🔥I released an album of music you can listen to free! Let me know what you think! 👉 open.spotify.com/artist/1VOVKFOF2gmaiZysdVug2I?si=HUEvBHVzSDKfoayWUNO4vQ
8:45 You HAVE TO edge it, because these edges will break if you don't. Contrete (at least the normal one) is very weak if it's too thin, like on the very edge of the corners. So rounding them off makes it less likely to snatch something on it and makes for a thicker edge (looking from all sides and in all directions). A slab this thin and put outside is also quite likely to break if it freezes, (you should be deep enough with the concrete to stay below the frostline), but since I don't know where you live and if you have cold enough winters to worry about frost; I'll give you a pass on that one. But maybe mention this kind of thing for the viewers in the future? :)
Hey man I’m a Cement Mason and love your videos. I have one tip for when you are setting your forms and leveling them. You can attach your boards to the stakes first then just pound them down gently until they are level it really makes it easier especially doing big jobs like we do commercially. Well done 👍🏼
I have a probably dumb question but I want to make sure I understand it. Are you saying that when you nail the stakes to the form boards first, it allows you to more easily drive the forms into the ground and makes it easier to level? Thanks.
Stakes have holes in them so you can nail it into the board. Then you can pull or pound the stake in with the level on tip of the 2x4 to get it level. I believe that is what he is explaining.
@@tlojewelrylove yes, if the board is already attached to the stake, if the stake goes down, the board also goes down. to be honest there are much easier ways to do all aspects of the forming that are not shown in this video, setting forms is very easy. the video doesnt really do it wrong necessarily, but he did waste a lot of time doing useless things, and you dont need to buy whatever weird flex forms he used cause those are prob hella expensive for something you can do very easily without it
@@jimjam4210 pretty much, except most stakes dont have holes pre drilled unless you spent extra money on steel stakes, which you really dont need. a simple wooden stake from homedepot is like $5 for a whole pack and works just as good (unless you are beating them all day every day, then they will just break, and then i would absolutely agree the steel ones would be better)
Bender board is just 1/4 MDF cut into strips, easy enough to make your own. if you make two layers and laminate with glue they will be rigid and require less staking. I also highly recommend doing integral stain over a wash, it just holds up better -- look for "iron oxide (red/black/yellow)." Believe it or not, the rain probably helped your slab. Adding water on top during curing helps keep the concrete from drying out and cracking as it shrinks. Nice firepit.
I dont think id want to use it.. cool tho. When I do my rebar I mig weld the stuff together lol.. wont like messing with that wire tie method.. so steel for the win.
It's a pretty new product. Apparently, it's better because it will never rust away like the steel ones would. They like to market it as lighter, but I'm not sure why that's considered a selling point when the steel ones don't weigh that much (unless you're carrying them up flights of stairs or something). The issue is you can't bend them and cutting them releases fiber dust (though they say they have a tool to cut them that doesn't make dust).
I'm not even interested in the project but watched from start to finish. Kudos for mentioning the names of all the tools, lots of "instruction guys" leave huge gaps in their delivery. I cussed for you when the roller hit the concrete.
I have a level similar to that and I have installed my leach field, my septic tank and poured many concrete footings for solar installs using it. The trick is to get there at Dusk or Right before first light, then marking out what needs to be marked. That tool has saved me a lot of money. I Really enjoy your content and I find your editing and comments hilarious in a good way. Keep it up man
I had a home siding project. All fired up to use the laser. Middle of summer. So bright could not see. Then I found a pair of glasses on Amazon. Being a red laser, the red glasses absolutely made a huge difference. Bosch made them. They were harder to find and Noone had them local. Absolute must for outdoor daylight operations
What part of the country are you in. Im trying to gauge if some of your methods will work where I live. Hard to tell with the trees. Palmetto, Aust pines etc
A tip on using a stamp roller for stamped concrete. Use the Roller in one direction one time. Its not like painting a wall. Smooth out when ready use roller one time in one direction, and lift off at end of roll. Roll one time semi over lapping the previous roll.
I really enjoy watching your tutorial videos. I love that you share your knowledge, along with the things that don’t work. Some people clean up all the videos and only show a really quick run through and a finished product and they don’t show the pitfalls of the project. This is what makes you stand out for me because a lot of the projects you’re currently doing are things that we would like to do in the future. Thank you for taking the time to teach others on RUclips. 😊
"why do you edge it?" isn't just to look good. It's also so that the curved corner doesn't chip as easily if something catches that edge. It's also just that much safer if you fall and hit it.
