The content is great, keep going, refine what you need with the production. I love how it's just negative comments are repeated even though you have clearly addressed it. And to be honest it's not that bad. "Lighten up Francis!"
This is great, how you showed your method of locating the post positions, warned newbies about how easy it is to accidentally shift the holes, used a drawing to show how important alignment is! Thank you!
The best set of directions on the web award for building a deck. That should be a thing on YOuTube. "Best Directions for...", you know, brain surgery, small engine repair, decks, etc. Endless categories for direction awards. In any case, your video is the winner. Thanks for the links to the practical resources and professional & simple set of directions. You made the complex simple and understandable. No small feat. I shall now approach my task with confidence and certainty. Excelsior! lol Great stuff - really. Now, where to find me some people to do all that hole digging. Hmmm 🤔
Trick I came up with years ago when having to dig post holes in an area with lots of rock, is to just use an old shop vac and a digging bar. You just loosen the soil using the digging bar and use the shop vac to suck up all the loose soil and getting on your hands and knees to actually reach in and pull the rocks out by hand. This way is much easier on the arms and body and can keep the holes tight. This works for any type of soil, but is great in areas an auger just cant work for you due to rock. Highly suggest trying this trick. I hope it helps.
Great video. I’m ready to start my deck and was looking for some info around the foundation. Like the idea of having the concrete above the ground level.
38 inch deep footings? Man that seems deep. Here in the Southeastern US we go 16 inches in my zone but I usually go 20 inches. It makes the inspectors happy from the beginning and makes the final a breeze. Nice video! Keep up the great content.
@@pmaint1 ouch that does suck! I watch Perkins Builder Brothers and their frost line is 12". LoL Can you imagine how much cheaper and easier it would be just for example to do deck footings and Sonotubes and only go down 12" vs. 60"?
Thank you for the compliment. You should jump on the bandwaggon and record yourself on some of your jobs. Some of the best carpenters on TV and RUclips have come from Canada.
Where you at location wise where it’s 103 degrees F, you get “a lot of snow” and code only requires 36” deep footers. Here in Michigan we are 42” deep footers
I’m in the Northern Utah area. We typically get a lot of snow due to the mountains, but that week I recorded this we had a weird heat wave. We usually only get a handful of days in triple digits. My city provided me the depth requirement for the footer.
Mag troweling the concrete is for more than just looks. It does bring that slurry up and it’s also going to remove those pits in the surface where water WILL accumulate and freeze. When it cracks, it will crack in ways you don’t want it to.
Yeah, I have a lot to improve on my concrete skills. At the end of this job I relized I should have just spent the $20 to get the mag trowel. Thank you for the advice and for watching.
Yes, and yes. This all depends on your city. It took me a couple months to get the permit. There is a lot of building going on in my city so they are overwhelmed. They had to come out for three inspections: 1) inspect your footings before concrete. 2) inspect framing. 3) Final inspection. They only needed a couple days notice for this.
so when that sono tube breaks down youll have a gap around your tube. usually builders only use the tube at ground level and below ground level is just the hole for the concrete.
My local building inspectors will not accept that practice. We have aggressive freeze and thaw cycles in the spring and fall. The rough walls of the concrete without a tube would allow more ratcheting of the footer. At least that’s the rationale of my local inspectors.
Ok im building an 18x24 pavilion with forms like those why would i put the forms under the center part of the string line where they cross if my post would sit on the inside of the string line wouldnt that cause the post to sit on the edge of the forms or am i mistaken or should i mark the spot where my post will sit then dig holes for forms so they are centered where my post are sorry havent done alot of form building for post
Seems like a small bit of steel anchored in the concrete to attach to. I would think that could be broken free from the concrete over time. Wouldnt it be better to be attached to the rebar shoved down deeper?
The J-bolt is pretty standard for this application and is 12 inches long. If it comes out and breaks appart, this would tell me the concrete lost its integirty and the whole footer would probably need replaced.
I appologise. I took some bad editing advice on these deck videos. Thank you for lett me know. Its comments like this that help my editing journey, and provide better quality videos for everyone.
You didn’t do a vapor barrier under the deck? Why didn’t you wet down your tube before adding Crete ? Being that dry it causes Crete to dry uneven and can break. Lastly for those watching, drill your holes in the rain if your ground is that hard n dry. Start the holes then wait for a rainy day..... ole boy in Texas showed me that. And no, not pouring rain but something more than a sprinkle
A vapor barier isnt needed for this application, as its 100% open to outside air. If I sealed off the sides of my deck it would be a different story. I live in a high altitude desert where we are lucky to get any humidity. As for the SONO Tubes, they are coated in wax on the inside. Wetting them down would just cause puddles at the bottom.
