How To Raise Sagging Roof Rafters By Attaching New Ones To Old
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- www.homebuildin... Click on this link if you're looking for more helpful videos about roof framing, new home construction and building repairs. In this video I will provide you with an example that might work on your project if the roof rafters aren't sagging very much, by simply adding additional rafters next to the existing ones. Keep in mind that the information in this video and on our websites might not work on every building or for every project and if the damage is extensive, then the roof framing will need to be replaced..
I would also like to point out that this repair will work a lot better with dryer lumber and lumber lengths smaller than 16 feet. Longer rafter spans might require a supporting beam located somewhere in the middle of the rafter.
I will put a link here to a video where the rafters are about 22 foot long and already sagging on a brand-new home remodel.
ruclips.net/video/FDNCkuZairk/видео.html
Hey man the more I watch your videos the more I realize I need to just drive my truck right through my house lol
AAAAAAAhhhhhhhhhhh, don't do it:)
I am replacing some original 2x4 rafters on 24" center rafters on my 1910 home where the roof leaked through and additionally have 3 layers of shingles, the roof peak was also a 2x4 so I scabbed 2x2 to the bottom of the peak, then welded me a frame that spanned 4' and welded a base in it to match the 6/12 pitch at a 45 degree angle off the roof rafters, I then stuck a 2x4 under the sagging rafters and used a 30 ton jack to jack the rafter up to install a new 2x6 rafter, slipped it in right next to the old 2x4, used some of those sdws framing screws to screw the new 2x6 rafter to the 2x4 and screwed the bottom and top of the 2x6 to the peak and the outside wall. Seems a lot faster than what you are proposing, I do have 2x10 for my ceiling joists compared to a newer homes 2x4 or 2x6 ceiling joists. It is better than what I had and you can tell the difference on the outside looking at the room compared to before. The new 2x6 was cut at the peak to match so I could toe nail it in, and the bottom of the rafter sits on top of the outside wall, I had to learn how to use a framing triangle, was a good experience and saved some money.
Sounds like you might have a new framing repair method there. I don't think I say it enough in my videos, but sometimes we need to get a little creative, as you did.
Sound like a lengthy process brother but I'm glad it worked out for you. However I need to do the same on a ranch style home. I like your method but a few questions. How long did it take and how much?
I'm still working on it actually, my span to the peak is around 136" so I have to buy 2x6x12 at around 8.50 a board. Will be around 100.00. Takes about 45 min a board the way I'm doing it. Cost of the sdws screws is kinda pricey for what you get for screws. The 30 ton jack was from Harbor Freight. Probably 30.00 in steel and welding it. Not sure if this helps at all.
Tony Castillo I just discovered my 1905 Bungalow style home has 2x4 roof frame with no real support for rafters; 2x4 with 2x4 for support at the tops, no trusses, no rafter ties, no ceiling joists, no real supporting structure, etc. The second floor is not finished. I was acquiring a quote for solar installation and the solar engineers denied the installation because of this. I was planning on framing in the upstairs with a couple of rooms, full bath and then slowly begin adding the rest; electric, insulation, drywall, flooring, etc. However, now I understand I will need to have some kind of trusses and/or an equivalent support structure added if I intend on conducting any type of home improvement project. 🙁. I am researching varying methods prior to reaching out to any licensed engineer. I am watching all of your sites videos. They are VERY thorough and easy to follow. Would you have additional recommendations for resources? I wanted to make sure I haven’t missed other resources on your site; RUclips and Web site. Thank you!
I have a similar home and engineer wants me to add 2x10 rafter to one side of the true 2x4 rafter which is really 3 3/4. My entire span is almost 16 feet and almost a 6 pitch. Seems like 2x10 is a lot. How did your 2x6 rafter work out? And collar ties?
The engineer said I don't need to go to Ridge or top plate with the new sintered 2x10 rafter only close to it. I just think that's a lot of weight. Any ideas. Thanks
Talk about raising the roof!
