Science of Simple Spans of Floor Joists

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  • Опубликовано: 27 июн 2024
  • Learn about simple spans of floor joists, including load, bearing, span, height and width of joists, bridge blocking, and the code. Subscribe for new video uploads at ruclips.net/user/BenGromi...

Комментарии • 596

  • @alexjames1146
    @alexjames1146 2 года назад +74

    Simple, clear and well structured.
    Each relevant section is presented and can thus be further researched. Thank you.

  • @ttb1513
    @ttb1513 Год назад +32

    This is simply an EXCELLENT summary for the layman, who is not a structural engineer. Thanks so much!

  • @stuffoflardohfortheloveof
    @stuffoflardohfortheloveof 2 года назад +5

    Fair play that was extremely well presented and explained. I’m in the UK and, although, we have our own building regs, this made complete sense. Well done! 👍🙂🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад +1

      Thank you. I love the UK. Can't wait to come back and visit.

  • @mikezimmermann89
    @mikezimmermann89 Год назад +5

    VERY WELL done! I didn’t learn much by way of practice (observation and mimicry have made sure all my DIY projects have been safe and compliant); but, now I understand WHY many requirements are what they are, and WHY certain practices seem ‘right’ and others seem ‘wrong’. In particular, I have a much better appreciation of the role of joist hangers and blocking. THANKS!

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  Год назад +1

      Thank you! Cheers! That information is from Glenn Mathewson from buildingcodecollege.com/. Check him out.

  • @kalibbybee4764
    @kalibbybee4764 2 года назад +5

    So much info jam packed in this video. Gonna have to throw it on repeat. Great work!

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад +1

      Awesome, thank you! Thanks for watching the video. The information about spans comes from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @MegsCarpentry-lovedogs
    @MegsCarpentry-lovedogs 2 года назад +51

    During the pandemic there has been a significant increase in DIY'ers. So, your presentation is very much appreciated. I just had a brief discussion with a structural engineer this past week. I have since been researching more and more about forces on trusses and joists. All this is to help with an extension project and attic conversion in the future, after the supply chain issue and lumber prices hopefully will decline. Thank you. I also really appreciate the images and drawings. The more the merrier because visual presentations add so much more clarity and depth to any presentation, and yours was really important💯👍🇨🇦

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад +4

      Thanks for watching the video. The information about spans comes from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

    • @MegsCarpentry-lovedogs
      @MegsCarpentry-lovedogs 2 года назад +1

      @@BenGromicko Thank you. I have viewed a few more of your vids. The long one on inspecting cracks trusses was really informative. Keep up the good work. I will check out the link you sent. 👍🇨🇦😉

    • @Viscous_Dampers_For_Houses
      @Viscous_Dampers_For_Houses 2 года назад

      ;

    • @revolution6133
      @revolution6133 2 года назад

      Lumber prices won’t be going down for a long time. Local lumber prices are going up every week!

    • @MegsCarpentry-lovedogs
      @MegsCarpentry-lovedogs 2 года назад

      @@revolution6133 Here in Canada I am hoping that the Bank of Canada measures with their slow increase in interest rate hikes will somewhat curve the lumber prices amongst other pricing issues. Yes, patience is key. In the meantime I continue to save money, investing it in trading with solid companies that have a long history of increasing and sustaining their dividend. So, no rush because I get paid as I wait and keep reassessing the construction industry situation here in Atlantic Canada, East coast. Stay strong, keep safe.💯🇨🇦🍁

  • @bobcougar77
    @bobcougar77 Год назад +18

    Good stuff: I really liked your explanation of joists wanting to lay flat in the middle of a span and how that ties in to blocking reduces deflection. I've always heard that blocking doesn't make a floor "stronger", while experience has taught me that midspan blocking makes it "better" Your video clarified my thinking on this. Thanks!

    • @keno101
      @keno101 Год назад +3

      I've always heard that about blocking as well, but like you, I've always had a different opinion. It is just common sense that mid-span blocking will help distribute the load evenly across more of the joists at the point of maximum deflection.

    • @mikewilson9349
      @mikewilson9349 Год назад +2

      What it doing is bracing against lateral torsional buckling. That’s what this “flopping” that he talked about is. Bracing the top flange by nailing the subfloor to it and bracing the bottom flange by nailing a drywall ceiling to it does the same thing.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  Год назад +1

      Glad it was helpful! Thank for watching the video about simple spans of floor joists. The content was provided by Glenn Mathewson at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @Peter-.H
    @Peter-.H 2 года назад +2

    This is a great video. No nonsense and very well explained.
    Thank you very much 👍

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Glad it was helpful! The content was provided by Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @Nonya_Business44
    @Nonya_Business44 Год назад +1

    Straight forward to the point. No stupid commentary. Also, the formulas are a plus. 👍

  • @tonyv8925
    @tonyv8925 2 года назад +7

    Interesting information. I learned a few things today. Thank you for taking the time to share and teach.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад +1

      Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching the video. The information about spans comes from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @Mr.Brandon.
    @Mr.Brandon. 2 года назад +6

    WOW THANK YOU. I recently bought my first house and have been working on repairing the sag in the middle of the floor. I've been sistering a bunch of the joists with new wood and its taking me a lifetime due to the incredible amount of work. Also I wasn't sure if I was taking the best approach from an engineering stand point and this helps a lot. I'm going to to utilize these bridge blocks to significantly reduce the amount of work I will need to successfully complete my DIY job. Thanks again for this knowledge, it's very valuable to me

    • @setdown2
      @setdown2 2 года назад +8

      Solid bridging will strengthen a great deal as once tied together function as a whole unit…if over eight ft. in length install two rows I did it to my house and I have 2x8s that span a bit over 12 ft, …I put in two rows of blocking and it work very well…much cheaper then sistering especially these days…good luck…

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад +3

      Thank for watching.