Thanks for the info. I will borrow some of your ideas. I poured some steps with dirt-crete. Use cement instead of concrete and mix local soil as your aggregate. No stain needed, no leveling. Instead of smoothing it and then using a pattern roller, just use a vibrator and walk away. Looks exactly like what you made with less effort and cost.
You are a man after my own heart, if you can do it yourself that's the way to go 🤩👌I have made footstools from electrical cable spools, my own cushions and bed pillows from the stuffing from two large leather sofas I used to have, canned food, covered my bed headboard, made curtains and hundreds of items of clothes I even like to propagate my own plants from other people's plants. It's not that I am frugal I just love doing it, I wish I had found your channel earlier.😉
Looks great! The main reason to edge is to have a rounded corner. A sharp corner easily chips and breaks while a round corner is stronger (and helps to hide any imperfections on the edge). That roller coming off would drive me crazy. I'd be looking at putting a screw into it...
I'd like a price breakdown on this. Quickret, forms, mold release, re bar, acetone, pigment, base material, rental cost, and what ever I'm forgetting. $400 sounds awfully conservative.
On those roller stamps... I found using masking tape at the end of the roller kept it on fine and Use your concrete mixing tray with a few inches of water in it and make sure the roller is really wet for each roll and you can apply the stamp earlier and it comes out great
Learn to use a tarp or piece of plastic to mix your concrete. Spread out a 6x8 tarp, bodyslam a bag of concrete in the middle pull out what's left of the paper bag and hold all 4 corners up and add water. Then take 2 corners in each hand and roll it back and forth on the ground until mixed. It works twice as well with 2 people. An "X" pattern works best. In other words your left hand then their left hand. Your right hand, their right hand. You're welcome!
@@thomasjameson5761 when we used to build decks in Maryland and it was perfect for 2 men. Mix it up and use the tarp to carry and pour. I learned from a friend who learned it from local lineman. I've heard it's how WW2 cooks mixed large amounts of ingredients for the troops.
You rock, not trying to pour too much. Edger is always a trick, but it seals the edge so it won’t Spauld. Turn edger the other way to scrape the edge when pouring the next phase. Great tool. Good job.
A tip for your Rebar which you probably already know. When you place your Rebar, you want to make sure that it's "Floating" in the middle of your concrete. If any piece of the rebar touches anything that isn't concrete, it invites moisture, rust, expansion, ect. I don't know how much of an issue it is with fiberglass rebar but you have to be careful with the normal stuff.
My father built houses his entire life and his brother was a mason. I helped pour concrete in our entire backyard because his work truck would sink into the ground because he carried do much materials for the jobs. The separating stringers and perimeter forms were coated with motor oil so the concrete wouldn't stick and they could be used over and over. No mold release used EVER
I use the lasers at dusk / dawn, that makes them much more visible. You could also use green glasses to at least see them a little easier. Red lasers are even worse outdoors. Apart from that, great project and thanks for sharing.
@@HAXMAN Ha, yep. I saw the sweat dripping off your nose. Here in Phoenix, it might not be as humid, but it's hotter than a two-peckered goat in tight jeans. And I am dumb enough to do projects during summer. So yeah, I understand what it's like to drink 10 gallons of water and miraculously never have to pee. Great job as always, sir!
This vid has like 30 million views in 24 hours, so here is a 100 grand tip = used motoroil for mold release. Until next time, from toxic wastelands of eastern Europe, this is Tom the Builder, signing out
Man, you have me fiending to do this... I am nearly done with the heavy lifting on my garden and I can move into other projects. I promised my girls I would build them a new playset this year but papa wants a fire pit...they can play on that right? I'll paint it pink they'll never know.
Just having the bubble touch may work, but it is easier to just do the math. Find level and then measure down 1/4" for every foot of distance. Since you said 65" inches, you should drop 1 3/8" inches from level. Especially when doing stamped concrete which will have spots that capture the water.
i'm not a crete guy, but i've heard steel rebar reacts with concrete and over years/decades swells as it corrodes, causing cracks and sometimes even popping out chunks. i doubt fiber bar has the same problem, so good choice.
Wow. Gorgeous. Loved this. All so helpful as we look to redo our backyard. I especially like the finish and the stain. Had no idea how that look was ever achieved. Bravo.
looks good man! only problem i have with it is you didnt use any seperation against the fire pit and the slab. i personally would have put buffalo board around the base of the fire pit as an expansion joint because that will eventually heave a bit with the ground . other than that pretty sweet build
Screen it in like a gazebo and it would be a blessing to sit in there regardless of the temps or bugs... Make sure you have some type roof vent so when you have a fire in the center pit. Thumbs Up!
