Another tip: Put the auger bit on the ground before you start it turning. You can see in the vid how much it wobbles around before it touches the ground. If you want any sort of accuracy, you need to touch down first. Also, as they go deeper into the ground, the angle changes. Have an assistant watching from side-on, and they'll tell you when you need to reposition the machine so that you're still drilling vertically.
My problem with renting a dumpster was people in the neighborhood throw their crap into it during the rental time. I will show up and there's a nasty couch or mattress in it. Bags of trash, TVs ... you name it. Then I was stuck with the extra costs. I now make a pile of debris and then rent the dumpster for one day. Drop off in the morning, they pick it up 6 hours later. It's gone before people can sneak their trash into it.
Ouch that sucks! Luckily for me I've never had to deal with that issue before in my area but good on you for figuring out a way to do it by just renting it for a day. Thanks for watching!
As a former kitchen contractor my crew would COMPLETELY gut the existing kitchen in one day and my hauling subcontractor would do a late afternoon pickup and sweep. When the homeowner arrived it looked like nobody showed up for work. Boy were they surprised when they went inside!
I’ve seen a couple of your videos and they are pretty good. I’ve been in the trades for 35 years. Good content here, especially with composite decks. I have to make one suggestion. Do not use a surveyors tape to check for square on a larger deck. You need to buy a 100’ steel tape. A surveyor tape is plastic and will stretch/shrink due to the temperature. A steel tape will not stretch/shrink. Hope this helps.
stretch is fine as long as you measure at near the same time. It is a relevant number. Like my step meter can be way off- does not matter. I try to best it each day.
Surveying technician here. We almost never use tapes to measure distances between monuments. Total stations and GPS systems are pretty well standard now. If we use a 300 or 100 ft vinyl tape it’s because we are looking for something and are trying to get close enough to use a metal detector. Only tape a surveyor should be using to take measurements of record is a steel tape. The steel tape doesn’t stretch like a vinyl tape when pulled tight for a measurement, but it will get longer and shorter with temperature changes. However, it is constant and you can account for the dimension differential if properly motivated.
Yup! Blocking is definitely a must. Here’s a suggestion for you. Since your joists are on 16” centers, the spaces should all be the same. Cut all of your blocking before you start hanging your joists. Then install the blocking and joists at the same time. It will remove the necessity of measuring and cutting between each joist bay and keep your joists more parallel on the 16” centers.
The joists can move around quite a bit with blocking, you only need to measure the first and last one. The first measurement for all but the last, the las one for the actual size.
@@GonzaHero I have been a framer since the 80s and have always done this. Cut all your blocks 14 3/8 because you gain a little. I still mark my layout and leave out blocks on any special bay, but as long as you pay attention that is the way to do it. I do it like this framing walls, stacking roofs etc. Really saves time stacking roofs. I see so many people have a guy on the ground and 1 on the top plates nailing blocks. No need for 2 people to do it.
@@vacavapes5500 there’s no doubt you do that well. With your experience it’s unlikely you’re making other marginal errors that’ll add up and reveal themselves as you cut blocking as it would for someone who is doing a DIY
Thank you for the very detailed explanation on little details! I would love to see a planning video on deck replacemnt modification or building from scratch. That planning stage🥰
Thank you Sir! I was just talking with my wife about not trusting the deck at her parents house and what that will eventually entail. I have now saved this video and subscribed. Also, PNW born and raised!
Thank you for this incredible video! It's evident how much effort and care you put into making it. The visuals are stunning, and the content is both informative and entertaining. I'm a big fan of your work!
...love that you’re talking about cut ends and preservation but what’s going to happen to the lumber you notched as it is still wet as the comparison is dry wood?
Best videos on RUclips, not only for helpful insight, but well spoken. I like that you've thoroughly reviewed your content, not a bunch of "uh" "um" "yea" etc. Cheers, doing my deck this week
I’m planning on a redwood deck remodel. The railing goes, but the 20 year old floor boards are old growth redwood so rather than toss them, I’m going to flip them over to use the unweathered side which I will sand and treat with boiled linseed oil.
@@BYOTools I’m debating refinish vs flip-refinish. There are ugly black stains around the corroded screw heads which I can’t sand or bleach out. Also, there are small splits due to weathering which go down about half the wood thickness. The board undersurfaces look pristine. If I flip, I would need to use your suggestion of cutting the screws with a reciprocating saw.
@@jag5316 Yikes! I’d definitely go with refinishing. If you try to flip them, there may be more damage and stains on the bottom than you realize. And if you have any cutouts for posts or railings, you probably can’t reuse them exactly. As soon as you have to replace one or two boards, the whole thing will look half-assed. Good luck with whichever route you go.
