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As a custom home builder (still working) since 1973, I've gotta say I enjoyed the vid. Couple suggestions from over half a century of building: Use a round over bit on your but ends of the deck boards. This eliminates the chipped, sharp edge and gives a more professional look. And always use a straight edge guide when cutting off the ends of the decking boards. Takes an extra 60 seconds but is well worth it. On any upright posts, always, always use a 45 degree chamfer bit to shape all four edges. This again gives a more professional look and eliminates splinters when those little hands or drunken stumbling grab the post to help the person retain an upright position. I do the 45 chamfer with the post in place, usually allowing the base of the router to determine the height off the bottom and the top for the cut. When I have those overly tight posts, I simply use a power hand planer to shave down the post base to make a proper fit. Using a sledge hammer to force fit a swollen piece of lumber is pretty barbaric and usually ends up deforming the top of the post. Just sayin...
@JQUICK21um.. he’s been in this trade alone for 50 years (let alone any other jobs). So he’s about 70 years old... …Maybe you can fly out to meet him and help film, edit and post it?
Great instructions, great sense of humour. As a woman trying to learn this stuff with no one to ask, these videos are fabulous. It all the stuff they don’t explain in the “how to” books and instructions.
Doing it with family, normally, is a friggin nightmare. Absolutely not. If you have a rare, non-DYSFUNCTIONAL family (meaning a family that IS functional and capable) then you go right ahead and enjoy it because you are blessed with good time in your life with your family.
iv'e been a carpenter for 50 years and overbuild everything this deck is bomb proof you have outdone me and that's really hard to do . Kudos to you you're funny and very experienced save materials and cut costs by not overbuying materials and do a expert quality . For those DY ers following Adam you really cant go wrong .Thank you I laughed at your PRO Tips
Wow! I'm 60 and my back hurts just watching this! Great job! Pay no attention to the haters. Hope you are enjoying a beer on that deck right now talking to your sister!
Yeah, good job! I have to make my family have dinner together. Maybe they'd RATHER build a deck? Imma schedule it. I need one any way. They shoulda came to dinner. @@HAXMAN
Like this channel a lot. He relates to the laymen while still using pro standards. He cuts the crap without cutting corners. It really feels like you are hanging out at a friends house. That cool friend who doesnt overwhelm you who always teaches you something while being easy going. His good nature and good humor season the project perfectly and make the experience feel personal. It feels like the wife is recording on her cell phone but even if thats the case the editing is quite good . Witty subtle sound effects, proper music placement, pace of the project all layed together seamlessly. I often feel dizzy after watching youtube videos. They are generally under or over produced and it can be exausting to be honest. But Ive been watching for about 3 hours and I feel pretty good! So just thought a I would give my compliments. Take care everyone. ❤❤❤❤❤ Great Channel!
Coming from a retired deck/fence guy... the only step I didn't hear you mention (which would really only be helpful to beginners), is to make sure the crown of the joist are facing up.
Dock builder here. When you lay the deck boards down you want the, what you call the "bark side" which is called the crown side, you want that side up. If you've ever looked at old decks, you'll notice the most damaged boards are the ones that have the crown side down. If you look at the end of the board you will see this is because when you lay it crown down it creates a sort of bowl for the board to hold water longer, whereas with the crown up it allows the water to escape faster and keeps the board drier.
Yeah, every board with a smile on the end grain has a bowl on my decks. I told the contractor he should have made sure they were crown up so it would warp in a arch to shed water, but he didn't listen. Some say you then risk a layer splitting away, but I've only seen that twice in my life and it's still way better than having a bowl holding 1/8" of water.
When I see wood decks I see thousands and thousands of dollars wasted and a headache for someone to have to repair it. I know someone who sold their house after about 15 years because they found out the 2 story massive deck they had was going to cost then upwards of 100k dollars to replace in a few years. Wood decks are some the the worst decisions a homeowner can waste money on. That house and its new owners do not have a deck anymore. The cost exceeded what they were willing to do. Not in the same neighborhood, yet nearby there is a similar house that have a concrete deck that was built around the same time that is still in great condition. Unlike the wood deck which was attached to the house this concrete deck is free standing and sits a couple of inches away from the house. That house has some really nice siding unlike the wood deck house that for many years had a patch job where they removed the deck. The patio door was replaced with a large bay window like some of the other homes which do not have decks. Most of these homes all sit hill side... The kicker is that concrete deck has its own roof now because it is free standing. It sits much higher than the existing roof which still allows natural sunligh in and has a large number of those roll down shades and full of lighting above for night time use. I have not seen it in years yet last I know it is fully framed in with huge glass panes like those commercial windows and screens. I think its mostly like a greenhouse now.
My ground is boggy/silty so a floating deck is kind of ideal...thanks for putting this up and thanks to the algorithm for showing it to me - you must be doing something right. EDIT: thanks for the tip on landscape fabric - since anything heavy sinks over time in my yard, if I do trenches, then lay the fabric in it, it should hold the shape enough for the paver base to settle into the shapes, kind of like a mold. If I had a quality soil in my yard I would leave it out, as you direct, but I don't, so I need to sort of mold or wrap the paver base to make it not sink directly in - the large piece of fabric will distribute the stresses and keep it "floating" kind of literally in my yard. :-) Thanks again!
YOU ARE GREAT !!! I am a 66 year old disabled woman. My husband and I have built ALL our garden boxes and pergolas and any yard accessories. We LOVE your EASE at building.....Thank you.
I have watched a dozen deck build videos and yours was absolutely the most entertaining as well as the best how to building instructions. I now think this 68 yr old women can construct a small deck, with confidence. Thank you. P.S. I loved seeing all your family help in getting it done.
Haxman, you are the best brother! Mine lives overseas and my other siblings are on the opposite coast. Someone smart once said “a family that builds a deck together stays together!” They must’ve had you in mind! Well done!💞
I got a metal detector to help me find a buried sprinkler valve box (it worked!), but it took me awhile because of all the Budweiser cans I found all over the yard. Digging elsewhere to put in a swingset, we found probably 100' of PVC, just bunches of pipe buried for no reason. I ended up using it in my garden beds for vine plants to climb. We've found glass beer bottles, bricks, rebar, concrete, shingles, and all sorts of stuff all over the property. House was built in 1994. Can't wait to find what is in the walls whenever we do some renovations.
MY house was built1979. every time it rains I get roofing nails, broken glass, tile cut offs from the foyer floor, whole bunch of random stuff. Have yet to find the construction trash pile but I assume its near the creek....
Here is my pro-tip. When decking with pressure-treated. only install deck boards with the minimum screws necessary to hold in place. Once all boards are down, run chalk-lines to align the rest of the screws to get perfect straight screw lines.
Everything was square and he was using a square to line the screws up, I imagine they were pretty straight. The chalk line is good too as a means to the same, as opposed to winging it but what he did works too.
I used that flashing tape on half of my deck (when I built an addition to it) the half without the tape has screws pulling out of it after about six years. The flashing tape part of the deck is solid.
@@jimw6991 no idea, I've never used it before and the friend who helped me replace my boards just picked up a few rolls and put them in the cart while we were getting aupplies. I can tell you this: we got it at Home Depot and it was in the tape aisle, not building materials, it's one of the aisles in the paint section. It's black in color about 2½ wide, stretches like rubber when you you pull it and it's made for the purpose of keeping the joists dry. I'm pretty sure you could ask someone in paints (that's where all of the tape products are located) just the way I described it and they'll know what you're talking about. If you can't find it, let me know I'll stop in and get you the name. It's one of the top ten smartest things I've ever done.
As I'm watching this, it doesn't even matter to me how the deck was made. I loved seeing you play with your family. Showing you take time out to have fun the kids is awesome! Thank you for sharing.
