What a great presentation! So nice to have someone explain not just HOW to do something, but equally as important, the WHY. That hinged house model was the perfect visual aid. Thanks!
Nice presentation. I'm an Architect and I go on so many job sites where there is a huge ridge beam spanning up to 32' and it is in a situation where there are floor or ceiling joists taking up all of the thrust of the roof rafters. That ridge beam is dead weight doing nothing except adding to the roof load. So many contractors and carpenters don't understand the strength of a triangle. I tell them this and they don't believe me until I say how do you think all those roofs on 100 year old houses have stood up before lam beams were ever invented? I also think the lumberyards want to sell expensive lam beams. My structural engineer and I walked through a house he and I designed and he asked the framer why there were so many lam beams, (that were not a part of his design), throughout the house. He produced a framing plan done by the lumberyard that had lam beams in places they were not needed. We had done our own framing plan that my structural engineer designed and stamped, but the lumberyard ignored it and made their own.
That’s crazy. As a carpenter and contractor I have 2 things to say: First, I think it’s important that we as carpenters make it our business to understand this. Second, just looking at other guys job sites I see that situation as well but don’t understand how it happens. I’ve never been on a job when there was significant structural work like that being done without engineered plans. So while it’s important carpenters have some understanding of structural issues, there should be engineered specs. Follow them. Do not deviate from them without a conversation with the engineer.
I am a structural engineer and find this problem often enough. On one hand, I see extra unnecessary lumber. On the other hand, I see “value engineering” in the form of minimized floor joists that are lighter/smaller than I specify (someone was trying to put some $$ in their pocket). I have taken the time to visit the lumber yard and confront the technician who is running the joist software and selling the goods. We all want our buildings to meet code and perform well, but not to cost the client more than necessary. Education is critical. I have referenced RUclips videos many times to explain structural issues and also for simple building envelope things like flashing a window (yes…many contractors don’t get it).
@@robertmurray43it’s amazing how many mess up the window flashing. It’s common sense too since all you need to keep in mind is water runs down. Infuriating!
@robertmurray43 I’ll disagree the contractors get it, they know they are out of their league when it cones to knowledge and execution. The issue is over reliance on the professional architects/engineers and lazy immune municipal inspectors. I just got off a 10 story midrise apartment with slab on vdeck on the 10 story. The angle iron holding the structural walls and floor had 70% of the titens not installed iaw simpsons manufacture specs. I brought it up to the inspector and he dime me out to the owner/contractor. Owner was pissed the inspector said that he only needs a percentage of them installed correctly. I told the owner you are the contractor it doesnt matter what the inspector says you are liable for his nonfeasance. Im a general contractor i follow the plans and the code and get changes when the plans are wrong because vif issues. Often the inspector wont even require a plan change because he can see a detail is impossible to build to plan because the engineer doesnt have a spatial foresight. Doesnt mean im smart or educated just means im in the field doing the work reading the plans and fixing the issues as they come up.
Quite right sir! In traditional oak framing,when a tie beam is used,there is actually no structural need for a ridge at all.A pegged halflap or bridle joint where the tops of the common rafters meet is/was often used. Sometimes,where a ridge board is used,it is often simply a 6x1 inch board whose main purpose is to help with the tiling battens and to have something to nail individual plumb cut rafter top ends to butt up against so you can work on one side of the roof at a time. No shortage of bad ideas out there e.g. in later traditional Japanese temple construction the err 'solution' when a temple roof had colapsed in an earthquake (obv killing everyone inside!) was often to simply make the roof heavier next time!!! Plenty of centuries old stone buildings with oak roofs have collapsed because a cowboy builder cut through a tie beam to make room for a staircase into the roofspace.
My house is over 100 years old, has a single 1x ridge board (a piece of t&g), and every single 2x4x16 rafter (except the gable ends) was buckled when I bought it. Through some miracle, the roof never did collapse I guess because of the knee wall (although it was severely compromised). I'll never forget the expression on the roofer's face when we told him we "bought" the place. I could type a book about what I've done to it since, but it's all replaced now. I like your video, it's good info and a fun visual
My house is 125 years old. Well most of the 125 year old house is inside of it. You just have to go to the basement to see it. The old plank floor is under the floor and the old plank walls are inside the walls. But the roof has no vents and no collar ties. But thats the new roof they built over the old roof. The old house was only 400 sq ft and it's roof is inside the attic.