Nice work! I believe optimally you would raise your rebar about an inch off the ground to get in the middle of the slab, but given that this isn't going to be exceedingly weight-bearing, you will likely be OK. You can buy plastic 'chairs' to put under or just do something with a tiny pieces of wood
Use metal key joint for projects like this. It stays in. Also you don’t need rebar for a patio. You could add fiberglass strands to the mix or just get 5000 psi mix.
Some companies make reflective markers for outdoor/indoor laser use but you can use retroflective tape, or even just the strips on a safety vest to see that laser outside, hope that helps in the future!
Another great video! Love your projects. For future projects that need a laser line outside, they make glasses that are designed to help you see the specific color laser you're using. Normally about $15-20 per pair. You do great work arounds for problems you run into, but this will help make it easier for your next project. Great job.
I needed a 10' x 10' pad. When I did the math on both quikcrete and pavers. The quikcrete was 42 80lb bags at $5.98 a bag which was about $252. I needed about 110 (wastage included) 12"x12" pavers at $1.78 a paver, which is $195. So pavers were cheaper. And they're easier IMO, to install than pouring concrete. I ended up with a bigger pad because I didn't trim any of the pavers. So concrete is not always cheaper. Plus, many pads need rebar which adds to the cost.
So awesome. I miss my acreage sometimes, expecially when it comes to space to do things like this. I have one in the city, but I dont have room to build an area to leave chairs all the time, My old one was this big, but I did wood border with landscaping tiles and filled it all with pea gravel. 100% not as fancy as this, but was a lot cheaper and faster
I'd like to build a firepit like this - but I have heard the concrete (or whatever material, rock, brick, etc) exterior ends up blocking a ton of the heat from radiating out to the people around the fire - so its a great smokeless fire but everyone sitting around it is cold on chilly nights. Perhaps you would be better of leaving the steel expose to radiate more heat out. I was also thinking of going to a landscape brick exterior but stacked with openings to let close to 50% of the steel exposed - love to get your feedback on that before I go thru the process! thx!
For precise measurements of a radius use a rope or even an extension cord. Lay around your circle then mark both ends where they meet with a line. Then stretch it out measure the distance and divide according to how many points you want and mark those distances. Then lay back around your circle and transfer the marks to dirt.
Great video sir. We all love how you explain all the good, bad, and learning moments in your videos. Almost never does a job go perfect, and it's good to see that in action. As far as edging difficulty, I suggest investing in a large heavier pro style edger as they make it easier on the wrists to get a smooth finish. Keep it up.
I watched your videos a few years back I lost ya because I didn’t suscribe. But love the new fire pit and that’s how I found you again lol lessons learned
I enjoy your humor and confessions of what you don't know. For things that you need, I would add that considering the frequency of rain, you may also need a pavilion.
A thought for keeping the stamp roller from falling off. Since it's not the same length as the tool you have room to drill a hole at the end of the tool and put a pin (bolt & nut or something similar) in it to keep it from sliding out
A follow up video on this after a few seasons would be nice. I would like to see if it settles and stays nice and flat or if they get all uneven over time. It seems like being only 2 and a half thick or so would make them so light that they will shift around a lot.
I’m wanting to do this fire pit idea. Do you believe the air intakes would draw proper air if you’d had them lower and ran all the way out to the edge of your pad? This would keep the intakes hidden but I’m unsure if it would work correctly.
Love your content, glad you are making content again! I started watching so many other woodworking videos after I discovered your channel a couple years back, in fact I was watching one the otherday and thats what made me comeback to look for you! Keep up the great work.
A slightly rounded piece of 5/4 deck board, a couple of 2X4's for cleats and a stick of 2X2, you can make a homemade bull float too. No, it's not professional and no, it will not last forever if you use it commercially. But for a homeowner, it will work great and last a long time. And as long as it is firm enough to not cause any damage (craters) when it's raining, it will actually help cure your concrete a little better too.
You also might want to learn about the swiss fire (lighting it up from a small fire on top of a pile of wood, to increase the temperature before the wood touches fire)( less smoke) I love the idea of a smokefree fire pit.
Utilizing Green Target Plate and Green Enhanced Glasses. A green target plate generally laying with a reflective film, which can increase the visibility of the green laser beam. Green-enhanced glasses can also help you see the green beam more easily.
Abundance who has that issue of a cheap roller continually sliding off our even just shifting, just wrap an elastic around each end! I'm not a pro by any means, but it worked for me.