Hi, getting gazebo built and builder put it on piers 4 feet into ground - frost line. A couple of posts are not centered on sonotube, corner of bracket is off on the edge of the sonotube. Building inspector cleared the sonotube and likely will ok the building. Happy with overall results, looks great except worried about those two posts not fully on sonotubes. Builder will make it better but wondering what options might be to repair this
Hey man Im sorry, I dont have a good answer for you on this. Im a weekend DIY'er just learning these things as I go along. My advice if you dont want to get a contractor involved, find a deck building facebook group and ask the question. You will get plenty of feedback.
Nice job with the video. I wish you had gone into a little more detail regarding the plans and drawings. I am in the process of trying to draw plants for a 14 x 60‘ deck.
Thanks man, I will put more focus in the plan development in future projects. Good luck on the deck. Its a lot more work than I ever thought it would be.
Hi. Quick question. According to building permit requirements i am suppose to do 19" footing for intermediate posts, but i haven't seen tubes bigger than 16". What should i do?
How do you know how far apart to put the post and what size tubes so I have to use? I live in Southern California do I have a frost line? It doesn’t snow where I live.😂
If you go to that website I detailed in the video, they have a map that will show you how deep to go, and the size of footers you would need. Super jealous of your weather. I hate snow.
Getting ready to buid a deck and I have a question. You suggested measuring from corner to corner. that will ensure the deck is square but not parallel to the house. the 3 4 5 method ensures the deck will be square (parallel) to the house. I think you should use both but I am just a DIYer so I may be wrong
I too am just a DIYer. I learned how to build this deck the same way you are. When I did my research, it was my understanding the 3, 4, 5 method is easier for some on a large deck. Both will give you a square deck. If you place a square deck against the house it should always end up parallel.
I didnt have a truck at the time of this build :( But you are correct! The quarry would have saved me so much more money. That stuff is almost $7 a bag today.
I set my j-bolts right after I poured the pillar. If I waited, the concrete would have set and I would never be able to get those bolts in there without weakening the concrete.
My rebars were three feet. I would recommend looking for your local code requirements. If you can find them, try calling your cities permit/planning office.
The Sonotubes I used for the deck were 18" and the ones I used for the stair landing were 12". Im not really sure about your footings/pier question. There are a lot of good calculators out there that can really help, or see what your local building code requires. I just can't answer that without knowing more about your deck and local requirements.
@@DIYDeclassified Okay, thanks for the follow up. My town just has the minimum footings depth and width, but a 42 inch frost line. I saw some different ways of doing it like you did, or with a footer first then a pier with the sonotube. Trying to understand the pros and cons of each. Great video though. I had the same problem with the one man auger for my shed. Bounced all around, and the holes were all off. I'll probably hand dig this time.
@@jeff_9074 A lot of cities are starting to gravitate towards the pier with a footer. If it's not required, it really depends on your risk appetite. There are definitely pros and cons of both. Good luck! It's a tiring project, but well worth it.
It might. When I rented the equipment I didn’t even think to ask. It didn’t really have a problem digging the hole, the problem we had was breaking through the first first. The soil was so compacted from construction equipment.
That I cannot answer for you. If you are doing any kind of structural changes to your home by adding an extension, you would have to follow your local building code. Sorry 🫤
If my holes were off and already poured, I would figure out how to adjust my deck plans so the posts would fit. You could also re-dig and re-pour. But once you have a footer in, it's almost impossible to get it out without excavation equipment.
@@DIYDeclassified what about grinding out the metal saddles, drilling into the concrete and replacing with new saddles and use some sort of strong adhesive in the hole? Thoughts?
@@ourspacesinc you could do that. Then just drill the hole, epoxy in a bolt and you'd be good to go. Don't go too close to the edge of your pillar though.
@@ourspacesinc I also messed up my post locations with the auger and ended up redigging most of my holes by hand. Luckily for me I didn't pour before I realized they were off.
We just had summer 3 with the deck and its holding up great. I do treat it annaully in the spring to help with longevity. Where Im from, a lot of deck builders dont use treated. The treated lumber in my area is dark brown and warps really bad, so they avoid it based on the contractors I've talked to.
