+TheCarPassionChannel idk what it is but you shoukd be a teacher or something... the amount of knowledge that you drop in a way people can pick up easily is phenominal!! keep up the great work! just the right amount of hummor too.. where has mrs car passion ben hidding? does she go to the track with you and stuff?
Greg, I was in this build for the budget. You've blown the budget completely out here. $14 over? You're dipping into my chic fil a money now...think I'm gonna have to unsub...
if you delete the MAF and run AIT and MAP do you still need to run the breather hole to the intake pipe work ? as your no longer metering air flow in that part of the system ??
Do u plan on making a complete parts list and possibly links to all the parts? Cause it would be awesome if you did. Thanks for the awesome vids either way!
Tucker Connette no car person does that I think they hate it when people ask for links. It’s always like “google is your friend stop being lazy” It’s like damn sorry for asking. But he said a lot of the things he got off eBay
I used a ford smog pump and ran it off a relay, that way I can add crankcase vacuum constantly (at wot when you need it) and none of the oil vapors go back into the intake (which will increase the potential for getting knock). Instead I just run it through a cheap catch can and then finally into a mountain dew bottle. Use the cardone ones off rockauto, they're $160ish canadian (super cheap in usd) and I've had one running non stop on my car for roughly 20,000km now and no issues. I haven't driven it more than 2hrs without a break mind you so it might not be ideal for super long trips but it rips and it's cheap.
Im confused. You ran the waste gate hose to the intake side of the piping. What did you do with the port opening on the cold side of the turbo that line was originally running to?
nice video. but on the valve cover vacuum line you said you angled it to make a low pressure area to create vacuum. the act of the turbo sucking in air is already vacuum and should extract the air from the head without having to need an angled fitting.
Hey Greg be careful with that cone filter, the center chrome piece has a tendency to get broken off and if that happens it will get sucked right into the turbine = no more broke and boosted. Just my 2 cents
Doesnt the air go into that valve cover breather? not out wards? so surely you would want it straight into the intake tube or even facing the other way to build up postive pressure to build up pressure and force air into the camover to be removed by the pcv which will aid crackcase ventilation?. 6.53
are you going to use a oil catch can? i recommend it. i was getting egr faults and found my egr was ubber crusty.. idk if that check valve on the pcv valve can hold out boost... my cam seals are weeping now and i think my vatozone pcv valve is to blame .. do u know how to check if ur crank case is seeing boost? also you havent mentioned ignition? what plugs you using ngk 6 or 7 hr? i thought 7 would be overkill on my 6psi but the cars running much bettter granted i went from a 5 hr plug
No catch can, and yeah the autozone PCV is junk. I may upgrade to a GTX valve. I'm not sure on timing yet, probably 6 degrees at first and I'll wait until dyno day to see if it can handle any more.
So my miata was burning oil during hard acceleration and I didn't know why. But I think I found my problem, @7:30 you put the nipple on the intake side while mine is on the charge pipe side. could that be causing my turbo to burn oil???
hey Greg....would you recommend installing the afm in between the intercooler piping and the compressor according to the air flow??you think that will help the compresor breath better??
+andres tamayo I supposed you could do that? I've never seen it. You'd have to adapt the AFM to your intercooler piping size, extend the harness, find a place to fit it, etc. It's going to be a restriction no matter where it is, so I don't see any reason to move it.
The little 3/4 inch looking coolant line off your thermostat looks super close to the pulley. Hope that doesn't cause problems... not that I follow you on snapchat or anything . Great videos Greg, your shifter rebuild video was so well done I showed it to my girlfriend and she did it all by herself. She is so proud and tells everyone. Have you replaced bushing on your other Miata?
+f2rder Hahaha. Very funny, where were you 2 days ago!!! No I haven't done it on that car, I have other things to fix first, like the passenger door not opening.
Hello! I have a miata (NB) 2000 I want to INSTALL A TURBO SYSTEM! BUT I CAN NOT FIND A SOLUTION TO INSTALL THE INTERCOOLER, SINCE I HAVE TO BREAK PART OF THE BODY, AS THE SPACE IS VERY SMALL, THERE WILL BE ANOTHER SOLUTION? THANK YOU
Quick question. I am currently turbocharging my 1990 mx-5 and I am going straight to Megasquirt PNP2. So far I have everything that I need already installed on the car except for the intercooler piping and the ems itself. I noticed that you mentioned we need to tap the Idle speed control valve into the intercooler piping if you are using the stock ecu. So, do I need to route that line into my intercooler piping if I do not plan on using the stock ecu? I have been looking for an answer but have not been able to find one. I don't want to tap the line into the piping if I don't have to. Thank you for your help.Josh
It's best to tap into the IC piping even if you're on a standalone ECU. You never know if the IACV might leak under boost; but if it's connected to the piping it won't matter!
Hey Greg I know this is an old video but it’s relevant to me right now and I could use some help. If I am running ms2 pnp do I have to connect my iac valve pipe anywhere? Or can I just put a small filter on that tube? And lastly. Can I leave that breather vent on the driver side of the head open to air or will it cause a boost leak through the vent on the passenger side when I am in boost? Thanks a ton, Ben.
Hi, when using an aftermarket ecu such as ms or me221, would I still need to plumb in the idle control valve pipe into the inlet piping? Or does the new ecu somehow manage without? Thanks Greg, such a helpful channel..
Even if you do MAF/AFM delete, it should be plumbed into the intake piping, although it can technically be left open from a tuning standpoint, if it doesn't fully seal it would be a boost leak.
@@TheCarPassionChannel ok I understand,,, thanks ever so much for answering.. so amazing to be able to find this stuff out so easily,, a few years back before the internet (Maybe a bit more than a few), would be sooo much harder. And of course a big thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge 👍👍👍
I think I may actually go the interfooler route. I thought about it and its not like you'd get throttle response lag(don't think there is such a thing) like when you put too large of an intercooler on a small turbo, because there is no positive pressure to build in N/A engines. It would have already metered the air before it entered the intercooler to begin with so it won't run rich or lean due to it either. just a huge mess of extra piping for now lol. but then when I get my manifold's t3 mounting bracket holes drilled out to fit the studs I'm running on my turbo I can just drop in the manifold/turbo/downpipe combo and run the oil lines and vacuum lines because by then I should have my AEM WBo2 kit in, and my FApexi1 turbo timer(not running coolant lines to turbo). big question for now is you left the BOV off until actually boosted right? I would imagine without any control over it that it would just leak. thanks in advance brudda.
