growing up building houses, we always set the string off the end posts with a single 2x4 - 1.5" - then we use another 2x4 to gauge alignment of intermediate posts - much easier than pulling out a tape & measuring 18". we did the same when straightening/bracing walls
I know a guy who put his floor joists running diagonal and it is solid as a rock. You did a tremendous job. I need to put a new back porch deck on this summer and will refer to this while doing it. Thank you for sharing.👍
Nice quality build, April! As an "old timer" carpenter/builder, There are 2 things I could ad for cost savings. One would be to paint 2 coats of fibered roof paint on the post ends. This will triple the life of the posts, especially here in wet Florida. Another would be to staple 2" strips of tar paper to the tops of the joists. I cut 3' lengths and attach them as the decking progresses so it is easy to reach out. I am amazed at how few builders do this, I think they just don't know about it or care about 10, 20 years down the road. I have torn off face split, rotted, and neglected deck boards to find near new joists protected this way, huge money saver.
@@ericmeissner8413 I like April; she is very innovative and needs these sponsors to make her business work. I want to offer these alternatives for regular folks with skinnier wallets so they can still produce a fine product.
I'm a novice and your helpful hints will help me accomplish many projects in the future. My father never knew this stuff, so I've had to learn as I attempt to fix up my cabin. Thank you for sharing. ✌️❤️🔨🪚
Awesome! 10 years ago I picked up my first tool! If I can do it, anyone can. As my experience and confidence increased I could then do more complex projects. Learn from your mistakes. Now, I feel I can tackle whatever I want. Enjoy the build and thanks for watching.
That tape measure is awesome! I"ve never seen one before, but now that I have, I can't believe ALL tape measures aren't marked top AND BOTTOM! Of course, after I get one, it'll probably just end up being one more tool I won't be able to find when I need it... :)
This is fantastic. Looks like you knocked out about half the work in the first video. Looking forward to the rest of the series! Finished project looks amazing (as always). Seeing how projects are completed in steps is so helpful. You build confidence in those who want to take on a project! Thank you!
I have the senco positive placement nail gun . Great tool. Joist tape is a great product as well. Been using it for 10 years now.i will say this though about the joist tape. I’ve demoed decks that were 35 years old and for the most part the majority of the old joists were discolored , but most were not rotted at all. Keep up the good work. I’ve been a carpenter since 1970.
That deck is just Gorgeous!!!! I am finishing mine up and I have really been working hard on my job and by the time I get off work, I am tired and haven't finished it. But, this has definitely inspired me to get it done!!! Your deck makes me wish that mine was bigger! Incredible work, April!
What a project! Really ambitious. Also love the efforts around the video editing and quality. The hard work on both show and the results are awesome. TY.
Hi April! My husband and you are such kindred spirits. He fell hard for you tonight with the outdoor showers and deck videos! Um. He waterproofed our under deck years ago in much the same way we saw you do so tonight (7.4.24) . And, there's way more but, that waterproofing method was crazy close! You ROCK, Woman! I can't even be jealous cuz, I enjoy your personality, carpentry skills and vibe as well. Thx, April!
Nice job. I think i would tape the tops of the joists before installation. That’s what i did for my kid’s treehouse. Saved a lot of time and was a lot easier. Keep up the great work!
Haven't seen you for a couple of years April. I see you're prospering nicely. Awesome project. And, you still have that signature wave. Don't lose that girl. Cheers
I built a 2-story play structure for my kids last summer that has an elevated deck. I considered using something like joist tape, but I ended up not doing it. However, I used Seal-Once penetrating waterproofing sealer on my joists and also my beams. I used a mix of non-PT yellow pine (for beams) and Douglas Fir for joists. I think the Seal-Once works really well, and I'd recommend it. I do think that joist tape might be more robust to prevent moisture from sitting on top of horizontal wood. However, in my application, I put a roof over my structure. I used clear, corrugated polycarbonate roofing. A little bit of condensation and wind-driven rain might get onto some horizontal members, but the roof over everything keeps out > 95% of the water, and I think this massively extends the lifetime. So I went with penetrating liquid waterproofing wood sealer rather than joist tape because I think joist tape looks kind of ugly when you can see it from below. If you have a rim joist (or is that a band joist?) and you cannot really see the sides of your joists then I think joist tape is a good idea.
Wow! What beautiful, meticulous attention to detail. Such a gorgeous end result. Lots of skill tips from a born teacher, too. Teach a person to catch a fish, and you feed them for a lifetime! Thank you so much.
Im not sure where you live, but pretty funny watching yii guus set those posts. I live in Canada. Stardard for us is 4' concrete in the ground and post on top. Thats our frost line. Neat to see different stuff.
Nice to see a well-engineered design using notched posts. I see so many deck builders who attach their beams onto posts using lag screws or carriage bolts. That makes for a weak, and dangerous, deck that could fail under heavy loads.
Good morning, April! Wow, what an undertaking! It looks pretty awesome so far and I can't wait to see the finished product! Thanks for sharing. Have a great week. God bless.
April my hat is off to you you've got to be one of the most impressive and multi-skilled person I have watched on RUclips! Allso you're a good-looking woman which is even more impressive I hope you don't find this offensive I just admire your work ethic and how you approach things. Truly inspiring, you are a hell of a go-getter I wonder what inspired you to work with woodworking was somebody in your family a woodworker?
im also building my own deck from scratch and thought about vlogging the result...including EVERY penny ive spent on even the smallest fastener. the ABSOLUTE most important part of building a deck DIY is having someone to help.