  • @mikecothran5808
    @mikecothran5808 2 года назад +5

    Ben you did a great job explaining that hidden life of a joist...thanks dude

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching the video. The information about spans comes from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @mikec5513
    @mikec5513 2 года назад +3

    Excellent delivery of the information. Thank you.

  • @The_Real_Indiana_Joe
    @The_Real_Indiana_Joe 2 года назад +9

    Allowable deflection. I used to design I-joist floors in their beginning. Most people thought I-joists were designed to span super far, but the fact is, they were designed to be super predictable. I always designed floors to over perform, because most home owners expected better performance. Most home owners would be surprised to know, at the time, 9 1/2" I-joist DID NOT out perform 2x10s in a simple span. As a designer, I was always thankful that 'unacceptable deflection' was a long way from failure.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад +5

      Good comment. Thank you for watching. And I love your brother's movie.

  • @nagadsby9413
    @nagadsby9413 День назад

    Fantastic video! Clear and concise.

  • @stevenomnipitent6208
    @stevenomnipitent6208 Год назад +5

    Well done sir, I had thought that what you explained was common sense until I became involved in a rebuilding project. The carpenter didn’t understand the superior strength of the 100 year old true dimensional hardwood joists, the contractor disputed the interior walls as supporting walls. I am showing them this lecture to support my positions, although today’s professionals only want to work with new materials.

    • @mikewilson9349
      @mikewilson9349 Год назад +1

      If the joists are bearing on the interior walls, then they are “supporting walls”.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  Год назад

      Thank for watching the video about simple spans of floor joists. The content was provided by Glenn Mathewson at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @jasoncy31
    @jasoncy31 2 года назад +1

    Lots of good info here! I'm building my own barndominium and I'm at the joist stage. I appreciate it

  • @charpnatl
    @charpnatl Год назад +1

    I have so much appreciation for this presentation I love this practical application of science!

  • @Austin1990
    @Austin1990 2 года назад +12

    As an engineer, I think codes are really cool. They take a lot of research and experience and produce simple guides.

    • @jerryhuff86
      @jerryhuff86 2 года назад +2

      So true, and yet, people dread and fear codes.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад +1

      Thanks, Austin. I agree with you.

    • @G53X0Y0Z0
      @G53X0Y0Z0 2 года назад

      In our world there seems to be no end to rules and regulations, many which are based upon uneducated opinions and wild guesses that haven't had much thought put into them and are effectively useless. But when it comes to this subject, there is relatively precise data available from actual tests, so the results are predictable and can be measured. I wish all builders were aware of this. Start with your design needs, error toward the heavy side if unsure, and calculate what you need to achieve that. That's a much better approach than taking a wold guess and seeing how it turns out. And, it's always better to go a little heavier duty than needed to go a little cheaper and try to compensate some other way for marginal or sub-par performance. You never hear anyone say they wish their floor or roof wasn't so strong. Along this line, you might even find out that you can use a smaller framing member than your hunch and still meet the design goals.

    • @Austin1990
      @Austin1990 2 года назад

      @@G53X0Y0Z0
      I have a very different opinion of codes versus requirements. People should not be building anything unless they know enough to use codes, but I think codes should be more like certifications rather than requirements. Requirements are often discriminatory and political whereas codes are just standards.
      For instance, bars/clubs have much less regulations to meet than churches (at least where I live). We saw this firsthand when bureaucrats decided which establishments were essential, closing outdoor dining of small restaurants while allowing massive gatherings of corporate establishments. Non-sensical (and anti-science) requirements were placed on stores that actually facilitated viral spread rather than reducing it, in the name of science of course. Many of these destructive and financially burdening requirements are still in place across the world. It was a perfect extreme to illustrate why requiring anything, even if the reasoning sounded good at first, is a violation of freedom which should never be allowed.

    • @mechanicalman1068
      @mechanicalman1068 2 года назад

      @@Austin1990 wrong soapbox.

  • @specializedconstructioncol7797
    @specializedconstructioncol7797 2 года назад

    Thanks for the Info, The Outline how it was explained was great

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching the video. The information about spans comes from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @JustaSimplefact
    @JustaSimplefact Год назад +1

    So good, rebuilding a deck inside a warehouse, you put all my worries to rest. Thank you

  • @stipcrane
    @stipcrane 2 года назад +2

    Excellent assemblage of information and great presentation. I enjoyed watching it.

  • @cindylee2379
    @cindylee2379 2 года назад

    Thank you. This explained a lot of questions I had about why stick frames are built the way they are.