+John “Otter” Pulliam The BOV won't affect anything, it's controlled by vacuum, not boost. The spring should hold it closed in all situations while the car is n/a. If you're thinking about intercooling an n/a car here are some things to consider: -The weight of the intercooler + piping will likely negate any power gains -You can't get the air any colder than ambient air temp, so a cold air intake is just as effective but without the extra weight -Even if the air is cooled in some situations, the intercooler could still restrict the air vs. an open pipe -Intercooler will block airflow to the radiator and affect water cooling
+TheCarPassionChannel haha not just installing FMIC & piping on an NA for Street cred, I'm just trying to as much of the turbos supporting parts installed as safely as possible before putting her down to do the main install I.E. Turbo Manifold/T25 Turbo/Drill oil pan for return port&run lines/Weld custom downpipe. That way the car isn't down for very long at all. I just need to get my t25's hotside and waste gate hole ported and my manifold's runner entrances and collectors discharge section needs to be cleaned up since the piping wasn't shaved enough and while im in there check for sloppy welds & repair as necessary. Then gasket matched(drill and dremel) to take advantage of the extra flow each port could have since they decided to leave the steel flange just hanging out there balla blocking my exhaust flow. j/K but seriously. I just wanted to know if it would affect driveability of the car by running the intercooler and piping with no turbo for a maybe a two week period of time really. I highly doubt any of the things I need will take longer than that to prepare.
I have a couple of questions. I have a Megasquirt, will I need the ISCV port connected to the piping or will it not make a difference? Another question is, if I'm running something like 7 psi at most, will the breather on the valve cover suffice. Also, will my stock injectors be enough for 7 psi. (It can according to the interwebz but I'd like your view on this) Lastly, if I want, how can I lower the boost on the stock wastegate, which is probably 7 psi? I'd like to start with about 4-5 psi and then work my way up to higher boost. That way I won't have to upgrade my clutch right away. I'm pretty close and I'm starting to get excited :)
+JaguarJay I like the ISCV to be connected to the piping for one reason: if the ISCV leaks backwards, that's a boost leak if it's open, but not if it's hooked up to the IC piping. Yes a breather should be fine on the valve cover, although a catch can or routing like in this video would be better. If you have enough fuel pressure, you can run that much boost with the stock injectors. If you don't have any way of raising fuel pressure, you're just tuning with MS, you just really need to watch the AFR's to see when you start running out of fuel. You spent $800 on MS but you're too cheap to buy a $170 set of RX8 injectors? It's worth the upgrade. The only way to lower the boost is to either change the wategate actuator to one with a softer spring, or if it has an adjustable rod you can prop the flapper open slightly but say bye bye to all your spool up. If you have a 7psi spring and you want less, you can just use less throttle and the boost won't go as high.
+TheCarPassionChannel Thanks for all the info! The bad part is the injectors are pretty hard to come by here so that's why I want to try to use the stock ones. And about the wastegate, that's what I had heard so it'll look like I'm going to need a new wastegate as well :P
+TheCarPassionChannel Again I want to thank you for replying this quickly. I know it's a lot of work to (try to) reply to everything everyone says and/or asks and I just want to say I really, really appreciate it. You're pretty much one of the reasons I'm going turbo and you've been of great value helping me along the way. Keep up the awesome work!
Awesome stuff, and a great video! LOL rudnik pipe. So on my turbo build (your fault) I'm doing air to water intercooling for air to air money. I also did some calculations and I'm betting you need an 8:1 fmu disc. I will do a video about the calculations and results. You are also going to need a 190 Lph high pressure pump, not a 255 Lph. My video will explain why. Keep up the good work!
hi mate quick question, im gona be using me221 ecu so will i need to block the idle control valve off or will i still need to hook it up somewhere? thanks bro!
Hey Greg if you are running the IAT sensor that you get with mega squirt (like you had in your mega squirt install) would you still need to run your idle speed control valve? If not what would you do to get around your idle speed control valve? How would you remove it and block off the old flange so you don't boost leak?
You should still run the IACV hooked up to the IC piping, or just delete it altogether. But if you're running power steering or a/c you should definitely keep it.
you shouldnt use that ebay air filter, those things in the middle of them tend to break off and get sucked into the turbo, that of course breaks the turbo.
+TheCarPassionChannel Hey I just want to thank you so much, you inspired me to get into Miatas. I just bought my first car, it's a 1994 Miata M Edition with only 60k miles. Keep up the good vids, cuz I'm here for the long run!
Planning on using your guides to boost my 2001 nb2 Miata. Are there any tips you could possibly give me that would help relate these videos to the 1.8 vvt platform? I'm understanding pretty much everything, but I'm no professional and am sure I am missing something. Very much appreciated.
The only thing I really advise people to do, is to go Megasquirt in the beginning. Or at least do tons of research other than my videos to make a good decision about it. It's expensive, but it's going to make a more powerful, safer, more reliable car.
Hey, I've learned a lot from this channel in these past couple of weeks and only have 2 questions that have me stranded in this journey, I want to run an external waste gate setup but don't know 100% as to where to tap for the lines. would it be the same as your internal waste gate situation?
so if your running megasquirt should you still hook up your idle speed control valve? also wouls it be ok to run a breather filter when pushing no more than 11 psi?
+AmanYoskii You should hook it up to the intercooler pipe in case the valve leaks backwards in boost. A breather on the valve cover? That's how I've run mine, it's not the best way but a lot of people do it like that.
+James Armijo It's all stock. The stock 1.6 A/C and P/S use v-belts, and the alternator uses a V-belt. In order to switch you'd have to swap the crank pulley, water pump pulley, and alternator pulley to 1.8 versions. (That's what I've done on my other car.)
Hey Greg. Really sick and informal videos. But I don't think people give you enough credit on shooting and editing the videos themselves. I know how stressful it can be moving the cam around frequently and doing multiple cuts when editing. So awesome job
+Leoven Live You know it man, every job takes at least three times as long when I'm filming because I want to make sure everything comes out good and makes sense, and everyone can see what I'm doing. Checking the focus and white balance on every shot, etc. It's more work than most people probably think.
ThatdudeinBlue did I video about is 240 recently and he talked about that ebay air filter, the shiny metal piece in the middle tend to break off and get sucked into the turbo, that of course breaks the turbo.
hey man i havent finished the vid yet but ive heard bad things about that filter on boosted setups. they say that inner filter piece will actually get sucked in id look it up but either great vids and you earned a sub!
+griffin palmer Yeah this video was perfect timing, TDIB talked about the filter piece getting eaten by turbos the same day I uploaded this so I got dozens of people telling me about it, lol. Thanks! I'll be replacing it at some point.
cant wait to see how this thing does. whats up with mt.net? i got perma baned after asking a simple question and flamed.. even the mods were flaming me... idk what to think about that community but the flaming you got for the t2/3 adapter is a good example.. keep up the great work.... if your afr doesnt work out could you use piggyback like powercard? thats what i have on my s/c 1.8 and works great
For the 1.6's aren't the AFM's just basically an on and off switch for the fuel pump, so no air flow = off and any air flow = on? If that's the case could you just have an override switch to the pump and run it manually?
