This video is a treasure. I need to put a knee wall in my attic for a few saggy spots, but I've been concerned about how to judge not putting too much weight on the joists. That trick with using a 2x4 to pry them up is absolute gold.
You are AWESOME....Bud....This is a real challenge for old homes; especially with asbestos concerns and sweltering heat !!! A lot of people took out a lot of walls n the 1970s and 80s, which should not have been removed. Some old houses have gone through more than one previous reno, and you are often 'GUESSING' at what they used to fasten things.
Buddy..found your video while looking for sagging rafter repair ideas..I pretty much followed and did everything you showed on this video.I can tell you it worked out perfect and I managed to fix my issue. Thank you for your simple wisdom and your ability to share Cheers Paul
In most states with codes , placing ANY weight on ceiling joists to support a roof load is forbidden . The existing rafters on this house are wide enough but aren't supported correctly . a better solution is to use a true ridge beam where the rafters are ' hanging ' off of it with a birdsmouth cut as the rafters intersect the beam . then install two additional beams a third of the way down the rafters on each slope of the roof ,supported by the outside walls with posts extending all the way to the foundation. the rafters are also cut with a birdsmouth so the load of the roof structure is vertical /down and not spreading the outside walls . this is actually faster than the so-called traditional method . no other supports are necessary and the roof will never sag .
I don't quite understand what @siriosstar4789 is recommending (reframe the whole house?) but he does seem to raise a valid point: the IRC requires that purlin bracing be installed on load-bearing walls. I agree with SimonSaysDIY that keeping the distance from the ceiling joist ends low definitely helps (i.e., resulting in lower bending stresses than if installed nearer the middles of their spans) but you're still putting a bunch of the roof's load on the joist hangers which were only intended to support the ceiling system. It seems the earlier construction had that part right - tying the roof load to the load-bearing beam, though clearly their execution was poor. I do like the video and appreciate you sharing it. codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2021P2/chapter-8-roof-ceiling-construction "Purlins shall be continuous and shall be supported by 2-inch by 4-inch ... braces installed to bearing walls at a slope not less than 45 degrees ... from the horizontal."
Thanks for posting this. After this winter I noticed a sag in the roof and sure enough when I went up in the attic, I found one of the trusses had snapped. I made a quick repair to stabilize the truss but I think this is a good solution for repair instead of ripping off the ONLY 5 YEAR OLD ROOF. I'm no longer a fan of truss roofing systems. To me it doesn't matter how much wood you save using trusses because it's a loss when they fail.
Oh wow! Sorry to hear that. Thats a pain. The snow load might have been too much for the trusses to support. I'm glad the video could help! this should greatly increase the strength of the existing trusses.
A fine video and superb techniques! Before cutting each to same length, Did you originally determine this length by measuring at the gable end wall thus trying to adjust sag to match the non sagging rafter?
I need to do a similar job. My lower back and knees hurt just watching you work in the limited space 🤕 lucky for me I have more headspace to work with.
this video came at the perfect time. i have some rafters that are sagging as the house is 60+ years old. and I think a tree fell on the roof years ago. all the houses in my neighborhood have the same sagging just not as bad. I am going to use same style of supports. as for the homeowners and or contractor that left that roof like they should be ashamed to leave a mess like that.
I was about to ask the same question @breaktime. I think if you get that base in and cut one of the braces at the gable end (little chance of it sagging as it's sheeted) then duplicate from that oner. having made sure the base is parallel to the outside wall
There are a lot of bot comments on RUclips. If they say something illogical or claim to have literally the exact same scenario at the same time as in the video, be suspicious.
What you've done is SO much more tidy than what was there, and undeniably better. I can't help but worry that you're not overloading those 2x4 joists and risking bowing down the ceiling though. I think I would have run some 2x6 or 2x8 from the center beam to the sill, either with some hangers or sitting on top of the beam, so as to keep the load off the ceiling. Let us know later on if anything happened to the ceiling. I did something similar but fortunately had another load bearing wall to brace on.
