DIY Tiny Home Pier Foundation | The Right Way
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
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12" Sonotube - www.lowes.com/...
Concrete - www.homedepot....
Foundation Anchors - www.lowes.com/...
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I did something very similar, but permitted.
Here is what mine took to get an engineer's stamp:
- 12" sono tubes
- 24" flared-out footers (so I had to dig 24" holes)
- 31" below-ground depth (I have an 18" frost line in my area)
- 18" above-ground height (a minimum requirement for access)
- Each pier needed QTY: 6 sticks of #5 40" rebar w/ QTY: 7 of #4 rebar 6" retaining rings (double-ring at top).
- A much beefier (ABU46Z) Simpson post-base w/ 10" anchor bolt.
That's not to say yours won't work, I'm just pointing out what was required for a permit.
To other viewers: The vast majority of occupied spaces in the USA require permits, with very few exceptions.
Best of luck with the build!
Thank you sooo much
This is excellent. What is the best way to find out the requirements in my area? Is this generally at the county level? State level? I'm just getting started, trying to learn as much as possible.
so you poured a concrete slab foundation or it's also off the ground on piers ? What is a flared out footer?
@@kateeydelnant5840basically its a plastic funnel that fits at the bottom of each of the pier tubes (right at the bottom of the holes) to spread the weight over a larger diameter, and to prevent the piers from being pulled out. It’s kinda like an elephant foot/leg. Ever get your foot stuck in wet sand/mud and it takes so much effort to pull it back out.
Also, in areas with frost, helps minimise ‘heaving’ (lifting of the foundation).
About the 18" above ground, that's for ground to the bottom of floor joints...being said, that's concrete post above ground plus high of floor beam needed 18" minimum
This was very informative. I agree with a previous comment that many videos out there are time lapse and silent which are not helpful at all when one is trying to learn a new skill or how someone went about all the steps to create this pier foundation. So glad I lucked out in coming across your video with just a broad search in Google. Thank you for posting and I look forward to watching your other videos!
Glad it was helpful!
What do you guys like/want to see more of in my videos? Really trying to make these videos as helpful/fun as possible for y'all!
I had an idea for the final video of the project, would be cool if you did a panning shot everytime you are doing a video on the site, but do it from the same spot at the same speed, then you could show the progess from start to finish of the construction!
I’d appreciate you sharing the resources you used for determining how many piers you needed along with any other math or common code items you think are important to do/follow/familiarize yourself with in preparation for a similar build. Our son is mid-low functioning aut¡st¡c and will live with us forever (or at least until it’s time for him to live with his big sister) so we are planning to build him a bachelor pad similar to what you have planned or possibly more like your “micro” apartment within the next year.
If you do another build can you show more details on framing cuts, angles, types of screws and where to place them. Also how to tie walls together and make sure they’re plum, same thing with the flooring. Delivering as much information as possible will make your channel stand out more than anyone. I can’t find much about the whole build process anywhere.
@@philipadcock3508 Try Perkins Builder Brothers they follow the entire process building houses a d offer a lot of “Pro Tips” along the wayBonus is their entertaining crew so their videos are entertaining too.
I want to learn how you get all the measurements and using strings, basics for dummies type stuff.
Great that you're giving the average viewer a good look into the importance & fundamentals of foundations. Especially w/ recent high profile "leaning tower" skyscrapers in San Francisco & NY, arising from faulty foundations.
I saw a video about the one in NY! That's kinda wild. Also I don't claim to be an expert with any of this* just trying to take risks and give it my best shot at life and not live a boring life like so many tend to do.
Incredible job man, so impressive that you're doing this solo
Yeah! Labor is just so expensive and I figured I'd probs learn some things along the way!
Thank you for this. every tiny home build I've seen is usually just a time-lapse. Your explanation gives me confidence to one day do this myself.
It’s crazy to see Construction on the main stage now, back when I was a kid my dad was looked down on by Society as a Carpenter/Labor. Now he’s paid in Bay Area as much as a Doctor 😅😂😂
I know right! I remember when doing anything ‘farm’ would get an ‘eeeww’ out of the world… and you still get that, but it’s pretty trendy nowadays. And urban farmers in suburban homes have shown how you can make 100k a year or more, farming and selling CSA or farmers markets … lots of options .