  • @douglaspollock102
    @douglaspollock102 2 года назад +7

    Thank you for putting this together Ben. I’m in the process of building a torsion box for a CNC table, and your presentation helped me with a few terms and concepts. :)

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Glad it was helpful!

    • @onlythetruth883
      @onlythetruth883 9 месяцев назад

      douglas
      What's a torsion box?
      And what does that CNC machine do?
      We have a small Woodwork factory.

  • @dongrossarth403
    @dongrossarth403 2 года назад +1

    Well explained, visual aids, photos, etc, would also help tremendously.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Thanks for watching the video. The information about spans comes from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @nicodiep
    @nicodiep 2 года назад +1

    Good to the point, helpful information! Liked it a lot! Thank you!

  • @GoHerd2001
    @GoHerd2001 2 года назад +1

    This is fantastic information. Thank you!

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Glad it was helpful! The info came from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/

  • @garbo8962
    @garbo8962 Год назад +2

    I live in a 16' wide row home ( actually closer to 15' wide when you subtract the 10" poured concrete basement walls. While I was drilling 4 or 5 holes thru each basement joists noticed the two doubled up ones that provide extra support I guess for where stairwell is took a lot longer to drill my 3/4" diameter holes. While pulling wire noticed the doubled up joust were 3 by 12 and a different guess stronger species of wood. Bet contractors have not did this use in many years. While an electrical apprentice we were taught to avoid the middle third of all joists whenever possible. Also believed it was better to drill two 3/4" holes at least two inches apart then a big 1.25" hole for wires.

  • @kurtislane8795
    @kurtislane8795 2 года назад +1

    Great info Ben! Thank you.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      My pleasure! The info came from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/

  • @tangotango3406
    @tangotango3406 2 года назад

    Just stumbled across this vid and WOW!! Awesome! Thank you for sharing this information!!

  • @someonespadre
    @someonespadre 2 года назад +2

    My house was built in 1935. Over the living room are 6x8 joists (exposed, no blocking). True measurements are 5-1/2 x 7-1/4. They are on 32” centers, 15 foot spans. Walls are concrete block with open cells. I don’t know how much they bear. The first joist is on the edge of the stairwell and has the bedroom wall sitting on it, it is visibly deflected or curved downwards and has cracks along roughly the middle sides. The rest of the joists look good, straight, no cracks. The sub floor above is 1x12 knotty pine panelling with Douglas fir floor on top.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Good to hear, David. Thanks for watching.

  • @chrislambert9435
    @chrislambert9435 Год назад

    Thankyou for the help you've given in this presentation . . . Chris . . . Norwich, England

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  Год назад

      Thank for watching the video about simple spans of floor joists. The content was provided by Glenn Mathewson at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @martyjoseph9507
    @martyjoseph9507 Год назад

    One of the better explanations I've watched

  • @DBaileyandAssociatesRealty
    @DBaileyandAssociatesRealty 2 года назад

    Love this!!! About to take the residential contractor exam.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Nice. Best wishes to you. Post how it goes.

  • @billyjacksimmons9947
    @billyjacksimmons9947 2 года назад

    I agree with Douglas, thanks for the knowledge.

  • @RP-mn2vm
    @RP-mn2vm 2 года назад

    Same I learned a bit more then expected. I love learning the why of things.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      The content was provided by Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @johngardiner8847
    @johngardiner8847 Год назад

    Beautiful explanation- concise

  • @scotttprosser4719
    @scotttprosser4719 Год назад +1

    Very good informative video. Try to find a span table for your jurisdiction and you will find that the allowable span increases with the addition of solid blocking, cross bridging, cross bridging with strapping under the joist and also with construction adhesive with the subfloor. I believe in our area the max span for 2x10 ss spf on 16" oc is 16' 1" with 2 rows of crossbridging with strapping and glued 5/8" subfloor as opposed to about 13' 5' with just subfloor and one row of strapping which is the bare minimum.

  • @michaelneville2915
    @michaelneville2915 Год назад

    Thanks Ben, learnt something and enjoyed your presentation. I know that seasoned and unseasoned timber have different ratings as well.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  Год назад

      Thank for watching the video about simple spans of floor joists. The content was provided by Glenn Mathewson at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @mike7357
    @mike7357 Год назад

    Very helpful video! Thank you!

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  Год назад

      Thank you for watching. That information is from Glenn Mathewson from buildingcodecollege.com/. Check him out.

  • @objuan6
    @objuan6 2 года назад

    Excellent video!
    I am certain to refer to it in coming project.

  • @brettharman8921
    @brettharman8921 2 года назад +4

    floor decks people perceive to be "unacceptable" is really due to the deck weight per sq ft being "light". a "light" deck produces a lot of vibrations when people walk across the deck and describe this as "bouncing". if you would have placed 1-1/2" of of gypsum leveler on top of that same deck configuration, hence increasing its weight per sq ft, the deck would produce less vibrations and be perceived to perform better. vibration reduction is also done with blocking/ bridging along the joists, sheathing the underside of decks and perpendicular partitions to the floor joist direction. these items mostly dampen vibrations by connecting all the diaphragm/ floor elements together at more "points" to absorb vibrations induced by loads/ people walking- good video!!