Thanks! Yeah that was one of the options we were thinking about. Hopefully because it is only 2 feet from the main beam it should have plenty of strength. Also the joists are actually 2x6s. I’m keeping an eye on it and so far all good! :)
@@SimonSaysDIY your welcome.and the best part is they way the work was done and your guys movements and how delicate you were in the process means you actually enjoy what you do actually take pride and respect for the project.hard to find true people like this these days.👍
It wasn't too bad. With the two of us, we finished it in one afternoon. It helps to do this in the fall or winter seasons as the heat of summer can be hard to work in. Thanks!
Looks like you have a 2x8 screwed to the 2x4 for the L beam. Would the L beam be enough for roof support without the 3-ply beam? Not sure where the bearing wall is located under the ceiling to warrant a 3-ply beam. Thanks
so if the knee braces, or the strong backs were sitting on top of the ceiling trusses, what’s holding them up? once the load bearing wall beneath was removed?
Hey want to thank you for this video. Have a question I’m having this problem with a house I’m trying buy would this cost a lot for some else to do for me ? My wife really love this house and I’m thinking cause of this sagging roof we shouldn’t buy it. And if we do buy would you be interested in fixing it for us for a cost?
you should have attached the existing props to the existing beam with hangers so they would have been angled the same as they were before the beam installer hacked them off the old load bearing wall and then cross nailing them - relying on a few nails shear strength.
Great video! Out of curiosity, do you know if this will also fix a slightly sagging ridge beam?! Will raising the rafters also raise the beam? Our house was also built in the 60s. I do believe our rafters are mainly sagging due to the ridge sagging. Thanks in advance!
We held up the 2x4 next to the truss at the angle we wanted it to support and had the board just long enough to reach half way down the rafters. With the 2x4 next to the rafter we used a pencil to transfer a line from the top of the rafter on to the 2x4. After cutting that mark the other angle is exactly 90 degrees from that first cut. A speed square works well for getting the second angle. After that we placed the the cut 2x4 on the strong bad in place but left the 2x4 a few inches too long so that we could place in next to the truss and mark a line for the top angle. Hope that helps. Good luck! Thanks :)
Sure, the angle on these will depend on the angle of your roof. You can calculate the length and angle by going to a truss that is not sagging and hold a 2x4 up to the truss and strong back. Then run a pen along the strong back to get the angle. Cut and then repeat the same steps to get the angle and length for the truss. If it takes a few tries that’s fine. Once you get one done you can use it as the templet for the rest. Hope that helps. Thanks!!
You want to aim for a load barring wall on the floor below. The previous owner of this house opened up the space below and took out the walls that were supporting the roof and installed a main beam down the middle instead. We tried to install the strong back as close as we could to that beam. If the wall doesn’t r support beam is too far away you can get 2-3 feet from it and that worked for us.
Yes, but the wall here was taken out by the previous owner and they caused the sagging roof. If possible it’s easiest to go off of a wall but this is an example of how it can be done if that’s not an option.
I caught somewhere in the video around @8:30 - 8:45 that the father in law was eyeballing the level across a couple rafters with the 2x4. You could probably buy a proper level and use that to figure how much you need to push/pry the rafters. Definitely would want to get one of those 4 or 5 foot levels so you can easily measure across several rafters.
Haven't done the job yet, buy I used string to tie from one end to the other. Both end rafter boards are tied into the home. I find it easier to eyeball the ones that are sagging.@@mustache2295
I probably wouldn't pay more than $600-1000 that a big price difference but that will depend of the amount of materials and difficulty of the project. This project took two of us only one afternoon to complete.
There were a few vents but they weren’t located in this section of the house. There was loads of wiring that in a previous video I had to fix and organize. Because of that it was already out of the way of this project. The ductwork is in our basement.
Thanks for this. Did fixing the sag cause the roof to leak afterwards? We are facing a similar issue and have been told we need to re-shingle after the roof has moved to it's original position.
Thanks! No we didn’t have any issues with the roof after fixing this. However a few months later our home insurance made us replace our roof because of unrelated age issues with the roof. Hope that helps!
This is a nice video but there are a few problems I have here..... #1 you removed an acceptable bracing that you considered inadequate #2 you just placed a load in a random area of ceiling joists without adding any support beneath it #3 supports would be better suited perpendicular to your ceiling joist directing under what ever sag you have. #4 if this roof is actually sagging, why wouldn't you sister new rafters to the sagging rafters to avoid this problem for longer and possibly damage below ceiling joists? #5 you're wearing a respirator but no safety glasses.....