It is a nice looking project. I would recommend adding columns mid span of the existing exterior beam. You are doubling the load on the beam with the deck extension. It is also better (required by code in most locations) to use a concrete footing with a pedestal that extents at least 8" above grade. It is okay to bury fence posts but not columns for decks and houses. Big Foot for the footings is a good product for decks like this.
Plus that existing outer beam that the new joists are resting on is attached to side of existing post. That beam lacks underneath support from post, an important feature you used on the new posts.
does notching the joist compromise it? instead of it being a 2*10 wouldn't it become a 2*8? i could understand if you were to support it where the notched ends with a hanger or support underneath that it would no longer compromise it. I'm no mean an engineer or a framer and know you have a lot more experience than me. Also i've been seen your facebook stories and was looking forward to this series on youtube. You are an inspiration, and i've been dealing with some stuff in my life, but i'm a master automotive mechanic and looking to get out of that trade, been wanting to get into wood working as a hobby and maybe possibly make it a career, i watched all your old videos and know you quit your job to do it full time and have seen you grow.
You are correct. The better way would have been to run a ledger and lag it into the beam. I applaud that she removed the existing rim joist instead of just bolting to it as I've seen many people do. Good catch. You would do well in engineering or framing to see that.
they maybe relying on the overlap of the upper decks 2 x 8's which the 2 x 10's are sistered to. The portion of the 2 x 8's cantilevered pass its beam. 8:18
@@ronw8628 You would need the cantilever to extend past the notch a couple of feet. Maybe more. Then face nail it with like 10 8d's. The issue is the bending moment occurs right at the minimum section and this doesn't alleviate that too much unless you can basically bear the joist 2 feet out from the notch off the end of the existing joists, to act as a support well past the notch to prevent tension force at the 8" section. I think the best solution would be to run long lag screws in from the back that can pull the bottom of the joist and keep the tension on the bottom. Like 12" lag screws with 8" embedded in the joist bottom. If you can introduce tension at the bottom of the joist, you allow the entire member to be used to it's full potential and remove the force that causes the splitting.
@AprilWilkerson thanks for the lesson. I love how confident you are...I hope you teach young girls in the trade. We need more like you as a mentor. I had to laugh at the end...you looked like you were being stalked by your drone camera...lol.
Dang !!! that's a big project. Wife likes the idea. Perhaps, I can get my financial advisor(wife) to let me buy a new table saw as part of job expenses. You always good instructions on how to. I think every part of Texas is different, so it's always good to mention soil conditions, that always explains some of the why we do things, the way we do. My part of Texas is hard clay. I am close to SPI .
Years ago when I first heard about waterproofing membranes, none of the deck builders around me knew about it or would put it in, calling it dumb. I ended up buying it on my own and applying it on in the evenings after they were done framing. I also added hurricane ties.
Fantastic deck. Here in Atlantic Canada we're told not to bury posts at all, and also not to tape joists unless the decking boards are composite, as water will pool and rot the decking boards faster.
One very important thing you did correctly that should be mentioned, is add a 2x6 to the face of the beam to support the underside of the notched 2x10's. The added piece's are shown in the view at 13:05. When you first slid them in beside the old 2x8's with the underside notched out, I was horrified, because that notch actually makes the 2x10 even WEAKER than the 2x8, unless the bottom is fully supported. I breathed a sigh of relief when I saw that was done at 13:05 and give you a thumbs up for completing a not-so-obvious but very critical engineering detail.
The code governing wood design allows an end-bearing notch of up to 1/4 the depth of the joist without reduction in the bending strength for the member. You do have to reduce the shear capacity, but long joists like this are almost always controlled by the bending stress and not by the shear at the ends.
that was my thought as I saw her sliding the 8 ends of the 2x10s in alongside the 2x8s. I see she did put a supporting board along the bottom of the 2x10s but it looks like a 2x4 and would prefer the 2x6 or even 8
Great project. I am curious how heavy that Semco nailer is. It looks cumbersome and would probably tire someone out with repetative use. Is that true???
I always enjoy your videos, April. You do make me nervous though when you toenail the opposite side of the joist into the beam, while pointing the gun toward yourself.
Thanks! Yes, I have many Viewers who aren't Makers or Builders but enjoy my channel for the entertainment factor. They like to see what I'm up to now. :) Thanks for watching.
Great video. One of the best ones I’ve seen on this topic. Very clear and to the point. Lots of details that others leave out or bury in their videos. I actually have some questions though. Do I have to use a six by six for my post if my deck is only a few inches off the ground?
I'm looking to build a deck and this video is the first of yours that I watched, and I'm probably going to watch all of your deck vids. Would it have been easier/feasible to apply the joist tape *before* the joists were attached, while they were on the ground, so you weren't leapfrogging up and down each joist? Thanks!
@April Wilkerson - Can we do this same thing if the patio is raised? I live in a house that was built in the early 1960s by my Grandparents. They added a patio on the back of the house that is about 18 in off ground level. The "slab" is about 8 in thick and seems to only be supported around the outside by concrete blocks underneath. We cannot see any further under to see if there is support in the middle. We would like to add a larger deck because this has crazy measurements (it's like a bowling alley). We would like to go over the cement and extend and use composite decking. Can this be done without busting out the cement slab? Also, we live in Illinois, so would have to deal with frost/thaw and heaving. Love the channel! I swear I have bunged everything. LOL! I have a list now. Thank you for any help!