    • @DGander007
      @DGander007 2 года назад

      Bingo !

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Thanks for watching and commenting, Brett.

  • @shanea9613
    @shanea9613 11 месяцев назад +1

    Thank you very much. This all makes sense to me now. My attic build will be better for it. Cheers

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  11 месяцев назад

      Great to hear! That info comes from Glenn Mathewson of buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @chaplainand1
    @chaplainand1 2 года назад

    Thank you. Much appreciated. Now I know more about what I don't know.

  • @iandavis1355
    @iandavis1355 Год назад

    Wow, very well done. Thanks.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  Год назад

      Thank you too! That's from buildingcodecollege.com/glennmathewson/

  • @seankelly1291
    @seankelly1291 Год назад

    I learned more information, useful information, here than any other video designed to easily propogate as an ad-hoc, overly generalized, and otherwise useless answer my question. At least now I know how to mitigate my problem.

  • @AlexeiTetenov
    @AlexeiTetenov 2 года назад

    Thank you for sharing!

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      My pleasure! The content was provided by Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @2020HotShotTruckingLLC
    @2020HotShotTruckingLLC 2 года назад +2

    I built a "pit" for servicing my trucks and searched for guidelines for the beams I used. I couldn't find anything that applied to what I was building so I erred on the side of safety. The pit was constructed outside between my deck and my garage so I don't have to worry about air quality like pits built in a garage floor. I started by building a 10 x 10 concrete pad with two sections of concrete filled block pillars 8" x 32" at the end (actually, these pillars are part of a concrete filled concrete block wall, so the pillars are effectively 16 x 32 also). Then 4 concrete filled concrete block pillars 16" x 32". I spanned the pillars with 2-2x12's and 4 2x10's to create each "beam" with added blocking and 2x10's for decking. The beams are about 14' long, supported by the 3 pillars on each side. My trucks weigh around 9500 lbs. and I was real nervous when I tested it the first time. I set up a tape measure at the middle of the longest span and was unable to detect any deflection whatsoever. Obviously I over engineered my project, but at least I know that I can change the oil in a semi without having to rebuild it bigger.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад +1

      Great information and feedback, Hot Shot Truckin'. Thanks for watching and sharing that information.

  • @keithkuckler2551
    @keithkuckler2551 2 года назад +5

    My od carpenter rule of thumb, when using softwood framing lumber, was to divide the span, and, add 2, so for a 16 foot span, you would use a 2x10 for a normal load. Using structural fir, makes them stiffer, or switching from 16inch spacing to 12 inch spacing also increases strength, Adding blocking between joists stiffens floors because is limits deflection. Now we use a lot of structural lumber, or engineered floor systems, here we generally rely on the reccomendations of the supplier.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      That's great stuff, Keith. Thank you for sharing.

    • @warrenshalm550
      @warrenshalm550 2 года назад

      Hi Keith. Here in Canada our code will allow a 2x10 to span approximately 13'-8" to 14' depending on bringing and strapping. 2x12's are 15'-6" or slightly better. These are @ 16" o.c.. it was an interesting talk.

    • @keithkuckler2551
      @keithkuckler2551 2 года назад

      @@warrenshalm550 I live in estreme north east Minnesota, our county does not enforce a building code on resedential structures. Most licensed contractors do use the national codes. Your spans sound about what I have used, of course if you specify structural grade fir, as opposed to just softwood lumber, you will get much stiffer floors. As I said, using 12 on centers will also allow for longer spans with a given joist. Also using bridging to avoid deflection also helps. Most of our floors are now down with TJI's or some other floor truss system. The TJI's are lighter, have knock outs for electrical and plumbing, and, can be ordered in long lenghts, so even if you use a center beam or wall you can use a continuous joist, we can get them up to 32 feet in lenght. They have also replaced solid wood rafters in a lot of roof framing.

    • @warrenshalm550
      @warrenshalm550 2 года назад

      You're absolutely correct Keith. The betyer grades of lumber have greater spans and of course engineered lumbere has become popular for reasons you state. What has driven the choice in the last year for us has been availability shortages. That is in everything related to construction.

  • @DerekMacaroni
    @DerekMacaroni Год назад +1

    Thanks for this video. I was worried that the floor spans in my Minecraft castle might be too long, but this helped me to understand why some of the historical floor plans I've seen had >10 m wide rooms with wooden floors -- medieval contractors probably didn't care about floor sag as much as we do today (and trusses probably helped too). Now I can build my 10 m wide wood floors without worrying about historical accuracy. I'll just have to remember not to put all my chests in the middle of the room.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  11 месяцев назад

      Great to hear! That info comes from Glenn Mathewson of buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @Faruk651
    @Faruk651 Год назад +1

    I hope this video gets watch by those in trades who believes mid span blocking is not really necessary. No, it is a MUST for a wood floor joists. In my own build i blocked every joist tight and glued. The difference before and after is incredible. It doesn’t only help to stiffen the floors but it reduces vibrations.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  Год назад

      Thank you for watching. That information is from Glenn Mathewson from buildingcodecollege.com/. Check him out.