Please learn the difference between a rafter and a joist. It makes it very confusing calling ceiling joists "rafters". The strongbacks were attached to ceiling joists, not rafters. Also, there are no trusses in this attic that I could see. I think you are calling the rafters "trusses". Good job but, due to aberrations in semantics, a lot more confusing than it needs to be.
God loves all of us so much He came in the flesh to die and rise so that if we choose to accept Jesus as our one true Savior turning from our sins we may be gifted eternal salvation through Christ’s perfect sacrifice on the cross. Have a great day
I did ask a REAL Professional and he helped with the project. It was actually fixed correctly. However, there are also many other ways that this can be done and this solution won't work for every situation. Thanks! :)
@@SimonSaysDIYthis is actually false. You put a bandaid on a scratch... And never took the band-aid off or cleaning the cut so now it's going to get infected and cause issues elsewhere.
1 . This is why DIY’ers should not do this! When that wall was taken out and a beam in trust I can tell it was to code! U did not come along and save the day! The beam sits there and it u look above you will see collar ties to hold it together! Your wasting lumber and sound silly to a pro! Do not seal around your pot lights and keep insulation away from them ? Heat build up & that is why a lot of ppl in colder areas don’t like them! Because there is a minimal amount of air flow to keep them causing a possible fire! Nice job slick! I quit right here I seen enough to know your dangerous!
Thanks, But if it was done right then the roof wouldn't be sagging and supports missing. This was a typical BAD professional job. Supports for the roof taken out and never replaced. wiring cobbled together and scattered everywhere. Missing electrical box covers exposed wire connections and loose insulation moved during the remodel and never put back. Also, I know my limits so this is why I asked for help and had a real professional contractor advise and help with the project. Thanks for the feedback though! :)
I find that really hard to believe and no there is not so many way to fix a roof! I have never ever seen a roof fix like that come on ! It had collar ties !!!! PERIOD! I really do not care what you do! However you put it out on YT like it’s the right way??? The saying goes if you find yourself in a hole the 1st thing you do is??? STOP DIGGING! If I was fixing that roof 1st off you go to an engineer and hv your plan approved! It’s a roof not an office wall! I seen the braces and collier ties and NO SAG! U placed to much crap on the ceiling and eventually that’s a problem! Ask a contractor! Not the guy down the street that flips homes! This is my problem with YT! If I was the contractor and I seen your video and stating it was done wrong trust me I would see you on the legal field of play! Your not a carpenter or a contractor so that means you hv no idea what your talking about? Yet if you were a doctor and I had one of your patients on tv pointing all your supposed mistakes u would be pissed! Can you calculate rafter cuts for a roof? Figure your bd ft of needed lumber ? Use your framing square to figure the angle of my skirt board? Calculate rise/run for stair lay out? Guys train years to learn this craft & you buy a house open a YT channel and start pointing out all the carpenters mistakes? I am wasting my time ! Pls hv some respect!
This video is a treasure. I need to put a knee wall in my attic for a few saggy spots, but I've been concerned about how to judge not putting too much weight on the joists. That trick with using a 2x4 to pry them up is absolute gold.
Thanks so much! So glad the video was helpful! :)
You are AWESOME....Bud....This is a real challenge for old homes; especially with asbestos concerns and sweltering heat !!! A lot of people took out a lot of walls n the 1970s and 80s, which should not have been removed. Some old houses have gone through more than one previous reno, and you are often 'GUESSING' at what they used to fasten things.
My back and knees hurt just watching your father in law. That dude is amazing.
Buddy..found your video while looking for sagging rafter repair ideas..I pretty much followed and did everything you showed on this video.I can tell you it worked out perfect and I managed to fix my issue.
Thank you for your simple wisdom and your ability to share
Cheers Paul
So glad to hear it was helpful!
Thanks! 😄
This video was exactly what I needed for my roof issues. Thanks a ton.
So glad it could help. Thanks!! Good luck with your project!
I’ve been trying to tackle this issue for years and didn’t know where to begin. The strong back you put on the floor was a great idea.
Thanks! Glad I could help!
Love this. Thank you! I'm in the middle of a similar problem and think this gives me a better idea as how to fix it. New subscriber for sure.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!!
