To anyone that thinks that the rust on the bottom of the column is not a problem let me tell you this. I have repaired and replaced many steel columns that have had the bottom end completely rusted away. This can be hard to see without measuring or using a level on the supported structure because the metal rusts away slowly over the years and the weight of the house slowly crushes the rusted metal making it appear to be a solid post. Concrete filled steel posts are a very good way to go.
@@adamkalman6011 I was wondering if he was stripping it or breaking off the head also. I think it just might be that the steel was still a little ways from being pulled tight against the wood but without the wider view it appears as though it is stripping out.
Every homeowner should be subscribed to this channel. I remember watching this show on TV with my dad when I was a kid in the 90s. I'm 32 now and own a home.
A couple thing that are very important. 1) Cap the temp post or use plate to keep the bottle jack from splitting the post right up the middle causing catastrophic failure of the temp support while under load. 2) This type of fix requires a structural engineer to design, it is not in the code book. A structural engineer would require at least 1/2" through bolts for this assembly. It is only accommodating the tension at the bottom of the beam and transferring the upper beams compression through moment at the Fastners. 3) The new column needs to be connected to the foundation below and the beam above to prevent uplift per code (in case of severe weather/high winds) 4) Those water pipe connections are considered mechanical and must be accessible (not covered with drywall) and you must clean (sanding or brushing) the pipe first, plus debur the pipe according to the manufactures requirements and code. The copper pipe must not make contact with the steel, this is required by code due to corrosion that occurs when differential metal make contact. This pipe will corrode and eventually leak.
I agree with your analysis in point #2. Code compliant joist hole repair kits are readily available from a number of manufacturers including Metwood Building Solutions and are much easier to install that large piece of steel. I also agree with point #4 that the pipe needs to be deburred before using Sharkbite connectors. You also need to verify that the copper pipe is not being used to ground the electrical system because the plastic lining in the Sharkbite does not conduct electricity. If so, you need to also install a jumper ground wire. .
@@fredthe47thI’m an Engineer and while everyone is stating some decent points, you’re all over thinking the angle iron replacement. Yes, the loss in strength of the beam is on top (compression side) but the angle iron is about 40x stronger and will take the compression. With that said, the engineered lag screws are way more than sufficient to handle to minor load the angle iron is going to transfer. While it may not be up to “code” in certain areas, I’ve seen plenty of houses and buildings that would never meet todays code but are way stronger and built better than new up to code homes. You’re all missing what’s called “composite action” of combining two different materials of vastly different strengths (steel and wood). Essentially, the steel will take all the load so the “compression side” of the wood beam above most of the angle iron won’t ever see the load because the angle iron would have to deflect to transfer the load (never happen with that size angle iron). Lastly, although “code” doesn’t allow the use flooring in structural design except for special applications, all the subfloor above and possible even wood flooring above that will contribute to the overall strength of that beam. Subfloor and possible hardwood floor are all nailed together. While this is a lengthy explanation for educational purposes, it’s only to point out that there is a lot of redundancy and safety factors in design and people tend to overthink things. It’s all one giant system of things fastened together and it could’ve been fixed with as little as two 1/4” thick steel plates on either side and some galvanized framing nails. That alone would’ve replaced the bending capacity loss of that beam.
@@fredthe47th if the lag bolts aren’t strong enough, they’d shear off. I guess only time will tell but I do know 10 of those lag bolts are stronger then the area of the beam cut out (compression parallel to the grain), which is probably around 500 PSI. If they cut out 10 square inches of the section, that’s 5,000 lbs of force lost. Cheap engineered 3/8” nominal lag bolts agave an allowable load of 965 lb. Typical design values for lag bolts is 4:1. So in reality, each lag bolt is good for 3,500 lbs. There’s also a bunch of minor adjustment factors and all that jazz but trust me, I do this for a living on a larger commercial scale. If he had expensive lag bolts, you can double the load I just put up there. Those “wimpy” lag bolts are a lot stronger than people think.
I cannot believe all of what I have just learned in one video. Things I just did not know. I just became a first time homeowner and I know for a fact the repairs I just watched will be a huge help in understanding what I must look for and how to correct these issues. One being the main beam support.
It's amazing how someone who has built homes all his life can't afford to buy a home that he built but here you are, no idea, probably couldn't reset a circuit breaker or unscrew a garden hose and you just bought a house.
@@TempoDrift1480 What's your point here? He made his money in whatever, and bought a house. He knows how to save and succeed. If someone that has built houses all his/her life can't afford one themselves, well, I hate to break it to you--- but the fault lies with that person. Are they working for someone else? Are they the one in charge? Why aren't they making money? Are they not charging enough for their services? Are they a poor workman? There's a reason for their failure, and that the "someone" would envy others instead of trying to figure out their own failings, speaks volumes. It's easy to be jealous, hard to actually do something about one's life.
@@TempoDrift1480 Should they just give them out for free to people who build houses? I am confused haha; Tech pays a lot better than a construction job, maybe you should switch careers instead of crying over spilt milk, no ?
For those who find this video, here are a couple of comments on the structural engineering side: First, there are better, easier products out there for replacing steel posts, sold in the big box stores, that don't require lifting the house a half an inch. Second, regarding the angle iron repair, I'm not entirely thrilled with their solution. Not because I don't think it works. But because I think it may mislead people into thinking that any piece of angle iron will fix any notch. The root problem with the beam is that it has a giant notch in the top cord in the moment-critical region of the beam. The solution they picked is really the lesser of two "installation" evils. Normally with top cord notching in a moment-critical region, you need to reinforce the top cord, which is in compression. This is normally accomplished by adding Area Moment of Inertia back to the top cord of beam with new steel along the top cord. This isn't possible with the joists and hangers in the way. Putting steel in the way they did, they treated the remaining wood under the notch as a weakened shallow depth beam. They added Area Moment of Inertia along the bottom cord of the beam, and along the lower half of the side of the beam. And this is an important point: had this been thinner angle iron, the angle would have merely reinforced the shear capacity (with the vertical leg of the angle iron), and the bottom cord tension capacity (with the horizontal leg of the angle iron), and done nothing for the top. Since it's much thicker steel, they were able to add more Area Moment of Intertia where it was needed at the top, which makes the solution work. So did this thick piece of angle reinforce the beam? Yes, but only because it was very thick. A quarter inch angle would have done very little, so I hope folks out there don't assume that any piece of angle will fix any notch. There is a specific calculation that an engineer will do to make sure the right thickness of steel is selected.
More of a Norm fan but Tom knows his stuff he had the fix in his head in seconds made it easy on himself. He is probably the best carpenter to ever have a tv show
Not that I know how to do half this stuff, but I always love listening to the homeowners when he's talking technical stuff and his process of what he's going to do. "Ok...sounds good...great..." (insert "I have no idea what I'm doing" meme)
I'm in the process of buying a 100 year old shack and everything in it is in need of repair from years of neglect. This video answered one of my big fears and I'm grateful for it! Y'all wanna come over and help out with some other leveling/structural/venting/roofing/electrical/well....just about everything issues I'm having???? (Please, pretty please!) Lol.