Interestingly enough, the boards with cutouts don’t need flipping. The deck gets sun unevenly due to the progression of the roofline shadow throughout the day
Great tips - I might see about renting a walk behind next time !! I switched to putting a plywood deck with torch on on top of my decks and then pt 2x4 sleepers on flat. Torch on is good for at least 30 years, the under deck area is dry and great for storage. No worries about 12 oc since have the plywood.
use nails on hurricane ties and joist hangers (is also code where required); nails allow for lateral movement due to settling & expansion/contraction; screws aren't, they'll just snap
Degree in Building Construction here Class A contractor and many years as a Home Inspector. Exterior doors should have rot proof jambs and sill flashing such as Jam-Sil-Guard trays. The deck should be a step down to help keeping snow from blocking doors. The framing should be flat but should slope down away from the house maybe an inch in eight feet to help the water drool away. Many excellent thoughts in your video.
I love how some can throw around how qualified they are to be an expert but never include state issued license numbers. Translation: Barry may or may not be an expert.
No!!! never in my life have I ever notice anyone build a deck off level LOL and if they did, we laughed who you joking? Thats why we have a space between boards to get rid of water also have you ever stood one a level deck a half hour later and wonder why it was dry? well the sun and wind do their job 🙂
Just saw two houses go up in my neighborhood that you could see how much they sloped from the street. Small decks too. The houses sold for over 600k when the average house sold for 100-200k here 10 years ago.
I just built a deck myself, you give great advice. One thing I notice is you use the DEWALT framing nailer, I hated mine, it jammed so easily so I got the Ryobi framing nailer and it’s a game changer
Pro tip: if your town/municipality allows, ditch the concrete footings and go with helical piles. They can hold 2x the load, installed in about an hour and you never have to pick up a post hole digger or mix concrete AGAIN! (Cost Is $200 per where I am)
I def would like to use it but we have rock and they require a special machine to drive them into the ground. That machine is not cheap to rent because you need someone trained to use it. Concrete is just much easier for doing your own projects.
These are great tips. I'm waiting for permit approval to build my first deck (it's actually my first big project of any kind). Needless to say I'm feeling a little nervous, so I'm learning as much as I can while I'm waiting.
Eeek! Pet peeve of mine, but maybe it's a regional pronunciation. Also was bugged by "my last and final;" if it's last, it's final. The guy sure can build a deck, though, and the advice is superb.
Flashing tape is never used by the spec house builders where I live in SC. Throw it up and get the check is the business plan. The decks are full of thoughtless water collection pockets, loose railings, and little regard for longevity and rot protection. I look at new houses' decks, and I swear I could easily kick them to pieces. If you want a deck done right, do some reading, and do it yourself.
Great video and tips. I'm currently remodeling the top surface of my deck and found these tips useful! Do you have a video for replacing PT deckboard instead of composite?
Another great video! Many thanks for the tips and for sharing! Can I put in request, for if/when/want to do... please. Retaining walls from old train track beams. Hopefully that makes sense! Thanks again for sharing matey! Very happy to see that your biz is going great!! All the best to you and your family, plus dog! mike from barcelona
Years ago I arrived at my job site to find my dumpster full. I began throwing material onto the sidewalk that did not belong in my dumpster. A neighbor came running over demanding to know who I was and what I was doing. I informed him that I was the contractor who ordered this dumpster and was removing someone's garbage from my dumpster. He said the homeowner I worked for told him and the neighbors they could use the dumpster.
On the wood dimension difference a lot can be due to shrinkage between new and old wood or wet vs dry wood. Ive built a few docks where it was easier to float joices to get them where they needed to go, and its amazing how much the wood will expand from just a short 10 to 30 minutes in the water especially for newer wood. Vs old well dried lumber.
Thanks for your video. I am also from the Pacific Northwest and have a question on post & beam material selection. Your thought on glulam vs natural wood? Do you need pressure treated for any materiaL?
How do you feel about using rubber type flashing tape instead of aluminum drip cap or Z flashing over the ledger? Seems like the big box stores are not selling the appropriate aluminum or steel, drip caps for deck leisures, everything is going towards the DIY tape.
The rubber flashing is not made for sun exposure. New windows to framing is one example because siding or brick will go over it. Get the aluminum, that's why they make the stuff.
Can you please share a link for the deck to house spacers mentioned? I have an application where spacers would be perfect and I’d like to use the same ones if possible.
The major thing to get started correctly is to drop the framing . Use a 2x4 tacked under the walkout door of the house. This will prevent water,ice and snow from being at the same height as the interior floor . This helps prevent moisture creeping under door sills. Flashing against the house will be alot more beneficial as it will now be standing upright and counter flashed with the door flashing.Can't remember how many repairs we have made where decks were level with door sills and the water damage it caused
Grinder burns the paint off the flashing will cause premature rust on ferrous metals snips will prevent that graphite can also cause more rapid oxidization of ferrous metals
You could use a water level instead of the Lazer level. The water can be coloured with food colouring. Much cheaper and more versatile. All you need is a length of clear narrow diameter plastic tubing. No line of sight problems or having to transfer levels. Keep it simple.