Crazy it was ever like that cause every living thing will seek food and SHELTER before they do anything. Construction should always be top of the list of jobs.
That says something about society 😅
I used helical screw piles. They don’t sink, aren’t affected by freeze. Resist uplift and will outlive me. Best of all they were all installed in one day and I was framing the next day.
Do you have any videos of it? I'd like to try them.
you can also mix cocreat with drill attachment used to mix plasters and glue its super fast
This is the first video I've found on your channel and I want to say thank you and absolutely incredible work. I'm definitely subscribed! This is so helpful especially for someone such as myself who's never built anything before but I'm looking to build my first tiny home and the foundation part seemed daunting. Not anymore with your help!
Is a bolt 4 in deep in concrete strong or capable enough to make this work long-term?
People often use rebar or a wire frame in sonotubes to provide more strength. You have insane energy to mix all that concrete in one day.
Hahah the 200mg of caffeine in Celsius is real 😅
My two penneth from Engalnd....I would put the anchors through large galvanised metal 3/8th inch thick discs slightly less than the internal diameter of the tubes, with a blocked-off tube welded on the bottom half to allow easy adjustment. Run a water-draining tube outside the sono from the bottom of the welded tube. Set these level in the concrete of the pillar. Put the anchors through a large thick washer as well as the existing small one. Double up the nuts and grease the thread to allow the nuts to be locked together when adjusted. This will spread the load on each pillar, and make adjustment much easier. When the house is settled, the grease will prevent possible corrosion of the threads, even though they are galvanised. I would also put rebar with rings inside the sono. Thanks for the video. Have subscribed. Best wishes. Tony
Bro, I like this videos. Me and the wife is doing this in Alaska in a few years. You answered a lot of questions
I just discovered this channel today. Love it! Awesome videos and I very much enjoyed watching the whole series. And the house you build earlier… it just looks so amazing. I am only 17 years old and would love to build myself a house like that one day as well. Best wishes from Germany ;)
Thanks for following along! I lived in Berlin for 6 months and loved it. Welcome to the team!
that was awesome ! most videos don't spend enough time explaining the foundations - but as you said, it's the most important part ! Definitely taking some notes for my project :D
I still see people putting treated wood poles straight into the ground -- and I don't get how they sleep at night knowing their house won't hold long !
thank you for this video, you make it look so easy!!! the small explanations are awesome, I have seen a couple of videos this was the best one. I will definitely watch the rest.
You used the wrong type of anchors. Those are not designed for wet set. They also will not adjust as you're saying.
Take an actual beam, attach all anchors in the right place, Set it up on a make shift scaffolding suport so that your anchor feet reach into the holes correctly, then pour the concrete in the two exterior pillars, let cure, then pour the concrete in the inner ones. Perfectly alligned foundation beam without any tension. Rent a concrete vibrator attachment for your cordless drill pour one third of the pillar let the air out by vibrating, repeat for 2/3 and 3/3.
Just use a sawzall without the blade on the side of the sonotubes
Man, a drill with $15 mixing paddle would have saved you hours and calories.
gotta stay thin haha
Concrete without steel rebar is absolutely not gonna last. It will crumble with time. Always always add rebar to concrete.
I disagree. Especially 12" thick and nowhere for it to go.
Should put a 2’ level across the top of those tubes to ensure they aren’t tipping too much. You want a level finished surface on concrete piers.
I think the goal was to rush through it, get it built so he can sell it. I would even vibrate the air bubbles out of the concrete, not just poke the trowel into the top 3 inches.
I dug eight 18 inch diameter holes with a 1000 lb mini skid steer with auger bit, 40 inches deep (my county requires 30 inch depth minimum, which is the frost line in my area). I inserted 18 inch diameter sonotubes down to 30 inches, and left the remaining 10 inches in direct contact with the soil. I cut the tops of the sonotubes 5 inches above grade (mark with laser level, and cut with jigsaw). I built wooden frames out of 2x4s that I staked down around each sonotube, and used poultry wire staples to connect each sonotube to the wooden frame from inside the sonotube, to prevent it from moving during the pour. I built cages out of #4 rebar, and set them in the holes with rebar chairs on the bottoms. Passed footing inspection. I bought a 5 cu ft concrete mixer from Home Depot (cannot imagine mixing all that in a wheelbarrow!), and have poured six out of the eight piers so far with 4000 psi concrete. Each pier is taking sixteen 60 lb bags! Home Depot dropped the pallets of concrete in my back yard, so I just use a Gorilla Cart wagon to move bags to where I'm pouring. I built a chute out of scrap wood so I can pour directly into each hole instead of having to move concrete from the mixer to the hole (no wheelbarrow or shovel needed!). I also picked up a concrete vibrator from Harbor Freight. Thing works amazing. I'm sore as hell. Taking the day off tomorrow (supposed to rain), but I'll finish up on Monday.