For posts and joists you would never see why not just char them for anti rot and bug infiltration? Nordic countries and Asia have been doing it for thousands of years with many structures still standing. Save a lot of time versus tape and sleeves especially as you already have the propane burner. Maybe try it on a smaller future project?
I enjoy all your videos April. However, I especially enjoy your MASSIVE projects! I like that you show the details of the build. Along with explaining the tools that you use. 😃👏
I thought that was a Hawk or some other large bird off your left shoulder at the end, nope just a drone. Project looks almost as good as you do. And that's pretty good.
just finished building the wood deck around my BBQ shed. I would use mark down lumber from, home depot and my local lumber yard. I am old school used old oil from the tractor shop coat the post. I bought the harbor freight 3 yard mixer, works great
You guys rocked this deck out real proper like! I watched this build from beginning to now and it was very awesome to see it come together. Well done🤙🏾💯
The notch cuts in your 2x10 joists negate the strength of the extra 2". It even opens up more failure modes through whatever grain line of that 2" is the weakest, while also moving closer to the weaker heartwood. I've seen joist hangers still used in this case and the leftover bits folded over the top of the beam. This makes sure the bottom of the joist is supported which carries the majority of the tension when under load.
she explained sistering 2 x 10's to the cantilevered ends of the 2 x 8's should provide the strength 8:18. I gather if the 2 x 8's weren't there than she wouldn't notch the ends of the 2 x 10's. Top-flange hangers (for engineered joist) would be ideal but they don't make them in 2-in heights at the saddle. How about nailing vertical 2 x 4's under the 2 x 10's? A ledger would provide the same support but expensive.
In the shallower section of the deck, she uses 2x8 joists. I suspect the deeper section of the deck needed the strength of a 2x10 to handle the additional deck span. Notching the 2x10 joists did allow her to sister them to the pre-existing joists as you point out, but it also significantly compromises their strength as ssuggi suggests (I.e., effectively turning the into very expensive 2x8s). At this point, I would recommend either adding joist hangers to catch the last 2” or, as you suggest, add additional blocking underneath.
She could use same 2x8’s and add additional structural support mid span. Also build the structural beams on the ground so they are secure. Cups facing in. Raise them into place.
The notched 2x10 actually isn't an issue in this application and does not negate any strength of the system. The connection at the rim joist has zero tension stress and only has shear stress. The 2x8 and notch 2x10 essentially create a double 2x8 and are redundant. They would then double the shear capacity at this joint. Also, there is zero bending moment at this connection and therefore zero tension and sistering the notched 2x10 to the 2x8 will prevent any pull away of the new joist from the old joists. The additional 2" provided by the 2x10 will add strength at the midspan and will help minimize sag or "bounce" in the deck once finished. I understand this is counterintuitive, but adding a hanger isn't necessary (although it wouldn't hurt anything).
if you seal the bottom then it traps moisture which can cause frost heave which can crack the footings. Whats more of a concern is the depth of the footings. They're way too shallow.
Beautiful work and great video. Thank you so much. I will be hiring someone but I want to know how things should be properly done myself before hiring someone. Your knowledge is much appreciated thank you for sharing.
April did you consider doing the whole deck and framing with screws? I am doing that on mine. I must say, it makes for a very secure build but it definitely is slower!
Where you notched your new joist at the "old" carrying beam, I always like to put a 2x4 ledger under the new lumber, nailed to the old beam. This way as the new lumber dries, if it starts to split at the notch, the 2x4 will carry the entire height of the board, and will usually prevent the joist from splitting down it's entire length.
Awesome job as usual April. A little tip that makes putting the joist tape on when working on an elevated deck, is to apply the tape to the joists before putting them in place. Big time saver and much safer.
That kinda reminds me of shrink tubing but for wooden posts? Never saw this one coming...good job and what an awesome deck! There's one in my future so thanks for that too.
Yeah I’m not sure how well that shrink stuff will actually work. Unless there’s an adhesive or something that’s making a literal waterproof seal at the top between the wrap and the wood, it’s probably just going to help some, but not much. A better solution would be to put the posts on top of the concrete with a post anchor that gets it off of the column, versus into the concrete underground. But I live in an area with tons of rain, so take that into account lol.
Cool looking deck. Quick framing tip. Instead of using a tape measure to measure away from a string line, instead use a carpenters pencil and sandwich it between the line and post at the beginning and end of the string line to bump the line out the width of the pencil. (I'm not saying 1/2" because I've found they now deviate from the old time standard) Then as you set posts you just make sure each post is exactly the width of a pencil from the line. Helps keep your hands free to make the micro adjustments to the post, use a level etc and quick check with the pencil rather than trying to wield a tape measure in that situation.
Great video! However, would it have worked to put the joist tape on before you put the joists up. In my mind it seems easier. Looking forward to the next video!
What is the difference between 1) putting the posts in the ground like in this video vs 2) Pouring the footing with an anchor bolt / drilling in anchor bolt then using post brackets?
12:08 one tip for you. Instead of stopping and measuring the distance between each joist, place the rim joist square up, then mark on center 16" in this case on the rim joist. Then just line up the mark and nail the joist home.