Striball The pump always runs at the same speed, the fuel pressure regulator maintains a constant pressure in the rail. The AFM gives the ECU a signal to control the injectors from based on airflow and air temperature.
+TheCarPassionChannel so I have no idea what I am talking about, and didnt really think about it until I saw dbk21's comment, but could you explain how it is metered air?
as air flows past the sensor (Maf) it then calculates and relays information to the PCM/ECM and it then adjusts fuel to match. The MAF can be a hot wire or hot film and is heated with a voltage from the commanding module and kept at a certain temp 1000+ degrees Fahrenheit , and as air cools off the wire/film in the MAF the commanding module has to send more voltage to keep the sensor at temp, and the commanding module then interprets the data as air coming in the intake.More air=more voltage to keep the wire/film at temp. To answer the question, un-metered air is any air coming into the engine (even if its exerted from the engine) coming in after the maf. It wouldnt be substantial because its just relief pressure but it's still unmetered because it isnt picked up by the maf.
dbk21 patrick valentine Exactly. Short version: the air that goes through an AFM or MAF has already been "counted" by the ECU. If it somehow escapes and never makes it to the engine (Like though a blow off valve) the ECU still injects the fuel for that lost air, and the engine runs rich for a moment. Same with a vacuum leak, if air is coming into the engine that the MAF/AFM never sawm the ECU doesn't know about it and it won't inject any extra fuel for that air, causing it to run lean. (Closed loop mode can compensate for this to a degree but that';s a separate topic).
+dbk21 To respond to your original comment, the air that's coming in "after" the AFM, it's coming from the intake manifold while the PCV is open so it's not un-metered (it's already been seen by the AFM). Air coming in because of blow pressure by is technically un-metered but should not be of any significance compared to the volume being moved in that situation.
Do you know how rudnick runs the rudnick pipe? Doesnt he need the o2 sensor for idle and tuning? or does it not matter that much? At 8:40 , didn't know you were engineering explained LOL!
+Classified Recon As I said in the video, it's only a temporary solution so I can drive the car to the exhaust shop to have a downpipe made and then install the sensor.
No running clip with the Rudnik pipe? I am disappoint. Also, with only $14 of the budget remaining, will you be going over, or will the remainder of parts/services be the best deals in history?
+Yet Another Car Show Actually it's $14 over already, but I'm still keeping track. And check out my other channel for a potato video of The Rudnik Pipe!!!!
is there anyway you could make like a googlespread sheet that has everything you've bought so far and links where to find it? or is that just too much?
6:24 i read so much about PCV and breather ,, but still don't get it ,, i have an Europe focus mk2 1.6, i have a PCV under my intake and on the valve cover i have another hose that goes to the air filter i assumed its to pull air in , but when i remove the hose it actually blows air and oil fumes out , is this normal? and you say that the PCV opens in idle and cruise so you mean it closes at WOT? i thought at WOT there is more blow by that needs to get out !! can someone explain me ,, thank you
PCV closes at WOT on a turbo car, the boost forces it to close so intake manifold pressure cannot get into the valve cover. That's where the breather comes in. It will blow out air via blow by, but when hooked up to the intake (pre-turbo if the car is boosted) the intake will create a vacuum during times of high airflow and help "extract" the blow by pressure from the valve cover.
shouldn't the unmetered air entering the system be negligable as long as you cap off the air intake hole and have a working pcv? vent seems cleaner IMO and if you ever did have positive crankcase pressure it could vent through the crank filter. It sucks that you lost a cam seal; is you pcv functioning properly? ... it should close under boost wikipedia: The valve is simple, but actually performs a complicated control function. An internal restrictor (generally a cone or ball) is held in "normal" (engine off, zero vacuum) position with a light spring, exposing the full size of the PCV opening to the intake manifold. With the engine running, the tapered end of the cone is drawn towards the opening in the PCV valve by manifold vacuum, restricting the opening proportionate to the level of engine vacuum vs. spring tension. At idle, the intake manifold vacuum is near maximum. It is at this time the least amount of blow by is actually occurring, so the PCV valve provides the largest amount of (but not complete) restriction. As engine load increases, vacuum on the valve decreases proportionally and blow by increases proportionally. With a lower level of vacuum, the spring returns the cone to the "open" position to allow more air flow. At full throttle, vacuum is much reduced, down to between 1.5 and 3" Hg. At this point the PCV valve is nearly useless, and most combustion gases escape via the "breather tube" where they are then drawn in to the engine's intake manifold anyway. Should the intake manifold's pressure be higher than that of the crankcase (which can happen in a turbocharged engine, or under certain conditions, such as an intake backfire), the PCV valve closes to prevent reversal of the exhausted air back into the crankcase again. Also, another proposed advantage of the breather tube..... under wide open throttle wouldn't it be better to get clean/cold air from the intake rather than letting that hot nasty crankcase air come through? at manifold vacuum, the pcv only allows a low flow rate to minimize the unmetered air.... it opens up more while cruising since more air won't make much of a difference to the afr, then at wide open throttle air/pressure will go the other way to the breather
Don't you need the factory o2 sensor for the car to run??? How are you going to drive it to the exhaust shop with just the rudnik pipe and no feedback for the ECU to know how rich/lean it's running?
+ericbarasch123 I already drove it there. The car just runs in open loop the whole time, typically stays rich. I'll throw the video link in the description of the first drive, haha
+ericbarasch123 As far as I know the ECU just runs permanently rich when the O2 sensor is absent. Isn't that what's being done by the switch that he DIY'd up? When the intake manifold/intercooler piping sees boost it'll cut the O2 sensor signal and by doing that it'll go into some sort of error open loop which dumps as much fuel in the engine as possible.
yes..i hvae seen this...not on miata..but i have a friend that has a 95 is300 turbo he did this set up....and it works .okay ama give a tryout and let yoi know how it when
It idles good, sometimes just a little lean, but no stalling. I'm still working on it. Double check all your piping, make sure there are no leaks anywhere.
The ECU doesn't adjust the fuel pump, it adjusts the injector duty cycle. There is a possible variance there but there's no room to put it anywhere on that side really, 99.999% of people run it just like I do. The intercooler also helps keep the air coming into the engine close to the air temp of the engine bay. (Running MS now so I can monitor IAT's)
+boosted 2j On my other car where I just have a breather, I've never seen any oil in it. Just oil vapor. The valve cover has a fairly intricate baffle system to prevent oil from coming out.