Great video. I’m about to reinforce my roof. This showed me exactly how to approach my project.
Awesome! I'm glad the video could help. Thanks!!
In most states with codes , placing ANY weight on ceiling joists to support a roof load is forbidden .
The existing rafters on this house are wide enough but aren't supported correctly . a better solution is to use a true ridge beam where the rafters are ' hanging ' off of it with a birdsmouth cut as the rafters intersect the beam . then install two additional beams a third of the way down the rafters on each slope of the roof ,supported by the outside walls with posts extending all the way to the foundation. the rafters are also cut with a birdsmouth so the load of the roof structure is vertical /down and not spreading the outside walls . this is actually faster than the so-called traditional method . no other supports are necessary and the roof will never sag .
Interesting.
Can you give us a pointer to you tube videos?
I’d need a visual explanation 😂
I don't quite understand what @siriosstar4789 is recommending (reframe the whole house?) but he does seem to raise a valid point: the IRC requires that purlin bracing be installed on load-bearing walls. I agree with SimonSaysDIY that keeping the distance from the ceiling joist ends low definitely helps (i.e., resulting in lower bending stresses than if installed nearer the middles of their spans) but you're still putting a bunch of the roof's load on the joist hangers which were only intended to support the ceiling system. It seems the earlier construction had that part right - tying the roof load to the load-bearing beam, though clearly their execution was poor.
I do like the video and appreciate you sharing it.
codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2021P2/chapter-8-roof-ceiling-construction
"Purlins shall be continuous and shall be supported by 2-inch by 4-inch ... braces installed to bearing walls at a slope not less than 45 degrees ... from the horizontal."
Prayer for the guys that installed those rafter ties
That’s extremely helpful at this very moment! Thank you!!
So glad! Thanks :)
Thanks for posting this. After this winter I noticed a sag in the roof and sure enough when I went up in the attic, I found one of the trusses had snapped. I made a quick repair to stabilize the truss but I think this is a good solution for repair instead of ripping off the ONLY 5 YEAR OLD ROOF. I'm no longer a fan of truss roofing systems. To me it doesn't matter how much wood you save using trusses because it's a loss when they fail.
Oh wow! Sorry to hear that. Thats a pain. The snow load might have been too much for the trusses to support. I'm glad the video could help! this should greatly increase the strength of the existing trusses.
This is just what l was looking for, you did a great job
Thanks! 😁
Excellent!
You make a very complicated project look so easy!
Thanks, I try to make it as understandable and simple as I can. My farther in law was a huge help with this one.
A fine video and superb techniques! Before cutting each to same length, Did you originally determine this length by measuring at the gable end wall thus trying to adjust sag to match the non sagging rafter?
Great video series on the attic stuff. Looking to do this to my 1916 Craftsman bungalow 🙏🏼
I'm glad the videos could be helpful! Good luck with your project!
I'm remodel my how right now.. and i run in the situation like this... glad to see this video.. thank..
So glad the video could help! Thanks!
I need to do a similar job. My lower back and knees hurt just watching you work in the limited space 🤕 lucky for me I have more headspace to work with.
Haha yeah it was not fun! Good luck on your!
this video came at the perfect time. i have some rafters that are sagging as the house is 60+ years old. and I think a tree fell on the roof years ago. all the houses in my neighborhood have the same sagging just not as bad. I am going to use same style of supports. as for the homeowners and or contractor that left that roof like they should be ashamed to leave a mess like that.
Thanks so much! Good luck with your project!
loooks like a good plan !
Very Nice! Looks nice and strong now.
Thanks! it made a very noticeable difference from the outside out our house :)
Very helpful, exactly what I need.
So happy to hear that! :) Thanks!
I was about to ask the same question @breaktime. I think if you get that base in and cut one of the braces at the gable end (little chance of it sagging as it's sheeted) then duplicate from that oner. having made sure the base is parallel to the outside wall
This is great
10/10
I'm genuinely confused on who and how you could dislike this video.
Thank you! I’m very glad you liked the video!
Thank you for this
Thanks!! 😁
Thanks for the video. Being a roofing contractor I get the odd customer with old houses who want the sagging trusses fixed. Good to know.
Your very welcome! I’m so glad my video could be helpful!.
Thanks! :)
Scary that you are a roofing contractor and don't know this already. It's like a licensed plumber watching youtube videos to learn how to do plumbing.
