Sam as long as your tubes are plumb you can take a piece of poster board and wrap it around the tubes so the ends line up and just draw a line around the tube. 👍👍
Regarding rusted rebar. I'm a retired architect, while in Haiti doing aid work, Habitant for Humanity was experiencing big cracking in their foundations and asked my advice. At the job site, I couldn't find anything wrong and the cause of the large cracks in thier foundations ...UNYIL I saw their rebar ...they had kept it all under cover and well oiled it so it won't RUST! I told them to wip the oil off the rebar and leave the rebar in the rain so as it will RUST! They had no problems with cracking foundtions from that point on.
I misunderstood the use of the pink fiberglass rebar, but you corrected me. Thank you. Can't wait for the build to begin. Thank you Angela for helping on the foundation piers.
"Look at how easy life is" lol, I know that feeling, 100% of the time happens every time I go to show someone some time saving technique I got, got my thumbs u right there
Looking great Sam! The framing is always the fun part where you really see it take shape. I remember building my garage / shop and once I got the walls up and roof trusses in thinking dang this is a big structure. Now that I’m all moved in it feels much smaller.
I totally agree! I'm lagging behind a little bit on reality vs. video editing (have been taking advantage of the dry weather and working as much as I can), so I can honestly say the walls being up make it feel great! It's nice to see the space to begin to think about layout of things. :)
A piece of bristol board works as a "pipe wrap" of sorts as well for taking a pencil mark all the way around a Sonotube. Just cut a strip about 6-8 inches wide off the long side, wrap it around the pipe at your pencil mark making sure the factory edges line up at the mark, and trace your line around the tube.
Also ...line the Simpson anchors with #30 felt as all wood will eventually rot in contact with metal or concert ...and lay down .06 mil vapor barrier on the ground under where the structure is going "before" you start the framing. 🤪
Hi sam. Looking good so far. I jojned you on your first shop build. Going to be a beast. I do have a question that your probably gojng to cover in the next video but, how are you gonna stop water from sitting on top of the concrete posts potentially rotting your timbers? Thinking about it, there shouldn't be any if all is watertight. Thanks for sharing
The piers sit completely underneath the structure so no water should ever get to that point. The more real possibility is the concrete wicking up moisture from the ground which is why treated lumber must always be used when in contact with concrete.
Absolutely love your videos. I'm learning a lot. I hope you can advise me on what to do. I was having a simple deck built on the back of my house. Max height is 1'6". The contractor poured the 12" wide 36" deep piers unevenly and some are TOO HIGH! Can I cut the piers down, cut a hole to put the 6x6 adjustable bases in. I'll be putting triple 2x10s onto the notched 6x6's. If I can't do this, do I pull the piers up with a farm jack, dig the hole deeper and put back in? I really hope you can advise me. Thank you-Jim
My husband and I are planning to do some similar piers with cardboard concrete tubes. Do you remember about how many bags (and what size) of concrete you needed for this? Also, how did you calculate what diameter you wanted to use? You've earned a new subscriber today with your straightforward, easy to follow videos that aren't trying to sell us a million products, etc. Thank you!!
Hey brother, been watching your channel for a minute and wanted to let you know that we used your link to xTool and bought the F1 with a slide under your code. I especially wanted you to get credit for steering us in the right direction! Being close to retirement we needed something that we enjoyed to keep us busy and supplement our almost zero income thanks to GVT screwups, uh Joebronie. Thank you so much from me and my girl. Next, we're buying all your files... Go figure, right? Do you have a bottle opener jig? We are getting a CR Falcon 20w, can you help us get the camera on it so it will do like the OMtech and align multiple objects? Thank you again!
What's the difference between making a rebar cage for the pier vs just placing the rebar in after the concrete pour? Putting them in after seems significantly easier to me. Building a tiny house with a pier and beam foundation and trying to figure out if I should make the rebar cages or just place them like you did.
@@jeffmorton7217 off by a zero - the workshop in this video is 640 sq/ft. Not sure the answer to the commenter's question, but I'm assuming the answer is yes as long as you scale it out properly.
I think these are 48" -- they will stick out the ends of pallets. I like them being longer. It can be a tripping hazard depending how you park the loader, but I like them all the same. These were the best deal around for the SSQA forks and have been a great addition!
You are dealing with Mother Earth...not just the weight of a wooden structure. If the space between piers shifts......it resists shearing of the concrete. A broken/sheered pier no longer supports weight.
I don't know that it is necessary, but I removed it to prevent it becoming a nice cozy habitat for bugs to then migrate into my workshop easier. :) That, and it looks better I think.