+TheCarPassionChannel I also have a breather on my boosted 1.6 but only because I found some oil in the piping and thought the turbo was scavenging oil from the valve cover. I've got the same Garrett gt2554 on mine as well but am having some idling issues, it jumps around 850-2k:-) going to try and reroute the valve cover breather back into the piping today!
+TheEpicCoww That I'm not sure about. But here's the thing, sometimes the pressure in the IC piping can be higher than inside of the intake manifold, which is why I want the IC piping pressure to control the turbo. At higher boost levels, lets say you have 15psi in the manifold at part throttle, you might have 19psi in the IC piping (the throttle plate is restricting the flow into the manifold because you're only at part throttle) and that might overspin the turbo. It's more of a theory, but I do know hooking it up to the IC piping works just fine!
This is a good question. The short answer is yes they can see vacuum, but they are mostly spring and piston/diaphragm design which actuate in one axis under pressure. Boost pressure applies a force over the diaphragm/piston area whereas vacuum is simply applying less force but never a "negative" force. Even if you removed all molecules from the diaphragm side and pushed all the boosted air your engine could gulp, the waste gate won't actuate because it can only move in one axis. So there is no reasonable way to actuate a waste gate under vacuum, except to jam or wire it open. That means less boost and turbo kittens die.
NickelNDiminIt I think it would work fine still because there is no vacuum when the engine is in boost, and that's the only time the wastegate needs to be controlled?
+TheCarPassionChannel Yes the waste gate still works under vacuum but doesn't react to vacuum vs ambient pressure. That why at idle and up to ~3k rpm the waste gate just sits there and gets warm. So all the time not boosting, the waste gate sees vacuum but does noting about it. Vacuum only acts to keep it closed "more", if that makes sense.
NickelNDiminIt Right, which makes no difference in performance at all since the spring already holds it closed. I'm just wondering if there's any adverse effects to the diaphragm if it sees high vaccum.
+Dr Chemli Where are you finding a remapped stock ECU? And only if there's some alternate way the ECU knows how much air is coming into the engine, like a MAP sensor.
+Joshua Rivera I'm fairly certain that all hardtop compatible bars will work with a soft top, but that's not true in reverse because most softtop bars are taller. (Mine is a Hard Dog hardtop bar so it works with both.).
+TheCarPassionChannel well I was on the hard dog website and I was going to get a roll bar that fit a hard top assuming what you just said was true, and then it asked if I wanted the double diagonal with it, and I said yes then it said that my roll bar would not be compatible with a soft top with a glass window, so why is that ?
+TheCarPassionChannel oh that makes sense, what do you recommend then ? I need a roll bar that works for both hard top and soft top with glass, I would like for it to already have a harness bar with it, and I like the look of double diagonals the best. Thank you for all the help !
Joshua Rivera The only one I can recommend from experience is anything from Hard Dog, excellent quality bars and customer service. I believe they still offer bars with and without the harness bar. Mine came without and I added the bolt-in version later.
I've watched 3 friends now turbo their miata because of your channel, keep it up !
+PlymParkOG Awesome! That's what I like to hear.
+TheCarPassionChannel idk what it is but you shoukd be a teacher or something... the amount of knowledge that you drop in a way people can pick up easily is phenominal!! keep up the great work! just the right amount of hummor too.. where has mrs car passion ben hidding? does she go to the track with you and stuff?
Dennis F. Haha she's usually hiding under her car with a Snap-On impact gun.
Greg, I was in this build for the budget. You've blown the budget completely out here. $14 over? You're dipping into my chic fil a money now...think I'm gonna have to unsub...
+hayden allen You better unsub now, I still have to pay for the downpipe.
What's that gonna cost? another $14? Now I can't pay rent. This is just getting ridiculous...
Great job broadcasting correct information on properly turboing on a budget!
This is great, you show us the videos that we want to see, Broke&Boosted and other miata stuff in general. KEEP IT UP!
The Rudnik Pipe, hahaha. That's awesome.
Rudnick would be proud
Good stuff man! I just did a video on making intercooler piping for my skyline! Very similar techniques :)
i am addicted to this series! great videos!
LOL the Rudnik pipe, I like it.
Came watched liked !
Same also nice car on your channel
Love the Rudnik Pipe!! I welded a flange on a flange and hacked up a OBX downpipe for my downpipe.. Haggard AF but it works!
Great video and description!!! I'm currently doing a turbo install in my GTA Trans Am. A lot of what you've shown here will help me...
if you delete the MAF and run AIT and MAP do you still need to run the breather hole to the intake pipe work ? as your no longer metering air flow in that part of the system ??
Do u plan on making a complete parts list and possibly links to all the parts? Cause it would be awesome if you did. Thanks for the awesome vids either way!
Tucker Connette no car person does that I think they hate it when people ask for links. It’s always like “google is your friend stop being lazy” It’s like damn sorry for asking. But he said a lot of the things he got off eBay
love the face on the turbo
I used a ford smog pump and ran it off a relay, that way I can add crankcase vacuum constantly (at wot when you need it) and none of the oil vapors go back into the intake (which will increase the potential for getting knock). Instead I just run it through a cheap catch can and then finally into a mountain dew bottle.
Use the cardone ones off rockauto, they're $160ish canadian (super cheap in usd) and I've had one running non stop on my car for roughly 20,000km now and no issues. I haven't driven it more than 2hrs without a break mind you so it might not be ideal for super long trips but it rips and it's cheap.
Hey greg can you do a video on coolant reroute install if you're going to do it on B&B?
+Musa Bashir I will be doing a reroute video, probably some time over the next month.
Im confused. You ran the waste gate hose to the intake side of the piping. What did you do with the port opening on the cold side of the turbo that line was originally running to?
thank you I really appreciate it and again great videos
I really enjoy this series
Chopped ✌️✌✌✌ haha. Great vid mate
dammit you make me want to buy a miata.
lol on the cooking with carpassion.
1.8 MAF is 3"
1.8 TB is between 2.5" and 2.75" (2.5" silicone coupler worked for me, with a 2.75" clamp)
nice video. but on the valve cover vacuum line you said you angled it to make a low pressure area to create vacuum. the act of the turbo sucking in air is already vacuum and should extract the air from the head without having to need an angled fitting.