Yhis just answered questions I’ve had for a month now that have been stalling me from progressing my shed build. I now have the confidence to start working on the ridge and rafters. Thanks for the video
...mock-ups are great for envisioning, i like your style and my knowledge is now greater, thanks. My personal project is too small to use this on but who knows?! Carry on casting out your net!
Nice video..if I wanted to get rid of the floor joists and collar ties, can’t we just beef up the existing ridge beam from under it, and support it by posts that secure the weight?
I m relieved as they did mine just like u presented but on one end. The other is standard built only one window per floor tho hopin that’s ok. Still up after 20 years n doesn’t move much during the hi winds.
They can make 'em at least 48ft long. If you had two end to end you'd probably need to support them with a column underneath where they meet. Check with a local engineer.
This demonstration is for stick framed roofs. Any roof using structural engineered roof trusses (including scissor trusses) are already designed to support the roof loads and a ridge board or ridge beam is not necessary. You do still have to provide blocking between each truss at the ridge as well as bracing in various locations to keep the trusses from racking but that would be determined by the truss manufacturer and the truss drawings would indicate where the bracing is required based on the design of your roof.
Can Weyerhaeuser help a homeowner who has house plans on the size of ridge beam and rafters needed for a cathedral ceiling if they have designed it themselves.
Very interesting. So we don’t need collar or rafter ties when we have 2 support posts for the top LVL ridge for both ends? How long the LVL can go without adding more posts in between?
Depends on the size of the ridge beam and amount of roof weight it’s carrying. Usually there are deflection limits, and as the beam gets longer, the deflection can be too much unless you increase the size of the beam from a 4x12 to a 6x12 to some LVL. That’s why an engineer will do the calculation to control the deflection.
I’ve put up large tripled 14” LVLs that sagged before the load was even on them. Even when engineered they sag a lot, and aren’t the answer to everything.
@daversj lvls don't just sag...I've built many houses and used many lvls in varying sizes and situations...of course they are not the solution to every problem but unless you are misusing them, (in my experience) they certainly won't just sag.
Nice presentation. A simple demonstration you can do without a model is to sit a table with your chin in the palms of your hands and your elbows on the table. Then notice how your elbows want to spread apart from the weight of your head. Now do the same thing with a stack of books and rest your chin on the books with your hands in the same position. The outward pressure on your elbows is relieved.
But even with the compression roof the gable ends would have braces all along the edge if not for support at least to provide a board to attach the sheathing and thus provide the same load transfer down to the foundation. Right?
Could those columns continue straight down to the foundation, or do you need to have the header that splits the load up onto two jack studs? Is that for a wider centre of gravity or something? Or just a way to allow for a doorway on that wall?
The header is used in this application, or any, when the post is over a door or window. You need to transfer the load around the opening. If you have a blank wall with no opening then yes you need to run the post straight down to the foundation.
I built a structure exactly like that, with the ridge beam about ten years ago! It was huge. The ridge beam was a 3ply 16” lvl. Anything is possible with LVL!
I need to do more research regarding "LVL" durability & stability, but I truly appreciate all perspectives here. I built the same model and am currently using this for an upper level expansion. Thank you All.🤓
I had to repair a house that had a box beam running down the vault (Like 3ft wall on the ceiling) spanning 60ft. It was sagging like 3 inches. I ended up having to build a footing in the basement and run beams up the middle of the house to support it. From my experience as a remodeler I'd never build a vaulted ceiling unless it was a small entrance.
Cathedral ceilings can be very large if they are designed correctly to begin with. A lot of it depends on whether you stick frame the roof or use pre-engineered roof trusses, etc.
Build them right and the vaulted ceilings are absolutely worth it. Makes a small footprint seem bigger and that’s super important with the cost of lumber..
Aim for elements being in tension or compression only. This is why triangles are the fundamental building geometry.... you could make a triangle with all hinge joints and it would be rigid in it's fundamental plane.,,,not so for rectangles etc.
Hi, I have told that 2200 mm clear height measured from bottom of ridge board to top of first floor ceiling joist is sufficient in a loft conversion. But as per my opinion, it is still not possible if used minimum 152 mm U.C both in ridge beam and floor beam. Its become 2200-152-152-50 mm (Spreader plate+ deflection)= 1846 mm < 2000 mm (minimum clear height).I have ignored thickness of floor board and ceiling plaster board. Please advice.