Been 6 years man how'd it come along? I'm in that process rn this is definitely my biggest fear but not huge only maybe got 5k worth of weight above my beam so should be an easy fix. But how'd it go?
I lift 40 tons of steel at work with 2 5/8" nuts, length of threaded rod, and 2 wrenchs. Way safer than what he's doing. It's not even that much weight
@@highstreetkillers4377 would you elaborate on this or post a video on it? Curiosity about moving 40 tons like that has struck me. 40 tons = 80,000 pounds. Seems like an awful lot of weight.
While I couldn't tell you exactly how much weight is being lifted here remember that the house is supported in many different places and this theme is probably carrying something like 1/20th the total weight or something like that. You should look up a video of moving houses they come along and use a whole bunch of these jacks and lift the whole thing off the foundation put a trailer under it and down the road
I was blessed to have opportunity to work on house built in 1919 by Finnish settlers.. (in Canada) we replaced old joists logs with new ones. Cutting and fitting the multi-faset joints was fun and a great learning experience.
Tommy, we're all convinced that you were one of the Egyptian Engineers who designed the Great Pyramid of Cheops. Your solutions are always superb and totally effective. Glad you were able to reincarnate -- to help us plebians with these (much) less challenging projects. Keep up the good work!
Plumbing was one of my concerns for jacking a house,I'm glad to see you included plumbing in this,thanks for the great video,very informative and not too long.
Copper plumbing should never be in contact with dissimilar metals if you want longevity. Not to mention using couplings to join copper pipe. Some good structural points given. I would of liked two angles sandwiching the joist with nuts and bolts sandwiching rather than just the screws from one side.
Cutting a big hole in a joist reminds me of my neighbour who knocked out a brick column to make more room in his kitchen, without stopping to wonder why it was there.
I know a guy who liked to water ski. He didn't like the water in his boat when he got back on board so he cut a hole in the bottom of the hull to let the water out.
I like the steel angle but the Simpson SDS or similar lag screws I don't think are big enough to do the job. In the past, in similar situations, I've drilled through the beam and steel angle then installed 1/2" or 3/4" bolts with 3" square washers on the backside, 2 bolts every 12". Also, 1 1/2"x4" lag on the bottom offset from interfering with the through bolts on the side.
@Brexit Monger There are pros and cons. Beam manufactures consider holes less than 10% of the beam negligible and since they would be securely attaching 3/8" angle steel, I'd consider it a net plus. Those SDS screws are intended for hangers and foundation brackets, not a big length of steel holding up a compromised floor system.
Tom you're great next video on the fittings maybe it would be wise to discuss deburring and marking stab depths. I've been a watcher of yours from the beginning and you definitely know a whole lot regarding building.
You should put a bushing between the steel beam and copper tube. Not to guard against chaffing so much but against a slight tendency for electrolysis. You can do it retroactively with a split bushing.
I am not a pro by any stretch, but my physics brain is wondering why the new pole is not used underneth the angle iron a few inches away? Would I have been wrong if I fixed the new pole under the sistered angle iron? Please forgive me for asking, I am simply curious. Great job by the way, you make it look so easy!! I am sure I am not the only one that was blown away by your added details regarding this entire project. Awesome job!!
He makes it look easy and is a good contractor. Although I think the angle looks too short. Transferring the bending forces into the steel from the wood beam is very difficult over such a short length. I also won't recommend that column type in and earthquake zone. If you mix in some vertical and horizontal accelerations, the column may not be supporting your floor anymore. It relies on the house weight to keep it fixed in place. You should also probably add a temporary shore just in case the hydraulics in the jack fails.
You know he works in the northeast (not an earthquake zone). Your valid point is that he should’ve used two posts in case the Jack failed or post split. That’s just a safety item though. Even though the Jack could fail, that only means the beam would deflect more but it wouldn’t cause structural damage, more damage to the finished above (like floor tile cracking). He would’ve just had bevel the bottom of a new post shore and bang it in so the beam lifted up and took the deflection out. I’d put a lot of money on the fact that the header beams size is not governed by its failure but it’s maximum deflection limits. I’m an engineer and long span beams are almost always upsized numerous sizes just to minimize deflection. That beam could easily deflect an inch or two and wouldn’t break (but obviously don’t want that to happen).
@@nybirdman I didn't say he was in an EQ zone. I am not recommending this type of column for an EQ zone. It is also not a good idea in areas with strong winds. Wood beam are very commonly governed by bending. But when a simple span gets long, the wood beams are generally governed by deflection. The continuity of the beam makes it more likely that bending governs. If you run some ball park numbers, you will see the beam is likely sufficient for deflection but is undersized for bending strength (assuming a 6x10 D.Fir N0. 1 grade with 14' trib width and 13' span and no 2nd floor or roof load transfers). The steel angle is even weaker than the beam. A few lag screws are not sufficient to transfer that bending force regardless if the beam is deflection or bending controlled. If the column comes down far enough, it can cause a instability between the jack and the temporary column. A kink develops between the jack and the temporary column. This causes the top of the jack and bottom of the column to move laterally. So it can be a life safety issue especially with the large notch in the beam. It is better to add a second temporary column. The major mistake that they made was not having an engineer design the repair. I would also say, the better way to get a proper fix is to add a column and footing below the notch.
If you pour a cement base for the post to sit on, it won't rust again. My 170 year old house has some of them. The ones with the cement base aren't rusting.
at minimum tack weld those plates to the post so that if you ever need to replace the other post and jack the beam up again, you don't have that one fall out. Also, put a grommet around that copper pipe going through the new steel angle to prevent corrosion if anything moves and touches.
general4str it’s surprising that someone who appears to have so much experience still missed those details. I don’t even work construction and I saw that post needed to be secured to the beam and maybe the floor
I was wondering if anyone else noticed the lack of welding. I kept on waiting for him to do it. A good trip/fall by a drunk uncle could knock that thing out of place
@@laureline4774 that wouldn't happen due to the amount of weight on that column. However should a seismic event occur it certainly can become loose and fall out of place.
@@inspectorsj It is required by Code to have positive connections of the foundation columns to prevent uplift on the structure during severe weather events.
How long should an angle iron extend past the damaged portion of a carrying beam that is 8” x 5 6/8”? Also, what should the hole pattern be drilled like? I see the hole pattern is staggered between the top & bottom holes. How far in would the 1st hole at the bottom start? Where would the 1st hole start at the top? How far apart should each hole be spaced between each other? Is the space between the holes different regarding the top holes spacing and the bottom holes spacing for screws?
Hopefully there is a footer or at least some extra thick concrete below the position of that post carrying that load. If you move the post you're no longer over the footing
Pro tip: Step 1 - Hire a structural engineer by the hour BEFORE you do anything. As a structural engineer I can tell you that massive angle will do absolutely nothing to retrofit that load carrying beam. but instead add even more dead weight to it. Trust me, everyone will sleep tight.
Agreed. Had he added the iron to the TOP chord of that beam then maybe it would have helped with the compression forces, otherwise there was no help in adding tension resistance to the bottom chord. Dam.