"Rudnik Pipe" I love it
Hey Greg be careful with that cone filter, the center chrome piece has a tendency to get broken off and if that happens it will get sucked right into the turbine = no more broke and boosted. Just my 2 cents
Doesnt the air go into that valve cover breather? not out wards? so surely you would want it straight into the intake tube or even facing the other way to build up postive pressure to build up pressure and force air into the camover to be removed by the pcv which will aid crackcase ventilation?. 6.53
are you going to use a oil catch can? i recommend it. i was getting egr faults and found my egr was ubber crusty.. idk if that check valve on the pcv valve can hold out boost... my cam seals are weeping now and i think my vatozone pcv valve is to blame .. do u know how to check if ur crank case is seeing boost? also you havent mentioned ignition? what plugs you using ngk 6 or 7 hr? i thought 7 would be overkill on my 6psi but the cars running much bettter granted i went from a 5 hr plug
No catch can, and yeah the autozone PCV is junk. I may upgrade to a GTX valve. I'm not sure on timing yet, probably 6 degrees at first and I'll wait until dyno day to see if it can handle any more.
So my miata was burning oil during hard acceleration and I didn't know why. But I think I found my problem, @7:30 you put the nipple on the intake side while mine is on the charge pipe side. could that be causing my turbo to burn oil???
hmm i usually see just breather filters on the valve cover but your solution answered my question as in why
I noticed you were wearing some Emerica Westgates, nice choice, they skate awesome.
Haha the rudnik pipe is priceless
hey Greg....would you recommend installing the afm in between the intercooler piping and the compressor according to the air flow??you think that will help the compresor breath better??
+andres tamayo I supposed you could do that? I've never seen it. You'd have to adapt the AFM to your intercooler piping size, extend the harness, find a place to fit it, etc. It's going to be a restriction no matter where it is, so I don't see any reason to move it.
were would you hook up the breather of the valve cover if you no longer have afm could i just put a breather filter?
The little 3/4 inch looking coolant line off your thermostat looks super close to the pulley. Hope that doesn't cause problems... not that I follow you on snapchat or anything . Great videos Greg, your shifter rebuild video was so well done I showed it to my girlfriend and she did it all by herself. She is so proud and tells everyone. Have you replaced bushing on your other Miata?
+f2rder Hahaha. Very funny, where were you 2 days ago!!! No I haven't done it on that car, I have other things to fix first, like the passenger door not opening.
is the air intake just sitting there? or do you have some way to mount it?
yay new vid hopefully i can transfer some knowledge to my r33 here in aus
Hello! I have a miata (NB) 2000 I want to INSTALL A TURBO SYSTEM! BUT I CAN NOT FIND A SOLUTION TO INSTALL THE INTERCOOLER, SINCE I HAVE TO BREAK PART OF THE BODY, AS THE SPACE IS VERY SMALL, THERE WILL BE ANOTHER SOLUTION? THANK YOU
Quick question. I am currently turbocharging my 1990 mx-5 and I am going straight to Megasquirt PNP2. So far I have everything that I need already installed on the car except for the intercooler piping and the ems itself. I noticed that you mentioned we need to tap the Idle speed control valve into the intercooler piping if you are using the stock ecu. So, do I need to route that line into my intercooler piping if I do not plan on using the stock ecu? I have been looking for an answer but have not been able to find one. I don't want to tap the line into the piping if I don't have to. Thank you for your help.Josh
It's best to tap into the IC piping even if you're on a standalone ECU. You never know if the IACV might leak under boost; but if it's connected to the piping it won't matter!
Awesome, thanks for your input!
and if I'm running megasquirt I won't need the afm and I could just run a pod filter on the valve cover right??
waiitt where do i hook the valve cover breather too if i have a megasquirt and am not running a MAF there
Lovely Rudnick pipe LOL
Hey Greg I know this is an old video but it’s relevant to me right now and I could use some help. If I am running ms2 pnp do I have to connect my iac valve pipe anywhere? Or can I just put a small filter on that tube? And lastly. Can I leave that breather vent on the driver side of the head open to air or will it cause a boost leak through the vent on the passenger side when I am in boost? Thanks a ton, Ben.
Also damn. I commented on this vid 4 years ago. Time flies.
Umm, 0:26 "that footage ish right here" And it brings back to this video?
+LapLandSystem oops, I'll fix that
Hi, when using an aftermarket ecu such as ms or me221, would I still need to plumb in the idle control valve pipe into the inlet piping? Or does the new ecu somehow manage without? Thanks Greg, such a helpful channel..
Even if you do MAF/AFM delete, it should be plumbed into the intake piping, although it can technically be left open from a tuning standpoint, if it doesn't fully seal it would be a boost leak.
@@TheCarPassionChannel ok I understand,,, thanks ever so much for answering.. so amazing to be able to find this stuff out so easily,, a few years back before the internet (Maybe a bit more than a few), would be sooo much harder. And of course a big thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge 👍👍👍
So you can use 2.5 inch piping on the turbo side? Since you took the other fan out
Do you need the idle speed control hose connected to the piping once you have megasquirt installed?
WigglingWaffles It's recommend. If the ISCV leaks in boost, it will be a boost leak unless it's plumbed into the IC piping
I think I may actually go the interfooler route. I thought about it and its not like you'd get throttle response lag(don't think there is such a thing) like when you put too large of an intercooler on a small turbo, because there is no positive pressure to build in N/A engines. It would have already metered the air before it entered the intercooler to begin with so it won't run rich or lean due to it either. just a huge mess of extra piping for now lol. but then when I get my manifold's t3 mounting bracket holes drilled out to fit the studs I'm running on my turbo I can just drop in the manifold/turbo/downpipe combo and run the oil lines and vacuum lines because by then I should have my AEM WBo2 kit in, and my FApexi1 turbo timer(not running coolant lines to turbo). big question for now is you left the BOV off until actually boosted right? I would imagine without any control over it that it would just leak. thanks in advance brudda.
+John “Otter” Pulliam The BOV won't affect anything, it's controlled by vacuum, not boost. The spring should hold it closed in all situations while the car is n/a.
If you're thinking about intercooling an n/a car here are some things to consider:
-The weight of the intercooler + piping will likely negate any power gains
-You can't get the air any colder than ambient air temp, so a cold air intake is just as effective but without the extra weight
-Even if the air is cooled in some situations, the intercooler could still restrict the air vs. an open pipe
-Intercooler will block airflow to the radiator and affect water cooling
+TheCarPassionChannel haha not just installing FMIC & piping on an NA for Street cred, I'm just trying to as much of the turbos supporting parts installed as safely as possible before putting her down to do the main install I.E. Turbo Manifold/T25 Turbo/Drill oil pan for return port&run lines/Weld custom downpipe. That way the car isn't down for very long at all. I just need to get my t25's hotside and waste gate hole ported and my manifold's runner entrances and collectors discharge section needs to be cleaned up since the piping wasn't shaved enough and while im in there check for sloppy welds & repair as necessary. Then gasket matched(drill and dremel) to take advantage of the extra flow each port could have since they decided to leave the steel flange just hanging out there balla blocking my exhaust flow. j/K but seriously. I just wanted to know if it would affect driveability of the car by running the intercooler and piping with no turbo for a maybe a two week period of time really. I highly doubt any of the things I need will take longer than that to prepare.