Look into the minimum room height and width/area according to your code, if you want this to be habitable space. Personally I am not sure I understand what your calculation is aimed at, sorry.
You do know 2200mm is less than 8’. What exactly are you referencing? Are you saying that since it’s not high, the wind can’t push it over. The wind sucks it up as it goes over the peak ( low pressure outside, high pressure inside). Actually more so down by the wall rather than the peak. Do you ever see tie downs from where roof meets wall, then carried down to foundation. Probably more so down in Florida. If you see a roof blown off in the interior of the country, it probably encountered a tornado or plywood sucked off as result of a typical contractor that doesn’t understand why there’s a code regarding fastener’s.
@@Now_lets_get_this_straight, Hi, this is a matter of minimum clear headroom of 2000 mm which is necessary after the installation of ridge and floor beams. Practically, it is not possible to construct a loft conversion if the existing clear height between the floorboard and the bottom of the ridge board is 2200 mm. As minimum of 152 mm U.C. beams (Ridge and floor beam) are necessary for a loft conversion. So the remaining height will be less than 2000 mm Here in U.K., the ceiling of the loft cannot be raised up from the existing level. Instead, you can lower the first-floor ceiling to gain a 2000 mm height in the loft. But again if sufficient headroom has left in First-floor after lowering the first-floor ceiling.
The load transfers down to a header over the opening and then down jack studs to the floor. Squash blocks to the foundation under that if it's a framed floor.
When i started as a carpenter forty years ago house were not engineerd and you rairly saw a laminated beam. You followed the code. Now houses have gotten so big there are lam. beems all over the dwelling.
So this only really applies to a cathedral ceiling because no end walls, double top plates tying walls together, or corners would be a wildly unsafe structure. Also the load transfer down to a doorway header , while probably safe, seems like a bad idea too. This whole thing just appears to be a Schill for the product(I know.."no duh")
I like to do load bearing walls incorporated into the layout. Vaulted ceilings are nice, but over time a lack of load walls can lead to a lot of popping and cracking.
@@joshuasmith1215 I like it because it cuts out having to create an attic space, which needs ventilation. When you put vents in an attic, sand (here in the southwest) tends to build up and mix with insulation. This causes sagging of ceiling drywall. If you look at local buildings, you get a lot of structures like adobes and Navajo hogans that do not use attic spaces. There are a lot of lean roof and vaulted dwellings. Venting is done by opening windows taking advantage of the breeze.
@@docnez8562 Just studying to build my own cabin. Do vaulted ceilings still require some ventilation between the underside of the roof sheathing and the insulation in between the rafters? What distance of air gap is best practice?
this video does not fully explain how the middle sections of the walls are protected from spreading outward in high winds or when under heavy snow load. I don't see how the heavy vertical posts on either end make much difference in the middle of the wall
Think he said usually by using collar ties or maybe also by a strap over the ridge beam might help. Otherwise I don't think it would spread much because the rafters are attached both at the beams and walls and with a ridge beam construction the walls aren't being forced outward as much because the load that would push them out is being accounted for by the ridge beam.
It is in the structural center beam, it cant deflect downwards as can a piece of solid timber. You could do the same with a steel beam, but of course no one would. So if the top center ridge engineered beam can not sag down, neither can the outer side wall spread farther apart.
if you do have the ceiling tie it is still a mechanism,because wind on the roof will exert horizontal load and you have three hinges, the wall can't take horizontal load and be a support to the roof as a cantilever. so how does it work ? what keeps the structure stable ( even with ties). Schematically- in order for the structure to be stable, the connection between the top of the wall and the triangle must be rigid connection, and it's not- it’s a hinge connection.
I think the wracking stress on the lower walls is handled by the crossing walls at the ends and inside. The ceiling joists just handle the outward thrust of the roof. It's like a cardboard box, of you cut both ends out it's easy to push over,even with a flat top and bottom.
It’s does not carry the load, it holds the rafters in place so THEY can carry the load down to the outside walls where it’s transferred to the studs below and carried down to the footings. Studs , rafters and floor joist should all line up with each other for this purpose of transferring the loads. Great question.
In theory glued up anything will work,but will it stand the test of time? I doubt it. This is the same industry that brought us OSB, Glued up clapboards, Door frames with finger joints. Chip board kitchen cabinets. I always put beams in some walls upstairs to support the roof. Transfer the load down. I also tie the rafters to the wall with steel strapping. Collar beams, Floor joist ties definitely. Very old houses had wind braces from the ridge to the end walls. Seems a good idea to me. Cathedral ceiling? Not my thing.