Well, they arent spinning freely, but he's drilling the bolts for WAY to long, they're in, he still spins them for 2-3-4 seconds, in will rip the wood inside, and it wont hold as good-> But well, look at the amount of screws, well doesnt really matter that much
I suppose there isn't really any longitudinal force on them to pull them out, so no big deal; I would still have been tempted to put some epoxy in there to give them a firm hold though.
Amazing explanation! It's very clear and helpful in terms of structure elements and also the solutions. Specially about blocking between the joists and their role. Very well done. I'm grateful 👍🙏
I recently had a deck installed (10 feet above ground) that also serves as a carport and I had to use four PSL parallam plus beams for support. The first step was a load calculation / beam deflection which is a must for any load bearing structure.
Great fixes, but a few mistakes were made. Always deburr and clean copper pipes (ID & OD) before making connections, even with sharkbites. Also, the way he cut a close fit clearance hole in the L channel bracket for the copper pipe to fit through will eventually cause corrosion. (Dissimilar metals in contact, running water as the electrolyte) This exact fix was done in my house when a hack ran plumbing just nearly cutting the joist in half. Over time the angle iron in contact with copper pipes corroded and caused leaks in my garage on my vehicle. When I cut it all out to replace it and fix the problem, I split the pipes in half on my bandsaw to see how bad it was, and the copper walls were perforated, paper thin wherever in contact with the steel. You can also avoid this by putting a rubber grommet, or anything to isolate the metals. Otherwise a stout fix as always.
While I don't think they showed it, the pipes did look like they had been deburred. It also looked like the hole in the angle iron was drilled slightly larger than the hole in the beam. I agree that a rubber grommet would be a very simple addition that would prevent any contact though.
Even just rolling a couple of layers of typing paper around the copper and shoving in to prevent contact with the steel would greatly improve it. Very simple and very little clearance needed.
I agree that solid bridging is better that the x-slat bridging my builder used. But I wonder why Tom used a pressed in coupler for the copper pipe instead of sweating in a copper coupler.
08:02 That screw was overtightened for like 3 seconds. Those shark-bite plumbing parts do also not give a lot of confidence, even being in a basement. I am only a hobby-plumber, but I still think people have a much higher esteem for these sorts of solutions than what they deserve. Plumbing needs to have an extreme degree of reliability to it, because the consequences of failures are so great. Shark bite should have very limited use, only to areas where failure is without anything but very small losses.
I had a plumber who came by and because my crawl space was flooded from a busted pipe, he proceeded to tell me if its not fixed within a few days my house will collapse and slide down the side of the mountain im on. Lolz
Should a level be put on the main carrier beam to make sure it is level before cutting the new lally column? Seems to me it would be a good idea in case it was already sagging from the cut made in it.
If it's been out of level a long time, all the walls above could be too. Leveling it could leave you with a lot of cracked plaster/drywall and other damage. Unless you're doing a more extensive job above, likely best to leave it at the same level.
Why not have ordered the Angle Iron long enough to transit all the way to the new jack-post so that at least one end of it is not reliant upon wood screws into the support beam. Temp supporting the main beam as was done and the floor joists with a 4X4 spanning a number of them with another hydraulic jack arrangement while placing that angle iron, could have all been done in one shot.
@Mr. Meeseeks Bru Star is right. There's little composite action and no individual flexion since the angle is not supported. To some limit we could say the wood beam is supporting the angle, so after all this work, he just added load to the existing structure.
@@effinchad if i understand your question....the floor joists are still supported in the same way---via the heavy steel hangers that he described that go over the top of the floor joists (between the sub-floor and the joist)
The flag leg of the angle is doing little to strenthen that beam. Two pieces of 1/4" plate, one on each side of the beam would have done a better job of restoring its strength.
@@jd3497 I'm no structural engineer but I do think it helps. The way I see it that beam is holding the joists wich are holding the floor between posts. With all that weight the main beam would want to sag down between posts. Sagging down means that the very top of the beam will want to compress, the middle should see no movement and the bottom wants to strech. This means that it will need to strech the angle iron to sag. That angle is doing something.
Very interesting video! I have never seen such American wooden house with my own eyes, but i do enjoy seeing all the ins and outs of them. This was a solid and proper repair.
Cameron Knowles The Netherlands :-) Almost every house is concrete and bricks and boring building style here.. After seeing stone for 30 years it’s interesting to see the other construction methods with wood and drywalls and such.
Richard van Pukkem its called “western platform framing” virtually all houses built in the USA in the last 100 years on basements and crawl spaces have used this. Its strong, lightweight and economical.
Richard van Pukkem It's refreshing to hear someone actually say nice things about our way of building! Most people just complain about how much better their way is compared to ours.
I apply anti-seize to all such threaded connections. You'll be glad you did years later when adjustment time comes. An angle grinder with cutting disc makes short work of cutting posts too (6" minimum diameter to use 6" cutting disks preferred).
When I was assigned in the Middle East by my government in 1975 (I was 49 years old by that time) I am also an adventurous guy so I went from village to village and I saw a carpenter doing something strange and he told me he is making Aramaic wood which is wood of the Aramaic Bible. He cuts the timber into very thin, long, rectangular sheets and placed the 1st layer on a very thick and flat metal non-sticking anodized surface that has guiding pins made out of the same material on it's sides, then he brush it with a thick layer of boiling sap resins and places an another one on it and repeats the same process until he has reached the desired thickness and then a non-stick annodized thick metal plate is place on it and his sons and nephews places iron weights on it. He said they sometimes use a large number of vices to compress the material. He also said they do not make this woof often anymore except as timber beams and timber posts, joists and rafters and wall frames, stair way supporting frames, floor and wall and stepping stairway foundation planks, foundation door frames and doors only for very well to do traditional families. They only do it for the main wood foundation structures only for the hardened and cured sap resins discolors the very thin wood layers as it penetrates and saturates the wood. Then they place a thin layer of the desired wood and use modern wood glue and small nails to cover it with non-discolored wood. And it is almost virtually impossible to break because if he takes two pieces of thin wood layers and used the same technique of binding them together and holding them in a very tight vice the layer between the two pieces of wood will not break but only either the outer sides will start to crack but when used as a very thick planks, beams, posts, joists, rafters, stairway supporting frames, etc it is virtually indestructible. I asked an Aramaic Priest about the historical background of the Aramaic wood and he said it is the same kind of wood used by Noah to build his Ark! When properly made, hardened, and cured, and seasoned it should last forever and will outlast any metal and stone and clay and ceramics known to man. The gopher wood mentioned in the Chrisian Bible is actually structural laminated wood, only done in the original Pre-Flood methods and techniques.
I think I need to do this to my house. I don’t have any holes in the main beam, but my floors bounce and squeak like an old station wagon. Of course, I’ll have to get a professional opinion first.
Ok I have a question, yes I can see how the angle iron would be great for supporting the load bearing beam my question is would it not be stronger to use bolts with nuts or have another piece of metal to go around the beam and then weld them together? Seems like an awful lot of weight for tiny screws and it’s only as strong as it’s weakest link
I've fixed joist in homes where someone cut the main joist in half to run PVC to the toilet. They cut through the heating ductwork and run the dryer vent into the insulation . Great video for people
NO. It's concrete filled. There's nothing wrong with the way it's been installed. You will accomplish NOTHING by welding as the plates are wedged against the floor and beam so there is no mechanical advantage gained by welding.