You don't need joist tape. It can only help that's a fair point but I've demo'd dozens of old decks and the pt lumber holds up for 30 years no problem. Only exception is if there's a 3 ply beam anywhere..I've seen the Rot badly from the middle ply outward because that piece can't dry sufficiently because it's sandwiched. I'd put zip tape over 3 ply beams and obviously flash the ledger properly
They don’t treat wood like they used too. Current regulations have reduced the effectiveness of treated wood in favor of the environment. Most deck wood is also garbage compared to 30 years ago so more prone to rotting. I would definitely use deck tape.
I love your videos and I just did my own cabinet doors, with pocket screws. Thanks for the encouragement. I spray the posts I set in the ground with automotive rust-proofing. I have no tests proving this is a good idea, I'll let you know in 20 years or so. The self stick looks good too, might try that next time. I've used joist tape since I read about it in Fine Homebuilding, a few years ago, seems like a nice idea and cheap insurance. I figure none of the joists I set in place, ove the years, have really seen any water at all.
That might only apply if you are in a climate where there is never snow and/or ice that would sit on the joists at the gap. Ergo, the tape is a good idea.
@@nonprogrediestregredi1711I've been building decks in the NorthEast for a long time and never once have I used tape. I haven't seen one deck fail yet. Pressure-treated wood is meant to get wet, not stay wet.
@jamesoncross7494 And I've been building decks for over thirty years in the upper Midwest, and I've never seen a deck fail either. But hey, that's irrelevant since I NEVER asserted that one did. Get it? You advocated for keeping the joists and decking DRY, to which I accurately stated that snow and/or ice can certainly sit in the gaps on the joists. In climates such as that, keeping that space dry is highly improbable in the winter months, which is contrary to your dryness hypothesis. I didn't say that the tape is a necessity, but that it is a good idea.
Hello there April, You are an amazing Builder. Would oyu have anyvideo's or plans for a lean to type shed? My dimensions are 12' X 4' X 9', tool shed with a slant roof. 9' in the back Slanting down to 8' in the front. Hope that makes sence.
growing up building houses, we always set the string off the end posts with a single 2x4 - 1.5" - then we use another 2x4 to gauge alignment of intermediate posts - much easier than pulling out a tape & measuring 18". we did the same when straightening/bracing walls
post wrap and joist tape are really smart! lil extra effort will add MANY extra years (as u said) probably will outlive the builder!!!
shortest and longest 16 minutes of my life. You went all in on the specialized tools and best lumber. It'll stand forever and look great
I know a guy who put his floor joists running diagonal and it is solid as a rock. You did a tremendous job. I need to put a new back porch deck on this summer and will refer to this while doing it. Thank you for sharing.👍
Thanks!
Nice quality build, April!
As an "old timer" carpenter/builder, There are 2 things I could ad for cost savings. One would be to paint 2 coats of fibered roof paint on the post ends. This will triple the life of the posts, especially here in wet Florida. Another would be to staple 2" strips of tar paper to the tops of the joists. I cut 3' lengths and attach them as the decking progresses so it is easy to reach out. I am amazed at how few builders do this, I think they just don't know about it or care about 10, 20 years down the road. I have torn off face split, rotted, and neglected deck boards to find near new joists protected this way, huge money saver.
Does your tar paper not rot?
@@kiwigrunt330 No, I've used 60# or 90# and never had an issue with it.
This is the difference between an amateur and a professional.
@@ericmeissner8413 I like April; she is very innovative and needs these sponsors to make her business work.
I want to offer these alternatives for regular folks with skinnier wallets so they can still produce a fine product.
I'm a novice and your helpful hints will help me accomplish many projects in the future. My father never knew this stuff, so I've had to learn as I attempt to fix up my cabin. Thank you for sharing. ✌️❤️🔨🪚
Awesome! 10 years ago I picked up my first tool! If I can do it, anyone can. As my experience and confidence increased I could then do more complex projects. Learn from your mistakes. Now, I feel I can tackle whatever I want. Enjoy the build and thanks for watching.
That tape measure is awesome! I"ve never seen one before, but now that I have, I can't believe ALL tape measures aren't marked top AND BOTTOM!
Of course, after I get one, it'll probably just end up being one more tool I won't be able to find when I need it... :)
Yankee black widow.. made by lufkin…
This is fantastic. Looks like you knocked out about half the work in the first video. Looking forward to the rest of the series! Finished project looks amazing (as always). Seeing how projects are completed in steps is so helpful. You build confidence in those who want to take on a project! Thank you!
Nice and instructive video, April. Thanks for sharing and greetings from Colombia.
That tip about the string line is top notch. Never would have thought of that even though I knew about the problem
I have the senco positive placement nail gun . Great tool. Joist tape is a great product as well. Been using it for 10 years now.i will say this though about the joist tape. I’ve demoed decks that were 35 years old and for the most part the majority of the old joists were discolored , but most were not rotted at all.
Keep up the good work. I’ve been a carpenter since 1970.
Awesome! That's great to hear. Thanks for Sharing and for watching.
That deck is just Gorgeous!!!! I am finishing mine up and I have really been working hard on my job and by the time I get off work, I am tired and haven't finished it. But, this has definitely inspired me to get it done!!! Your deck makes me wish that mine was bigger! Incredible work, April!
Thank you!