What size hose and barb did you use for the wastegate?
I have a couple of questions. I have a Megasquirt, will I need the ISCV port connected to the piping or will it not make a difference? Another question is, if I'm running something like 7 psi at most, will the breather on the valve cover suffice. Also, will my stock injectors be enough for 7 psi. (It can according to the interwebz but I'd like your view on this) Lastly, if I want, how can I lower the boost on the stock wastegate, which is probably 7 psi? I'd like to start with about 4-5 psi and then work my way up to higher boost. That way I won't have to upgrade my clutch right away.
I'm pretty close and I'm starting to get excited :)
+JaguarJay I like the ISCV to be connected to the piping for one reason: if the ISCV leaks backwards, that's a boost leak if it's open, but not if it's hooked up to the IC piping. Yes a breather should be fine on the valve cover, although a catch can or routing like in this video would be better. If you have enough fuel pressure, you can run that much boost with the stock injectors. If you don't have any way of raising fuel pressure, you're just tuning with MS, you just really need to watch the AFR's to see when you start running out of fuel. You spent $800 on MS but you're too cheap to buy a $170 set of RX8 injectors? It's worth the upgrade. The only way to lower the boost is to either change the wategate actuator to one with a softer spring, or if it has an adjustable rod you can prop the flapper open slightly but say bye bye to all your spool up. If you have a 7psi spring and you want less, you can just use less throttle and the boost won't go as high.
+TheCarPassionChannel Thanks for all the info! The bad part is the injectors are pretty hard to come by here so that's why I want to try to use the stock ones. And about the wastegate, that's what I had heard so it'll look like I'm going to need a new wastegate as well :P
+TheCarPassionChannel Again I want to thank you for replying this quickly. I know it's a lot of work to (try to) reply to everything everyone says and/or asks and I just want to say I really, really appreciate it. You're pretty much one of the reasons I'm going turbo and you've been of great value helping me along the way. Keep up the awesome work!
JaguarJay No worries man! It's a pretty big undertaking to try to get back to everyone but I do the best I can.
Awesome stuff, and a great video! LOL rudnik pipe. So on my turbo build (your fault) I'm doing air to water intercooling for air to air money. I also did some calculations and I'm betting you need an 8:1 fmu disc. I will do a video about the calculations and results. You are also going to need a 190 Lph high pressure pump, not a 255 Lph. My video will explain why. Keep up the good work!
I have a question. How would you hook up a catch can with that setup?
you should get a different pod filter. That little piece in the middle is gonna come loose and eat up your turbo
hi mate quick question, im gona be using me221 ecu so will i need to block the idle control valve off or will i still need to hook it up somewhere? thanks bro!
me221, just like MS2, should be able to run the stock ISCV.
Do I need to tap idle speed control valve into IC piping if I have a megasquirt?
@TheCarPassionChannel
Hey Greg if you are running the IAT sensor that you get with mega squirt (like you had in your mega squirt install) would you still need to run your idle speed control valve? If not what would you do to get around your idle speed control valve? How would you remove it and block off the old flange so you don't boost leak?
You should still run the IACV hooked up to the IC piping, or just delete it altogether. But if you're running power steering or a/c you should definitely keep it.
+TheCarPassionChannel ya I definitely do not have power steering. And ac... I'm from Canada who need ac. How would you end up blocking the plate off?
loved the chopped shirt m8
you shouldnt use that ebay air filter, those things in the middle of them tend to break off and get sucked into the turbo, that of course breaks the turbo.
The maf screen will catch it.
hey can you just tell me all the fittings and drill bits you used thank you very much great vids and keep up the good work
+TheCarPassionChannel Hey I just want to thank you so much, you inspired me to get into Miatas. I just bought my first car, it's a 1994 Miata M Edition with only 60k miles. Keep up the good vids, cuz I'm here for the long run!
+Ben Covington Congrats on the purchase!
What is the barb size for the valve cover breather hose?
Planning on using your guides to boost my 2001 nb2 Miata. Are there any tips you could possibly give me that would help relate these videos to the 1.8 vvt platform? I'm understanding pretty much everything, but I'm no professional and am sure I am missing something. Very much appreciated.
The only thing I really advise people to do, is to go Megasquirt in the beginning. Or at least do tons of research other than my videos to make a good decision about it. It's expensive, but it's going to make a more powerful, safer, more reliable car.
Hey, I've learned a lot from this channel in these past couple of weeks and only have 2 questions that have me stranded in this journey, I want to run an external waste gate setup but don't know 100% as to where to tap for the lines. would it be the same as your internal waste gate situation?
+Anthony Castillo You mean just the vacuum line? Yes. Intercooler piping, after the intercooler.
+TheCarPassionChannel could you possibly email me?
Anthony Castillo Shoot me one: thecarpassionchannel at gmail dot com
+TheCarPassionChannel sent!
hey Greg, can confirm 1.8 air mass is 70mm
so if your running megasquirt should you still hook up your idle speed control valve? also wouls it be ok to run a breather filter when pushing no more than 11 psi?
+AmanYoskii You should hook it up to the intercooler pipe in case the valve leaks backwards in boost. A breather on the valve cover? That's how I've run mine, it's not the best way but a lot of people do it like that.
+TheCarPassionChannel yea that's what i meant
when will this series be finished? I wanna boost my miata!
how much will this cost in total with tune?
great videos but how did u switch your v belts to serpentine belts please let me know
+James Armijo It's all stock. The stock 1.6 A/C and P/S use v-belts, and the alternator uses a V-belt. In order to switch you'd have to swap the crank pulley, water pump pulley, and alternator pulley to 1.8 versions. (That's what I've done on my other car.)
that air filter is a bad idea for a turbo. the center can fall out and hit the wheel
Hey Greg. Really sick and informal videos. But I don't think people give you enough credit on shooting and editing the videos themselves. I know how stressful it can be moving the cam around frequently and doing multiple cuts when editing. So awesome job
+Leoven Live You know it man, every job takes at least three times as long when I'm filming because I want to make sure everything comes out good and makes sense, and everyone can see what I'm doing. Checking the focus and white balance on every shot, etc. It's more work than most people probably think.
ThatdudeinBlue did I video about is 240 recently and he talked about that ebay air filter, the shiny metal piece in the middle tend to break off and get sucked into the turbo, that of course breaks the turbo.
