How To Use Smaller Beams To Fix Sagging Roof In Older Garages With 2 x 4 Rafters
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- Опубликовано: 2 мар 2021
- www.homebuildingandrepairs.co... Visit our website today to learn more building repairs, new construction and home remodeling. This video will provide you with a few construction repair methods to fix an old sagging garage roof by using smaller beams that can fit in tighter spaces. Lumbers sizes and building hardware can vary on different projects and structural engineering might be required for repair modifications like these.
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Really Really Appreciate the clarity of the Diagram and of the Instructor's Clear Verbal Institutions. WOW!!! Really Makes it Easy to COMPREHEND!!! Thank You So Very Much!!
Great video, Greg ! Thank for your expertise.
My pleasure!
This video was very helpful with some good ideas on how to fix my sagging garage roof thanks
You're are very welcome.
I like your suggestions. I was thinking you could gain a little bit more length if you came in diagonally giving you more support on the top plates.
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
Thank you! This helps me tremendously. I now understand what someone did before me as a repair. Unfortunately they did it poorly.
It happens.
Steel cable with a turnbuckle perhaps.
Great video.. We have a garage just like this.. We will try it. However we are going to add at least 2 -2x4 in the wall on edge to support the weight of your 4x6s in the rafters.... We are also going to measure from top plate to top plate and sill plate to sill plate to see how much our walls are out of plumb... Thank you for the ideas...
Welcome and good luck with repairs.
thank you. 😊
You're welcome 😊
FFS, You raise the sag in the ridge while pulling the eve walls together. refasten the old collar ties and add a couple more where needed.
Would you think it could work setting a beam made from 2 - 2x10s across the rafter ties running below but inline with the ridge. The top plate of the walls would be the main support on the ends after installing blocking flush with the rafters. I am working with a 24 long ridge and the ridge plate is 2 pieces vs one and that's where the sag has started, it's a significant drop in the center of the ridge (about 5" or so) and the walls do not seem to be effected by any means. I planned on creating this beam and sliding it in from the exterior gable end by cutting an area out then patching it back in. Once in place I figured I would utilize the rafter ties as additional support by using shims and plates to connect everything. Let me know what you think. I have 2x6 rafters so if there is a better way I am all for it.
I have a 20’ x 20’ concrete block 2 car garage. It has a loft in half of the garage. The previous owners used the garage for a party room for their kids and storage in the attic. They nailed one of garage doors to the wall. I’ve noticed the roof is sagging. I’d like to put a usable garage door back in but need to fix the sag first. At least I would think so. I really don’t want a post in the middle to support the roof. It has a 1” x 6” down the middle. The build 1965.
Hello, My rafter ties are coming apart allowing the walls to sag. How do I pull the walls back true? I have a 20 foot rafter tie that is bracket attached to a 16 foot counter part that is stretching the distance of the width of the pole barn. it is coming apart. I have a 1/2" gap between the two butted rafter ties. I need to pull it back tight somehow getting rid of the gap.
Terrific videos!!! I have an older 24x30 garage with 2x6 wall framing and a 2 x 4 truss system 24 inches on center with a metal roof screwed into the truss' upper cord (no sheathing). I would like to insulate and drywall the ceiling and walls. On occasion we can have some heavy snow loads so I'd like to fortify the truss system just in case. That I said I have no sagging now. I've thought that sistering the bottom cord with 2x6s might help? I don't really want to create additional work for no real benefit. Maybe just lightweight drywall and insulation will be fine. Any thoughts?
Back in my day four/five decades ago the UBC allowed one to just simply use purlins and struts supported on a strut flange running on top of the ceiling joints with a 2x strut beam nailed on edge along the side of the strut flange.
I'm not exactly sure what type of construction method you're referring to, but did it actually work and if it did, then do they still allow it to be done today.
@@gregvancom The method was described in the UBC books back in those days as an acceptable method. It was in common practice in lieu of fabricating trusses for extended rafter and joist spans. I've used it my self and it worked great so long as you didn't cut corners in the quality of workmanship and used a large enough strut beam, usually a 2x6,8. 2x4 strut beams were typically insufficient but the shortest spans.
But due to the increasing requirements of engineering calcs for virtually everything by building departments, by the 80's it has largely been abandoned because it's cheaper for an engineer to do a simple post and beam Calc Than doing all the aggregate Calc of all the individual structural members of struts, rafters, purlins, flanges, and strut beams. So due to engineering costs it's more economical to just do trusses or post and beam designs now days.
I moved into our old family house and it is almost hundred years old. And it needs a lot of repairs, and most notably the home needs some foundation repair, not major, just some lagging floors in the center room (dining) and some sinkage at one end of the house due to some moisture (kitchen). Another concern is the roof, it is sagging in some areas ( mostly in the area were the foundation is sinking), so I have some major rain water leaking, that I have to but buckets out when a good storm hits. The foundation is on post and I am doing most the repairs myself. My question is, should I start with the foundation or the roof first. I am inclined to start the roof first because of the annoying leaks when it rains. Your suggestion is appreciated.
I built a 20 by 17 room. The inspector told me to brace the ridge. How can I do that.? Thank u.
not a bad idea... id do it a little differently i think it could be applicable
Go for it.
I would want some kind of lamination, gluelam, homemade sistered beams. I've seen how knots are a weak point, lamination works around that.
Some applications don't have access to fit an 18 ft rafter in, sistering in place, two or three wide can work. Plywood would be rigid enough I wonder about strength though.
What would u charge to do this for someone?
What is the original reason the roof ridge sagged? Was it due to undersized 2x4 rafters? Or was the problem due to the rafter ties undersized or they were not tied to the wall top plates well enough allowing the walls to bow out ? I’m thinking a combination of all three issues with the main culprit being rafters were undersized?
Different reasons, but you got most of them. Under sized rafters and not rafter ties is usually the most common. I have more videos at the website on roof framing and roof framing repairs.
TY - ideas for the project i have ! mines abit deeper - 20 ' x 35 ' cut in 3 pieces ' a house" . moved to its location 13 yrs ago yes 3 complete pieces of this house - 4 including front porch 8'x12' entire inside is dun in Toung and groove cedar with cathedral ceiling in entry - Ug what a project i have LOL
Wow, it sounds like quite the project. I couldn't tell if you were asking a question, so I will simply say, you're welcome.
What if I have two garage doors an 8' and a 12 '? I act or rafter ties 20 into a 40' garage.
Hi
I have the same problem but in an old house..only 2 x 4' s in the ceiling, not even rafters and the wall is pushed out at the ceiling about 3". This is kinda the same idea, but do you have video already for a house also?
Go to our website and check out our framing repair videos.
Great video! Can I send you pics of my 12 year old shed and get your feedback on that?
Yes
Running a string from one end to another along the outside ridge, (at what point) how many inches of sag in the middle should I address a sagging roof?
That's tough to say. Maybe 2 inches in 20 foot. I think it would be better to find out why it's sagging and then address the issue and how much it will cost to fix.
Seems to me, you could use gluelam instead of a beam
You might be able to avoid trimming more if you put it in diagonally
If you can, but most of the time you can't get it to sit on one of the walls easy. It would make more sense if I was showing the rafters.