What you're saying about spacing deck boards applies to pretty much any wood you would use for decks or fences nowadays, and has been for some time. I bought a bunch of redwood for fencing back in the early 2000s and it was really wet and sappy. I left it in the van I used to haul it overnight. The next morning all the windows were fogged over on the inside and some sap had actually seeped out onto the back seat. But the interior of the van smelled AWESOME and was like a redwood forest for a couple of weeks. I put up those redwood fence boards with no gaps and as they gradually dried, the gaps appeared, and looked fine. Almost all deck/fence boards you can buy nowadays are so green they will behave like this.
Pro-tip: Be sure to go dig a hole someplace and bury all your construction trash so when you are gardening later you can find hunks of concrete, blocks, and random metal scraps.
If I'd not already subscribed that protipabout the Coke cans etc. woulda earned it. Heard about a subdivision where the grading contractor had connection with demoliton of a bowling alley. People found bowling balls buried in their backyards.
@@m_cabral You got bricks? I found 8 motorcycle engines at one of my properties and about a dozen carbies. I can't imagine who did it because it was a vacant block when my family bought it in the 1950's!
I am 3rd generation union construction worker, 20 years ago a local lumberyard had a going out of business sale. So my father, sister, and I got a great deal on pressure treated deck wood. When we put the top flooring deck down “back in the day rule of thumb to put a nickel joint” we decided to put it tightly against each other to allow for dry shrinkage gap. Sis and dad held off staining to allowed chemicals to dry out. I talk to a lot of union painters telling me to stain it right away??? Hell they know more about it then I do so I stain it. Oddly 20 years later I hardly had any shrinkage compared to my father & sis deck🤷
53-year-old here from Europe ... and will start next spring a new career as a carpenter/builder by going back to trade school ... IN THE US !!!! It's a dream come true !!!
@@HAXMAN Thanks. After years in the army and the other half of my career as an overseas contracter I still am excited like I was 15 years old ... looking so much forward to this life change and being able to finally craft something usable and sustainable with my own hands. You earned another subscriber today !
Im 60, and I grew doing carpentry as well as most other construction trades including heavy equipment operator. Worked it all of my life and I still enjoy the satisfaction of completing a project. I love the smell of new concrete, sawdust, fresh turned dirt, and diesel fumes! @Vurt.451
I like what you did, the finished product looks nice. Couple of things I noted: First, you used joist hangers to hang the rim joists FROM the end of the deck joists. Joist hangers are designed to support weight on the under fold, with the screws only locking the joist in place so it doesn't move. With no TUFFBlocks under the rim joists, the only thing supporting the weight of the rim joists are the screws, any weight on the edges is pulling the rim down from the open end of the hanger, which defeats the purpose. Next time, flip the rim joist - or install the hangers upside down - so the joist hanger hangs/rests on the end of the deck joists to support the weight of the rim joists, and better support the weight of anyone stepping up/standing on the edges of the deck. Second, at the 17:19 mark, you talk about the "bottom of a smile" on the boards, and that people are divided on which way to mount the deck board. You can look for the prettier side if you want, but the reason for the rule of thumb is a board's tendency to "cup" or "crown," based on which way you mount the board. As wood dries, the rings on the board naturally want to "straighten out," which pulls on the edges of the board in the direction that "straight" would be if the board could actually open up and straighten the rings. This is why they say to mount deck boards "smiling," not "frowning." As the deck boards dry and try to straighten up, the board will crown (bow up) in the middle slightly. This is what you want, so that water can run off the boards easily, rather than pool in the board, which is what happens if it's installed upside down and begins to "cup" as it dries. Cupped boards will rot faster with pooling water than crowned boards that shed the water. This is why, to most professional recommendations, the direction you mount the boards matters a great deal. It's not really, truly a debate in any way. That said, I have no problem with using whichever side is prettier to look at, as long as it's understood that cupped boards will have to be replaced a lot sooner than crowned boards. If the person doesn't mind that, then it's dealer's choice. I just wanted to point out that there's actually some science behind how installation is recommended, it's not just personal preference. A contractor primary concern is protecting his/her work. He/she doesn't want to have to come out and replace any decking prematurely, so they install to the scientific recommendations of the wood's structure. Your work came out nice, I really like the fire pit, I've used a similar one before, they're great. The Adirondack chairs are nice, and so are the Edison bulbs. All in all, a nice simple deck, that DEFINITELY saved quite a bit of money. 👍👍
Obviously working on a similar project and sneaking by for some tips....also the 'throwing daughter in the air' technique....maybe learnt something there.....
Seeing as how joist hangers and the fasteners that are required to attach them are indeed expensive I strongly feel the need to mention the proper use of them. The joist hanger is attached to the member that is holding all the weight, thus allowing it to carry the weight of the inner joists. On this particular build you have them upside down in my opinion. (Every builder laughing now at how ridiculous that sounds because they are clearly right side up as intended) The problem with this particular build is that all your inner joists are supported on the ground already and your rim joist is just hanging there. As well as your outside rim board that runs parallel with your inner supported joists. If you are going to support all your inner joists I would suggest putting your hangers upside down thus letting the joists support your rim board. That would then allow the transfer of weight from your inner joists (supported) to the capping rim board, which you could then use a hanger as intended to carry the weight of your outer unsupported joists.
Deck looks really solid and well built. I would suggest using a vapor/moisture barrier on the ground after site work is done. You gonna have weeds growing up between the deck boards once they shrink up a bit
Crowns are always best to put upward, since they tend to straighten over time under the force of gravity. Bark side tends to be the high point of the crown. This applies to the boards edge crowns also. This helps to shed off rainwater and helps prevent puddling, which soaks into the boards, causing damage and dangerous patches of ice.
I have been in construction since 1961 when my first job, at 10 yrs of age, was to straighten the rusty, bent nails my depression-era dad saved. In 1971, I struck out on my own as a self-employed carpenter and later licensed contractor. I'm too old to swing a hammer or squeeze the nail gun trigger all day, but I do all of my company bids. So here's one for you: If there is a next time, attach the joist hanger to the rim board on one side only and let the other side run wild. As you drop in the joist, attach it to the hanger (on the same side you already screwed down) with a couple of screws and then tighten up the other leg of the hanger against the joist and screw away. Otherwise, sometimes the joist binds up and won't drop into the hanger without a fight.
In some States where they have codes and even different codes per County, for decks, attached or not, has to be treated material due to the distance from the ground to the bottom of your joists. Yeah, even me being a retired Building Contractor, I hail anyone who wants to save money on these projects but I would always check to find out about the codes first. For example, I'm an Oregonian and here in my county, wind and rain are considered and the deck has to be 30 inches off the ground to NOT BE treated material.
Very good video with some great ideas. Here are some other things to consider: Tip #1: If you have trees near the deck that drop "helicopter seeds" (i.e. Maple, Poplar and others) PT boards placed with no spacing will shrink and leave the perfect gap for such seeds to be trapped in the gaps... very annoying. A 1/8" initial gap will result in just enough space after the boards shrink for seeds to fall through. Gaps after drying will be acceptable. Tip #2: 1" 'above ground' PT decking from box stores is garbage that will only last around 6-8 years depending on climate. Go to your local traditional builder's supply and check into a special order of GROUND CONTACT pressure treated 2 x 6 lumber to use for decking. This route may be less expensive than composite decking and will last 20+ years. Tip #3: The proper way to secure cable using cable clamps is to place all saddles against the loaded side of the cable, never the U-bolt against the load. Not a big issue here with light loading, but the U-bolt on a cable clamp greatly stresses the wire and reduces its strength while the saddle spreads the stress and preserves its strength.
@@mkeyx82 the bar that the ends of the U go through. "* Never saddle a dead horse" ie dont put the clamp bar of a cable clamp on the tag end, put it on the long load side
Love you showing how laziness is a virtue. Premounting the joist hangers, no use of landscaping fabric, etc is a huge time saver so you can concentrate on what really matters.