For the footers, they all dont need to be the same height. I just made sure they were all a few inches above the ground and left it at that. The posts that go on the footers will vary in height, which I explain in Episode 2 by clicking here: y2u.be/D_23O1QsrXY
Depends on what is sitting on them. If you are attaching piers that will connect to your rim joist then you can cut all the piers to the same height. If the rim joist is sitting directly on the concrete footing, then the footings will all need to be the same height. This is what I had to do with my deck and what is most common on decks that aren't very high off the ground. Some extra steps for ensuring all level, but not to difficult, just get a line level and attach it to the string used on the batter board.
I thought I did, must not have made the edit. For anyone interested, when you pour concrete, you might trap air as you pour. This can cause cracking and other issues. So to avoid this, you can use rebar to agitate the concrete and help release the air pockets.
@@DIYDeclassified The manufacturer's guidance appears based on the materials being non-toxic and environment friendly. It says the tube is biodegradable. Best practice would dictate the tube to be removed because the object is to produce maximum skin friction. It's probably not a big deal on the loads for your deck, but on a larger project, best practice would be to pour the concrete directly into the soil to get that maximum skin friction.
@@lucasmcdonald9306 even better, create a bell shape at the bottom, put a footer in with L shaped rebar, let dry.. then place sonotube on top and pour in concrete. Did this for my shed 4yrs ago, so far so good.
Great info. But could you please lose the annoying music in the background that makes it hard to hear what you're saying. At least lower it in the mix. No idea what purpose it serves.
I appologise. I took some bad editing advice on these deck videos. Thank you for lett me know. Its comments like this that help my editing journey, and provide better quality videos for everyone.
I appologise. I took some bad editing advice on these deck videos. Thank you for lett me know. Its comments like this that help my editing journey, and provide better quality videos for everyone.
Sorry man. I was just learning how to do videos when edited these and really messed up the audio. I’ve found a way to fix it without deleting the video, and should be good to go at the end of the month.
I have paid 2 contractors to put up a deck, a ton of money, and neither meet code. They are licensed and insured - cost me more to sue them. A woman is stupid. I can't do worse than not square, not level, no cross support, no footings, the stairs are 10" to short, post 18'' deep, wood touching the ground. 20 nails makes the board level? I'm game to try. Mixing concrete -- heck, they pour it in the hole and add water @@ Again, I could have done that myself.
Im sorry you had a bad experience. I know a lot of contractors personally, and they always make comments about how the bad ones ruin the reputation of them all.
Good video but the music was awful. Especially when its the same song for all of your videos. mmmm mmmmm mmmmm mmmmmmmm mmmmmmmm Louder quieter louder quieter mmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmm
Rain pipe? Lol…I guess you’re going the route of NOT getting a permit then. Nothing at all wrong with the diameter of the concrete. That’s what sonotubes are designed for. But feel free to go you’re own route. I’m sure a surprise visit by a building inspector telling you to tear everything apart will be worth the time and effort you saved on a few bucks of concrete lol.
Yeah, its a little overkill for the deck. When I built this it was during 2021 with a huge supply shortage. I had to take what I could get. At least I can be confident that they are not going anywhere. Ha Ha
![Installing Batter Boards with String Line [Shop Foundation]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bP8iDuretmU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks everyone for watching! I appologise for the bad audio in this video. I assure you the all-around quality will improve as this channel grows.
I still found this useful, helpful and enjoyed it all the same!
audio is fine i’m a finish carpenter but i love building decks …. found your video very informative
The content is great, keep going, refine what you need with the production. I love how it's just negative comments are repeated even though you have clearly addressed it. And to be honest it's not that bad. "Lighten up Francis!"
This is great, how you showed your method of locating the post positions, warned newbies about how easy it is to accidentally shift the holes, used a drawing to show how important alignment is! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
This was exactly what I've been looking for . Great job .Thank you❤
The best set of directions on the web award for building a deck. That should be a thing on YOuTube. "Best Directions for...", you know, brain surgery, small engine repair, decks, etc. Endless categories for direction awards.
In any case, your video is the winner. Thanks for the links to the practical resources and professional & simple set of directions. You made the complex simple and understandable. No small feat. I shall now approach my task with confidence and certainty. Excelsior! lol Great stuff - really.
Now, where to find me some people to do all that hole digging. Hmmm 🤔
The best deck video I’ve seen- thanks brother!!!!
