is at 80%. I do sometimes max it out mid-run to get that last bit steering angle out of the servo though. But yeah I hear what you are saying, it’s not as precise.
First let me say very nicely put together video. easy to follow along. that being said I have used that tamiya color shift paint and several other variants of it many times. It is very deceptive when applying the first couple of coats. You dont see it, and think you need more, but a very light coat is all that is needed. It relies heavily on the backing color. black is good to bring out the darker purple but only if the base coat (color shift) is applied very lightly. i used clear disposable spoons to experiment with different thicknesses of color shift. I rerally like to back it with candy red then silver. There are so many cool colors you can make with it.
Dude I wish I knew! The first few layers I was wondering why I couldn't see any colours. Mine came out too pink rather than purple because I sprayed it too thick. Definitely worth revisiting this paint again in the future!
Super cool build md ccv3 is an awesome chassis. Your videos are always amazing. Keep killing it.
Ayye dude, appreciate your continued support!
Thank you for this video, explaining each step and thought process is really interesting, i learned a lot!
@@Petrum you’re welcome! I’m still learning too!
Big fan of the lgrp grippers, they do great for me!
I only got to try those recently. Yeah man they are grippy!
Impressive! Great informative video.
Great content. Great thought to video. Easy to follow
Appreciate the kind words 🙏
The reason the front lower links are not bent is because you want a smooth transition to the bottom of the skid.
I know u
Oh! Yeah that makes a lot of sense. Thank you!
Nice truck & very good crawling 👍
And perfect place for crawling.
@@small.and.even.smaller appreciate the kind words, dude!
🤯🤯🤯
Sweet rig, bruv 😎
I love the injora silicone inserts🤘🏽🤘🏽🤘🏽I use yellow and green simultaneously: the softer of the two is used on the front, and the stiffer is used in the back. Your LGRP TRENCHERS and their compound is ideal. I am sure your pragmatic approach and mechanical aptitude will understand this method. However, I will explain: the softer front helps to grab on ascents and break over; it’s like human hands and arms when rock climbing, and when descending they compress from the front biased weight, which allows the rig to hug its terrain. Additionally, I have run a wider LGRP tire on rear (due to tire specs), and more narrow for front; this allows a few MORE millimeters of width for stability in the rear, and a few LESS millimeters in front for clearing gates. Tire examples for your build: (rear tire) INJORA 1.0" 64*24mm S5 Super Soft Sticky Rock Crawling Tires; (front tire) LGRP Black Label M/T 63mm in height and 21mm in width. Feel free to try, I hope you enjoy the results.
Thanks for the amazing content and ideas!!!
☮️and❤️
Bobby Lee
@@wivlle thanks for watching Bobby and I appreciate your tips. Yeah I actually have been thinking about trying a stagger wheel fitment with slightly wider rear. Similar to what you’re doing by using wider tires in the back. It does help on my 1:1 rig so I figure I should also see benefit on my 1:24. I definitely will also test out different insert setups. Actually I just got a set of OGRC purple, OMG even softer than Injora yellow.
Awesome setup. Nice 👍🏾🔥💯
@@OGRadRC thanks dude!
Thanks for this great video.
@@ripomarc6090 thank you for watching!
Lmfao "I didn't know what I didn't know" thankyou so well said
@@lgrc6120 coming to terms with my ignorance 😂
Go with 3S smaller batteries. Comp batteries should be just big (heavy) enough to get through a 6 minute run. Rig looks good
Yep! I got a few 3S that fit perfect now!
I understand this video is a few months old, but just wanted to point something out that I noticed in your build. The reason you ran into issues with installing your Micro Komodo has to do with your links having been installed in a weird orientation.
The bends on the front uppers should be facing downward, which provides more clearance up front for a forward-facing motor.
I say this because I loosely followed your video for my first ever crawler build (very informative by the way, helped a lot).
But I actually had to purchase a Micro after my Mini-install ran into some issues as it would rub the driver side chassis rail slightly. This is more due to my transmission though (LGRP MR24) as it offsets the motor quite a bit compared to the Furitek Stellar.
Just thought I'd point that out but my Micro clears my links, driveshaft, as well as my front body mount.
Yeah, I admit i didn't try different orientations with those front upper links cuz my fingers were pretty sore at that point after having rotated the rear upper ones plenty of times to set them up right for outboard. haha Actually.. I think my problem was more with the driveshaft hitting the motor in the front. I got a centered motor mount for Micro Komodo from V.ENG. That should fix the issue.
@@Angerhaus Great to hear! Again your video was sort of the push that made me go with the Mazz Designs chassis and I've been impressed with how much room it gives you to customize things.
