How To Repair Concrete And Save Money
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- Опубликовано: 19 май 2024
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I needed to replace a large chunk of concrete that had broken off my driveway. This is a common issue for most homeowners on driveways and sidewalks but doesn't have to cost you $100's to repair. I will walk you through the complete DIY repair process which you will be able to apply to your own situation, ensuring great results.
Chapter
0:00 My Concrete Driveway Damage
0:30 How To Remove a Broken Large Chunk Of Concrete
0:57 Establishing A Solid Base Under Concrete Pad
1:29 Why My Concrete Failed
2:41 Installing #4 Rerod Into Existing Concrete Pad
3:16 Laying Down Gravel For A Base Under New Slab
3:34 Calculating The Amount Of Concrete Needed For A Repair
5:26 Concrete Repair Product And Supplies Needed
7:40 Mixing Quickcrete 5000 psi Concrete
8:04 Laying In New Concrete and Floating
9:01 Making An Edge In A Concrete Repair
9:28 Disposing Of Old Concrete
9:47 How To Cure Concrete and End Results
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Хобби
@0:45: Busting up the old concrete on top of good concrete is a great way to widen the repair area.
My first thought too.
In my next video I'll show you how to repair a concrete driveway that's been hit with a sledgehammer.
@@bertharius9518 love it!
what you missed was him placing the large piece on the edge of a small piece so the sledge gave a bending motion and cracked the large piece easily.
unbelievable! I would have fired him on the spot, lol.
I'd recommend moving the pieces to the grass before you go Donkey Kong smashing up the concrete piece. That way you don't break more of your concrete.
The concrete on the left side is 4 inches thick. It would have taken a lot of force to bust that up with 3 swings of a sledge hammer - unless you are Thor, that is. 😊
@@gwarlow Still not worth the risk. 2 seconds to move the pieces into the grass and worries over.
Exactly
Donkey Kong 😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂
Replaced a 4x4 walkway section for client and told them no foot traffic for 24 hours so they would maybe wait 12 hours. They called me 4 hours latter furious that the faulty concrete had 4 long gouges in it. They assured me nobody stepped on the slab when they rolled an upright baby grand piano over it. There stupidity left me speechless.
Они могли толкать рояль досками или тащить его за верёвку😂😂😂😂
Besides being thin, the concrete probably broke because of the pointed triangle shape.
👍 No need to match the already marginally thin original… I’d go for 5-6" pad or better, a 4" with extra depth of well compacted gravel base.
At least should cut a break groove across the triangle as a continuation of the touching point groove.
I would have cut it he broken edge to make it a clean edge, and then poured that as its own triangle so it’s not a weak point sticking out, but its own strong slab with a good base under it.
Lift broken piece, compact and level off. Reset old concrete and fill joint with sealant. Done.
I thought the same thing.
May as well. It still looks like a broken piece that’s been lifted anyway.
Agreed, when I saw it lift, I was like: Nice! A solid piece! Then the top broke when it was flipped and I realized it was going to be a repour. I was hoping for repack and seal.
Same color match too.
You ruined it 😂
Where's the "after"?
Good job pinning the patch! The only other thing i might have done is use a diamond blade either in your grinder or circular saw and make that jagged edge into a straight line. A little extra work but worth it for aesthetics in my opinion .
Good point! A bit more work and money and it would have looked nicer, though I guess he did not want to do that.
Your idea is better than the entire video.
Please add 1 more minute with the final results...
I do have some suggestions first dog hair aka fiberglass reinforcement strands help a thin slab out even somw flexibility. You can buy it for 10 to 20 a bag on azon. Something we do for bases that are not prepared well is put down a bag or two of vinyl patch repair for concrete/blacktop it gives a solid base for a thin slab to sit on.
I appreciate the content and keep it coming 👍
Thanks for the feedback 🙌
You can also buy readymix bags with it in there. the "crack resistant" stuff has fiber mesh in there.
Fibermesh does not add tensile strength so you’ll still need the same thickness as without the fiber. The only purpose of fiber is to help control shrinkage cracking during initial cure
I would compact the base first, using a hand compactor or a 4x4. Then add 5/8 minus compactable gravel and compact that. Your concrete mix was a little wet. Drier would be stronger. Use rod to work the concrete into the voids. Finally I would use an old hacksaw to cut the joint all the way down on the curved side.