Excellent video! We are planning a pergola in Florida so researching the footers now. Thank you.
Trick I came up with years ago when having to dig post holes in an area with lots of rock, is to just use an old shop vac and a digging bar. You just loosen the soil using the digging bar and use the shop vac to suck up all the loose soil and getting on your hands and knees to actually reach in and pull the rocks out by hand. This way is much easier on the arms and body and can keep the holes tight. This works for any type of soil, but is great in areas an auger just cant work for you due to rock. Highly suggest trying this trick. I hope it helps.
DUDE! That is a genius idea!!! Digging those holes in this soil was aweful. It took me three days to get through it all.
@@DIYDeclassified Fyi It works even better if you have a small jackhammer to use.
You are so right! I did a footer job this spring, my work buddy thought of the idea, and it worked remarkably well!.
That's cheating!!
@@DIYDeclassified also you can use a power washer and suck up the dirt/water!
Thanks for this simple and straightforward video. I feel confident I can do this!
wow the j bolt thing is an amazing idea never even knew that was an option
Glad it was helpful! You got this!
Great video. I’m ready to start my deck and was looking for some info around the foundation. Like the idea of having the concrete above the ground level.
I'm glad it was helpful. Good luck on your build. Of all the projects Ive done on my house, this one is by far my favorite.
01:30 Wooden batter boards.
03:22 Upgraded to rebar pins for the win.
05:30 Removable handle shovel......neat idea.
Great job.
Thank you.
38 inch deep footings? Man that seems deep. Here in the Southeastern US we go 16 inches in my zone but I usually go 20 inches. It makes the inspectors happy from the beginning and makes the final a breeze. Nice video! Keep up the great content.
You're very lucky. We have to go almost 48 inches deep to get below the frost line and prevent frost heave where I'm at.
As hard as that ground was, I wish I only had to go 16 inches. Thanks for the compliment!
@@Eger118877 Here in New Hampshire according to various websites the frost line here is 60" .Yup that's right! Sucks
@@pmaint1 ouch that does suck! I watch Perkins Builder Brothers and their frost line is 12". LoL Can you imagine how much cheaper and easier it would be just for example to do deck footings and Sonotubes and only go down 12" vs. 60"?
Up here in Southern Canada the footing hole has to go down 5 feet.
Nice video. I Am a red seal carpenter in Canada. I don't do much decks but this video was a text book example. Great work
Thank you for the compliment. You should jump on the bandwaggon and record yourself on some of your jobs. Some of the best carpenters on TV and RUclips have come from Canada.
I like the garden tools organizer behind you, I’ll make one like that
I had a little lumber left over and just threw something together to get them off the floor. Quick two minute project!
Where you at location wise where it’s 103 degrees F, you get “a lot of snow” and code only requires 36” deep footers. Here in Michigan we are 42” deep footers
I’m in the Northern Utah area. We typically get a lot of snow due to the mountains, but that week I recorded this we had a weird heat wave. We usually only get a handful of days in triple digits. My city provided me the depth requirement for the footer.
Mag troweling the concrete is for more than just looks. It does bring that slurry up and it’s also going to remove those pits in the surface where water WILL accumulate and freeze. When it cracks, it will crack in ways you don’t want it to.
Yeah, I have a lot to improve on my concrete skills. At the end of this job I relized I should have just spent the $20 to get the mag trowel. Thank you for the advice and for watching.
You killed it in this video....batter or badder boards 😅 freakin anxiety eliminated thank you
Im glad I could help.
Awesome video!! Just starting the series excited to see how it turns out!
Did you have to use a concrete vibrator?
Never spoke on getting everything square. Maybe talking about the 3-4 method on making sure you are square
You're right. I did leave that out on the footers, and only covered it in the framing video. WHOOPS!
Eyeball it!?? The water to concrete mix ratio is critical!
VERY GOOD VIDEO! THANK YOU
You are welcome! Thank you for watching.
Awesome video!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thankyou for watching.
I've got clay soil. Can I back fill with 3/4 crush?
👏👏👏👏👏nice presentation👍🏻😎😁.
Thank you.
Great content. Great work. Thank you. (From Canada)
Thanks for watching!
2 questions; permits and inspector? How long did it take for approval and inspection?