Love the Purple Fire background music as well. Good info for me as this is something my buddy is doing now and will be doing in the upcoming days. Thank you for the great video
you mentioned a cuople times about being harder with the pit. If were going to follow along and build this (which i plan on ). Pouring a round slab which is sloped then just pouring on top might be the easiest way ?
Hey Hax - Great job. The whole thing turned out really nicely. Thanks to Kim for her work behind the camera. Loved the cameo on the tractor by your son. He looks just like you. Thumbs up. Peace.
I buit a 12foot tall pergola in the yard that was 300SqFt lazer level came in handy many times. but if you wanna use it outside you got to plan for it and start using it at dusk as the sun is just starting to set
Been stewing about building a firepit with a huge pile of firebrick I aquired. That will be my Sept '24 project... once my chicken coop is finished by Labor Day! 🤞 (Yeah, you got me hooked with the coop videos!) Hurry up on that outdoor kitchen, Haxman! The weather turns pretty fast here in central NYS once October arrives.
You could just use a long 2 x 4 and the sun to cast a straight line shadow onto wherever you want your straight line to be and paint over the shadow line. Just wait till around noon when the sun is right above you, or whenever it seems the most manageable.
🔥I released an album of music you can listen to free! Let me know what you think! 👉 open.spotify.com/artist/1VOVKFOF2gmaiZysdVug2I?si=HUEvBHVzSDKfoayWUNO4vQ
I just found your channel. I am excited. Have you ever worked with dirt-crete? For grins and giggles you should make a project.
8:45 You HAVE TO edge it, because these edges will break if you don't. Contrete (at least the normal one) is very weak if it's too thin, like on the very edge of the corners. So rounding them off makes it less likely to snatch something on it and makes for a thicker edge (looking from all sides and in all directions).
A slab this thin and put outside is also quite likely to break if it freezes, (you should be deep enough with the concrete to stay below the frostline), but since I don't know where you live and if you have cold enough winters to worry about frost; I'll give you a pass on that one. But maybe mention this kind of thing for the viewers in the future? :)
Hey man I’m a Cement Mason and love your videos. I have one tip for when you are setting your forms and leveling them. You can attach your boards to the stakes first then just pound them down gently until they are level it really makes it easier especially doing big jobs like we do commercially. Well done 👍🏼
I have a probably dumb question but I want to make sure I understand it. Are you saying that when you nail the stakes to the form boards first, it allows you to more easily drive the forms into the ground and makes it easier to level?
Thanks.
I'm curious about this too, my skillset is medical not industrial, so I'm having trouble visualizing what he's describing. @tlojewelrylove
Stakes have holes in them so you can nail it into the board. Then you can pull or pound the stake in with the level on tip of the 2x4 to get it level. I believe that is what he is explaining.
@@tlojewelrylove yes, if the board is already attached to the stake, if the stake goes down, the board also goes down. to be honest there are much easier ways to do all aspects of the forming that are not shown in this video, setting forms is very easy. the video doesnt really do it wrong necessarily, but he did waste a lot of time doing useless things, and you dont need to buy whatever weird flex forms he used cause those are prob hella expensive for something you can do very easily without it
@@jimjam4210 pretty much, except most stakes dont have holes pre drilled unless you spent extra money on steel stakes, which you really dont need. a simple wooden stake from homedepot is like $5 for a whole pack and works just as good (unless you are beating them all day every day, then they will just break, and then i would absolutely agree the steel ones would be better)
Bender board is just 1/4 MDF cut into strips, easy enough to make your own. if you make two layers and laminate with glue they will be rigid and require less staking. I also highly recommend doing integral stain over a wash, it just holds up better -- look for "iron oxide (red/black/yellow)."
Believe it or not, the rain probably helped your slab. Adding water on top during curing helps keep the concrete from drying out and cracking as it shrinks.
Nice firepit.
I’ve been building all of my life and I’m 70.
I’ve never heard of fiberglass rebar.
WoW !
Something new.
And you’re doing a great job.
Good work !👍
Same here. 50 years in the trades.
it's brand new!!!
Fast-forward 40 years, and all the sudden figerglass rebar will be the asbestos of the concrete world.
I dont think id want to use it.. cool tho. When I do my rebar I mig weld the stuff together lol.. wont like messing with that wire tie method.. so steel for the win.
It's a pretty new product. Apparently, it's better because it will never rust away like the steel ones would. They like to market it as lighter, but I'm not sure why that's considered a selling point when the steel ones don't weigh that much (unless you're carrying them up flights of stairs or something). The issue is you can't bend them and cutting them releases fiber dust (though they say they have a tool to cut them that doesn't make dust).