How come on houses that have a ridge beam why do they only put collar ties every other rafter why not every rafter I want to put collar ties on every rafter in my house
The PPE police are so rampant now that this guy has made sure to wear his gloves & glasses to demo a tiny house, unfortunately for him he forgot his ear plugs so be expecting some disapproving comments 😅
why aren't LVL, or such, made...hollow? As much as possible, anyway. Without significantly reducing its capacity. Less material...less-weight...less-waste...good for the planet...blah, blah, blah :-) I'm an old framer (aka: designer/builder), who'd appreciates more "lightness" as a spec., too. btw, my all-wood structures have been in 8 hurricanes in S.FL, since H. David, with NO damage. Even those with Trus-Joists ('81) ! )))
Well of course the roof is going to fail without any gable end wall supports. No studs, no double top plate, no bottom plate. This is a good way to channel people into your products by providing misleading information. Well presented but you didn’t get all of us.
In a compression roof, there is no need for gable end wall supports, the trusses hold all of the weight. If you’re not using rafter ties, you need a structural beam/purlins
If today's so called "builders" would go back to framing balloon walled gable ends, then the reinforced centered vertical members would be pylons, and the great room end walls would avoid that horrible hinge effect found in multi-storied heights. They're just too cheap to buy long boards.
Gable walls are framed in with studs in 16" oc, and one directly under the ridge, that does this. The only difference between this and what people do every day is the use of an lvl as the ridge board. I don't see anything revolutionary, novel, new, about this.
Наука
What a great presentation! So nice to have someone explain not just HOW to do something, but equally as important, the WHY. That hinged house model was the perfect visual aid. Thanks!
Nice presentation. I'm an Architect and I go on so many job sites where there is a huge ridge beam spanning up to 32' and it is in a situation where there are floor or ceiling joists taking up all of the thrust of the roof rafters. That ridge beam is dead weight doing nothing except adding to the roof load. So many contractors and carpenters don't understand the strength of a triangle. I tell them this and they don't believe me until I say how do you think all those roofs on 100 year old houses have stood up before lam beams were ever invented? I also think the lumberyards want to sell expensive lam beams. My structural engineer and I walked through a house he and I designed and he asked the framer why there were so many lam beams, (that were not a part of his design), throughout the house. He produced a framing plan done by the lumberyard that had lam beams in places they were not needed. We had done our own framing plan that my structural engineer designed and stamped, but the lumberyard ignored it and made their own.
That’s crazy. As a carpenter and contractor I have 2 things to say:
First, I think it’s important that we as carpenters make it our business to understand this.
Second, just looking at other guys job sites I see that situation as well but don’t understand how it happens. I’ve never been on a job when there was significant structural work like that being done without engineered plans. So while it’s important carpenters have some understanding of structural issues, there should be engineered specs. Follow them. Do not deviate from them without a conversation with the engineer.
I am a structural engineer and find this problem often enough. On one hand, I see extra unnecessary lumber. On the other hand, I see “value engineering” in the form of minimized floor joists that are lighter/smaller than I specify (someone was trying to put some $$ in their pocket). I have taken the time to visit the lumber yard and confront the technician who is running the joist software and selling the goods. We all want our buildings to meet code and perform well, but not to cost the client more than necessary. Education is critical. I have referenced RUclips videos many times to explain structural issues and also for simple building envelope things like flashing a window (yes…many contractors don’t get it).
@@robertmurray43it’s amazing how many mess up the window flashing. It’s common sense too since all you need to keep in mind is water runs down. Infuriating!
@robertmurray43 I’ll disagree the contractors get it, they know they are out of their league when it cones to knowledge and execution. The issue is over reliance on the professional architects/engineers and lazy immune municipal inspectors. I just got off a 10 story midrise apartment with slab on vdeck on the 10 story. The angle iron holding the structural walls and floor had 70% of the titens not installed iaw simpsons manufacture specs. I brought it up to the inspector and he dime me out to the owner/contractor. Owner was pissed the inspector said that he only needs a percentage of them installed correctly. I told the owner you are the contractor it doesnt matter what the inspector says you are liable for his nonfeasance. Im a general contractor i follow the plans and the code and get changes when the plans are wrong because vif issues. Often the inspector wont even require a plan change because he can see a detail is impossible to build to plan because the engineer doesnt have a spatial foresight. Doesnt mean im smart or educated just means im in the field doing the work reading the plans and fixing the issues as they come up.
