It is great see you pour a proper pad for the post. So many people just install a post on the floor and then blame the concrete contractor that poured the original floor when the floor cracks. My Son-in-Law owns a concrete company so I've seen it time-and-time again.
Thank you for all the videos you upload they are so we'll filmed, edited and produced. I've been filming and editing for my own business for 11 years so know how much effort you put into this. Just as a chuckle, a while back I made my 12 year old daughter watch one of your videos as a punishment for having a potty mouth as anything like that was so 'boring' to her. Turns out she loved it, we watched the series on garden boxes and purchased a drop saw, skill saw and a multi tool and we built a few together. We have made a number of units using pumice and cement and pumice, recycled polystyrene crumb and cement and they have turned out really good. Next year Poppy is changing her core subjects at school to include wood working and I think it's thanks to your videos. At the moment, it's pallet wood planter boxes and pumice cement planter pots. Thanks for your videos, we wait in anticipation for anything new you produce. All the best from New Zealand, peace and love to you and your family.
Thank you so much for your kind words! You made my day! And I am glad your daughter has taken an interest in woodworking. It's a great hobby and/or career. Cheers! Kent
Good to see you back. Hope your winter weather wasn't too bad. Nice work on the beam. Looking forward to seeing you fit out the wood shop. Take care and have a good week.
My first thoughts too were, how else to do this without a center pole? But then it occurred to me that the center pole will be useful to drop power and other services to any equipment not close to the walls of the shop. As Winky would say "I like it". Thanks for sharing, looking forward to the rest of the build of the wood shop.
Great video, thanks! If you'd be willing to share, I'd love to hear more about finding/buying acreage properties like this on the Island. I'd like to find a nice treed couple of acres here in Alberta someday and having a little shop / cabin on it and maybe turn it into a kitty cat ranch when I retire.
For attic access (even for storage) I prefer a hole with a straight ladder stuck in it. I did this at my last house. The hatch door was hinged with an eye bolt in it. A hook on a pole made it easy to open the hatch from below. I then stuck a straight ladder in the hole (at an angle) to get in and out of the attic. The benefit was when it came to lifting/lowering loads in/out of the attic. The wife removed the ladder, I hung a block and tackle over the hole, and then used it to lift/lower loads that she hooked. Worked great. Made it easy to get stuff in and out. Smaller items could be carried up the ladder just the same as the ladders that are hinged.
I have this same issue but it's located in the living room where a steel post is less than ideal. I've been thinking to use two steel C-chanels to sandwich the column. This way the steel will prevent further deflection in the beam
This will be an interesting series. I'm looking forward to it. Also - do you have specs on that crosscut saw I noted in the background? Looked like a lance tooth pattern bucking saw. This type of saw is used extensively in the US maintaining hiking trails in official Wilderness areas, where power tools are not allowed.
Nice job. Just curious, on the 4 corners of the cutout concrete slab would drilling them out circular before using the concrete saw be an approach? You know, to stop those 90 degree cuts starting crack propagation ?
@@MANaboutTOOLS 18'. I just bought one to replace a sagging 16' garage door beam. You could also get two 1-3/4 LVLs and sandwich them together to get similar strength. Much easier to work with.
Weren’t you suppose to submerge the bottom of the post into the concrete along with the nuts and washers. Then pour concrete over that? I’ve seen the Manuel’s and see it in person you gotta get it right.
Are those the _official_ Holmes on Homes gloves? Nice. Did you consider adding anything to the concrete to help it bond with the existing slab? I've heard (ironically on HoH, I think) that sometimes adding glass fiber to the mix can help with adhesion. I know this is a really small job but just curious.
In fact those are HOH gloves. Not sure where I got them I go through gloves like crazy. I didn't think about bonding to slab. In fact I think it might be better if the footing moved independent of the slab.
Depending on the application, the column footing can either be integral with the slab and have a thickened monolithic footing or have an isolated footing with isolation joints to allow for settlement differences. Since this is a post installed column, isolated is better…typically
Cost and performance are the trade off! This is the issue that concerns me in your cast Raised Bed videos. I wonder what version of raised bed is cheap yet strong and durable?