Another motor plate I recently learned about is Akers; really helps to center your motor.
In my case I went with the LGRP MR24. Word of caution, the transmission offsets the motor quite a bit and would make a Mini Komodo hit the chassis so a Micro (or similar) is required.
You got to look up my 3 flow 9 roller bearing steering link that works amazing he's got all kinds of cool stuff and if you guys run those kinetic like winches all it is a piece of bungee cord he's got some really cool hooks
Listen if you're running into problems like that get you one of those little shock spacers from injora and put a couple millimeter spacer in between the transmission and skid run your screw up through the bottom of the skid through the spacer and into the transmission and it'll give you just those couple millimeters of wiggle room
Mini pen springs on the shock shaft inside the front shock does wonders.
Keeps the front end down.
Only issue is you need longer shocks because the pen spring does take away some of the travel.
Another 10mm longer shocks all around with pen springs.
Trust me.. night and day difference
@@RedLakeArchery dude thanks for all your tips. Yeah I’m actually trying out this reverse internal spring shock idea on another rig. I get what you mean, the front sucks down as it climbs getting all that traction down. Feels a bit odd at first but whatever works!
Lengthen front lower links. That will kick your pinion down changing your drive shaft angle.
awesome build! tires i can personally vouch for are the lgrp black labels or the jconcepts ruptures but those are banned in sorca events
Oh, I actually have set of them black labels in 57mm still in the bag for a scale build. Should’ve opened them sooner to have a feel.
@@Angerhaus the black labels are some of the softest tires I've personally tried
Nice.
@@charliebrown6883 thanks!
And if you want one of the fastest servos on the market definitely check out shift RC their Servo will shake the rig all the way around in a circle if you're running 8.4 and one of the strongest and fastest is the mofo Servo Beast also Holmes Hobby has an amazing Servo that I don't hear a lot of people talk about is super super busy man like the servo horn I'm pretty sure it's a 3 mm screw it's crazy
Wheel bolts shouldnt really hit much. The tire side wall should do all the work.
Personally I dont run scale hardware on a comp rig.
Just fancy trail trucks and shelf queens.
You should have gone with the injora big bore so you atleast have 40mm of flex . I decided to actualy just rebuild my cheat code again . I am going to try the Lgrp super 8 . I don’t really like the link mounts on them though , but I atleast did get them installed just took some figuring out . I also went with rear facing the motor and I grabbed a few boa mounts from prophet I am waiting on for mues and regular axles . This way I can place my ESC in front of the transmission instead of side mounting it . Possibly my reciever may fit there aswell we shall see . I went with c10 front dead bolt rears .
You just named a bunch of things I wanna try on a future class 3 build! These are some great ideas, thanks!
Hi. Could you kindly explain again the body you used? It does not seem to match the one on your parts list. Thanks!
Oh yeah, I updated the link to the new body I’m currently using now because after actually running the old body I realized it’s too long even for this gladiator wheelbase. The old body is from the CR18P EVO PRO.
Re: the motor interference with the Micro Komo.: Could you use washers or even make a thin wedge plate for mounting the trans to angle the motor up in the front a bit to get the leading edge of the can out of the way of the links/drive shaft? Might only need a mm or 2 to get the needed clearance and looks like there's enough drive shaft angle to spare so not to cause binding issues.
Just a thought. :)
@@wingnutbert9685 that’s a good tip I never thought of. Actually I’ve ordered V.ENG’s centered motor mount cuz I know I am gonna run into that problem again.
Need some axle caster if it’s a comp build
By adjusting the length of the front links?
Do you have the little Bend facing down on those links
U do really good work would u ever consider building people’s Scx24 ? If so I’m interested I love the way u do ur work
@@elivious2099 thanks buddy. Build other people’s SCX24? That would be robbing them of majority of the fun! 😂
@ I’m building a couple of scx24s right now lol I need some help 😂
How do you think it compares to the rampcrab chassis ?
This is definitely superior. I like the extra skid angle and the ability to mount outboard rear links.
What size on the Mazz links? I see 3 different types on the website. Wanting to match this build and needed confirmation. If you could let me know that would be awesome, great build!
@@doughthejoke8042 of course man, I got his links for the Gladiator wheelbase. Let me know if there’s anything else I can clarify for you.
@@doughthejoke8042 forgot to mention… I dunno how much you wanna match but i already ditched the body. This body is a tad bit too long the nose kept bumping into things.
@@Angerhaus thank you for the quick response. Getting everything typed up and see it on paper and go from there. I’ll let you know if I have any other questions! Thanks!
Starting to buy some things today. Noticed the CCV3 TI is out of stock. Is the Carbon fiber one okay or would you highly recommend waiting for the Titanium one to come back in stock. Says the Carbon fiber one is 9.3 gram lighter.