Quite right sir!
In traditional oak framing,when a tie beam is used,there is actually no structural need for a ridge at all.A pegged halflap or bridle joint where the tops of the common rafters meet is/was often used.
Sometimes,where a ridge board is used,it is often simply a 6x1 inch board whose main purpose is to help with the tiling battens and to have something to nail individual plumb cut rafter top ends to butt up against so you can work on one side of the roof at a time.
No shortage of bad ideas out there e.g. in later traditional Japanese temple construction the err 'solution' when a temple roof had colapsed in an earthquake (obv killing everyone inside!) was often to simply make the roof heavier next time!!!
Plenty of centuries old stone buildings with oak roofs have collapsed because a cowboy builder cut through a tie beam to make room for a staircase into the roofspace.
This is the best explanation for this type of conversion I found on RUclips. Thanks.
😢 Y
My house is over 100 years old, has a single 1x ridge board (a piece of t&g), and every single 2x4x16 rafter (except the gable ends) was buckled when I bought it. Through some miracle, the roof never did collapse I guess because of the knee wall (although it was severely compromised). I'll never forget the expression on the roofer's face when we told him we "bought" the place. I could type a book about what I've done to it since, but it's all replaced now. I like your video, it's good info and a fun visual
My house is 125 years old. Well most of the 125 year old house is inside of it. You just have to go to the basement to see it. The old plank floor is under the floor and the old plank walls are inside the walls. But the roof has no vents and no collar ties. But thats the new roof they built over the old roof. The old house was only 400 sq ft and it's roof is inside the attic.
Just hoping you knew what you were getting into.
Can be rebuilt no problem but not cool if it’s a suprise.
not cool at at when your roof has no main beam, so so rafters cant walk on and 16 diffrent layers of insulation fml@@donaldatherton319
There's that data I commented on. Your firsthand account refutes this guy's claims.
Awesome video! This explains exactly why we need to construct our roofs properly. I needed this as I was about to make a mistake on my outbuilding..:)
Yhis just answered questions I’ve had for a month now that have been stalling me from progressing my shed build. I now have the confidence to start working on the ridge and rafters. Thanks for the video
Only real explanation I have been able to find. Thank you.
I guess that vaulted ceiling conversion wont be as easy as I was hoping.
Wow, phenomenal and effective presentation with explanation.
Thank You.
Best video I have seen with excellent explanations. Thanks so much.
...mock-ups are great for envisioning, i like your style and my knowledge is now greater, thanks. My personal project is too small to use this on but who knows?! Carry on casting out your net!
One of the best videos I’ve ever seen on this topic! Thank you
Just saw this. I am a fan. Youve just gained a subscriber. Great presentation.
Thank you for sharing this video. It is good to know about structural integrity and how to build walls etc...
This was so easy to understand thank you!!! I wish I knew of some one in my area who could really explain things like you lol thanks for the video
You answered my question that s column in the front and back will not require rafter ties in between within the structure. Thank you
I learned a lot from this, thanks very much!
I love the model. Such a great thing to take the time to do for demonstration.
Watching in Ireland great presentation thank you very easy to understand
Do you need a rafter tie for a cabin 12 x 16? I notice a lot of cabins dont have this or even a collar tie.
Very helpful! Thanks!
Great Explanation Of Strong Roof Building! Thanks, A Lot⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️🏌🏾♂️
Thankyou for an excellent visual explanation.
good explantation and a great model!
well done explanation. Removing the collar ties in old barns to move hay efficiently was a death sentence to those beautiful old buildings.
Thank you. VERY informative. But next time, include the links in the description :)
Nice video..if I wanted to get rid of the floor joists and collar ties, can’t we just beef up the existing ridge beam from under it, and support it by posts that secure the weight?
If the walls are made up of block is there any difference ? great video
An unusually good presentation.
Q: do trusses bypass all this? Great info..Thanks!
Great presentation!
Thank you! Mock ups are great!
Awesome!! Thank you 😊
Best presentation I have ever seen. Kudo's from an engineer.
I m relieved as they did mine just like u presented but on one end. The other is standard built only one window per floor tho hopin that’s ok. Still up after 20 years n doesn’t move much during the hi winds.