Lack of working the concrete to eliminate the voids is for sure a problem. A nice straight line where the previous break was with a joint would help with the crack that is sure to occur at some point in the future. Mix was wet as you noted. Hard to beat having a good solid base when pouring concrete.
Looks like it came out well. Would love to see the dry finished project.
me too, i would of like to see it dried & finished
I suspect it wasn't shown becasue it was a totally different color.
I recommend that you wear protective knee pads on your knees. I worked like this and my knees hurt so much. I definitely don't work without knee pads anymore. It was a very useful video, thank you.
All the math teachers thank you for giving us a real world example
The math is "The host says he's going to drive on it in an hour, and later says it will be at least three days. How many minutes until he can drive on it?"
@@craash420I caught that too
The real easy math is that there are 2 right triangles virtually identical. If you can visualize flipping one over on the other, it makes a rectangle. Use the long side of the right angle and the longer of the 2 short sides of the right angle. Multiply for area, then multiply the depth for volume.
Thank you Scott! I have a repair to do on my driveway, and this will give me the confidence! Even if it doesn't come out perfect, it will be better than it looks now.
You got this!
The best bonding agent is portland cement. You can just mix a paste of cement and water and paint it onto the concrete to be bonded.
Also, I would have prodded the concrete at the bond, in order to remove trapped air and form a more consistent bond.
Philip, I would mix it much dryer than shown here. Too much water weakens the concrete and the same problem will come back quickly
@@CharlotteGlamourshould be drier
I don't reply much to videos. But I would NEVER brake up concrete on top of good concrete. Put it on the grass. You could've had a lot more to fix than just the small piece. I know you must mean well here but????
I cringed when he did that too!! 😬
I as well!!
Fair point
Not really lol
Those arms didn't look like they have too much power. So it's probably okay.
(LOL, JK. Great channel.)
Good video Scott. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. These videos give people like me the confidence to improve our homes!
Thanks for the feedback, helping homeowners save time and money is what we are all about 🙌
Cut the cracked edge to make it look even cleaner
I would use the Quickrete that contains the fiberglass fibers rather than the 5000 psi. If you are going to wet it once a day, cover it with 3 mil plastic, or else it just dries out in a few minutes.
Nice video. A couple of things though. It would have been better to epoxy the rebar into the other slab. This method weakened it where the glue would have filled the void keeping it strong. Also the rebar now has an air gap where it will rust and expand. Over time that will break the slab. Concrete/epoxy needs to be directly on the rebar to keep it from rusting.
The other thing is the original finish was a washed finish. When it was pretty firmly set, you take a hose and run water over it to wash the cemet off the surface. How aggressive you go, depends on how set it is. Start with a slow trickle and watch how the surface sand gets exposed. If it is firmer and not coming off, turn up the pressure and spray it. If the cement powder makes light colored marks (places where it resettles) the next day, pressure wash the light color off.
Adding a bit of sand and cement powder reduces the strength slightly, but makes finishing these bag mixes so much easier. If you are doing a larger slab, pouring the bottom two or three inches as unmodified mix, and then the top bit with more and makes things much easier while not compromising strength significantly. This all in the same pour. It takes a while to mix all the bags so the bottom section usually sets up a bit by the time you get to the top layer, but that is OK as long as they aren't more than 30min or so apart.
Definitely epoxy the rebar.
How about no rebar and move on..
@@1941392if repeat failure is the goal then definitely.
good job. you can stabilize clay by thoroughly mixing top few inches with hydrated lime. that's what they do for roads etc. rod ties should have been set in suitable high bond adhesive. pedantic, i know, but that's where rust will start otherwise.
Can you show a picture of what this looks like after it has been curing for 28 days? I want to see the color of the new concrete next to the old slab.
concrete color will never match unless you use pigment! Even if you pour a driveway on two separate days the color will change due from different batches of sand. I was a cement finisher for 25 yrs !
While I get your point that you want it to match as much as possible, I found that new concrete will darken significantly over a year or two when it accumulates grime and dirt. I had this happen with a retaining wall I had to add some height on (cement blocks). Looked horrible right away, a year or two later, blends pretty damn close.
Oh my God.. well done great idea with the metal bars.
A1 job.. especially using rods..