Great video, the only tip I disagree with is planning an entire joist. I think it's best to grade the lumber and pitch the support beam to match the graded lumber instead of installing it level. anything slightly out should be called "too low", and gets shimmed shim with a HDG washer or something strong.
My “professionally” built house had the ledger screwed through the siding. (A no-no the inspectors missed) The flashing they did use was aluminum (A no-no the inspectors missed) which was incompatible with the pressure treated lumber chemicals which dissolved the flashing. Water damage took out the perimeter framing, floor decking, bottom plate, several studs, patio door, siding, and more. The railing and stairs were also mounted through the siding. 😢
that's why one of my first purchases when I went into business was a dump trailer, so I can fill up multiple jobs and only go to the dump once a month and push a button.
I'm getting ready to replace pressure treated decking with PVC. Would it make sense to paint or stain the framing members as an extra moisture repellent? They're 20 years old but in good condition. I'm just thinking in terms of lasting as long as the new decking.
get a trailer and make some other projects out of the reclamed wood or you can post them for free somewhere. that wood still can be used for planters, fence, decore, pathway, and so much more.
Let me see if I got this right. You want someone else to buy thousands of dollars worth of equipment aka a trailer. Take extra time to separate the "good" wood from the garbage wood. Then store it at their house for an undetermined time , only to then "give" it away for free. Not including the constant waiting around for strangers to come to their house & "kick the tires" & decide if they actually want the free wood... Did I get that right..???
@@garycasper2929 sorry didn't mean to get your panties in a bunch. its your call to do with your stuff or stuff you are going to throw out. reclaimed wood worth good money right now its in fashion right now.
Just create some shadow. Not always easy, but here in Greece (only a slightly sunny place 😂) I can see the laser when I cast some shadow with a piece of cardboard for example. (Or have someone hold it)
As we all know, pressure treated lumber can shrink quite a bit once it dries out . When that happens your beam joints won't be flush on top anymore and this could potentially put a nice lump in your finished project. I would use wood that matched without any mod cuts that way it can all shrink together and stay flat. What are your thoughts?
Your deck will be much more solid if you support the joists below on larger joists( 2x10 under 2x8), add some bracing and use hangers for the upper joists. I wouldn’t trust face or toe baling joist to ledgers. My 12x 30 ft. deck with 2x6 decking can hold support a half ton pickup.
Im a little confused by the right angle method. I see that it translates to the string but how does that translate to the girder and joists that you place in the ground? Do you just line up the edges of the boards to the string? Thanks!
I am just about to fit my composite decking, ive got SC24 timbers for the sub frame and will treat every cut and the top and sides but not the bottom of the timbers with 2 coats of fast drying bitumen primer and then im going to top the timbers with 100mm DPC ,this will then sag each side like a cover and this will divert water away from the timbers ,ok it will take a few more hours but will last a long time
Your employee didn’t have his safety glasses on when you were demonstrating the flashing tape. I’ve been welding, precision grinding, and fabrication for 30 years building 500 gallon to 200,000 gallon stainless pressure vessels, and believe me, it’s not fun getting metal drilled out of your eyes. I got a piece of saw dust in my eye last year when building my shed. I was wearing high quality, snug fitting safety glasses. Windy day. I started wearing goggles over safety glasses when ripping wood. Don’t mean to nitpick, but I just hate to see someone get an injury. I’m just big on safety. I’ve seen people get seriously injured in my career. Great video and thanks for the deck building tips.
Im just re building deck that previous owners build on top of other smaller deck,i was thinking to put roofing membrane on top of tne below deck ,just so the water wont continue damage .Any thoughts on that?
So, someone replied to my post. My personal opinion. You don’t need a survey done for a deck, at least in my part of the Midwest. The only codes would be 1/4” ledger locks every 16” OC along with footing depth of minimum of 42”. Thats it outside of your standard framing technique.
The author does like to from scratch, ruclips.net/user/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
I've used that rubber/ashphalt tape (whatever it's made of) when I replaced the rotted planks on my deck. Luckily the structure was still good, so I used that "tape". It tacky to the touch, but no so much when you apply it to lumber. It'll stick initially, but can delaminate easily. Applying on a hot or sunny day will help, on a dry surface. Buy an extra roll...or two. You'll be surprised how quickly you use it up. A rubber roller was recommended to apply the "tape". I bought it, but lightly hammering the tape down will work, or using your hand. Wear gloves. The tar (whatever it is) will stick to your hands, and is hard to clean off.
Re, adding preservative to PT lumber: your lumber in the PCW does not accept the solution like it does southern pine in much of the country. This is specifically called out in the warranty information and pressure-treated wood. If the species are not called out, it is refractory vs non-refractory wood species. Your stuff DOES need solution on cut ends. Southern pine does NOT. Yes, I’ve read the warranty for the brands that supply Home Depot and Lowe’s.