Good teaching, I love the models
great video.
how long can the ridge be? in case of long ridge, is it possible to join two ridge beams?
They can make 'em at least 48ft long. If you had two end to end you'd probably need to support them with a column underneath where they meet. Check with a local engineer.
Great explanation. Where would a scissor truss fit into this for a cathedral ceiling?
This demonstration is for stick framed roofs. Any roof using structural engineered roof trusses (including scissor trusses) are already designed to support the roof loads and a ridge board or ridge beam is not necessary. You do still have to provide blocking between each truss at the ridge as well as bracing in various locations to keep the trusses from racking but that would be determined by the truss manufacturer and the truss drawings would indicate where the bracing is required based on the design of your roof.
Can Weyerhaeuser help a homeowner who has house plans on the size of ridge beam and rafters needed for a cathedral ceiling if they have designed it themselves.
Do you have the dogs for the model house!? It will be great as a teaching trainer
Very interesting. So we don’t need collar or rafter ties when we have 2 support posts for the top LVL ridge for both ends? How long the LVL can go without adding more posts in between?
Depends on the size of the ridge beam and amount of roof weight it’s carrying. Usually there are deflection limits, and as the beam gets longer, the deflection can be too much unless you increase the size of the beam from a 4x12 to a 6x12 to some LVL. That’s why an engineer will do the calculation to control the deflection.
See his instruction at about 5:13.
I’ve put up large tripled 14” LVLs that sagged before the load was even on them. Even when engineered they sag a lot, and aren’t the answer to everything.
@daversj lvls don't just sag...I've built many houses and used many lvls in varying sizes and situations...of course they are not the solution to every problem but unless you are misusing them, (in my experience) they certainly won't just sag.
Good video thank you.
Very helpful 👍 for an amateur homebuilder a lot of this I do no but always good to be refreshed 😅 thank you 🤠☺️
Great video, thank you!
Informative! Thanks.
ive used the support header as a door frame liner !
Nice presentation. A simple demonstration you can do without a model is to sit a table with your chin in the palms of your hands and your elbows on the table. Then notice how your elbows want to spread apart from the weight of your head. Now do the same thing with a stack of books and rest your chin on the books with your hands in the same position. The outward pressure on your elbows is relieved.
Very good video!
bad ass video
how does side load work on the second roof
Very well done.
Excellent ! Thanks
But even with the compression roof the gable ends would have braces all along the edge if not for support at least to provide a board to attach the sheathing and thus provide the same load transfer down to the foundation. Right?
Could those columns continue straight down to the foundation, or do you need to have the header that splits the load up onto two jack studs? Is that for a wider centre of gravity or something? Or just a way to allow for a doorway on that wall?
The header is used in this application, or any, when the post is over a door or window. You need to transfer the load around the opening. If you have a blank wall with no opening then yes you need to run the post straight down to the foundation.
can you give an example for hip roof?
I love the model. This is so hard to explain to people without the visual aide.
I built a structure exactly like that, with the ridge beam about ten years ago! It was huge. The ridge beam was a 3ply 16” lvl. Anything is possible with LVL!
Heck that looks better than anything else I have built.
I need to do more research regarding "LVL" durability & stability, but I truly appreciate all perspectives here.
I built the same model and am currently using this for an upper level expansion. Thank you All.🤓
@@chrisfreeman5975 lvl= better strength, better resistance to expanding/contracting, much stronger nail holding capacity
@@atomjordan got to turn up my nailgun to shoot into LVL. Amazing product.
@@je-fq7ve Yep, especially during winter! Safe building!
I had to repair a house that had a box beam running down the vault (Like 3ft wall on the ceiling) spanning 60ft. It was sagging like 3 inches. I ended up having to build a footing in the basement and run beams up the middle of the house to support it. From my experience as a remodeler I'd never build a vaulted ceiling unless it was a small entrance.
Cathedral ceilings can be very large if they are designed correctly to begin with. A lot of it depends on whether you stick frame the roof or use pre-engineered roof trusses, etc.
Build them right and the vaulted ceilings are absolutely worth it. Makes a small footprint seem bigger and that’s super important with the cost of lumber..
Your the man thank you
@RRBUILDING I would like to see this implemented in a post and beam home.
Good content ever seen on youtube
Thanks a lot 🙏
Good stuff!