What a project! Really ambitious. Also love the efforts around the video editing and quality. The hard work on both show and the results are awesome. TY.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I really like how you did your deck, I like the way you notched out the 4x4s for your deck supports to sit on.
Hi April! My husband and you are such kindred spirits. He fell hard for you tonight with the outdoor showers and deck videos! Um. He waterproofed our under deck years ago in much the same way we saw you do so tonight (7.4.24) . And, there's way more but, that waterproofing method was crazy close! You ROCK, Woman! I can't even be jealous cuz, I enjoy your personality, carpentry skills and vibe as well. Thx, April!
Thanks! I'm glad you both enjoy my Channel. Thanks for watching.
Nice job. I think i would tape the tops of the joists before installation. That’s what i did for my kid’s treehouse. Saved a lot of time and was a lot easier.
Keep up the great work!
That is how I have done it in the past, the only thing is it is annoying to get blocking in there if you need it.
Haven't seen you for a couple of years April.
I see you're prospering nicely.
Awesome project.
And, you still have that signature wave.
Don't lose that girl.
Cheers
I'm never disappointed when I watch your work.
Aw thanks! I'm glad you enjoy my channel.
Iv watched you for years and years and I honestly think I just found the most impressive woman on RUclips.
I built a 2-story play structure for my kids last summer that has an elevated deck. I considered using something like joist tape, but I ended up not doing it. However, I used Seal-Once penetrating waterproofing sealer on my joists and also my beams. I used a mix of non-PT yellow pine (for beams) and Douglas Fir for joists.
I think the Seal-Once works really well, and I'd recommend it. I do think that joist tape might be more robust to prevent moisture from sitting on top of horizontal wood. However, in my application, I put a roof over my structure. I used clear, corrugated polycarbonate roofing. A little bit of condensation and wind-driven rain might get onto some horizontal members, but the roof over everything keeps out > 95% of the water, and I think this massively extends the lifetime. So I went with penetrating liquid waterproofing wood sealer rather than joist tape because I think joist tape looks kind of ugly when you can see it from below. If you have a rim joist (or is that a band joist?) and you cannot really see the sides of your joists then I think joist tape is a good idea.
Wow! What beautiful, meticulous attention to detail. Such a gorgeous end result. Lots of skill tips from a born teacher, too. Teach a person to catch a fish, and you feed them for a lifetime! Thank you so much.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoy my channel and find my projects useful. Thanks for watching.
Im not sure where you live, but pretty funny watching yii guus set those posts. I live in Canada. Stardard for us is 4' concrete in the ground and post on top. Thats our frost line. Neat to see different stuff.
Gosh who would have thought you could sit on a board and apply tape then move it AWESOME
geez you have a whole team
Finally a clamp shows up
Beautiful. I also love the fact that you literally get paid for improving your own home!
Nice to see a well-engineered design using notched posts. I see so many deck builders who attach their beams onto posts using lag screws or carriage bolts. That makes for a weak, and dangerous, deck that could fail under heavy loads.
Good morning, April! Wow, what an undertaking! It looks pretty awesome so far and I can't wait to see the finished product! Thanks for sharing. Have a great week. God bless.
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Hey April, It's good to see that even you use Harbor Freight tools! I have the same Pittsburg 6 ft level.
I saw the cleet under the joists, good job, that's a big job for two people especially so high
It certainly was a big project but so satisfying when finished. Thanks for watching.
In my part of nh we need a sono tube or Bigfoot 4 feet down and then attach the post with a post base above ground
Nice work April! Looking great! Excited to see the rest of this series. Thanks and be safe out there!
Thanks so much!
April my hat is off to you you've got to be one of the most impressive and multi-skilled person I have watched on RUclips!
Allso you're a good-looking woman which is even more impressive I hope you don't find this offensive I just admire your work ethic and how you approach things.
Truly inspiring, you are a hell of a go-getter I wonder what inspired you to work with woodworking was somebody in your family a woodworker?
Damn girl, you're full of knowledge! I love the idea of sloping the concrete footings and also the extendable speed square!
Looking good April, that's a fine looking deck you all are building. Keep up the great videos and thanks for sharing with us. Fred.
Thanks so much!
Love the step by step and the Lingle you used to make it very easy to follow directions. 👍👍👍
im also building my own deck from scratch and thought about vlogging the result...including EVERY penny ive spent on even the smallest fastener. the ABSOLUTE most important part of building a deck DIY is having someone to help.
I remember when she was building 1" x 12" pine shelves in her garage...you have come a very ling way, keep up the good work
Yes, it has been quite the journey to be sure! Thanks for staying along for the ride.
Thanks April, I just built the 1/2 picnic tables and they are fantastic!!
Awesome! Glad you like them. Thanks for watching.
Always admire your work. There's nothing you can't make it April. 🥰🥰
Thank you so much!
It is a nice looking project. I would recommend adding columns mid span of the existing exterior beam. You are doubling the load on the beam with the deck extension. It is also better (required by code in most locations) to use a concrete footing with a pedestal that extents at least 8" above grade. It is okay to bury fence posts but not columns for decks and houses. Big Foot for the footings is a good product for decks like this.
Plus that existing outer beam that the new joists are resting on is attached to side of existing post. That beam lacks underneath support from post, an important feature you used on the new posts.
Love the string line tip!!
Every girl who loves to build needs a Jacob. Mine is Keith!