@ I honestly don’t think there should be much discernible difference in performance between the two. I got titanium just because I want the rails to be more visible.
Megalithic tires from JConsepts
These are definitely on my list of tires to get next
I love the wheel and face combination you went with here. They look incredible. I ended up using HR big bore oil shocks in the rear and the slightly shorter Pro-Line shocks in the front to limit their uphill travel without using a limiting strap. The Pro-Line shocks work fine, but the HR shocks are sticky after sitting for a while. Is this your experience with the HR shocks? What oil weight did you go with and how much did you use? I'm just wondering if I may have over filled them. Nice build Brother!
It blew my mind when I found out the patterns line up. As for those HR shocks, they are not sticky for me. My Injora 39mm and 40mm big bores both get sticky after sitting, but for some reason not these HR's. I put 40 wt. (500cst) in them. I didn't measure but my best guess is I left about 4mm empty.
@@Angerhaus Much appreciated Brother!
Wait a minute you said you're running underdrive plus an additional 33% overdrive that is a lot the most I've ever ran as in my glass and it is 37 percent I run a overdriven transmission turned forward with the motor and then I run 23% in the front end
Love this video! What body are u using?
Thanks! This is the body off of a Hobbyplus CR18P Evo Pro. But frankly it is a bit too long, I shelved it and already made another body for this rig.
@@Angerhaus I ordered myself a chassis, titanium short with double bends. Gonna try it out with Mofo parts, engine servo esc and maybe axles too. This will be my first build, have 2 RTR from before. Your video is good inspiration 4 my build, tnxs and keep it up!
@@stenrudshaug8916 I'm curious which Mofo motor you bought? Recently I tried a Mofo R.O.P. but I couldn't get it to run smoothly with a Lizard Pro. :(
@@Angerhaus I have sendt a mail to Mofo to help me figure out what engine and drivetrain i should go for, but havent got an answer yet. On one of my RTR, this Slayer Prime ruclips.net/video/jzSO6RG3jEQ/видео.html, i have Mofo NanoBam and (drivetrain + esc i think) and it drives very smooth. Thats why i wanna try to go with Mofo on the new build. Also the size of the drivetrain + motor is small so hopefully would work with the 15 skid angle.
Man I love this rig, youre explenation really helpes me out on my new build. unfortunately mazz designs is sold out. Do you remember where your body is from? Can't figure it out on the video.
@@NS-cd5yg thanks man, but dude in hindsight I don’t recommend this body. It’s a bit too long. It’s from the Furitek Cayman Pro or Hobbyplus CR18P Evo Pro. I’m gonna replace it soon.
@@Angerhaus thanks for your reply! Looking forward to see the fine tuning! Also if you are not satisfied with the UD/OD. You can maybe try injora underdrive for stock rear axles. Im also debating on doing this to my Meus axles, not sure how it will turn out though, just thinking out loud
@@NS-cd5yg haha yeah I did eventually opened my rear axle to confirm I have the right gears in it. I dunno why it just doesn’t feel like a combined 47% OD. I’m actually working on a rig with 33% OD front and 33% UD rear. I’ve not tried this much combined OD before. If I like it, I’ll do it to this rig too.
@@Angerhaus yeah I had the same feeling. But I meant the original Axial rear diff gears should be allready more underdriven then the original Meus ones, so swapping those out should make more underdrive. And you can go even wilder with underdrive axial versions. the rears should be swappable they said.
P.s. at this moment I cant chose between the XL or normal cheatcode😅
In your opinion as of right now what’s the best comp chassis purely for performance for the gladiator wheelbase? I want this chassis but it’s always out of stock so I might resort to a different one, also have you tried the hobbywing mini24 brushless setup?
Frankly, I haven't tried that many custom chassis to give advice. Other than this Cheat Code V.3, I only have Karnage Alien V2, RampCrab LCG, and DBRC Gila Monster (TRX4m). The Mazz is miles beyond, it is the only true comp chassis out of these custom chassis. I personally think it's worth the wait. I signed up to his mailing list so I was notified of the drop in advance. I actually have a NW Athos right now, but I haven't built it yet. I can tell this is going to give Mazz a run for his money. Perhaps consider that. I'd also give V.ENG Gatekeeper a look. That also seem like a very competitive option. No, I haven't tried Hobbywing Mini24 yet. I had HW on 1/10th so I was curious. But after watching a few reviews, I decided it's not better than even Furitek's starter kit with Venom and Lizard Pro so I didn't bother getting one.
@ oh okay, I guess I’ll wait for the cheat code because my current rig is a rampcrab c10 bass and it’s pretty good for the money, why don’t you like the hobbywing?