You should use blocking to separate last two joist for your perimeter instead of nailing two joists together and placing that seam under the joint of the perimeter and the field. Keep your first joist for your field away from the seam and the water won’t get stuck on the joist. This is not as important on a composite deck as a wood deck but still good practice.
Interested to know if composite is really worth it. Ordered timber tech samples and I wasn't that impressed but I'm also no professional. If you went the wood route, what would be your mid budget recommendation
In my opinion it is worth it. Looks better and lasts longer. I haven't used timber tech but only trex so far. Loved it. And my first one i did a picture frame and aluminum railing with built in light too! turned out beautiful.
I personally feel that its 100% worth it. Just the fact alone that all i have to do for maintenance is pressure wash it once a year it truly amazing. If you went the wood rout it depends on your budget. In my area you will see cedar or IPE. IPE will definitely be more expensive though. Thanks for watching and make sure you check out part 2 :)
Why did you create a water trap on your picture frame? Why not have an aur gap between the joists that holds the edge of the picture frame bostd and the joist that supports the end of the decking boards?
Yeah, but the dump trailers available now helps with the demo, supplies & equipment. Roll off or dumpsters work for total house demo or other large (multi dump) jobs.
If there's no ledger board anchored to the house ask yourself would you feel safe if 10-15 people were standing on the deck and how much racking there would be. The fact you're saying you want it 4'-0" off the ground puts the centre of gravity very high and imo unsafe to use only blocks. You can't go wrong with a ledger anchored onto the house and a solid beam on concrete piers drilled under the frostline. Adding some racking support for the 4' x 4s because of their height would be a good idea.
Lower the slide on the nail packs slowly, rather than letting it snap in place. Snapping compresses the plastic between the nails, which can cause jams.
Use 3” strips of 30lb felt on each joist. It actually wicks water out from under the decking as well as protecting the top of the joist. Plastic is always the wrong product for construction. 😊
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Another tip: Put the auger bit on the ground before you start it turning. You can see in the vid how much it wobbles around before it touches the ground. If you want any sort of accuracy, you need to touch down first.
Also, as they go deeper into the ground, the angle changes. Have an assistant watching from side-on, and they'll tell you when you need to reposition the machine so that you're still drilling vertically.
My problem with renting a dumpster was people in the neighborhood throw their crap into it during the rental time. I will show up and there's a nasty couch or mattress in it. Bags of trash, TVs ... you name it. Then I was stuck with the extra costs.
I now make a pile of debris and then rent the dumpster for one day. Drop off in the morning, they pick it up 6 hours later. It's gone before people can sneak their trash into it.
Ouch that sucks! Luckily for me I've never had to deal with that issue before in my area but good on you for figuring out a way to do it by just renting it for a day. Thanks for watching!
They have some you can lock.
Aww, isn't that your civic duty? You should consider that "GIVING BACK". HA!
Oops my bad. I was thinking of trash bins 🫨
As a former kitchen contractor my crew would COMPLETELY gut the existing kitchen in one day and my hauling subcontractor would do a late afternoon pickup and sweep. When the homeowner arrived it looked like nobody showed up for work. Boy were they surprised when they went inside!
I’ve seen a couple of your videos and they are pretty good. I’ve been in the trades for 35 years. Good content here, especially with composite decks. I have to make one suggestion. Do not use a surveyors tape to check for square on a larger deck. You need to buy a 100’ steel tape. A surveyor tape is plastic and will stretch/shrink due to the temperature. A steel tape will not stretch/shrink. Hope this helps.
I agree. Or actually have it surveyed. I’ve done that on really large Home builds and it is spot on.
A steel tape will stretch as it heats up in the sun keep them out of the sun
stretch is fine as long as you measure at near the same time. It is a relevant number. Like my step meter can be way off- does not matter. I try to best it each day.
Surveying technician here. We almost never use tapes to measure distances between monuments. Total stations and GPS systems are pretty well standard now. If we use a 300 or 100 ft vinyl tape it’s because we are looking for something and are trying to get close enough to use a metal detector. Only tape a surveyor should be using to take measurements of record is a steel tape.
The steel tape doesn’t stretch like a vinyl tape when pulled tight for a measurement, but it will get longer and shorter with temperature changes. However, it is constant and you can account for the dimension differential if properly motivated.
Measure within 5 minutes and there is no issue.
Yup! Blocking is definitely a must. Here’s a suggestion for you. Since your joists are on 16” centers, the spaces should all be the same. Cut all of your blocking before you start hanging your joists. Then install the blocking and joists at the same time. It will remove the necessity of measuring and cutting between each joist bay and keep your joists more parallel on the 16” centers.
I would recommend not doing that. Things don’t always line up perfectly and you may end up with a lot of waste that way.