I usually use a cut piece of wood for my spacers between my joists when I have several of them. Very nice project...
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
does notching the joist compromise it? instead of it being a 2*10 wouldn't it become a 2*8? i could understand if you were to support it where the notched ends with a hanger or support underneath that it would no longer compromise it. I'm no mean an engineer or a framer and know you have a lot more experience than me. Also i've been seen your facebook stories and was looking forward to this series on youtube. You are an inspiration, and i've been dealing with some stuff in my life, but i'm a master automotive mechanic and looking to get out of that trade, been wanting to get into wood working as a hobby and maybe possibly make it a career, i watched all your old videos and know you quit your job to do it full time and have seen you grow.
Yes for a load calculation it is considered to be only bearing on 8". Notch also creates a place for future splitting
@@CharlesSoden In that situation, the notch doesn't compromise the joist. Notches near the mid-span of the joist will compromise moment capacity.
You are correct. The better way would have been to run a ledger and lag it into the beam. I applaud that she removed the existing rim joist instead of just bolting to it as I've seen many people do. Good catch. You would do well in engineering or framing to see that.
they maybe relying on the overlap of the upper decks 2 x 8's which the 2 x 10's are sistered to. The portion of the 2 x 8's cantilevered pass its beam. 8:18
@@ronw8628 You would need the cantilever to extend past the notch a couple of feet. Maybe more. Then face nail it with like 10 8d's. The issue is the bending moment occurs right at the minimum section and this doesn't alleviate that too much unless you can basically bear the joist 2 feet out from the notch off the end of the existing joists, to act as a support well past the notch to prevent tension force at the 8" section. I think the best solution would be to run long lag screws in from the back that can pull the bottom of the joist and keep the tension on the bottom. Like 12" lag screws with 8" embedded in the joist bottom. If you can introduce tension at the bottom of the joist, you allow the entire member to be used to it's full potential and remove the force that causes the splitting.
@AprilWilkerson thanks for the lesson. I love how confident you are...I hope you teach young girls in the trade. We need more like you as a mentor.
I had to laugh at the end...you looked like you were being stalked by your drone camera...lol.
Whoa! Production quality is so high on this video, loving it!
Thank you!
We used to use 6 inch wide strips of roof felt to create a drip edge on the top of joists, etc. worked very well.
Dang !!! that's a big project. Wife likes the idea. Perhaps, I can get my financial advisor(wife) to let me buy a new table saw as part of job expenses. You always good instructions on how to. I think every part of Texas is different, so it's always good to mention soil conditions, that always explains some of the why we do things, the way we do. My part of Texas is hard clay. I am close to SPI .
Years ago when I first heard about waterproofing membranes, none of the deck builders around me knew about it or would put it in, calling it dumb. I ended up buying it on my own and applying it on in the evenings after they were done framing. I also added hurricane ties.
Fantastic deck. Here in Atlantic Canada we're told not to bury posts at all, and also not to tape joists unless the decking boards are composite, as water will pool and rot the decking boards faster.
Had same concern about the tape as well. This looks to be in a dry California location?
April. You gotta quit making this look so easy. The wife wants me to do this now
Well, I show step by step. Why don't you do it together and have fun with it? Thanks for watching.
Sounds like she’d love to help out with this particular project!
Dear wife. No problem, it will take a while to do, but it sure is possible. Well, of course, after I got all the needed tools... ☺
The crew she has helping her makes it look easy
😂😅😂😅
And to think she started out with doing some projects in her basement! April, you've come a long way! Great project, as always!
One very important thing you did correctly that should be mentioned, is add a 2x6 to the face of the beam to support the underside of the notched 2x10's. The added piece's are shown in the view at 13:05. When you first slid them in beside the old 2x8's with the underside notched out, I was horrified, because that notch actually makes the 2x10 even WEAKER than the 2x8, unless the bottom is fully supported. I breathed a sigh of relief when I saw that was done at 13:05 and give you a thumbs up for completing a not-so-obvious but very critical engineering detail.
The code governing wood design allows an end-bearing notch of up to 1/4 the depth of the joist without reduction in the bending strength for the member. You do have to reduce the shear capacity, but long joists like this are almost always controlled by the bending stress and not by the shear at the ends.
that was my thought as I saw her sliding the 8 ends of the 2x10s in alongside the 2x8s. I see she did put a supporting board along the bottom of the 2x10s but it looks like a 2x4 and would prefer the 2x6 or even 8
Great project. I am curious how heavy that Semco nailer is. It looks cumbersome and would probably tire someone out with repetative use. Is that true???
I always enjoy your videos, April. You do make me nervous though when you toenail the opposite side of the joist into the beam, while pointing the gun toward yourself.
Do I plan on ever building my own deck? No
Did I watch this entire video in awe? Absolutely
Thanks! Yes, I have many Viewers who aren't Makers or Builders but enjoy my channel for the entertainment factor. They like to see what I'm up to now. :) Thanks for watching.
Great video. One of the best ones I’ve seen on this topic. Very clear and to the point. Lots of details that others leave out or bury in their videos. I actually have some questions though. Do I have to use a six by six for my post if my deck is only a few inches off the ground?
I'm looking to build a deck and this video is the first of yours that I watched, and I'm probably going to watch all of your deck vids. Would it have been easier/feasible to apply the joist tape *before* the joists were attached, while they were on the ground, so you weren't leapfrogging up and down each joist? Thanks!