Yes, and yes. This all depends on your city. It took me a couple months to get the permit. There is a lot of building going on in my city so they are overwhelmed. They had to come out for three inspections: 1) inspect your footings before concrete. 2) inspect framing. 3) Final inspection. They only needed a couple days notice for this.
so when that sono tube breaks down youll have a gap around your tube. usually builders only use the tube at ground level and below ground level is just the hole for the concrete.
My local building inspectors will not accept that practice. We have aggressive freeze and thaw cycles in the spring and fall. The rough walls of the concrete without a tube would allow more ratcheting of the footer. At least that’s the rationale of my local inspectors.
Any reason why I shouldn’t go with 8” concrete pylons? Only using 4x4 post ?
Ok im building an 18x24 pavilion with forms like those why would i put the forms under the center part of the string line where they cross if my post would sit on the inside of the string line wouldnt that cause the post to sit on the edge of the forms or am i mistaken or should i mark the spot where my post will sit then dig holes for forms so they are centered where my post are sorry havent done alot of form building for post
Seems like a small bit of steel anchored in the concrete to attach to. I would think that could be broken free from the concrete over time. Wouldnt it be better to be attached to the rebar shoved down deeper?
The J-bolt is pretty standard for this application and is 12 inches long. If it comes out and breaks appart, this would tell me the concrete lost its integirty and the whole footer would probably need replaced.
How do you know that the J bolts are centered in the pillars poured? I didn’t see a step for this Al I saw was it just being stuffed in
Great educational video & thoroughness. Personally, I prefer no background music or very soft. too distracting otherwise.
I appologise. I took some bad editing advice on these deck videos. Thank you for lett me know. Its comments like this that help my editing journey, and provide better quality videos for everyone.
You didn’t do a vapor barrier under the deck? Why didn’t you wet down your tube before adding Crete ? Being that dry it causes Crete to dry uneven and can break. Lastly for those watching, drill your holes in the rain if your ground is that hard n dry. Start the holes then wait for a rainy day..... ole boy in Texas showed me that. And no, not pouring rain but something more than a sprinkle
A vapor barier isnt needed for this application, as its 100% open to outside air. If I sealed off the sides of my deck it would be a different story. I live in a high altitude desert where we are lucky to get any humidity. As for the SONO Tubes, they are coated in wax on the inside. Wetting them down would just cause puddles at the bottom.
Hi, getting gazebo built and builder put it on piers 4 feet into ground - frost line. A couple of posts are not centered on sonotube, corner of bracket is off on the edge of the sonotube. Building inspector cleared the sonotube and likely will ok the building. Happy with overall results, looks great except worried about those two posts not fully on sonotubes. Builder will make it better but wondering what options might be to repair this
Hey man Im sorry, I dont have a good answer for you on this. Im a weekend DIY'er just learning these things as I go along. My advice if you dont want to get a contractor involved, find a deck building facebook group and ask the question. You will get plenty of feedback.
can u tell me what the post base brand is and where to purchase them?
Nice job with the video. I wish you had gone into a little more detail regarding the plans and drawings. I am in the process of trying to draw plants for a 14 x 60‘ deck.
Thanks man, I will put more focus in the plan development in future projects. Good luck on the deck. Its a lot more work than I ever thought it would be.
Hi. Quick question. According to building permit requirements i am suppose to do 19" footing for intermediate posts, but i haven't seen tubes bigger than 16". What should i do?
I dig the bottom of the hole a little wider, them use 2' rebar to make a # patern. This gives me a wider foot print.
Plumb bob off a frame that’s set with temp supports if way more accurate and way easier.
Thank you for the feedback.
Excellent presentation but I could have done without the background/foreground soundtrack.
How do you know how far apart to put the post and what size tubes so I have to use? I live in Southern California do I have a frost line? It doesn’t snow where I live.😂
If you go to that website I detailed in the video, they have a map that will show you how deep to go, and the size of footers you would need. Super jealous of your weather. I hate snow.
Getting ready to buid a deck and I have a question. You suggested measuring from corner to corner. that will ensure the deck is square but not parallel to the house. the 3 4 5 method ensures the deck will be square (parallel) to the house. I think you should use both but I am just a DIYer so I may be wrong
I too am just a DIYer. I learned how to build this deck the same way you are. When I did my research, it was my understanding the 3, 4, 5 method is easier for some on a large deck. Both will give you a square deck. If you place a square deck against the house it should always end up parallel.
It’s much cheaper and efficient to take your truck to the quarry or rock yard to get rock instead of buying it by the bag.