I woulda sumugged up the bonding surfaces first with some wet mix to really get a primed adhesion
Right to the point with excellent video and suggestions. Nicely done!
Wow. I wish I had a fast forward mode. Good job.
Good video! Would have been good to see how you finished it off/achieved the rough finish.
anxious to the results video, but thanks for making this as i have a similar repair to make
For calculating the area of a triangle, no need to split it into two right triangles, just base times height divided by two ( [18+17] * 27 / 2 = 472.5 sq in ) and convert to square feet by dividing by 144 ( 472.5 sq in * [ 1 ft / 12 in ] * [ 1 ft / 12 in ] = 3.28 sq ft ).
You just have to calculate the area of the triangle as Base X 1/2 Height. Example: 35 X 13.5 = 472.5 square inches. Then 472.5 divided by 144 = 3.28 Square Feet. Doctor Whitehead
You both just said the same thing.
I would have calculated a square 18 x 27 x thickness, then divide by 2
Concrete is a volume (cubical) measurement, not area !
@@mikemaj8467Why divide by 2 when you are going to then multiply by 4 for the pad thickness of 4 inches? Just multiply by 2 instead! :D
why not show the final result a few days later? how did the color match? is there a reason you didn't complete the point to line up with the existing slab?
"Pointy" concrete breaks.
Actually it came out very well matched. I think 3” for driveway is a bit thin. Well done 👍
Thanks!
Great video Scott ty! I'm still afraid to start my repairs of large cracks 😂 talk about procrastinating. Got supplies though.
One step at a time 😉
Thank you. I had this problem with a sidewalk. I lifted up the comcrete and placed a mixture of dirt and pea gravel underneath it. It worked fine. I might try your method on another area needing repair.
i raise my standards higher & higher every time when i realize how handy & innovative some men can truly be when they want that for themself!
Holy smokes, what a beautiful lawn...
You should consider getting a military E-tool, It is very versatile and would make a huge difference when removing soil versus a garden trowel and your hands. Also, you can buy sand and gravel in bulk from a masonry supply yard. usually, they charge by the shovel full.
GREAT video and thanks for sharing! You must be a math whiz to figure out those calculations for how much concrete you needed. Job looks really nice but I would have added one more rebar before pouring the concrete to give even more strength to the new pour. And yes, a sledge hammer is a MUST for breaking apart a large piece of concrete and I speak from experience on that. Cheers from New Mexico!
I love home improvement videos.
nice job. ❤ looks like the guys that poured that extension were the low bid $ ! Do you guarantee your concrete work? Yes, it is guaranteed to crack! 😂
I really like how thorough you are in explaining each step & why each are important. One little criticism…it is probably just your personality, but you talk kind of slowly. I can use the 2x speed to listen to your videos & not miss anything. Maybe I’m a fast listener?! 😅 But thanks, good job
Great, great job! I adore it.
Great video, thanks for the upload
I've been doing concrete, not full time, but done thousands of yards of it over the past 45 years or so. I would have dug another at LEAST 5-6" of dirt out, filled w 4-5" of stone & then allowing at LEAST a 5" concrete pour. I have an identical crack at the corner of my drive, & will pour at least 6", 1/2" rebar & gravel a must. I will also use some high strength concrete mix in my batch. And if you pour it thick enough, I would ALWAYS tie into the second slab as well. I would also suggest a small like 8" dia x 12" deep "pier" near the corner to act as a structural support. I do this on EVERY pour I do where there is heavy traffic. I will be doing this on my repair.
Okay GREAT. Thanks for the ADVICE. It WILL be used in GOOD time. CHEERS.
Good idea. However, you should screed and vibrate the form with your hammer drill or reciprocating saw first, and then after it dries a little come back mag float. Sponge or broom finish after even more drying after mag float. Doing any mag floating first seals the surface and traps water in the concrete guaranteeing a future crack.
correct information thank you
Great video and explanation!
Thank you!
There should have been a cut line on the little corner peice to begin with. Nice repair work 👌
Dowel the new pour into the existing 4" slab that was done properly, like the guys who added the faulty pad should have done. Also, DO NOT break/sledge the bad chunk on the nice concrete.
"Dowel the new pour into the existing 4" slab that was done properly, like the guys who added the faulty pad should have done."