The roof, the roof, the roof is on 🔥
I'm doing the exact same thing tomorrow. 3 sagging rafters on the left hand side. The video is 👌🏻👍🏾
Glad you liked it and thanks for commenting.
Thank you so much this is exactly what I looking for thank you
Glad I could help
What added consideration would I need for a roof with no ridge beam My rafters just meet at the peak no beam running length of the building
Awesome video! Love the visual aids thank you so much. Keep it up.
Comments like yours are always sincerely appreciated and glad you liked the video.
So you only put a single screw at the top joining new and old rafters. Then you jack the new rafter up, and finally actually nail it all along both after roof is level?
Great video. We have the same problem with our roof, several sagging rafters. The house was built in 1963 and the rafters measure 1-9/16" x 5-3/8" (2x6?) and the length of the rafters are well over 20 ft. The rafters should be larger, what do you recommend?
The first solution would be to install some type of a support beam located in the middle of the rafters and of course the beam would run perpendicular to the rafters. The second one would be to remove and replace the rafters with larger ones. Make sure you go to the website and check out more of our roof framing repair videos.
www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/framing/index.html
What’s the best way to figure out how to underside the low end of the sister? It seems like the shims at the top plate are trial and error, but how do you get the right rough dimension?
Roofing problem, can existing rafters be added to that will raise the ridge height to make room for HVAC duct work , the existing roof has a 4x12 pitch and there's no room to work easily? TIA
Yes, I would think so.
Some great ideas, Greg. Nice job on the video too.
Glad you like them!
Amazing video, incredibly helpful!
xlnt video. your methods will help on the next project. thanks again!
I'm glad you liked it and thanks for watching.
cut a wedge in the sagging joists works. thats what they did on our 1930's dairy barn hip type roof. decades of haymound condensation/frost in winter caused the roof joists to sag. ruff cut elm.
If there's one thing that will speed up the sagging process on roof rafters, it's lots of moisture.
Hey Greg
I love your videos.
I have some very strange roof trusses.
The problem I am having is some of the trusses are sagging. Any other tips when doing this on a truss. There is a fire wall that is fully supported and it is perfectly straight so the sagging ones are really noticable.
Even though I can't provide individuals with structural engineering advice, I like your plan. I'm not about to suggest that it will solve the problem, but I would imagine you would have a pretty good idea whether or not it's going to work after you install your first rafters.
HI great vid. Quick question how do you know what studs to remove under a stairs with a return ? can you remove all of them to create an open storage area. ?
It depends on the design. If the studs are used structurally and supporting a load like landing, then they need to stay.
This may seem like a stupid question, but I'll ask anyway. If I remove all my existing roof rafters and ceiling joists from my house, will my house fall down? The reason I ask is because my 1917 home's rafters are all sagging. Can I just remove it all and start fresh with either trusses or a bigger dimension of lumber for rafters and ceiling joists?
I could. You need to attach support bracing to the walls before you remove anything that could fall over.
@@gregvancom You would be willing to come rebuild my roof?
would you please give me a bit of advice on my 1950s house? Can i go in the attic and erect support beams between the rafters and the ceiling joists, in a inexpensive attempt to just prevent the sagging side of my hip roof from sagging any further or from caving in one day? thank you
I cannot provide you with structural engineering advice, but I've seen plenty of people do what you're suggesting. Keep in mind that support beams create concentrated loads that can create problems for walls or even floors if they are not supported properly. The load needs to transfer from the roof rafters to the beam, then usually through a post and down through the floor to concrete footings.
www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/engineering/index.html
My problem I see is not so much the sagging bowed rafters in my old house but the sheathing between the rafters drooping which is partical board garbage..