Deck looks great. In the future you should use stainless nails for the gun and stainless screws. It’s worth the added cost. Those coated screws, do and will rust over time in the pressure treated boards.
I'm a 75 year old woman; who does NO construction, and even I enjoyed watching this video. Great to be informed of cheaper ways to build and see how some things have changed over the years.
The grain of the plank gives ain indication of how the board will curve when drying, you want it to curve down into the deck, and not curve up into a cupping action
I found you to be hilarious and informative. I bought some of the TuffBlocks today after watching your video. I put them in my Lowes basket of materials to buy for my shed foundation. They look lighter and easier to handle than concrete blocks. Watching your video was right on time about the TuffBlock and no weed barrier. I really appreciated the rooster sounds. Have a great day and I thoroughly enjoyed your video. Great job and you did save your sister a bunch of money, and yes, you are worlds greatest brother😊👍
a tip from a craft show vendor- use 5 gallon buckets of water with ratchet straps to hold down pop up canopys take the strap up to the upper cross brace and wrap around the leg 10 times better than a drive in stake!!!!! i use screws almost completely anymore
very nice video. DIY video, we amateurs just don't have all the tools professionals have, so I really appreciate your videos as it shows what we "normal" people can and will do...
Good job. Food for thought: Those cordless tools are multi-speed, i.e. you control the speed with your trigger finger to control the screw right? So why do you all feel the need to continually trigger the tool to sink the screw? All you are achieving is depleting the power in the battery at a greater rate, not to mention shortening the life of said battery. This is the sole reason I do not loan my tools to other tradesmen. If anyone presents the argument that it's quicker I would say of all the sites I have been on over the last 40 years no one was waiting for me, quite the opposite.
Fruit gums, he was driving me crazy with that pumping action. They do that on This Old House also. I have variable speed Bosch tools. They start out at 0 to full RPM in a smooth increase in speed. Other tools turn on at maybe 300 RPM.
I built a large storage space on tough blocks and was well pleased with the ease of install and how it made establishing the “foundation” of the build much easier than slab or pier and beam.
The "rim board" is unsupported! The rim board is supposed to be the main support of the structure. You use hangers to ensure the joists are fully supported. They are designed to ensure the joists cannot drop below the rim board. This is completely backwards because the "joists" are supporting the "rim board.". Brass tacks, it will be fine. The hangers offer some clamping and allow you to space out more fasteners. Mostly just needs to be clarified a bit so that someone doesn't misunderstand and apply this to a use case that actually requires a rim board. Again, mostly fine but not technically correct. Looks great and I'll definitely us those tuff blocks in the future. I would have used them last weekend but i thought they needed to be special ordered.
the whole deck build is an asinine built. RUclipsrs should be required to make a disclaimer before each building video, that these aren't instructional videos and these builds are not up to building code.
This is definitely a gem of a find video amidst MANY otherwise “good efforts” and “better left unsaid” videos! Love how you take care of your sister and get the whole family is involved in this project. By the way I need a deck built too and I think we might be related. I’m married to your sister in-laws, baby cousin Tracy.
The joist hangers and expensive screws weren’t necessary, considering that they were supported by the plastic blocks. The hangers weren’t holding any weight at all. Looks good though😊
I wanted to say the same thing. Why would you waste all that money on joist hangers when there's no weight on that piece of wood. The whole point of joist hangers is to distribute weight evenly and safely. Could have just done screws or nails from the inside and still kept the face of the board clean. Or just did a double face board like he did on the other sides that he nailed through.
Over engineering is never a waste. At the very least it gives peace of mind. If any of the pads ever sink or shift (and they will), these measures will make it ridgid enough that if half those pads don’t make contact, it will still be safe and ridgid. This deck as he built it could be moved intact safely and efficiently with just 4 eye bolts installed in those end boards that he used the hangers. The extra cost involved is minuscule compared to the options it opens up in the future. This is a floating structure, it will require maintenance in the future if it stays in the same location. If he ever decided to move it or repurpose it, it could be done easily and with much more potential uses. If he wanted to repurpose this as an elevated permanent deck, it’s ready to. If he wanted to build a storage shed, he could slip a few Timbers under it, anchor those, and it’s ready to start framing on top of. If those pads settle or heave, or a family of foxes move in underneath or a pet decides to crawl under and have their offspring, these hangers give him the freedom to jack from the outer plates at will. Freedom is never free but the costs can be elevated greatly with some forethought and preparation. I am not a contractor, I am a farmer. If there’s anything a farmer knows well, it’s that todays problems are just reaction to yesterdays poor preparation. Hope for the best, even expect it. But Always plan for the worst, and when the worst comes, you’ll still be equipped and prepared to make it the best outcome possible. This mindset should be the same for every DIYer. Farmers are just professional DIYers.
people step up onto a deck, at the very edge. And they sit on the edge too....for years to come.... even when the whole ground level shifts and 'pads' sink
PRO TIP: Anytime I build a deck, I'll go buy a plastic skeleton from the local halloween store, put it under the deck boards. In 10-15 years when someone wants to move or redo the deck, it's gonna give a bit of excitement at the old home front!
Omg. This is the best thing ive ever gotten from a youtube comment. Landscaper here. Iy clearly have not been bringing my A-game cuz I never thought of this.
Oh, that is so funny! Maybe dress the skeleton in some old raggedy clothes. By the time anyone finds it, at first glance they'll freak out and raise all kinds of noise. 😂🤣
Great job on the desk. And video was enjoyable to watch as well. If Materials were $3k, I would have asked for $8k to build it as well, so I don't think it was bid too high.
Yes Sir! HaxMan, very clever way to build a deck for your favorite sister. I just built a deck and used that joint tape. I think it will prolong the life of the framing by shielding water and chemical cleaners from migrating into the wood. Deck boards are a lot easier to replace than deck framing. I think your sister will be wanting a covered deck next 🙂 Maybe show us what she does for that next time?
Love the pro tip of throwing all trash and cans ( usually natural ice) under said project. NEVER SEEN THAT BEFORE. great channel. Love that you’re helping family.
Enjoyable video. Some feedback: Never use an angle grinder one-handed, regardless of the disk being used on it. Always find a way to clamp the work (even just have someone stand on the shovel) and use both hands to control the tool. Angle grinders are one of the most dangerous power tools available to the layperson. Geotextiles like landscape fabric can be used to block weeds (and I agree that it's generally misguided for that purpose), but there's an additional reason to use it when laying a paver base. When coarse stone is laid atop bare soil or other fines, the fines will slowly migrate up into the stone base and subside. This can cause your paver base to shift and settle. A thick non-woven geotextile is nice and flexible and will flex rather than tearing around the sharp edges of the stone base, while also keeping sand or dirt from migrating up from below. This is an essential step to using crushed base where I live (Texas Blackland Prairie), unless you dig way down below the clay layers that heave and shift with changing moisture levels. Joist hangers are not necessary in this application. The load is carried directly to the ground through the blocks. The rim joist acts as blocking against joist twisting, and requires only 3-16d nails or 4-10d nails. The joist hangers are probably a little under a hundred dollar price difference, but include a lot more fiddling and fasteners, taking up more time. @HAXMAN was the choice to use the joist hangers just to avoid the visual impact of face nails through the rim joist? Why not use a trim board similar to the method you used to cover the face nails on the blocked extensions on the deck sides? Cost-wise it's probably a wash between the two methods.
8k for a deck is a good price. Depending on the temperature in the winter, the foundation should go below the frost line. Because it is in the south, the ground level foundation is acceptable. This is a major factor in the price. It can freeze in the south and shift the deck. That should be a consideration.
