Mid Span Blocking: Why Do It & How? || Dr Decks
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- Опубликовано: 7 мар 2023
- One of the most important parts of deck building is making sure it is stable. One of the simplest and best ways to do it is to add mid span blocking. We'll show you how to do it DrDecks style.
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Thanks for your content. I am almost complete with my first deck and your channel has been by far the most helpful.
Excellent presentation and explanation.
I’ve build about 40 decks over the last 20 years. I always let my joist run wild, start at the house and 2’ or so from the outside of the deck calculate my rim and facia with a 3/4” overhang and cut my joist accordingly. Thanks for all your great content!
I re-decked mine with existing good joists and ledger connections, about 15 ft span. In addition to copper coat and joist tape on the top of the joists, I added blocking and it stiffened it up really good. made a world of difference. thanks for the tip!
Tips and Hints 100% Thank You!
I’ve had an Irwin quick grip for about 3-4 years now, moderate to heavy use and man does that thing work amazing and grips as strong as it did brand new!
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It’s also called solid bridging. Makes the joists work together
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Hello Doctor! Question: I will be installing decking boards with picture frame on the outside. I know I have to block the outside double rim joists to support the decking boards. Question is - will the 4" Fastenmaster screws be OK to fasten the blocking? Or does this require joist hangers? Thanks! I am learning a lot from your videos.
I see you run Metabo tools too. I have just about every make/model of 1/4" impact you can think of but for most jobs I grab one of the triple hammers. They're just so damn good and compact to get in tight spots like between 12" centers joists
A good stiff deck is good to have.
Did he take the time to draw that center line on both sides of each joist ?
Grasias
can you just use 3-1/2" galv. framing nails?
This so depends on having some nice quality straight lumber. Sometimes not so easy to obtain.
Blocking is really for keeping joints plumb/vertical which is in their strongest state . Also for transferring loads from joist to joist as if they’re one. Each one assists the adjacent in carrying the live and dead loads.
Yea, it does all the other stuff the guy said in the video too.
The failure mode of joists is twisting more so than snapping. The blocking fixes that
Good explanation of the purpose of strutting. Either solid or herringbone strutting are common forms of stiffening floor joists.
@@TheChupacabra doesn't the decking prevent twisting?
Glue & screw, or just screw, in a basement ceiling retro-fit situation?
How do you feel about self-supporting decks? Not needing a full ledger board attached to the house is something I like.
What drill/driver do you use? I like how compact it is.
Metabo HPT Triple hammer
couldn’t you use framing nails here in stead of structural screws for the blocking?
tough to get hammer in the for top nail.
Even with a nail gun , nails always end up getting squeaky and sometimes loose. Idk how many nails I’ve had to pull out during floor installs and replace with screws.
I thought code requires mid-span blocking to be a minimum of 60% of the height of the joist....am I wrong?
In the UK its 75 %
in the US there are various requirements for blocking, but since this blocking is not a structural requirement at all, no minimum exists
Holy shit! at least 30 flippin block, if they stopped at the corner. that 120 4' Timberloks.
Thats a little less that 100$ just for screws, not including labor and blocking, DAAAANG! I love it. No expense spared! I would have likely not thought it necessary for those, over the 3.5 inch construction screw. Hey Dr., Do you think construction screws would be ok for this? They would be better than nails , right?
Hey Doc. Thanks. Im new to the channel. I subscribed last week and already am about 10 videos in. Great helpful information from a master to a small-time contractor cutting his teeth! Again, Thank You!
he has that luxury due to customer base for the level of deck he is building. best practice isn't always affordable to everyone.
You can get 100 5/16” grk for $50
I've never seen pressure treated lumber like this in the southeast US. What species wood is it, and why the patterned indentations on the lumber?
I don't know what species he's using but the perforations are to allow the pressure treatment to soak in deeply
He's mentioned in a few videos that it's pressure treated Hemlock and isn't readily available outside of the West Coast. He also mentioned the indents help the chemicals soak into the wood during the manufacturing process.
southern pine doesn't require incising for preservative uptake, douglass fir and hem fir require incising for preservative uptake
Good video.
One note. I've been called out by my inspector here in WI/MN for not using full height blocking. I now usually just use joist material and rip 1/2" off for flushing up...
Understood. I explained that we’re running a waterproof bladder and needed to keep the blocks low.