Yes that happens and if that's the case then the sheathing might be replaced with OSB or plywood
Thank you so much. My garage is 12’ 2x4’s and sagging badly. I desperately need to put on a new steel roof. I was thinking of building a flat 2x4 wall for resting the blunt end of a larger 2x6 as a new rafter. The 2x4’s are cut to a point and the overhang is attached from the outside. The ridge has plenty of room to accommodate the larger rafter so I was thinking of making a 6 inch wide ridge brace and that could help support the top side of the rafters. Do you have any suggestions for supporting the 2x4 so I can cut it and lift. I’m thinking the length will need support. Can I do one side of the roof at a time? Or must I alternate? Thanks a million
Hi there .IM running into the same problem How did you end up doing
Hello Greg and thank you for your videos. I have a question. I am about to install solar panels on my roof and was told the I need to reinforce my rafters to support the way of the panels only on the back side of the roof where the panels would go. The roof has a 6:12 pitch and made by 2x6 rafters. Horizontal span is 12 feet. The suggested method was to sister 2x6s on the existing rafters. My question is do I have to attach them on the ridge beam? Also, do I have to make birdsmouth cuts and extend them past the top plate or make an angle cut and end it right in the top plate? Thank you in advance!
It would be nice to have them full bearing, but it's going to be difficult to install them from below, without having either the top or bottom properly positioned. I've done it before, or without the approval of an engineer to where the top cut of the roof rafter was cut square so that I could slide it into place, but don't think an engineer would approve it. Let me know if that makes sense.
gregvancom Thank you for your quick response Greg. It’s nearly impossible to do it the right way with the roof on top and the ceiling and insulation on the bottom. Maybe I can use a knee wall or something similar to support the rafters. The ceiling joists are 2x6. Chrys
Any thoughts on what to do if the rafters are perpendicular to the floor joists?
I'm guessing that you made a mistake and meant ceiling joist and not floor joist, but let me know if this is wrong. If the ceiling joist run perpendicular to the roof rafters, then you can simply add a beam next to the existing ceiling joist that would span the desired length needed to do a similar repair like the one I'm suggesting. Let me know if this does not make sense.
@@gregvancom Hmmm. I’m not totally sure what they would be considered (I’m new to construction terminology). The joists I am describing would be the ceiling joists for the first floor. The ceiling of the second floor is a vaulted ceiling.
What can I do if I have a purlin in the way at midspan with the rafter being 4.8mt.
If you can lower it, then that might work, if not then the roof rafters might need to be modified in some way to make it work. For example you might need to install an additional seat cut so that the rafters can sit on top of the purlin.
@@gregvancom what about acrow props directly supporting the rafter to remove the purlin in order to create the space?
@@coachgius If you're referring to building a new wall to support the roof rafters or provide individual structural supports underneath each roof rafter, then that might work better as long as all of the structural load is transferring through the rest of the building correctly.
@@gregvancom once the rafter is doubled up the original purlin will be removed and new steel and timber load bearing wall will support rafters. So I was thinking to individually support rafters (with acrow props from the floor) at mid span and remove the purlin in order to fit the new rafters.
@@coachgius That sounds like a good idea, just keep in mind that I cannot provide structural engineering information, because I'm not a structural engineer.
Would it be better to cut the old rafter after the sister is done ?
I think I would cut the roof rafter before, just make sure that the existing roof rafter is properly supported so that it doesn't create a safety issue.
The point of the cuts is to allow the old rafter to flex as you jack up the roof. If you sistered first you would be strengthening the rafter in it's bowed postion.
Why would you install blocks at the soffits? Your blocking the roof ventilation and cause ice dams.
If you need ventilation in soffits, then it might be a good idea to install them in the soffit.
Yes, but your animation shows installing blocks right at the plate of the outside wall, which would block the vent from the Attic.
How bad a fix is separating roof deck from bad rafters in sagging areas and then sister rafters which means roof deck will have to be renailed to new rafters? The old ones can remain sagged if they are smaller dimension because they won't protrude in the way then of a possible attic ceiling? Is that not very strong?
If you're referring to installing larger roof rafters, then that might be a good idea, especially if there are opposing roof rafters on the other side or some type of bracing that would support the new larger rafters. Remember that adding additional weight to your roof framing system can create problems for your floor and wall framing if they are not reinforced also.
You might have to cut some roofing nails out of the way
Isn't that the truth.