11:13 - OOPS! There goes keeping it clean on the outside! I like the pro tip at 18:48 better than the one at 18:23 (just sayin’). 20:20 - Here’s a pro tip to add to your mix: tap the anchor onto the post before fastening to the deck.
Pressure treated lumber has a lot of shrinking to do. But if you are buying kiln dried lumber (like the cedar decking I used) it has already been shrunk. So, it does matter what material you are using.
I've been building decks and fences for decades. A lot of good advice in the comments section. One thing I would add is decks like this need to be another inch or two above the ground. Over time soil will naturally build up along the edges as foliage dies off and is naturally composted which raises the ground. Once that soil is contacting that wood it will start to rot it. - doesn't matter what it has been treated with. I see this happen all the time to DIYers who build fences and don't take this into consideration when they install gates, especially if they don't put some sort of pavement or foundation under the gate and they leave it au natural. Mother nature ultimately takes over.
HAXMAN just discovered you today -YOU ARE GREAT - fun to watch, practical, you are a great guy! Wish I was your bro, too old to be, 80 in a few months! I have the greatest admiration and respect for you, guy! KEEP UP THE GREAT JOB!
DUDE 😂😂😂😂. . . I was Roaming Through RUclips & Started Watching You. 👍 😁 . . I have Throat Cancer and im just setting at Home Recovering. .. And you are helping me on getting me Through this Crap. . . I'm a Newly Retired Union Inside Electrician out of Local 481 Indianapolis. . So I work with my Hands also. . The wife said what are you Laughing at and l said some Cool Nut from Florida on RUclips. She just walked off Shaking her Head and said Whatever. . Then I said Set here and watch with me and She did. . . She started L0L after awhile and she said he acts like you. . I grinned & said TOLD YA 😊. . . . SO THANKS BRO FOR GETTING ME THROUGH THIS CANCER SHIT & ME & THE WIFE BEEN WATCHING EVERY EPISODE. 👍👍👍 . . THANK YOU . . * NUTS*. PS. . . . WOOLY BOOGER T- SHIRT ON THE WAY. . 😁
It's one of those unexpected videos that appear on the right side of your screen, unrelated to what you're watching, but you're happy you clicked on it. This guy's sense of humor and practical approach make learning fun. I've just subscribed!
I built a deck that would hold up a couple of Harley Dresser motorcycles. The extra bracing, doubling joists, and posts doubled in-ground. Big Cap bolts, and Lags bolts held the frame securely, with larger deck screws everywhere. Wrong Town....! I had to leave that gem of a structure behind. Note; my shovels were sharp before hitting all those diamond Hard rocks in the Ohio glacial till. MOISTURE Resistant means the Plastic will decay like Semiplastic manmade deck wood. Use Real wood. Support their renewable Mania. I burn CO2 in my car to renew forest food for the trees.
I bet you would love Nurajacks. They are like those plastic feet you used. But the top section can be "jacked up" so you can level your decking on uneven ground. As long is the ground isn't crazy out of level you don't have to dig at all(they suggest anchoring corners).
Great build, what a brother! You misstated the spacing bit...if you space wet deck boards, you'll have huge gaps, you DON'T space wet deck boards, which will give you about 1/4 gap when they dry. As far as the warping, I learned from a handyman RUclipsr and have seen from my deck renovation project this year, the boards tend to cup towards the bark side (so widest rings)..southern yellow pine sucks to work with.
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As a custom home builder (still working) since 1973, I've gotta say I enjoyed the vid. Couple suggestions from over half a century of building: Use a round over bit on your but ends of the deck boards. This eliminates the chipped, sharp edge and gives a more professional look. And always use a straight edge guide when cutting off the ends of the decking boards. Takes an extra 60 seconds but is well worth it. On any upright posts, always, always use a 45 degree chamfer bit to shape all four edges. This again gives a more professional look and eliminates splinters when those little hands or drunken stumbling grab the post to help the person retain an upright position. I do the 45 chamfer with the post in place, usually allowing the base of the router to determine the height off the bottom and the top for the cut. When I have those overly tight posts, I simply use a power hand planer to shave down the post base to make a proper fit. Using a sledge hammer to force fit a swollen piece of lumber is pretty barbaric and usually ends up deforming the top of the post. Just sayin...
Thanks for the tips and thanks for not hating! 😄
@JQUICK21um.. he’s been in this trade alone for 50 years (let alone any other jobs). So he’s about 70 years old... …Maybe you can fly out to meet him and help film, edit and post it?
THANK YOU DEAR SIR FOR SHARING YOUR ADVICE AND WISDOM --- WE APPRECIATE YOU!!!
Barbaric? Really??? Constructive ideas are great. Insults are shallow....
@@JamesScott-vc2xx You seem like an insult hunter, did you bag one?
Great instructions, great sense of humour. As a woman trying to learn this stuff with no one to ask, these videos are fabulous. It all the stuff they don’t explain in the “how to” books and instructions.
The best part of this build is you're doing it with family! 💯❤
Thank you! That's my favorite!
@@HAXMANTell Kim that a hard working woman (Prov 31) is BEAUTIFUL!
You are a wise man Clark. ❤ God Family Country ✝❤🇺🇸
Doing it with family, normally, is a friggin nightmare. Absolutely not.
If you have a rare, non-DYSFUNCTIONAL family (meaning a family that IS functional and capable) then you go right ahead and enjoy it because you are blessed with good time in your life with your family.
iv'e been a carpenter for 50 years and overbuild everything this deck is bomb proof you have outdone me and that's really hard to do . Kudos to you you're funny and very experienced save materials and cut costs by not overbuying materials and do a expert quality . For those DY ers following Adam you really cant go wrong .Thank you I laughed at your PRO Tips
I love it when I'm not sure that I want to watch a 24 minute-long video only to be surprised when it ends. Entertaining & informative. Bravo Haxman.
Thank you very much! When I'm editing them I start to get worried when they are this long and I can't cut them down any more.
I love the long versions. If I don't have enough time to watch, I add it to my watch later queue @HAXMAN
Wow! I'm 60 and my back hurts just watching this! Great job! Pay no attention to the haters. Hope you are enjoying a beer on that deck right now talking to your sister!
Adam, One of the best parts of this video is to see the complete family working together , congrats
Thank you!
Yeah, good job! I have to make my family have dinner together. Maybe they'd RATHER build a deck? Imma schedule it. I need one any way. They shoulda came to dinner. @@HAXMAN
Like this channel a lot. He relates to the laymen while still using pro standards. He cuts the crap without cutting corners. It really feels like you are hanging out at a friends house. That cool friend who doesnt overwhelm you who always teaches you something while being easy going. His good nature and good humor season the project perfectly and make the experience feel personal. It feels like the wife is recording on her cell phone but even if thats the case the editing is quite good . Witty subtle sound effects, proper music placement, pace of the project all layed together seamlessly. I often feel dizzy after watching youtube videos. They are generally under or over produced and it can be exausting to be honest. But Ive been watching for about 3 hours and I feel pretty good! So just thought a I would give my compliments. Take care everyone.
❤❤❤❤❤
Great Channel!
Coming from a retired deck/fence guy... the only step I didn't hear you mention (which would really only be helpful to beginners), is to make sure the crown of the joist are facing up.
Good overlooked point.
I learned several things watching this build. Thanks!
And the grain of the deck boards being right.
And cups down…to shed the rain…and spilled beer. Other than that… pretty good project!
how about squaring the entire thing?
Dock builder here. When you lay the deck boards down you want the, what you call the "bark side" which is called the crown side, you want that side up. If you've ever looked at old decks, you'll notice the most damaged boards are the ones that have the crown side down. If you look at the end of the board you will see this is because when you lay it crown down it creates a sort of bowl for the board to hold water longer, whereas with the crown up it allows the water to escape faster and keeps the board drier.
