I totally understand why you’re “Dr.Deck” I’ve never seen anyone that seen anyone that knows so many details about their craft than Dr.Deck. I’m a 62 years old grandmother and have build my own 8x10 raised deck and I have made so many mistakes that made if so obvious watching your videos. I have taken it apart many times before my final completion to fix my errors. Biggest problem I have had is my deck boards always came out off after cutting and wasted so much wood, I have finally figured that it’s my miter saw it is set at a slant so nothing would match end to end. Thanks for all you tips.
Been using those bit holders for a while now. I love them too. Although I like the colors. If you buy GRK star drive, the colors of the bits match the holder! Love having my T-10, 15, 20, and 25 right at my hip when installing cabinetry
I've been using those Simpson Strong Tie 3 inch and 1 1/2 inch nails. A buddy of mine brought some of those Simpson structural screws and it was a world of a difference. Less noisy from the hammer banging between 16 inch center-to-center joists, faster to set with impact driver. I was thinking of using a palm nailer for my structural nails but I can see one main advantage of the screw types...removal if needed down the road. The nails are TOUGH to remove from that corner it is most likely set in. Thanks again for a great video.
I'm building my deck/sunroom and LOVE your channel for learning the process. But nope... won't attempt these stairs. WAY past my pay grade lol. I do love how you pay attention to the details... it matters.
Scratched my head at Lowed trying to figure this out. Almost made the mistake of getting zinc plated ones. You need to use the stainless steel or mechanically galvanized ones for exterior use.
Subbed. I love the perfection and potential “overbuilding” as I’m known for the same lol. I’d rather have it over secured then have an issue five years down the line
@drdecks - Great to see you using the Stainless Bolts. Those are hard to come by and most think the dipped galvanized are fine for outdoors and they are not. 2 questions though, 1st, the Simpson website recommends using a carbide bit that is the same as the "nominal" width of the Titen bolt. You mentioned you are using a 1/2" bit, is the bolt you are setting a 1/2" bolt or 5/8's? Second question, It looks like you didnt use a washer or bearing plate at all. Im assuming this is because this specific 4x4 wont have any racking or lift on it as you may have with a larger deck or covered pavilion? Would you reccomend using a bearing plate for those purposes? Thanks! Great Videos.
Another informative video - thanks! Questions on the concrete pad - how long do you wait after pouring before drilling? Have you ever had a crack in the pad due to wedge expansion or threading on the bolts? I've been thinking of using epoxy to avoid any cracking issues that might occur from wedge anchors in particular.
Dang, I just asked the same question. Guess I should have read all of the comments first. Thanks for the help!!!!! Great channel! Wish you were over in Kitsap County.
As much as I get that one wants matched fasteners for strength, galvanic corrosion, and chemical stability with pressure treated wood, it's no surprise those fasteners come at a huge profit margin.
Good luck finding those Titen HD 5/8" screws (the diameter which Simpson Strong-Tie recommends for those ABA post mounts) in galvanized or stainless anywhere locally. Additionally, ordering them requires about a week for delivery and they seem to only sell them in packs of 10 or greater for $70+ (I only need 4). After two days of frustratingly trying to find a few individual screws in the length I needed in Atlanta and any websites with fast delivery, I gave up and just bought some 1/2" Tapcons, since I'm just proactively replacing some old 4x4s with 6x6s under a ledger board/joist intersection, where uplift isn't even remotely a concern.
curved stairs, oh what fun. framing all your treads one at a time, instead of using a riser board. Wondering about your code requirements to tied the stairs together, since the only real support is the 4x4 to the concrete. I don't see a beam supporting your tread? The 1-1/2 screws are the required SDS for that Simpson post base, not longer. I also prefer screws over nailing for most connectors. Hey, what is that hood you are using behind your miter saw? The composite saw dust is terrible and toxic, hard to keep it out of the dirt and garden!
I'm getting ready to build my first deck. The deck will be 2ft. off the ground and all the vertical posts won't be visible. Is the sonotube needed like you used here with this bracket, or can I just make the concrete level with grade in a clean hole made with an auger post hole digger?
