Quick Fix -- Bracing A Sagging Garage Beam
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- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2014
- Built a brace to help take the pressure off of a poor splice on a support beam in a garage.
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Thanks for this excellent solution. I have the same problem and have been puzzling for several months over a way to level this beam and have it be stable and strong enough. Thank you again
Overkill is underrated. Remember that. Nice work.
I had the same problem but in my house. I had to cut and drill the sheet-metal all by hand though. I jacked the broken joist as far past level as I could get it and then bolted the support up just like you did. That was 20 years ago and it is still there doing the job.
Thank you so much for this. You have no idea what I'm going through in my life right now.
Good work! I have the same issue at my house and was thinking of exactly the same solution. Your fix is complete over kill but better over done than under done!
I love the job you have done, well done.
This looks like a good idea for rafter repair too. Thanks for the awesome idea😁
From a Structural Engineer's perspective, additional ply introduced at the underside of the beam would better control the deflection. Nice one.
Nice work!!👍🏼👍🏼
That would be crazy work in a crawl space..
Nice work! Its never overkill when it could be 200 years.....
Warner B Thank you
spot on professional job, you should be rightly proud.
Thank you
I have a ridge beam placed between to brick walls in my roof, so the one edge is already rotten and iam thinking to cut the rotten part and doing the same thing or join a piece of wood trush. I like your video, very informative.
Great Job!
Thanks now i know how to fix my sagging beams
Awesome video. I bought a house with a bedroom and bathroom above the double garage. The previous owner had telescopic posts initially...but then took them out (car doors hitting them) and put some kinda adjustable steel girdle around the support beam (3 - 2x8s) and I'm noticing some ceiling drop in my bedroom/bathroom. Problem is....I don't know how to adjust this thing lol
Nice job😎
Well done. I just wonder if the outer holes are not creating a new weakness where cracking can occur. I would have preferred an outer 'Simpson tie' type of wrap that doesn't take away from the structural integrity of the beam itself. But I have no way of knowing what type of structural significance you are dealing with.
Thank you… great job
Superb job
Gonna be doing this too
Well done 👍
Thank you
Hi, that looks very useful, but I couldn't quite get what the splices were for on either side.
Is the central beam just one beam or two? I guessed it was one but the splices on either side made me second guess.
How far through do the splices go through the wood?
Is it to introduce a gap on either side so that when it's bent back there's some room for give in the beam?
This is exactly what I need. Where can I order the those metal brackets?
Best video I’ve seen that relates to my situation. I made a loft in my storage shed that is 16 ft wide on 2x6 joists about 22 inches apart. It’s not saggy but I’m thinking about doing something similar as opposed to a lally column for support. I have a question for everybody. For 16 ft joist support how long does the flitch plate need to be in the middle?
Thanks. I need to make a purlin to a length of 6.5 metres but wood only comes in 4.8m lengths. What is the best way to join the two timbers to make a 6.5 m long purlin beam ? The purlin will be composed of two 6x2 inch beams sandwiched together face to face And then maybe a 4x2 inch beam underneath the two 6x2 beams. The purlin would be a 8x4 inch beam but needs to be 6.5m in length. Thanks.
It needed it! It isn't overkill if it is actually necessary. From what I can see the original beam looks like it was extremely under designed and was spliced in the WORST spot! The splice is right where the beam has the most bending moment. This is what happens when people don't know how to frame buildings, usually seen in old buildings or un-permitted structures. It looks like the splice location should have been a column location, but this works.
Did you consider putting channel iron under the beam? It would seem to me that you could use a standard piece of channel iron (and some long wood screws) underneath and it would perform similarly, perhaps with less hardware since the moment of inertia of the channel iron would be added at a distance from the centroid of your beam.
No, thought didn't even cross my mind. I was just using material I had on hand, which is plate steel. I don't keep channel iron on hand.
This is actually pretty common, called fledge plates, I work in a steel and welding shop most of the times contractors get two plates anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 inch with staggered holes and run lag bolts into the floor joists after they have jacked them up.
Love this
Great video! I'm planning on doing this, and have the steel with synched holes, but am wondering how you attached it. Was it difficult to get the holes to match up on the other side?
I drilled the holes after I had the first plate up. They weren't 100% perpendicular though. I ran through a couple of bolts and mounted the opposite plate, then corrected the out-of-aligned holes from the other side. Hammered through the bolts and it went together well.
Thanks!
Nice Job: On a different note, do you think this would work for installing a 16" door instead of my two existing 2 8' garage doors with a support beam in the center? (W/O) a second story. This would seem like a much more cost effective approach than rebuilding my garage? I would appreciate any help you can give?
Yes, but have an architectural or structural engineer sign off on the design.
Where did you have that 1/4 inch plate made? Did you have it taken to a metal fabricating shop to have it done? I may have to do something like that on my tool since the roof is starting to sag.
My garage. I have a small CNC plasma table.
Hi John, great video mate - is this similar to a flitch plate ?
Never heard of a flitch plate before, but I suppose so. :)
I need to do an identical repair. I do not have equipment for cutting metal plate. Where would you suggest I go to get the plate fabricated?
Most places that sell steel will slice it up for you. With a drill and an angle grinder you can have the same thing. It will just take longer.
Solid👍🏻
Did you considered staggering the bolts? This still looks great tho.
Didn't think about it, but that would have been better
Nice idea, can you please let me know the thickness of the metal plate and the appropriate distance of the screws. Thanks.
1/4" plate, 1/2" bolts, not sure on the distance apart. Probably should stagger the top and bottom rows unlike I did here.
Hey john. Where would I go to have something like this made? I have the same problem in my garage.
any steel shop should be able to slice some plate for you. You can drill the holes or have them do it.