@April Wilkerson - Can we do this same thing if the patio is raised? I live in a house that was built in the early 1960s by my Grandparents. They added a patio on the back of the house that is about 18 in off ground level. The "slab" is about 8 in thick and seems to only be supported around the outside by concrete blocks underneath. We cannot see any further under to see if there is support in the middle. We would like to add a larger deck because this has crazy measurements (it's like a bowling alley). We would like to go over the cement and extend and use composite decking. Can this be done without busting out the cement slab? Also, we live in Illinois, so would have to deal with frost/thaw and heaving. Love the channel! I swear I have bunged everything. LOL! I have a list now. Thank you for any help!
Are women just better at everything School, building and the way she explains it is just so clear work makes sense
Aw thanks! I'm glad you find my videos useful. Thanks for watching.
For posts and joists you would never see why not just char them for anti rot and bug infiltration? Nordic countries and Asia have been doing it for thousands of years with many structures still standing. Save a lot of time versus tape and sleeves especially as you already have the propane burner. Maybe try it on a smaller future project?
I’m not sure, but I wouldn’t start burning any wood that had been chemically dipped.
I enjoy all your videos April. However, I especially enjoy your MASSIVE projects! I like that you show the details of the build. Along with explaining the tools that you use. 😃👏
I thought that was a Hawk or some other large bird off your left shoulder at the end, nope just a drone. Project looks almost as good as you do. And that's pretty good.
just finished building the wood deck around my BBQ shed. I would use mark down lumber from, home depot and my local lumber yard. I am old school used old oil from the tractor shop coat the post. I bought the harbor freight 3 yard mixer, works great
Thats a badass framing nailer. Senco makes great tools!
You guys rocked this deck out real proper like! I watched this build from beginning to now and it was very awesome to see it come together. Well done🤙🏾💯
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@AprilWilkerson I enjoy all of your videos April, You're awesome!!
WOW very very nice deck April! Can't wait to see the next one!
Thanks so much! Stay tuned.
Nice job. Never saw using the tape on joists. I'll go back and register fit item
So is there a reason why you would not use that joist tape on the joist support beams after they have been planed down to be level?
Great job as usual! Like all the details that you point out, materials, tools and techniques. Can’t wait for the next show.
Thank you very much! I'm glad you find my videos useful. Thanks for watching.
Wow snazzy new intro & finish 👍. You all have my dream job!!!
Thanks so much!!
Wonderful video and very educational .
Helpful for me since I need to change my deck .
Thanks 🙏
Awesome! Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
The notch cuts in your 2x10 joists negate the strength of the extra 2". It even opens up more failure modes through whatever grain line of that 2" is the weakest, while also moving closer to the weaker heartwood. I've seen joist hangers still used in this case and the leftover bits folded over the top of the beam. This makes sure the bottom of the joist is supported which carries the majority of the tension when under load.
she explained sistering 2 x 10's to the cantilevered ends of the 2 x 8's should provide the strength 8:18. I gather if the 2 x 8's weren't there than she wouldn't notch the ends of the 2 x 10's. Top-flange hangers (for engineered joist) would be ideal but they don't make them in 2-in heights at the saddle. How about nailing vertical 2 x 4's under the 2 x 10's? A ledger would provide the same support but expensive.
In the shallower section of the deck, she uses 2x8 joists. I suspect the deeper section of the deck needed the strength of a 2x10 to handle the additional deck span. Notching the 2x10 joists did allow her to sister them to the pre-existing joists as you point out, but it also significantly compromises their strength as ssuggi suggests (I.e., effectively turning the into very expensive 2x8s). At this point, I would recommend either adding joist hangers to catch the last 2” or, as you suggest, add additional blocking underneath.
She could use same 2x8’s and add additional structural support mid span. Also build the structural beams on the ground so they are secure. Cups facing in. Raise them into place.
The notched 2x10 actually isn't an issue in this application and does not negate any strength of the system. The connection at the rim joist has zero tension stress and only has shear stress. The 2x8 and notch 2x10 essentially create a double 2x8 and are redundant. They would then double the shear capacity at this joint. Also, there is zero bending moment at this connection and therefore zero tension and sistering the notched 2x10 to the 2x8 will prevent any pull away of the new joist from the old joists. The additional 2" provided by the 2x10 will add strength at the midspan and will help minimize sag or "bounce" in the deck once finished. I understand this is counterintuitive, but adding a hanger isn't necessary (although it wouldn't hurt anything).
A horizontal 2by4 nailed under the joists will fix it if required.
I don't get how that sleeve will work if the bottom is still exposed. Concrete will still allow water to get to the bottom and it will rot from there.
if you seal the bottom then it traps moisture which can cause frost heave which can crack the footings. Whats more of a concern is the depth of the footings. They're way too shallow.
The bottom of the post sits on a layer of gravel shoveled into the hole for drainage.
Beautiful work and great video. Thank you so much. I will be hiring someone but I want to know how things should be properly done myself before hiring someone. Your knowledge is much appreciated thank you for sharing.
Thanks! I'm glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
String line tip is gold
April did you consider doing the whole deck and framing with screws? I am doing that on mine. I must say, it makes for a very secure build but it definitely is slower!
perfect timing, I'm going to be building a deck on my house this year!
That's awesome! Enjoy the build. Thanks for watching.