John the Schreiner I don’t think it will ever come out the way it is now. The pole is stuck between those 4 centering bumps on the plates and a whole houseload of weight on top of it. I dont expect cars are going to crash into it in the basement :-)
Welding and painting the bottom one, may be worth the time, to prevent any galvanic corrosion, which is likely since it is a basement and cooler and more humid air will be down there. The other post rusted since their was likely standing water at some point.
No I never thought there was anything wrong with the way it was installed. My though was more for lateral movement if those bumps would hold it well enough and it couldn't hurt to throw a bead down. Though like Richard said, not likely to see a whole lot of cars driving through the basement haha.
A few years ago a friend wanted to remove two columns in his garage. The span was 32 feet and only carried a snow load. A laminated beam would have been too deep so we used a 12" CEE (metal building component). It took six of us to get the CEE in place, but it worked fine.
Shouldn't a grommet be installed on the copper pipe where it passes through the steel beam to eliminate the risk of contact and corrosion? I wish I had Tom as a neighbor. Got a few projects that are way over my head but too cheap to hire someone.
If you're going to add Shark-Bite couplings, it would be a good opportunity to add a Shark-Bite ball valve in place of one of the couplings. The line may already have a valve on it further upstream, but I've never cussed myself for having "too many valves."
He shouldn’t have used a Shark-Bite fitting to begin with. I’d put money on it leaking a year after this was filmed, and in addition he didn’t properly prep the copper pipe prior to putting the fitting on.
Tom Silva is awesome. I have learned so much from him since I was a kid. The only thing I wish he would have done was weld in place the top and bottom plates to the lally collumn.
The only thing that puzzles me is how did Tommy get the lally column cut so precisely that when the support beam was lowered, it fit tightly despite having the steel plates at the top and bottom to account for.
Someone removed 18" of my main beam approximately in the middle of the house for an old oil heater install. The inspector didn't catch it, I removed the oil heater and supported the main beam on either side and nailed 2 x 8s on either side and added beams below it. When the house was inspected again when I sold it 10 years later, they didn't complain. On one side of the house, the concrete sank and cracked where the main beam was supported, and the concrete sank on either side. One side was so much lower than when constructed, I was able to pound a 2 x 4 in to add support. The house was built in 1944 before building codes on fill dirt.
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Tommy doesn't even take his jacket off before he starts sawing the jack-post out of some dude's house. Absolute legend.
To anyone that thinks that the rust on the bottom of the column is not a problem let me tell you this. I have repaired and replaced many steel columns that have had the bottom end completely rusted away. This can be hard to see without measuring or using a level on the supported structure because the metal rusts away slowly over the years and the weight of the house slowly crushes the rusted metal making it appear to be a solid post. Concrete filled steel posts are a very good way to go.
1. Tighten lag screws until snug.
2. Continue tightening until fastener spins without resistance.
3. Add many more lag screws.
4. Fire film editor.
I seen that too
And me.
@Russ Gallagher you have to use thru bolts and nuts
@KamekoBruns yeah maybe but then why did he strip out every lag screw in the video
@@adamkalman6011 I was wondering if he was stripping it or breaking off the head also. I think it just might be that the steel was still a little ways from being pulled tight against the wood but without the wider view it appears as though it is stripping out.
Every homeowner should be subscribed to this channel. I remember watching this show on TV with my dad when I was a kid in the 90s. I'm 32 now and own a home.
Same🙃
How the hell do you have a house
@@camohawk6703 Work.
@@Lusterredux OOF!
same here brother. used to watch this with my grandpa. i’m 29 now and own my own home which i enjoy working on!
For those pipe couplings you need to remove the burr from the end of the pipe or it will tear the rubber seal causing a leak
I caught that also.
@@davidherman1803 And should have cleaned the pipe also.
I polish all mine. Only takes a few seconds with emery cloth or sandpaper.
@@Comm0ut doesn't that hurt 🤣
Also noticed that they didn't insulate the copper going through the steel support they installed. I didn't think steel and copper mix?
A couple thing that are very important.
1) Cap the temp post or use plate to keep the bottle jack from splitting the post right up the middle causing catastrophic failure of the temp support while under load.
2) This type of fix requires a structural engineer to design, it is not in the code book. A structural engineer would require at least 1/2" through bolts for this assembly. It is only accommodating the tension at the bottom of the beam and transferring the upper beams compression through moment at the Fastners.
3) The new column needs to be connected to the foundation below and the beam above to prevent uplift per code (in case of severe weather/high winds)
4) Those water pipe connections are considered mechanical and must be accessible (not covered with drywall) and you must clean (sanding or brushing) the pipe first, plus debur the pipe according to the manufactures requirements and code. The copper pipe must not make contact with the steel, this is required by code due to corrosion that occurs when differential metal make contact. This pipe will corrode and eventually leak.
Dielectric effect
Good stuff
I agree with your analysis in point #2. Code compliant joist hole repair kits are readily available from a number of manufacturers including Metwood Building Solutions and are much easier to install that large piece of steel. I also agree with point #4 that the pipe needs to be deburred before using Sharkbite connectors. You also need to verify that the copper pipe is not being used to ground the electrical system because the plastic lining in the Sharkbite does not conduct electricity. If so, you need to also install a jumper ground wire. .
@@fredthe47thI’m an Engineer and while everyone is stating some decent points, you’re all over thinking the angle iron replacement. Yes, the loss in strength of the beam is on top (compression side) but the angle iron is about 40x stronger and will take the compression. With that said, the engineered lag screws are way more than sufficient to handle to minor load the angle iron is going to transfer. While it may not be up to “code” in certain areas, I’ve seen plenty of houses and buildings that would never meet todays code but are way stronger and built better than new up to code homes.
You’re all missing what’s called “composite action” of combining two different materials of vastly different strengths (steel and wood). Essentially, the steel will take all the load so the “compression side” of the wood beam above most of the angle iron won’t ever see the load because the angle iron would have to deflect to transfer the load (never happen with that size angle iron). Lastly, although “code” doesn’t allow the use flooring in structural design except for special applications, all the subfloor above and possible even wood flooring above that will contribute to the overall strength of that beam. Subfloor and possible hardwood floor are all nailed together.
While this is a lengthy explanation for educational purposes, it’s only to point out that there is a lot of redundancy and safety factors in design and people tend to overthink things. It’s all one giant system of things fastened together and it could’ve been fixed with as little as two 1/4” thick steel plates on either side and some galvanized framing nails. That alone would’ve replaced the bending capacity loss of that beam.
@@fredthe47th if the lag bolts aren’t strong enough, they’d shear off. I guess only time will tell but I do know 10 of those lag bolts are stronger then the area of the beam cut out (compression parallel to the grain), which is probably around 500 PSI. If they cut out 10 square inches of the section, that’s 5,000 lbs of force lost. Cheap engineered 3/8” nominal lag bolts agave an allowable load of 965 lb. Typical design values for lag bolts is 4:1. So in reality, each lag bolt is good for 3,500 lbs. There’s also a bunch of minor adjustment factors and all that jazz but trust me, I do this for a living on a larger commercial scale. If he had expensive lag bolts, you can double the load I just put up there. Those “wimpy” lag bolts are a lot stronger than people think.