I’m doing something similar, but definitely not as fancy. Was wondering how long the concrete footing needs to cure before it can be (should be) drilled?
How much weight can you put on those brackets for instance that I was using a 6 x 6 post for a deck that’s supporting a porch what would be the total weight for one of those brackets?
Q. If your customer wants to enclose that staircase to the ground, how do you do that with your concrete post sitting above the ground and outside of where the stair skirting would be?
I really like the ABU brackets a lot more, its a mich more stout bracket, its just a shame they so much money, triple the cost of the bracket you used.
Im a total DIYer and I’m currently in the planning stages of building my first deck. I’m enjoying your vids as a nice resource. So thanks!
Awesome, thank you!
I totally understand why you’re “Dr.Deck” I’ve never seen anyone that seen anyone that knows so many details about their craft than Dr.Deck. I’m a 62 years old grandmother and have build my own 8x10 raised deck and I have made so many mistakes that made if so obvious watching your videos. I have taken it apart many times before my final completion to fix my errors. Biggest problem I have had is my deck boards always came out off after cutting and wasted so much wood, I have finally figured that it’s my miter saw it is set at a slant so nothing would match end to end. Thanks for all you tips.
Glad you got something from our channel!
I really love your concepts of overbuilding. I’ll bet those stairs are solid. Thank you for your professionalism and showing how you plan ahead. 👍
Bro, I'm so glad you survived that explosion 😅. Awesome video my guy
That’s all @djstudioman
This is great and timely - just waiting on my permit!
Wow, torqued a bolt into cement! I've seen it all. That worked really well, thanks for sharing!
Been using those bit holders for a while now. I love them too.
Although I like the colors. If you buy GRK star drive, the colors of the bits match the holder!
Love having my T-10, 15, 20, and 25 right at my hip when installing cabinetry
I've been using those Simpson Strong Tie 3 inch and 1 1/2 inch nails. A buddy of mine brought some of those Simpson structural screws and it was a world of a difference. Less noisy from the hammer banging between 16 inch center-to-center joists, faster to set with impact driver. I was thinking of using a palm nailer for my structural nails but I can see one main advantage of the screw types...removal if needed down the road. The nails are TOUGH to remove from that corner it is most likely set in. Thanks again for a great video.
My favorite deck building youtube channel!
Great video man. You have taught me a lot over here in Detroit. Keep it going.
I love it when everything comes together. Excellent presentation. Excellent job. And very entertaining. SOTHC (sound of two hands clapping).
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks, it really helps to know the installation process during an inspection
I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for sharing!
Glad you like them!
I'm building my deck/sunroom and LOVE your channel for learning the process. But nope... won't attempt these stairs. WAY past my pay grade lol. I do love how you pay attention to the details... it matters.
Are those Simpson Titan HD screws rated for exterior? The only ones I could find are rated interior or temporary exterior.
Scratched my head at Lowed trying to figure this out. Almost made the mistake of getting zinc plated ones. You need to use the stainless steel or mechanically galvanized ones for exterior use.
So, you used 1/2" concrete drill, for how bg of a screw? I did not hear. Was it 5/8"?
Wow , awesome. Ty for the information
How did you build those stairs shown in the video? Are those boxes that are just stacked?? Thanks
Subbed. I love the perfection and potential “overbuilding” as I’m known for the same lol. I’d rather have it over secured then have an issue five years down the line
Pro status , thank you for information
that bit holder key ring looks awesome. Where do you get that?
@drdecks - Great to see you using the Stainless Bolts. Those are hard to come by and most think the dipped galvanized are fine for outdoors and they are not. 2 questions though, 1st, the Simpson website recommends using a carbide bit that is the same as the "nominal" width of the Titen bolt. You mentioned you are using a 1/2" bit, is the bolt you are setting a 1/2" bolt or 5/8's? Second question, It looks like you didnt use a washer or bearing plate at all. Im assuming this is because this specific 4x4 wont have any racking or lift on it as you may have with a larger deck or covered pavilion? Would you reccomend using a bearing plate for those purposes?