Did you consider sistering the beam with a taller piece of 2x or maybe 2 of them for more strength? Price of building materials is nuts. :( A few years ago I had to replace the beam in a loafing shed. Snow had collapsed a front addition the prior winter, splitting the beam. Whomever had added the front had removed a center post, and not properly strengthened the beam to span 20 feet. I wanted to keep the clear span and a beam for that was expensive even then, so I glued up a stack of 2x4s to 9 thick making a 20+ft long beam 3-1/2 wide by 13-1/2 tall. I made my own glu-lam, in other words. I think I had 3 of 10ft 2x4s, but the rest were 8ft and I staggered all the joints some distance apart. This was a taller beam than the math said I needed, but I had the height and adding another couple of layers of 2x4 was cheap compared to the work. I used the beam with a hydraulic jack on each end to jack up the center of the collapsed roof before fastening it in place, and so far, so good.
That's a FANTASTIC idea! Thanks for your comments here; for all of us to think about other options. I did throw around a few ideas for my sagging beam and sistering was an option I considered. Cheers, Kent
It is great see you pour a proper pad for the post. So many people just install a post on the floor and then blame the concrete contractor that poured the original floor when the floor cracks. My Son-in-Law owns a concrete company so I've seen it time-and-time again.
Thanks! I just couldn't risk cracking the floor.
Excellent early start to the video! Kitty cat spotted at 13 seconds! Great job Kent!
Thank you for all the videos you upload they are so we'll filmed, edited and produced. I've been filming and editing for my own business for 11 years so know how much effort you put into this. Just as a chuckle, a while back I made my 12 year old daughter watch one of your videos as a punishment for having a potty mouth as anything like that was so 'boring' to her. Turns out she loved it, we watched the series on garden boxes and purchased a drop saw, skill saw and a multi tool and we built a few together. We have made a number of units using pumice and cement and pumice, recycled polystyrene crumb and cement and they have turned out really good. Next year Poppy is changing her core subjects at school to include wood working and I think it's thanks to your videos. At the moment, it's pallet wood planter boxes and pumice cement planter pots. Thanks for your videos, we wait in anticipation for anything new you produce. All the best from New Zealand, peace and love to you and your family.
Thank you so much for your kind words! You made my day! And I am glad your daughter has taken an interest in woodworking. It's a great hobby and/or career. Cheers! Kent
Good to see you back. Hope your winter weather wasn't too bad. Nice work on the beam. Looking forward to seeing you fit out the wood shop. Take care and have a good week.
Thanks 👍
Gosh how I wish you were my contractor!
Usually when hammering anchors in puts nuts and washers on then hammer them in so you don’t mushrooms the head or treads
My first thoughts too were, how else to do this without a center pole? But then it occurred to me that the center pole will be useful to drop power and other services to any equipment not close to the walls of the shop. As Winky would say "I like it". Thanks for sharing, looking forward to the rest of the build of the wood shop.
Great video, thanks! If you'd be willing to share, I'd love to hear more about finding/buying acreage properties like this on the Island. I'd like to find a nice treed couple of acres here in Alberta someday and having a little shop / cabin on it and maybe turn it into a kitty cat ranch when I retire.
Nicely done
Thanks!
thanks very educational
For attic access (even for storage) I prefer a hole with a straight ladder stuck in it. I did this at my last house.
The hatch door was hinged with an eye bolt in it. A hook on a pole made it easy to open the hatch from below. I then stuck a straight ladder in the hole (at an angle) to get in and out of the attic. The benefit was when it came to lifting/lowering loads in/out of the attic. The wife removed the ladder, I hung a block and tackle over the hole, and then used it to lift/lower loads that she hooked. Worked great. Made it easy to get stuff in and out. Smaller items could be carried up the ladder just the same as the ladders that are hinged.
I like the block & tackle idea. Good options there. Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated! Kent
Surprise you didn’t install anchor bolts while cement was drying
I have this same issue but it's located in the living room where a steel post is less than ideal. I've been thinking to use two steel C-chanels to sandwich the column. This way the steel will prevent further deflection in the beam
I have heard of extending the standard length of a wood beam by doing as you suggest. Just ask an engineer, for sizing and fasteners.