There are a lot of bot comments on RUclips. If they say something illogical or claim to have literally the exact same scenario at the same time as in the video, be suspicious.
thanks
What you've done is SO much more tidy than what was there, and undeniably better. I can't help but worry that you're not overloading those 2x4 joists and risking bowing down the ceiling though. I think I would have run some 2x6 or 2x8 from the center beam to the sill, either with some hangers or sitting on top of the beam, so as to keep the load off the ceiling. Let us know later on if anything happened to the ceiling. I did something similar but fortunately had another load bearing wall to brace on.
Thanks! Yeah that was one of the options we were thinking about. Hopefully because it is only 2 feet from the main beam it should have plenty of strength. Also the joists are actually 2x6s. I’m keeping an eye on it and so far all good! :)
wow those rafters moved with ease. great job
Thanks. My father in law showed me that tip and it worked surprisingly well!
what I loved the most is that you definitely have an awesome father in law.
Love the Sid Harvey’s coat
Man that looks great.
Thanks!
How could you tell how much to jack it up in each spot? Unless the roof was already straight…
Awesom video
Thanks so much!
Could you attach this strongback to the main load bearing beam to have an open/cathedral ceiling?
Damn good work 👌👏👍
Thanks! 😄
@@SimonSaysDIY your welcome.and the best part is they way the work was done and your guys movements and how delicate you were in the process means you actually enjoy what you do actually take pride and respect for the project.hard to find true people like this these days.👍
Any video or pics of exterior roof coming up good job.
With a 12 foot rafter, could I lift it to restore a 3 inch bend? Great video
video makes it look easy.
It wasn't too bad. With the two of us, we finished it in one afternoon. It helps to do this in the fall or winter seasons as the heat of summer can be hard to work in.
Thanks!
Looks like you have a 2x8 screwed to the 2x4 for the L beam. Would the L beam be enough for roof support without the 3-ply beam? Not sure where the bearing wall is located under the ceiling to warrant a 3-ply beam.
Thanks
What Quality of lumber for these supports? Hardwood? I am guessing regular pine boards are not going to do it. Thanks
my roof is 14 ft from the ridge to the side wall. Where should I put the 2x4s to push up the rafters?
so if the knee braces, or the strong backs were sitting on top of the ceiling trusses, what’s holding them up? once the load bearing wall beneath was removed?
A very useful video. There are many ways to skin this cat and your solution seems sound.
Thanks! Yeah it may not work for every situation but it is a good option to explore along with other ideas before jumping into a repair.
Hey want to thank you for this video. Have a question I’m having this problem with a house I’m trying buy would this cost a lot for some else to do for me ? My wife really love this house and I’m thinking cause of this sagging roof we shouldn’t buy it. And if we do buy would you be interested in fixing it for us for a cost?
How did you determine your length for your rafter ties you installed.
how did you determine the length of the beams that go from the roof to the ceiling at an angle?
you should have attached the existing props to the existing beam with hangers so they would have been angled the same as they were before the beam installer hacked them off the old load bearing wall and then cross nailing them - relying on a few nails shear strength.
How long did it take you to complete this project.
I am needing to repair a sagging roof. Who would benefit me the most , a structural engineer , a framing carpenter or booth?
Great video! Out of curiosity, do you know if this will also fix a slightly sagging ridge beam?! Will raising the rafters also raise the beam? Our house was also built in the 60s. I do believe our rafters are mainly sagging due to the ridge sagging. Thanks in advance!
Shouldn't you be using a level to check how much each roof rafter is sagging before pushing them up?
How did you find the 2 angle cuts at the bottom of the strong back? thx and great video
We held up the 2x4 next to the truss at the angle we wanted it to support and had the board just long enough to reach half way down the rafters. With the 2x4 next to the rafter we used a pencil to transfer a line from the top of the rafter on to the 2x4. After cutting that mark the other angle is exactly 90 degrees from that first cut. A speed square works well for getting the second angle. After that we placed the the cut 2x4 on the strong bad in place but left the 2x4 a few inches too long so that we could place in next to the truss and mark a line for the top angle.