Im building a free standing deck, and im trying to calculate my footings and posts. Its going to be 10 feet off the ground and im using 6x6 posts, and either 6x6 beams, or multiple 2x12 nailed together as the beams. Does anyone know how much distance between the posts i need to aim for? Im hoping for less posts so i have more space under the deck to park equipment. Should i go every 8 foot of beam? Or can i get away with a 12-14 foot span between posts? Any help would be great
I built a 16’x48’ deck, cantilevered from my home, 20 years ago. The superstructure is all green, the top is white cedar planks. I have repaired about 1/3 of the boards in the last few years. I used 10” diameter piers 48” deep (code minimum was 42” deep), they are spaced 4’ apart or 13 piers. They are level with the ground. I used 2x10’s every 16”, and a 48’ long beam of 2x10’s, 1/2” plywood spacer. Finished height is 20”. I used a deck building computer at Menards (I’m in the Chicago area, check with Lowe’s or Home Depot if there’s no Menards). I submitted these plans to our HOA and then the Village for a permit, they accepted it, I paid $60 for the permit and they also gave me a “Job Site Plan” that had some requirements of the Village (like minimum depth of piers, stair sizing, etc.). I started March 15 and finished August 15. I worked with my 10 year old grandson every day after work for a couple of hours, and all day Saturday. I had help putting in the 2 stair cases and the top one Saturday (4 of us), we completed this in 8 hours. PS: I also did a brick veneer on the front of the home and 2 large masonry fireplaces along with this permit. 20 years later everything is in good condition.
Look up beam span lengths AND sq footage deck bearing for each footing. IRC decking code 2021 tables. The latter dictates the size of footings. 12” diameter tubes alone are often not large enough…
Most of the time i feel as tho something like rebar inside of concrete theoretically will outlast the rest of my lifespan THUS why pay extra for something that will be someone elses problem later down the road after im dead lol
Take a 1 x 2,...right angle a small 'hook' on one end. You'll have an L shape. Hook the 'hook' over the top of the TUBE. DRILL a small 1/8" HOLE at the DISTANCE desired. DRAG around TUBE...perfectly MARKED . Drill a NEW hole for each successive tube. Repeat. Project DONE...accurately...if you sawed on the line.
Seems like you created a lot more work by installing sauna tubes and pouring that high of piers where just pouring down below frost line approx 24 x24 footer and then using 6x6 post to support the structure
Sam as long as your tubes are plumb you can take a piece of poster board and wrap it around the tubes so the ends line up and just draw a line around the tube. 👍👍
Good tip!
That’s the way to do it
Regarding rusted rebar. I'm a retired architect, while in Haiti doing aid work, Habitant for Humanity was experiencing big cracking in their foundations and asked my advice. At the job site, I couldn't find anything wrong and the cause of the large cracks in thier foundations ...UNYIL I saw their rebar ...they had kept it all under cover and well oiled it so it won't RUST! I told them to wip the oil off the rebar and leave the rebar in the rain so as it will RUST! They had no problems with cracking foundtions from that point on.
Love your channel man. And much better than many at explaining, learning, and describing things in a simple quick manner.
I appreciate that!
Great teacher and knowledgeable , also you get to the point and don't blabber on about useless information that is irrelevant to the topic lol
Sam "LOOK AT HOW EASY LIFE IS" Freaking EPIC!
This shop won't go anywhere with those foundations! Excellent work.
Thank you!
I misunderstood the use of the pink fiberglass rebar, but you corrected me. Thank you.
Can't wait for the build to begin. Thank you Angela for helping on the foundation piers.
"Look at how easy life is" lol, I know that feeling, 100% of the time happens every time I go to show someone some time saving technique I got, got my thumbs u right there
Looking great Sam! The framing is always the fun part where you really see it take shape. I remember building my garage / shop and once I got the walls up and roof trusses in thinking dang this is a big structure. Now that I’m all moved in it feels much smaller.
I totally agree! I'm lagging behind a little bit on reality vs. video editing (have been taking advantage of the dry weather and working as much as I can), so I can honestly say the walls being up make it feel great! It's nice to see the space to begin to think about layout of things. :)
Well done Sam, your intro and graphics is the best around to this day. Hate missing framing day, but too far away man.
Good idea with the fiberglass rebar.
I don't understand why he used regular rebar in the first post then says to use fiberglass
Portaband saw works a lot better and quicker. Going to be a nice shop.
Looks great! Cannot wait to see the building start!
Sam….wow great progress! And I had not heard of the pink rebar! Thats super cool!
Thanks so much!
Great idea with the fan for dust control.
A piece of bristol board works as a "pipe wrap" of sorts as well for taking a pencil mark all the way around a Sonotube. Just cut a strip about 6-8 inches wide off the long side, wrap it around the pipe at your pencil mark making sure the factory edges line up at the mark, and trace your line around the tube.