The joists can move around quite a bit with blocking, you only need to measure the first and last one. The first measurement for all but the last, the las one for the actual size.
My deck was built 30 years ago. No blocking. Still in great shape.
@@GonzaHero I have been a framer since the 80s and have always done this. Cut all your blocks 14 3/8 because you gain a little. I still mark my layout and leave out blocks on any special bay, but as long as you pay attention that is the way to do it. I do it like this framing walls, stacking roofs etc. Really saves time stacking roofs. I see so many people have a guy on the ground and 1 on the top plates nailing blocks. No need for 2 people to do it.
@@vacavapes5500 there’s no doubt you do that well. With your experience it’s unlikely you’re making other marginal errors that’ll add up and reveal themselves as you cut blocking as it would for someone who is doing a DIY
Been decking 2 years and this really helped!
Thanks from the UK
Thank you for the very detailed explanation on little details! I would love to see a planning video on deck replacemnt modification or building from scratch. That planning stage🥰
Thank you Sir! I was just talking with my wife about not trusting the deck at her parents house and what that will eventually entail. I have now saved this video and subscribed. Also, PNW born and raised!
Thank you for this incredible video! It's evident how much effort and care you put into making it. The visuals are stunning, and the content is both informative and entertaining. I'm a big fan of your work!
...love that you’re talking about cut ends and preservation but what’s going to happen to the lumber you notched as it is still wet as the comparison is dry wood?
Best videos on RUclips, not only for helpful insight, but well spoken. I like that you've thoroughly reviewed your content, not a bunch of "uh" "um" "yea" etc. Cheers, doing my deck this week
I’ve built a few decks a while ago, and am about to start my first composite remodel. This video was invaluable. Thank you.
Amazing to hear! Thanks so much for watching.
I’m planning on a redwood deck remodel. The railing goes, but the 20 year old floor boards are old growth redwood so rather than toss them, I’m going to flip them over to use the unweathered side which I will sand and treat with boiled linseed oil.
Interesting idea, but why dont you just sand and resurface the existing side so you don't have to back out all of the screws? Thanks for watching Jag.
@@BYOTools I’m debating refinish vs flip-refinish. There are ugly black stains around the corroded screw heads which I can’t sand or bleach out. Also, there are small splits due to weathering which go down about half the wood thickness. The board undersurfaces look pristine. If I flip, I would need to use your suggestion of cutting the screws with a reciprocating saw.
@@jag5316
Yikes!
I’d definitely go with refinishing. If you try to flip them, there may be more damage and stains on the bottom than you realize. And if you have any cutouts for posts or railings, you probably can’t reuse them exactly.
As soon as you have to replace one or two boards, the whole thing will look half-assed.
Good luck with whichever route you go.
@@shawnbrennan7526 Thanks
Interestingly enough, the boards with cutouts don’t need flipping. The deck gets sun unevenly due to the progression of the roofline shadow throughout the day
Great tips - I might see about renting a walk behind next time !! I switched to putting a plywood deck with torch on on top of my decks and then pt 2x4 sleepers on flat. Torch on is good for at least 30 years, the under deck area is dry and great for storage. No worries about 12 oc since have the plywood.
use nails on hurricane ties and joist hangers (is also code where required); nails allow for lateral movement due to settling & expansion/contraction; screws aren't, they'll just snap
Those are Simpson Connector Screws. They are specifically engineered and rated to replace hanger nails.
3x4 x5 great tip they used to teach in school 😢
That was apefectly good deck 😮
Hi Gary...the 3x4x5 rule is still very much in use today.
Pythagorean Theorem
Degree in Building Construction here Class A contractor and many years as a Home Inspector. Exterior doors should have rot proof jambs and sill flashing such as Jam-Sil-Guard trays. The deck should be a step down to help keeping snow from blocking doors. The framing should be flat but should slope down away from the house maybe an inch in eight feet to help the water drool away. Many excellent thoughts in your video.
I love how some can throw around how qualified they are to be an expert but never include state issued license numbers. Translation: Barry may or may not be an expert.
No!!! never in my life have I ever notice anyone build a deck off level LOL and if they did, we laughed who you joking? Thats why we have a space between boards to get rid of water also have you ever stood one a level deck a half hour later and wonder why it was dry? well the sun and wind do their job 🙂
Just saw two houses go up in my neighborhood that you could see how much they sloped from the street. Small decks too. The houses sold for over 600k when the average house sold for 100-200k here 10 years ago.
I just built a deck myself, you give great advice. One thing I notice is you use the DEWALT framing nailer, I hated mine, it jammed so easily so I got the Ryobi framing nailer and it’s a game changer
Got a hammer and it never jammed.
I have the DEWALT and it worked flawlessly.
Went through several dewalt. Milwaukee has been way better since I switched.
Dewalt is garbage! The internals are literally identical to cheap black and decker.