Just what I needed to hear
Very good explanation, thank you.….not sure about the need for hand and eye protection for this video.🤷♂️
Aim for elements being in tension or compression only. This is why triangles are the fundamental building geometry.... you could make a triangle with all hinge joints and it would be rigid in it's fundamental plane.,,,not so for rectangles etc.
L0.😊 Weo09 wel9ol9l❤ on
I am impressed!
Thank you!
Hi, I have told that 2200 mm clear height measured from bottom of ridge board to top of first floor ceiling joist is sufficient in a loft conversion. But as per my opinion, it is still not possible if used minimum 152 mm U.C both in ridge beam and floor beam. Its become 2200-152-152-50 mm (Spreader plate+ deflection)= 1846 mm < 2000 mm (minimum clear height).I have ignored thickness of floor board and ceiling plaster board.
Please advice.
Look into the minimum room height and width/area according to your code, if you want this to be habitable space. Personally I am not sure I understand what your calculation is aimed at, sorry.
You do know 2200mm is less than 8’. What exactly are you referencing? Are you saying that since it’s not high, the wind can’t push it over. The wind sucks it up as it goes over the peak ( low pressure outside, high pressure inside). Actually more so down by the wall rather than the peak. Do you ever see tie downs from where roof meets wall, then carried down to foundation. Probably more so down in Florida. If you see a roof blown off in the interior of the country, it probably encountered a tornado or plywood sucked off as result of a typical contractor that doesn’t understand why there’s a code regarding fastener’s.
@@Now_lets_get_this_straight, Hi, this is a matter of minimum clear headroom of 2000 mm which is necessary after the installation of ridge and floor beams. Practically, it is not possible to construct a loft conversion if the existing clear height between the floorboard and the bottom of the ridge board is 2200 mm. As minimum of 152 mm U.C. beams (Ridge and floor beam) are necessary for a loft conversion. So the remaining height will be less than 2000 mm
Here in U.K., the ceiling of the loft cannot be raised up from the existing level. Instead, you can lower the first-floor ceiling to gain a 2000 mm height in the loft. But again if sufficient headroom has left in First-floor after lowering the first-floor ceiling.
very helpful video
very good video
That was Cool! Ty
My ridge beam is a 14" hickory log and is supported by 12x12 white oak beams down to the log wall.
This won't work for an attached garage, where the house door is right in the middle, as it would be in the way of the ridge beam structure mentioned?
The load transfers down to a header over the opening and then down jack studs to the floor. Squash blocks to the foundation under that if it's a framed floor.
Not sure on this guy but I think it's John. John is actually a pretty smart cat. I gave him a GoPro H2 and this is how he repays me lol.
When i started as a carpenter forty years ago house were not engineerd and you rairly saw a laminated beam. You followed the code. Now houses have gotten so big there are lam. beems all over the dwelling.
Don't forget about enough room in rafters for insulation and venting? Especially in cold climate like Canada,
So this only really applies to a cathedral ceiling because no end walls, double top plates tying walls together, or corners would be a wildly unsafe structure. Also the load transfer down to a doorway header , while probably safe, seems like a bad idea too. This whole thing just appears to be a Schill for the product(I know.."no duh")
It's actually super common practice to have doors on load bearing wall sections....
i think ide opt for all three i this situation
I like to do load bearing walls incorporated into the layout. Vaulted ceilings are nice, but over time a lack of load walls can lead to a lot of popping and cracking.
Never understood the desire for vaulted ceilings. Harder to change bulbs. Harder to paint. Harder to clean. Much more volume of air to condition.
@@joshuasmith1215 I like it because it cuts out having to create an attic space, which needs ventilation. When you put vents in an attic, sand (here in the southwest) tends to build up and mix with insulation. This causes sagging of ceiling drywall. If you look at local buildings, you get a lot of structures like adobes and Navajo hogans that do not use attic spaces. There are a lot of lean roof and vaulted dwellings. Venting is done by opening windows taking advantage of the breeze.
@@docnez8562 Just studying to build my own cabin. Do vaulted ceilings still require some ventilation between the underside of the roof sheathing and the insulation in between the rafters? What distance of air gap is best practice?
@@ShikokuFoodForest you can still put the round vents between each rafter set. But on a small cabin, not putting them in should be fine.