Also ...line the Simpson anchors with #30 felt as all wood will eventually rot in contact with metal or concert ...and lay down .06 mil vapor barrier on the ground under where the structure is going "before" you start the framing. 🤪
Good tips to avoid as much moisture as possible. Maybe even adding a thin layer of 1/2" - stone over the barrier.
Need to make a jig
Thank you Sam and Angel! Great job! As always!
Thank you for sharing Bud.
Nice project, happy to stumble across your channel
Welcome aboard!
Good on you sam coming on fantastic.Nice to see someone working hard to achive end goal
Thanks 👍
enjoy your new workshop. blessings 🌻
Thank you! 🤗
Looking great y'all, keep pressing and you'll be done in no time.
Will do!
Great job, Sam. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
great job Sam.
Thanks!
Hi sam. Looking good so far. I jojned you on your first shop build. Going to be a beast.
I do have a question that your probably gojng to cover in the next video but, how are you gonna stop water from sitting on top of the concrete posts potentially rotting your timbers?
Thinking about it, there shouldn't be any if all is watertight.
Thanks for sharing
The piers sit completely underneath the structure so no water should ever get to that point. The more real possibility is the concrete wicking up moisture from the ground which is why treated lumber must always be used when in contact with concrete.
Now let the fun begin
Looking great.
Absolutely love your videos. I'm learning a lot. I hope you can advise me on what to do. I was having a simple deck built on the back of my house. Max height is 1'6". The contractor poured the 12" wide 36" deep piers unevenly and some are TOO HIGH! Can I cut the piers down, cut a hole to put the 6x6 adjustable bases in. I'll be putting triple 2x10s onto the notched 6x6's.
If I can't do this, do I pull the piers up with a farm jack, dig the hole deeper and put back in?
I really hope you can advise me.
Thank you-Jim
This was extremely informative, thank you! How long did it take for the concrete to cure?
Looking good man. From Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
Thanks 👍
"All the way around the CIRCUMFERENCE of that tube" Sam!
Nice work guys. 👍🏼
Thank you! 👍
Awesome work bro
Thanks!😀
My husband and I are planning to do some similar piers with cardboard concrete tubes. Do you remember about how many bags (and what size) of concrete you needed for this? Also, how did you calculate what diameter you wanted to use? You've earned a new subscriber today with your straightforward, easy to follow videos that aren't trying to sell us a million products, etc. Thank you!!
Quikrete has a chart for the volume of concrete for each diameter sonotube
Looking great!
Thanks!
Love the hat😊
"Not the money maker" 😅😂
Looks great!
Thanks!
How many columns did you use & how far apart were they? OK and 1 more thing how many bags of concrete for your project???
How deep in the ground do you need to go for a pier that 4ft outta the ground
Hey brother, been watching your channel for a minute and wanted to let you know that we used your link to xTool and bought the F1 with a slide under your code. I especially wanted you to get credit for steering us in the right direction! Being close to retirement we needed something that we enjoyed to keep us busy and supplement our almost zero income thanks to GVT screwups, uh Joebronie. Thank you so much from me and my girl. Next, we're buying all your files... Go figure, right? Do you have a bottle opener jig? We are getting a CR Falcon 20w, can you help us get the camera on it so it will do like the OMtech and align multiple objects? Thank you again!
I hope you like it, it's a great little machine and very capable while keeping size to a minimum! I don't have a bottle opener jig... yet? :)
Looks great
Thanks!
In the Philippines laborers are using a GRINDER to cut round bars 😂
I am keep an eye on this!
Nice work Sam :)
Thanks
What's the difference between making a rebar cage for the pier vs just placing the rebar in after the concrete pour? Putting them in after seems significantly easier to me. Building a tiny house with a pier and beam foundation and trying to figure out if I should make the rebar cages or just place them like you did.
Cage it homie
would that like a foundation hold a 800 square feet shed-house?
This is 20x32 or 6400 sq ft workshop. Your shed/house is substantially smaller.
@@jeffmorton7217 off by a zero - the workshop in this video is 640 sq/ft. Not sure the answer to the commenter's question, but I'm assuming the answer is yes as long as you scale it out properly.
So exciting Sam......
If you don’t mind me asking how much did cost you to do your foundation
Curious what length forks you have on the Massey? I'm debating between 42" and 48".
I think these are 48" -- they will stick out the ends of pallets. I like them being longer. It can be a tripping hazard depending how you park the loader, but I like them all the same. These were the best deal around for the SSQA forks and have been a great addition!
@Samcraftcom are those the standard model Titan forks? That's what I was shopping, include hitch and hay fork holes in the fork mounting plate.
Can't put loose rebars into a pore footing like that it has to be in a triangular or rectangular cage.
Why did you put rebar in the foundations?
The concrete will be in compression, not sure what the vertical rebar will do?