I'm not even interested in the project but watched from start to finish. Kudos for mentioning the names of all the tools, lots of "instruction guys" leave huge gaps in their delivery. I cussed for you when the roller hit the concrete.
I have a level similar to that and I have installed my leach field, my septic tank and poured many concrete footings for solar installs using it. The trick is to get there at Dusk or Right before first light, then marking out what needs to be marked. That tool has saved me a lot of money.
I Really enjoy your content and I find your editing and comments hilarious in a good way. Keep it up man
Thanks!
As a flooring, contractor, and a tile setter by trade, if you need a good laser level that reads in daylight spend the money and get the green ones.
I had a home siding project. All fired up to use the laser. Middle of summer. So bright could not see. Then I found a pair of glasses on Amazon. Being a red laser, the red glasses absolutely made a huge difference. Bosch made them. They were harder to find and Noone had them local. Absolute must for outdoor daylight operations
Thanks for watching! You can feed a HAXMAN child by purchasing a shirt at www.thehaxman.com.
What part of the country are you in. Im trying to gauge if some of your methods will work where I live. Hard to tell with the trees. Palmetto, Aust pines etc
why such a small pit also raised pits like that dont do the job its better to have it in the ground at least that way your feet will be warm.
Does anyone know where I can get an extra long bolt for my timber saw attachment? All the stores are sold out.😅
Why is nobody talking about Sasquatch chilling on tractor😂
A tip on using a stamp roller for stamped concrete. Use the Roller in one direction one time. Its not like painting a wall. Smooth out when ready use roller one time in one direction, and lift off at end of roll. Roll one time semi over lapping the previous roll.
I absolutely love your sense of humor. Your jokes always hit for me. Not only that, I love your family!
Thank you so much!
I really enjoy watching your tutorial videos. I love that you share your knowledge, along with the things that don’t work. Some people clean up all the videos and only show a really quick run through and a finished product and they don’t show the pitfalls of the project. This is what makes you stand out for me because a lot of the projects you’re currently doing are things that we would like to do in the future. Thank you for taking the time to teach others on RUclips. 😊
@@sherylyoung101 Thank you Sheryl! I appreciate that very much.
Your videos are not only informative, they are hilarious. Thanks for the free entertainment and education.
I am glad I ain’t the only one making sure those looking down from a plane can see everything is squared and even. My kids think I am crazy.
😄
I know........that is so important! 😄
I find it easier to screw up intentionally, abstract if you will.
"why do you edge it?" isn't just to look good. It's also so that the curved corner doesn't chip as easily if something catches that edge. It's also just that much safer if you fall and hit it.
I LOVE that you post the successes but also the screwups. It is super encouraging and helps keep me encouraged!
Thanks for the info. I will borrow some of your ideas. I poured some steps with dirt-crete. Use cement instead of concrete and mix local soil as your aggregate. No stain needed, no leveling. Instead of smoothing it and then using a pattern roller, just use a vibrator and walk away. Looks exactly like what you made with less effort and cost.
You are a man after my own heart, if you can do it yourself that's the way to go 🤩👌I have made footstools from electrical cable spools, my own cushions and bed pillows from the stuffing from two large leather sofas I used to have, canned food, covered my bed headboard, made curtains and hundreds of items of clothes I even like to propagate my own plants from other people's plants. It's not that I am frugal I just love doing it, I wish I had found your channel earlier.😉
Looks great!
The main reason to edge is to have a rounded corner. A sharp corner easily chips and breaks while a round corner is stronger (and helps to hide any imperfections on the edge).
That roller coming off would drive me crazy. I'd be looking at putting a screw into it...
Thanks!
Or just a few turns of tape to make the roller fatter.
I'd like a price breakdown on this. Quickret, forms, mold release, re bar, acetone, pigment, base material, rental cost, and what ever I'm forgetting. $400 sounds awfully conservative.
On those roller stamps...
I found using masking tape at the end of the roller kept it on fine
and
Use your concrete mixing tray with a few inches of water in it and make sure the roller is really wet for each roll and you can apply the stamp earlier and it comes out great
Learn to use a tarp or piece of plastic to mix your concrete. Spread out a 6x8 tarp, bodyslam a bag of concrete in the middle pull out what's left of the paper bag and hold all 4 corners up and add water. Then take 2 corners in each hand and roll it back and forth on the ground until mixed. It works twice as well with 2 people. An "X" pattern works best. In other words your left hand then their left hand. Your right hand, their right hand. You're welcome!
This is how I do it too. Fast as hell!