Yeah, every board with a smile on the end grain has a bowl on my decks. I told the contractor he should have made sure they were crown up so it would warp in a arch to shed water, but he didn't listen. Some say you then risk a layer splitting away, but I've only seen that twice in my life and it's still way better than having a bowl holding 1/8" of water.
When I see wood decks I see thousands and thousands of dollars wasted and a headache for someone to have to repair it. I know someone who sold their house after about 15 years because they found out the 2 story massive deck they had was going to cost then upwards of 100k dollars to replace in a few years. Wood decks are some the the worst decisions a homeowner can waste money on. That house and its new owners do not have a deck anymore. The cost exceeded what they were willing to do. Not in the same neighborhood, yet nearby there is a similar house that have a concrete deck that was built around the same time that is still in great condition. Unlike the wood deck which was attached to the house this concrete deck is free standing and sits a couple of inches away from the house. That house has some really nice siding unlike the wood deck house that for many years had a patch job where they removed the deck. The patio door was replaced with a large bay window like some of the other homes which do not have decks. Most of these homes all sit hill side... The kicker is that concrete deck has its own roof now because it is free standing. It sits much higher than the existing roof which still allows natural sunligh in and has a large number of those roll down shades and full of lighting above for night time use. I have not seen it in years yet last I know it is fully framed in with huge glass panes like those commercial windows and screens. I think its mostly like a greenhouse now.
Haxman and goat having a conversation. Reminds me of the time I communicated with a cow. It was a mooving experience.
I think you may be milking this a bit. 😁
@@HAXMAN 🤣
This is utterly ridiculous!!!
@@floridagunrat1625 Udderly ridiculous, I agree.
Didn't you mean a "mooing" experience?
I’m a contractor, and I love your video. Great work. I make a living redoing many DIY projects.
Do you love how he used those joist hangers?
My ground is boggy/silty so a floating deck is kind of ideal...thanks for putting this up and thanks to the algorithm for showing it to me - you must be doing something right.
EDIT: thanks for the tip on landscape fabric - since anything heavy sinks over time in my yard, if I do trenches, then lay the fabric in it, it should hold the shape enough for the paver base to settle into the shapes, kind of like a mold. If I had a quality soil in my yard I would leave it out, as you direct, but I don't, so I need to sort of mold or wrap the paver base to make it not sink directly in - the large piece of fabric will distribute the stresses and keep it "floating" kind of literally in my yard. :-) Thanks again!
YOU ARE GREAT !!! I am a 66 year old disabled woman. My husband and I have built ALL our garden boxes and pergolas and any yard accessories. We LOVE your EASE at building.....Thank you.
I have watched a dozen deck build videos and yours was absolutely the most entertaining as well as the best how to building instructions. I now think this 68 yr old women can construct a small deck, with confidence. Thank you.
P.S. I loved seeing all your family help in getting it done.
Thank you Jenn! I’m so glad it was helpful. Good luck!
Haxman, you are the best brother! Mine lives overseas and my other siblings are on the opposite coast. Someone smart once said “a family that builds a deck together stays together!” They must’ve had you in mind! Well done!💞
I appreciate that!
I got a metal detector to help me find a buried sprinkler valve box (it worked!), but it took me awhile because of all the Budweiser cans I found all over the yard. Digging elsewhere to put in a swingset, we found probably 100' of PVC, just bunches of pipe buried for no reason. I ended up using it in my garden beds for vine plants to climb. We've found glass beer bottles, bricks, rebar, concrete, shingles, and all sorts of stuff all over the property. House was built in 1994. Can't wait to find what is in the walls whenever we do some renovations.
MY house was built1979. every time it rains I get roofing nails, broken glass, tile cut offs from the foyer floor, whole bunch of random stuff. Have yet to find the construction trash pile but I assume its near the creek....
The same stuff will be in the walls.
That’s wild!
Put your beer cans in the bin.
Excellent work done by you and family members building this patio deck for your sister backyard.
Here is my pro-tip. When decking with pressure-treated. only install deck boards with the minimum screws necessary to hold in place. Once all boards are down, run chalk-lines to align the rest of the screws to get perfect straight screw lines.
I used to carry a chalk reel full of baby powder for this exact thing so you’re not leaving waterproof chalk lines on there
--- and be sure to use red chalk so the lines can be enjoyed by generations
@@mwrightinsurance holy shit sir, that's a good one
@@mr.pissshivers an old-school Carpenter taught me that about 20 years ago. It works great on any type of wood that you don’t wanna leave any chalk on
Everything was square and he was using a square to line the screws up, I imagine they were pretty straight. The chalk line is good too as a means to the same, as opposed to winging it but what he did works too.
I used that flashing tape on half of my deck (when I built an addition to it) the half without the tape has screws pulling out of it after about six years. The flashing tape part of the deck is solid.
What brand of flashing tape did you use?
@@jimw6991 no idea, I've never used it before and the friend who helped me replace my boards just picked up a few rolls and put them in the cart while we were getting aupplies. I can tell you this: we got it at Home Depot and it was in the tape aisle, not building materials, it's one of the aisles in the paint section. It's black in color about 2½ wide, stretches like rubber when you you pull it and it's made for the purpose of keeping the joists dry. I'm pretty sure you could ask someone in paints (that's where all of the tape products are located) just the way I described it and they'll know what you're talking about. If you can't find it, let me know I'll stop in and get you the name. It's one of the top ten smartest things I've ever done.
The little one looked like a bundle of help, even distracting you from work, love that, reminds me of my grand kids.
She enjoyed rearranging my screw boxes. 😄
@@HAXMAN She was your little helper. Helper of Making People Take a Break. :)
As I'm watching this, it doesn't even matter to me how the deck was made. I loved seeing you play with your family. Showing you take time out to have fun the kids is awesome! Thank you for sharing.
What you're saying about spacing deck boards applies to pretty much any wood you would use for decks or fences nowadays, and has been for some time. I bought a bunch of redwood for fencing back in the early 2000s and it was really wet and sappy. I left it in the van I used to haul it overnight. The next morning all the windows were fogged over on the inside and some sap had actually seeped out onto the back seat. But the interior of the van smelled AWESOME and was like a redwood forest for a couple of weeks. I put up those redwood fence boards with no gaps and as they gradually dried, the gaps appeared, and looked fine. Almost all deck/fence boards you can buy nowadays are so green they will behave like this.
What would I ever have done if it hadn't been for the help my brothers gave over the years! They were treasures! ❤ 😊 That's a great looking deck!
You .... are .... the .... Greatest .......... Brother!!
I try. 😂
@@HAXMAN Need a sister in Florida (on the coast! SRQ)? LOL
Great sense of humor, yet professional. Well done!
Pro-tip: Be sure to go dig a hole someplace and bury all your construction trash so when you are gardening later you can find hunks of concrete, blocks, and random metal scraps.
I'm still digging out stuff, wondering why my turf is dying and not growing.
Bricks in my case. I have an endless supply of bricks… so long as I sift my entire acre of land.
If I'd not already subscribed that protipabout the Coke cans etc. woulda earned it. Heard about a subdivision where the grading contractor had connection with demoliton of a bowling alley. People found bowling balls buried in their backyards.
I’m dealing with this Buried trash (cement, metal banding ect).
@@m_cabral You got bricks? I found 8 motorcycle engines at one of my properties and about a dozen carbies. I can't imagine who did it because it was a vacant block when my family bought it in the 1950's!
I am 3rd generation union construction worker, 20 years ago a local lumberyard had a going out of business sale. So my father, sister, and I got a great deal on pressure treated deck wood. When we put the top flooring deck down “back in the day rule of thumb to put a nickel joint” we decided to put it tightly against each other to allow for dry shrinkage gap. Sis and dad held off staining to allowed chemicals to dry out. I talk to a lot of union painters telling me to stain it right away??? Hell they know more about it then I do so I stain it. Oddly 20 years later I hardly had any shrinkage compared to my father & sis deck🤷
53-year-old here from Europe ... and will start next spring a new career as a carpenter/builder by going back to trade school ... IN THE US !!!! It's a dream come true !!!