This will be an interesting series. I'm looking forward to it. Also - do you have specs on that crosscut saw I noted in the background? Looked like a lance tooth pattern bucking saw. This type of saw is used extensively in the US maintaining hiking trails in official Wilderness areas, where power tools are not allowed.
Thank you! I'll dig around for that saw and get back to you. Cheers, Kent
Always love your videos....quick question. Why did you not just cast the bolts into the footer when the concrete was still wet instead of drilling?
Thanks! I was looking for a smooth trowel surface. I think you could do it either way.
Nice job. Just curious, on the 4 corners of the cutout concrete slab would drilling them out circular before using the concrete saw be an approach? You know, to stop those 90 degree cuts starting crack propagation ?
Thanks! I think that would have been a good option.
A 4x12 LVL from Roseburg lumber is around $280 and you wouldn't need a center support.
Thanks! What length?
@@MANaboutTOOLS 18'. I just bought one to replace a sagging 16' garage door beam. You could also get two 1-3/4 LVLs and sandwich them together to get similar strength. Much easier to work with.
Thanks for that. There are now also exterior above grade PT LVL as well.
Weren’t you suppose to submerge the bottom of the post into the concrete along with the nuts and washers. Then pour concrete over that? I’ve seen the Manuel’s and see it in person you gotta get it right.
Are those the _official_ Holmes on Homes gloves? Nice. Did you consider adding anything to the concrete to help it bond with the existing slab? I've heard (ironically on HoH, I think) that sometimes adding glass fiber to the mix can help with adhesion. I know this is a really small job but just curious.
In fact those are HOH gloves. Not sure where I got them I go through gloves like crazy. I didn't think about bonding to slab. In fact I think it might be better if the footing moved independent of the slab.
Depending on the application, the column footing can either be integral with the slab and have a thickened monolithic footing or have an isolated footing with isolation joints to allow for settlement differences. Since this is a post installed column, isolated is better…typically
Cost and performance are the trade off! This is the issue that concerns me in your cast Raised Bed videos. I wonder what version of raised bed is cheap yet strong and durable?
This is the simple version of the form. It makes a cheap and durable panel with no frills: ruclips.net/video/9kga9jSG7Gs/видео.html
Anyone else hear Patrick Bateman? I was waiting for him to return a videotape while the cement was drying.
I wonder if you could jack beam then sister another beside it?
Yes. That would be an option too.
A piece of lumber that size/span would be insane. Compared to $120 metal jack post.
@@boots7859 Steel same idea. Just trying to maintain open span.
@@phooesnax My mistake, in retrospect, a couple of 2x10/2x12 plyed to that beam would have been similar in price and kept that span open.
Did you consider sistering the beam with a taller piece of 2x or maybe 2 of them for more strength? Price of building materials is nuts. :(
A few years ago I had to replace the beam in a loafing shed. Snow had collapsed a front addition the prior winter, splitting the beam. Whomever had added the front had removed a center post, and not properly strengthened the beam to span 20 feet. I wanted to keep the clear span and a beam for that was expensive even then, so I glued up a stack of 2x4s to 9 thick making a 20+ft long beam 3-1/2 wide by 13-1/2 tall. I made my own glu-lam, in other words. I think I had 3 of 10ft 2x4s, but the rest were 8ft and I staggered all the joints some distance apart. This was a taller beam than the math said I needed, but I had the height and adding another couple of layers of 2x4 was cheap compared to the work. I used the beam with a hydraulic jack on each end to jack up the center of the collapsed roof before fastening it in place, and so far, so good.
That's a FANTASTIC idea! Thanks for your comments here; for all of us to think about other options. I did throw around a few ideas for my sagging beam and sistering was an option I considered. Cheers, Kent
What's this beam made up of? 2x10s? Lvl? Thanks
It was a cedar timber
Simplicity first. It makes sense.
I dont see why this small stick needed its own form
I wasn't sure how thick the concrete was and what effect a point load would have on it.
@@MANaboutTOOLS great work 👏
@@MANaboutTOOLS I will follow u amigo ALL the way from U.S.A. Orage county California