@@thomasjameson5761 when we used to build decks in Maryland and it was perfect for 2 men. Mix it up and use the tarp to carry and pour. I learned from a friend who learned it from local lineman. I've heard it's how WW2 cooks mixed large amounts of ingredients for the troops.
Brilliant thanks for the tip. Never heard that one before
I’ve never heard of this…thank you!
Wow! What a Pro !
For the Texture Roller, to help keep it on, maybe put duct tape on your frame roller to get snug fit when you put the actual roller on.
Just as I was looking for something to watch & boom Haxman to the rescue 👌🏼
👊
Same here.
The reasoning for choosing the fiberglass rebar is spot on 😂😂😂. Always love these videos.
Thank you!
They cut like buttah, too!
About an hour before this video came out, I checked your channel to make sure I didn’t miss any videos. Great project, thank you for sharing!!!
I appreciate that! Thanks!
I’m a simple man. I see a Haxman video. I click like.
How is it that Haxman isn’t at 1 million subs yet? Y’all share, let’s get him there!
Thanks brother!
You rock, not trying to pour too much. Edger is always a trick, but it seals the edge so it won’t Spauld. Turn edger the other way to scrape the edge when pouring the next phase. Great tool. Good job.
Thanks brother!
A tip for your Rebar which you probably already know.
When you place your Rebar, you want to make sure that it's "Floating" in the middle of your concrete. If any piece of the rebar touches anything that isn't concrete, it invites moisture, rust, expansion, ect. I don't know how much of an issue it is with fiberglass rebar but you have to be careful with the normal stuff.
My father built houses his entire life and his brother was a mason. I helped pour concrete in our entire backyard because his work truck would sink into the ground because he carried do much materials for the jobs. The separating stringers and perimeter forms were coated with motor oil so the concrete wouldn't stick and they could be used over and over. No mold release used EVER
Don’t be so hard on yourself, buddy. You did good. I think it came out very very nice. Good job y’all.
I use the lasers at dusk / dawn, that makes them much more visible. You could also use green glasses to at least see them a little easier. Red lasers are even worse outdoors. Apart from that, great project and thanks for sharing.
"Nothing says summer like pink." I hit subscribe as soon as I heard that and realized humor and silliness are part of this channel. 🤣😂
Me too!!!!
I loved that! 🤣😂🤣
He has a video on making a huge concrete rock for the garden & he tells us about his pet rocks, it's hilarious 😂
@@onelittledropintheocean I'll have to check that out! Thank you 🙂
@@onelittledropintheocean Yes, I love watching his informative videos and all the while he makes me smile too.
While I have no plans to do any concrete work I really enjoyed your video. You’ve got a good sense of humor and beautiful arms!
You make hard work, very hard work, look easy. Nice video.
Thank you so much! I didn't show the 10 gallons of water I had to drink while filming this. 😂
@@HAXMAN Ha, yep. I saw the sweat dripping off your nose. Here in Phoenix, it might not be as humid, but it's hotter than a two-peckered goat in tight jeans. And I am dumb enough to do projects during summer. So yeah, I understand what it's like to drink 10 gallons of water and miraculously never have to pee. Great job as always, sir!
I love it that you work as a team. I do mosaics. If you ever want to try it, put a few mosaics on the fire pit or the floor.
This vid has like 30 million views in 24 hours, so here is a 100 grand tip = used motoroil for mold release. Until next time, from toxic wastelands of eastern Europe, this is Tom the Builder, signing out
Man, you have me fiending to do this... I am nearly done with the heavy lifting on my garden and I can move into other projects. I promised my girls I would build them a new playset this year but papa wants a fire pit...they can play on that right? I'll paint it pink they'll never know.
Food first, then fun. 😄 My daughter Cameron wants a rock wall. I don't know if I can squeeze that in. 😄 Thanks Jacob!
The sasquatch was a really nice touch, lol! 🤣
I came looking for this comment. They work for Jack Links ? Or what.
Did you pull your pink rebar up when placing the cement? It should be half way up the cement.
Just having the bubble touch may work, but it is easier to just do the math. Find level and then measure down 1/4" for every foot of distance. Since you said 65" inches, you should drop 1 3/8" inches from level. Especially when doing stamped concrete which will have spots that capture the water.
i'm not a crete guy, but i've heard steel rebar reacts with concrete and over years/decades swells as it corrodes, causing cracks and sometimes even popping out chunks. i doubt fiber bar has the same problem, so good choice.
Wow. Gorgeous. Loved this. All so helpful as we look to redo our backyard. I especially like the finish and the stain. Had no idea how that look was ever achieved. Bravo.
looks good man! only problem i have with it is you didnt use any seperation against the fire pit and the slab. i personally would have put buffalo board around the base of the fire pit as an expansion joint because that will eventually heave a bit with the ground . other than that pretty sweet build
I put up an easy up to finish off a small section of concrete at my house to keep the rain off. Worked well.