Good luck!
@@HAXMAN Thanks. After years in the army and the other half of my career as an overseas contracter I still am excited like I was 15 years old ... looking so much forward to this life change and being able to finally craft something usable and sustainable with my own hands.
You earned another subscriber today !
Im 60, and I grew doing carpentry as well as most other construction trades including heavy equipment operator. Worked it all of my life and I still enjoy the satisfaction of completing a project. I love the smell of new concrete, sawdust, fresh turned dirt, and diesel fumes!
@Vurt.451
Well done! Old-guy carpenter here... make sure you take care of your body.
Welcome.
Come to Texas.( Indian for friends) youl like Texas.
I like what you did, the finished product looks nice. Couple of things I noted:
First, you used joist hangers to hang the rim joists FROM the end of the deck joists. Joist hangers are designed to support weight on the under fold, with the screws only locking the joist in place so it doesn't move. With no TUFFBlocks under the rim joists, the only thing supporting the weight of the rim joists are the screws, any weight on the edges is pulling the rim down from the open end of the hanger, which defeats the purpose. Next time, flip the rim joist - or install the hangers upside down - so the joist hanger hangs/rests on the end of the deck joists to support the weight of the rim joists, and better support the weight of anyone stepping up/standing on the edges of the deck.
Second, at the 17:19 mark, you talk about the "bottom of a smile" on the boards, and that people are divided on which way to mount the deck board. You can look for the prettier side if you want, but the reason for the rule of thumb is a board's tendency to "cup" or "crown," based on which way you mount the board. As wood dries, the rings on the board naturally want to "straighten out," which pulls on the edges of the board in the direction that "straight" would be if the board could actually open up and straighten the rings. This is why they say to mount deck boards "smiling," not "frowning." As the deck boards dry and try to straighten up, the board will crown (bow up) in the middle slightly. This is what you want, so that water can run off the boards easily, rather than pool in the board, which is what happens if it's installed upside down and begins to "cup" as it dries. Cupped boards will rot faster with pooling water than crowned boards that shed the water. This is why, to most professional recommendations, the direction you mount the boards matters a great deal. It's not really, truly a debate in any way.
That said, I have no problem with using whichever side is prettier to look at, as long as it's understood that cupped boards will have to be replaced a lot sooner than crowned boards. If the person doesn't mind that, then it's dealer's choice. I just wanted to point out that there's actually some science behind how installation is recommended, it's not just personal preference. A contractor primary concern is protecting his/her work. He/she doesn't want to have to come out and replace any decking prematurely, so they install to the scientific recommendations of the wood's structure.
Your work came out nice, I really like the fire pit, I've used a similar one before, they're great. The Adirondack chairs are nice, and so are the Edison bulbs. All in all, a nice simple deck, that DEFINITELY saved quite a bit of money. 👍👍
I literally came here for this, how does nobody notice he is getting the very basics of carpentry wrong.
Really..... find a real Hobby.
Big Foot cruising by checking you guys out was hilarious!
We call 'em swamp apes down here!
The only way I knew it was not a real Big Foot was that the footage was crystal clear lol
Obviously working on a similar project and sneaking by for some tips....also the 'throwing daughter in the air' technique....maybe learnt something there.....
Seeing as how joist hangers and the fasteners that are required to attach them are indeed expensive I strongly feel the need to mention the proper use of them.
The joist hanger is attached to the member that is holding all the weight, thus allowing it to carry the weight of the inner joists.
On this particular build you have them upside down in my opinion. (Every builder laughing now at how ridiculous that sounds because they are clearly right side up as intended)
The problem with this particular build is that all your inner joists are supported on the ground already and your rim joist is just hanging there. As well as your outside rim board that runs parallel with your inner supported joists.
If you are going to support all your inner joists I would suggest putting your hangers upside down thus letting the joists support your rim board. That would then allow the transfer of weight from your inner joists (supported) to the capping rim board, which you could then use a hanger as intended to carry the weight of your outer unsupported joists.
excellent, family working together great memories
Deck looks really solid and well built. I would suggest using a vapor/moisture barrier on the ground after site work is done. You gonna have weeds growing up between the deck boards once they shrink up a bit
Yep. Also building code requires it when lumber is nearly sitting on the ground.
Crowns are always best to put upward, since they tend to straighten over time under the force of gravity. Bark side tends to be the high point of the crown. This applies to the boards edge crowns also. This helps to shed off rainwater and helps prevent puddling, which soaks into the boards, causing damage and dangerous patches of ice.
Great build, totally agree on getting rid of the weed mat. And, worth mentioning you didn't over drive the screws like so many other channels do.
😅😅😅😅😅😅😅 Adam, you are just in time. I'm sending this to my husband bc he got a pile of Lumber to build us a deck. Now he can watch you to build it. ❤😊
Awesome!
I have been in construction since 1961 when my first job, at 10 yrs of age, was to straighten the rusty, bent nails my depression-era dad saved. In 1971, I struck out on my own as a self-employed carpenter and later licensed contractor. I'm too old to swing a hammer or squeeze the nail gun trigger all day, but I do all of my company bids. So here's one for you: If there is a next time, attach the joist hanger to the rim board on one side only and let the other side run wild. As you drop in the joist, attach it to the hanger (on the same side you already screwed down) with a couple of screws and then tighten up the other leg of the hanger against the joist and screw away. Otherwise, sometimes the joist binds up and won't drop into the hanger without a fight.
Yes, I remember when Dads and Grandads would "save" nails rather than toss them in the trash!!
In some States where they have codes and even different codes per County, for decks, attached or not, has to be treated material due to the distance from the ground to the bottom of your joists. Yeah, even me being a retired Building Contractor, I hail anyone who wants to save money on these projects but I would always check to find out about the codes first. For example, I'm an Oregonian and here in my county, wind and rain are considered and the deck has to be 30 inches off the ground to NOT BE treated material.
Very good video with some great ideas. Here are some other things to consider: Tip #1: If you have trees near the deck that drop "helicopter seeds" (i.e. Maple, Poplar and others) PT boards placed with no spacing will shrink and leave the perfect gap for such seeds to be trapped in the gaps... very annoying. A 1/8" initial gap will result in just enough space after the boards shrink for seeds to fall through. Gaps after drying will be acceptable. Tip #2: 1" 'above ground' PT decking from box stores is garbage that will only last around 6-8 years depending on climate. Go to your local traditional builder's supply and check into a special order of GROUND CONTACT pressure treated 2 x 6 lumber to use for decking. This route may be less expensive than composite decking and will last 20+ years. Tip #3: The proper way to secure cable using cable clamps is to place all saddles against the loaded side of the cable, never the U-bolt against the load. Not a big issue here with light loading, but the U-bolt on a cable clamp greatly stresses the wire and reduces its strength while the saddle spreads the stress and preserves its strength.
Great tips. Re: #3, what's a saddle?
@@mkeyx82 it's what Banks do when they sell you a bad Mortgage deal
@@mkeyx82 the bar that the ends of the U go through.
"* Never saddle a dead horse" ie dont put the clamp bar of a cable clamp on the tag end, put it on the long load side
Every kid needs an uncle like this.
Even us adults need an uncle like this!
Every kitchen have a dad like this
Love you showing how laziness is a virtue. Premounting the joist hangers, no use of landscaping fabric, etc is a huge time saver so you can concentrate on what really matters.
Deck looks great. In the future you should use stainless nails for the gun and stainless screws. It’s worth the added cost. Those coated screws, do and will rust over time in the pressure treated boards.