Tom is one of the best G C 's this show has ever had , he is worth his weight is gold!
Recalling days of old, jacking up, replacing, beams etc....with my father. Chicago. Nice type of work.
"Give it a quatah turn"
"Quarter turn"
"QUATAH TURN"
Bastan slang!… get the cah!
@@unclesalty7778 the what? why do you need the cat?
@@walterbrunswick
Cat? No neighbor, CAR in Boston stand it’s the Cah!
@@unclesalty7778 'twas a joke my good man
🍼
9:26 "I had no idea how to fix this"
If he would have just watched this video first he could have learned.
...
hehehe
...
@@BossladySupreme313no
I cannot believe all of what I have just learned in one video. Things I just did not know. I just became a first time homeowner and I know for a fact the repairs I just watched will be a huge help in understanding what I must look for and how to correct these issues. One being the main beam support.
It's amazing how someone who has built homes all his life can't afford to buy a home that he built but here you are, no idea, probably couldn't reset a circuit breaker or unscrew a garden hose and you just bought a house.
@@TempoDrift1480 What's your point here? He made his money in whatever, and bought a house. He knows how to save and succeed. If someone that has built houses all his/her life can't afford one themselves, well, I hate to break it to you--- but the fault lies with that person. Are they working for someone else? Are they the one in charge? Why aren't they making money? Are they not charging enough for their services? Are they a poor workman? There's a reason for their failure, and that the "someone" would envy others instead of trying to figure out their own failings, speaks volumes.
It's easy to be jealous, hard to actually do something about one's life.
Man this video just saved me $2000 I can do it
@@TempoDrift1480 why do you believe that someone who built homes all his life can't afford to buy a home?
@@TempoDrift1480 Should they just give them out for free to people who build houses? I am confused haha; Tech pays a lot better than a construction job, maybe you should switch careers instead of crying over spilt milk, no ?
Tommy is the wizard. The knowledge and ability this man has is incredible. Been watching him for many years.
Tom Silva is a total guru. This guy is a complete master of all trades. Amazing guy to watch with his knowledge and expertise.
Tommy is a absolute master of so many trades. Amazing expertise, knowledge, and skills.
I wish he would pay me a visit!
@@fredthe47th Right!! I cringed at every single lag screw drilled in there, wayyy overtightened. the threads certainly aren't holding onto much
7:44 Nice plug for Boston Welding!!
Here Tom...a free piece of steel for a 10 second commercial...I love it
For those who find this video, here are a couple of comments on the structural engineering side: First, there are better, easier products out there for replacing steel posts, sold in the big box stores, that don't require lifting the house a half an inch.
Second, regarding the angle iron repair, I'm not entirely thrilled with their solution. Not because I don't think it works. But because I think it may mislead people into thinking that any piece of angle iron will fix any notch.
The root problem with the beam is that it has a giant notch in the top cord in the moment-critical region of the beam. The solution they picked is really the lesser of two "installation" evils. Normally with top cord notching in a moment-critical region, you need to reinforce the top cord, which is in compression. This is normally accomplished by adding Area Moment of Inertia back to the top cord of beam with new steel along the top cord. This isn't possible with the joists and hangers in the way.
Putting steel in the way they did, they treated the remaining wood under the notch as a weakened shallow depth beam. They added Area Moment of Inertia along the bottom cord of the beam, and along the lower half of the side of the beam. And this is an important point: had this been thinner angle iron, the angle would have merely reinforced the shear capacity (with the vertical leg of the angle iron), and the bottom cord tension capacity (with the horizontal leg of the angle iron), and done nothing for the top. Since it's much thicker steel, they were able to add more Area Moment of Intertia where it was needed at the top, which makes the solution work.
So did this thick piece of angle reinforce the beam? Yes, but only because it was very thick. A quarter inch angle would have done very little, so I hope folks out there don't assume that any piece of angle will fix any notch. There is a specific calculation that an engineer will do to make sure the right thickness of steel is selected.
This is a breathtakingly great comment. Thank you.
Great comment. Can you tell us what that calculation is? I'm facing a similar problem with a carrying beam in my house.
More of a Norm fan but Tom knows his stuff he had the fix in his head in seconds made it easy on himself. He is probably the best carpenter to ever have a tv show
"ohhh I found this on the side of the road" lmao
Haha
I actually have.
Lol
Sounds like my grandpa. He always finds goodies on the side of the road
What a legend
Not that I know how to do half this stuff, but I always love listening to the homeowners when he's talking technical stuff and his process of what he's going to do. "Ok...sounds good...great..."
(insert "I have no idea what I'm doing" meme)
Yep, they do that all the time (lol).
Tom got so excited that kept on drilling. (:
I'm in the process of buying a 100 year old shack and everything in it is in need of repair from years of neglect. This video answered one of my big fears and I'm grateful for it! Y'all wanna come over and help out with some other leveling/structural/venting/roofing/electrical/well....just about everything issues I'm having???? (Please, pretty please!) Lol.
Been 6 years man how'd it come along? I'm in that process rn this is definitely my biggest fear but not huge only maybe got 5k worth of weight above my beam so should be an easy fix. But how'd it go?
Tom is an awesome teacher and carpenter...thanks for sharing your knowledge with everyone...GB!
I'm always amazed that you can lift all that weight with a bottle jack. It's insane.
I lift 40 tons of steel at work with 2 5/8" nuts, length of threaded rod, and 2 wrenchs. Way safer than what he's doing. It's not even that much weight
@@highstreetkillers4377 would you elaborate on this or post a video on it? Curiosity about moving 40 tons like that has struck me. 40 tons = 80,000 pounds. Seems like an awful lot of weight.
I purchased a 20 ton bottle jack for use on a triple decker
While I couldn't tell you exactly how much weight is being lifted here remember that the house is supported in many different places and this theme is probably carrying something like 1/20th the total weight or something like that. You should look up a video of moving houses they come along and use a whole bunch of these jacks and lift the whole thing off the foundation put a trailer under it and down the road
@@highstreetkillers4377 Let's see you jack up a house beam with your threaded rod.
I was blessed to have opportunity to work on house built in 1919 by Finnish settlers.. (in Canada) we replaced old joists logs with new ones. Cutting and fitting the multi-faset joints was fun and a great learning experience.
Tommy, we're all convinced that you were one of the Egyptian Engineers who designed the Great Pyramid of Cheops. Your solutions are always superb and totally effective. Glad you were able to reincarnate -- to help us plebians with these (much) less challenging projects. Keep up the good work!
Plumbing was one of my concerns for jacking a house,I'm glad to see you included plumbing in this,thanks for the great video,very informative and not too long.
When Tommy got back to the barn, Rich flogged him with 1/2 inch pex pipe for using that push fitting.
Should those cut pipes be deburred before fitting?
Tommy not in plumber union so they only let him use push fitting.... He not not certified on using the deburring tool yet.
@@mantroid why run pipe back there hole I would went under I'm not drilling a hole threw main beam for any pipe or ducts.