Screen it in like a gazebo and it would be a blessing to sit in there regardless of the temps or bugs... Make sure you have some type roof vent so when you have a fire in the center pit. Thumbs Up!
Nice work! I believe optimally you would raise your rebar about an inch off the ground to get in the middle of the slab, but given that this isn't going to be exceedingly weight-bearing, you will likely be OK. You can buy plastic 'chairs' to put under or just do something with a tiny pieces of wood
The curved corners make a really nice finishing touch! Must have been worth the extra trouble (y) Well done!
Use metal key joint for projects like this. It stays in. Also you don’t need rebar for a patio. You could add fiberglass strands to the mix or just get 5000 psi mix.
Some companies make reflective markers for outdoor/indoor laser use but you can use retroflective tape, or even just the strips on a safety vest to see that laser outside, hope that helps in the future!
Thanks!
This is way more work than I can personally do, but what a beautiful job you did! And a very educational video!
Another great video! Love your projects.
For future projects that need a laser line outside, they make glasses that are designed to help you see the specific color laser you're using. Normally about $15-20 per pair.
You do great work arounds for problems you run into, but this will help make it easier for your next project.
Great job.
Thanks for the tip!
I needed a 10' x 10' pad. When I did the math on both quikcrete and pavers. The quikcrete was 42 80lb bags at $5.98 a bag which was about $252. I needed about 110 (wastage included) 12"x12" pavers at $1.78 a paver, which is $195. So pavers were cheaper. And they're easier IMO, to install than pouring concrete. I ended up with a bigger pad because I didn't trim any of the pavers. So concrete is not always cheaper. Plus, many pads need rebar which adds to the cost.
The plants in between the quarter pieces of the pad is such a neat idea!
So awesome. I miss my acreage sometimes, expecially when it comes to space to do things like this. I have one in the city, but I dont have room to build an area to leave chairs all the time, My old one was this big, but I did wood border with landscaping tiles and filled it all with pea gravel. 100% not as fancy as this, but was a lot cheaper and faster
I'd like to build a firepit like this - but I have heard the concrete (or whatever material, rock, brick, etc) exterior ends up blocking a ton of the heat from radiating out to the people around the fire - so its a great smokeless fire but everyone sitting around it is cold on chilly nights. Perhaps you would be better of leaving the steel expose to radiate more heat out. I was also thinking of going to a landscape brick exterior but stacked with openings to let close to 50% of the steel exposed - love to get your feedback on that before I go thru the process! thx!
For precise measurements of a radius use a rope or even an extension cord. Lay around your circle then mark both ends where they meet with a line. Then stretch it out measure the distance and divide according to how many points you want and mark those distances. Then lay back around your circle and transfer the marks to dirt.
Great video sir. We all love how you explain all the good, bad, and learning moments in your videos. Almost never does a job go perfect, and it's good to see that in action. As far as edging difficulty, I suggest investing in a large heavier pro style edger as they make it easier on the wrists to get a smooth finish. Keep it up.
I watched your videos a few years back I lost ya because I didn’t suscribe. But love the new fire pit and that’s how I found you again lol lessons learned
Thanks!
That texture roller idea will be used soon. Thanks, man. Super cool pit!
I enjoy your humor and confessions of what you don't know. For things that you need, I would add that considering the frequency of rain, you may also need a pavilion.
Try some creeping speedwell in the crevasses between the pavers. It's sturdy, looks nice, and won't grow UP at all. You gotta water it, of course.
A thought for keeping the stamp roller from falling off. Since it's not the same length as the tool you have room to drill a hole at the end of the tool and put a pin (bolt & nut or something similar) in it to keep it from sliding out
A HAXMAN DROP ON A WEDNESDAY!? YES SIR IM HERE FOR IT
I'm trying to pick up the pace. Thanks!
I saved both your smokeless fire pit videos and now I see this! Ideas upon ideas and you make it look like I could do this too!
Go for it!
back drag your edger along form first. Hold it like at a 15 deg. and just back drag along form will help you out a bunch
A follow up video on this after a few seasons would be nice. I would like to see if it settles and stays nice and flat or if they get all uneven over time. It seems like being only 2 and a half thick or so would make them so light that they will shift around a lot.
I’m wanting to do this fire pit idea. Do you believe the air intakes would draw proper air if you’d had them lower and ran all the way out to the edge of your pad? This would keep the intakes hidden but I’m unsure if it would work correctly.