beastmode
No adjustment once poured, I was confused on what you meant by adjustable. That would be cool if you could though!! Nice work I can wait to see the finished product!
They are adjustable. I have done it once now that the home has loaded the piers
Devon great job on all of your projects. You know what you are doing. FYI they make another threaded connector similar to what you used but the threaded rod has a J-hook at the end that anchors into the concrete to prevent lift. You place them in while concrete is wet and then later the U-bean bracket is connect to the end and you have two washers and nuts for leveling.
Thank you! I stumbled across your video just as I'm about to start a solo project and, coincidentally, you're doing it in the same dimensions as me. And I was wondering how I was going to find water... In short, you've answered all my questions!!!
Civil Engineer here, and others have probably mentioned it, but this isn't really how these sonotubes are meant to be used. These are primarily meant for the above-ground forming for concrete columns to support elevated structures.
By leaving the smooth forms in the ground they will eventually decompose and become a cardboard mush. This means there is almost no friction between the soil and the concrete. For short piers like this, skin friction is a pretty small portion of the gravity load carrying capacity, but if you're ever doing longer piers, or you have to deal with significant uplift resistance, doing this will reduce the capacity by a lot.
Next time I would suggest just using the sonotube as above-ground formwork. The only exception would be places with big frost heave potential. In those cases you do specifically want to reduce friction in the frost zone, to let the soil shrink and swell on its own without pushing the foundation. But even in those cases, you need to have at least equal length below the frost depth to "hold" the pier against the frost effects. And that deeper portion should definitely be poured against the natural soil.
The benefit is, you save money by not having to buy as many sonotube materials, and your foundation is stronger. The downside is you will probably need more concrete to fill the entire hole and not just the clean tube. But if you're saving $10 not buying a long tube for each pier, and you're using 1 extra $5 bag of concrete, you're probably still coming out ahead. On bigger jobs you'd get an auger that is the exact size of the hole you need, and not waste anything.
Overall, I'd say this foundation isn't going anywhere. It'll still outlast the house construction materials by decades. Good job.
@@nicholashudson5020 great points here. I'll be using these tips on future projects!
In the moment that I was just think, o look this young man and all those "influencer" and you say... I have a lot of views and no subscribers, so I think that was like telepathy, few days ago i criticize some youngsters in what they are in to and something about falce idols and etc..they probably were angry may be crying but it was hurtful truth. You are bright young man and you are literally showing how to live. I would glad to subscribe and like your video. I recommend every youngster to like your video nor they are living in town or village because in life you dont knowe where you will end up. Keep going man!
I'm having trouble seeing how those anchors adjust. I would think the threaded rod would go through the plate to allow you to adjust up and down, but it looks like it's attached at the bottom with no hole in the plate. Gotta watch the next video to see how.
A large shopvac makes easy work of getting fill out of the bottom of those holes. Quick and easy on the body.
Thank your lucky stars, man.
Mine are all jackhammered into sub- surface boulders. Strong as can be but a lot of work.
I like the sleeves though !👍
highly recommend the Harbor Tool mixer... i did 30 thousand pounds in mixing for retaining block wall, foundations, and 20 by 15 patio slab,,, good job on your work
For all those arrogantly commenting about every little thing he did wrong, this guy was an engineer for a living, and now he’s doing what many of you do for a living: building structures.
He can do what you do, but you can’t do what he does.
You’re not on his level bro.
Lol keep telling yourself that. The engineers in my city would never issue a permit for this foundation.