    • @briangc1972
      @briangc1972 Год назад +1

      The number of blocks and the spacing of the blocks often overlooked. Too often people put a single row of blocks in the middle and call it good. A block every 4 feet along the length of joist is a cheap investment and a huge improvement in structural integrity and strength. Structural screws instead of nails are actually faster to install and are by far stiffer and stronger than nails as well. No such thing as too many blocks.

    • @Faruk651
      @Faruk651 Год назад

      @@briangc1972 Totally agree from my experience. Material doesn’t cost much to blocking but it is a little labour intense if it is done right. To me blocks needs to be a tight fit and glued and screwed. If you are nailing a loose block you are asking for squeks as the joists deflect.

  • @paulleos162
    @paulleos162 Год назад +2

    I used 2x 6x 30' iron C purlin. I welded back to back to make into an "I " beam. For my
    Floor joists. No squeeking here. I put the 3/4 inch plywood across two sections to see deflection in floor then I spaced out I beams until no floor deflection. I also put another 1/2" plywood glued to 3/4" layer opposite direction.
    Very very strong floor.

  • @davidfowler7558
    @davidfowler7558 Год назад

    Awesome information & explanation!!

  • @michaelaltizer3571
    @michaelaltizer3571 2 года назад

    Thanks Ben Gromicko and InterNACHI

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Our pleasure! Thanks for watching the video. The information about spans comes from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @brucemarmy8500
    @brucemarmy8500 Год назад

    TY I actually learned some things from this video.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  Год назад

      All homes should be inspected by an InterNACHI certified home inspector at www.nachi.org/certified-inspectors. Thanks for commenting. - Ben.

  • @dandeleona4760
    @dandeleona4760 2 года назад

    Wow. Right to the point. Thanks. :)

  • @robertburke4402
    @robertburke4402 Год назад

    Good video presentation. Thanks!

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  Год назад

      Thank for watching the video about simple spans of floor joists. The content was provided by Glenn Mathewson at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @fluffymittens24
    @fluffymittens24 3 месяца назад

    Pretty informative. Learn with each one.

  • @kenschmidt6522
    @kenschmidt6522 2 года назад

    I added blocking to a 1922 home we owned. It made a huge difference.

  • @cnuts45
    @cnuts45 2 года назад

    Amazing job at explaining this concept

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Thank you.

    • @cnuts45
      @cnuts45 2 года назад

      @@BenGromicko I hope you teach at a high school or college because you’ve got a gift

  • @MrDarren5012
    @MrDarren5012 2 года назад

    Great video..thank you

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Thank you too! The content was provided by Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @Krunch2020
    @Krunch2020 4 месяца назад

    Thanks. Folks should know that a structural engineer can analyze issues for little money. I opened a ceiling and found one 2x4 holding a roof load. I knew I could use a simple 4x6 beam but couldn’t contact the clients to approve the design change. I went to a local structural engineer. He quickly entered the data of the existing structure in that area into his computer program. I was able to use three select structural 2x4’s laminated together and keep them hidden above the ceiling drywall. $200 well spent!

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  4 месяца назад

      Thank you for watching our videos and commenting here.

  • @oldgoat8861
    @oldgoat8861 Год назад

    Well presented for those who need to learn the basics.👍👍👌👌

  • @lonhenderson5671
    @lonhenderson5671 2 года назад

    Well done!

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Thanks, Lon, for watching the video. The information about spans comes from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @thomasb.1825
    @thomasb.1825 2 года назад +9

    Very interesting and above all informative .. tone, voice and content are perfect … just wish you were able to provide us with drawings or pictures for each case it makes it way easier for your audience to understand faster or make sure we have the same idea in mind … I’m nonetheless very grateful for the great explanation you granted us with in this video!

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Good comment and advice, Thomas. I'll do better next time.

    • @Garciastar7Blogspot
      @Garciastar7Blogspot 9 месяцев назад

      I am a visual person so I have to see it so having a pictures or drawings illustrations that would be perfect that would be nice if could do part 2 with images would be amazing.
      Just a thought.
      Thank you so much.

  • @chrisalister2297
    @chrisalister2297 6 месяцев назад

    Great info. Subscribed.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  4 месяца назад

      Thank you for subscribing.

  • @charlesviner1565
    @charlesviner1565 2 года назад

    New subscriber from Davenport Iowa USA 👍

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Welcome aboard! The info of this video came from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/

  • @invest2wealth111
    @invest2wealth111 2 года назад

    Thank you! 👍

  • @michaelmccormick1547
    @michaelmccormick1547 2 года назад

    I am currently restoring (not rebuilding) a home that is about 100 years old. They used 2x6s and 2x8 for the floor joists. Many have cracked on the sill plates. I am keeping with the same pattern but replacing joists of the same size using joist hangers, structural bolts for sistering, blocking, and post supports. it is a small house, 1300 sqft, so without over-engineering things, I think updated lumber and structural support should be enough to keep this house sitting for much longer. It is also grandfathered into our local building codes so I do not need to perform intense structural changes or have them inspected to modern codes.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад +1

      Thanks for watching, Michael. And for commenting.

  • @bertdrake
    @bertdrake Месяц назад

    Thank you!