Hope that helps. Good luck! Thanks :)
2 Questions
1. What angles are you cutting the 2x4 ends (that are going on the strong backs)?
2. How did you determine the length of those 2x4s?
Sure, the angle on these will depend on the angle of your roof. You can calculate the length and angle by going to a truss that is not sagging and hold a 2x4 up to the truss and strong back. Then run a pen along the strong back to get the angle. Cut and then repeat the same steps to get the angle and length for the truss. If it takes a few tries that’s fine. Once you get one done you can use it as the templet for the rest. Hope that helps.
Thanks!!
How do you know where to put the strong backs? Thanks for the video!
You want to aim for a load barring wall on the floor below. The previous owner of this house opened up the space below and took out the walls that were supporting the roof and installed a main beam down the middle instead. We tried to install the strong back as close as we could to that beam. If the wall doesn’t r support beam is too far away you can get 2-3 feet from it and that worked for us.
How would you apply these methods to a full hip roof?
Do the same video but for the ridge line sagging please
What is your roof pitch? I have a very low roof pitch and consider reframe to access the attic easier to insulate it...
Thanks, for the video now I have an idea of why my roof is sagging in the front. Now I need to call a roof contractor to do the repair.
Glad to help! Thanks!
I’m having this same problem after a tree limb fell on my flat roof. No one won’t go in the attic but want to replace it. I’m Just stuck
I have to do this also on a 50 Year old house Addison. I like your way better that using 2x4's and pcs of plywood on each side of the rafters.
Thanks! I'm glad my video could help. Good luck with your project! :)
Doesn't this put more load on the ceiling? Verses going off the top plates of walls and using the appropriate size perlin?
Yes, but the wall here was taken out by the previous owner and they caused the sagging roof. If possible it’s easiest to go off of a wall but this is an example of how it can be done if that’s not an option.
On the top of the 2x4 support did you just run a string line on top to get them on the right spot?
We measured down from the peak of the roof on each side and ran a chalk line string to make the placement. Thanks!
Ok thanks for the reply!
That's a lot of additional support. I'm almost wondering if you could park a car on your roof now.
Haha 😂 well I think it’s safe to say the roof will no longer be sagging 😁
It's not additional, it should have been there from the beginning.
How did you determine how long to make all the braces?
Also, how did you determine if the rafters were pushed up far enough?
I caught somewhere in the video around @8:30 - 8:45 that the father in law was eyeballing the level across a couple rafters with the 2x4. You could probably buy a proper level and use that to figure how much you need to push/pry the rafters. Definitely would want to get one of those 4 or 5 foot levels so you can easily measure across several rafters.
Haven't done the job yet, buy I used string to tie from one end to the other. Both end rafter boards are tied into the home. I find it easier to eyeball the ones that are sagging.@@mustache2295
Hey guy , I have about a 15 or 20 ft section that needs lifting , being disabled what is a ballpark cost on having it done ,so I don`t get ripped off
I probably wouldn't pay more than $600-1000 that a big price difference but that will depend of the amount of materials and difficulty of the project. This project took two of us only one afternoon to complete.
@@SimonSaysDIY THANKS VERY HELPFUL
@@SimonSaysDIY how big is your roof?
👍
Thanks! 😄
You didn't have any wiring, gas lines, exhaust vents, water supply lines or duct work to deal with?
There were a few vents but they weren’t located in this section of the house. There was loads of wiring that in a previous video I had to fix and organize. Because of that it was already out of the way of this project. The ductwork is in our basement.
Thanks for this. Did fixing the sag cause the roof to leak afterwards? We are facing a similar issue and have been told we need to re-shingle after the roof has moved to it's original position.
Thanks! No we didn’t have any issues with the roof after fixing this. However a few months later our home insurance made us replace our roof because of unrelated age issues with the roof.
Hope that helps!
@@SimonSaysDIY Man, I'm in the same situation. Shingles are old, but I'm trying to fix sagging rafters and a deflected ridge before I begin.
Was the the roof "ridge sagging?"
This is a nice
video but there are a few problems I have here.....
#1 you removed an acceptable bracing that you considered inadequate
#2 you just placed a load in a random area of ceiling joists without adding any support beneath it
#3 supports would be better suited perpendicular to your ceiling joist directing under what ever sag you have.
#4 if this roof is actually sagging, why wouldn't you sister new rafters to the sagging rafters to avoid this problem for longer and possibly damage below ceiling joists?