@@crosisofborg5524 😂 did you watch the video? He was a software engineer. Your brain didn’t pick up on that did it? 😂
you could run strings from tube to tube, level them and mark where to cut, so later you dont need to custom cut your posts
That woulda been a good idea. I just finished framing the posts yesterday unfortunately. Trying to get base framing video out a week from now!
@@devonloeropbut now you could try it in your next project 😅
I went through the same process as you a few years ago when I built a structure in the middle of the woods. I laughed when you showed the clip of going to the river for water. I had to do the same exact thing since I don't have a well yet.
hahah yeah... gotta do what you gotta do.
Thanks for the informative video. Nicely produced. Could you please explain one thing for me. How does the nut adjust the bracket up and down if the threads are set in concrete. Thanks
Really enjoying seeing the progress. Thanks for the videos. I would make one recommendation and that is to not play the in-between music soooo loud.
Can't wait to see it develop
Keep watching it's all done!
Always look forward to your videos
I appreciate that!
Great energy, very pleasant. Great job
Can you provide a little more info about permits and regulations? Like did you hire ana rchitect to submit plans to the city, or did you do it yourself? Also, did you need permits for septic and water? :)
This is the part that has me interested as well. I have never seen anywhere in the US that allows residential structure over 200 square feet to be built without permitting.
@@Behine.DeChilisunincorporated towns are the easiest. My county only requires septic and electrical permits. That's it.
Love seeing your project come to life.
Thanks!!!
Thank you for your brilliant video. I plan on buying a tiny home but have no idea about foundation.
Glad you enjoyed it! I have the plans for this home online at Thepacificbin.com/plans and if you use code CEDAR60 you get 60% off the set! Hopefully that helps, it has all of the details you could need for building a tiny home!!
I’m curious, no rebar needed?
I’m working on my shed foundation. It’s only 192sq feet, I’m doing 4 16’ skids attached to piers for a total of 20. I don’t need a permit for this build, but they do say I need to do minimum of 24” deep 8” pier. I’m going 28” deep and I’m doing rebar, maybe overkill? 🤔🤷🏻♂️
Why no permit? I live in Washington state also.
such an underrated channel
how do you plan on fine adjusting the anchor bolts that are set in concrete?
He can't. The nut and on the threads is the tighten the the bolt to the concrete. Washer bears directly on the concrete. These are not adjustable
Such an awesome video and excellent n lot if work!!! Congrats!!
You realize that you can never adjust those post anchors. The thread is imbeaded in the concrete so when you turn that bolt it will not move. You should of sleeved the treads or Atleast taped them slowing them to slide up
Thank you I didn't have to comment.
He did though in the next video
The bolts aren’t that set up in the concrete and aren’t very deep so when he adjusts them the bolts will pull up through the concrete. There won’t be any protection from uplift since the bolts are just sitting in a hole in the concrete and could essentially be lifted straight out. Unless he’s in tornado alley or in an earthquake zone I doubt it will be an issue. I personally would not use that system.
@@cabinman I see what you mean
@@cabinman They aren't rated for #1 non-top supported structures #2 to be adjusted after set or set after the concrete has dried they need adhesive #3 the weight capacity isn't sufficient for 12 of those for that size cabin with snow loads, snow loads are as much as 21 pounds per square foot. This is why the structure and foundation should be engineered. It's the same as supporting the entire structure on just four (4) 2.25 inch (two and one fourth inch square or round) steel posts.
They are this product and you can see all the specs on the manufacturer website including the load bearing capacity.
Simpson Strong-Tie EPB 4-in x 4-in Hot-dipped Galvanized Wood To Concrete (Cast In Place) Base
Item #1944512 |
Model #EPB44PHDG
How important is it to get those metal anchors perfectly vertical? If you put a pole in the metal support then surely even a 1/2 degree error will result in the top of the pole being off by many cm?
A lazer level would help you so so much in making your piles level. That would save you tons of hassle down the road.
5:42 I have a saying I always use when I run into that one troubled 'whatever' in the job process... "there's always one that just has to ruin it for the rest". 😅
I may have missed it in the video, but I'm just curious what size of area is this 12x16? I'm looking at doing something similar but for a shed and not sure how many piers I actually need.
You Crack me up but I'm getting this watching you. This is what I'm also doing.
Great job
Crazy how you have to gand dig it even with that machine
Did you pour the concrete on all holes before putting in the anchors?