@@JohnHarmon thank you
What would the ballpark cost be to have something like this fabricated?
$60.00
I actually did a repair like this a couple weeks ago. Home depot sells different styles, sizes and gauges at reasonable prices. I spent about $25 on a repair
There is a small rack near lumber. It has all varied sizes, design and gauges. I think if you describe what you need and what for, someone there might point you in the right direction.
What size steel plates? Looks like about 4' long, maybe 1/2" thick? Bolts 6" apart?
+rjc1945 1/4" plate if I remember correctly... maybe 3/16. Unsure on how far apart I put them... It was almost a couple of years ago. I would pull up the CNC file and tell you, but I lost the hard drive that had them all.... and I didn't have them backed up like I thought
+rjc1945 Yup, 4' long.... roughly 6" apart I think based on the number of holes I counted
Nice!
Thanks!
Hello all o/ Do you think it'd be possible to diy engineer an 8m (26 ft) beam to support a SIPS panel roof?
Not knowing all the load requirements, 26'x14" lam beams are under $200. Stack however many you need together. Glue and screw to add strength. TrussLok or structural screws. Having one milled might be cheaper
Miss the old intro!
Which one? I still have them all :)
Where can I buy the steel brace you picture? I've searched the internet and can only find decorative pieces
There should be local steel suppliers near you. They can typically sheer it to the size you need too.
@@JohnHarmon Thank you !!
People comment that this is overkill, but my first thought was that using metal brace is inferior to using wooden one because it decreases flexibility of a wooden beam. Of course, this is just a garage so it probably doesn't matter, and I might be wrong, I'm no professional, I ended up here looking for ideas how to reinforce old wooden beams in my house :)
Hi John, greetings from Ireland. I am looking to do something similar to this on my bedroom ceilings which is sagging after converting my attic space without using steel. It's not sagging much, more of a settling in phase however as I am renovating my bedroom now and I want to add additional support. Can you tell me if your solution might weaken the timber by drilling so many holes in it or does the steel mitigate that?Also, the span of the joists is 14ft, dependent on wires /pipes going through the joists wouldi need to add steel anywhere I can or is the middle area sufficient to a 5-6ft piece of steel on each joist? Many thanks in advance of your expertise knowledge. RegardsTS.
I would recommend calling a structural engineer for your specific situation. Many of them will give you some basic advise over the phone. In this situation I don't think it has weakened the wood at all, and is still holding up. I sandwiched it pretty hard though with those bolts. The friction of the plates alone should really help compensate for any weakness in the wood created by the holes. Hope that helps.
Much appreciated John. Keep up the good work.
What size bolts did you use? What size holes?
newbie I don't remember. 1/2" I think
Where did you buy/order this metal brace from?
I built it
Great idea! Do you know of any online calculators to figure out the dimensions of steel needed and hole spacing/bolt size??
Did you find a resource for this?
@@bryanstock281 not exactly but for a small fee there is a website service I found where you can connect with an engineer to discuss specifics about any project. www.justanswer.com
That's great , can you make me some plates for a 8 by 8 beam my splits are 8 feet apart where beam splices together 28 foot span ! I'm trying to find plates , willing to pay for 2 custome or 1 long single ????? Any advice
Is it still in place? It hasn't degraded
Holding up fine. Still in place.
John Harmon - Cold Creek This method could potentially save me a couple grand at least. So hats off to you sir! If it pans out I owe you a couple jars of unfiltered honey
:)
Where did you get your music?
melodyloops I believe
How long were your plates?
Just under 4 feet as that is as big as my plasma table can cut.
How did you get the plate done?
Not sure what you are asking, but I cut it out on my CNC table. You could have it sheared at a metal supplier and drill holes in it.
👍
After 6 years, we still watching this video,
My question is, How wide is that? My garage is 30 wide and is sagging, Im thinking to put a support in the center
How wide is the brace? Just under 4'
❤
Why not double the beam with a new one? Just curious.
Where would u put the second beam? Right beside it? Length?
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 ... under it! The depth is the strength. I-beam principle.
How long is the span? Thanks
My metal brace is just shy of 4'. Not sure on the span of the 2x4s. This was many years ago and my brother no longer lives there.
Nice job. Why didn't you weld a bottom plate to make a u channel to overkill the overkill. I believe in overkill when dealing with that type of weight above living space.
Didn't cross my mind
Why not replacing the beam for a new one and healthy wood?
That would be a lot of work lol. He would have to have everything supported and then to remove that one beam and replace it with another beam. All the preparation and extra material to support the structure while he swaps out the old would take and cost a lot longer than just jacking up that current beam and adding in those plates as support.
After 8yrs . Is it still holding strong?
My brother no longer lives there, so I haven't checked on it, but I believe that it is.
I stacked the bolts on top of each other. That might make it weaker. I would stagger them if I were to do it again.
is there a way to buy the brace or it has to be made custom?
Unknown. I guess it just depends where you live, but for this size I am leaning toward custom.
Where would I look to have someone fabricate this for me?
A steel shop, or post something in your local adds
Who’s the artist/track please?
www.melodyloops.com/tracks/summer-break/
yeah real quick fix let me just get out my metal press and cut the the sheet metal and press some holes into it. I can do this no problem
I agree these videos of useless without showing us how it was done where do you get the metal Etc
Great video. But wow you sound like the joker why so serious "
I was sick when I made this video
At 0:58 ... you keep the mouse in your hand, on screen is an arrow called the promter
Usually just called a pointer, or mouse pointer.
@@JohnHarmon Ignore armchair Grammar Nazis whose roofs are OK!