Pro tip: if your town/municipality allows, ditch the concrete footings and go with helical piles. They can hold 2x the load, installed in about an hour and you never have to pick up a post hole digger or mix concrete AGAIN! (Cost Is $200 per where I am)
Yea but how do you drive them into hard soil or rock?
@@FlyingAceAV8B hard soil has never been an issue…..rock….you’re up the creek. Either way with rock, you will still run into the same issues.
Work poorly in soft soils. Soil conditions with this method matters.
I see helical piles for mobile home footings , the speed of installation is awesome!
I def would like to use it but we have rock and they require a special machine to drive them into the ground. That machine is not cheap to rent because you need someone trained to use it. Concrete is just much easier for doing your own projects.
These are great tips. I'm waiting for permit approval to build my first deck (it's actually my first big project of any kind). Needless to say I'm feeling a little nervous, so I'm learning as much as I can while I'm waiting.
Great video! I enjoyed how you say "heighth" too!
Eeek! Pet peeve of mine, but maybe it's a regional pronunciation. Also was bugged by "my last and final;" if it's last, it's final. The guy sure can build a deck, though, and the advice is superb.
!2" OC spacing for composite decking is required if you are installing it diagonally. It is also the minimum spacing required for a hot tub.
Excellent tips! You're making me want to rebuild my deck!
Flashing tape is never used by the spec house builders where I live in SC. Throw it up and get the check is the business plan. The decks are full of thoughtless water collection pockets, loose railings, and little regard for longevity and rot protection. I look at new houses' decks, and I swear I could easily kick them to pieces. If you want a deck done right, do some reading, and do it yourself.
WoW a real pro in motion!
You’ve earned my subscription. This vid was soooooo helpful
Great video and tips. I'm currently remodeling the top surface of my deck and found these tips useful! Do you have a video for replacing PT deckboard instead of composite?
Another great video! Many thanks for the tips and for sharing!
Can I put in request, for if/when/want to do... please.
Retaining walls from old train track beams.
Hopefully that makes sense!
Thanks again for sharing matey!
Very happy to see that your biz is going great!!
All the best to you and your family, plus dog!
mike from barcelona
Years ago I arrived at my job site to find my dumpster full. I began throwing material onto the sidewalk that did not belong in my dumpster. A neighbor came running over demanding to know who I was and what I was doing. I informed him that I was the contractor who ordered this dumpster and was removing someone's garbage from my dumpster. He said the homeowner I worked for told him and the neighbors they could use the dumpster.
Awesome! So what happened with all the additional garbage?
Did you bill the customer for an additional empty or what?
That figures!! Homeowners 😅
Instead of being an asshole, pissing off your patron and making the neighbourhood look ugly you could have just charged extra.
@@funnyguy101ize Yes this guy did not even ask/suggest it to the homeowner. Bad attitude.
Just use tin snips to cut flashing. I work on decks as well. Cool video
Thanks mucho for the great tips. Glad I watched before finishing up my deck.
On the center hole of those deck spacers you should fill them with caulking before you run the lag bolts through and into the house!
I and not sure about the decking tape on the joists. Will this not trap moisture and cause fungal rot? From very wet Ireland.
On the wood dimension difference a lot can be due to shrinkage between new and old wood or wet vs dry wood. Ive built a few docks where it was easier to float joices to get them where they needed to go, and its amazing how much the wood will expand from just a short 10 to 30 minutes in the water especially for newer wood. Vs old well dried lumber.
Always good to get so honest tips!
Very good tips
Thanks for your video. I am also from the Pacific Northwest and have a question on post & beam material selection. Your thought on glulam vs natural wood? Do you need pressure treated for any materiaL?
How do you feel about using rubber type flashing tape instead of aluminum drip cap or Z flashing over the ledger? Seems like the big box stores are not selling the appropriate aluminum or steel, drip caps for deck leisures, everything is going towards the DIY tape.
The rubber flashing is not made for sun exposure. New windows to framing is one example because siding or brick will go over it. Get the aluminum, that's why they make the stuff.
Can you please share a link for the deck to house spacers mentioned? I have an application where spacers would be perfect and I’d like to use the same ones if possible.
The major thing to get started correctly is to drop the framing . Use a 2x4 tacked under the walkout door of the house. This will prevent water,ice and snow from being at the same height as the interior floor . This helps prevent moisture creeping under door sills. Flashing against the house will be alot more beneficial as it will now be standing upright and counter flashed with the door flashing.Can't remember how many repairs we have made where decks were level with door sills and the water damage it caused
That's a great tip that I had not thought of. so then there's a small drop from the sliding glass door onto the deck I take it?
@@Stephenwc Yes ,about 3 and 1/2 inches
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Grinder burns the paint off the flashing will cause premature rust on ferrous metals snips will prevent that graphite can also cause more rapid
oxidization of ferrous metals
Thanks for this great video.