I didnt have a truck at the time of this build :(
But you are correct! The quarry would have saved me so much more money. That stuff is almost $7 a bag today.
How much time do you have to set the J-bolts? Can you pour all your footings and then set the bolts?
I set my j-bolts right after I poured the pillar. If I waited, the concrete would have set and I would never be able to get those bolts in there without weakening the concrete.
How long were the rebars? What size sonotube would you recommended for a 6x6 post?
My rebars were three feet. I would recommend looking for your local code requirements. If you can find them, try calling your cities permit/planning office.
quick question. whats the feet of the sonotube and how many bags of concrete did u use on 1?
I wish i had the luxury of using a post augur
Doing that by hand is hard work. Hats off to you for doing it.
@DIYDeclassified where i live is very rocky, so it is much safer to do it by hand.
That wasn't a pneumatic aguer...it was a hydraulic
You never explained how you fixed the post holes that were off
Where’s that website that you looked up how many bags of concrete you needed?
www.quikrete.com/pdfs/data_sheet-quiktube.pdf
Are these j bolts necessary ? My pergola has given me plates where I need to drill into concrete and screw it in. Thx
They are not necessary. You absolutely can drill a hole and place a bolt that way as well. They are just two different ways to get the same job done.
Where about are you? 36” maybe in the valleys, mountains I’d think it’s deeper than 3 foot
My city specifically, the code calls for 36 inches. Im close to a lake, so any deeper and I risk hitting the water table.
The post wouldn't meet code here in the dmv. It would need to be inside the ground
Ive seen it done both ways where I am at, but my city inspectors wanted it this way so I followed.
The deck book I'm reading mentions footing sizes.. so for example a beam size of 6ft, and a joist span of
The Sonotubes I used for the deck were 18" and the ones I used for the stair landing were 12".
Im not really sure about your footings/pier question. There are a lot of good calculators out there that can really help, or see what your local building code requires. I just can't answer that without knowing more about your deck and local requirements.
@@DIYDeclassified Okay, thanks for the follow up. My town just has the minimum footings depth and width, but a 42 inch frost line. I saw some different ways of doing it like you did, or with a footer first then a pier with the sonotube. Trying to understand the pros and cons of each.
Great video though. I had the same problem with the one man auger for my shed. Bounced all around, and the holes were all off. I'll probably hand dig this time.
@@jeff_9074 A lot of cities are starting to gravitate towards the pier with a footer. If it's not required, it really depends on your risk appetite. There are definitely pros and cons of both. Good luck! It's a tiring project, but well worth it.
@@DIYDeclassified Thanks!
Would it be easoer if you started with a thinner auger size
It might. When I rented the equipment I didn’t even think to ask. It didn’t really have a problem digging the hole, the problem we had was breaking through the first first. The soil was so compacted from construction equipment.
Can this set up be used to for a shed or a small room extension?
That I cannot answer for you. If you are doing any kind of structural changes to your home by adding an extension, you would have to follow your local building code. Sorry 🫤
How would you fix holes that are off but already poured
If my holes were off and already poured, I would figure out how to adjust my deck plans so the posts would fit. You could also re-dig and re-pour. But once you have a footer in, it's almost impossible to get it out without excavation equipment.
@@DIYDeclassified what about grinding out the metal saddles, drilling into the concrete and replacing with new saddles and use some sort of strong adhesive in the hole? Thoughts?
I think I was drunk on my last four holes cause they are way off lol
@@ourspacesinc you could do that. Then just drill the hole, epoxy in a bolt and you'd be good to go. Don't go too close to the edge of your pillar though.
@@ourspacesinc I also messed up my post locations with the auger and ended up redigging most of my holes by hand. Luckily for me I didn't pour before I realized they were off.
How did you calculate accurate consistent level hight?
The string line. I have a level attached, and also used my 6 ft level between each.
How is this deck holding up without it being treated lumber?
We just had summer 3 with the deck and its holding up great. I do treat it annaully in the spring to help with longevity. Where Im from, a lot of deck builders dont use treated. The treated lumber in my area is dark brown and warps really bad, so they avoid it based on the contractors I've talked to.
useful
Glad to hear that
How do you ensure all at same height?