I would have at least wiped off the schmutz before refitting the pipes!
nothing wrong with those shark bites
Tom Silva, you are a very useful person to other people, hats off !!
Simple, practical & shows how we can all at least think about doing similar things around our houses.
Copper plumbing should never be in contact with dissimilar metals if you want longevity. Not to mention using couplings to join copper pipe.
Some good structural points given.
I would of liked two angles sandwiching the joist with nuts and bolts sandwiching rather than just the screws from one side.
I gave it a thumbs up for the home owner.. seems like a nice guy
Great video
But one question. Why didn’t you weld steel post to the plates ?
REALBIGBOY997 I know that but the post wasn’t welded to the plates. So it still can go left and right
REALBIGBOY997 true but I’m a completist. I would have finished it no matter what. That just me tho. 🤓
Cutting a big hole in a joist reminds me of my neighbour who knocked out a brick column to make more room in his kitchen, without stopping to wonder why it was there.
I know a guy who liked to water ski.
He didn't like the water in his boat when he got back on board so he cut a hole in the bottom of the hull to let the water out.
@@googleuser868 now that has to be a joke 🤣
I like the steel angle but the Simpson SDS or similar lag screws I don't think are big enough to do the job. In the past, in similar situations, I've drilled through the beam and steel angle then installed 1/2" or 3/4" bolts with 3" square washers on the backside, 2 bolts every 12". Also, 1 1/2"x4" lag on the bottom offset from interfering with the through bolts on the side.
@Brexit Monger There are pros and cons. Beam manufactures consider holes less than 10% of the beam negligible and since they would be securely attaching 3/8" angle steel, I'd consider it a net plus. Those SDS screws are intended for hangers and foundation brackets, not a big length of steel holding up a compromised floor system.
Tom you're great next video on the fittings maybe it would be wise to discuss deburring and marking stab depths. I've been a watcher of yours from the beginning and you definitely know a whole lot regarding building.
Sorry to hear about Roger,.I grew up watching you guys,I know he'll be missed God speed. Andrew
You should put a bushing between the steel beam and copper tube. Not to guard against chaffing so much but against a slight tendency for electrolysis. You can do it retroactively with a split bushing.
There could even be chaffing if there is water hammer
Tom needs to be a teacher. His knowledge is honed by a lifetime of experience and is as valuable as anything they teach in any college.
Seriously. With the shortage of tradesmen these days, if I had any serious money, I'd open a contractor school and make Tommy the principal.
Man, when he said "This ain't going anywhere" I knew that he had done the job to completion.
true. its an important step of any repair. tap it twice and say "it ant goin anywhere". otherwise, it might fall out.
I know many trades except for Carpentry, no one better to learn than with Tom.
That was a fun watch. Someone should find and slap the guy who cut that huge hole in the main beam though.
MoneyManHolmes I see such movie scene in front of me now where they search a forest with a row of police and dogs to find the bad guy
So much for code
MoneyManHolmes q
A lot of similar travesties all over old houses thanks to crappy HVAC runs.
Mike Holmes would've ripped it
all down & started over.
Tommy is greatest teacher.
Think first, pick up you tool second.
i been watching this program for so many years is the best of best thank you
I am not a pro by any stretch, but my physics brain is wondering why the new pole is not used underneth the angle iron a few inches away? Would I have been wrong if I fixed the new pole under the sistered angle iron?
Please forgive me for asking, I am simply curious.
Great job by the way, you make it look so easy!! I am sure I am not the only one that was blown away by your added details regarding this entire project. Awesome job!!
He makes it look easy and is a good contractor. Although I think the angle looks too short. Transferring the bending forces into the steel from the wood beam is very difficult over such a short length. I also won't recommend that column type in and earthquake zone. If you mix in some vertical and horizontal accelerations, the column may not be supporting your floor anymore. It relies on the house weight to keep it fixed in place. You should also probably add a temporary shore just in case the hydraulics in the jack fails.
You know he works in the northeast (not an earthquake zone). Your valid point is that he should’ve used two posts in case the Jack failed or post split. That’s just a safety item though. Even though the Jack could fail, that only means the beam would deflect more but it wouldn’t cause structural damage, more damage to the finished above (like floor tile cracking). He would’ve just had bevel the bottom of a new post shore and bang it in so the beam lifted up and took the deflection out. I’d put a lot of money on the fact that the header beams size is not governed by its failure but it’s maximum deflection limits. I’m an engineer and long span beams are almost always upsized numerous sizes just to minimize deflection. That beam could easily deflect an inch or two and wouldn’t break (but obviously don’t want that to happen).
@@nybirdman I didn't say he was in an EQ zone. I am not recommending this type of column for an EQ zone. It is also not a good idea in areas with strong winds.
Wood beam are very commonly governed by bending. But when a simple span gets long, the wood beams are generally governed by deflection. The continuity of the beam makes it more likely that bending governs. If you run some ball park numbers, you will see the beam is likely sufficient for deflection but is undersized for bending strength (assuming a 6x10 D.Fir N0. 1 grade with 14' trib width and 13' span and no 2nd floor or roof load transfers). The steel angle is even weaker than the beam.
A few lag screws are not sufficient to transfer that bending force regardless if the beam is deflection or bending controlled.
If the column comes down far enough, it can cause a instability between the jack and the temporary column. A kink develops between the jack and the temporary column. This causes the top of the jack and bottom of the column to move laterally. So it can be a life safety issue especially with the large notch in the beam. It is better to add a second temporary column.
The major mistake that they made was not having an engineer design the repair. I would also say, the better way to get a proper fix is to add a column and footing below the notch.
I love this old house.
Hi TOH , Tommy was funny when he said that he found that beam alongside the road , nice repair Tom ! 👍😊🛠
If you pour a cement base for the post to sit on, it won't rust again. My 170 year old house has some of them. The ones with the cement base aren't rusting.
Nice work Tom. Can I ask why you did not install the steel angle first and the lally underneath it?
I wish I could have such trust in a local contractor!
at minimum tack weld those plates to the post so that if you ever need to replace the other post and jack the beam up again, you don't have that one fall out. Also, put a grommet around that copper pipe going through the new steel angle to prevent corrosion if anything moves and touches.
Grommet, Very Important, at least electrical tape. Basements are moist, you’re gonna have galvanic corrosion with steel & copper
general4str it’s surprising that someone who appears to have so much experience still missed those details. I don’t even work construction and I saw that post needed to be secured to the beam and maybe the floor
I was wondering if anyone else noticed the lack of welding. I kept on waiting for him to do it. A good trip/fall by a drunk uncle could knock that thing out of place
@@laureline4774 that wouldn't happen due to the amount of weight on that column. However should a seismic event occur it certainly can become loose and fall out of place.
@@inspectorsj It is required by Code to have positive connections of the foundation columns to prevent uplift on the structure during severe weather events.
Great video. Before you connect the copper water line up with push fittings please make sure you deburr the inside and sand the outside first!
Or just throw the Sharkbites in the trash can where they belong and do it properly.
I cringed when I saw him do this. It takes so little work to solder in a couple couplers!
@@reedspencer6631 are you going to be ok? Are you still cringing?