  • @LordVoltRod2c
    @LordVoltRod2c 2 года назад +1

    I wonder if joist flop over is similar to when I was a little kid and decided to do a tight rope walk on the edge of the cat's litter box. I balanced myself so the plastic edge of the litter box was supporting my weight, but it tipped over at mid-point. I think it's because the plastic started to buckle causing a twist in my applied weight. There was a solid support for my weight at the box corner but when I got mid-point something like torsion was created. Of course, my mom was not happy about me using the cat box for stress testing.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад +1

      Thanks for watching. The info of this video came from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/

  • @mariuszzobinski4564
    @mariuszzobinski4564 Год назад

    Topic very well explained! :) But in my opinion it would be even 100x better with ilustrations of what you are describing at the moment.

  • @tomtaggart3788
    @tomtaggart3788 Год назад

    Well, I’m glad someone else out there is advocating for a minimum of L/360 TL deflection!

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  11 месяцев назад

      Yep. That info comes from Glenn Mathewson of buildingcodecollege.com/ who wrote that content.

  • @Thedar561
    @Thedar561 3 месяца назад

    A old school builder taught me years ago about spans.
    Get your length and half it and plus one is the best I’ve ever heard.
    So on a 20 ft Span half it plus one and it’s a 11 inch timber

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  3 месяца назад

      That's a great tip. I like it.

  • @fredmyers423
    @fredmyers423 2 года назад

    Thanks, I am building a log cabin with 30 foot span however I am installing footing piers every 10 feet and was wondering about floor joist loads

  • @PedroMarinURL
    @PedroMarinURL 2 года назад +1

    magnificent explanation..! Ben, You are an Engineer...! or better, a great engineering instructor..! simple, easy..!

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Wow, thanks! Thanks for watching the video. The information about spans comes from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @Gandoff2000
    @Gandoff2000 2 года назад

    Very interesting!

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      I agree. The info of this video came from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/

  • @dutchleussink156
    @dutchleussink156 2 года назад

    Thank You Sir

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Most welcome. Thanks for watching the video. The information about spans comes from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @rhymereason3449
    @rhymereason3449 2 года назад

    Very informative. I wish someone would talk about the relationship between deflection and load. For example are the directly proportional - i.e. for a given span does twice the psf equate to twice the deflection? And what are the deflections before a joist actually falls from shear? I'd like to be able to calculate the actual weight a span can carry before failure if deflection is not a critical factor.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Good idea, R&R.

    • @rhymereason3449
      @rhymereason3449 Год назад

      @Robert Swaine Thanks for that detailed answer! I had 2 years of general Engineering studies but switched to Comp Sci before picking an Engineering Major... but I still find structural and mechanical engineering fascinating. I get why the emphasis with joists is always on deflection... but sometimes I don't care about deflection or "bounce" and just want to know if a structure will carry the load with a reasonable margin of error baked in. These are usually just shelving or storage projects - never anything life critical btw. And yeah... I can see how testing wood for tensile strength could be real tricky!

  • @rdred8693
    @rdred8693 3 месяца назад

    Very helpful for aquarium keepers

  • @unclecraigbaannawk
    @unclecraigbaannawk Год назад

    wow...in simple terms....thanks...this video was just what I needed...all my beams are solid teak and I was worried about the span I am building....not anymore!

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  Год назад

      That info was provided by Glenn Mathewson from buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @stratocruising
    @stratocruising 2 года назад +4

    One point I would like to add from the real world is the effect of knots in joists. During an inspection, I saw a garage ceiling with 2 x 8 joists. Three consecutive joists had a knot in the bottom edge about three inches deep. They had deflected about two inches and were starting to crack along their length from the top of the knot. I would say that the framer should have been hung from those joists for using those particular pieces, but he'd probably escape unharmed.

    • @The_Real_Indiana_Joe
      @The_Real_Indiana_Joe 2 года назад +1

      😅

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад +3

      You're correct. Good point about knots in solid lumber. They're like bored holes.

  • @scottperry8388
    @scottperry8388 2 года назад +1

    Thank you, very informative. It was a little to technical for a layman, though. Some illustrations could have helped, like at the beginning, to understand the industry specific terms.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Glad it was helpful! The content was provided by Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @danieljackson4266
    @danieljackson4266 2 года назад

    Great video

  • @erickv8684
    @erickv8684 Год назад

    This is the side of RUclips for men, fathers, and builders of America.

  • @PaintSlinger99
    @PaintSlinger99 9 месяцев назад

    Very interesting and informative

  • @rajivvashm6046
    @rajivvashm6046 2 года назад +1

    awesome tutorial... just what I need to confirm the builder is doing it right ! :) I will sleep better cheers

  • @tamerhamdy3308
    @tamerhamdy3308 Год назад

    wonderful

  • @lizannelorusso6221
    @lizannelorusso6221 2 года назад

    Very helpful video. I want to lift my floor joists (in order to replace the center beam or main girder) so I would like to clarify with you that using a 4x6x10' piece of lumber supported by two jacks (of appropriate strength) would be better than say a 2x8x10' piece of lumber as it doesn't have the same amount of area for the jack to support the beam above. Each 4x6x10 will likely support 7 floor joists. (I will do a row of these to support 45ft length house.) With an estimated house weight of 150,000 lbs, I'm planning to use a series of 5 support beams (2 jacks each) for a total of 10 jacks on one side of the girder and the same set up on the other side of the girder) If my jacks hold 15000 lbs each then I have 150,000 lbs supported on just one side of the girder. I personally think a wider piece of lumber would be better than a narrow piece of lumber. Thoughts?