I'm a 75 year old woman; who does NO construction, and even I enjoyed watching this video. Great to be informed of cheaper ways to build and see how some things have changed over the years.
Thanks, loved the project, good information, blessing for you and the family. Blessing for the camarasister.
The grain of the plank gives ain indication of how the board will curve when drying, you want it to curve down into the deck, and not curve up into a cupping action
I found you to be hilarious and informative. I bought some of the TuffBlocks today after watching your video. I put them in my Lowes basket of materials to buy for my shed foundation. They look lighter and easier to handle than concrete blocks. Watching your video was right on time about the TuffBlock and no weed barrier. I really appreciated the rooster sounds. Have a great day and I thoroughly enjoyed your video. Great job and you did save your sister a bunch of money, and yes, you are worlds greatest brother😊👍
Thank you so much! I'm glad you found the video useful. Good luck on you shed foundation!
a tip from a craft show vendor- use 5 gallon buckets of water with ratchet straps to hold down pop up canopys take the strap up to the upper cross brace and wrap around the leg 10 times better than a drive in stake!!!!! i use screws almost completely anymore
Excellent deck building method. Appreciate your taking the time to share this instructional video. Awesome!
I’m a contractor. I’ve never seen a deck built that way and I don’t hate you. Good job 👍
very nice video. DIY video, we amateurs just don't have all the tools professionals have, so I really appreciate your videos as it shows what we "normal" people can and will do...
Dude, the sasquatch walk did me in, I was laughing for 10 minutes straight. Wife thought I was crazy. Well done sir.
😄 Thanks!
Sasquatch is like a cat. Loves to watch people doin' stuff.
The skin walkers bothered me a bit.
@@Daniela-Christianson Cats make everthing so much easier.
Great job! Waiting for the night shot with the fire pit and lights on full display!!
Good job. Food for thought: Those cordless tools are multi-speed, i.e. you control the speed with your trigger finger to control the screw right? So why do you all feel the need to continually trigger the tool to sink the screw? All you are achieving is depleting the power in the battery at a greater rate, not to mention shortening the life of said battery. This is the sole reason I do not loan my tools to other tradesmen. If anyone presents the argument that it's quicker I would say of all the sites I have been on over the last 40 years no one was waiting for me, quite the opposite.
Fruit gums, he was driving me crazy with that pumping action. They do that on This Old House also. I have variable speed Bosch tools. They start out at 0 to full RPM in a smooth increase in speed. Other tools turn on at maybe 300 RPM.
Awesome work! I just built a floating deck for a gazebo and tips like you show are priceless
I built a large storage space on tough blocks and was well pleased with the ease of install and how it made establishing the “foundation” of the build much easier than slab or pier and beam.
That’s good to hear.
Fantastic. Sooooo many tidbits of USEFUL info. Entertaining, as usual. God bless my friend.
The "rim board" is unsupported! The rim board is supposed to be the main support of the structure. You use hangers to ensure the joists are fully supported. They are designed to ensure the joists cannot drop below the rim board. This is completely backwards because the "joists" are supporting the "rim board.". Brass tacks, it will be fine. The hangers offer some clamping and allow you to space out more fasteners. Mostly just needs to be clarified a bit so that someone doesn't misunderstand and apply this to a use case that actually requires a rim board. Again, mostly fine but not technically correct. Looks great and I'll definitely us those tuff blocks in the future. I would have used them last weekend but i thought they needed to be special ordered.
the whole deck build is an asinine built. RUclipsrs should be required to make a disclaimer before each building video, that these aren't instructional videos and these builds are not up to building code.
Exactly this
This is definitely a gem of a find video amidst MANY otherwise “good efforts” and “better left unsaid” videos! Love how you take care of your sister and get the whole family is involved in this project. By the way I need a deck built too and I think we might be related. I’m married to your sister in-laws, baby cousin Tracy.
The joist hangers and expensive screws weren’t necessary, considering that they were supported by the plastic blocks. The hangers weren’t holding any weight at all. Looks good though😊
I wanted to say the same thing. Why would you waste all that money on joist hangers when there's no weight on that piece of wood. The whole point of joist hangers is to distribute weight evenly and safely. Could have just done screws or nails from the inside and still kept the face of the board clean. Or just did a double face board like he did on the other sides that he nailed through.
Over engineering is never a waste. At the very least it gives peace of mind. If any of the pads ever sink or shift (and they will), these measures will make it ridgid enough that if half those pads don’t make contact, it will still be safe and ridgid. This deck as he built it could be moved intact safely and efficiently with just 4 eye bolts installed in those end boards that he used the hangers. The extra cost involved is minuscule compared to the options it opens up in the future. This is a floating structure, it will require maintenance in the future if it stays in the same location. If he ever decided to move it or repurpose it, it could be done easily and with much more potential uses. If he wanted to repurpose this as an elevated permanent deck, it’s ready to. If he wanted to build a storage shed, he could slip a few Timbers under it, anchor those, and it’s ready to start framing on top of. If those pads settle or heave, or a family of foxes move in underneath or a pet decides to crawl under and have their offspring, these hangers give him the freedom to jack from the outer plates at will. Freedom is never free but the costs can be elevated greatly with some forethought and preparation. I am not a contractor, I am a farmer. If there’s anything a farmer knows well, it’s that todays problems are just reaction to yesterdays poor preparation. Hope for the best, even expect it. But Always plan for the worst, and when the worst comes, you’ll still be equipped and prepared to make it the best outcome possible.
This mindset should be the same for every DIYer. Farmers are just professional DIYers.
The tough blocks are way to expensive if you're using more than 4.
I'm glad someone caught that beside's me.
people step up onto a deck, at the very edge. And they sit on the edge too....for years to come.... even when the whole ground level shifts and 'pads' sink
Awesome brother!!! You rock man doing this for her!
PRO TIP: Anytime I build a deck, I'll go buy a plastic skeleton from the local halloween store, put it under the deck boards. In 10-15 years when someone wants to move or redo the deck, it's gonna give a bit of excitement at the old home front!
I did that with a wall I built at a friend's house 2 years ago plus I wrapped it in plastic 😂
It a good idea to keep a plastic skeleton available, I have one in the garage, for just such an occasion.
Omg. This is the best thing ive ever gotten from a youtube comment. Landscaper here. Iy clearly have not been bringing my A-game cuz I never thought of this.
Gold.
Oh, that is so funny! Maybe dress the skeleton in some old raggedy clothes. By the time anyone finds it, at first glance they'll freak out and raise all kinds of noise. 😂🤣
I am SOOOO glad I watched your video before starting my floating deck project! So enjoyable! Thank you for making it.
Greetings: $8000 Estimate - $3000 materials - 2 days collective labour = Savings? What a brother. Thx 4 the share.
Loved watching Sasquatch walking in the background while you were installing 4x4’s! Wonderful touch! Enjoy the beautiful deck!
Great job on the desk. And video was enjoyable to watch as well. If Materials were $3k, I would have asked for $8k to build it as well, so I don't think it was bid too high.
Thanks for making this video! I really enjoyed it. Im sure your sister's family will enjoy the new deck!
A natural funny guy is always more fun to watch than a RUclipsr who tries too hard to be engaging. Love your video.
I appreciate that!
Yes Sir! HaxMan, very clever way to build a deck for your favorite sister. I just built a deck and used that joint tape. I think it will prolong the life of the framing by shielding water and chemical cleaners from migrating into the wood. Deck boards are a lot easier to replace than deck framing. I think your sister will be wanting a covered deck next 🙂 Maybe show us what she does for that next time?
I'm always amazed how much hardware costs. Screws and galvanized things are crazy expensive
Love the pro tip of throwing all trash and cans ( usually natural ice) under said project. NEVER SEEN THAT BEFORE. great channel. Love that you’re helping family.
When you sharpen your spade/shovel, grind the back edge not the top side, it will last longer.