For the footers, they all dont need to be the same height. I just made sure they were all a few inches above the ground and left it at that. The posts that go on the footers will vary in height, which I explain in Episode 2 by clicking here: y2u.be/D_23O1QsrXY
Depends on what is sitting on them. If you are attaching piers that will connect to your rim joist then you can cut all the piers to the same height. If the rim joist is sitting directly on the concrete footing, then the footings will all need to be the same height. This is what I had to do with my deck and what is most common on decks that aren't very high off the ground. Some extra steps for ensuring all level, but not to difficult, just get a line level and attach it to the string used on the batter board.
'Epic' by itself is a bit of an overkill for this deck :-) not even to mention all your capital letters. it's a good video though, informative!
Quit complaining😅
Should have mentioned air pockets
I thought I did, must not have made the edit. For anyone interested, when you pour concrete, you might trap air as you pour. This can cause cracking and other issues. So to avoid this, you can use rebar to agitate the concrete and help release the air pockets.
I dont think biulding is a sutible occupation for those who are noise sensitive
very low quality weed barrier and no overlap???? Considering the money and water it gets.
It was definitely the wrong place to save a buck.
You're not supposed to leave sonotube in the ground. It will rot and the leave a gap between the footings and soil.
That is incorrect. Even the manufacturer states to leave it unless required by building code.
@@DIYDeclassified The manufacturer's guidance appears based on the materials being non-toxic and environment friendly. It says the tube is biodegradable. Best practice would dictate the tube to be removed because the object is to produce maximum skin friction. It's probably not a big deal on the loads for your deck, but on a larger project, best practice would be to pour the concrete directly into the soil to get that maximum skin friction.
@@lucasmcdonald9306 even better, create a bell shape at the bottom, put a footer in with L shaped rebar, let dry.. then place sonotube on top and pour in concrete. Did this for my shed 4yrs ago, so far so good.
Should have dropped your camera in that tube for content
Great info. But could you please lose the annoying music in the background that makes it hard to hear what you're saying. At least lower it in the mix. No idea what purpose it serves.
I appologise. I took some bad editing advice on these deck videos. Thank you for lett me know. Its comments like this that help my editing journey, and provide better quality videos for everyone.
The music makes it hard to listen.
I appologise. I took some bad editing advice on these deck videos. Thank you for lett me know. Its comments like this that help my editing journey, and provide better quality videos for everyone.
good instructions! really BAD music that sent me away watching someone else , sorry dude !
Sorry man. I was just learning how to do videos when edited these and really messed up the audio. I’ve found a way to fix it without deleting the video, and should be good to go at the end of the month.
@@DIYDeclassified Thanks hope you all the best
I have paid 2 contractors to put up a deck, a ton of money, and neither meet code. They are licensed and insured - cost me more to sue them. A woman is stupid. I can't do worse than not square, not level, no cross support, no footings, the stairs are 10" to short, post 18'' deep, wood touching the ground. 20 nails makes the board level? I'm game to try. Mixing concrete -- heck, they pour it in the hole and add water @@ Again, I could have done that myself.
Im sorry you had a bad experience. I know a lot of contractors personally, and they always make comments about how the bad ones ruin the reputation of them all.
men, I can't watch the video, the music is way to loud.
F up the whole video 😳
Totally agree with you
Yeah it's really annoying..
Such loud annoying music, I missed most of what you were trying to say
Dont like the music
Unnecessary, and especially LOUD, background music is one of the hallmarks of a RUclips amateur.
Well it’s my first video…so yeah I’m an amateur.
Good video but the music was awful. Especially when its the same song for all of your videos. mmmm mmmmm mmmmm mmmmmmmm mmmmmmmm Louder quieter louder quieter mmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmm
Very good Series but please dump that shitty music
I sure will. I have received a lot of comments on it and have changed my editing practices to try and make it more enjoyable.
Ridiculous big concrete post ..are you building a 4 level apartment on it 😂😂..it's a deck ..the thinkness of a rain pipe would be sufficient
Rain pipe? Lol…I guess you’re going the route of NOT getting a permit then. Nothing at all wrong with the diameter of the concrete. That’s what sonotubes are designed for. But feel free to go you’re own route. I’m sure a surprise visit by a building inspector telling you to tear everything apart will be worth the time and effort you saved on a few bucks of concrete lol.
Yeah, its a little overkill for the deck. When I built this it was during 2021 with a huge supply shortage. I had to take what I could get. At least I can be confident that they are not going anywhere. Ha Ha
When it's attached to the house you don't want it to heave from freeze/thaw.
Poor choice with the music ... It was very distracting
The audio is way off. Not watchable.