    • @edwardschmitt5710
      @edwardschmitt5710 2 года назад +2

      This is a comment section not free structural engineering. And you need to lift all ten jacks in synch with each other or you will damage your framing and sheet rock will crack all over.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Thank you, Lizanne, for watching. I appreciate it. And your comments.

    • @MAGAMAN
      @MAGAMAN Год назад +1

      @@BenGromicko Way to completely ignore their questions.

  • @georgeliquor2931
    @georgeliquor2931 2 года назад +2

    An old joiner once told me half span plus 1, so a span of 10 feet/2=5+1=6, joist required=6x2

    • @westwonic
      @westwonic 2 года назад

      I was taught the same.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      I love those old-timer rule of thumbs.

    • @georgeliquor2931
      @georgeliquor2931 2 года назад +1

      @@BenGromicko Dont use a screw when a nail will do, Geof Hirst RIP

    • @internachi
      @internachi 2 года назад

      @@georgeliquor2931 Nice.

  • @kennytaylor2738
    @kennytaylor2738 Год назад

    Excellent video my friend

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  Год назад

      Thank you! Cheers! That information is from Glenn Mathewson from buildingcodecollege.com/. Check him out.

  • @mpmt1031
    @mpmt1031 2 года назад +1

    This is really helpful but can you please have visuals for those that Learn with visual presentations.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Yes. The content was provided by Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @humansustainability
    @humansustainability 6 месяцев назад

    great! thanks

  • @WillN2Go1
    @WillN2Go1 2 года назад

    Good video. Thanks. Shear failure is interesting. I saw this at my sister's house. Her teenage sons had a few wild parties and one of the joist cracked and was 'bouncy'. The crack wasn't a horizontal line, however it did start near the middle of the joist along the grain and then followed that grain as it curved downward to the bottom of the joist where it left an open gap. (2x10 to 2x4) Joist span, construction, etc were all standard. I think this problem was caused by unusual stress, not ideal grain structure in the wrong place, and there was no blocking any of which would probably have been enough to stop it from happening. And the fix was simple (I'd flown cross country so I didn't have the tools to do it), lift the broken joist with a 2x4, sister up the joist and install blocking. I think this failure speaks to the robustness of standard joist construction. I've seen other failures in very old houses, undersized members, too large or too many utilities holes drilled, very old, very dry lumber, or rot/termites. (This Old House runs into this all the time)
    I've often told people (something that might not be true - please correct me) "a standard floor in house construction built to code can hold 2000 pounds per square foot." I would use this as an argument for why a staircase should be built following code, or why a garden deck needs beefing up. I think it's clear how useful the statement is - if it's true. What would be a better way of expressing this thought to an inexperienced DIYer? (I think porches and decks are where the most code violations occur. I've done it myself. The only one I'll admit to is a foot off the ground - I can't imagine any building inspector even bothering to look at it.)

    • @G53X0Y0Z0
      @G53X0Y0Z0 2 года назад

      Forty pounds per square foot is typical of a basic residential floor design load, a house floor capable of adequately supporting 2,000 lbs. per square foot would be pretty stout. Could park your truck on it.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад

      Thanks for watching and your comments.

    • @WillN2Go1
      @WillN2Go1 2 года назад

      @@G53X0Y0Z0 It has to hold more than 40lbs ft^2, I weigh 166 my feet are less than a foot long, so each foot exerts 83 pounds in less than a square foot. Even in my ratty 70 year old house no sag or squeaks. I also remember standing underneath the main level of my in-laws house on a steep hill in Silverlake (Los Angeles, California) and realizing I was below their two car garage. 2 x12" (maybe 14") 16 OC, a two-car garage is at least 18' x 20' span, blocking? (I guess I could find my photo.) Light weight concrete , but that floor has to be much much stronger than 40lbs ft^2. And after 40 years no cracks. My Tesla weighs 4400 lbs, that's 1100lbs/tire. I don't think it would put any sag in that floor - or there'd be articles on collapsing hillside garages. (I googled and found a few items, mostly due to water seepage.)

    • @rhymereason3449
      @rhymereason3449 2 года назад

      @@G53X0Y0Z0 But that design load is for an L/240 or better deflection ratio typically - which doesn't address actual failure limits. I understand that the code tables have a lot of built in safety... but sometimes it'd be nice to know where the failure limit actually is - but I suspect that they're worried if they actually published that, some would abuse the information.