But they did not do that. Which means the entire joint between the slabs is not connected. Which means each slab can move independently. Which means if you do connect the two slabs together at that small area and the slabs move, it will immediately start causing more cracks and undo the work he did to replace the broken off piece.
Doing it his way means each slab will still be able to move on its own without causing stress on the repair.
If you search you can find concrete Evaporation calculator, that calculate the evaporation based on your weather and location, so you would known if you need to spray water on the concrete, so it does not dry up to quickly
Great video, for you home gamers NEVER EVER break/sledge the old concrete chunks on the existing concrete, that is wrong in so many ways! Also the mix should have been much dryer, it will never be 5000psi with that much water in the mix.
Great video, very well done.
One thing you should have talked about, is the need to have the 90 angle edge out from the curved border, so you don't have a thin edge for the new pour
Hey Scott, great video as always. I am wondering if you can do a comparison video between Rapidset Concrete vs Quikrete. I've watched quite a few videos on each product and Quickrete just takes a long time to harden up and Rapidset is good for walking in one hour with having similar PSI ratings, both being good for vehicle traffic.
Great video and work you did.
Thank you!
Yeah, I'd like to see what it looked like after it dried. Do you have to paint the whole thing to make it look good again?
I hate white patches on old concrete. Where it is a triangle at an edge I have had perfect results by sliding it out, putting proper gravel base to build up and slide it back in. The hairline crack remaining is almost invisible, compared to the ugly new patch.
I agree with other's in the remarks.. It should've been COMPACTED BEFORE you put the reinforcement rods in. Tapping it with small sledge JUST MEANS IT WASN'T PACKED RIGHT AGAIN. With a good chance it will happen AGAIN. The broken edge should've been cut straight for a better bond. I've done concrete step repair and required a much dryer mix. On another note. depending on your township it may need to be inspected before and after the pour.. Also the finished ROUGHNESS should be REQUIRED.
If you wanted a movement along the curved edge, you should have simply attached a plastic sheet there (contractor's trash bag or something) along that surface, before pouring the concrete.
Wish you had tapped the wooden form with a hammer to vibrate some of the concrete next to the form to fill in any voids. Hopefully your mix was loose enough so it filled in by itself. Cheers.
Great feedback, thanks!
A reciprocating saw without a blade against the form works very well for this.
Great video, as always.
Know a person who built a 2-story house when pouring footer on a cold December morning he began laying block the next day and I told him you can't do that because of uncured or green concrete and it would cause a foundation collapse , he wouldn't listen and continued to stack block on fragile footer after about 6 months the whole backside of the house collapsed!
saw a straight line edge where the jagged break is for a cleaner look
Dig it down under both slabs, pour 6” of concrete. Moist the concrete and make a Portland paste to paint on concrete slabs and pour the concrete. I would also drill the other side. Don’t drive on it for two weeks. The bonding agent is good
You should have dug down 4 more inches so you can put more base in and tamp it down with a hand tamper or 4x4 post and to make the new concrete thicker. You did good drilling in and spiking rebar but should have done the old side too. The way you did it will probably crack and settle again. Probably at the ends of rebar where you drilled in.
Only thing I wanted to see the final pictures after you stripped the form and it was cured but otherwise I liked the video.
Excellent video!
Number one i would compact the aria because that was the problem in the first place
Epoxy the steel in place to stop corrosion
And poor the concrete the same thickness as the old section 6"
Dude, there is no way I am doing all that, but I would hire you anytime!
Excellent! Thanks...
thanks
Don't drive on it in 3 days wait for 7 days to reach 80 percent strength at 70 degrees F.
Thanks for the feedback!
During the cure, how often do you top it with some water? Or was the mix enough so that the concrete has in itself enough water. A what are u spraying over the top the initial time?
Thanks very practical video easily understood an aspects presented well.
He mentioned once a day, but you can't wet it too much. Keep it as wet as you can afford to do considering the water waste, your time and the cost of the water.
The word is "Trowel" and it rhymes with "Towel". Excellent job and video. Oh, side note. If I'm not mistaken, you don't need 2 right triangles. Just use the one and it's 1/2 the base times the height for the area and whatever thickness. Just sayin'.
So, what happened to driving over it within an hour to put it to the test...as stated within the first 30 seconds of the video? Was waiting to see that happen as I thought that would be quite a feat, indeed!