Do you have a tutorials video on using laser level in deck construction or in construction in general.?
What kind of mechanical pencils you recommend? that marks wood, metal and also, wet material? such as wet wood ?
You could use a water level instead of the Lazer level. The water can be coloured with food colouring. Much cheaper and more versatile. All you need is a length of clear narrow diameter plastic tubing. No line of sight problems or having to transfer levels. Keep it simple.
I am so glad I watched this video to the end
Awesome video, you deserve a million subscribers!
Great video, the only tip I disagree with is planning an entire joist. I think it's best to grade the lumber and pitch the support beam to match the graded lumber instead of installing it level. anything slightly out should be called "too low", and gets shimmed shim with a HDG washer or something strong.
Thanks for all the tips. Looks like the main focus was on a project in the Magnolia or Ballard area?
My “professionally” built house had the ledger screwed through the siding. (A no-no the inspectors missed) The flashing they did use was aluminum (A no-no the inspectors missed) which was incompatible with the pressure treated lumber chemicals which dissolved the flashing.
Water damage took out the perimeter framing, floor decking, bottom plate, several studs, patio door, siding, and more. The railing and stairs were also mounted through the siding. 😢
that's why one of my first purchases when I went into business was a dump trailer, so I can fill up multiple jobs and only go to the dump once a month and push a button.
I love your videos! They are so informative! Thank you!!!
When you are re-doing a deck from rotted wood to composite, do you start at the house? Or start at the end of the deck?
I'm getting ready to replace pressure treated decking with PVC. Would it make sense to paint or stain the framing members as an extra moisture repellent? They're 20 years old but in good condition. I'm just thinking in terms of lasting as long as the new decking.
get a trailer and make some other projects out of the reclamed wood or you can post them for free somewhere. that wood still can be used for planters, fence, decore, pathway, and so much more.
Let me see if I got this right. You want someone else to buy thousands of dollars worth of equipment aka a trailer. Take extra time to separate the "good" wood from the garbage wood. Then store it at their house for an undetermined time , only to then "give" it away for free. Not including the constant waiting around for strangers to come to their house & "kick the tires" & decide if they actually want the free wood... Did I get that right..???
@@garycasper2929 sorry didn't mean to get your panties in a bunch. its your call to do with your stuff or stuff you are going to throw out. reclaimed wood worth good money right now its in fashion right now.
@@Marwil23
People will come and take that stuff quick .
@@Marwil23
Saves dump fee and other expenses
What brand/model laser level do you use? Mine does not work outdoors because the sun hides the beam. Thanks for all the good information you share.
Just create some shadow. Not always easy, but here in Greece (only a slightly sunny place 😂) I can see the laser when I cast some shadow with a piece of cardboard for example. (Or have someone hold it)
great video! super well done!
As we all know, pressure treated lumber can shrink quite a bit once it dries out . When that happens your beam joints won't be flush on top anymore and this could potentially put a nice lump in your finished project. I would use wood that matched without any mod cuts that way it can all shrink together and stay flat. What are your thoughts?
Laser levels are awesome
Your deck will be much more solid if you support the joists below on larger joists( 2x10 under 2x8), add some bracing and use hangers for the upper joists. I wouldn’t trust face or toe baling joist to ledgers. My 12x 30 ft. deck with 2x6 decking can hold support a half ton pickup.
What do you put on the ground to avoid weeds from growing under a deck on a slope?
Awesome build and design. Only con is I wouldve tried to salvage as much material as I could for another build
Another great video.... THANKS!!!
Im a little confused by the right angle method. I see that it translates to the string but how does that translate to the girder and joists that you place in the ground? Do you just line up the edges of the boards to the string? Thanks!
I am just about to fit my composite decking, ive got SC24 timbers for the sub frame and will treat every cut and the top and sides but not the bottom of the timbers with 2 coats of fast drying bitumen primer and then im going to top the timbers with 100mm DPC ,this will then sag each side like a cover and this will divert water away from the timbers ,ok it will take a few more hours but will last a long time
You forgot "Mark your crowns". You want any and all crowns up on your joists.
Our pressure treated Joists necessary if it they are high off the ground?
What tip do you have for someone who over planed a joist or two & created a low spot? Can it be shimmed?
Your employee didn’t have his safety glasses on when you were demonstrating the flashing tape. I’ve been welding, precision grinding, and fabrication for 30 years building 500 gallon to 200,000 gallon stainless pressure vessels, and believe me, it’s not fun getting metal drilled out of your eyes. I got a piece of saw dust in my eye last year when building my shed. I was wearing high quality, snug fitting safety glasses. Windy day. I started wearing goggles over safety glasses when ripping wood. Don’t mean to nitpick, but I just hate to see someone get an injury. I’m just big on safety. I’ve seen people get seriously injured in my career. Great video and thanks for the deck building tips.