Hey very informative video 2 questions... why do you go so deep? Is it because of frost line?
And second is there no rebar required for this column
You're amazing! How did you make sure all the holes were in line before you used the sting?
Also how did you make sure all the concrete was level with one another?
Piers don't have to be leveled, since anchors can be adjusted.
and posts can be cut at different lengths@@antoniorivera3950
Love your content man, it's so informative! Question, you had mentioned about 3 months ago you were making a video about how you grew your following. Is that video gonna drop soon?!
Great video! How long did you wait from pouring concrete to wet setting the anchors?
Can I use this method to reinforce and repair a foundation? For a pier and beam foundation?
Hi Devon - I don't know if you would still respond to this, but you mentioned you did a load calculation, I'm not sure how to do one. I want to build a room that is 20' by 30' (600 sq ft) and use 12 pillars as you did with a 12" diameter, 3' deep and 1' above grade - how do I know if that's enough - since yours was only 400 sq ft?
What does building this unpermited mean? Is this legal?
My city allows me to build a second building on my property of no more than 200 square feet unpermitted. The number of buildings allowed is determined by my lot size. I'd say if he has acreage he's probably allowed something much larger than I am.
In PA and perhaps some other states, you can ask for a waiver for a recreational cabin for personal use. But I can't imagine those would be allowed to rent out. The liability risks of renting out unpermitted buildings are scary.
How is the bolt gonna turn and come up when it was wet set?
That’s anchors your using to hold the beams?
Nice work
Great series, so did you space the beams 6' or 7' apart? I've seen people space them 8' to line up right on the floor rim board. I'm trying to figure which is best, I like the idea of overhang like you did. How much over hang will your floor have over your beams? Thanks so much!
It was roughly 1'. I kept the beams in because I knew it wasn't going to be perfectly straight with piers so I could then extend the floor joists and have a little flexibility to square it all off
Good point! Didn't think about that.@@devonloerop
id probably dry pour the first couple bags in each hole and mix in the hole then mix the last couple bags to pour on top
11:03 Anchor thread length? I thought they had to go super deep into concrete. Also could you have maybe used dual bolt vertical anchors, (where one of the bolts is adjustable under the plate) set with resin or concrete, then the height would be adjustable? Idk 🤷♀️ watching from the UK after binge watching @oakwoodgardenrooms builds.
Also watching you lift the walls into place on another video, I was on the edge of my seat! 😱 The trusses were bowing 😱 good luck in all your endeavors 👍
They are this product and you can see all the specs on the manufacturer website including the load bearing capacity.
Simpson Strong-Tie EPB 4-in x 4-in Hot-dipped Galvanized Wood To Concrete (Cast In Place) Base
Item #1944512 |
Model #EPB44PHDG
thats the softest digging ive ever seen
Interesting, I always thought those anchors were installed to dry Conkrete
Holy Devon you are an actual CHAMP brother. That was an insane video, huge work, love the videos. Double checked to make sure I'm subbed just incase xD and I definitely am
Can't wait for the next one!
Hahahah thanks Andrew! I just finished my budget breakdown timeline now I gotta film it!!
What are the dimensions of the house?
400SF 28x14
Can you please help me with a question about piers? How do I know what diameter each pier needs to be? We have no permits where I live. My room addition will be 24'x14'. Can't seem to get a straight answer on this. Thanks a bunch!
Unfortunately you're going to have to reach out to an engineer for specifications.
how many feet apart are the pillars?
Power auger , good
No level , bad
No re-bar , bad
Total clown act. Give him a thumbs down. This is horrible
No rebar ?
While this might be a cheap way to do a foundation, it is definitley the most labor intensive. Footers with a back hoe and poured concrete with a pump is the least amount of labor, just use the equipment.
Why is it unpermitted?
Hmmm so you are doing 18x24.
1 story plus roof, that’s calculation for 75psi.
That should be around 3600 total load.
Each beam should be (2)1-1/4 x 9-1/4 LVL or (3)2x12. Spaced at 6ft would be (2)2x12.
That sonotube better be filled w/concrete at 3500 psi
Thanks for posting the load/psi numbers. I’d like to go up to a second floor using the base area of 18’x24’. Any recommendations? Thinking 15 sonotubes but not sure on the type of concrete? Also, can the adjustable anchors handle the weight of over time?