He’s an affiliate link shrill. This shit is so cringe. You see how he adds so much bullshit to everything and then hocks a tool
Good Job. 🙂
Saw cut the rugged edge of the old concrete to get a much better joint look?? Cut after drilling slightly deeper rebar holes.
Would it have been possible to cut a radius on the broken slab to match the adjoining piece? Just a thought...
The concrete likely developed a crack because the corner was wrapped around the curved corner of the original slab, which restrained it from shrinking, creating a stress concentration and ultimately a crack. Without reinforcing, that broken corner was then free to settle and widen the crack with load cycles and thermal cycles. The rebar in the patch is a good idea, but anchoring it with epoxy would have been best for long term strength. Of course, a patch connected to the unreinforced crappy concrete will never perform better than the crappy concrete, but that might be good enough.
Would have liked to see you used the old concrete slab that broke off put back in it’s place instead of pouring a new one
Great job!
Thanks!
It would be good if you cut the existing concrete straight so it has a clean cut and finish
I wouldn't be sledge hammering on my driveway, you really dont need adhesive, just wet the okd concrete. Id luke to see thw finished product. We fixed a few areas on our driveway when we purchased then used a resurfacing product so it all matched and looked brand new.
You could have taken that piece out, flipping it out onto the grass and not the clean concrete, and then tamping and compacting the dirt under where that piece sat. Then putting small wooden spacers that you make in on top of the compacted soil and setting the broken concrete piece in that spot (and on top of the spacers), making adjustments until it seats level with the other surrounding concrete. The form the outside edge like you did, mix up some 5000psi flowable grout with no aggregate (that you bought at HD or Lowes) and pour it in until it just covers the spacers. Then gently place that concrete piece in the spot and make adjustments until it's level with the other concrete slabs (you'll have some working time to do so). Next, take a small funnel with a puddy knife and gently pour the grout into the cracks between the pieces and smooth out the surface also you can use a wet sponge to remove any spillage onto the concrete pieces around the cracks. Then let it cure over night. The end results will be as tho you only filled in a crack in the concrete, but the rest of it would look original and not noticable.
Is anything you can use to help bond the new concrete with the old??
I've got a similar issue. I'm doing work at mother's. A friend built a patio cover over an existing slab for her years ago. I'm not sure there was sufficiently thick concrete to do that but I haven't got into it yet. I'm not being critical but I think not. What thickness should a pad be if supporting a 14x28, 4x4 supported, plywood and shingles cover? If I can't do it in a weekend I'm too old to fix this sh**. Geezer
Yes, compact first!
dat's supercool, thanks!👍🏻
You bet!
You may have heard this before:
There’s 2 types of concrete. Cracked concrete and concrete that hasn’t cracked yet. lol
I need to do some work on my driveway. Nice job.
😂
Looks really good! Thanks, very helpful.
Cover it with a gray or colored Insulated tarp or a couple layers of tarp.
The sun will dry it out too quickly.
great
FYI base x height / 2 is the right formula even if it's not a right triangle.
I didn't see the truck drive on the repair after an hour as promised
Used 5,000 psi concrete as opposed to the Rapid Set I originally planned. Rapid Set is great but decided it probably wasn’t a great choice for DIYers since it sets up so fast.
Wet it and put something over it to keep it from drying out.. it has to be damp to cure properly.
I converted the volume equation using Laplace transformation and simply took the limit of the integral. It took me 2 days but I finally got it and it saved me some material due to the curved shape on the left side which isn’t accurately modelled using the simplistic triangle method 🤓
awesome
It will reach 5000 psi if you have the correct water to cement ratio per the manufacturer mixing instructions. If you add too much water, you don’t get the strength.
You didn’t drive your truck over it within an hour, and didn’t show the finished product on how it looked when dry 😕
He rarely, if ever, shows true results unfortunately.
Mud Man, long retired. Great memories.😎👍
I would be concerened with more future damage due to the drilling the holes there by reducing the already thin slab. Also the rods will start to rust soon, expand and cause more failure. I think your best solution would've been to pull the piece, fix the base with good gravel, use a flexible caulk call it a day. Your fix will fail sooner then later and create a bigger problem.
With rapid set you just wet existing concrete to bond to each other plus you get 9000 psi