#5 you're wearing a respirator but no safety glasses.....
👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️
Use kas, yas bro as cover?
Thanks, I appreciate it! 😁
Great video but I see no trusses only rafters and ceiling joists
You are correct! Thanks for setting me straight! 😂
Recorded horizontally:)
Anyone else uneasy with the tape job on that transformer?
Maybe those braces are doing a bit of work, would it not be safer toremove one at a time just make sure yu don't have the roof collapse?
Also wondering about codes, and putting weight on the ceiling joists
Why not just go right back to the center beam rather than make those strongbacks and cut/secure them properly so they do bear the load?
If the angle is too steep, what about making a web?
Please learn the difference between a rafter and a joist. It makes it very confusing calling ceiling joists "rafters". The strongbacks were attached to ceiling joists, not rafters. Also, there are no trusses in this attic that I could see. I think you are calling the rafters "trusses". Good job but, due to aberrations in semantics, a lot more confusing than it needs to be.
Agree. I thought surely someone caught this.
is your dad a licensed carpenter.. red seal ? just wondering ?!
One misstep and you'll be replacing your celling.
Very true. It would be easy to lose your balance and fall through the ceiling.
Get a roof bra,
CE
Thanks!
God loves all of us so much He came in the flesh to die and rise so that if we choose to accept Jesus as our one true Savior turning from our sins we may be gifted eternal salvation through Christ’s perfect sacrifice on the cross. Have a great day
Thanks! 😀
Great to see a Christian sharing the good news about Jesus!
Dear Lord ! If you just ask a pro your making a mess!
I did ask a REAL Professional and he helped with the project. It was actually fixed correctly. However, there are also many other ways that this can be done and this solution won't work for every situation.
Thanks! :)
@@SimonSaysDIYthis is actually false. You put a bandaid on a scratch... And never took the band-aid off or cleaning the cut so now it's going to get infected and cause issues elsewhere.
1 . This is why DIY’ers should not do this! When that wall was taken out and a beam in trust I can tell it was to code! U did not come along and save the day!
The beam sits there and it u look above you will see collar ties to hold it together! Your wasting lumber and sound silly to a pro!
Do not seal around your pot lights and keep insulation away from them ? Heat build up & that is why a lot of ppl in colder areas don’t like them! Because there is a minimal amount of air flow to keep them causing a possible fire! Nice job slick!
I quit right here I seen enough to know your dangerous!
Thanks, But if it was done right then the roof wouldn't be sagging and supports missing. This was a typical BAD professional job. Supports for the roof taken out and never replaced. wiring cobbled together and scattered everywhere. Missing electrical box covers exposed wire connections and loose insulation moved during the remodel and never put back. Also, I know my limits so this is why I asked for help and had a real professional contractor advise and help with the project.
Thanks for the feedback though! :)
I find that really hard to believe and no there is not so many way to fix a roof!
I have never ever seen a roof fix like that come on !
It had collar ties !!!! PERIOD!
I really do not care what you do! However you put it out on YT like it’s the right way???
The saying goes if you find yourself in a hole the 1st thing you do is??? STOP DIGGING!
If I was fixing that roof 1st off you go to an engineer and hv your plan approved! It’s a roof not an office wall!
I seen the braces and collier ties and NO SAG!
U placed to much crap on the ceiling and eventually that’s a problem!
Ask a contractor! Not the guy down the street that flips homes!
This is my problem with YT!
If I was the contractor and I seen your video and stating it was done wrong trust me I would see you on the legal field of play!
Your not a carpenter or a contractor so that means you hv no idea what your talking about?
Yet if you were a doctor and I had one of your patients on tv pointing all your supposed mistakes u would be pissed!
Can you calculate rafter cuts for a roof?
Figure your bd ft of needed lumber ?
Use your framing square to figure the angle of my skirt board?
Calculate rise/run for stair lay out?
Guys train years to learn this craft & you buy a house open a YT channel and start pointing out all the carpenters mistakes?
I am wasting my time ! Pls hv some respect!
@@SimonSaysDIY don't feed the grizzly construction trolls
Could you do a video showing how you would do it. This seems good to me.
too fast
too dumb.
Watch again, take notes, pause, don't be an idiot.