    • @G53X0Y0Z0
      @G53X0Y0Z0 2 года назад +1

      @@WillN2Go1 - loads can be calculated and expressed in different ways. I think that the way terms are expressed and understood may be what is causing the question. Also, just a couple of inches of joist depth or a few inches of span increase or decrease can alter it's load bearing capacity significantly.
      You in-law's garage was likely stronger than a 40 lbs. per square foot. Concrete actually has some flexibility and a slab can bend or deflect some without cracking. There are different strengths of concrete and much depends on how it was cured too. Concrete is not very strong in tensile loads, and most cracks are from shrinking. Of course there are limits of how far a concrete slab can be bent before it cracks. And, a concrete slab or other thick sheeting can help spread out loads. There also concrete slabs that are "pre-stressed", they are made usually in a factory setting and then delivered to the installation site. They are made to function as a load bearing structure such as a roof, wall, or floor. So it's perhaps possible the slab was something like that?
      If you had a 20'x10' (200 square feet) room and the floor was engineered (properly) to hold 40 lbs. per square foot then you should be able to put 8,000 lbs. in that room if it was pretty evenly spread out. But if you had a 4,000 pound object that was 1 square foot in size and put in in the middle of the span, the load would be on on or two joists in their weakest place. That kind of load is called a point load, and needs to be calculated differently to find the appropriate joist (or beam) size, because the weight is not spread out. If that load is close to the end of the span, the joist can support it much easier than if the same load was in the middle.
      So, just for simplicity if the 4,400 lb. car put 1,100 lbs. on each tire you would have four 1,100 lb. point loads. As it rolls into the garage the leading tires first put their load on the ends of the joists, and then the middle of the span, and as the leading tires get closer to the other ends of the joists the back tires roll onto the floor, and assuming the joist spans (distance between supports) are not very much longer than the car, the loads end up close to the joist supports where joists are strongest.
      If you put 2,000 lbs. per square foot on every square foot of our 200 square foot room, and that adds up to a total 400,000 lbs. , which is quite a difference from 4,100 lbs, which is the weight of 20 or 30 adults.

  • @JoeSyxpack
    @JoeSyxpack Год назад

    What I see a LOT in houses I've worked on for restoration is holes for wiring and plumbing being drilled far too close to the tension portion of a joist, sometimes even notches cut right out of the bottom. Not only is this annoying because when cutting through or tearing down ceiling drywall you have a high risk of damaging electrical and plumbing (not to mention people who do that never put up nail guards), but it effectively reduces the strength of each joist by how much was cut or drilled out. What's more, if someone else goes in and drills additional holes in at the proper distance, now they're cutting though the new tension point that the first person created, further reducing the load the joist can handle.

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  Год назад

      Thank for watching the video about simple spans of floor joists. The content was provided by Glenn Mathewson at buildingcodecollege.com/.

  • @paparayg
    @paparayg 2 года назад +10

    If you want to increase the load bearing capabilities of your joists without too much of an additional expense, fasten a steel strap to the bottom of each joist (it can be every other joist depending on your load bearing requirements for the floor). Steel strapping comes in 25 foot lengths up to 16 gage with lots of holes the entire length. Use 2 to 3 inch deck screws every 4 to 6 inches. The result is that all "tension" is moved to the bottom of the joist with the "neutral plane at (or near) the bottom of the joist, leaving all of the joist as the "compression area". "Deflection" will be greatly reduced compared to a joist without the steel strap. "Weight bearing" capability will probably be at least double that of a joist without the steel straps. A good idea is to extend the ends of the strap around the ends of each joist a couple of inches and fasten with two deck screws. I use this idea on fence posts that always eventually rot right at ground level to keep them from being knocked over too easily!

    • @BenGromicko
      @BenGromicko  2 года назад +2

      Thanks for the feedback. The info of this video came from Glenn at buildingcodecollege.com/

    • @Mr.Brandon.
      @Mr.Brandon. 2 года назад +3

      Interesting comment, thanks.

    • @jamesrussell6870
      @jamesrussell6870 2 года назад +1

      Load sharing bridging is code in most places..

    • @paparayg
      @paparayg 2 года назад +3

      @@jamesrussell6870 Thanks! I didn't know it was called "load sharing bridging". I've never seen this done by anyone else, and for me it was just solving a problem using basic physics. I'm a DIY handyman type with no formal training in construction.

    • @jamesrussell6870
      @jamesrussell6870 2 года назад

      @@paparayg It's just called bridging. Primarily for sharing load with adjacent members...

  • @joelalleman9591
    @joelalleman9591 20 часов назад

    does r301.7 apply to roof joists on a flat style roof ? I recently observed 5/8 inch deflection on a 20 foot span with 10.5 inch wide joists on 24 inch centers when the roof was loaded with a 1500 lb. piece of equipment in the center of the span. the center area had blocking added to help spread the load out over a larger area in the roof structure . This "dead load " would be added to the capacity of the roof when supporting snow and rain in winter .

  • @alphaomegalives
    @alphaomegalives Месяц назад

    pictures or animations (real life examples) would help this video alot

  • @thuss5162
    @thuss5162 2 года назад

    If you really want a lesson on wood strength get bowers bible #1 and #2 it explains grain strength compression and tension from ancient bows and arrows the different species and also teaches you primitive bow building!this is a very good video on the subject

  • @markb.1259
    @markb.1259 Год назад

    Very interesting information. Thank you! Almost couldn't see the speaker other than his arms and face... 🙂