Where you notched your new joist at the "old" carrying beam, I always like to put a 2x4 ledger under the new lumber, nailed to the old beam. This way as the new lumber dries, if it starts to split at the notch, the 2x4 will carry the entire height of the board, and will usually prevent the joist from splitting down it's entire length.
You should install a cleet under the 2x10 notch, and good practice is to cut square ends on the joists.
APRIL,SOMETIMES IT’S GREAT WHEN A PROJECT GETS OUT OF HAND 😁👍💚💚💚
Awesome job as usual April. A little tip that makes putting the joist tape on when working on an elevated deck, is to apply the tape to the joists before putting them in place. Big time saver and much safer.
Nice job on building the deck April! Thank you for sharing the video with us!😎💖👍JP
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
@@AprilWilkerson Your very welcome April! Have a wonderful Sunday😎
I always enjoy your projects. I wish I could get you to come up to KC to help me build my deck and cedar pergola.
I show you how to do it. :) I have a 5 page list of projects still to do of my own. Thanks for watching.
Wow.the bend in those joists!! Are you not fitting joist spacers?
That kinda reminds me of shrink tubing but for wooden posts? Never saw this one coming...good job and what an awesome deck! There's one in my future so thanks for that too.
Yeah I’m not sure how well that shrink stuff will actually work. Unless there’s an adhesive or something that’s making a literal waterproof seal at the top between the wrap and the wood, it’s probably just going to help some, but not much.
A better solution would be to put the posts on top of the concrete with a post anchor that gets it off of the column, versus into the concrete underground.
But I live in an area with tons of rain, so take that into account lol.
Cool looking deck. Quick framing tip. Instead of using a tape measure to measure away from a string line, instead use a carpenters pencil and sandwich it between the line and post at the beginning and end of the string line to bump the line out the width of the pencil. (I'm not saying 1/2" because I've found they now deviate from the old time standard) Then as you set posts you just make sure each post is exactly the width of a pencil from the line. Helps keep your hands free to make the micro adjustments to the post, use a level etc and quick check with the pencil rather than trying to wield a tape measure in that situation.
Great video! However, would it have worked to put the joist tape on before you put the joists up. In my mind it seems easier. Looking forward to the next video!
Love the cattle watering trough pool!
Yes, I love the look! Thanks for watching.
What is the difference between 1) putting the posts in the ground like in this video vs 2) Pouring the footing with an anchor bolt / drilling in anchor bolt then using post brackets?
I just love your DIY videos, I always learn something.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoy them and find them useful.
12:08 one tip for you. Instead of stopping and measuring the distance between each joist, place the rim joist square up, then mark on center 16" in this case on the rim joist. Then just line up the mark and nail the joist home.
I am not really understanding how this works.
Wouldn’t you want the deck to slope down 2degrees for water to flow off, or is that only necessary for right next to the house?
Another great video Ms April 👍
Thank you so much 😀
Love the color!! What finish and color. What is it?
Good tips. I never heard of joist tape before. Thanks.
Great! Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
I want whatever coffee April is drinking 💪
You don't need joist tape. It can only help that's a fair point but I've demo'd dozens of old decks and the pt lumber holds up for 30 years no problem. Only exception is if there's a 3 ply beam anywhere..I've seen the Rot badly from the middle ply outward because that piece can't dry sufficiently because it's sandwiched. I'd put zip tape over 3 ply beams and obviously flash the ledger properly
They don’t treat wood like they used too. Current regulations have reduced the effectiveness of treated wood in favor of the environment. Most deck wood is also garbage compared to 30 years ago so more prone to rotting. I would definitely use deck tape.
I love your videos and I just did my own cabinet doors, with pocket screws. Thanks for the encouragement. I spray the posts I set in the ground with automotive rust-proofing. I have no tests proving this is a good idea, I'll let you know in 20 years or so. The self stick looks good too, might try that next time. I've used joist tape since I read about it in Fine Homebuilding, a few years ago, seems like a nice idea and cheap insurance. I figure none of the joists I set in place, ove the years, have really seen any water at all.
You don't need tape. You need to have spacing so that the joists and decking have air to stay DRY. That is the key.
That might only apply if you are in a climate where there is never snow and/or ice that would sit on the joists at the gap. Ergo, the tape is a good idea.
@@nonprogrediestregredi1711I've been building decks in the NorthEast for a long time and never once have I used tape. I haven't seen one deck fail yet. Pressure-treated wood is meant to get wet, not stay wet.
@jamesoncross7494 And I've been building decks for over thirty years in the upper Midwest, and I've never seen a deck fail either. But hey, that's irrelevant since I NEVER asserted that one did. Get it?
You advocated for keeping the joists and decking DRY, to which I accurately stated that snow and/or ice can certainly sit in the gaps on the joists. In climates such as that, keeping that space dry is highly improbable in the winter months, which is contrary to your dryness hypothesis. I didn't say that the tape is a necessity, but that it is a good idea.
Hello there April, You are an amazing Builder. Would oyu have anyvideo's or plans for a lean to type shed? My dimensions are 12' X 4' X 9', tool shed with a slant roof. 9' in the back Slanting down to 8' in the front. Hope that makes sence.
Absolutely Phenomenal. I enjoy all of your builds, videos, ideas. Mahalo for inspiration and for sharing. Aloha sista.
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoy my channel. Thanks for watching.