Even Tom looked like he was afraid to be in that basement
How long should an angle iron extend past the damaged portion of a carrying beam that is 8” x 5 6/8”? Also, what should the hole pattern be drilled like? I see the hole pattern is staggered between the top & bottom holes. How far in would the 1st hole at the bottom start? Where would the 1st hole start at the top? How far apart should each hole be spaced between each other? Is the space between the holes different regarding the top holes spacing and the bottom holes spacing for screws?
7:59 That gut-wrenching moment when the bolt you're tightening suddenly becomes loose...
must have been waiting for it to click? :)
Video editor "eh maybe no one will notice"
Did they edit it out? I didn't hear it spin
That's a torque-limited drill he's using. When it hits the torque you set on it, it just spins.
@@verafides1 ? the wood stripped out.
Tom Silva is the Mozart of masonry and metal work, and he is the Cambini of carpentry!
Why not adjust the steel post position to support that steel angle and thus improve the structure even more?
I guess it must be to reuse the foundation underneath the old post
That was one question, or at least get an angle iron that was an extra 8" longer so it could have reached to the support column...
Hopefully there is a footer or at least some extra thick concrete below the position of that post carrying that load. If you move the post you're no longer over the footing
Pro tip: Step 1 - Hire a structural engineer by the hour BEFORE you do anything. As a structural engineer I can tell you that massive angle will do absolutely nothing to retrofit that load carrying beam. but instead add even more dead weight to it. Trust me, everyone will sleep tight.
Agreed. Had he added the iron to the TOP chord of that beam then maybe it would have helped with the compression forces, otherwise there was no help in adding tension resistance to the bottom chord. Dam.
Are those lag bolts supposed to spin freely after they’re all the way in?
Well, they arent spinning freely, but he's drilling the bolts for WAY to long, they're in, he still spins them for 2-3-4 seconds, in will rip the wood inside, and it wont hold as good-> But well, look at the amount of screws, well doesnt really matter that much
The whole time I was thinking Tom let go of the trigger.
I suppose there isn't really any longitudinal force on them to pull them out, so no big deal; I would still have been tempted to put some epoxy in there to give them a firm hold though.
I was searching the comments just to see if anyone else noticed that. Lol.
lmao, he's an animal
Amazing explanation! It's very clear and helpful in terms of structure elements and also the solutions.
Specially about blocking between the joists and their role. Very well done. I'm grateful 👍🙏
I recently had a deck installed (10 feet above ground) that also serves as a carport and I had to use four PSL parallam plus beams for support. The first step was a load calculation / beam deflection which is a must for any load bearing structure.
This is great! I have a girder beam under my living room with 2 ft of old termite damage. I think this will fix the problem.
Great fixes, but a few mistakes were made. Always deburr and clean copper pipes (ID & OD) before making connections, even with sharkbites. Also, the way he cut a close fit clearance hole in the L channel bracket for the copper pipe to fit through will eventually cause corrosion. (Dissimilar metals in contact, running water as the electrolyte) This exact fix was done in my house when a hack ran plumbing just nearly cutting the joist in half. Over time the angle iron in contact with copper pipes corroded and caused leaks in my garage on my vehicle. When I cut it all out to replace it and fix the problem, I split the pipes in half on my bandsaw to see how bad it was, and the copper walls were perforated, paper thin wherever in contact with the steel. You can also avoid this by putting a rubber grommet, or anything to isolate the metals. Otherwise a stout fix as always.
briancnc yes incompatibility of metals is often overlooked . Good points.
While I don't think they showed it, the pipes did look like they had been deburred. It also looked like the hole in the angle iron was drilled slightly larger than the hole in the beam. I agree that a rubber grommet would be a very simple addition that would prevent any contact though.
Good points Brian
Even just rolling a couple of layers of typing paper around the copper and shoving in to prevent contact with the steel would greatly improve it. Very simple and very little clearance needed.
These cues are all spoilers for the next episode when tretheway fixes all of Tommy’s mistakes.
I agree that solid bridging is better that the x-slat bridging my builder used. But I wonder why Tom used a pressed in coupler for the copper pipe instead of sweating in a copper coupler.
08:02 That screw was overtightened for like 3 seconds. Those shark-bite plumbing parts do also not give a lot of confidence, even being in a basement. I am only a hobby-plumber, but I still think people have a much higher esteem for these sorts of solutions than what they deserve. Plumbing needs to have an extreme degree of reliability to it, because the consequences of failures are so great. Shark bite should have very limited use, only to areas where failure is without anything but very small losses.
I had a plumber who came by and because my crawl space was flooded from a busted pipe, he proceeded to tell me if its not fixed within a few days my house will collapse and slide down the side of the mountain im on.
Lolz
Should a level be put on the main carrier beam to make sure it is level before cutting the new lally column? Seems to me it would be a good idea in case it was already sagging from the cut made in it.
no
If it's been out of level a long time, all the walls above could be too. Leveling it could leave you with a lot of cracked plaster/drywall and other damage. Unless you're doing a more extensive job above, likely best to leave it at the same level.
Tom Silva doing plumbing, Never thought I would see that
Why not have ordered the Angle Iron long enough to transit all the way to the new jack-post so that at least one end of it is not reliant upon wood screws into the support beam. Temp supporting the main beam as was done and the floor joists with a 4X4 spanning a number of them with another hydraulic jack arrangement while placing that angle iron, could have all been done in one shot.
@Mr. Meeseeks
Bru Star is right. There's little composite action and no individual flexion since the angle is not supported. To some limit we could say the wood beam is supporting the angle, so after all this work, he just added load to the existing structure.
Added to, the joists in that area aren't even fastened enough to that beam or the angle iron in any way. Or they didn't show it.
@@effinchad if i understand your question....the floor joists are still supported in the same way---via the heavy steel hangers that he described that go over the top of the floor joists (between the sub-floor and the joist)
The flag leg of the angle is doing little to strenthen that beam. Two pieces of 1/4" plate, one on each side of the beam would have done a better job of restoring its strength.
@@jd3497 I'm no structural engineer but I do think it helps. The way I see it that beam is holding the joists wich are holding the floor between posts. With all that weight the main beam would want to sag down between posts. Sagging down means that the very top of the beam will want to compress, the middle should see no movement and the bottom wants to strech. This means that it will need to strech the angle iron to sag. That angle is doing something.
I’ve probably watched this at least 10 times, still enjoy this video
Very interesting video! I have never seen such American wooden house with my own eyes, but i do enjoy seeing all the ins and outs of them. This was a solid and proper repair.
Richard van Pukkem where do you live
Cameron Knowles The Netherlands :-) Almost every house is concrete and bricks and boring building style here.. After seeing stone for 30 years it’s interesting to see the other construction methods with wood and drywalls and such.
Richard van Pukkem its called “western platform framing” virtually all houses built in the USA in the last 100 years on basements and crawl spaces have used this. Its strong, lightweight and economical.
Richard van Pukkem It's refreshing to hear someone actually say nice things about our way of building! Most people just complain about how much better their way is compared to ours.