Thanks! Great Videos.
Learned a heap. Thanks
Another informative video - thanks! Questions on the concrete pad - how long do you wait after pouring before drilling? Have you ever had a crack in the pad due to wedge expansion or threading on the bolts? I've been thinking of using epoxy to avoid any cracking issues that might occur from wedge anchors in particular.
3 days on the footings. For a slab, I’d wait longer to install a wedge bolt or Titen bolts
Dang, I just asked the same question. Guess I should have read all of the comments first. Thanks for the help!!!!! Great channel! Wish you were over in Kitsap County.
clean work!
The Jack Black of deck builders!!!
As much as I get that one wants matched fasteners for strength, galvanic corrosion, and chemical stability with pressure treated wood, it's no surprise those fasteners come at a huge profit margin.
Good luck finding those Titen HD 5/8" screws (the diameter which Simpson Strong-Tie recommends for those ABA post mounts) in galvanized or stainless anywhere locally. Additionally, ordering them requires about a week for delivery and they seem to only sell them in packs of 10 or greater for $70+ (I only need 4). After two days of frustratingly trying to find a few individual screws in the length I needed in Atlanta and any websites with fast delivery, I gave up and just bought some 1/2" Tapcons, since I'm just proactively replacing some old 4x4s with 6x6s under a ledger board/joist intersection, where uplift isn't even remotely a concern.
Hey..im looking to put 4x4 pt posts onto a 3 1/4" concrete porch..whats the best way to do that...i cant use that long bolt you used. 11:42
curved stairs, oh what fun. framing all your treads one at a time, instead of using a riser board. Wondering about your code requirements to tied the stairs together, since the only real support is the 4x4 to the concrete. I don't see a beam supporting your tread? The 1-1/2 screws are the required SDS for that Simpson post base, not longer. I also prefer screws over nailing for most connectors. Hey, what is that hood you are using behind your miter saw? The composite saw dust is terrible and toxic, hard to keep it out of the dirt and garden!
Building my first deck. Discovered that Simpson has authorized fasteners for their brackets listed on their site.
Would those brackets work for fence posts? I'm thinking of mounting my fence posts in concrete, but want to keep the post away from soil contact.
I'm getting ready to build my first deck. The deck will be 2ft. off the ground and all the vertical posts won't be visible. Is the sonotube needed like you used here with this bracket, or can I just make the concrete level with grade in a clean hole made with an auger post hole digger?
I put a square of roofing shingle between the concrete and the post holder so the galvanized bracket wasn’t touching concrete
@ODLid1- Interesting, ive seen that in other countries in cold climates. Although 6:03 time-line on video, he checked with manufacturer.
It’s made to sit on concrete by design
What would you recommend for deck posts that land on uneven bedrock?
What type of lumber is being used? I see this in most of these videos. With the indents.
I’m doing something similar, but definitely not as fancy. Was wondering how long the concrete footing needs to cure before it can be (should be) drilled?
How much weight can you put on those brackets for instance that I was using a 6 x 6 post for a deck that’s supporting a porch what would be the total weight for one of those brackets?
The staircase seems massive. How tall is the 4x4 post you installed in the video?
Can I use this type of pedestal to support a garage opening frame?
It does help!
Thank you.
What is the story of the perforated lumber? Thanks
5 1/2 inch deep wedge anchors?
Why do you bother with that dust collection tent?
I'll be very interested to see how the temporary 2x4s get replaced
Q. If your customer wants to enclose that staircase to the ground, how do you do that with your concrete post sitting above the ground and outside of where the stair skirting would be?
Watch subsequent videos and our Instagram page to find your answer.
Var är din BJÖRNKLÄDER-tisha?
I rock Blaklader
I really like the ABU brackets a lot more, its a mich more stout bracket, its just a shame they so much money, triple the cost of the bracket you used.
you are one of me
Indeed … @11:11 She is nice and toit. 🔥🔥🔥
I am first.
It ain't a piano.😅
Im second 😂🎉