It's required in most places and a great safety addition for any future unknowns instead of risking it over $5 of rebar. :)
You are dealing with Mother Earth...not just the weight of a wooden structure. If the space between piers shifts......it resists shearing of the concrete. A broken/sheered pier no longer supports weight.
looking good brother
Thanks!
How much for the hat?😊😊
What ratio of cement, sand, aggregate did you use? Thanks.
It comes premixed from the hardware stores.
Nice job
Nice job!
Grate job mate. 😊
Thanks 😁
Good video. wouldn't it have been cheaper and faster to get a load of concrete delivered rather than mixing up a ton of bags?
Trick I found…. sonotube concrete chute. Mix and dump right into your hole.
You building a red iron building? Weld up or bolt?
No, this will be a stick framed building.
10:39 That is some wet concrete. Looks like it turned out well.
How long did it take to pour these?
how much was all of it?
why is it neccessary to strip the paper tubes off? just curious thanks
I don't know that it is necessary, but I removed it to prevent it becoming a nice cozy habitat for bugs to then migrate into my workshop easier. :) That, and it looks better I think.
It's for aesthetics.
Termites
Im building a free standing deck, and im trying to calculate my footings and posts. Its going to be 10 feet off the ground and im using 6x6 posts, and either 6x6 beams, or multiple 2x12 nailed together as the beams. Does anyone know how much distance between the posts i need to aim for? Im hoping for less posts so i have more space under the deck to park equipment. Should i go every 8 foot of beam? Or can i get away with a 12-14 foot span between posts? Any help would be great
need to look at lumber spanning charts
I built a 16’x48’ deck, cantilevered from my home, 20 years ago. The superstructure is all green, the top is white cedar planks. I have repaired about 1/3 of the boards in the last few years. I used 10” diameter piers 48” deep (code minimum was 42” deep), they are spaced 4’ apart or 13 piers. They are level with the ground. I used 2x10’s every 16”, and a 48’ long beam of 2x10’s, 1/2” plywood spacer. Finished height is 20”. I used a deck building computer at Menards (I’m in the Chicago area, check with Lowe’s or Home Depot if there’s no Menards). I submitted these plans to our HOA and then the Village for a permit, they accepted it, I paid $60 for the permit and they also gave me a “Job Site Plan” that had some requirements of the Village (like minimum depth of piers, stair sizing, etc.). I started March 15 and finished August 15. I worked with my 10 year old grandson every day after work for a couple of hours, and all day Saturday. I had help putting in the 2 stair cases and the top one Saturday (4 of us), we completed this in 8 hours.
PS: I also did a brick veneer on the front of the home and 2 large masonry fireplaces along with this permit. 20 years later everything is in good condition.
Look up beam span lengths AND sq footage deck bearing for each footing. IRC decking code 2021 tables. The latter dictates the size of footings. 12” diameter tubes alone are often not large enough…
Do the tubes have to be removed?
I would recommend it. Otherwise you may have problems with bug habitats in the wet concrete.
You should have made a jig
Dangit your videos make me want to build something, and im NOT A CARPENTER IN ANY WAY 😊
Yesr!!! ✌️💖🙏🤜
😂 #pink amazing work
An angle grinder with a metal round blade would have cut the steel faster.
A bandsaw
@@ascension6699 band saw is too expensive for the average person to buy. Grinder cheaper.
@@namkebanyanklariti my small battery ridgid one was like $130
Most of the time i feel as tho something like rebar inside of concrete theoretically will outlast the rest of my lifespan THUS why pay extra for something that will be someone elses problem later down the road after im dead lol
Take a 1 x 2,...right angle a small 'hook' on one end. You'll have an L shape.
Hook the 'hook' over the top of the TUBE.
DRILL a small 1/8" HOLE at the DISTANCE desired.
DRAG around TUBE...perfectly MARKED .
Drill a NEW hole for each successive tube.
Repeat.
Project DONE...accurately...if you sawed on the line.
❤❤❤❤❤
Nice,you need to take care of the money Maker have a great day😂😊
Thanks, you too!
Your girth requires strong concrete columns. Did you install at least 3' wide by 12" footer for each column? 😂
Why bother cutting the tubes?
Just put several screws thru the tube to mark the concrete height.
great video, very educational.
😀
2:55 Lmaoo sounds funny
👍🏾
Wear gloves guys. It’s fiberglass. Ask me how I know lol
Looks like to much water.
💕💕🎶🎶
now just walk away
Seems like you created a lot more work by installing sauna tubes and pouring that high of piers where just pouring down below frost line approx 24 x24 footer and then using 6x6 post to support the structure
This rots the post and is not an accepted building practice anymore.
@@forced_youtube_handle bullshit
those rebars are not doing anything unless you ring them every 6" to 8" ......you need to tie them , you need 4, or not rebar at all