@@drdecks yep same here. I was using rain escapes. I think inspector just wanted to give me some grief.
@@dustinmarquand5301 so how did you fit the rain escapes in?
@@majermike we just recently did one again and cut a bare minimum "u" shape or dish out where rain escape passed over it. this inspector didn't look twice at it 🤷
Code is 60% of joist depth, at least over a beam. I’m sure the inspector wouldn’t like to be schooled though…
When would you do mid span blocking vs V bracing
mid span blocking is always needed. v bracing is used when needed to stop a deck from swaying.
@@MrDougfunny7 why would mid span blocking always be needed? I'm a structural engineer and I don't see much purpose, "needed" is a strong word
What are the dash marks in all your boards? I’ve seen that on a couple videos and I’ve never seen wood like that. Maybe I’m dumb for asking.
That's pressure treated wood...The cuts are to allow for the chemicals to seep into the wood.
Can anyone tell me what type of lumber is being used here? I see some type of machining marks on the lumber but I don't recognize it. I live in the south and the only thing that I can get at Lowes/Home Depot is cedar of pressure treated pine.
It's likely pressure treated douglas fir. Pressure treated southern yellow pine is a good bet too.
@@drummerforpeace no, SYP would not have incising marks
What are the dimensions of this deck? Are far are the joists Spanning from the house ?
Why do you ask that question? It is the first thing he said in the video. 16 Feet, 30 joist, 16inches on center.
Is blocking required for 2x8 on an 8 foot span, 16" OC?
no, why would you block it? what purpose would it serve? waste of money
So, on a 16-foot joist span, did you think about two rows of blocking? To make 3 sections of 5 ft 4 in each? I am working with 2x10 joists, a span of 12 feet, and I thought maybe I should have two rows of blocking, and that's 4 feet shorter than yours! But I don't know, that's why I'm asking!
I feel this method is sufficient
@@drdecks the dr has prescribed 😎
Nails will loosen. Screws will hold tight.
I ran a similar method. Instead of a 12 foot span it’s about a 6 foot span. Would you recommend mid blocks in the center?
I think code says the block must be 60% or more of the joist height
With those 4" screws, it spitting a problem on the blocks?
Ties the joist together for additional strength and stops sagging.
Anybody else see how they cut off one of the flanges on the joist hanger? Look at the joist by the corner of those. I hope Decks M.D. here makes a video about inverted flange joist hangers on the corners. Idk about simpson but mitek/usg says NEVER to modify their hangers.
Looks like it's a corner joist/angle hanger. Different from an inverted...
It’s not modified. It’s a L90Z.
@@drdecks I didn't know you could use those at the start/ends of joist runs. I was planning on using concealed joist hangers, but would rather use L90Zs
@@redmonkeymakersI still would use the inverted.
I prefer straight line blocking
Before long that will get all lose and wobble like It's not even there. You should use all thread with nuts and washers.
How about using nails rather than screws? Especially since you are using the clamps.
Screws are always better, but nails do work ofc
Nails will work but may loosen up in the future.
A 2x 12 is the same thickness as a 2 x 4. Twelve is the width of the board.
I’ve been building decks for 20+ years, I have never seen a 16’ deck without a center support, where are you building theses decks at. When you have a a deck 12’ in depth code requires a center support.
Why would a 16 foot deck require support in the middle but a 16 foot ceiling/2nd floor doesn't?
Or maybe i misunderstood what you meant
Because you don’t have a live load on your ceiling,where as your deck you have a number of people at certain times
@@raydavis168 i meant the floor joist of a second floor are the same joists for the first floor ceiling. There will be people and objects resting on those joists above... Right?
I dont know. Ive never built a house or a deck so im probably missing something obvious
@@derekofbaltimore my bad I misunderstood your question. I thought you were talking about just a ceiling.
Just use nails for the blocks. Why would you waste all that extra money for structural screws?
Because they are structural and screws
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@@majermike yes i am a bot, and a Nigerian prince with $9 million dollars in a swiss bank account, i also sell a secret all natural drug to make your penis grow 50% larger.
HI. WHAT IS THE TYPE OF JOIST MATERIAL AND WHAT ARE THE MARKS?
DOES IT HAVE SOME TYPE OF PRESSURE TREATMENT?
😅😅Hat man richtige Querschnitte braucht man das nicht. Keine Torsion. Nur bei euren STREICHHÖLZERN.