+Brooks Goans Yes many people have made me aware of this, lol. I'll probably change that out.
Good deal, sir! I'd hate to see all this progress go to waste.
hey man i havent finished the vid yet but ive heard bad things about that filter on boosted setups. they say that inner filter piece will actually get sucked in id look it up but either great vids and you earned a sub!
+griffin palmer Yeah this video was perfect timing, TDIB talked about the filter piece getting eaten by turbos the same day I uploaded this so I got dozens of people telling me about it, lol. Thanks! I'll be replacing it at some point.
cant wait to see how this thing does. whats up with mt.net? i got perma baned after asking a simple question and flamed.. even the mods were flaming me... idk what to think about that community but the flaming you got for the t2/3 adapter is a good example.. keep up the great work.... if your afr doesnt work out could you use piggyback like powercard? thats what i have on my s/c 1.8 and works great
For the 1.6's aren't the AFM's just basically an on and off switch for the fuel pump, so no air flow = off and any air flow = on?
If that's the case could you just have an override switch to the pump and run it manually?
+Striball The AFM is far from a fuel pump switch, if that were true why wouldn't it just be on the ignition tumbler?
+TheCarPassionChannel Oh very true, I guess it acts on variable pressure for the fuel pump or something
Striball The pump always runs at the same speed, the fuel pressure regulator maintains a constant pressure in the rail. The AFM gives the ECU a signal to control the injectors from based on airflow and air temperature.
How would it be going from turbo on stock ecu to turbo on mega squirt would there be much needing changed except the injectors
Yes you will need to tune the ECU, it won't tune itself. There are several advantages of upgrading.
Will there still be a vacuum leak running a breather filter when running Megasquirt?? If so what would the consequences be?
+ian rasch No, because MS operates on manifold pressure, not measured amount of air.
The breather connected after the maf is still un-metered air
+dbk21 How so?
+TheCarPassionChannel so I have no idea what I am talking about, and didnt really think about it until I saw dbk21's comment, but could you explain how it is metered air?
as air flows past the sensor (Maf) it then calculates and relays information to the PCM/ECM and it then adjusts fuel to match. The MAF can be a hot wire or hot film and is heated with a voltage from the commanding module and kept at a certain temp 1000+ degrees Fahrenheit , and as air cools off the wire/film in the MAF the commanding module has to send more voltage to keep the sensor at temp, and the commanding module then interprets the data as air coming in the intake.More air=more voltage to keep the wire/film at temp. To answer the question, un-metered air is any air coming into the engine (even if its exerted from the engine) coming in after the maf. It wouldnt be substantial because its just relief pressure but it's still unmetered because it isnt picked up by the maf.
dbk21 patrick valentine Exactly. Short version: the air that goes through an AFM or MAF has already been "counted" by the ECU. If it somehow escapes and never makes it to the engine (Like though a blow off valve) the ECU still injects the fuel for that lost air, and the engine runs rich for a moment. Same with a vacuum leak, if air is coming into the engine that the MAF/AFM never sawm the ECU doesn't know about it and it won't inject any extra fuel for that air, causing it to run lean. (Closed loop mode can compensate for this to a degree but that';s a separate topic).
+dbk21 To respond to your original comment, the air that's coming in "after" the AFM, it's coming from the intake manifold while the PCV is open so it's not un-metered (it's already been seen by the AFM). Air coming in because of blow pressure by is technically un-metered but should not be of any significance compared to the volume being moved in that situation.
Do you know how rudnick runs the rudnick pipe? Doesnt he need the o2 sensor for idle and tuning? or does it not matter that much? At 8:40 , didn't know you were engineering explained LOL!
+Classified Recon As I said in the video, it's only a temporary solution so I can drive the car to the exhaust shop to have a downpipe made and then install the sensor.
rudnick has an o2 sensor on his dump pipe
Jesus Juice Official oh, ok thanks!
with standalone, you can run breather on valve cover because of speed density right?
Yep.
No running clip with the Rudnik pipe? I am disappoint. Also, with only $14 of the budget remaining, will you be going over, or will the remainder of parts/services be the best deals in history?
+Yet Another Car Show Actually it's $14 over already, but I'm still keeping track. And check out my other channel for a potato video of The Rudnik Pipe!!!!
Cool, love the hater pipe
Which BOV are you using?
is there anyway you could make like a googlespread sheet that has everything you've bought so far and links where to find it? or is that just too much?
+pleb Yeah I may do something like that after the end of the project.
great, thanks. I'm really wanting to basically copy what you're doing with broke&boosted.
6:24 i read so much about PCV and breather ,, but still don't get it ,, i have an Europe focus mk2 1.6, i have a PCV under my intake and on the valve cover i have another hose that goes to the air filter i assumed its to pull air in , but when i remove the hose it actually blows air and oil fumes out , is this normal? and you say that the PCV opens in idle and cruise so you mean it closes at WOT? i thought at WOT there is more blow by that needs to get out !! can someone explain me ,, thank you
PCV closes at WOT on a turbo car, the boost forces it to close so intake manifold pressure cannot get into the valve cover. That's where the breather comes in. It will blow out air via blow by, but when hooked up to the intake (pre-turbo if the car is boosted) the intake will create a vacuum during times of high airflow and help "extract" the blow by pressure from the valve cover.
@@TheCarPassionChannel how about connecting the pcv pre-turbo ,, is that a good idea?
@@RabeaHussain No - the PCV valve needs manifold vacuum to work correctly
shouldn't the unmetered air entering the system be negligable as long as you cap off the air intake hole and have a working pcv?
vent seems cleaner IMO and if you ever did have positive crankcase pressure it could vent through the crank filter.
It sucks that you lost a cam seal; is you pcv functioning properly? ... it should close under boost
wikipedia:
The valve is simple, but actually performs a complicated control function. An internal restrictor (generally a cone or ball) is held in "normal" (engine off, zero vacuum) position with a light spring, exposing the full size of the PCV opening to the intake manifold. With the engine running, the tapered end of the cone is drawn towards the opening in the PCV valve by manifold vacuum, restricting the opening proportionate to the level of engine vacuum vs. spring tension. At idle, the intake manifold vacuum is near maximum. It is at this time the least amount of blow by is actually occurring, so the PCV valve provides the largest amount of (but not complete) restriction. As engine load increases, vacuum on the valve decreases proportionally and blow by increases proportionally. With a lower level of vacuum, the spring returns the cone to the "open" position to allow more air flow. At full throttle, vacuum is much reduced, down to between 1.5 and 3" Hg. At this point the PCV valve is nearly useless, and most combustion gases escape via the "breather tube" where they are then drawn in to the engine's intake manifold anyway.