@@docnez8562 Thank you! I’m not a builder, where exactly between the rafters do the vents go?
this video does not fully explain how the middle sections of the walls are protected from spreading outward in high winds or when under heavy snow load. I don't see how the heavy vertical posts on either end make much difference in the middle of the wall
Think he said usually by using collar ties or maybe also by a strap over the ridge beam might help. Otherwise I don't think it would spread much because the rafters are attached both at the beams and walls and with a ridge beam construction the walls aren't being forced outward as much because the load that would push them out is being accounted for by the ridge beam.
It is in the structural center beam, it cant deflect downwards as can a piece of solid timber. You could do the same with a steel beam, but of course no one would. So if the top center ridge engineered beam can not sag down, neither can the outer side wall spread farther apart.
if you do have the ceiling tie it is still a mechanism,because wind on the roof will exert horizontal load and you have three hinges, the wall can't take horizontal load and be a support to the roof as a cantilever. so how does it work ? what keeps the structure stable ( even with ties).
Schematically- in order for the structure to be stable, the connection between the top of the wall and the triangle must be rigid connection, and it's not- it’s a hinge connection.
I think the wracking stress on the lower walls is handled by the crossing walls at the ends and inside. The ceiling joists just handle the outward thrust of the roof. It's like a cardboard box, of you cut both ends out it's easy to push over,even with a flat top and bottom.
Wind and seismic loads on the gable ends
I have a tough time understanding how the ridge beam carries that much load when the rafters just butt up against it.
Have you ever taken a course on this topic, if not, take one pretty straight forward to me how the load is transferred to and through the ridge beam
It’s does not carry the load, it holds the rafters in place so THEY can carry the load down to the outside walls where it’s transferred to the studs below and carried down to the footings. Studs , rafters and floor joist should all line up with each other for this purpose of transferring the loads. Great question.
In theory glued up anything will work,but will it stand the test of time? I doubt it. This is the same industry that brought us OSB, Glued up clapboards, Door frames with finger joints. Chip board kitchen cabinets. I always put beams in some walls upstairs to support the roof. Transfer the load down. I also tie the rafters to the wall with steel strapping. Collar beams, Floor joist ties definitely. Very old houses had wind braces from the ridge to the end walls. Seems a good idea to me. Cathedral ceiling? Not my thing.
Why did you not cut birds mouths into the rafters ? That would be a more realistic representation of a roof framing system.
ridge beam? I saw a post.
How come on houses that have a ridge beam why do they only put collar ties every other rafter why not every rafter I want to put collar ties on every rafter in my house
Nice to see Louis CK is making good use of his time off from comedy
roof framing 101
This is 19 century technology:)
Why are you wearing gloves?
Hey folks carpenter here dont trust companies that make parts. Every stick cut roof should have double 2×12 member to attach rafters to. Or its junk.
I sold over 40 million dollars of engineered lumber and trus joists ..... TJL, TJM, TJ60, TJH's Surprised to see the name Trus Joist is still around
catching barring .but lost all cross axes shes going down
The PPE police are so rampant now that this guy has made sure to wear his gloves & glasses to demo a tiny house, unfortunately for him he forgot his ear plugs so be expecting some disapproving comments 😅
WHY is this man wearing gloves?
why aren't LVL, or such, made...hollow? As much as possible, anyway. Without significantly reducing its capacity. Less material...less-weight...less-waste...good for the planet...blah, blah, blah :-) I'm an old framer (aka: designer/builder), who'd appreciates more "lightness" as a spec., too. btw, my all-wood structures have been in 8 hurricanes in S.FL, since H. David, with NO damage. Even those with Trus-Joists ('81) ! )))
^5
Well of course the roof is going to fail without any gable end wall supports. No studs, no double top plate, no bottom plate. This is a good way to channel people into your products by providing misleading information. Well presented but you didn’t get all of us.
In a compression roof, there is no need for gable end wall supports, the trusses hold all of the weight. If you’re not using rafter ties, you need a structural beam/purlins
Engineers need to be taught by actual framing carpenters this guy hasn't got a clue
If today's so called "builders" would go back to framing balloon walled gable ends, then the reinforced centered vertical members would be pylons, and the great room end walls would avoid that horrible hinge effect found in multi-storied heights. They're just too cheap to buy long boards.
Gable walls are framed in with studs in 16" oc, and one directly under the ridge, that does this. The only difference between this and what people do every day is the use of an lvl as the ridge board. I don't see anything revolutionary, novel, new, about this.