@@Danielxperez14 might sound dumb but, hobbywing lost me at having to figure out pinion gear and motor mount. Factoring the price and time of getting those other components, I don’t think it is a compelling option. Furitek comes in a complete kit, which I appreciate. Also, I’ve been spoiled by the FuriCar app. It packs so many features and is so easy to use. I don’t want to go back to the days of using programming boxes. Whatever saving I get by using Hobbywing comes at the sacrifice of not being able to tune with the app. I’m not a Furitek elitist. I’m testing out BL motor+ESC combos that are $20. That is a price range where I think not having the app and not having a BEC make sense.
@ I agree with that, only reason I bought it was due to Black Friday sale
@@Danielxperez14 by the way dude, a new batch of Mazz chassis and links just dropped
when installing the magnets iunto the mounts, did you glue them into the 3d printed piece?
@@Danielxperez14 yep, I use E6000 for all my magnets. Let it dry overnight, the magnets won’t come off after that.
@ cool, thank you I’m going to start building mine tomorow, I’ve only done one build and I’m also learning a ton, going to try making my own double bends since the mazz ones sold out
@@Danielxperez14 glad you were at least able to snatch up the chassis. Yeah, l got the material to make my own links for my next build which is gonna be based on the NW chassis I told you about before. I’m just waiting for the bender tool and cutter to arrive. Exciting time ahead for us!
@ haha yea and good luck with that I’m just bending my high clearance injoras on a vise for now, I heard good about that chassis I’m excited for your next video man 👍 would love to see a crawl sesh of your crawlers
How did you get the servo to be level? I got the same thing going on with my ccv3. Would I need to change the link setup?
@@TheDreamer562 you can rotate the front upper links to get them to the desired position. What I am doing next is actually see if i can further rotate mine to lean the servo back to increase castor. If not, I’d bend them some more.
Hi I live in Taipei,where I can buy the V3 chassis?
@@slin851 hello fellow Taipeier 👋🏼 you can find a link to Mazz Designs’ store in the description
Is this neihu mountain do you have GPS location thank you
Yeah man, this is 軍艦岩
@ thank you!
What transmission is that? Stock scx24 with a injora aluminum shell?
@@Expedition.Kitchen just Furitek housing and gears that came as a kit with motor
What body is this from?
This is the Hobbyplus CR18P Evo Pro body. In hindsight, this body is too long for the Gladiator wheelbase. I keep bumping into its nose. I'm working on another body now.
4:44 you forgot the link to this slider thing.
Thanks dude, I just added it. I see a couple of different ones on Etsy. The one in this video is by V.ENG. Doesn't fit the front because this rig is slammed. There is also diff sliders by SDRC. They're a different shape. I ordered a set to see if I can fit one on my front axle.
Another thing brother if you are looking at all for a little bit more wheel speed and to keep low in speed I would check out that mod 5 pitch seems like you're diving deep into the 24th and if you are I would learn about the gearing for the motor and the transmission I run nothing but mod 5 it's a lot easier and the spur don't have as many teeth on it so it normal spur is 55 tooth count of mod 5 is 32 and a mod for is 41 or 42 I can't remember but then you get also play with your opinion and I have found the best setup for that little mini Komodo is a 13 tooth mod for with a mod 4 spur and then run it on 4S and you want to talk about a power horse specially low end speed and killer wheel speed
What battery are you going to use on the slider
@@Expedition.Kitchen I got this tiny little 300mah 3s that fits on the slider
@Angerhaus do you have a link for it? Love your build
Your front upper links are upside down. Flip them and the motor will fit.
What body
Furitek Cayman Pro
@@Angerhaus was the body clear when you got it or did you paint over one of the spare bodies? All I can find to purchase are pre-painted bodies.
Want to eat best shocks on the market blow the Pro-Line out of the water I've had nothing but trouble with the 32s leaking the 50s wasn't so bad but I'm going to tell you now if you run them 36s in the rear and then run to 32 or 34 hot racing up front it makes like a perfect setup or do the 36 up front and do the 40 and the rear from injora I'm hot racing shocks are way better set up than the proline they have real bladders not just a little flat piece of rubber
Are you interested in selling me this project? I honestly don't think I can put this together alone?🥲
I'm flattered, but I'm still enjoying this build and I intend on keeping it. I listed all the parts I used in the description. There's really nothing truly unique here, the rig is a mere compilation of those parts. The most difficult thing is probably finding the Mazz chassis in stock 😂. Give it a try, I really think anyone can put together something like this. Feel free to ask if you have any questions.
You got it man just try and not just that but you're going to learn so much along the way