With your footings, do you just put a concrete base then back fill with soil
What happens when you new 4x6 shrinks down that 3/8" that the old 1 did??
The tailgate warranty?
Great info❗️
Im just re building deck that previous owners build on top of other smaller deck,i was thinking to put roofing membrane on top of tne below deck ,just so the water wont continue damage .Any thoughts on that?
What angle framing nailer are you using? 21 degree in the PNW?
So, someone replied to my post. My personal opinion. You don’t need a survey done for a deck, at least in my part of the Midwest. The only codes would be 1/4” ledger locks every 16” OC along with footing depth of minimum of 42”. Thats it outside of your standard framing technique.
Thanks for sharing.
How does flashing tape work if you put screws through it?
97%, very well
Like roofing butyl does. The rubbery tape seals up around the fastener.
I need you to be in Maine. I so need some experience with me to extend my back deck.
The author does like to from scratch, ruclips.net/user/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
Do you have an affiliate link for the deck spacers?
Good instruction. Thanks.
Great tips. Upvoted.
If I may offer a minor English tip: no such word as heighth. It's just height.
I've used that rubber/ashphalt tape (whatever it's made of) when I replaced the rotted planks on my deck. Luckily the structure was still good, so I used that "tape". It tacky to the touch, but no so much when you apply it to lumber. It'll stick initially, but can delaminate easily. Applying on a hot or sunny day will help, on a dry surface. Buy an extra roll...or two. You'll be surprised how quickly you use it up. A rubber roller was recommended to apply the "tape". I bought it, but lightly hammering the tape down will work, or using your hand. Wear gloves. The tar (whatever it is) will stick to your hands, and is hard to clean off.
Re, adding preservative to PT lumber: your lumber in the PCW does not accept the solution like it does southern pine in much of the country. This is specifically called out in the warranty information and pressure-treated wood. If the species are not called out, it is refractory vs non-refractory wood species.
Your stuff DOES need solution on cut ends. Southern pine does NOT. Yes, I’ve read the warranty for the brands that supply Home Depot and Lowe’s.
You should use blocking to separate last two joist for your perimeter instead of nailing two joists together and placing that seam under the joint of the perimeter and the field. Keep your first joist for your field away from the seam and the water won’t get stuck on the joist. This is not as important on a composite deck as a wood deck but still good practice.
Have you ever used steel z-gerts for your joists
Then you can screew from the bottom
Was that ledger board screwed into the house with the siding still attached?
Interested to know if composite is really worth it. Ordered timber tech samples and I wasn't that impressed but I'm also no professional. If you went the wood route, what would be your mid budget recommendation
In my opinion it is worth it. Looks better and lasts longer. I haven't used timber tech but only trex so far. Loved it. And my first one i did a picture frame and aluminum railing with built in light too! turned out beautiful.
I personally feel that its 100% worth it. Just the fact alone that all i have to do for maintenance is pressure wash it once a year it truly amazing. If you went the wood rout it depends on your budget. In my area you will see cedar or IPE. IPE will definitely be more expensive though. Thanks for watching and make sure you check out part 2 :)
Think of composite decking every time you have to repaint your wooden one, then after a few years your wish you went to the darkside
I stripped, sanded, washed, refinished my PT deck every year for 8 years and it still rotted. Go with composite.
Why did you create a water trap on your picture frame? Why not have an aur gap between the joists that holds the edge of the picture frame bostd and the joist that supports the end of the decking boards?
I love your work and advice but the fact that you didn't call it a Sawzall got on my nerves. 😂 you're a true carpenter, love the content.
Yeah, but the dump trailers available now helps with the demo, supplies & equipment. Roll off or dumpsters work for total house demo or other large (multi dump) jobs.
I love the idea
Also a builder, I enjoyed your video.
When are you putting the rails on this deck?
Since my Lazer level can shoot right angles, I would use that to square the frame.
Can an 8’x10’ free standing deck be installed on deck blocks 4’ off the ground?
Would it be stable?
Thanks
B
If there's no ledger board anchored to the house ask yourself would you feel safe if 10-15 people were standing on the deck and how much racking there would be. The fact you're saying you want it 4'-0" off the ground puts the centre of gravity very high and imo unsafe to use only blocks. You can't go wrong with a ledger anchored onto the house and a solid beam on concrete piers drilled under the frostline. Adding some racking support for the 4' x 4s because of their height would be a good idea.
I'm curious how you manage to fire nails through the dewalt nailer without jamming.
Lower the slide on the nail packs slowly, rather than letting it snap in place. Snapping compresses the plastic between the nails, which can cause jams.
Thanks!
Use 3” strips of 30lb felt on each joist. It actually wicks water out from under the decking as well as protecting the top of the joist. Plastic is always the wrong product for construction. 😊
What is “heighth”?
Use butyl joist tape, not flashing tape.