Green Iron and Black Guns it’s also a lot easier to retro fit things like adding and replacing wires and pipes
I apply anti-seize to all such threaded connections. You'll be glad you did years later when adjustment time comes. An angle grinder with cutting disc makes short work of cutting posts too (6" minimum diameter to use 6" cutting disks preferred).
Nice job Tom! You always do amazing work. Keep it up.
When I was assigned in the Middle East by my government in 1975 (I was 49 years old by that time) I am also an adventurous guy so I went from village to village and I saw a carpenter doing something strange and he told me he is making Aramaic wood which is wood of the Aramaic Bible. He cuts the timber into very thin, long, rectangular sheets and placed the 1st layer on a very thick and flat metal non-sticking anodized surface that has guiding pins made out of the same material on it's sides, then he brush it with a thick layer of boiling sap resins and places an another one on it and repeats the same process until he has reached the desired thickness and then a non-stick annodized thick metal plate is place on it and his sons and nephews places iron weights on it.
He said they sometimes use a large number of vices to compress the material. He also said they do not make this woof often anymore except as timber beams and timber posts, joists and rafters and wall frames, stair way supporting frames, floor and wall and stepping stairway foundation planks, foundation door frames and doors only for very well to do traditional families.
They only do it for the main wood foundation structures only for the hardened and cured sap resins discolors the very thin wood layers as it penetrates and saturates the wood. Then they place a thin layer of the desired wood and use modern wood glue and small nails to cover it with non-discolored wood.
And it is almost virtually impossible to break because if he takes two pieces of thin wood layers and used the same technique of binding them together and holding them in a very tight vice the layer between the two pieces of wood will not break but only either the outer sides will start to crack but when used as a very thick planks, beams, posts, joists, rafters, stairway supporting frames, etc it is virtually indestructible.
I asked an Aramaic Priest about the historical background of the Aramaic wood and he said it is the same kind of wood used by Noah to build his Ark! When properly made, hardened, and cured, and seasoned it should last forever and will outlast any metal and stone and clay and ceramics known to man. The gopher wood mentioned in the Chrisian Bible is actually structural laminated wood, only done in the original Pre-Flood methods and techniques.
I have the sudden urge for 'Boston Welding'.
I don’t think they deliver.
Uber eats
Would you like files with that?
Support the joists near the beams hole. Cut them back 1-1/5, glue and lag a sistered 2x12, refasten joist hangers and joists to beam.
I think I need to do this to my house. I don’t have any holes in the main beam, but my floors bounce and squeak like an old station wagon. Of course, I’ll have to get a professional opinion first.
Allen Cruce prob just need to scab some joists along your existing ones. Pretty easy fix
Tom is a good man to have around. His wife is a very lucky lady!
I could feel that steel and concrete pipe just missing his toes!
I was thinking this is a nice way to break some toes LOL
@@toddlavigne6441 I can still feel the red hot paper clip being used to poke a hole in the toenails to let the pressure out....
It's fine. He was wearing safety glasses.
@@haider254 😂
I've broken a toe with less than that weighs.
I am big fan of TOM.
Really enjoyed this one! Nice solid fix..
1806StoneHouse p
1806StoneHouse mm
I would love to work with this guy to learn the basics ...
Ok I have a question, yes I can see how the angle iron would be great for supporting the load bearing beam my question is would it not be stronger to use bolts with nuts or have another piece of metal to go around the beam and then weld them together? Seems like an awful lot of weight for tiny screws and it’s only as strong as it’s weakest link
Load supporting walls are always very important to take into account.
COULD YOU PLEASE DO A VIDEO ON HOW TO REPAIR A DAMAGED JIM BEAM NEXT ? ASKING FOR A DRUNKEN FRIEND.
.....the show would be called "this 'ol bar"🤣🤣🤣🗽'merica!!
@@robertgrider4346 L.O.L.
This guy is so lucky to work with Tommy.
And in a couple of years when that solderless joint fails, This Old House can come back to fix it properly.
I've fixed joist in homes where someone cut the main joist in half to run PVC to the toilet. They cut through the heating ductwork and run the dryer vent into the insulation . Great video for people
So with the new column, would it be better to weld the top and bottom plates onto the column so it's one piece?
John the Schreiner yes
NO. It's concrete filled. There's nothing wrong with the way it's been installed. You will accomplish NOTHING by welding as the plates are wedged against the floor and beam so there is no mechanical advantage gained by welding.
John the Schreiner I don’t think it will ever come out the way it is now. The pole is stuck between those 4 centering bumps on the plates and a whole houseload of weight on top of it. I dont expect cars are going to crash into it in the basement :-)
Welding and painting the bottom one, may be worth the time, to prevent any galvanic corrosion, which is likely since it is a basement and cooler and more humid air will be down there. The other post rusted since their was likely standing water at some point.
No I never thought there was anything wrong with the way it was installed. My though was more for lateral movement if those bumps would hold it well enough and it couldn't hurt to throw a bead down. Though like Richard said, not likely to see a whole lot of cars driving through the basement haha.
Thank you to keep such a great work, but I believe it will be more safe if you installed the post under the iron beam.
4:29 homeowner on the right: *"what im doing here"*
Boston Welding. Love it. ❤
Tommy is the best!!!
A few years ago a friend wanted to remove two columns in his garage. The span was 32 feet and only carried a snow load. A laminated beam would have been too deep so we used a 12" CEE (metal building component). It took six of us to get the CEE in place, but it worked fine.
Shouldn't a grommet be installed on the copper pipe where it passes through the steel beam to eliminate the risk of contact and corrosion? I wish I had Tom as a neighbor. Got a few projects that are way over my head but too cheap to hire someone.
yes absolutely. dis-similar metals should never touch.
Sharp eye!
Gave it the blessing at the end, "That's not going anywhere"
If you're going to add Shark-Bite couplings, it would be a good opportunity to add a Shark-Bite ball valve in place of one of the couplings. The line may already have a valve on it further upstream, but I've never cussed myself for having "too many valves."
He shouldn’t have used a Shark-Bite fitting to begin with. I’d put money on it leaking a year after this was filmed, and in addition he didn’t properly prep the copper pipe prior to putting the fitting on.
Tom Silva is awesome. I have learned so much from him since I was a kid. The only thing I wish he would have done was weld in place the top and bottom plates to the lally collumn.
would be more secure, but is it necessary with the weight of the house pinning it in place?
As a welder myself, I thought that too, but the weight of the house is probably more than enough to pin it down solid.
The only thing that puzzles me is how did Tommy get the lally column cut so precisely that when the support beam was lowered, it fit tightly despite having the steel plates at the top and bottom to account for.
Math and tape measures are some of the oldest tools humankind has 🙂
Someone removed 18" of my main beam approximately in the middle of the house for an old oil heater install. The inspector didn't catch it, I removed the oil heater and supported the main beam on either side and nailed 2 x 8s on either side and added beams below it. When the house was inspected again when I sold it 10 years later, they didn't complain. On one side of the house, the concrete sank and cracked where the main beam was supported, and the concrete sank on either side. One side was so much lower than when constructed, I was able to pound a 2 x 4 in to add support. The house was built in 1944 before building codes on fill dirt.
Jeff Harris What a heart-stopping thing to discover!!