Enjoyable video. Some feedback:
Never use an angle grinder one-handed, regardless of the disk being used on it. Always find a way to clamp the work (even just have someone stand on the shovel) and use both hands to control the tool. Angle grinders are one of the most dangerous power tools available to the layperson.
Geotextiles like landscape fabric can be used to block weeds (and I agree that it's generally misguided for that purpose), but there's an additional reason to use it when laying a paver base. When coarse stone is laid atop bare soil or other fines, the fines will slowly migrate up into the stone base and subside. This can cause your paver base to shift and settle. A thick non-woven geotextile is nice and flexible and will flex rather than tearing around the sharp edges of the stone base, while also keeping sand or dirt from migrating up from below. This is an essential step to using crushed base where I live (Texas Blackland Prairie), unless you dig way down below the clay layers that heave and shift with changing moisture levels.
Joist hangers are not necessary in this application. The load is carried directly to the ground through the blocks. The rim joist acts as blocking against joist twisting, and requires only 3-16d nails or 4-10d nails. The joist hangers are probably a little under a hundred dollar price difference, but include a lot more fiddling and fasteners, taking up more time. @HAXMAN was the choice to use the joist hangers just to avoid the visual impact of face nails through the rim joist? Why not use a trim board similar to the method you used to cover the face nails on the blocked extensions on the deck sides? Cost-wise it's probably a wash between the two methods.
8k for a deck is a good price. Depending on the temperature in the winter, the foundation should go below the frost line. Because it is in the south, the ground level foundation is acceptable. This is a major factor in the price. It can freeze in the south and shift the deck. That should be a consideration.
Big Foot was the best part of the whole project! Great pod cast! Thank you!
11:13 - OOPS! There goes keeping it clean on the outside! I like the pro tip at 18:48 better than the one at 18:23 (just sayin’). 20:20 - Here’s a pro tip to add to your mix: tap the anchor onto the post before fastening to the deck.
This video has a lot of overdoing and flaws. Materials list could have been sliced in half.
You work so hard. Thank you for sharing all your work.
Built a lot of decks, first time I ever heard anyone properly point out to butt those deck boards tight against each other
Pressure treated lumber has a lot of shrinking to do. But if you are buying kiln dried lumber (like the cedar decking I used) it has already been shrunk. So, it does matter what material you are using.
I've been building decks and fences for decades. A lot of good advice in the comments section. One thing I would add is decks like this need to be another inch or two above the ground. Over time soil will naturally build up along the edges as foliage dies off and is naturally composted which raises the ground. Once that soil is contacting that wood it will start to rot it. - doesn't matter what it has been treated with. I see this happen all the time to DIYers who build fences and don't take this into consideration when they install gates, especially if they don't put some sort of pavement or foundation under the gate and they leave it au natural. Mother nature ultimately takes over.
I want to do the same thing with tuff blocks. I’ve never used them but it looks so easy!
It is. It's even easier on a raised deck because the blocks don't have to be level with each other.
Too expensive.
HAXMAN just discovered you today -YOU ARE GREAT - fun to watch, practical, you are a great guy! Wish I was your bro, too old to be, 80 in a few months! I have the greatest admiration and respect for you, guy! KEEP UP THE GREAT JOB!
I FORGOT - YOU ARE JUST DOWN RIGHT FUN -TOO!
DUDE 😂😂😂😂. . . I was Roaming Through RUclips & Started Watching You. 👍 😁
. . I have Throat Cancer and im just setting at Home Recovering. .. And you are helping me on getting me Through this Crap. . .
I'm a Newly Retired Union Inside Electrician out of Local 481 Indianapolis. . So I work with my Hands also. . The wife said what are you Laughing at and l said some Cool Nut from Florida on RUclips. She just walked off Shaking her Head and said Whatever. . Then I said Set here and watch with me and She did. . . She started L0L after awhile and she said he acts like you. . I grinned & said TOLD YA 😊. .
. . SO THANKS BRO FOR GETTING ME THROUGH THIS CANCER SHIT & ME & THE WIFE BEEN WATCHING EVERY EPISODE. 👍👍👍
. . THANK YOU . . * NUTS*.
PS. .
. . WOOLY BOOGER T- SHIRT ON THE WAY. . 😁
Sending prayers of healing your way, Sir...also wishing for more laughing and happy times for you and your lady 💖
God bless you and your wife Kevin. I hope you have a speedy recovery. Thank you so much for writing this and supporting the channel! 👊
@vshakir622 Thanks Bro. . . Appreciate it 👍. .
@HAXMAN 👍Keep up the Good Work. . . I GET DOWN TO FLA. 2 OR 3 TIMES A YEAR . MIGHT HAVE TO LOOK YOU UP & HAVE A BEER OR SOMETHING 👍
@@kevinpattison5141🙏🙏🙏
It's one of those unexpected videos that appear on the right side of your screen, unrelated to what you're watching, but you're happy you clicked on it. This guy's sense of humor and practical approach make learning fun. I've just subscribed!
Step one for a cheap and affordable deck is get a sponsor to pay for it. 😮😂
Yeah, but, that's $530.00 just for the blocks! I would get them if they were maybe $3.00 each.
Great vid man. Love seeing family help family.
maybe put the post mount on before screwing it down?
I told him that. He didnt hear me I guess
@@laurencerilling5873 lol
Awesome build! Thank you for posting 😀
The project took 2x longer than originally promised. Just like the professionals 😂
At least I wasn't over budget. 😂
@HAXMAN
wasn't the budget "a fraction" of 8,000? 😂You couldn't screw that up, you nailed it.
@@jakemelinko had to be 4,000 or less to be a single fraction, since anything over 1/2 is going to be multiple fractions 😂
The old project axiom still holds: You can have the project done 1) On time, 2) Within budget, 3) Done right -- Pick two.
@@priestesslucy Huh? Why can't 3/4 of something be a fraction of something?
Sitting here at my office with Haxman playing in the background and this is the video that introduced me to the channel.
Pro tip I place Halloween skulls and bones under my decks
Quickest way to get a visit from the FBI when you sell the house 😂
Imagine the excitement at the nursing home @@cindy-tron
You make it so easy that I can do it on my own now. Thanks
I built a deck that would hold up a couple of Harley Dresser motorcycles. The extra bracing, doubling joists, and posts doubled in-ground. Big Cap bolts, and Lags bolts held the frame securely, with larger deck screws everywhere. Wrong Town....! I had to leave that gem of a structure behind. Note; my shovels were sharp before hitting all those diamond Hard rocks in the Ohio glacial till. MOISTURE Resistant means the Plastic will decay like Semiplastic manmade deck wood. Use Real wood. Support their renewable Mania. I burn CO2 in my car to renew forest food for the trees.
I always put a slight slope to the deck to prevent water pooling on deck. Extends the life of the deck and allows you use deck sooner after rain.
Sharpening a shovel, why did i laugh so hard😂
Good choice with the screws and no fabric. You're so smart🎉
Loved the tiny dancer 💖
I bet you would love Nurajacks. They are like those plastic feet you used. But the top section can be "jacked up" so you can level your decking on uneven ground. As long is the ground isn't crazy out of level you don't have to dig at all(they suggest anchoring corners).
8k for a deck? Crazy. The "Squatch" behind the scenes = "priceless". Great video, cheers :)
Actually that sounds fair
Great build, what a brother! You misstated the spacing bit...if you space wet deck boards, you'll have huge gaps, you DON'T space wet deck boards, which will give you about 1/4 gap when they dry. As far as the warping, I learned from a handyman RUclipsr and have seen from my deck renovation project this year, the boards tend to cup towards the bark side (so widest rings)..southern yellow pine sucks to work with.
0:15 I had to pause the video and go listen to Ram Jam.
And the world's most brilliant DIY genius!!!!