Love your content, glad you are making content again! I started watching so many other woodworking videos after I discovered your channel a couple years back, in fact I was watching one the otherday and thats what made me comeback to look for you! Keep up the great work.
Awesome, thank you!
I love your casual everyday attitude. Definitely entertaining while learning something. Keep-em coming!
A slightly rounded piece of 5/4 deck board, a couple of 2X4's for cleats and a stick of 2X2, you can make a homemade bull float too. No, it's not professional and no, it will not last forever if you use it commercially. But for a homeowner, it will work great and last a long time. And as long as it is firm enough to not cause any damage (craters) when it's raining, it will actually help cure your concrete a little better too.
You also might want to learn about the swiss fire (lighting it up from a small fire on top of a pile of wood, to increase the temperature before the wood touches fire)( less smoke) I love the idea of a smokefree fire pit.
As usual, informative and entertaining. Thanks for being you. (your family looks like amazing fun)
You are the man! Well done sir! I’m very impressed by your work!
I helped build a sandy in ground firepit once. Always wanted one in my own yard ever since.
Eres un genio que realizas lo que se me ocurrió una vez, pero no sabía como realizar.
Mis respetos.
¡Muchas gracias!
@@HAXMAN eres mi sensei, mi Maestro 👌💪👏👏👏🙌
Love it! Just an idea, could have still pulled a straight line at the height of the firepit and plumbed it down to the ground
So awesome to see you back at it!
SQUATCH! 😂
Thanks!
So glad I came across this channel. Great sense of humor and honest. I'm subscribing for sure. Thanks for the content.
Thanks for all your hard work!
I'm tired now. Going to take a nap ..
Great job! 👍😁
Enjoy that your two work together! Refreshing...
Found same issue with laser level.
But i waited til dusk and it worked a treat
Utilizing Green Target Plate and Green Enhanced Glasses. A green target plate generally laying with a reflective film, which can increase the visibility of the green laser beam. Green-enhanced glasses can also help you see the green beam more easily.
I need a vacation. I could have sworn I saw a Sasquatch on your tractor at one point.
Nice job.
Looks like he only appears to some people. I saw him too. 😂
Abundance who has that issue of a cheap roller continually sliding off our even just shifting, just wrap an elastic around each end!
I'm not a pro by any means, but it worked for me.
I love the bubble on the level touching one line to create an outward runoff. I like your channel, btw.
Love the Purple Fire background music as well. Good info for me as this is something my buddy is doing now and will be doing in the upcoming days. Thank you for the great video
“What an absolute waste of moneeeeeeeey”😂 only in the HAXMAN channel.. love it cheers from Australia 🇦🇺
Looks great! I think it look good with some gravel laid out around it also
I like that your dogs are helping
Awesome job I'm a new subscriber I watched the fence now I'm this far in and hooked
Me 2!!
A 8-ft long piece of clear plastic tube about an inch round full of water works really good for a level doing projects like this
Or use a level
you mentioned a cuople times about being harder with the pit. If were going to follow along and build this (which i plan on ). Pouring a round slab which is sloped then just pouring on top might be the easiest way ?
Your property must be beautiful after all the work you have completed. Would love a tour sometime. Love your videos.
Hey Hax - Great job. The whole thing turned out really nicely. Thanks to Kim for her work behind the camera. Loved the cameo on the tractor by your son. He looks just like you. Thumbs up. Peace.
Thanks Chuck!
Key to edging is to edge it once right after your pour concrete to get stones back....... Then it makes it much easier when its time to final edge it.
I buit a 12foot tall pergola in the yard that was 300SqFt lazer level came in handy many times. but if you wanna use it outside you got to plan for it and start using it at dusk as the sun is just starting to set
I could see an open top gazebo that circles that firepit. You could even have a circle in the center for the firepit.
That’s what Kim wants me to build. 😄
Awesome content. Perfect delivery and style, I love this channel!
Awesome job. Your firepit patio turned out really nice ❤
I just love your videos and your sense of humor. Keep up the good work.
Been stewing about building a firepit with a huge pile of firebrick I aquired. That will be my Sept '24 project... once my chicken coop is finished by Labor Day! 🤞 (Yeah, you got me hooked with the coop videos!)
Hurry up on that outdoor kitchen, Haxman! The weather turns pretty fast here in central NYS once October arrives.
You could just use a long 2 x 4 and the sun to cast a straight line shadow onto wherever you want your straight line to be and paint over the shadow line. Just wait till around noon when the sun is right above you, or whenever it seems the most manageable.