@@sleeperpick86 3500 psi concrete is fine. Going 2 floors my assumption would be running 3 rows of 3 footings at equal distance along the 24ft length.
(reminder: get a local engineer/architect to work with you)Rest the beams on those footings and using a microllam you're looking at (2)1-3/4 x 9-1/2 with 2x8 joists and 4" lvl posts w/ (2)1-3/4 x 9-1/2 spanning 12ft for your floor above. Otherwise you're looking at (3)2"x12" to (4)2"x12" regular lumber .
Then you need to worry about shear walls, uplifting, etc.
P.S. I meant to write psf and not psi. Autocorrect probably did that.
If you want a crash course for calculating loads, draw a rectangle and trace a line in the middle. That line is what we will be calculating for as a beam. So, the weight that beam will bear is going to be half the distance to each side.
In other words, it will be 4.5' to the right and 4.5' to the left. So, we add those two number to get the tributary length width = 9 ft.
Then, we need to get the total load which is calculated in pounds per linear foot(plf). So, you multiply the 9ft by 50 psf which is the weight of a living space floor per square foot = 9ftx50psf = 450 psf.
To that total load we need to add a safety factor of 25%. Therefore, we multiply 450psf x 1.25 = 563 plf which is the total load on that beam.
Now, you get your charts and base that on the longest span from footing to footing. Since we said we were going to do 3 footings along the 24ft length, we will be dividing that space into 2 equal lengths. So it will be 24ft/2 = 12ft.
Look up in your charts from google what microllam or regular lumber can support a floor weight of at least 563plf at 12ft span.
*Always consult your local professional structural engineering before attempting to do any work yourself*
@@sleeperpick86 oh and to answer your question, yes, those post base connectors will do fine but you want to rest the beams on top of the footings. So, make your footings go higher and if going with heavy beams, do 16" diameter sonotubes. For decks, 4x4 posts are fine.
Hi, I love the video! I’m doing a 16x32 tiny home, home many pillars should I do? And how many pounds were your bags of concrete mix?
You deserve that harbor freight mixer.
😬
pier and beam 400sqft no crawlspace concrete piers
Bro what is the model on the dingo and where did you purchase for under 600 dollars? Thanks.
It's rented, not bought
I see you didn’t use a lever for tubes. Is that alignment crucial
it is crucial, I did use levels for that as well, just cant see in timelapse
I learned years ago... If it's more than ten bags of concrete to mix up then rent the good mixer. Life's too short for that sh!t.
Yeah... I have hand mixed 200+ 80lb bags on this build so far 😅
I hope everyone realizes that you’re not getting the air out of a 4-6 foot cylinder of concrete by dunking half the trowel in the top part. Idk how much the structure will weigh but putting zero reinforcement in that concrete seems insane…even fiber fill, hardware cloth or wire fencing would’ve been worth the minor cost for peace of mind.
Not sure I would ever wear shorts while doing construction, but good work on the video.
You dug 4 ft holes but only cut tubes so short? Whatbwere the sitting on
the rod w/ steel plate on it u r driving thru the concrete will not resist lateral force strong earthquake will topple it down..
is rebar not needed? asking cause im thinking of doing this too
Don’t you need rebar???
Chicken claws foot foundation also the best option
It is too bad you did not rent a Mud Mixer which is a continuous cement mixer with a spiral auger mixer all you do is keep feeding bags of cement mix in the top hopper and it keeps spitting out mixed concrete. It also lets you adjust the water amount so you get the proper slump once it is dialed in.
Animal Protest! Lol😂 that Robin earlier? Was it nesting season when you did the driveway? Heard horrible stories about Rabbit nests in grass then someone mows😭
Devon do you think this foundation is good for a container homes as well?
Where do you store all your tools?
audio is not mixed properly gets way too loud
What the size of the foundation? I wonder if a regular slab wouldn't have been cheaper (poured with a concrete truck)? We pay 250CAD/m3 delivered. I poured a 12'x16' chicken coop with rebar for under 1000CAD (had about 4 m3 of concrete). Would a concrete truck been able to go there?
I can't get a truck up there.
@@devonloerop Ok then it makes sense. Should be a decent foundation!
Time to set up a trail cam
No rebar