Should the intake manifold's pressure be higher than that of the crankcase (which can happen in a turbocharged engine, or under certain conditions, such as an intake backfire), the PCV valve closes to prevent reversal of the exhausted air back into the crankcase again.
Also, another proposed advantage of the breather tube..... under wide open throttle wouldn't it be better to get clean/cold air from the intake rather than letting that hot nasty crankcase air come through?
at manifold vacuum, the pcv only allows a low flow rate to minimize the unmetered air.... it opens up more while cruising since more air won't make much of a difference to the afr, then at wide open throttle air/pressure will go the other way to the breather
Don't you need the factory o2 sensor for the car to run??? How are you going to drive it to the exhaust shop with just the rudnik pipe and no feedback for the ECU to know how rich/lean it's running?
+ericbarasch123 I already drove it there. The car just runs in open loop the whole time, typically stays rich. I'll throw the video link in the description of the first drive, haha
+ericbarasch123 As far as I know the ECU just runs permanently rich when the O2 sensor is absent. Isn't that what's being done by the switch that he DIY'd up? When the intake manifold/intercooler piping sees boost it'll cut the O2 sensor signal and by doing that it'll go into some sort of error open loop which dumps as much fuel in the engine as possible.
+JaguarJay Oh wow he replied already xD
Where do you get all your fittings?
Ebay and Amazon pretty much
yes..i hvae seen this...not on miata..but i have a friend that has a 95 is300 turbo he did this set up....and it works .okay ama give a tryout and let yoi know how it when
where do you get those npt fittings and the thread maker tool ??
+Luis Nunez All ordered online or bought at Home Depot / Autozone
+TheCarPassionChannel sweet thanks for the info man
I tried this for the idle and the car dies out when I startup. How does yours idle?
It idles good, sometimes just a little lean, but no stalling. I'm still working on it. Double check all your piping, make sure there are no leaks anywhere.
Would this turbo setup work on a 1998-2004 1.6l miata? Or would it be diffrent setup due to a different layout in the engines?
A very similar setup can be done. I do like the fender-routing more if you're keeping A/C + P/S though.
+TheCarPassionChannel Thanks peter. Would the whole turbo setup be the same other than piping?
Mohammed Al-Shaqeil There are some differences but the concept is the same, yes.
+TheCarPassionChannel if the afm is before the turbo, the ecu don't know what is the air intake temp. so the ecu can't ajuste the fuel for the temp
The ECU doesn't adjust the fuel pump, it adjusts the injector duty cycle. There is a possible variance there but there's no room to put it anywhere on that side really, 99.999% of people run it just like I do. The intercooler also helps keep the air coming into the engine close to the air temp of the engine bay. (Running MS now so I can monitor IAT's)
ok thanks
I want to see this car running, to see the AFR measurement??
Doesnt oil come put the port on the valve cover ?
+boosted 2j On my other car where I just have a breather, I've never seen any oil in it. Just oil vapor. The valve cover has a fairly intricate baffle system to prevent oil from coming out.
hmmm interesting
+TheCarPassionChannel I also have a breather on my boosted 1.6 but only because I found some oil in the piping and thought the turbo was scavenging oil from the valve cover. I've got the same Garrett gt2554 on mine as well but am having some idling issues, it jumps around 850-2k:-) going to try and reroute the valve cover breather back into the piping today!
How come on your other miata it doesn't appear that you have the air flow meter just piping with a filter whats the difference?and why is this
Jacob Place Other car is running Megasquirt, there is no need for the AFM anymore.
thank you, these videos are awesome only makes me wanna buy a Miata more than i did before ahah
Helpful video
it's so beautiful :')
good job on telling us to put the wastegate line after the intercooler.
i do wonder, can wastegate actuators see vacuum?
+TheEpicCoww That I'm not sure about. But here's the thing, sometimes the pressure in the IC piping can be higher than inside of the intake manifold, which is why I want the IC piping pressure to control the turbo. At higher boost levels, lets say you have 15psi in the manifold at part throttle, you might have 19psi in the IC piping (the throttle plate is restricting the flow into the manifold because you're only at part throttle) and that might overspin the turbo. It's more of a theory, but I do know hooking it up to the IC piping works just fine!
This is a good question. The short answer is yes they can see vacuum, but they are mostly spring and piston/diaphragm design which actuate in one axis under pressure. Boost pressure applies a force over the diaphragm/piston area whereas vacuum is simply applying less force but never a "negative" force. Even if you removed all molecules from the diaphragm side and pushed all the boosted air your engine could gulp, the waste gate won't actuate because it can only move in one axis. So there is no reasonable way to actuate a waste gate under vacuum, except to jam or wire it open. That means less boost and turbo kittens die.
NickelNDiminIt I think it would work fine still because there is no vacuum when the engine is in boost, and that's the only time the wastegate needs to be controlled?
+TheCarPassionChannel Yes the waste gate still works under vacuum but doesn't react to vacuum vs ambient pressure. That why at idle and up to ~3k rpm the waste gate just sits there and gets warm. So all the time not boosting, the waste gate sees vacuum but does noting about it. Vacuum only acts to keep it closed "more", if that makes sense.
NickelNDiminIt Right, which makes no difference in performance at all since the spring already holds it closed. I'm just wondering if there's any adverse effects to the diaphragm if it sees high vaccum.
Do you need a maf sensor if running stock remapped ecu ?
+Dr Chemli Where are you finding a remapped stock ECU? And only if there's some alternate way the ECU knows how much air is coming into the engine, like a MAP sensor.
+TheCarPassionChannel its for my turbo 36 project
someone please link me to find that 3/8npt to 3/4 barb
Is your roll bar both hard top and soft top capable ? Or is it hard top only
+Joshua Rivera I'm fairly certain that all hardtop compatible bars will work with a soft top, but that's not true in reverse because most softtop bars are taller. (Mine is a Hard Dog hardtop bar so it works with both.).
+TheCarPassionChannel well I was on the hard dog website and I was going to get a roll bar that fit a hard top assuming what you just said was true, and then it asked if I wanted the double diagonal with it, and I said yes then it said that my roll bar would not be compatible with a soft top with a glass window, so why is that ?
Joshua Rivera Because there's not room for the glass window to fold down probably.
+TheCarPassionChannel oh that makes sense, what do you recommend then ? I need a roll bar that works for both hard top and soft top with glass, I would like for it to already have a harness bar with it, and I like the look of double diagonals the best. Thank you for all the help !
Joshua Rivera The only one I can recommend from experience is anything from Hard Dog, excellent quality bars and customer service. I believe they still offer bars with and without the harness bar. Mine came without and I added the bolt-in version later.